Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower th-cam.com/users/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
Replaced the coil on my Briggs twin opposed today Also did the fuel filter. For the life of me it will crank but not fire off. Ran out of daylight so I’ll check for spark and fuel tomorrow. 1997 MTD yard machine 18.5 HP Twin .
A different video helped me to diagnose the problem and figure out the solution; bad coil. Your video helped to figure out the correct gap for my coil. Thank you very much for posting this.
I've seen many engines where the magnet sits ever so slightly more proud or recessed so in my opinion I adjust the gap at the magnet with either a feeler gauge, piece of milk jug, or thin card stock like a manilla folder or birthday card.
The easiest and most accurate way to set the air gap is to use the part of the box the new coil came in. It measures about .010" thickness. Place a strip of the box between the coil's laminations and magnet in the flywheel and allow the magnet to pull the laminations to it, then tighten the coil mounting screws.
Problem have a john deere pushmower and I've had it to john deere and they say they dont know what's wrong with it.......pushing it along one day and for no reason it quit.not gas....Its got new carb.not the problem.its got new points set to what I could find .010 .not the problem.its got new coil. .012 or the thickness of matchbook cover.not the problem.john deere wont fix it or replace it.any ideas from anyone would help.thsnks
I have a cub cadet 20 hp Briggs and Stratton. I don't have spark. I replaced the coil and the plugs. I set the gap over and over and over... still no spark. The magnet is clean and strong enough to grab my tools. I also removed the auto kill wire just in case it was shorted... but no help Any ideas
Flat gauge on rounded parts. Get a business card, unscrew your ignition coil, put the business card between the coil and flywheel, let it stick to the magnet. Tighten bolts and your good. Feelergauge is a bit overkill but some like it this way. The gap will always be bigger, unless you bend the gauge to the radius of the flywheel.
do not use a Business card as mowers gap range is between .06-.14 a BC is .10-.14 so dont use it unless you know what type of motor and gape it calls for.
I prefer checking the air gap with the coil directly over the magnets, not another part of the flywheel. Position the flywheel in line with the coil. Loosen the coil bolts and pull the coil away from the magnets. Place your feeler gauge between both arms of the coil and let the coil be drawn to the magnets through the feeler gauge. Then tighten down the coil bolts. Remove the feeler gauge and your clearance should be spot on.
Dont get too caught up on sanding the rust and expecting that to cure a spark issue.9 times out of 10,the points(if its an older engine)or rare but possibly the magnetron coil being the culprit.cleanliness IS IMPORTANT on POINTS, but magnetism is BARELY affected by rust. Note;when someone tells you they sanded the flywheel and now have spark,theres usually more to their story...,I.e.safety interlocks,dirty or oily points,etc. Just sayin....
I see a lot of coils and carbs discarded that were misdiagnosed.(especially B.andS.magnetrons).Too often,people will put on a new part instead of re-tracing all safety interlocks.Carbs can almost always be cleaned and rebuilt,(but that isnt cost-effective,especially if they plan to 'bump up'the part's price)...just sayin'...
It fires on compression - location of coil is on the bore, the crank will be shoved straight "down" when the magnet flies by the coil with the CORRECT air gap.
that want happen you prove that by moving gap out 2-3 times normal gap and it will still run------ magnetism out from perm mag prove this by holding a screw driver away from a mag . slowly go toward mag with tip of driver you can feel the mag pull at least 3/4 ins away
PEOPLE IN DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE WORLD HAVE THEIR OWN SLANG AND TERMINOLOGIES... I TRAVELED AS A MILITARY CONTRACTOR. EVER HEAR OF A HAND CONDOM? A PLASTIC OR LATEX GLOVE//// HEARD THAT ONE IN THE BACK WOODS OF SCOTLAND. I HEARD BAD COPS CALLED BLEEDIN DICKS IN SCOTLAND. I HEARD THEM CALL AN AIR CONDITIONER A BANJO FAN... DEPENDS WHERE Y'ALL LIVE AT DUDE....
Malik Martin Although living in UK, but born in another part of the world, I call it a spanner. And so do a lot of other people with similar backgrounds. So what? Being American, does not give one the right to dictate to the rest of the world what to call certain items & how to pronounce words. You can't even pronounce the word solder, but say 'soder', or herbs, 'erbs'. I can go on & on, but I think the point is clear.
Wrong. Must be set the both side coil in same time exactly in magnetic area an no in nomagnetic area. .012 in better all tha time. Clean the fly wheel before adjust gap. Any rust on fly and coil to have a good gap.
He shows his ignorance by using a metal feeler gauge to set air gap. That is a absolute NO NO. You can purchase brass, plastic, or paper that is non magnetic to do the job correctly. Most magneto, or coils usually come with the proper shim stock for your engines application. Just saying......
@@TIMEtoRIDE900 It is so simple. the majority of the metal on the flywheel is composed of a non-conductive metal. This is why when you spin the flywheel until you get to the metal that is embedded does not attract (pull) the coil to it. But I guess if you do not understand why you should never use a conductive metal that also would be attracted to the magnetic properties in the coil to perform this task then you will not get a true and proper gap. So this is why a non conductive gapping tool must be used, paper, plastic brass, anything that will not attract to the coil and also be the proper thickness per the manufacturers recommendations. That is why. But you seem to be a know it all or just plain argumentative so personally I really do not care if you use whatever you use. I will not try and explain further because I would be answering to a box of rocks. There you go.....................
@@petepeabody8905 basically YOU KICKED THE CHESS PIECES OVER, SHIT ON THE BOARD AND PROCLAIMED YOURSELF THE WINNER! Maybe you don't know there ARE cast iron flywheels, so your explanation of a "non-conductive flywheel" is in question. And still why WOULDN'T a 0.010 METAL feeler gauge give a "true and proper" gap ?? You don't have a REAL answer because you are wrong and don't know what's what.
I noticed the welch plug with the oil hole and the felt 'wick'that lubes the top of the shaft are missing!The starter clutch stands still all the time that the engine is running,so if it isnt replaced,it may gall to the shaft and not only squeal,but mangle the end of the recoil /spring.(Sand the shaft in a circular motion to remove rust or gall/discoloration.)Dont over oil it. I do 5 or 6 drops of light oil like 3 in 1 , but a.t.f. is also thin and durable.
You left out the part where you turned the flywheel to bring the magnets back to behind the coil again. Actually, it wasn't neccessary to move the magnets away in the first place. You can simply break the magnet force by pulling the coil away long enough to insert the feeler gauge.
+boxing 4 life In some cases the magnet is exstenuated and eccentricated that is esthetically the truth. The magnet may protrude more than the rest of the circum. of the armature wheel. That is why it is important to keep your owned user manuals... Good point boxy.... Some equip has eccentric or eccentricated parts. It's important to keep manuals make notes. I prefer the interior doors of my barns.
If so, Make darn sure your engine doesn't have any main bearing wear,(or just use a business card.Tried and tested by us old schoolers for 50 years,)It'll be O.K., and won't have the possibility of touching from thermal expansion or centrifugal distortion.
That was not the "max" setting. There is no max or min setting in his manual. The .010 setting is for engine model 220000 and .014 is for engine model 250000 which is the model he is working on. He specifically mentioned this in the video.
Hello everyone.Just a qurstion....does this air gap affects the 4-stroke cycle of the engine? Here's the thing...my engine(Briggs&Station 4-stroke)starts normally but cant keep working and eventually stops. Carburator has been cleaned,checked and working fine. Gasoline is replaced with fresh new. Spark plug checked...works fine. Any suggestions?
I just replaced the air filter, because it was filthy and when I checked my flywheel key it was slightly offset. And I have had to remove the plastic carb and clean it 3 times.
Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower th-cam.com/users/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
Replaced the coil on my Briggs twin opposed today
Also did the fuel filter.
For the life of me it will crank but not fire off.
Ran out of daylight so I’ll check for spark and fuel tomorrow.
1997 MTD yard machine 18.5 HP
Twin .
A different video helped me to diagnose the problem and figure out the solution; bad coil. Your video helped to figure out the correct gap for my coil. Thank you very much for posting this.
Use a business card or a credit/debit card. Simple and it works every time!
I used a credit card and the mower charge me.lol
I've seen many engines where the magnet sits ever so slightly more proud or recessed so in my opinion I adjust the gap at the magnet with either a feeler gauge, piece of milk jug, or thin card stock like a manilla folder or birthday card.
both gaps should be locked at one time feeler gauge in both push the coil in then lock your way you can end up with the wrong gap in one
I was thinking the same thing. The first side will shift a little when moving the second side.
So I understand that a slice of a plastic milk jug under each arm over the magnet is the hot ticket.
The easiest and most accurate way to set the air gap is to use the part of the box the new coil came in. It measures about .010" thickness. Place a strip of the box between the coil's laminations and magnet in the flywheel and allow the magnet to pull the laminations to it, then tighten the coil mounting screws.
Thanks
@@4069ish You're welcome.
Spark plug box does the same done hundreds that way sod faffing about with feeler gauges
worked for me and less fiddly
Don't forget to clean yur magnets on the flywheel and amateur ends of dirt and rust !
Jason Smith - What about the professional ends?!
Hey Trippa ,use a single hex socket ,not a open end spanner , so you don't round of the bolt head
I use a strip of the box the coil comes in ....and rather than an open end spanner use a 1/4 drive ratchet
Problem have a john deere pushmower and I've had it to john deere and they say they dont know what's wrong with it.......pushing it along one day and for no reason it quit.not gas....Its got new carb.not the problem.its got new points set to what I could find .010 .not the problem.its got new coil. .012 or the thickness of matchbook cover.not the problem.john deere wont fix it or replace it.any ideas from anyone would help.thsnks
Check cylinder compression.
Just did that today on mine! Lol. We have a exact same motor! :)
Thanks mate... wrong amount air gap is the problem .
Definitely set mine right up against the flywheel because my lawn mower wont shut off on its own now, whoops, change that tomorrow 😂😂😂😂😂
Use a standard business card to set the air gap.
@Leopold no its not. A business card is between 0.010 and 0.012 which are both acceptable.
I have a cub cadet 20 hp Briggs and Stratton. I don't have spark. I replaced the coil and the plugs. I set the gap over and over and over... still no spark. The magnet is clean and strong enough to grab my tools.
I also removed the auto kill wire just in case it was shorted... but no help Any ideas
Good camera set up and clarity,
Use a business card or a credit/debit card. Simple and it works every time!
Debit card is too thick - I use a business card. Simple, cheap, easy and you don't have to fight the magnet.
another thing 25 gap on the plugs .u can go lower but if u carbon on them go higher at 25 it will start easier and run cooler
Can you do it if the circular bit is rusty, or will the clearance be wrong?
Flat gauge on rounded parts.
Get a business card, unscrew your ignition coil, put the business card between the coil and flywheel, let it stick to the magnet. Tighten bolts and your good.
Feelergauge is a bit overkill but some like it this way. The gap will always be bigger, unless you bend the gauge to the radius of the flywheel.
do not use a Business card as mowers gap range is between .06-.14 a BC is .10-.14 so dont use it unless you know what type of motor and gape it calls for.
+Michael Kelsey Never failed me.
Leopold its spelled FEELER.Leopold.lol. I misspell all the time dude.Spell check doesn't help much either.lol
The bussiness card trick works everytime
Business Cards, Thin Screw Drivers, Thin Piece of Metals, hell I use my teeth if it's thin enough! USE WHATEVER WORKS!
i have set it by just looking ran fine --very forgiving adj.--
Wrong
wtf
A business card works perfect
WTF air gap ha ha.,..
Thank you! Great close ups, too :-)
Hi
I,kevE
Actually it's called a stater coil. 🙂
Back in my day we used to use a matchbook cover as a gauge.
thanks share this video
Thanks, I had slid the feeler gauge across both arms and magnet. I'll correct it tomorrow and hope it works.
I prefer checking the air gap with the coil directly over the magnets, not another part of the flywheel. Position the flywheel in line with the coil. Loosen the coil bolts and pull the coil away from the magnets. Place your feeler gauge between both arms of the coil and let the coil be drawn to the magnets through the feeler gauge. Then tighten down the coil bolts. Remove the feeler gauge and your clearance should be spot on.
is that in inches?
Dont get too caught up on sanding the rust and expecting that to cure a spark issue.9 times out of 10,the points(if its an older engine)or rare but possibly the magnetron coil being the culprit.cleanliness IS IMPORTANT on POINTS, but magnetism is BARELY affected by rust. Note;when someone tells you they sanded the flywheel and now have spark,theres usually more to their story...,I.e.safety interlocks,dirty or oily points,etc. Just sayin....
The way he is handing that wrench made me cringe ..
thanks
Thanks
I see a lot of coils and carbs discarded that were misdiagnosed.(especially B.andS.magnetrons).Too often,people will put on a new part instead of re-tracing all safety interlocks.Carbs can almost always be cleaned and rebuilt,(but that isnt cost-effective,especially if they plan to 'bump up'the part's price)...just sayin'...
Well helpful..thanks.
WOW, must be a OLD >>GOOD
That's because the whole block is made out of cast iron, not aluminum.
Why not set the air gap with a bussines card ? Saludos Bernardo
They rip.
One must assume the engine main bearings are not badly worn or that air gap will vary while trying to run properly.
It fires on compression - location of coil is on the bore, the crank will be shoved straight "down" when the magnet flies by the coil with the CORRECT air gap.
that want happen you prove that by moving gap out 2-3 times normal gap and it will still run------ magnetism out from perm mag prove this by holding a screw driver away from a mag . slowly go toward mag with tip of driver you can feel the mag pull at least 3/4 ins away
Don't these Limey's own a ratchet and sockets?
PEOPLE IN DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE WORLD HAVE THEIR OWN SLANG AND TERMINOLOGIES... I TRAVELED AS A MILITARY CONTRACTOR. EVER HEAR OF A HAND CONDOM? A PLASTIC OR LATEX GLOVE//// HEARD THAT ONE IN THE BACK WOODS OF SCOTLAND. I HEARD BAD COPS CALLED BLEEDIN DICKS IN SCOTLAND. I HEARD THEM CALL AN AIR CONDITIONER A BANJO FAN... DEPENDS WHERE Y'ALL LIVE AT DUDE....
Tim Yeakel
Malik Martin i call it an open ender or ring spanner! Makes me a stupid kiwi does it?
Malik Martin Although living in UK, but born in another part of the world, I call it a spanner. And so do a lot of other people with similar backgrounds. So what? Being American, does not give one the right to dictate to the rest of the world what to call certain items & how to pronounce words. You can't even pronounce the word solder, but say 'soder', or herbs, 'erbs'. I can go on & on, but I think the point is clear.
Wrong. Must be set the both side coil in same time exactly in magnetic area an no in nomagnetic area. .012 in better all tha time. Clean the fly wheel before adjust gap. Any rust on fly and coil to have a good gap.
Does this gap of the ignition coil effect the timing?
no it does not the timing is set at bout 20. on the points
Just the strength of the spark on the sparkplug. Too close or too far on the coil/flywheel gap results in a weaker spark.
@@DP-hy4vh so theres too close and too far away? sure about that? thought the closer it got the better spark but i dont understand ignition coils...
Thank you, just what I needed to know.
He shows his ignorance by using a metal feeler gauge to set air gap. That is a absolute NO NO. You can purchase brass, plastic, or paper that is non magnetic to do the job correctly. Most magneto, or coils usually come with the proper shim stock for your engines application. Just saying......
The flywheel magnet is permanently embedded in . . . . umm . . . . METAL !!
@@TIMEtoRIDE900 You need to use a non metallic feeler gauge such as plastic, brass, or even paper, but never a metal isa what I am saying
@@petepeabody8905 You still haven't EXPLAINED why it's "a NO NO"
What's wrong with using metal . . . .
@@TIMEtoRIDE900 It is so simple. the majority of the metal on the flywheel is composed of a non-conductive metal. This is why when you spin the flywheel until you get to the metal that is embedded does not attract (pull) the coil to it. But I guess if you do not understand why you should never use a conductive metal that also would be attracted to the magnetic properties in the coil to perform this task then you will not get a true and proper gap. So this is why a non conductive gapping tool must be used, paper, plastic brass, anything that will not attract to the coil and also be the proper thickness per the manufacturers recommendations. That is why. But you seem to be a know it all or just plain argumentative so personally I really do not care if you use whatever you use. I will not try and explain further because I would be answering to a box of rocks. There you go.....................
@@petepeabody8905 basically YOU KICKED THE CHESS PIECES OVER, SHIT ON THE BOARD AND PROCLAIMED YOURSELF THE WINNER!
Maybe you don't know there ARE cast iron flywheels, so your explanation of a "non-conductive flywheel" is in question.
And still why WOULDN'T a 0.010 METAL feeler gauge give a "true and proper" gap ?? You don't have a REAL answer because you are wrong and don't know what's what.
I noticed the welch plug with the oil hole and the felt 'wick'that lubes the top of the shaft are missing!The starter clutch stands still all the time that the engine is running,so if it isnt replaced,it may gall to the shaft and not only squeal,but mangle the end of the recoil /spring.(Sand the shaft in a circular motion to remove rust or gall/discoloration.)Dont over oil it. I do 5 or 6 drops of light oil like 3 in 1 , but a.t.f. is also thin and durable.
You left out the part where you turned the flywheel to bring the magnets back to behind the coil again. Actually, it wasn't neccessary to move the magnets away in the first place. You can simply break the magnet force by pulling the coil away long enough to insert the feeler gauge.
thats a good reason to cardboard box top
That sure looks alot closer than 10 to 14 thousandths!
@Leopold I think you forgot a zero in there for the printer paper. Mine measures 0.003"
LoL. HIs guage said .002.
Me use a piece of paper and its works...
This is 100% correct way to set the gap....very well done video.
I thought you had to tighten it up against the magnet on the fly wheel?
boxing 4 life You do, a bit of bad editing from me there.
boxing 4 life noooo don't do that lol
+boxing 4 life In some cases the magnet is exstenuated and eccentricated that is esthetically the truth. The magnet may protrude more than the rest of the circum. of the armature wheel. That is why it is important to keep your owned user manuals... Good point boxy.... Some equip has eccentric or eccentricated parts. It's important to keep manuals make notes. I prefer the interior doors of my barns.
+GardenMechanic hg
You have a good point it .It insures no 'crawling',and eliminates touching if engine has many hours and main brng. "play'.
just get it as close as you can without hitting the flywheel. end of story.
I will tell also helpful is a piece of paper. Two or three layers if flywheel is not perfect center on shaft.
Sheet of paper is good enough or even better.
If so, Make darn sure your engine doesn't have any main bearing wear,(or just use a business card.Tried and tested by us old schoolers for 50 years,)It'll be O.K., and won't have the possibility of touching from thermal expansion or
centrifugal distortion.
You should not use a steel feeler gauge to set air gap, use a brass one that comes with most automotive feeler gauge sets or any non magnetic gauge..
You set the gap to the maximum. Why not set it to the nominal .012? The specification was a gap of .010 to .014.
is 0.02 twice the amount of 0.010 ? -___-
That was not the "max" setting. There is no max or min setting in his manual. The .010 setting is for engine model 220000 and .014 is for engine model 250000 which is the model he is working on. He specifically mentioned this in the video.
Yep! Just what I did..set it to the nominal .012" Runs great!!
Hello everyone.Just a qurstion....does this air gap affects the 4-stroke cycle of the engine?
Here's the thing...my engine(Briggs&Station 4-stroke)starts normally but cant keep working and eventually stops.
Carburator has been cleaned,checked and working fine.
Gasoline is replaced with fresh new.
Spark plug checked...works fine.
Any suggestions?
Is gas cap vent open? How about bowl vent? Remember..,if air cant get in,gas cant flow.
I just replaced the air filter, because it was filthy and when I checked my flywheel key it was slightly offset. And I have had to remove the plastic carb and clean it 3 times.
@@johnwade5747 My Briggs and Stratton (Lawnboy) does not have a vented gas cap. There are some that don't.