Take a piece of regular writing paper, fold 3 times like a letter. Put it between the coil and the flywheel, spin the flywheel slowly till the magnets suck the coil against the paper on both sides. Tighten coil bolts. Spin flywheel slowly to get the paper out. Done!
Told me just what I needed to know. I have a 22HP B&S Twin V and just replaced both magnetos and set the gap way to wide. It's running like a champ now. Thanks
Thank you for sharing this, our big wheel mower hasn't had a spark, got to the mag and it was rubbing the fly wheel,set gap at .012 and she runs again👍
My mentor is dead now, and he along with the briggs manual always told me the coil sets on .010. I am a firm believer on that 0.10 setting. I have been doing this for around 20 years now
Thank you for sharing. I use a Business Card. I Checked the thickness of several Business Cards in my Wallet and they were .012 to .013". Perfect for me.
I normally use a piece of cardboard thin enough like a shoebox loosen the screws put a piece of cardboard between the ignition coil push the ignition coil back to the flywheel as far as it can go and tight the screws never too tight because you will break the ignition coil housing and if you have any washer make sure to replace them i learn this from my daddy he was very good at fixing lawnmower so i start to fix on them and other small engine's
IIRC, the Briggs training school said to use microfiche cardstock, since if you were a big enough dealer back in the day, you used microfiche to lookup machine info. Assuming a microfiche card is 5 mil thick, you would use 2 microfiche cards stacked for a .010" gap.
Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower th-cam.com/users/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
I came here for this. I’m working away from home and really don’t feel like purchasing yet another set of feeler gauges for this little project I’m toying with. Thank you. 😊
Small engines will drive you nuts. Been dialing in a 20hp briggs for a while now after replacing bent push rods. Set the lash to .005 for both cylinders. Idles fine but misses at full throttle. Set the coils to .010 after lightly removing the rust from the magnet and it now seems to run like a top. Ive been battling this engine for 6 months now with fuel lines & everything else Its 20 years old at least but never really had a tuneup. I work on cars for a living.
Heads up, this will not create a .012" gap unless you put the feeler gauge in at the side. Since the top is curved, you shouldn't be able to fit a .012" flat feeler in there at all. You will also need to go back and forth a few times tapping the coil tight against the feeler and gently torque the bolt more each pass. Only put the tip of the feeler in each time or you run the risk of widening the gap due to the curvature, even when entering at the sides.
What to do if you do not have a valve adjustment filler gauge ? stick a piece off paper on the coil where it needs to be adjusted , select paper thickness as close as you can to the required adjustment , stick the paper with grease onto the ignition coil , gently with minimum force push it toward the flywheel and snug the bolts , the minute engine rotates the paper will disintegrate , this is what I used to do with the crank position sensor on a Porsche 944 .
ive used regular writing paper..- fold it three times, and the gap will be .011,, to .013.... works every time, and eliminates the hassle of searching for cardboard that is near the right thickness. OR,, a piece off a cigarette carton.but ,who can afford a carton of smokes these days??. LOL !!!
I have been trying to find a video like this for a while. Is the gap the same for a Troy-Bilt TB110 .012 or .02? I called a repair store & was told the latter. I will try the business card/folded paper before getting a feeler gauge just for this repair. Thank you!
I have a 6.5 hp Briggs and Stratton troy built tiller that ot runs good on low but soon as you give it gas it spits and kicks and cuts of, I can keep it going by continually choking and unchoking but it has a new carb on it, so no blockages or anything, it's crazy, runs great half throttle or a hair less, no choke, clean run, give it gas and itsike it's being smothered and cuts off unless I choke, it come alive again let off choke and do that constantly until turn it back down and its idles fine, what are somethings I could check, and do you think it could be the coil or head gasket cause I've checked everything else, thanks hope to hear back soon,
You mentioned "Herb Shaver" . I also remember a man by that name , who used soup up and race VW beetles . Any chance we're talking avout the same guy , (North Carolina) ?
@@JeffsLittleEngineService I tore my Briggs and stratton push mower apart down to the block. Cause it would start and then die immediately. I cleaned and reinstalled everything , but I remember pushing the coil up to the flywheel until in touched it. The mower started up first pull.This was the first time I have ever tore apart a engine. Some guys at work told me to use a feeler gauge to reset it that if I didn't it could cause problems. What's your professional opinion?
hello!! i have a craftsman 6.5 brigs lawnmower do you know where i can find parts for it? did you see that tube going from the carb into the piston i need that mines cracked and i also need a new carb assembly
Search for your engine model at the B&S site: www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/manuals.html?icid=freshnav_a# . Look for the parts document; it has exploded diagrams of your engine, along with numbered parts reference. From there, you can find the part you need and then search for it online - many of them are available on Amazon.
Bad information Jeff. The spec is actually 6 to 10. (006-.010) thousandths according to briggs and stratton not "tweeeelve" I have seen the air gap spec on some of the larger displacement riding mower engines at 10 to 14 housandths so maybe that's where that came from.
@@rayburnett3253 So, i need to find the model number in order to know the correct gap? Right now i have been looking and can't find the engine model number. All i found was the family number.
Feeler gauges. AutoZone or somewhere similar. Pay attention to the range though. Some cheaper ones don't go real small and might skip a few sizes along the way.
I don’t know why the gap would be .012 for all engines.That doesn’t even make sense.Of course if you put a feeler gauge in the gap before taking the coil off should give you a pretty accurate reading of what it is supposed to be provided of course you take it off new.
Pretty crusty one, there. I clean them up if the gap measures to a good business card thickness. Some cards are thin, some are .012". If you can get the card to just , slide out , under tension, you're just right. Check the kill wire, it connects below and when you let go of the bail at the handle a ground takes spark from you. Switching to a "close enough" Magneto part for a test means you may need to clean yours. Connect the kill so it shuts off when you want. If you do things like that. Safety first.
you may find that a 6.5 wrench may fit, not as easy to get hold of as the full mm sizes but I managed to get one. Also the small hex drive tools are 1/4 inch so an extension for these would do the job. Female end on the bolt and a small adjustable on the male end.
@@JeffsLittleEngineService Naw. Turns out a bit of PB Blaster and a propane torch loosened it up just fine. A pair of vice grips did the rest. Took about 5 minutes.
THE WAY THAT WAS DONE WILL NOT YIELD AN ACCURATE DISTANCE, NEEDS TO BE SOMETHING THAT WILL CONFORM TO THE RADIUS, LIKE BRASS SHIM STOCK OR EVEN PRENMEASURED "PAPER ", ON NEWER MOTORS THE DISTANCE IS CLOSER TO 0.006", REGARDS
Go to 2:12 in the vid and you will see that he specifically provides the gap in inches and mm ( 0.012" or 0.3048 mm ) . Now apologize. Good catch Stephen Crouse. I edited my post.
Take a piece of regular writing paper, fold 3 times like a letter. Put it between the coil and the flywheel, spin the flywheel slowly till the magnets suck the coil against the paper on both sides. Tighten coil bolts. Spin flywheel slowly to get the paper out. Done!
Thanks!!!!
3:34
Told me just what I needed to know. I have a 22HP B&S Twin V and just replaced both magnetos and set the gap way to wide. It's running like a champ now. Thanks
Thank you for sharing this, our big wheel mower hasn't had a spark, got to the mag and it was rubbing the fly wheel,set gap at .012 and she runs again👍
My mentor is dead now, and he along with the briggs manual always told me the coil sets on .010. I am a firm believer on that 0.10 setting. I have been doing this for around 20 years now
not much difference really 😂
Thank you for sharing. I use a Business Card. I Checked the thickness of several Business Cards in my Wallet and they were .012 to .013". Perfect for me.
Great tip!
I normally use a piece of cardboard thin enough like a shoebox loosen the screws put a piece of cardboard between the ignition coil push the ignition coil back to the flywheel as far as it can go and tight the screws never too tight because you will break the ignition coil housing and if you have any washer make sure to replace them i learn this from my daddy he was very good at fixing lawnmower so i start to fix on them and other small engine's
Use to use match book covers for points in my 70 Chevy... Your reply is what I was looking for, I don't have a feeler gauge anymore.
IIRC, the Briggs training school said to use microfiche cardstock, since if you were a big enough dealer back in the day, you used microfiche to lookup machine info. Assuming a microfiche card is 5 mil thick, you would use 2 microfiche cards stacked for a .010" gap.
Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower th-cam.com/users/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
index card has worked for 50 years , quick and simple
I came here for this. I’m working away from home and really don’t feel like purchasing yet another set of feeler gauges for this little project I’m toying with. Thank you. 😊
I use a matchbook cover.
Nice vid bro, short and sweet and helped many people in the sht ! Cheers!
Glad it helped
@@JeffsLittleEngineService what is name of gaping measurement tool?
Rt on brother. That was simple and easy to understand. Thank you..
Glad it helped
Small engines will drive you nuts. Been dialing in a 20hp briggs for a while now after replacing bent push rods. Set the lash to .005 for both cylinders. Idles fine but misses at full throttle. Set the coils to .010 after lightly removing the rust from the magnet and it now seems to run like a top. Ive been battling this engine for 6 months now with fuel lines & everything else Its 20 years old at least but never really had a tuneup. I work on cars for a living.
Good work!
I found this nice reference for my gcv190LA. It actually says 8-24 thousandths. But I like the 12 idea. Just something to stick in your head.
12! (in an old man voice) It has worked for 20 years for me.
How much a "12" is in inches or millimetres?
@@JeffsLittleEngineService How much a "12" is in inches or millimetres?
I appreciate the Twelve story a lot.
thank you I will remeber Herb's advice forever
I dont appreciate the twelve story herb Because its actually 6 to 10 thousandths. (.006- .010) not "tweeeeeeve"
Just got mine firing did not know the gap.👍 THANKS
Be careful, older single cylinder motors need a gap 0.006 to 0.010". Setting at 0.012" can make the motor very hard to start due to a weakened spark.
You are right in the money. The old Quantums like my 6.5 are .006 to .010" in the manual.
Heads up, this will not create a .012" gap unless you put the feeler gauge in at the side. Since the top is curved, you shouldn't be able to fit a .012" flat feeler in there at all. You will also need to go back and forth a few times tapping the coil tight against the feeler and gently torque the bolt more each pass. Only put the tip of the feeler in each time or you run the risk of widening the gap due to the curvature, even when entering at the sides.
What to do if you do not have a valve adjustment filler gauge ?
stick a piece off paper on the coil where it needs to be adjusted , select paper thickness as close as you can to the required adjustment , stick the paper with grease onto the ignition coil , gently with minimum force push it toward the flywheel and snug the bolts , the minute engine rotates the paper will disintegrate , this is what I used to do with the crank position sensor on a Porsche 944 .
ive used regular writing paper..- fold it three times, and the gap will be .011,, to .013.... works every time, and eliminates the hassle of searching for cardboard that is near the right thickness.
OR,, a piece off a cigarette carton.but ,who can afford a carton of smokes these days??. LOL !!!
The torque for the ignition coil, according to Briggs & Stratton, is 30-lb-in.
thanks! that is not much for sure
FYI 0.012" should be three sheets of regular old paper. So fold an 8.5 x 11 in half, twice. Then tear one quarter off and bam, three sheets.
just use a proper measuring device and you will never have a problem or question your accuracy. But sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.....
I have been trying to find a video like this for a while. Is the gap the same for a Troy-Bilt TB110 .012 or .02? I called a repair store & was told the latter. I will try the business card/folded paper before getting a feeler gauge just for this repair. Thank you!
.012
I have a 6.5 hp Briggs and Stratton troy built tiller that ot runs good on low but soon as you give it gas it spits and kicks and cuts of, I can keep it going by continually choking and unchoking but it has a new carb on it, so no blockages or anything, it's crazy, runs great half throttle or a hair less, no choke, clean run, give it gas and itsike it's being smothered and cuts off unless I choke, it come alive again let off choke and do that constantly until turn it back down and its idles fine, what are somethings I could check, and do you think it could be the coil or head gasket cause I've checked everything else, thanks hope to hear back soon,
did u solve your issue ?
You mentioned "Herb Shaver" . I also remember a man by that name , who used soup up and race VW beetles . Any chance we're talking avout the same guy , (North Carolina) ?
Not sure I am on the west coast (Washington). It was Herb Shaffer
Thank you Jeff
Great video! Where did you get that coil or what’s the part number? It’s the exact piece I need. Thank you
Did you ever get the part number for it? It’s the same one I need too.
Can I use a pocket knife if I don't gaping tool
Thanks man very helpful
I have a Briggs and station manual and it says ,010 on all Briggs coils
If you can't find or don't have a feeler gauge a Home Depot paper bag folded two layers is exactly .012. I couldn't believe it myself
What will happen or what problems would occur if its touching the flywheel?
it wont work
@@JeffsLittleEngineService I tore my Briggs and stratton push mower apart down to the block. Cause it would start and then die immediately. I cleaned and reinstalled everything , but I remember pushing the coil up to the flywheel until in touched it. The mower started up first pull.This was the first time I have ever tore apart a engine. Some guys at work told me to use a feeler gauge to reset it that if I didn't it could cause problems. What's your professional opinion?
i have briggs and Stratton 12.5 i/c model 291802-0118e1.is ign coil . 012
Looks like you can use a new air cleaner housing
I use Dollar bill clearance! Flywheel. Ignition coil.
Jeff , according to the briggs manual, it plainly says a coil is set at .10 thousands of an inch
Thanks fo rthe info!. I have always set at .12 and never had a problem. But correct specs. is always best!!!
Are coils on say 8 to 12.5hp standard Briggs riding mower engines interchangable?
Not sure....... I think they are the same unless it is off an OHV model engine..
Some engines are gapped .006 to .010. Other engines are gapped .010 to .014.
i use a peas of paper on the flyweel and set the coil op agenst the paper then titening. works evrytime
Good old business card and done.
Works every time.
Jeff MacDougall exactly!
Very helpful, than you👍
hello!! i have a craftsman 6.5 brigs lawnmower do you know where i can find parts for it? did you see that tube going from the carb into the piston i need that mines cracked and i also need a new carb assembly
parts are available on the internet
Search for your engine model at the B&S site: www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/manuals.html?icid=freshnav_a# . Look for the parts document; it has exploded diagrams of your engine, along with numbered parts reference.
From there, you can find the part you need and then search for it online - many of them are available on Amazon.
Bad information Jeff. The spec is actually 6 to 10. (006-.010) thousandths according to briggs and stratton not "tweeeelve" I have seen the air gap spec on some of the larger displacement riding mower engines at 10 to 14 housandths so maybe that's where that came from.
You may be right but tweeeeeelve has worked for me on everything for 20 years now! lol
What if you gapped not over the magnet?
should be fine but over the magnet is more precise
@JeffsLittleEngineService Thanks. I get weak intermitten spark. All this from replacing the blade! Then it wouldnt start!
Thank you Sir.
wooould have love to see some spark for assurance..
Me too. I think his gap is a little big. Half that (.006) works better.
The Briggs book says 0.10. I should know because I do have several books on Briggs and Station engines
@@rayburnett3253 So, i need to find the model number in order to know the correct gap? Right now i have been looking and can't find the engine model number. All i found was the family number.
Whats the name of that gapping tool and where to buy it Please?
Feeler gauges. AutoZone or somewhere similar. Pay attention to the range though. Some cheaper ones don't go real small and might skip a few sizes along the way.
@@davidfoster5561 thank you
@@sagitario12ish You're welcome.
I don’t know why the gap would be .012 for all engines.That doesn’t even make sense.Of course if you put a feeler gauge in the gap before taking the coil off should give you a pretty accurate reading of what it is supposed to be provided of course you take it off new.
.012 always works for me
Thanku ! And just saying #12 the way u did will make me remember it for everr
12!!!!!! LOL!
An excellent video. ♡ T.E.N.
Thank you very much!
I see ebay has aftermarket coils for 12.00 free shipping. Are they any good?
I wouldn't do it. crappy parts usually
Jeff's Little Engine Service Thats what I figured China junk.
Thanks for the tip. I boughta Briggs-Stratton OEM parts for a flathead twin I have to replace the coil on . Willl use a tappet gauge to gap.
A genuine B & S is about $110, that's a game changer on a $20 mower
Mình cần tìm ic cuộn dây đánh lửa này bạn có thể giúp mình
Cuộn dây Briggs và Stratton rất phổ biến. cố gắng tìm một cái đã qua sử dụng. mua mới cũng rẻ
@@JeffsLittleEngineService mình đã tìm đủ mọi cách nhưng không thể tìm được. Bạn có thể giúp mình. Củ hay mới càng tốt.
Pretty crusty one, there.
I clean them up if the gap measures to a good business card thickness.
Some cards are thin, some are .012".
If you can get the card to just , slide out , under tension, you're just right.
Check the kill wire, it connects below and when you let go of the bail at the handle a ground takes spark from you.
Switching to a "close enough" Magneto part for a test means you may need to clean yours.
Connect the kill so it shuts off when you want. If you do things like that. Safety first.
good tips
Business card does the trick
What is the gap on a briggs and stratton. Model 10L902 type 0469 e1 anyone know?
Thank you
.006/.010
@@barryseifert6053 Thank you
Get on with it mate
So how many ugga duggas is tight enough? 🤦
Should be .006 to .010...
does a rusty flywheel affect the Spark
as long as the magnet is not too rusty it's ok
Yes it does always good to clean it
I cant even get the bolts off properly its like between a 6 and 7mm wrench. Which doesnt exist since we use metric.
1/4 in
you may find that a 6.5 wrench may fit, not as easy to get hold of as the full mm sizes but I managed to get one. Also the small hex drive tools are 1/4 inch so an extension for these would do the job. Female end on the bolt and a small adjustable on the male end.
What can be done of one of those screws breaks? I have one where the screw broke on removal of a dead coil.
bad bad news....
@@JeffsLittleEngineService Naw. Turns out a bit of PB Blaster and a propane torch loosened it up just fine. A pair of vice grips did the rest. Took about 5 minutes.
just give us the gap and save the history lesson
Just look it up yourself and save us from yo lil b* fit
Me thinking back to hitting those bolts with an impact 👀👀👀👀👀👀😭😭😂😂
lol!
It's really bad when you have to fast forward pass the crap to get the gap clearance 😂
THE WAY THAT WAS DONE WILL NOT YIELD AN ACCURATE DISTANCE, NEEDS TO BE SOMETHING THAT WILL CONFORM TO THE RADIUS, LIKE BRASS SHIM STOCK OR EVEN PRENMEASURED "PAPER ", ON NEWER MOTORS THE DISTANCE IS CLOSER TO 0.006", REGARDS
What happened to that engine?! It looks like you soaked it in saltwater!
The great Pacific Northwest rain!
@@JeffsLittleEngineService You have my condolences.
Its 12 thousandths for anyone else in their garage who just wants the fucking answer.
Go to 2:12 in the vid and you will see that he specifically provides the gap in inches and mm ( 0.012" or 0.3048 mm )
.
Now apologize. Good catch Stephen Crouse. I edited my post.
@@tedreid1035 .012 (.12 is nearly an eighth of an inch).
@@stephencrouse6032 Good catch Stephen Crouse. I edited my post.