Part 3 | Army to Fire Truck | Pump is in place!!!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
- Today is part 3 of the army to fire truck conversion, and the only focus today is to get the pump mounted up onto the frame.
Once the pump is in place that sets in motion where everything else is able to go so its arguably the most important part!!!
I'd go either Nylock Nuts or a split pin arrangement on the motor mounting bolts as I think the rubber dampers will negate the spring washer action.
yes agree, definitely nylock nuts maybe even with locktite added ,....looks good thou .
Got love air started Diesels 😅
hi JH, the electronics on the water cannon will be a bit exposed to heat, if mounted on the bumper. If mounted on top of the tank, they will have a better chance at survival, plus as you have said, provide crew protection.
Mount a mater stream on the front side of the tank and the remote nozzle on the front bumper. A 150' front line is needed on the front bumper in a box. All class one fire trucks in the US has one. I was a volunteer officer in our Rural fire department and went to a number of structure fires, field fires, and car wrecks. Many times I was the only person on the engine fighting the fire until help arrived.
the season been really good up here in Geraldton the crops look great but the ffing weeds
Maybe mount the nozzle over the cab roof. Easy access to water, still get your crew protection plus better for cab protection too, and better field of fire than any of the other positions. Might just need good windscreen wipers 😅
Hi JH
Love your content!! I'm from South Africa, and here's my 5 cents worth.
From a vibrations point: The dampers needs to be one above the pump foot and the other between the pump foot and blue frame bar. The two will then act as a damping force in both directions against the spring force of the set up.
Your way will also work this might just be a bit more efficient.
What a Weapon! Our Rfs cat1 have the cannon mounted on the front, with a video camera & joystick controller in the cab
Southeast Colorado, we get some nasty field and range fires. We ran brush trucks with split spray bars or nozzles so we could fight one side or the other. I've seen some newer trucks lately with a remote nozzle mounted on the front. Location seems to agency choice as to the bumper or on a brush guard. Two of our favorite pieces of equipment for field or range fires are what we refer to as a maintainer or road grader and as big a disc that a farmer would show up with. My son-in-law in Western Kansas says that farmers there will often keep a big tractor and disc sitting by the field they are harvesting. They see a fire and head for it. Three or more 40 ft. discs can make a hellava firebreak in nothing flat.
Roof mounted for sure. I’m sure in some of the our old army Mack parts manuals at work they’d have some diagrams for roof mounted equipment.
Loving the channel.
Seems to my mind that a rubber block on the bottom will allow the bolt to come loose, two blocks top and bottom of the actual engine mount will allow it to move more directly as the block is closer to the engine. I could definitely be wrong though.
Glad to see you got some rain.
Double nutting the bolt threads will help keep the pump bolts from loosening.
Dexter did a great job over seeing the build
If anything goes wrong with that truck just ask Dexter how to fix it he was definitely in on the action looking for a spoiling
I'm at 5:11. How about taking the radiator off and have it a remote unit? I know it will be done by the end of the video but You could put the radiator anywhere since it looks like the electric fan could go anywhere with it too. As far as the mounts for the engine, how much flex are you going to have in the BIG water lines connected to the pump? They are going to HAVE to have rubber on ALL connections to the engine. As far as the big nozzle, I like it directly overhead therefore what I'm seeing from my vantage point is where the nozzle is also going.
Good to see you're going with a tap on the air tank,cheers
Just my opinion I would have used 75x50 channel instead of SHS just from previous encounters it but if using SHS I suggest drilling your holes larger and fitting sleeves to help make it last longer
Hey mate have you thought about putting front spray bars on the truck, similar to what your bridage truck could possibly have, might just help as a double knock on any fire with the use of the remote cannon as well, and as for a location of the remote cannon I have seen a couple brigade trucks in my area with them mounted to the front of the truck on the bullbar. Keep up the good work mate
Great job JH and Henry
Great video JH
Nylock nuts underneath will do the job want loose any loose nuts.
Nyloc nuts spring washer would be useless with the rubber washers
JH, I would put a rubber washer top and bottom of the motor supports with a metal washer under the bolt head. I would then put two washers and double nut under the support frame to make sure the nut doesn’t come undone when the motor is in operation. What about putting the water cannon on the cab roof. Enjoying your videos.
NYLOC nuts forget the spring washers if you are using the rubber
Put the rubber mounts in between the top of the bolt head and then between the frame and the support beam for the engine, not underneath as you have shown in your video.
The reason for this is because you want to cushion the engine from vibrations not the bolts themselves.
Then I would put a spring washer and two nuts underneath the support frame so that it doesn't come loose
Great job JH so far so good 👍
Don’t use spring washers, use nyloc nuts
Don't worry about a spring washer, they're pretty much useless in my opinion. Just double nut the bottom. Two nuts lock together for the win. She ain't coming loose. (22:00)
I feel like drilling out the tanks is sacrilege !!! would be better to just have a manifold
And it's raining!!
Might want to add that engine exhaust to your list, where it is could start its own fire.
I will lock the bolt with two nuts.
What is the dogs name
Drill bigger hole weld nuts on you,ll find away