@@modeloco well mine think I’m having a midlife crisis 😂 I have had 00 train sets in the past, I’m really good at doing model detailing and art work, so I was thinking I’m gonna do something with this scale because Iv not as much room, so I’m new to all this in a proper layout way, Iv got a lot to look into especially with wiring it right and points, I’m going to use Peco track too it looks way better, but I must say Iv literally ordered loads of the TT 120 stuff 😬 and lots more on scenery products 😂 I was thinking once you add the joints track fixer things, could one solder it on a way to then make a better join.
Yes, I’ve soldered many fishplates in the past in OO of course. First attempts can always be a bit messy as I tended to overheat and didn’t have a good enough soldering iron. This of course will be a little more tricky in TT:120 but, again practice makes perfect. Once soldered, in a straight position of course, you get a very smooth curve indeed when you flex the track. Always run solder on outer rail as flanges run on inner 👍
Very interesting. Can see why they've put a second profile on the bottom of the rail - more for the chairs/sleepers to bind to, carries the joiner out of sight which would allow a cosmetic fishplate to be used for better realism, and the visible profile of the track above ballast level will be spot on. So enthused by this new scale. Having a gauge & scale in harmony is really welcome, and the Peco track really does look the business. Thanks for the video - just about to order a box of Peco and some points to mess about with. Would be ideal if they did the track in 6 foot lengths to get round those corners in one piece.
In OO, I have been known to solder two 3' lengths of track together before bending. It means waste at both ends, but also a smoother curve. I guess TT will have less of an expansion issue, too.
I'm a bit slow getting to this video. I'm just at the beginning of my TT120 journey and all I've got so far is a loop of Hornby track (all the track from the Scotsman coutesy of eBay!) so this was very helpful. I was wondering if you have looked at Tillig track or similar?
I’m only using Peco points and their flexible track with some short pieces of Hornby set track to accommodate the Hornby uncouplers that clip in. My latest video gives it a mention how this was achieved, etc. From what I see, Tillig is quite expensive and it’s not really the British sleeper look, which is what I like about Peco .
Now then Andy. You didn’t mention the 36mm (possibly more scale correct?) parallel spacing of the Peco, compared to the 43mm spacing of Hornby. Which did you use? I’m planning on using the 36 as I won’t be running the longer modern period carriages
The track I’ve laid so far on bends I’ve gone with a 43mm spacing on curves and on straights at present 39mm but, after some testing and once I’ve gathered various rolling stock, may bring that in to 36mm once I pull up again for dropper or, bus wiring. Shallower bends will also allow for some tweaking. It’s all in flux really as it’s all so new to me. For some reason the 43mm set track spacing doesn’t look as noticeable as it did, relatively speaking, on my OO layouts if, I attempted using that set track spacing but, that’s most definitely due to, not having much rolling stock to get a real view of how it looks. If like my OO, I’ll end up going streamline, as much as I can.
@@modeloco I’m waiting on some 36mm spaced track templates from that Mark chap on eBay before I fix mine just to make sure I don’t get any carriage clashes. BTW I’ve not seen anyone mention this spacing difference (which I first found out via AnyRail) on TH-cam yet. Might be worth doing a quickie?
Hi Christopher, Trust you’re well. Finally got a video out about this. It’s at the end of Part 2 of 2. The quickie turned into an hour but, thought it best to go from start to finish. It’s such an important part of the process and, one I’ve always found a little vague. This, initial question, inspired the whole process and, the cogs in my head to turn. From that day, until yesterday I’ve been weaving away behind the scenes on how best to serve this. Missed you on the chat lately but, your comments, helped forge this one out. The Modeloco spacing has now been unveiled to the world but, that’s not the whole story lol. You are appreciated 🙏👍⭐️
Hi Peter, They are a bit tricky coming down from OO. Plus, with them being n scale in reality, even smaller than we’d expect. I’m laying all Peco track so, it does get easier but, I am now well into my second full box and must get an update out asap
On another site they suggest cutting the two lengths of rail to different positions so that the joints and fishplates are not directly opposite if that makes sense
Now, just looking at this. If soldered, the rails in Peco TT:120 track, wouldn't then be able to slide in the track bed grooves as naturally occurs on a full length of track, as you curve it at both ends. Not sure what will happen & if this will cause the sleepers to bunch up at the fishplate sobered end? Mmm? Only one way to find out I guess! Hopefully, the rails may just all push & pull at the ends if, I work the bend from the soldered joint centre. Pioneering, was never all a given lol.
I would love to see a video on a point to point layout ( contemplating 6.5 to 7 meter) Wondering about crash prevention at ends and auto reverse so can have continuous run as if on a loop. Great video on a detail I'd be amazed if many could pick up on . I thought was all the same.
I actually considered the same scenario with the TT layout I’m building and that I’ve named Shiredale. Instead of the converging 4 tracks, I looked at two and, as you mention, reversing loops at either end. Trains would then wait until the line was clear before proceeding. Block detection would provide the peace of mind but, then let it go when the Peco crossovers came in and these then give me the choice of that kind of potential crash threat and prevention should I so wish at a later date. For now I can feel secure two trains can run freely and, I really really love the crossovers that my latest episode, coming out soon explains about, how I prevented the short outs that occur in this type of design. The glow inside on seeing it all finally come together is a very unique human emotion that I didn’t have to climb Everest first, to feel. Even though at times, it can feel like it 😂
@modeloco I was looking at a dead end with a siding at both ends. The main purpose being to keep as close to wall as possible. But at same time didn't want the long shelf set-up. I put a large set together back In 90's with the usual loops and sidings using Lima . It was heavy and very inconvenient. Hence, the narrow along the wall. ( fully wife approved)
For some reason my reply didn’t go under your message earlier so, here it is… This is what I use, tried & tested for over 10 years in my loft. Now use it on my outdoor run & simply trim down one side, once on track with craft knife, for TT:120 track but, some like to leave the overhang a little on both sides so, then mount it centrally. Obviously you don’t have to get it from me but, all information is there. If you do that’s good too. Hope this helps! www.buymeacoffee.com/modeloco/e/97699 www.buymeacoffee.com/modeloco/e/97703
tt120 is still in early stages...again, I think as time goes on the techniques will be learned and mastered by the manufacturers and will be easier for the consumer
@@modeloco when start to hand build some TT gauge points or turnouts the rail profile of Peco flex track is not going to fit with the Micro engineering rail that I will be using. That is what I was saying. A course one could always trim back the bottom of the rail and grind it down to fit the rail fishplates or joiner.
@@modeloco Peco N gauge and 00-9 have been like that for years - works well in practice, and even Simon Kohler at Hornby said Peco TT track is more accurate.
Thanks for all your great advice 🙏 I’m still waiting for all my TT 120 pre orders, can’t wait.
Thanks so much for all the support. Very exciting times. Not sure what my Family think but, they know I love this hobby, always have 🙏
@@modeloco well mine think I’m having a midlife crisis 😂 I have had 00 train sets in the past, I’m really good at doing model detailing and art work, so I was thinking I’m gonna do something with this scale because Iv not as much room, so I’m new to all this in a proper layout way, Iv got a lot to look into especially with wiring it right and points, I’m going to use Peco track too it looks way better, but I must say Iv literally ordered loads of the TT 120 stuff 😬 and lots more on scenery products 😂 I was thinking once you add the joints track fixer things, could one solder it on a way to then make a better join.
Yes, I’ve soldered many fishplates in the past in OO of course. First attempts can always be a bit messy as I tended to overheat and didn’t have a good enough soldering iron. This of course will be a little more tricky in TT:120 but, again practice makes perfect. Once soldered, in a straight position of course, you get a very smooth curve indeed when you flex the track. Always run solder on outer rail as flanges run on inner 👍
Very interesting. Can see why they've put a second profile on the bottom of the rail - more for the chairs/sleepers to bind to, carries the joiner out of sight which would allow a cosmetic fishplate to be used for better realism, and the visible profile of the track above ballast level will be spot on.
So enthused by this new scale. Having a gauge & scale in harmony is really welcome, and the Peco track really does look the business.
Thanks for the video - just about to order a box of Peco and some points to mess about with. Would be ideal if they did the track in 6 foot lengths to get round those corners in one piece.
That’s a very good point Pete. 6 foot lengths would certainly be welcomed by me 👍
In OO, I have been known to solder two 3' lengths of track together before bending.
It means waste at both ends, but also a smoother curve. I guess TT will have less of an expansion issue, too.
Expansion coefficient for any metal is the same regardless of size.
Thanks for this technical review. Very interesting.
When the craft knife didn’t cut the sleepers as in OO just thought, there’s gotta be something different here 👍
I'm a bit slow getting to this video. I'm just at the beginning of my TT120 journey and all I've got so far is a loop of Hornby track (all the track from the Scotsman coutesy of eBay!) so this was very helpful. I was wondering if you have looked at Tillig track or similar?
I’m only using Peco points and their flexible track with some short pieces of Hornby set track to accommodate the Hornby uncouplers that clip in. My latest video gives it a mention how this was achieved, etc. From what I see, Tillig is quite expensive and it’s not really the British sleeper look, which is what I like about Peco .
Ah... those are good points. I liked the idea of concrete sleepers but hadn't looked into it any further than that.
Now then Andy. You didn’t mention the 36mm (possibly more scale correct?) parallel spacing of the Peco, compared to the 43mm spacing of Hornby.
Which did you use? I’m planning on using the 36 as I won’t be running the longer modern period carriages
The track I’ve laid so far on bends I’ve gone with a 43mm spacing on curves and on straights at present 39mm but, after some testing and once I’ve gathered various rolling stock, may bring that in to 36mm once I pull up again for dropper or, bus wiring. Shallower bends will also allow for some tweaking. It’s all in flux really as it’s all so new to me. For some reason the 43mm set track spacing doesn’t look as noticeable as it did, relatively speaking, on my OO layouts if, I attempted using that set track spacing but, that’s most definitely due to, not having much rolling stock to get a real view of how it looks. If like my OO, I’ll end up going streamline, as much as I can.
@@modeloco I’m waiting on some 36mm spaced track templates from that Mark chap on eBay before I fix mine just to make sure I don’t get any carriage clashes.
BTW I’ve not seen anyone mention this spacing difference (which I first found out via AnyRail) on TH-cam yet. Might be worth doing a quickie?
@@SDRM_Model_Railway_Club You read my mind lol 😆
Hi Christopher, Trust you’re well. Finally got a video out about this. It’s at the end of Part 2 of 2. The quickie turned into an hour but, thought it best to go from start to finish. It’s such an important part of the process and, one I’ve always found a little vague. This, initial question, inspired the whole process and, the cogs in my head to turn. From that day, until yesterday I’ve been weaving away behind the scenes on how best to serve this. Missed you on the chat lately but, your comments, helped forge this one out. The Modeloco spacing has now been unveiled to the world but, that’s not the whole story lol. You are appreciated 🙏👍⭐️
I have struggled with the PECO TT track especially trying to put fishplates on.
Hi Peter, They are a bit tricky coming down from OO. Plus, with them being n scale in reality, even smaller than we’d expect. I’m laying all Peco track so, it does get easier but, I am now well into my second full box and must get an update out asap
On another site they suggest cutting the two lengths of rail to different positions so that the joints and fishplates are not directly opposite if that makes sense
Yes, indeed. Isn’t it strange how we forget these little things with the passing of time but, we’ll said and much appreciated 👍🙏⭐️
It’s a good idea to solder your rail joints when laying flex track in a curve
Yes, it dawned on me after I uploaded, just never crossed my mind at the time. Never done TT:120 track. Thank You!
Now, just looking at this. If soldered, the rails in Peco TT:120 track, wouldn't then be able to slide in the track bed grooves as naturally occurs on a full length of track, as you curve it at both ends. Not sure what will happen & if this will cause the sleepers to bunch up at the fishplate sobered end? Mmm? Only one way to find out I guess! Hopefully, the rails may just all push & pull at the ends if, I work the bend from the soldered joint centre. Pioneering, was never all a given lol.
@Modeloco Can you say where you obtained the tracksetta-like gauges you're using?
Hi Martyn, Certainly can. Will tag under video now!
I would love to see a video on a point to point layout ( contemplating 6.5 to 7 meter)
Wondering about crash prevention at ends and auto reverse so can have continuous run as if on a loop.
Great video on a detail I'd be amazed if many could pick up on .
I thought was all the same.
I actually considered the same scenario with the TT layout I’m building and that I’ve named Shiredale. Instead of the converging 4 tracks, I looked at two and, as you mention, reversing loops at either end. Trains would then wait until the line was clear before proceeding. Block detection would provide the peace of mind but, then let it go when the Peco crossovers came in and these then give me the choice of that kind of potential crash threat and prevention should I so wish at a later date. For now I can feel secure two trains can run freely and, I really really love the crossovers that my latest episode, coming out soon explains about, how I prevented the short outs that occur in this type of design. The glow inside on seeing it all finally come together is a very unique human emotion that I didn’t have to climb Everest first, to feel. Even though at times, it can feel like it 😂
@modeloco I was looking at a dead end with a siding at both ends.
The main purpose being to keep as close to wall as possible. But at same time didn't want the long shelf set-up.
I put a large set together back In 90's with the usual loops and sidings using Lima . It was heavy and very inconvenient. Hence, the narrow along the wall. ( fully wife approved)
An end to end may leave you yearning that express hurtling by but, it’s better than no glow at all 👍
Hi Andy, what are you using for track underlay?
For some reason my reply didn’t go under your message earlier so, here it is…
This is what I use, tried & tested for over 10 years in my loft. Now use it on my outdoor run & simply trim down one side, once on track with craft knife, for TT:120 track but, some like to leave the overhang a little on both sides so, then mount it centrally. Obviously you don’t have to get it from me but, all information is there. If you do that’s good too. Hope this helps!
www.buymeacoffee.com/modeloco/e/97699
www.buymeacoffee.com/modeloco/e/97703
tt120 is still in early stages...again, I think as time goes on the techniques will be learned and mastered by the manufacturers and will be easier for the consumer
Yes, it’s a good time and, when we see the challenges we face, as our greatest opportunities, even better 👍
The Peco rail profile is going to h'll when being paired up with handlaid points.
Not really sure what it is you’re trying to say but, thanks for the input
@@modeloco when start to hand build some TT gauge points or turnouts the rail profile of Peco flex track is not going to fit with the Micro engineering rail that I will be using. That is what I was saying. A course one could always trim back the bottom of the rail and grind it down to fit the rail fishplates or joiner.
@@earlfreeman93 I’m with you now yes 👍
Thats just weird...
It got me rather confused at first but, think n gauge track by Peco is the same sort of design
@@modeloco will have to take a look at some next time I'm down the shop, admittedly been a while since I looked at any N gauge.
@@modeloco Peco N gauge and 00-9 have been like that for years - works well in practice, and even Simon Kohler at Hornby said Peco TT track is more accurate.