Love this and the oil video, keeping it down to earth. Not trying to sell some magic oil at £30 for a teeny tiny bottle, just linseed oil and beeswax. Like fine furniture, it's worked for hundreds of years and I find cleaning and maintaining quite therapeutic, the aesthetics of a beautifully engineered machine like these is part of the enjoyment.
Thanks, I was wondering what to use on my just refinished with BLO stock. I have both Minwax for furniture and Renaissance wax; I’ve had good luck with the Ren wax so will apply a coat of that after the stock has completely dried out for a couple of weeks. Appreciate the look at a beautiful piece of wood for sure, as well as the info. 👍
What is the best procedure for initially cleaning the stock after a day, (or few days) of shooting before applying wax? And do you recommend just wax after cleaning? If and when would you apply boiled linseed oil?
Hi John, happy to help as best as we can, but truly each gun and level of use by its owner can vary so it's impossible to tell you when or how often you should apply BLO or wax protection. If you're noticing dry spots on the stock then it may need oil applied before waxing it again. This is usually an indicator that the protective layer is gone and oil is needed. For more details on how to apply the oil, please see our other video here: th-cam.com/video/vxmpoImHJCA/w-d-xo.html (NOTE: Cleaning and prep instructions are in the video description at the link should you need it) Regarding the waxing, please note, this step is not meant to replace any finish that is missing on your gunstock. It will, however, help to protect the finish that is already there. As long as the protective layer is still intact, and no oil is needed, you can re-apply the protective wax as you'd like. For regular use: We recommend using a product such as G96 Complete Triple-Action Gun Treatment (or similar) to wipe down your gun after each use, before storing it in the case. You can use this product on both the wood and the barrel and action for a light wipe down. This will help to keep your gun in top condition between regular wood maintenance.
I dont understand why the timber is not being sealed where the chequering is? I get the bit about clogging but doesn’t the timber need to be sealed? Shouldn’t the chequering be redone over time?
Rob, wipe it down with a damp (not wet) cloth first. Then wipe it down vigorously with a soft cotton cloth making sure the surface is clean, dry, and free of debris. In most cases, this should be sufficient to clean and prep the stock before applying a fresh coat of oil. For more details on how to apply the oil please check out our previous video here: th-cam.com/video/vxmpoImHJCA/w-d-xo.html if at any time you have questions, please give us a call.
In addition to the reply from Rob - I have also read in different “forum threads” that mineral spirits is also a good method of removing the wax before reapplying oil. So, would you agree?
@@huntsman1711 wiping it down with a damp cloth and doing so vigorously should be sufficient to remove the wax residue so there's no need to use chemicals. Keep in mind, after waxing the stock it will begin to wear. By the time you need to reapply the wax, there should not be much left to remove at that point.
This is not true, you can remove the wax from the stock by wiping it down with a damp (not wet) non-abrasive cloth before applying a new coat of BLO. In fact, you can even use a small amount of BLO to remove the wax should you like to.
I sweat like crazy. I took my CG out today to shoot for the first time and after 50 rds, I can see a dull spot where my sweaty face presses against the stock. I plan to do a fresh coat of boiled linseed oil and after that cures, a coat a wax. Should I maybe do 2 coats of each due to my sweaty nature? Any advice will be appreciated.
Yes you can apply multiple coats of each as many times as you need. In the video Andrew mentions he sweats frequently and this calls for him to apply the protective coat more frequently than some. There are a number of other factors like bug spray and sunscreen, etc. If we can be of any help, please feel free to give us a call.
@@huntsman1711 Mineral spirits have the potential to strip the OIL as well as the wax on your stock finish, so if you choose to use it, please proceed cautiously. We would recommend a damp soft cloth to buff off the wax.
Love this and the oil video, keeping it down to earth. Not trying to sell some magic oil at £30 for a teeny tiny bottle, just linseed oil and beeswax. Like fine furniture, it's worked for hundreds of years and I find cleaning and maintaining quite therapeutic, the aesthetics of a beautifully engineered machine like these is part of the enjoyment.
Thanks, I was wondering what to use on my just refinished with BLO stock. I have both Minwax for furniture and Renaissance wax; I’ve had good luck with the Ren wax so will apply a coat of that after the stock has completely dried out for a couple of weeks. Appreciate the look at a beautiful piece of wood for sure, as well as the info. 👍
Andrew mentioned both in the video, whichever is your preferred choice. We don't recommend any specific product it's all personal preference.
What is the best procedure for initially cleaning the stock after a day, (or few days) of shooting before applying wax? And do you recommend just wax after cleaning? If and when would you apply boiled linseed oil?
Hi John, happy to help as best as we can, but truly each gun and level of use by its owner can vary so it's impossible to tell you when or how often you should apply BLO or wax protection. If you're noticing dry spots on the stock then it may need oil applied before waxing it again. This is usually an indicator that the protective layer is gone and oil is needed.
For more details on how to apply the oil, please see our other video here: th-cam.com/video/vxmpoImHJCA/w-d-xo.html (NOTE: Cleaning and prep instructions are in the video description at the link should you need it)
Regarding the waxing, please note, this step is not meant to replace any finish that is missing on your gunstock. It will, however, help to protect the finish that is already there. As long as the protective layer is still intact, and no oil is needed, you can re-apply the protective wax as you'd like.
For regular use: We recommend using a product such as G96 Complete Triple-Action Gun Treatment (or similar) to wipe down your gun after each use, before storing it in the case. You can use this product on both the wood and the barrel and action for a light wipe down. This will help to keep your gun in top condition between regular wood maintenance.
I dont understand why the timber is not being sealed where the chequering is? I get the bit about clogging but doesn’t the timber need to be sealed? Shouldn’t the chequering be redone over time?
Please feel free to apply the oil finish in any way you choose. We recommend not filling the checkering.
How would I remove the wax if parts of the stock showed need of oiling again down the road?
Yeah that's what I wanna know as well
Rob, wipe it down with a damp (not wet) cloth first. Then wipe it down vigorously with a soft cotton cloth making sure the surface is clean, dry, and free of debris. In most cases, this should be sufficient to clean and prep the stock before applying a fresh coat of oil. For more details on how to apply the oil please check out our previous video here: th-cam.com/video/vxmpoImHJCA/w-d-xo.html if at any time you have questions, please give us a call.
In addition to the reply from Rob - I have also read in different “forum threads” that mineral spirits is also a good method of removing the wax before reapplying oil. So, would you agree?
@@huntsman1711 wiping it down with a damp cloth and doing so vigorously should be sufficient to remove the wax residue so there's no need to use chemicals. Keep in mind, after waxing the stock it will begin to wear. By the time you need to reapply the wax, there should not be much left to remove at that point.
is it true once you apply wax to oil stock you can no longer apply oil and have to stick to wax only?
This is not true, you can remove the wax from the stock by wiping it down with a damp (not wet) non-abrasive cloth before applying a new coat of BLO. In fact, you can even use a small amount of BLO to remove the wax should you like to.
Andrew great video! How many coats of BLO is recommended before applying wax? Many thanks
One is sufficient, however, it is your preference and you can add as many as needed to achieve your desired look.
I sweat like crazy. I took my CG out today to shoot for the first time and after 50 rds, I can see a dull spot where my sweaty face presses against the stock. I plan to do a fresh coat of boiled linseed oil and after that cures, a coat a wax. Should I maybe do 2 coats of each due to my sweaty nature? Any advice will be appreciated.
Yes you can apply multiple coats of each as many times as you need. In the video Andrew mentions he sweats frequently and this calls for him to apply the protective coat more frequently than some. There are a number of other factors like bug spray and sunscreen, etc. If we can be of any help, please feel free to give us a call.
Caesar Guerini USA can you use mineral spirits to remove wax before reapplying oil?
@@huntsman1711 Mineral spirits have the potential to strip the OIL as well as the wax on your stock finish, so if you choose to use it, please proceed cautiously. We would recommend a damp soft cloth to buff off the wax.