As a general rule of thumb, salvage your original CV joints if it's not too far gone (hasn't started clicking in turns). Aftermarket axles often times fall short in quality. Is the boot torn but not clicking yet? It's not too late! Take it apart and replace with a one-piece boot.
I had a vibration issue under load only on my 94 Integra GSR, back in the mid-2000's. I went through a SLEW of bad AutoZone reman axles, replacing probably 4 or 5 sets within a year's time. After that I swore to never use reman axles again. I've been through a few sets of NAPA and O'Reilly brand new axles over the last 20 years. I usually just get a whole new one whenever I find a torn boot. I end up replacing each axle once every 5-6 years or so, which really to me isn't a big deal considering the axles cost less than $100. However, I recently noticed some dry rot on both inner CV joints on my GSR, and this time I've decided to go with replacing the boots only. The axles themselves are fine (O'Reilly units currently), and the boots aren't torn. But I'm going to proactively replace the inner joint boots before the CHD9 Tail of the Dragon trip in October.
I have the same issue in my Honda Civic. I regret changing the original axle instead of just changing the boot. The vibration on acceleration has never gone away no matter what aftermarket axle I have used, the vibration started once I replaced the original axle 😢😢
Here here! Had this problem with my '05 EX 5-speed and it was the axles. New aftermarket axles, although looking good, perpetuated the problem. I bought a matching OEM pair from a scrap yard to fix my problem. I also bought a pair of low-mileage OEM from eBay. I think I'm set for life now. 😉
You have helped me so much over the years, Eric! I truly appreciate the time and effort it takes you to share your experience with us. #brofist I recently completed a refresh of my girlfriend's front end and drive axles, and was wracking my brain trying to figure out a way to transfer those dampers onto the new aftermarket axles I purchased. In the end I went for completing the job rather than getting stuck for too long over something I didn't know *for sure* would be an issue. Sure enough, there's some vibration on acceleration. I own a 1991 Accord DX with an MTX and other than slicing my hand open on the brake rotor's dust shield in a moment of carelessness, I never felt any vibration with either of the aftermarket axles I installed. You have surely seen more Hondas than I ever will, but I never noticed any of that generation Accord's CV Axles with the dampers. I bet I just got lucky somehow, because it isn't as if I was in a position to buy OEM or super high quality aftermarket replacement parts. Your suggestion that salvaged oem axles aren't always a bad idea brings me a lot of comfort over trying to get them new from Mazda!
Whelp, that explains why my drivers side axle is aftermarket on my Element, and why it vibrates on the highway. This video is two and a half minutes of pure gold.
Cheap aftermarket axles are not balanced properly too. Also, some so-called mechanics or DIY'ers who change axle boots do not reinstall the axle bearings and line up the splines the way they were when they came out, nor regrease them.
I've been chasing a vibration under heavy acceleration on an '88 Cavalier Z24 convertible. Replaced both CV shafts, twice. The last time was both new ones. Still does it. I don't even like driving it anymore.
Good to know, I'll keep that in mind. I recently had a vibration issue with a 2011 CRV that I let sit for 4 months; ended up being a front right caliper that's hung. Don't let your vehicles sit a long time like I did, it always tends to make them mad somehow.
Wow great channel! I started replacing just the joints if I can’t find good original ones in the salvage yard. Cost way more than the reman but they generally work better.
My 2000 Volvo S40 had this exact problem...vibration under loads especially at highway speed. One of the Axle CV joint boots was ripped open and all of the grease flung out. Luckily I found a new OEM axle on eBay for a great price and now the car is happy.
I've got a 1999 honda prelude with a cv boot that the band has shifted a bit and is slinging grease. You have just convinced me to forgo the aftermarket replacement parts.....and just keep my OEM....I'm just gonna change the boots.
I rebuilt my Acura TSX axles using OEM axles from the salvage yard and eBay. If the boot is torn or a CV joint is stiff then find another CV joint. I just bought the OEM boot kit from the dealer. To avoid repairing CV axles, replace boot and grease using OEM boot kit for all CV joints every 10 years or 110k mi.
This might be causing my current issue of steering wheel vibrations during turns and decelerating at freeway speed. I haven't noticed it much during acceleration but I will be more mindful of that. I thought maybe it was a tire issue but I don't see any cupping or uneven wear. The ball joints seem solid as well.
@@Patrick94GSR correct. So far I've came across none that can't be serviced but I always keep oem shaft with any balancers on the shaft and generally it's only the inner or outer cv joints that need replaced anyways so see no need to replace whole shaft.. sorry (axle) for you yanks.
I replaced both front CV axles on my 2017 Honda Accord several months ago. I have an odd vibration at high way speed. I’ll have to replace them with used OEM Honda cv joints to see if the vibration goes away.
I recently changed the front right axle on my 2007 Pilot, because it was leaking grease. Something told me to save it, which I did. The aftermarket axle is probably the culprit of a very slight vibration that I am now getting. I guess I will be re-booting the original and slapping it back in.
You’re right about the OEM prices from Honda. I think they just want us to buy a new car instead of fixing our old ones. Well when our 05 van finally does die, I’m buying a Toyota Corolla since all our kids are grown now. My son bought one of them as his first car and he loves it.
I had to replace an axle in my '08 Saturn Astra (OE parts are hard to find). No vibration dampener. At about 65 MPH, vibration hits. Of course I live in a large metroplex and have to drive on some of the most congested highways in North America, so I rarely get up to that speed. Still, aftermarket junk strikes again.
I'd be REALLY REALLY cautious about the spline at the very end. If that is worn you have to pull the transmission. You MUST check this. ALl that vibration can wear the spline
i've needed one since i got my truck. o'reilly wants 140 for aftermarket, or i can give toyota 700+ for a pile of parts to rebuild it myself. i don't spend too much time reversing to the left, so i think i'll just keep ignoring it for a while longer
Been driving a 2013 Honda Fit 263 thousand on the clock and about all that has been replaced are tires brakes bulbs wipers and change the oil. I am concerned about the timing chain with so many miles
God bless you and all your family around you, ErictheCarGuy Have a great weekend 👍 QUICK-WITTED, ErictheCarGuy From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 13:22 Good Afternoon 👍
What I have noticed with both my Honda Accord and my CRV as well as my 2006 Honda Accord if I went with anything other than OEM CV axles I would get shitty vibration went through everything made sure that the bearings were good and everything else before I had to bite the bullet thankfully for the Crv I found somebody who is basically searching for the same thing And they had to almost brand new barely used front CV axle for my Crv so I said yeah say less
Ive been having vibration through my steering wheel and gas pedal on my 23" type r. I tried to rebalance the wheels and rotate them around. But nothing seem to fix it. Is there any I could to rule it is the inner CV joint?
I have a FWD car with a mechanical LSD but lately the passenger side wheel has started losing grip. Normally the car would pull towards the inside of the corner under acceleration due to the LSD but now it doesn't if it has to lean on the right side wheel. Also, when pulling out of intersections if under medium hard acceleration the wheel tends to hop whereas previously the car would just pull normally. Do you reckon it could be a similar issue or would it be more likely to be an issue with the LSD itself? The dealership keeps telling me the suspension is fine, which was my initial suspicion.
Ive had such horrible issues with my car driving like complete shit after ive replaced EVERY PART IN THE SUSPENSION!!!! Ive boiled it down to the axles ive gotten 10s of alignments and wheel balances. its been a nightmare!!! I put some axles in recently and it drove smooth then started just hopping around at the slightest bump. Idk if theres some like bad bearing in my transaxle/transmission that causes too much play in the inner cv joint but from what ive seen that play is normal??? The only other part i havent replaced is inner tierod which can cause that shimmy movement but there was no play in them when i was inspecting them so i have no goddamn clue. Im bout to just tuck my tail and spend a couple thousand in the professional shop to have them troubleshoot it. -_- ive fixed every other car ive ever had and for some reason this 06 toyota matrix is a pain in the goddamn ass!!!!!!
I have a 2000 explorer and I'm getting vibration when I let go of the gas pedal but when I get back on the gas hard it goes away but if I ease into it makes it feel worse almost like death wobble could it be a cv axle?
I have a 02 Honda CR-V with over 250K miles on it and never had issues with vibration but the rubber booths were tore down so replaced the original CV shafts with an aftermarket set from ebay, SurTrack brand, it was about $120. I have put over 5K miles on it, have been running it with a 1.5 inch lift kit and bigger tires and have no CV shaft related vibrations. I haven't had the same luck with the aftermarket motor mounts thought.
I dont see those counterweights on the parts diagrams for my crosstour but i do have a slight steering wheel vibration randomly at whatever speed it feels like and then sometimes its just gone and it doesnt pull to one side either. I recently did some front suspension refreshing, new lower control arm bushings and upper control arms. During that time i also checked everything else. Play in the wheel bearings, none. Play in the tie rods, none in or out and the joints were good. Lower ball joints were good, uppers were replaced as part of the arms. The only thing that im suspecting now is the axles, it is a 4wd one but its still a honda at heart and its up front, ive had these axles out and ive looked them over while i was doing my engine replacement and i didnt notice anything out of the ordinary. I had to replace the boot on the passengers side inner as i damaged it the first time i tried taking out that axle (that halfshaft and inner joint is very hard to separate on these cars and im guessing the regular 8th gen accord too, i just took the whole thing out as one piece). The axles dont click or anything but with it being almost 15 years old and 125k miles could it be them? I dont mind spending money on this car obviously but thats a big purchase to do at once
I ran into the same issue with my Accord. I went a step further with a digital caliper at all of the bearing surfaces - the aftermarket surfaces were off by a couple of thousandths (less) then the original I replaced. The $500 difference per axle with the genuine Honda part was worth the investment.
I wonder if this is my problem, had it for 15K miles on 09 Accord Random vibration, almost a hum on long curves but not every time. Feel it in the floor boards and steering wheel. Put it on stands and no tire movement indicating bearing. Paid a local mechanic and he could not identify a problem, he refunded the money. Honda dealer couldn't identify it and charged me $200. No odd tire wear. Problem is no salvage yard near me has axles with less than 200K on them. Orielly does show new, not reconditioned ones 🤷♂️
Really miss the glory days of this channel. Eric hasn’t lost a step. ETCG forever.
He's an awesome dude
What makes it any less than glory days now? There is still quality content being uploaded with each video.
Been watching your videos since your old shop. The old old one. I have learned SO SO much from you, and here is another good one! Thank you Eric!
I chased this problem for 2 years with my '12 CRV and it took replacing both axles to fix it. I suspect it was inner joints just like this. Great vid.
I've learned a lot from you over the years. Thanks for your insight Eric!
As a general rule of thumb, salvage your original CV joints if it's not too far gone (hasn't started clicking in turns). Aftermarket axles often times fall short in quality. Is the boot torn but not clicking yet? It's not too late! Take it apart and replace with a one-piece boot.
I had a vibration issue under load only on my 94 Integra GSR, back in the mid-2000's. I went through a SLEW of bad AutoZone reman axles, replacing probably 4 or 5 sets within a year's time. After that I swore to never use reman axles again. I've been through a few sets of NAPA and O'Reilly brand new axles over the last 20 years. I usually just get a whole new one whenever I find a torn boot. I end up replacing each axle once every 5-6 years or so, which really to me isn't a big deal considering the axles cost less than $100.
However, I recently noticed some dry rot on both inner CV joints on my GSR, and this time I've decided to go with replacing the boots only. The axles themselves are fine (O'Reilly units currently), and the boots aren't torn. But I'm going to proactively replace the inner joint boots before the CHD9 Tail of the Dragon trip in October.
I have the same issue in my Honda Civic. I regret changing the original axle instead of just changing the boot. The vibration on acceleration has never gone away no matter what aftermarket axle I have used, the vibration started once I replaced the original axle 😢😢
This is the most articulate mechanic i know 👍 intelligent 🧠 dude
Here here! Had this problem with my '05 EX 5-speed and it was the axles. New aftermarket axles, although looking good, perpetuated the problem. I bought a matching OEM pair from a scrap yard to fix my problem. I also bought a pair of low-mileage OEM from eBay. I think I'm set for life now. 😉
You have helped me so much over the years, Eric! I truly appreciate the time and effort it takes you to share your experience with us. #brofist
I recently completed a refresh of my girlfriend's front end and drive axles, and was wracking my brain trying to figure out a way to transfer those dampers onto the new aftermarket axles I purchased. In the end I went for completing the job rather than getting stuck for too long over something I didn't know *for sure* would be an issue. Sure enough, there's some vibration on acceleration.
I own a 1991 Accord DX with an MTX and other than slicing my hand open on the brake rotor's dust shield in a moment of carelessness, I never felt any vibration with either of the aftermarket axles I installed. You have surely seen more Hondas than I ever will, but I never noticed any of that generation Accord's CV Axles with the dampers.
I bet I just got lucky somehow, because it isn't as if I was in a position to buy OEM or super high quality aftermarket replacement parts.
Your suggestion that salvaged oem axles aren't always a bad idea brings me a lot of comfort over trying to get them new from Mazda!
Whelp, that explains why my drivers side axle is aftermarket on my Element, and why it vibrates on the highway. This video is two and a half minutes of pure gold.
Cheap aftermarket axles are not balanced properly too. Also, some so-called mechanics or DIY'ers who change axle boots do not reinstall the axle bearings and line up the splines the way they were when they came out, nor regrease them.
Hey Eric! The company Raxles sells their axles with the balancer, as their products are rebuilt using original equipment axles.
You may have just solved a problem I've had for years on my 05!
I've been chasing a vibration under heavy acceleration on an '88 Cavalier Z24 convertible. Replaced both CV shafts, twice. The last time was both new ones. Still does it. I don't even like driving it anymore.
Good to know, I'll keep that in mind. I recently had a vibration issue with a 2011 CRV that I let sit for 4 months; ended up being a front right caliper that's hung.
Don't let your vehicles sit a long time like I did, it always tends to make them mad somehow.
Thanks for sharing Erik !
I also had the same issue on my 91’ Accord. We went through 3 sets of remanufactured rods before we found a good set. This was years ago.
Wow great channel! I started replacing just the joints if I can’t find good original ones in the salvage yard. Cost way more than the reman but they generally work better.
Hi Eric, been a long time since I've seen your channel recommended. Beard is looking fabulous brother.
My 2000 Volvo S40 had this exact problem...vibration under loads especially at highway speed. One of the Axle CV joint boots was ripped open and all of the grease flung out. Luckily I found a new OEM axle on eBay for a great price and now the car is happy.
I've got a 1999 honda prelude with a cv boot that the band has shifted a bit and is slinging grease. You have just convinced me to forgo the aftermarket replacement parts.....and just keep my OEM....I'm just gonna change the boots.
Vibration dampers come with their own issues. One of my axles had rusted under damper and broke on my 2006 Accord CL9
I rebuilt my Acura TSX axles using OEM axles from the salvage yard and eBay. If the boot is torn or a CV joint is stiff then find another CV joint. I just bought the OEM boot kit from the dealer. To avoid repairing CV axles, replace boot and grease using OEM boot kit for all CV joints every 10 years or 110k mi.
This might be causing my current issue of steering wheel vibrations during turns and decelerating at freeway speed. I haven't noticed it much during acceleration but I will be more mindful of that. I thought maybe it was a tire issue but I don't see any cupping or uneven wear. The ball joints seem solid as well.
This is why in just replace cv joints instead of full drive shafts
So you replace the inner tripod cup and bearings? On some axles the outer joint is not serviceable.
Aahahaha.
@@Patrick94GSR correct. So far I've came across none that can't be serviced but I always keep oem shaft with any balancers on the shaft and generally it's only the inner or outer cv joints that need replaced anyways so see no need to replace whole shaft.. sorry (axle) for you yanks.
I replaced both front CV axles on my 2017 Honda Accord several months ago. I have an odd vibration at high way speed. I’ll have to replace them with used OEM Honda cv joints to see if the vibration goes away.
I recently changed the front right axle on my 2007 Pilot, because it was leaking grease. Something told me to save it, which I did. The aftermarket axle is probably the culprit of a very slight vibration that I am now getting. I guess I will be re-booting the original and slapping it back in.
Replacing the axles on my 09 corolla, both outer joints are bad. Toyota wanted well over 300 each, going with new cardone's for a quarter the price.
Eric the Car Guy is awesome! (Copy for the algorithm!)
Same issue on my Accord
Just fix this issue on my 2011 Impala inner right boot was perfect but had no grease in it and needle bearing on one u joint cap were gone.
Vibration dampers are great, But I’ve seen several Hondas where the axle rusted away under the damper and the axle actually broke in half.
You can get the CV joints separate. OE from Japan. Still expensive
You’re right about the OEM prices from Honda. I think they just want us to buy a new car instead of fixing our old ones. Well when our 05 van finally does die, I’m buying a Toyota Corolla since all our kids are grown now. My son bought one of them as his first car and he loves it.
Used OEM axles for the win. Aftermarket axles are junk from my experience too.
I had to replace an axle in my '08 Saturn Astra (OE parts are hard to find). No vibration dampener. At about 65 MPH, vibration hits. Of course I live in a large metroplex and have to drive on some of the most congested highways in North America, so I rarely get up to that speed. Still, aftermarket junk strikes again.
I'd be REALLY REALLY cautious about the spline at the very end. If that is worn you have to pull the transmission. You MUST check this. ALl that vibration can wear the spline
I put aftermarket cv axles on my 06 civic, and it caused vibration. They don't have the dampeners either. 160 for a set that vibrates is ridiculous .
i've needed one since i got my truck. o'reilly wants 140 for aftermarket, or i can give toyota 700+ for a pile of parts to rebuild it myself. i don't spend too much time reversing to the left, so i think i'll just keep ignoring it for a while longer
Thanks
Those reman axels from parts house always have issues
Always bought aftermarket axles. Never had a problem. 🤔
Sure
Sometimes you get lucky, but how many for how many different models of vehicles have you bought in the past 10 years?
@@EarlSinclair97 replaced on my son's 2003 Honda Accord and my 97 Celica. Both from either eBay or Amazon for around $60 per side.
Been driving a 2013 Honda Fit 263 thousand on the clock and about all that has been replaced are tires brakes bulbs wipers and change the oil. I am concerned about the timing chain with so many miles
I've had the best luck with new axles from Cardone
God bless you and all your family around you, ErictheCarGuy
Have a great weekend
👍
QUICK-WITTED, ErictheCarGuy
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 13:22 Good Afternoon 👍
Can't wait for the next video
ErictheCarGuy
My honda 2013 Oddy has the same issue. I have to replace my driver side CV axle every 2 years.
I've seen a few axles rot in half under that dampener.
What I have noticed with both my Honda Accord and my CRV as well as my 2006 Honda Accord if I went with anything other than OEM CV axles I would get shitty vibration went through everything made sure that the bearings were good and everything else before I had to bite the bullet thankfully for the Crv I found somebody who is basically searching for the same thing And they had to almost brand new barely used front CV axle for my Crv so I said yeah say less
Ive been having vibration through my steering wheel and gas pedal on my 23" type r. I tried to rebalance the wheels and rotate them around. But nothing seem to fix it. Is there any I could to rule it is the inner CV joint?
can you sell merch please!!
Notification squad Have a Great weekend!🔥🔥🔥
I have a FWD car with a mechanical LSD but lately the passenger side wheel has started losing grip. Normally the car would pull towards the inside of the corner under acceleration due to the LSD but now it doesn't if it has to lean on the right side wheel. Also, when pulling out of intersections if under medium hard acceleration the wheel tends to hop whereas previously the car would just pull normally. Do you reckon it could be a similar issue or would it be more likely to be an issue with the LSD itself? The dealership keeps telling me the suspension is fine, which was my initial suspicion.
I have this problem. Also. If I go to a salvage yard how do I know axle I pick up isn't going to have the same issue?
Luck of the draw.
I check for looseness in the cup like I showed in the video. There should be no free play in the inner joint.
Raxles come with the damper.
HU!!!! I have the same vibration issues in my 2003 Accord.....coincidence maybe?!!?! Lol
Ive had such horrible issues with my car driving like complete shit after ive replaced EVERY PART IN THE SUSPENSION!!!! Ive boiled it down to the axles ive gotten 10s of alignments and wheel balances. its been a nightmare!!! I put some axles in recently and it drove smooth then started just hopping around at the slightest bump. Idk if theres some like bad bearing in my transaxle/transmission that causes too much play in the inner cv joint but from what ive seen that play is normal??? The only other part i havent replaced is inner tierod which can cause that shimmy movement but there was no play in them when i was inspecting them so i have no goddamn clue. Im bout to just tuck my tail and spend a couple thousand in the professional shop to have them troubleshoot it. -_- ive fixed every other car ive ever had and for some reason this 06 toyota matrix is a pain in the goddamn ass!!!!!!
I have a 2000 explorer and I'm getting vibration when I let go of the gas pedal but when I get back on the gas hard it goes away but if I ease into it makes it feel worse almost like death wobble could it be a cv axle?
If it's 4WD, check the u joints.
Next video Eric The Car Guy gets another 1993 Acura Vigor 👀
Were you thinking on making a short but then it went long?
Yes
The remanufactured units from A-1 Cardone were decent, but it's getting harder to find them. The new Chinesecheeseium units are garbage.
Greetings to turack my bro😂
I have a 02 Honda CR-V with over 250K miles on it and never had issues with vibration but the rubber booths were tore down so replaced the original CV shafts with an aftermarket set from ebay, SurTrack brand, it was about $120. I have put over 5K miles on it, have been running it with a 1.5 inch lift kit and bigger tires and have no CV shaft related vibrations. I haven't had the same luck with the aftermarket motor mounts thought.
Why the sudden change to portrait mode? Disappointing. Otherwise a valuable video, as always.
It was originally going to be a short but it was too long.
I dont see those counterweights on the parts diagrams for my crosstour but i do have a slight steering wheel vibration randomly at whatever speed it feels like and then sometimes its just gone and it doesnt pull to one side either. I recently did some front suspension refreshing, new lower control arm bushings and upper control arms. During that time i also checked everything else. Play in the wheel bearings, none. Play in the tie rods, none in or out and the joints were good. Lower ball joints were good, uppers were replaced as part of the arms. The only thing that im suspecting now is the axles, it is a 4wd one but its still a honda at heart and its up front, ive had these axles out and ive looked them over while i was doing my engine replacement and i didnt notice anything out of the ordinary. I had to replace the boot on the passengers side inner as i damaged it the first time i tried taking out that axle (that halfshaft and inner joint is very hard to separate on these cars and im guessing the regular 8th gen accord too, i just took the whole thing out as one piece). The axles dont click or anything but with it being almost 15 years old and 125k miles could it be them? I dont mind spending money on this car obviously but thats a big purchase to do at once
dad had a 68 coronet that backfired on the way to church
I ran into the same issue with my Accord. I went a step further with a digital caliper at all of the bearing surfaces - the aftermarket surfaces were off by a couple of thousandths (less) then the original I replaced. The $500 difference per axle with the genuine Honda part was worth the investment.
I wonder if this is my problem, had it for 15K miles on 09 Accord
Random vibration, almost a hum on long curves but not every time. Feel it in the floor boards and steering wheel.
Put it on stands and no tire movement indicating bearing.
Paid a local mechanic and he could not identify a problem, he refunded the money.
Honda dealer couldn't identify it and charged me $200.
No odd tire wear.
Problem is no salvage yard near me has axles with less than 200K on them.
Orielly does show new, not reconditioned ones
🤷♂️
Wheel bearings hummm
@Nic.V-117 ended up being intermediate shaft bearing
Why is it when car people start getting loads of followers they speed up their talking
Cup swap
Who films like this? Terrible picture. Film it normal for gods sake. Unwatchable