Hi Jimmie, I wanted to tell you that I have started to put my pewter items in my tumbler for 30 minutes to 1 hr or more and wow, I get a really nice polish/shine using a stainless steel media/shot. Best to you and Family, Doug
Another helpful hint... Pick up some 1/8", 3/16" or 1/4" diameter plastic rod or wood dowel. Chuck a length into your drill or drill press and use a file to taper the end of the rod into a cone shape, with a relatively blunt end. Hack off the "cone" and use that as a starter for your pour hole. With a more defined pour hole, you'll have an easier time of it, plus the coned forms can be reused. Also, for probably the 20th time (haven't read all the comments), pre-heating the molds help dramatically with ensuring successful pours. Also #2... If you don't need the durability of pewter, use "Wood's alloy". It's a Bismuth alloy that melts at about 165 degrees F (less than it takes to boil water). Great tutorial for beginners... Thanks for sharing.
Nice work on the mold making. Great tip on using the tape and rubber band to hold the flask together. Venting is kind of an art form. In sand casting you only get one shot per mold. The pattern is reusable and molds are easy to ram up but the time involved is a limited resource. Having a silicone mold looks like a much better method than the plaster I have used.
I use solder wire to create channels for air vents when I make a new mold. This removes the necessity of taking a razor blade to the silicone after it has cured. This method allows for multiple air vent holes to be routed from the bottom and sides of the mold cavity to the top of the mold, but away from the pour hole (which I also pre-make using a funnel shaped plug of Plasticine).
I used to work for a company were I made silicone molds for pewter. We used a slightly different process. We would make our molds in a circular shape and poor the pewter down the center. While doing this, we would spin the molds and use centrifugal force to force the pewter into the molds. We also used to powder the molds first before pouring. Can't remember if we used baby powder or chalk. The powder always gave a better result.
sparkimoto I saw a centrifuge set up in Halifax recently - it was in a shop that makes jewelry and giftware, really fascinating! Thanks for the tip on powder!
After cutting and sanding the edges take your pewter part and drop it in a vibrating tumbler like they use for ammo With crushed walnut shells ( use Zilla from pet store ) and a good amount of nu finish car wax Turn on and check back in 24 hours. They come out beautiful and shiny
I must apologize - there is a clip missing where I pour the second half of the mold - this was an editing error. I'm going to do another video soon and will be sure to cover that in detail.
Rather than cutting to much of a big opening in your mold. You can use a stir straw for like your coffee, etc. Cut just a piece of straw long enough so it comes close to the edge of your mold then cut your V groove for the spout the stir straw created only going down say half the length, so the pewter goes in better. But other than that looks great. Thanks for sharing.
Use a candle and smoke the mold I used to do lead sinkers in molds. If you use a lit candle and hold the mold above it the black sot will coat your mold Makes you mold look bad but works great
Is the video missing the part where you create the second half of the mold? How easy is it to remove the non-drying modeling clay? I would have liked to have seen that step in the video.
Jim could I use these to make custom size and custom shaped pendants for earrings and bracelets using alloy that has recessed and raised points in them to be painted by enamel? If I can do that do you know how I could get a prototype of my shapes made in order to be molded? Because I thought maybe 3-D printing or laser etching but I don’t know which one to use
Patty Cakes I’d have to see your specific design, but I know silicone molds are commonly used for jewelry. I’m not very savvy on 3D technology but it seems they can make anything you can imagine. Good luck!
Interesting question. I’m sure it would improve the mold but I’ve never used one. The silicone flows everywhere and I’ve had no quality issues with my castings.
Do you think this would work well for making anything with ball joint parts? Just a question for an idea that I had as I am going to try making molds like this when I start smelting myself
It is kind of a judgement call...for small pieces 1/2” is probably a good number. I’d maybe go a bit thicker as the size of the piece increases. And of course leave enough at the top for a good pour opening. Good luck!
Did i miss something? I saw you make the bottom with clay then poured the mold silicone on top of it, then when you took it apart you had top and bottom silicone. Did you leave out a part?
Joshua Poche wow I just reviewed and you are right there is a clip missing! After I poured the first half, I removed it, then flipped it over in the wood form, applied Vaseline to the exposed silicone surface, then poured the second half. My apologies and thanks for the comment.
Great demo of the process. Thank you. I just ordered Mold Max 60 for the first time and should start casting later this month, Can you tell me if gates and runners could be used with this setup? Would the molds be too cold if the mold is filled from below as the molten pewter rises to the top like some molds work with aluminum? A larger spout to pour into feeding the void and pushing out air toward the top? Actually, if you added a runner between the two cavities and poured it into one of the spouts it would fill them both and let the air escape or would the metal freeze up?
I’ve not tried that and haven’t seen it done with pewter...but you’d probably have a few freezes until things warm up. I’d be interested in learning more...
Sherry Sproul I'm glad it was of some value to you. You can get a pretty good idea of how much silicone to pour using the "rice method" once you get your pattern made. I demonstrate it in my first pewter casting video: th-cam.com/video/1ahqDMoLahU/w-d-xo.html
Jimmie great videos brother! I am casting some thick dense pieces and to allow to pewter to completely fill the mold I have to get it real hot. So hot the pewter is turning yellow and blue. Do you know any tricks to polish out the color in the castings or something I can soak it in to get back the pewter color? Thanks so much!
Pumpkintown Primitives have you tried to lightly sand the surface? Usually the discoloration is surface only...I use 220 grit, then polish on a buffing wheel...
Hello Jimmie. Thanks for uploading this nice video. What i dont get, how you make the secound (opposite) part??, but doesn’t shown in the video... comes out from the same box as two pieces, like poored in one shot.. Thanks for any advice!
Muotaman I made an editing error and omitted that piece. Here is a follow up video that shows that step more completely: th-cam.com/video/WPZdfL83qko/w-d-xo.html
pixelbat I've cast a few dozen pieces in each mold And have yet to wear one out. Having said that they do discolor over time and some fine detail can be lost. Thin areas will develop small cracks or tears. You can still cast, but more clean up of the casting is needed. I think keeping the pour temperature as low as possible extends the life of the molds. Good luck!
Didn't you kinda skip some steps? You went from creating one side of the mold (3:00) to both sides were already done. If I hadn't watched other folk's videos, I wouldn't have understood your video. You can do better.
@JimmiePorterAtStuartArts i appreciate your videos. If someone can't figure out what you did here, maybe being in the shop ain't for them. I thank you for the time you spent and the knowledge you are sharing.
How can I cast a part ( light housing ) for a Johnson care box . I am so lucky to even find one. .. it’s a very rare part . How can I show you the part .
Making the sprue after the mold cures is way better than what I tried with the clay in my recent vid! Thanks for all the tips!
Morgan Donner my pleasure - I've enjoyed watching your casting videos as well. You really do nice work!
Hi Jimmie,
I wanted to tell you that I have started to put my pewter items in my tumbler for 30 minutes to 1 hr or more and wow, I get a really nice polish/shine using a stainless steel media/shot.
Best to you and Family,
Doug
Doug Asay great info Doug...I’ve been looking at those tumblers myself....gonna try!
Another helpful hint... Pick up some 1/8", 3/16" or 1/4" diameter plastic rod or wood dowel. Chuck a length into your drill or drill press and use a file to taper the end of the rod into a cone shape, with a relatively blunt end. Hack off the "cone" and use that as a starter for your pour hole. With a more defined pour hole, you'll have an easier time of it, plus the coned forms can be reused.
Also, for probably the 20th time (haven't read all the comments), pre-heating the molds help dramatically with ensuring successful pours.
Also #2... If you don't need the durability of pewter, use "Wood's alloy". It's a Bismuth alloy that melts at about 165 degrees F (less than it takes to boil water).
Great tutorial for beginners... Thanks for sharing.
WHJeffB great tip!
WHJeffB thanks for the kind words!
Thanks Jimmie! I would like to try casting someday, so I find this info useful. Glad you got things all melty!
Also if you bring your mold up to temp ( pre heat ) your metal will not cool off so fast that’s why after several try’s you get good pours
Nice work on the mold making. Great tip on using the tape and rubber band to hold the flask together. Venting is kind of an art form. In sand casting you only get one shot per mold. The pattern is reusable and molds are easy to ram up but the time involved is a limited resource. Having a silicone mold looks like a much better method than the plaster I have used.
Old Sneelock's Workshop working with pewter is fun because of the low melt temp. Thanks for the comment!
That was very interesting. I wish they made a silicone that could withstand a silver pour. That looked pretty headache free except for the tweaking.
I use solder wire to create channels for air vents when I make a new mold. This removes the necessity of taking a razor blade to the silicone after it has cured. This method allows for multiple air vent holes to be routed from the bottom and sides of the mold cavity to the top of the mold, but away from the pour hole (which I also pre-make using a funnel shaped plug of Plasticine).
That is an excellent idea…!
Brilliant. Very helpful video and i love the robot idea xx
I used to work for a company were I made silicone molds for pewter. We used a slightly different process. We would make our molds in a circular shape and poor the pewter down the center. While doing this, we would spin the molds and use centrifugal force to force the pewter into the molds. We also used to powder the molds first before pouring. Can't remember if we used baby powder or chalk. The powder always gave a better result.
sparkimoto I saw a centrifuge set up in Halifax recently - it was in a shop that makes jewelry and giftware, really fascinating! Thanks for the tip on powder!
After cutting and sanding the edges take your pewter part and drop it in a vibrating tumbler like they use for ammo
With crushed walnut shells ( use Zilla from pet store ) and a good amount of nu finish car wax
Turn on and check back in 24 hours. They come out beautiful and shiny
edgotbait great tip!
Cool to see the process. Nice video
Hi there Good job have good.
Happy holidays to all
Great video Jim and have learnt from it, I will try some powder next time I cast some pewter.
Thanks for sharing and Cheers, Bram
Bram the Wadesmill woodturner thank you Bram - I'd love to hear your opinion as to whether the baby powder is helping quality. Be well!
Will do Jim !
Thanks…well done and very informative
Jimmie, on the mispour... after you pour, you can shake the mold slightly to facilitate the gas movement and make that part easier
I must apologize - there is a clip missing where I pour the second half of the mold - this was an editing error. I'm going to do another video soon and will be sure to cover that in detail.
lol I was wondering where that half went. I noticed you didn't take the clay off the other end and poured the mold max on the remaining side.
Thanks for the comment. I hope it was helpful!
You should pin this comment at the top.
Rather than cutting to much of a big opening in your mold. You can use a stir straw for like your coffee, etc. Cut just a piece of straw long enough so it comes close to the edge of your mold then cut your V groove for the spout the stir straw created only going down say half the length, so the pewter goes in better. But other than that looks great. Thanks for sharing.
Michael S Great tip - thanks I'll try that!
Than you!
Use a candle and smoke the mold
I used to do lead sinkers in molds. If you use a lit candle and hold the mold above it the black sot will coat your mold
Makes you mold look bad but works great
edgotbait interesting! I'll give that a try. Thanks for the tip!
Using lead for our masters was also a commonly used technique. Lead would pick up a lot more detail.
Is the video missing the part where you create the second half of the mold? How easy is it to remove the non-drying modeling clay? I would have liked to have seen that step in the video.
Yes it was an editing errror. I cover it much better in this vid: th-cam.com/video/WPZdfL83qko/w-d-xo.htmlsi=lAttrWLyJJvheVdE
Perfect! The other video was great! Why did you decide not to vent the doll hands?@@JimmiePorterAtStuartArts
Jim could I use these to make custom size and custom shaped pendants for earrings and bracelets using alloy that has recessed and raised points in them to be painted by enamel? If I can do that do you know how I could get a prototype of my shapes made in order to be molded? Because I thought maybe 3-D printing or laser etching but I don’t know which one to use
Patty Cakes I’d have to see your specific design, but I know silicone molds are commonly used for jewelry. I’m not very savvy on 3D technology but it seems they can make anything you can imagine. Good luck!
Y
does it require vaccum degarassor for removing bubbles ?
Interesting question. I’m sure it would improve the mold but I’ve never used one. The silicone flows everywhere and I’ve had no quality issues with my castings.
very nice ,thanks for sharing
Great info. Thanks
I don't know much about Mold Max 60, but could it be used for something like a tin-bismuth alloy?
Would putting aluminum in a silicone mold work? or does it have to be pewter?
The melt temperature for aluminum is well above the max working temp for silicone. Pewter or lead are good because they melt in the 400s °F...
What do you do with the melted pewter in the pot left over ?
3:07 Hi Jimmie. Did you omit a part of the process? I didn't see you remove the plasticine in order to pour the second side of the molds!
@@billsimpson2392 yes it was an editing error. I covered in more detail in a later video. Sorry!
I feel like I'm missing something. How did you do the back?...also does this work with aluminum?
It was an editing error...here is a better video: th-cam.com/video/WPZdfL83qko/w-d-xo.html
@@JimmiePorterAtStuartArts I already found that video and saved it after watching this one. Thanks!
Do you think this would work well for making anything with ball joint parts? Just a question for an idea that I had as I am going to try making molds like this when I start smelting myself
How thick should the rubber be off of the model? 1/2"?
It is kind of a judgement call...for small pieces 1/2” is probably a good number. I’d maybe go a bit thicker as the size of the piece increases. And of course leave enough at the top for a good pour opening. Good luck!
Did i miss something? I saw you make the bottom with clay then poured the mold silicone on top of it, then when you took it apart you had top and bottom silicone. Did you leave out a part?
Joshua Poche wow I just reviewed and you are right there is a clip missing! After I poured the first half, I removed it, then flipped it over in the wood form, applied Vaseline to the exposed silicone surface, then poured the second half. My apologies and thanks for the comment.
Great demo of the process. Thank you.
I just ordered Mold Max 60 for the first time and should start casting later this month,
Can you tell me if gates and runners could be used with this setup?
Would the molds be too cold if the mold is filled from below as the molten pewter rises to the top like some molds work with aluminum?
A larger spout to pour into feeding the void and pushing out air toward the top?
Actually, if you added a runner between the two cavities and poured it into one of the spouts it would fill them both and let the air escape or would the metal freeze up?
I’ve not tried that and haven’t seen it done with pewter...but you’d probably have a few freezes until things warm up. I’d be interested in learning more...
I love it , where can I find the items 😍
Could I do a pour with Lead using this same type of molding material?
Just be aware that lead melts at about 620F. Pewter and tin melt in the neighborhood of 450F. The silicone shown says that it is rated for 560F.
thanks for the instructional video, much appreciated! I wonder how much I need to make a 3 dimensional fish?
Sherry Sproul I'm glad it was of some value to you. You can get a pretty good idea of how much silicone to pour using the "rice method" once you get your pattern made. I demonstrate it in my first pewter casting video: th-cam.com/video/1ahqDMoLahU/w-d-xo.html
What kind of clay did u use ??
Excuse me, what kind of silicone material is this? Thank you. I need to buy some tests.
I guess you missed the title of the vid
Good day sir. what is the proper mixing of this materials?
Jimmie great videos brother! I am casting some thick dense pieces and to allow to pewter to completely fill the mold I have to get it real hot. So hot the pewter is turning yellow and blue. Do you know any tricks to polish out the color in the castings or something I can soak it in to get back the pewter color? Thanks so much!
Pumpkintown Primitives have you tried to lightly sand the surface? Usually the discoloration is surface only...I use 220 grit, then polish on a buffing wheel...
@@JimmiePorterAtStuartArts Thanks Jimmie I will try that! Thanks for your great content
Pumpkintown Primitives best of luck!
Hello Jimmie.
Thanks for uploading this nice video.
What i dont get,
how you make the secound (opposite) part??,
but doesn’t shown in the video...
comes out from the same box as two pieces, like poored in one shot..
Thanks for any advice!
Muotaman I made an editing error and omitted that piece. Here is a follow up video that shows that step more completely: th-cam.com/video/WPZdfL83qko/w-d-xo.html
With Mold Max 60, I have to pre-heat the molds before pouring. I find that pewter cools too quickly and doesn't flow well in a cold mold.
J Ashton great comment - I've found the same.
About how many pours you figure you can get out of a mold before it no longer gives good returns?
pixelbat I've cast a few dozen pieces in each mold And have yet to wear one out. Having said that they do discolor over time and some fine detail can be lost. Thin areas will develop small cracks or tears. You can still cast, but more clean up of the casting is needed. I think keeping the pour temperature as low as possible extends the life of the molds. Good luck!
Did you skip a step? What happened to the clay?
Yes there is a section of the video that is missing. I covered it better in the next pewter mood making video I did. My apologies.
Skipped the part of removing the clay for the first half of the mold.
T.J. Taylor I sure did - a total editing error! I'm going to make another video soon and I'll be sure to cover this in detail. Thanks for the comment.
That made me so confused! Good to know I didn't figure it out because I'm being stupid. XD
Bro what is the name of the silicone mold that you use?
Read the title of the video.
@@JimmiePorterAtStuartArts okay thanks bro
Thanks gave you a like a learnt a bit, but I reckon your pouring needs work, it should be steady and one action, anyway thanks
J&w
I've now made another video on two-part mold making - much greater detail. Be sure to check it out: th-cam.com/video/WPZdfL83qko/w-d-xo.html
I on a diet eating a hotdog
Thumbs up if this guy sounds like Hank Hill
Didn't you kinda skip some steps? You went from creating one side of the mold (3:00) to both sides were already done. If I hadn't watched other folk's videos, I wouldn't have understood your video. You can do better.
Thanks for your uplifting comment
You're very welcome!
@JimmiePorterAtStuartArts i appreciate your videos. If someone can't figure out what you did here, maybe being in the shop ain't for them. I thank you for the time you spent and the knowledge you are sharing.
How can I cast a part ( light housing ) for a Johnson care box . I am so lucky to even find one. .. it’s a very rare part . How can I show you the part .
Can you use this for plastic injection parts?