After shooting these caps and before you reload use a nipple pick or thin wire to clear the flash channels of any paper residue that could cause a misfire on the next loads. Thanks for the video
Thanks for the video! I got rid of the paper blank and used some cheap hairspray on top of the priming compound, I'm finding that you can use quite a lot of hairspray as long as you let everything dry, they seem pretty durable so far but further testing is required
I've recently got into muzzleloading and would love to produce my own #11 caps, good idea on the Hobby Lobby copper sheeting, will have to check that out. I've been reloading my own non corrosive primers with EPH20 and also H48 corrosive, anytime I've seen anyone using caps or match heads I think corrosive H48 (PrimeAll). The compound works excellent, I might as well use that since I'm cleaning up after black powder anyways. I found that wetting with 6:1 acetone shellac and using hemp rolling paper disc under the anvil. I couldn't imagine getting a 100% fire rate from dropping in a cap gun cap, strike anywhere matches or roll caps as is without refining it. Excited to learn more about the anatomy of a percussion cap so I can produce my own at 100% rate.
Thanks for all the test Mr Mike appreciate all your input. I haven't tried the super caps. Can't seem to find them here in the tropic. Had some trial and errors and what has worked 90% of the time for me is Armstrong mix (match powder with the some scratched up powder from box) I haven't done aluminum caps, I just use the same cap with a cap guard on my 1858 Pietta Remington. I wish I could find strike anywhere versions to experiment. Spent a whole Sunday making different batches like your tests, even poured my 4f in the cone... Armstrong mix try it!. Also read to seal the ingredients to try skin in a jar some fist aid remedy, but I have no clue what it is... Best wishes!
Thank You for your Comments. You, like me will not find any strike anywhere matches, they are no longer produced, so I am told. I also tried the matches and scraped the side on the box with that compound, not in my black powder guns, but in my small pistol primers and did not have great success. Michael
@@lamebeavertradingco.1642 I found the Matches last year at a local hardware store and tried them but without success. The Ring Caps and Roll Caps use Armstrong Mix but the amount is so small it takes 2 or 3 a little 4F Black Powder and they still are marginal with Pyrodex P but seem to work O'k with real Black Powder in my Pietta 44's.I took a small 1/4 inch drive socket and a drill bit with a flat end to size the aluminum cups down and make the impact surface flat for the hammer to strike. this seems to help keep the D.I.Y. Caps from falling off.
So here's my $10 question. I had samized based on old rangers channel on the chain fire video the potential that the loose folds of the aluminum hull, and excess priming compound could be the cause. In your experiments you have further tightened/sealed the folds better. Do you think that the increase sizing step improved this situation? For me I have come up with a brass die and a punch to do what you did with wood. My hope is that it not only crimps the folds better, and a light hammer strike will provide a better initial fold for a square fit of compound to cone surface contact. A second question. Thoughts on a light 3M aerosol spray adhesive coating before adding compound? Mountain man
Haven't actually measured them, but did look up the industry standards for aluminum cans, and my recollection is that the industries standard thickness is 3 thou, not 5 thou. Might explain your difficulty getting the caps onto the cones.
I found the dollar store caps fit on my Pietta 1858 Remington cylinder. Many guys try them and had no success with them setting off the powder. But they didn't remove the paper. Have you tried them?
So here's my $10 question. I had samized based on old rangers channel on the chain fire video the potential that the loose folds of the aluminum hull, and excess priming compound could be the cause. In your experiments you have further tightened/sealed the folds better. Do you think that the increase sizing step improved this situation? For me I have come up with a brass die and a punch to do what you did with wood. My hope is that it not only crimps the folds better, and a light hammer strike will provide a better initial fold for a square fit of compound to cone surface contact. A second question. Thoughts on a light 3M aerosol spray adhesive coating before adding compound? Mountain man
I think with any proof, the larger folds do hold powder, that's why I drop them tp loosen the powder that may get trapped in the folds.. I do believe re sizing helps some. AS I have stated I have a lot for factory caps, and mostly use the home made caps in my long guns. thank you
Kind Thanks Mike! You always have good solid info that’s much appreciated! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
After shooting these caps and before you reload use a nipple pick or thin wire to clear the flash channels of any paper residue
that could cause a misfire on the next loads.
Thanks for the video
Great Information ! Thank you for doing all the legwork, and posting the results .
Thanks for the video! I got rid of the paper blank and used some cheap hairspray on top of the priming compound, I'm finding that you can use quite a lot of hairspray as long as you let everything dry, they seem pretty durable so far but further testing is required
WOW 😍😍😍😍😍👍👍👍👍 💯💯💯
I've recently got into muzzleloading and would love to produce my own #11 caps, good idea on the Hobby Lobby copper sheeting, will have to check that out. I've been reloading my own non corrosive primers with EPH20 and also H48 corrosive, anytime I've seen anyone using caps or match heads I think corrosive H48 (PrimeAll). The compound works excellent, I might as well use that since I'm cleaning up after black powder anyways. I found that wetting with 6:1 acetone shellac and using hemp rolling paper disc under the anvil. I couldn't imagine getting a 100% fire rate from dropping in a cap gun cap, strike anywhere matches or roll caps as is without refining it. Excited to learn more about the anatomy of a percussion cap so I can produce my own at 100% rate.
Appreciate all the info n cautions.
Thanks for the loading advice.
Thanks for all the test Mr Mike appreciate all your input.
I haven't tried the super caps. Can't seem to find them here in the tropic. Had some trial and errors and what has worked 90% of the time for me is Armstrong mix (match powder with the some scratched up powder from box) I haven't done aluminum caps, I just use the same cap with a cap guard on my 1858 Pietta Remington.
I wish I could find strike anywhere versions to experiment.
Spent a whole Sunday making different batches like your tests, even poured my 4f in the cone... Armstrong mix try it!.
Also read to seal the ingredients to try skin in a jar some fist aid remedy, but I have no clue what it is...
Best wishes!
Thank You for your Comments. You, like me will not find any strike anywhere matches, they are no longer produced, so I am told. I also tried the matches and scraped the side on the box with that compound, not in my black powder guns, but in my small pistol primers and did not have great success. Michael
@@lamebeavertradingco.1642 I found the Matches last year at a local hardware store and tried them but without success. The Ring Caps and Roll Caps use Armstrong Mix but the amount is so small it takes 2 or 3 a little 4F Black Powder and they still are marginal with Pyrodex P but seem to work O'k with real Black Powder in my Pietta 44's.I took a small 1/4 inch drive socket and a drill bit with a flat end to size the aluminum cups down and make the impact surface flat for the hammer to strike. this seems to help keep the D.I.Y. Caps from falling off.
Thanks for the safety tip.
Thank you so much
So here's my $10 question. I had samized based on old rangers channel on the chain fire video the potential that the loose folds of the aluminum hull, and excess priming compound could be the cause. In your experiments you have further tightened/sealed the folds better. Do you think that the increase sizing step improved this situation? For me I have come up with a brass die and a punch to do what you did with wood. My hope is that it not only crimps the folds better, and a light hammer strike will provide a better initial fold for a square fit of compound to cone surface contact.
A second question. Thoughts on a light 3M aerosol spray adhesive coating before adding compound?
Mountain man
Haven't actually measured them, but did look up the industry standards for aluminum cans, and my recollection is that the industries standard thickness is 3 thou, not 5 thou. Might explain your difficulty getting the caps onto the cones.
I always start with one drop of nitroglycerin in my caps always fire and go bang every time guaranteed.😮😮😮
i used magnum #11 with slow ffg n blank wads.....seemed weak n quiet?...maybe too much primer force???
I found the dollar store caps fit on my Pietta 1858 Remington cylinder. Many guys try them and had no success with them setting off the powder. But they didn't remove the paper. Have you tried them?
Any advantage to using copper?
Not that I can see.
you screwed my secret i bought a ton from amazon. and they work better than the copper ones.
So here's my $10 question. I had samized based on old rangers channel on the chain fire video the potential that the loose folds of the aluminum hull, and excess priming compound could be the cause. In your experiments you have further tightened/sealed the folds better. Do you think that the increase sizing step improved this situation? For me I have come up with a brass die and a punch to do what you did with wood. My hope is that it not only crimps the folds better, and a light hammer strike will provide a better initial fold for a square fit of compound to cone surface contact.
A second question. Thoughts on a light 3M aerosol spray adhesive coating before adding compound?
Mountain man
I think with any proof, the larger folds do hold powder, that's why I drop them tp loosen the powder that may get trapped in the folds.. I do believe re sizing helps some. AS I have stated I have a lot for factory caps, and mostly use the home made caps in my long guns. thank you
Women's hair spray is a pretty good adhesive for the caps.