Just by way of FYI - aluminum beverage cans have a "plastic" coating on the inside and, of course, the paint on the outside. Sanding one side (or both if you want) to remove it helps adhesion greatly.
Your mixtures, left to right, are Potassium Chlorate, Antimony Trisulfide, Sulfur, and ..probably ground glass. Measuring by volume will work, but measuring by weight is far superior for doing chemistry like this. The first 3 are really all you need, but the glass powder adds surfaces for it to get smashed between. Actually, you can get away with just the KCL03 and S, but the Antimony Trisulfide makes it a little bit hotter. You definitely want to mix this one small batch at a time. It's pretty much the exact opposite of making fireworks--you're creating something inherently unstable and shock sensitive, so work in very, very small quantities so you keep your fingers and eyebrows!
If Prime-All is H-48 or a variation thereof...the ratios I received by weight seem off,. However, I haven't weighed what the "volumetric" L/S dipper throws yet For H-48 the instructions are different. Prime-all may be less sensitive. I have both, but haven't messed with them yet. Prime All (if all 68g can be used - 68g is about 1050 grains. At .3 grains of primer per cap = 3500 caps. Potassium Chlorate__(27g) 2L Antimony Trisulfide_(20g) 1L Sulfur______________(13g) 1S Ground Glass________ (8g) 1S H-48 ($45-$60) will do 81,000 pistol caps) (33 grain batches - 100 caps) Instructions are more stringent than prime-all. Don't attempt H-48 without the proper instructions. Potassium Chlorate__(17gr) Antimony Trisulfide__(9gr) Sulfur_______________(3gr) Ground Glass________(4gr) Baking Soda_________(0.2gr) Helps stabalize and extend shelf life. Aluminum Powder_____(0.2gr) Optional Edit: added H-48 video link - th-cam.com/video/ybRhewRS9o4/w-d-xo.html
@stevenhard3961 oh there’s no doubt. In modern times it’s is the hobby. But my guess is that in 1865 people on TH-cam said black powder would never fade. They are related…black powder is smokeless powders grandfather. There will be a next over smokeless someday, the smokeless will be the hobby lol.
I use duco cement glue mixed with acetone works great go bang every time and you can't get it to crumble and fall out of the cap the duco cement is a nitrocellulose glue so it actually makes them a little hotter
There are pairs of tweezers out there that are "normally closed" meaning you squeeze them to open them up. I think those would be ideal to hold caps while filling,
Great suggestion! Great for people whose grip strength isn't as good as it used to be, or have other fine motor skill issues with fingers and thumbs. My late father used these tweezers as part of his stamp collecting hobby. Can find them as "reverse-action tweezers" and they're very affordable and come in a variety of styles for different purposes. Some have the points at a 45° angle, or even a 90° angle, and some even come with a weighted stand they can clamp into to hold parts at any angle. Used a lot in jewellry, watch making, crafting, and small electronics work, or any kind of precision work.
I used to build models so have multiple pairs. I suggest getting the ones that can be attached to a base making it like a 3rd hand. I have hand tremors so it helps a lot. They are made for soldering I believe and called reverse tweezers.
Preach it brother...!! The name of the game is get out there and burn some powder and do what it takes to supply your cap needs. Your method looks easy to do. Thank for sharing my friend...
I mix duco cement with acetone and put a drop in them. I have also made the caps from double layer aluminum can as well as using brass sheeting and they all worked. So far they have all fired without fail but I recently found some #11 caps at a gas station so I picked up a lot. But it is nice having the back up option of making my own. I also cut off a piece of straw for putting primer in the caps. I keep the caps I made in a candy tin and haven't lost any of the powder from bouncing around.
If your in a toy store look,and see if they sell the red plastic caps meant for a later model cap gun. I use them on my Ruger old Army,and they work fine.
this makes me wonder how the early pioneers moving west maintained the ability to harvest game along the way. no refrigeration and no time to preserve the meat. so it had to be harvested daily and consumed. since cabalas did not exist nor online supply sources this would have the people bringing a lot of supplies or having to carry/source raw materials along the way. its hard to believe a entire continebt was settled and defended with this tech. now imagine standing at your tailgate with an oil lamp making caps and casting lead... then tracking down some dinner. harvesting it dragging back to camp and cleaning it. then some ones got to cook it. sounds like a hard life compared to todays instant gratification at the drive through
No doubt. I love reading about that period. There’s some interesting documents out there about this and lists of packing supplies for the journey. Caps, powder and lead were big parts of it…so was salt. They salted and dried meat but also had to eat it soon. Lots of beans and coffee on those lists. I’ll tell you…those generations were TOUGH. Most of us would be in trouble. Thanks.
I have one of those tools which I bought about 30 years ago. Had no idea anyone was still making them. It came with a little hole puncher, that you used to punch the centers out of roll caps to stuff in the aluminum cap. It always seemed kind of hokey but was much less tedious than what you show here. I snapped a few of them and they seemed to work, but I don't remember if I ever did any actual shooting with them.
I don't know if it's still around, but years ago I remember seeing percussion nipples that were made to use shotgun primers. Of course those may be in short supply as well.
I have a good time making caps and I sit at my work bench and make 50-60 at a time. The cost of the cap maker pays for itself when you consider the ridiculous price of a tin of caps. I’ve even saved my spent musket caps, cleaned then out with a tweezers and a little steel wool and used this same method to recharge them. It worked fine. It’s easy cutting a pop can to make a sheet, as you show and stamp out caps. And as you point out, sometimes a few fail but it’s very satisfying to make your own and fun to boot. I did take a thin board and drill a dozen holes or more that the cap will fit snug with a little push that holds the cap firmly as you prime them up. Make 3-4 boards a 1/4” thick and you can fill your tin. Thanks Kindly and Many Blessings with a mess of good Shootin! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
@ It sure is and I even thought about making some black powder but I have a decent supply right now. I do love making caps and paper cartridges. You just can’t beat that historic black powder. Sometimes in my shop when I have a strong desire to drive a bit of lead out of a barrel, I put a tiny bit of black powder on my wood stove and poof! Ahhhhhhh, the purfume is lovely! I enjoy your channel so much because of your love of black powder. The whole process connects us to our history and our Ancestors and deep appreciation for the Soldiers of our Revolution and Civil War. I restored my 1829 N. Starr 69 cal. Army issue musket. It was a flint lock originally but converted to cap and ball in the 1840s and used in the Civil War. I like to shoot it and keep it in good shape. When you blast that big old lead ball out of that it makes me amazed that anyone survived that war. All those Boys were tough as cur nails! So Thanks Again and Many Blessings! DaveyJO in Lancaster County Pennsylvania
Great to see how others do this... Prime-All is not available here in NZ, so I disassemble plastic toy caps by crushing them gently with long nosed pliers. Now and again the cap will fire if I am a bit rough, but no harm done. I make cap bodies with the same die as yours, and have made a tiny copper spoon to put the powder in. I top it with a small paper disk and a drop of clear nail polish diluted about 3 to 1 with acetone. The disk helps to keep the compound in the cap during handling. Since using the disks I have had no caps that had the compound fall out. I did make a "finishing" die that fits in my reloading press to compact the walls of the cap bodies before filling. I found that this improves the caps for holding in my capping 'stars' and that they cling to the nipples better. It's worth the few seconds per cap to run them through the die. The plastic caps I have actually have the formula on the backing card; they are made from red phosphorus and potassium chlorate. They certainly go off with a heck of a bang. Like you, I found that filling the caps only about 1/4 full is best for good results. Each percussion cap takes the powder from about three plastic caps, so I get about 48 from each $2.90 card of 144 shots.... about 6c a cap. Commercial caps here used to be 20c each, but they are more than that now... 25 or 30c depending on the vendor..... yes, $30 a hundred!. So apart from the time factor (I am 81 now so have the time) the home made caps make economic sense. Some use roll caps I see, but these seem to be a prohibited import to NZ now...... sigh....
Thanks for being honest about the cap reliability. I tried this a few years ago and hated doing it--well the part of filling the cap with mixture. I'm about ready to try it again but will only use those caps for casual practice. I will save my Remington # 10's for participation in Cowboy Action Matches.
Prime-all works well for me. I load the caps, insert a disc of nitrated cigarette paper, use a drilled board to hold the caps and spray with hair spray. My problem has been finding suitable material for punching out musket caps.
You can go to Hobby Lobby or a local hobby shop and get a roll of .005 in. 36 gauge copper sheeting. The package does not say how long the sheeting is but it's 12 in. wide. It has to be 3 ft. long. You can make a lot from it.
Very good instruction and I Thank You Kindly! I do have a capper but need to get more primer. It also looks like you have a Lovely collection of revolvers. And to myself as well, I say you can’t beat percussion revolvers and muskets! I always say that its like shooting history. My daughter visited from Oregon last Sept and our tradition is to visit Gettysburg whenever we can. I have an old Army issue 69 cal smooth bore I restored and before our visit to Gettysburg, we went to the range. She shot the musket, my 1860 Army 44 and 51 Navy 36. She liked the 36 best. But shooting these guns give you a deep appreciation for all the hardships the Soldiers endured and being grateful that you’re not on the wrong end of a lead ball or Minnie! Thanks Again, Many Blessings and Good Shootin! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
Thank you. I love your tradition. The historical feeling is what got me into these revolvers in the first place. I love trying to step into the shoes of our forefathers and mothers to get a sense of their lives…through the firearms, clothes and sometimes camping. I also own some cap lock and flintlock rifles that do the same thing. Someday I’ll get a sharps! Thanks again. I love visiting Gettysburg.
I got this kit in the mail today & the #10 cap maker...glad I got the real metal cap maker and not one of the cheaper 3d printed ones. Also! I got my 1858 army in the mail too! I'm like a kid on Christmas morning! It is a lot larger & heavier than I thought it would be...just to see I tried one of the plastic caps that come with toy cap guns and it fit snugly and fired...ok ok enough rambling gonna watch this video again and make my 1st little batch of caps! Thanks again for the videos
If nothing else those plastic caps are a way to just have fun with the revolver without it being loaded. Maybe it's just because I'm a kid stuck in a mans body.
Thank you, i just started doing this and i found that using a paint brush to mix the powder works well and the back of it works well as the matchstick tamper.
I've made these and they work well, I sand the aluminum for better adhesion and use acetone, after the 5 minutes I tamp them down then put a drop of duct cement in them, none have failed yet? I also have used this mix for recharging musket caps. Great video on making them 👍
The kit I had some years ago used toy cap gun caps same idea whack out the body use a paper hole punch, knock out the primer from the cap tape, push it in, worked fine cap gun caps are getting hard to find also.
Very interessting ! I have allways used matches heads& ' box-stuff" ( phosphorus)mix , but they are not allways available. Only small quantities.Even so one time it has blowed up and the plate below got cracked in flying pieces .Nobody got hurt..I didnt even wear glasses ..That was a lesson.. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Im experimenting with FA-7O primer compound ..it was used in US military WW2 ammunition and is probably as good as a binary type mix can get. It works great in percussion caps and us very cheap to make. Lead thiocyanate seems exotic but its farly easy to prepare.
Hairspray often has some flammable (explosive even) chemicals similar to propane in them. I wonder if you might have some unique chemical setup using that brand of a hairspray as a sealer.
I’ve been making my own caps with the 22lr reloader cap maker and prime all for a couple years they work great. I have, however, streamlined the operation. I use an arbor press, and I put the slotted die in the top (ram) of the press. That way the die can stay hooked to the press, and the punch can get picked up and the cap knocked out after making it. Using the arbor press makes it effortless to punch out a lot of caps in a little time. I also use copper foil instead of aluminum. I think it works a bit better at staying on the nipples. Now, to make the prime-all powder they recommend crushing all the little clumps of the 2L powder. I took a 3/8” piece of hardwood dowel about 3” long. On one end, I epoxied a little glass craft pebble (the kind with a flat bottom) on the other end of the dowel, I whittled it down to the size of a kitchen matchstick. When I measure the 2L powder, I put it in a concave bottom inside glass shot glass. That with the glass pebble pestle, I crush down into the shot glass mortar the 2L powder. I then proceed to measure the rest of the powders in the mix and stir them up with the little measuring scoop. (Don’t crush them together with pestle after all the powders are added, or it may go bang💥). After mixing up, I dispense into caps which perfectly fit into a small pistol primer tray (that comes with the primers when you buy them). I have found a little disposable protective cone (that doctors use when they’re looking in your ear) to be the perfect funnel for priming your caps. After all the caps are primed, I use a glass medicine bottle with a glass dropper to dispense a 4:1 solution of acetone and Duco cement. 1-2 drops per cap. After 5-8 minutes tamp it down with the whittled end of the pestle. Let dry 24 H. And enjoy 🎉
Absolutely! I am an artisan, blacksmith/weldor/sculptor and (obviously) BP enthusiast, so half the fun of what I do is the process of getting there. Theres never nothing to do in my life. Youre welcome to share everything I said. Happy capping! - Jon
Love the video! If I can learn to do something for myself so that I'm not reliant on others, it's always a win. New subscriber amd I'm looking forward to more!🤘
I for one would like to know what is in each bag. It would be nice to be able to source your own materials once you have the punch and you've already used up the bags.
I have just found your channel the last week or so. I'm new to all black powder firearms and I love it. I have the molds for my 50 rifle, and also for my 44 ball and 36 ball. I also cast for all my smokeless weapons. My 45acp 230grain ball , 40 s&w, 9mm, 380, and 38. I was wondering, If I could use the cast 45 (.452) bullet in my 44 cap and ball pistol. I think it is (.452)?
So…as I read it as long as it’s soft lead probably yes. The smallest round I would use is 451. If it’s 452 than you are ok by my knowledge. Needs to shave a ring of to ensure tight seal in chamber. I don’t see why not at 452. I wouldn’t any smaller.
@williamcastleberry7338 I've shot some .452 SWC I cast for my 1911 in my 1858. Worked just fine and was fun. A bit more difficult to load and less accurate than a ball. They're pure lead in both firearms, I powder coat them for the 1911
Remember those hand held hold punches for paper..not the ones that make 3 holes in paper for a binder but just the one hole...I can imagine this being made similar..you could just punch a bunch of holes and then empty out the new caps afterwards
Made the caps like you did in the video. The hairspray wanted to bead up on top of the primer "dust"...I mixed 50/50 hairspray & denatured alcohol together and that seemed to soak in right away...see tomorrow if it holds good...made a bullet with a mold too..having a blast and haven't even got to shoot yet
If you get yourself a pair of surgical type forceps they might be easier for you to use than twizzers to pick up your caps. I used them for fly fishing. You can lock them in place once you pick something up and not drop the cap.
I have taken up using cap gun caps, though I also use aluminum cans to make the cap body. Excellent showing, solid sub from me, on gun channel to another.
Interesting video, but I'm not sure being dependent on a commercial supplier for undisclosed chemical components puts folks any more "in control" during a shortage than being dependent on any other kind of component supplier. Any plans for a video on how to extract the chemicals from common household products? ;-)
I hear you on this…but at least with this you can get a couple thousand out of a 25$ set of primers components. That video on extraction is WAY above my pay grade! lol. Thanks
@@CapBallFanatic-gb3jb thanks for the reply. Come to think of it, even aside from the cost, just having another option during a shortage is a good thing. More options=more better. Thanks again. I'm just starting to look into cap and ball, so I'll check out a few more of your vids.
You can get potassium chlorate from an electrolytic cell, extracting from salt substitute. Sulfur is readily available; you can grind glass in a ball mill. Antimony Trisulfide is the tricky part--it comes straight from the ground as Stibnite, but unless you're mining and grinding it yourself, just buy yourself a pound from an online supplier and you'll never run out in this lifetime.
I've tried the toy caps before and it didnt seem to work, but I saw a video recently of someone else doing it and it worked just fine. I'm gonna try some different toy caps just for fun. I thought ahead and ordered an entire case before of the real #11 and #10s. Just keep checking midway and eventually youll get them.
The toy plastic caps didn’t work for me. I’ve had up and down success with the roll caps. You got it brother…pay attention and sooner or later you’ll get some!
I always wondered if cutting the charge out of cap pistol caps would work, 60 years ago I would load cap pistol cartridges with fire cracker powder and BOOM . Push a plastic bullet at a velocity that would make the pigs squeal and run when it hit them in the butt .
J-Stone, I Found a better answer because you used hairspray. Why wait buddy? I was way SUCCESSFUL using Liquid Skin, a liquid band-aid! That stuff comes with a brush that puts a perfect drop on your filled cap, and, here's the BONUS. It only takes 40 seconds to dry and the caps are ready. This stuff dries FAST with seconds. The most common name is (New Skin,) and it's denatured and highly flammable, but it coats the cap perfect. I even beat the cap on the table and nothing came out. But, Do they ever go BANG. I mean BANG, but the cap is still in tact and easily removed. J, I was so excited to share this with you I almost peed my pants.
@@CapBallFanatic-gb3jb By the way, I immediately gently still used the wooden match pushing it down. This stuff dries extremely fast but it seals that cap like crazy. I remembered that product from years ago, when I put it on an underwater shotgun primers that I used to kill invasive carp in a lake I managed. Can't wait for you to give it a try. You'll lose your addiction to your wife's hairspray. Be careful though buddy, the fumes in that bottle are very strong.
I have a guess what the ingredients are, but I'm pretty sure youtube would rather I not say directly. The first 3 make a more sensitive variation on black powder, very much not recommended for larger batches. The last is a binder.
THe original percussion cap makeing kit was designed for roll caps. The problem is that the design of roll caps has changed so the new style roll caps will not work.
I agree Arthritis Sucks getting old has it's drawbacks. Actually the Yellow Chemical is Dextrin a glue made from Corn Starch used to hold the mixed compound together. I get better results without the Dextrin and using a 4 to 1 mix of Acetone and Duco Cement to hold it all together. Duco Cement is Nitro Cellulose the same Chemical in Single Base Smokeless Gun Powder so it also makes the caps stronger. With my Cap Maker Die I was having a lot of Torn Caps so I Polished the sharp corners and I use a Propane Torch to Anneal the Aluminum or Copper Sheet before I make the cups.This almost eliminates the torn Cap issue . Without the Duco the Prime All mixes is very poor with Pyrodex P which I bought several pounds of during the Biden Pandemic . I've tried Hair Spray but results weren't satisfactory.
I understand that those caps are corrosive, is that your experience? I suppose it’s not a big deal as the revolver needs to be cleaned anyway. Thanks for demonstrating.
I’ve not found that. I think what gets folks saying that is they leave a yellowish-orange residue. But not sure that means they are corrosive. Hear that a lot about pyrodex and I’ve found that false too… but like you say…I clean within 24 hours so I may not know. Thanks.
Everything to do with the black powder sport is corrosive. If you're the sort who only likes to clean your guns once every year or when the shells stop extracting, black powder is not for you.
They are--potassium chlorate is hygroscopic, and it will wreck the brass used in cartridges. Just clean your weapon after use, and if you're making field-expedient primers for cartridges, get 'em in the wet tumbler as soon as you get back from the range.
Get a good nipple wrench. Ubertis sometimes are hard to get out the first time. But once they are out you put some anti sieze grease on em. I also only put em back finger tight and they stay fine. I’d say look for a Ted cash ratchet nipple wrench. About 20 bucks and it gives the best leverage. They have em at Dixie gun works and a few other places. Sheet copper? For percussion caps?
Just got the kit and the directions seem strange when it mentions using an "old anvil"??? 9. Use the small end of the scooper and fill funnel to fill primer approximately 2/3 of the way up with powder mixture. *10. Put old Anvil on top of powder (center and level)* 11. Now, simply, add 1 drop of 55 Hardening agent. 12. Let dry completely (approximately 24 hours) 13. Now you are ready to reload.
@@CapBallFanatic-gb3jb I know. Strange. It's the Sharpshooter 22LR Reloader kit. It also has a funnel and hardening liquid (I guess vs using acetone or hairspray). I'll just watch your vids and others. Thanks. ✌
@williewasahippie the funnel would help load primer into caps a lot if it’s a small one and try the hardening liquid. It might do the trick. Compare it to hairspray and acetone.
@@CapBallFanatic-gb3jb Will do! I'll try to report back sometime. Maybe, I'll upload a vid on my own channel. However, my channel is motovlogging. Worried my channel will get taken down if I ever post "anything" gun-related!!! ☮
I just got a fairly nice CVA Apollo 50Cal,.NO the S/N is NOT in the defect list,Im trying to find percussion caps for it,I have found a page that says #11,as on Amazon,but two review say they didnt fit the guns they had,but didnt list which gun they had,I would like to know if you know which cap fit this gun and where to buy them.
I am unfamiliar with the firearm. If it takes regular #11 I know cabelas and midway have them in stock. If it takes musket caps those I’m told are really hard to get. I’m sorry I’m not more help.
Excellent! Now…how are the Japanese going to make cars if we use up all the beer cans ? 😅😅 Do get mad guys , I sometimes can’t resist a little humor. The best muzzleloaders - target guys I know have a hard time accepting a new item to add to their program. If you’re old tyme- reenactor - rendezvous type guy, home made stuff should be a priority. I saw a tv documentary about Chinese people who were disarmed, and live out in the country, the CCP lets them have a few traditional flintlocks for ceremonies and such. They have no black powder suppliers. Hardwood charcoal, sulphur, and one more ingredient and they make their own black powder. They way all people did , before midway usa and other suppliers. Suppliers are great . Self sufficiency is next level living. Make it all at home and live a good life.👍
99% alcohol mixed 10:1 with duco cement makes a good binder/sealer. Try omitting the off white powder (the beige one not the yellow or white), together reliability is near 99%
@@chairzombie8378 It's probably parlon or nitrocellulose flakes. Which...you can make your own nitrocellulose by dissolving ping-pong balls (or smokeless powder--great use if you had to empty a bunch of sketchy reloads) in acetone. I'd omit that #4 powder and add the same quantity in finely ground glass, to ensure reliable ignition.
They can look ugly. Maybe a different can. Some use thin copper sheeting maybe .005 I think. But you have to shape them a bit with your fingers. It’s a practice thing. Good luck. They will get better but they do look a bit jagged and different.
My problem with home made caps is they dont come out nice and round like store bought, therefore they wont work in my Ted Cash capper. I would think that after 200 years someone somewhere should have the know-how and or be able to make nice round caps that fit in capper. I use to use Remington's and they worked nice but now they have stopped making caps, now I'm stuck with two choices, CCI and RWS, neither are as good fitting as Remington's was......
I hear you. I have good luck with RWs. Check cabelas. They have had new Remington 10 in lately. I’ve also seen them in other places. They might. Be back
@@CapBallFanatic-gb3jb Where I am in ME, Cabalas dont have Rems in stock, but they have NO-11 online, but thats extra $25.00 Haz-Mat. Also, the last time I bought Rem 11, they was to loose on my 1851 navy, but 10 fit great., Right now I'm leaning to RWS, I have CCI-11, they barely hold on my Tresso niples, the NO 10s was to small, it's a headache......
@@CapBallFanatic-gb3jb What you think of Pietta 1858 Remington Navy Black Powder Revolver - .36 Caliber? I like my 1858 Rem in 44 cal, I hardley ever had cap jam issues with it, but now I become addicted to 36 cal, I still get the bang without so much kick, I became soft in my old age.....
No. There isn’t! I use #11 caps a lot. About 2 months ago I put a video out on the cap shortage and I talk about that fact. But…I shoot CCI 11 and RWS 1075 all the time. You’ll just have one fall off once in a while. No big deal. Fire away. Watch that vid if you can.
Nope. I haven’t ever. Which is why I’m suspicious of the idea that most chain fires come from nipple end and loose or bent caps! These are the definition of that. Just my opinion
Yeah just don't leave them in your guns of the West Capper for any amount of time otherwise it stretches them out and they don't hold the regular craps properly
Just by way of FYI - aluminum beverage cans have a "plastic" coating on the inside and, of course, the paint on the outside. Sanding one side (or both if you want) to remove it helps adhesion greatly.
Didn’t know that! Thanks
Get you a thin piece of lathe wood, drill holes along it so the caps just fit in. Makes handling them so much easier. Have you a good day.
I’ve thought of that and if I get to having to produce a bunch I will try that! Thank you!
@@CapBallFanatic-gb3jb A board from an old mouse trap is perfect!
Great idea..so if the mixture of the powder makes enough for 20 make it hold 20...I'm picturing it..and yes...a mousetrap wood..thx!
I made one but made it from a thin aluminum plate
I'd do aluminum or even delrin B4 wood but great idea!
Your mixtures, left to right, are Potassium Chlorate, Antimony Trisulfide, Sulfur, and ..probably ground glass. Measuring by volume will work, but measuring by weight is far superior for doing chemistry like this. The first 3 are really all you need, but the glass powder adds surfaces for it to get smashed between.
Actually, you can get away with just the KCL03 and S, but the Antimony Trisulfide makes it a little bit hotter.
You definitely want to mix this one small batch at a time. It's pretty much the exact opposite of making fireworks--you're creating something inherently unstable and shock sensitive, so work in very, very small quantities so you keep your fingers and eyebrows!
Thank you! That’s interesting. I’ve only mixed a double batch occasionally. That’s great to know!
@@CapBallFanatic-gb3jb Double batch is fine. It's when people get the bright idea to make half a kilo of stuff that the fingers start flying!
If Prime-All is H-48 or a variation thereof...the ratios I received by weight seem off,. However, I haven't weighed what the "volumetric" L/S dipper throws yet For H-48 the instructions are different. Prime-all may be less sensitive. I have both, but haven't messed with them yet.
Prime All (if all 68g can be used - 68g is about 1050 grains. At .3 grains of primer per cap = 3500 caps.
Potassium Chlorate__(27g) 2L
Antimony Trisulfide_(20g) 1L
Sulfur______________(13g) 1S
Ground Glass________ (8g) 1S
H-48 ($45-$60) will do 81,000 pistol caps) (33 grain batches - 100 caps) Instructions are more stringent than prime-all. Don't attempt H-48 without the proper instructions.
Potassium Chlorate__(17gr)
Antimony Trisulfide__(9gr)
Sulfur_______________(3gr)
Ground Glass________(4gr)
Baking Soda_________(0.2gr) Helps stabalize and extend shelf life.
Aluminum Powder_____(0.2gr) Optional
Edit: added H-48 video link - th-cam.com/video/ybRhewRS9o4/w-d-xo.html
@dbod9815 hmmmm. You may be above my pay grade here…but I’m willing to look into it! Thanks
I use small rifle primers and plastic tube. I insert the primer into a cut to length tube and fit it on to thd the nipple.
They'll come back... We all know, smokeless is a passing fad anyway...😁
Yea. That’s right! Just a 130 year fad lol
Funny, but only kinda. I can make black powder, nitrocellulose, kinda, not so much.
As far as not being able to find smokeless probably. Making BP is MUCH easier than nitro lol.
Smokeless will never fade as it is not a fan but is a necessity. Black
Powder is the fad or hobby.
@stevenhard3961 oh there’s no doubt. In modern times it’s is the hobby. But my guess is that in 1865 people on TH-cam said black powder would never fade. They are related…black powder is smokeless powders grandfather. There will be a next over smokeless someday, the smokeless will be the hobby lol.
I use duco cement glue mixed with acetone works great go bang every time and you can't get it to crumble and fall out of the cap the duco cement is a nitrocellulose glue so it actually makes them a little hotter
There are pairs of tweezers out there that are "normally closed" meaning you squeeze them to open them up. I think those would be ideal to hold caps while filling,
I’m gonna look for some! Thanks. Never heard of them.
Yes I have seen those... good idea! 🙂
Great suggestion! Great for people whose grip strength isn't as good as it used to be, or have other fine motor skill issues with fingers and thumbs. My late father used these tweezers as part of his stamp collecting hobby.
Can find them as "reverse-action tweezers" and they're very affordable and come in a variety of styles for different purposes. Some have the points at a 45° angle, or even a 90° angle, and some even come with a weighted stand they can clamp into to hold parts at any angle. Used a lot in jewellry, watch making, crafting, and small electronics work, or any kind of precision work.
I used to build models so have multiple pairs. I suggest getting the ones that can be attached to a base making it like a 3rd hand. I have hand tremors so it helps a lot. They are made for soldering I believe and called reverse tweezers.
You might also consider Locksmith pinning tweezers as they grip small tubular pins very well.
Preach it brother...!! The name of the game is get out there and burn some powder and do what it takes to supply your cap needs. Your method looks easy to do. Thank for sharing my friend...
I mix duco cement with acetone and put a drop in them. I have also made the caps from double layer aluminum can as well as using brass sheeting and they all worked. So far they have all fired without fail but I recently found some #11 caps at a gas station so I picked up a lot. But it is nice having the back up option of making my own. I also cut off a piece of straw for putting primer in the caps. I keep the caps I made in a candy tin and haven't lost any of the powder from bouncing around.
ive been using copper sheets :D
and was just about to recommend the good ole duco acetone "one-two" punch as well xD
@dudearlo I’ve heard a lot about duco so I’ll give it a try. Thsnks
If your in a toy store look,and see if they sell the red plastic caps meant for a later model cap gun. I use them on my Ruger old Army,and they work fine.
🤔 you should do a video now I'm Hella curious
this makes me wonder how the early pioneers moving west maintained the ability to harvest game along the way. no refrigeration and no time to preserve the meat. so it had to be harvested daily and consumed. since cabalas did not exist nor online supply sources this would have the people bringing a lot of supplies or having to carry/source raw materials along the way. its hard to believe a entire continebt was settled and defended with this tech. now imagine standing at your tailgate with an oil lamp making caps and casting lead... then tracking down some dinner. harvesting it dragging back to camp and cleaning it. then some ones got to cook it. sounds like a hard life compared to todays instant gratification at the drive through
No doubt. I love reading about that period. There’s some interesting documents out there about this and lists of packing supplies for the journey. Caps, powder and lead were big parts of it…so was salt. They salted and dried meat but also had to eat it soon. Lots of beans and coffee on those lists. I’ll tell you…those generations were TOUGH. Most of us would be in trouble. Thanks.
Good to remember though in case the SHTF, alot of young folks these days will no doubt starve to death.
Anyone ever fire an old flintlock? First time I saw one, I wondered what keeps the powder from blowing off the pan, lol,
@DarkAngel051372 lol. Me too!!!!
I have one of those tools which I bought about 30 years ago. Had no idea anyone was still making them. It came with a little hole puncher, that you used to punch the centers out of roll caps to stuff in the aluminum cap. It always seemed kind of hokey but was much less tedious than what you show here. I snapped a few of them and they seemed to work, but I don't remember if I ever did any actual shooting with them.
I don't know if it's still around, but years ago I remember seeing percussion nipples that were made to use shotgun primers. Of course those may be in short supply as well.
They still make those. Sold as "209 ignition" when already part of the factory gun. Sold as a "conversion" for #11 nipples.
Seems like a fine idea at least.
Try putting caps in a large rifle primer tray. It makes it much easier.
Yea…gonna do that! Thanks
I make mine and use a small pistol primer tray (that comes when you buy the small pistol primers). Fits the #11 caps perfectly.
Yes!..., my method as well. I love that when you have a full tray, cardboard slide cover for proper storage when you're done
@kthomson5573 yes sir. Me too. Thanks!
I use the # 10 & 11 maker works great
I have a good time making caps and I sit at my work bench and make 50-60 at a time. The cost of the cap maker pays for itself when you consider the ridiculous price of a tin of caps. I’ve even saved my spent musket caps, cleaned then out with a tweezers and a little steel wool and used this same method to recharge them. It worked fine. It’s easy cutting a pop can to make a sheet, as you show and stamp out caps. And as you point out, sometimes a few fail but it’s very satisfying to make your own and fun to boot. I did take a thin board and drill a dozen holes or more that the cap will fit snug with a little push that holds the cap firmly as you prime them up. Make 3-4 boards a 1/4” thick and you can fill your tin. Thanks Kindly and Many Blessings with a mess of good Shootin! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
Thank you Davey!!! It is quite satisfying to be self sufficient! Have a blessed day
@ It sure is and I even thought about making some black powder but I have a decent supply right now. I do love making caps and paper cartridges. You just can’t beat that historic black powder. Sometimes in my shop when I have a strong desire to drive a bit of lead out of a barrel, I put a tiny bit of black powder on my wood stove and poof! Ahhhhhhh, the purfume is lovely! I enjoy your channel so much because of your love of black powder. The whole process connects us to our history and our Ancestors and deep appreciation for the Soldiers of our Revolution and Civil War. I restored my 1829 N. Starr 69 cal. Army issue musket. It was a flint lock originally but converted to cap and ball in the 1840s and used in the Civil War. I like to shoot it and keep it in good shape. When you blast that big old lead ball out of that it makes me amazed that anyone survived that war. All those Boys were tough as cur nails! So Thanks Again and Many Blessings! DaveyJO in Lancaster County Pennsylvania
@daveyjoweaver6282 thank you Davey! We share the love of black powder and history!
Great to see how others do this...
Prime-All is not available here in NZ, so I disassemble plastic toy caps by crushing them gently with long nosed pliers. Now and again the cap will fire if I am a bit rough, but no harm done. I make cap bodies with the same die as yours, and have made a tiny copper spoon to put the powder in. I top it with a small paper disk and a drop of clear nail polish diluted about 3 to 1 with acetone. The disk helps to keep the compound in the cap during handling. Since using the disks I have had no caps that had the compound fall out.
I did make a "finishing" die that fits in my reloading press to compact the walls of the cap bodies before filling. I found that this improves the caps for holding in my capping 'stars' and that they cling to the nipples better. It's worth the few seconds per cap to run them through the die.
The plastic caps I have actually have the formula on the backing card; they are made from red phosphorus and potassium chlorate.
They certainly go off with a heck of a bang. Like you, I found that filling the caps only about 1/4 full is best for good results.
Each percussion cap takes the powder from about three plastic caps, so I get about 48 from each $2.90 card of 144 shots.... about 6c a cap.
Commercial caps here used to be 20c each, but they are more than that now... 25 or 30c depending on the vendor..... yes, $30 a hundred!. So apart from the time factor (I am 81 now so have the time) the home made caps make economic sense.
Some use roll caps I see, but these seem to be a prohibited import to NZ now...... sigh....
Sounds like it’s worth the effort! That’s cool. Thanks.
Thanks for being honest about the cap reliability. I tried this a few years ago and hated doing it--well the part of filling the cap with mixture. I'm about ready to try it again but will only use those caps for casual practice. I will save my Remington # 10's for participation in Cowboy Action Matches.
That’s what I did!
Another reason to support your local rendezvous. I always find caps there no matter what shortage the rest of the world is having.
I make sealer with Duco cement mixed with acetone …
There’s an idea. That would prolly be even better huh? Thanks
How much cement to acetone thank you
Prime-all works well for me. I load the caps, insert a disc of nitrated cigarette paper, use a drilled board to hold the caps and spray with hair spray. My problem has been finding suitable material for punching out musket caps.
There's diy 3d printed caps on Amazon.
Pie tin works great
You can go to Hobby Lobby or a local hobby shop and get a roll of .005 in. 36 gauge copper sheeting. The package does not say how long the sheeting is but it's 12 in. wide. It has to be 3 ft. long. You can make a lot from it.
@noapologizes2018 I’ve heard that copper sheeting works great!
@@CapBallFanatic-gb3jb It works really good. It does cost more than aluminum cans. I had it left over from a different project.
Very good instruction and I Thank You Kindly! I do have a capper but need to get more primer. It also looks like you have a Lovely collection of revolvers. And to myself as well, I say you can’t beat percussion revolvers and muskets! I always say that its like shooting history. My daughter visited from Oregon last Sept and our tradition is to visit Gettysburg whenever we can. I have an old Army issue 69 cal smooth bore I restored and before our visit to Gettysburg, we went to the range. She shot the musket, my 1860 Army 44 and 51 Navy 36. She liked the 36 best. But shooting these guns give you a deep appreciation for all the hardships the Soldiers endured and being grateful that you’re not on the wrong end of a lead ball or Minnie! Thanks Again, Many Blessings and Good Shootin! DaveyJO in Pennsylvania
Thank you. I love your tradition. The historical feeling is what got me into these revolvers in the first place. I love trying to step into the shoes of our forefathers and mothers to get a sense of their lives…through the firearms, clothes and sometimes camping. I also own some cap lock and flintlock rifles that do the same thing. Someday I’ll get a sharps! Thanks again. I love visiting Gettysburg.
thank you jay this is very interesting thank you for sharing i havent been able to find any 10's but have found #11
Thanks Les! 11’s work! I shoot them often to save my 10’s. Glad you found some. Lots of RWS 1075 available now. I really like those.
Great video. TY
I got this kit in the mail today & the #10 cap maker...glad I got the real metal cap maker and not one of the cheaper 3d printed ones.
Also! I got my 1858 army in the mail too! I'm like a kid on Christmas morning! It is a lot larger & heavier than I thought it would be...just to see I tried one of the plastic caps that come with toy cap guns and it fit snugly and fired...ok ok enough rambling gonna watch this video again and make my 1st little batch of caps! Thanks again for the videos
Wow! You’re having a great day! Sometimes those plastic caps work! Have fun
If nothing else those plastic caps are a way to just have fun with the revolver without it being loaded. Maybe it's just because I'm a kid stuck in a mans body.
@davinci3259 aren’t we all! I’m playing cowboy dress up all the time lol!
Honestly I have been looking at some western gear myself
@miraxus6264 yup. You see me in some of it on the channel. My dress game bout to improve lol
Thank you, i just started doing this and i found that using a paint brush to mix the powder works well and the back of it works well as the matchstick tamper.
You’re welcome! And thank you for the great suggestion! I’ll give er a try!
Somebody on amazon sells a DIY kit with caps, a tamp and scoop to be used with this powder. Theyre 3d printed and look and fit great.
Haven’t seen that. That’s great!
I've made these and they work well, I sand the aluminum for better adhesion and use acetone, after the 5 minutes I tamp them down then put a drop of duct cement in them, none have failed yet? I also have used this mix for recharging musket caps. Great video on making them 👍
It's a good winter hobby. Be surprised how many you can make through the course of one winter. Same with molding bullets and making paper cartridges.
Indeed. That’s when I do my paper cartridges. Winter.
Your videos are great, keep them coming
Thanks my friend! Another one tonight at 715 pm EST!
Ive been thinking about doing this, great video, thanks!
You’re welcome. They work!
The kit I had some years ago used toy cap gun caps same idea whack out the body use a paper hole punch, knock out the primer from the cap tape, push it in, worked fine cap gun caps are getting hard to find also.
I’ve seen that…but I had a tough time making the work! They are in short supply!
Cabelas
Very interessting ! I have allways used matches heads& ' box-stuff" ( phosphorus)mix , but they are not allways available. Only small quantities.Even so one time it has blowed up and the plate below got cracked in flying pieces .Nobody got hurt..I didnt even wear glasses ..That was a lesson..
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Wow! Thank you!
I just fired 24 homemade caps from 22 reloader an no duds they all sounded like a 22 shell going off
Beautiful!!!!
I have the Prime All kit. It works amazingly well.
Yes. It does. I admit I was surprised how well it worked at first!
Im experimenting with FA-7O primer compound ..it was used in US military WW2 ammunition and is probably as good as a binary type mix can get. It works great in percussion caps and us very cheap to make. Lead thiocyanate seems exotic but its farly easy to prepare.
But where to find it?
I adjusted my frame so without a nipple the hammer rested on the cylinder
Very good
Thanks!
Hairspray often has some flammable (explosive even) chemicals similar to propane in them. I wonder if you might have some unique chemical setup using that brand of a hairspray as a sealer.
Never thought about that but you’re right. I’ve see aerosol hairspray ignite. Wonder if it’s the aerosol? Hmmmm thanks
Pretty neat. Tedious but neat.
Very tedious! But it’s better than nothing!
This was the video i had in mind when i ordered this same kit..i forgot it was your video! Thanks again for your videos!
lol. Surprise!
Mine go off most the time I seal mine with hairspray so the mixture stays in the caps.
They work most of the time for me too. Most of the time with these is better than none of the time with no caps!
My hammer was getting a mark on the inside of it ,found out the hammer was hitting the arbor a little bit ,you might check yours
I will for sure. That’s a great fix! I’m going out to shoot here in a minute so I’ll check!
I’ve been making my own caps with the 22lr reloader cap maker and prime all for a couple years they work great. I have, however, streamlined the operation. I use an arbor press, and I put the slotted die in the top (ram) of the press. That way the die can stay hooked to the press, and the punch can get picked up and the cap knocked out after making it. Using the arbor press makes it effortless to punch out a lot of caps in a little time. I also use copper foil instead of aluminum. I think it works a bit better at staying on the nipples. Now, to make the prime-all powder they recommend crushing all the little clumps of the 2L powder. I took a 3/8” piece of hardwood dowel about 3” long. On one end, I epoxied a little glass craft pebble (the kind with a flat bottom) on the other end of the dowel, I whittled it down to the size of a kitchen matchstick. When I measure the 2L powder, I put it in a concave bottom inside glass shot glass. That with the glass pebble pestle, I crush down into the shot glass mortar the 2L powder. I then proceed to measure the rest of the powders in the mix and stir them up with the little measuring scoop. (Don’t crush them together with pestle after all the powders are added, or it may go bang💥). After mixing up, I dispense into caps which perfectly fit into a small pistol primer tray (that comes with the primers when you buy them). I have found a little disposable protective cone (that doctors use when they’re looking in your ear) to be the perfect funnel for priming your caps. After all the caps are primed, I use a glass medicine bottle with a glass dropper to dispense a 4:1 solution of acetone and Duco cement. 1-2 drops per cap. After 5-8 minutes tamp it down with the whittled end of the pestle. Let dry 24 H. And enjoy 🎉
I love your process. Especially the little funnel. I’m gonna study your process to see what I can “borrow”. Thanks!!!!
Absolutely! I am an artisan, blacksmith/weldor/sculptor and (obviously) BP enthusiast, so half the fun of what I do is the process of getting there. Theres never nothing to do in my life. Youre welcome to share everything I said. Happy capping! - Jon
@ironwrx thanks Jon! I love it! You’ve got skills!
I find the thicker aluminum can works better. Some are so thin. You don’t need a mallet a palm strike does it. Makes it a little faster
Love the video! If I can learn to do something for myself so that I'm not reliant on others, it's always a win. New subscriber amd I'm looking forward to more!🤘
Hey thank you! That’s why I made it. Welcome to the channel. There’s another video coming tonight at 6 pm EST.
Just purchased my first two revolvers and my gosh, caps where almost impossible to find. Definitely going to make the investment.
Yea. You either gotta grab em when you find em or make your own! CONGRATS and welcome to the “addiction”. lol
I for one would like to know what is in each bag. It would be nice to be able to source your own materials once you have the punch and you've already used up the bags.
I hear you!! I have no idea.
I have just found your channel the last week or so. I'm new to all black powder firearms and I love it. I have the molds for my 50 rifle, and also for my 44 ball and 36 ball. I also cast for all my smokeless weapons. My 45acp 230grain ball , 40 s&w, 9mm, 380, and 38. I was wondering, If I could use the cast 45 (.452) bullet in my 44 cap and ball pistol. I think it is (.452)?
So…as I read it as long as it’s soft lead probably yes. The smallest round I would use is 451. If it’s 452 than you are ok by my knowledge. Needs to shave a ring of to ensure tight seal in chamber. I don’t see why not at 452. I wouldn’t any smaller.
@@CapBallFanatic-gb3jb Thank you for the reply. That is what I was thinking.
@williamcastleberry7338 I've shot some .452 SWC I cast for my 1911 in my 1858. Worked just fine and was fun. A bit more difficult to load and less accurate than a ball.
They're pure lead in both firearms, I powder coat them for the 1911
IDK, I just ordered 500 #10 Remington caps from Cabelas.
That’s great! I got mine a couple weeks ago! This is good news!
Remember those hand held hold punches for paper..not the ones that make 3 holes in paper for a binder but just the one hole...I can imagine this being made similar..you could just punch a bunch of holes and then empty out the new caps afterwards
Good idea!
Made the caps like you did in the video. The hairspray wanted to bead up on top of the primer "dust"...I mixed 50/50 hairspray & denatured alcohol together and that seemed to soak in right away...see tomorrow if it holds good...made a bullet with a mold too..having a blast and haven't even got to shoot yet
Ohh wanted to ask how many caps do you make with just 1 mix of the prime all?
@miraxus6264 that’s terrific! Getting ready!!!!
I always save my used caps. This'll be handy
If you get yourself a pair of surgical type forceps they might be easier for you to use than twizzers to pick up your caps. I used them for fly fishing. You can lock them in place once you pick something up and not drop the cap.
Now that’s great. I may even have some! I’ll see. That would be easier on these fingers lol. Thank you
I have taken up using cap gun caps, though I also use aluminum cans to make the cap body. Excellent showing, solid sub from me, on gun channel to another.
I haven’t really given that enough of a try. I’ll have to do that. I’ll check you out on the tube! Thanks
Found your channel. Subscribed.
@@CapBallFanatic-gb3jb Welcome to the party! Three roll caps punched out with a paper hole puncher works fantastic
Highly recommend 22LR Reloader. Put your orders in soon, for whatever reason my order took several months, probably was sick.
Important information. Thanks
Interesting video, but I'm not sure being dependent on a commercial supplier for undisclosed chemical components puts folks any more "in control" during a shortage than being dependent on any other kind of component supplier. Any plans for a video on how to extract the chemicals from common household products? ;-)
I hear you on this…but at least with this you can get a couple thousand out of a 25$ set of primers components. That video on extraction is WAY above my pay grade! lol. Thanks
@@CapBallFanatic-gb3jb thanks for the reply. Come to think of it, even aside from the cost, just having another option during a shortage is a good thing. More options=more better. Thanks again. I'm just starting to look into cap and ball, so I'll check out a few more of your vids.
@ApKNJ thanks for checking it out! I’m always looking for choices! Reach out anytime and good luck with cap n ball! It’s worth it!
You can get potassium chlorate from an electrolytic cell, extracting from salt substitute. Sulfur is readily available; you can grind glass in a ball mill. Antimony Trisulfide is the tricky part--it comes straight from the ground as Stibnite, but unless you're mining and grinding it yourself, just buy yourself a pound from an online supplier and you'll never run out in this lifetime.
you need the reverse tweezers
I've tried the toy caps before and it didnt seem to work, but I saw a video recently of someone else doing it and it worked just fine. I'm gonna try some different toy caps just for fun. I thought ahead and ordered an entire case before of the real #11 and #10s. Just keep checking midway and eventually youll get them.
The toy plastic caps didn’t work for me. I’ve had up and down success with the roll caps. You got it brother…pay attention and sooner or later you’ll get some!
I always wondered if cutting the charge out of cap pistol caps would work, 60 years ago I would load cap pistol cartridges with fire cracker powder and BOOM . Push a plastic bullet at a velocity that would make the pigs squeal and run when it hit them in the butt .
We might be able to keep flintlocks. No caps needed.
There you go! I love them too but I’m gonna keep my revolvers. Lots of ways to enjoy the BP hobby. Thanks
Thank you !
You’re welcome!
I've tried this and found it to be very corosive
Great advice buddy
Thanks!!!
🇦🇺😎👍We haven’t hat pistol powder for 3 years down here in Australia
Oh no! I’m sorry to hear that.
J-Stone, I Found a better answer because you used hairspray. Why wait buddy? I was way SUCCESSFUL using Liquid Skin, a liquid band-aid! That stuff comes with a brush that puts a perfect drop on your filled cap, and, here's the BONUS. It only takes 40 seconds to dry and the caps are ready. This stuff dries FAST with seconds. The most common name is (New Skin,) and it's denatured and highly flammable, but it coats the cap perfect. I even beat the cap on the table and nothing came out. But, Do they ever go BANG. I mean BANG, but the cap is still in tact and easily removed. J, I was so excited to share this with you I almost peed my pants.
Wow! That’s great idea! Never thought of it. It sounds perfect! I’ll give it a try. Thanks man!
@@CapBallFanatic-gb3jb It IS Perfect. My son said it again, "If you can't fix it dad, it can't be fixed."
@gwilkins3650 lol! That’s great!
@@CapBallFanatic-gb3jb By the way, I immediately gently still used the wooden match pushing it down. This stuff dries extremely fast but it seals that cap like crazy. I remembered that product from years ago, when I put it on an underwater shotgun primers that I used to kill invasive carp in a lake I managed. Can't wait for you to give it a try. You'll lose your addiction to your wife's hairspray. Be careful though buddy, the fumes in that bottle are very strong.
@gwilkins3650 thanks! That’s good to know (fumes). I will definitely let you know. I may have to make an addendum to my video!!!
I have used the plastic caps for toy guns.
Do they work for you?
I tried it as an experiment and it did work, but I imagine that those will vary in quality.
@JohnSmith-kw9yc I tried them too. The couple that worked welded the plastic to the nipple. It was a bear to get off.
If you wanted to be sure I guess you could put some hot powder in the nipple.
@JohnSmith-kw9yc read that wild bill Hickok did that. I won’t.
I had a guy tell me he added laundry starch to his acetone. Can you do an experiment on that?
I’ve never heard of that. I’ll put er on my test list. Sure. Give me a minute though!
@@CapBallFanatic-gb3jb
He claimed it worked. I never got the chance to see for myself. I have no idea what mix ratio he used.
I have a guess what the ingredients are, but I'm pretty sure youtube would rather I not say directly. The first 3 make a more sensitive variation on black powder, very much not recommended for larger batches. The last is a binder.
I knew the last was a binder. The most I’ve done is a double batch. Thanks. Prolly not a TH-cam thing. Thanks.
It would be very helpful to say where you purchased. The products
The link is in the program notes. But it’s 22lrreloader.com.
Спасибо за идею. У нас такое не продают, интересно получится ли сделать капсюль под гильзы с центральным боем.
I like the comment, " we all knew smokeless was just a fad!" Lol
Very good video!,
Thank you!!!
God Bless America this is why I love our country
Manufacturers going too slow make your own
Amen!! Cabelas has Remington 10’s in stock now! There’s a few out there. But we can always do it for ourselves. That’s the American way!
Great video. Can you use the home made caps in a ted cash capper?
John
I’ve never tried but I doubt it. The cut edges on these probably wouldn’t make it out of the capper in shape. It’s worth a try I suppose! Thanks John
THe original percussion cap makeing kit was designed for roll caps. The problem is that the design of roll caps has changed so the new style roll caps will not work.
Yes. I’ve tried.
go to Graff and sons in Mexico, MO, they have them in stock so you don't need to make, most of my Colt Revolvers take NUMBER 11 CAPS, 10'S DO NOT FIT.
Oh yea. I have mine. Just trying to give others a chance to do it. Hopefully I’ve got enough. But I made ALOT of these a couple years ago. Thanks
I agree Arthritis Sucks getting old has it's drawbacks. Actually the Yellow Chemical is Dextrin a glue made from Corn Starch used to hold the mixed compound together. I get better results without the Dextrin and using a 4 to 1 mix of Acetone and Duco Cement to hold it all together. Duco Cement is Nitro Cellulose the same Chemical in Single Base Smokeless Gun Powder so it also makes the caps stronger. With my Cap Maker Die I was having a lot of Torn Caps so I Polished the sharp corners and I use a Propane Torch to Anneal the Aluminum or Copper Sheet before I make the cups.This almost eliminates the torn Cap issue . Without the Duco the Prime All mixes is very poor with Pyrodex P which I bought several pounds of during the Biden Pandemic . I've tried Hair Spray but results weren't satisfactory.
I understand that those caps are corrosive, is that your experience? I suppose it’s not a big deal as the revolver needs to be cleaned anyway. Thanks for demonstrating.
I’ve not found that. I think what gets folks saying that is they leave a yellowish-orange residue. But not sure that means they are corrosive. Hear that a lot about pyrodex and I’ve found that false too… but like you say…I clean within 24 hours so I may not know. Thanks.
Everything to do with the black powder sport is corrosive. If you're the sort who only likes to clean your guns once every year or when the shells stop extracting, black powder is not for you.
@kenofken9458 that’s my response when folk say that. If you clean it’s not corrosive!
They are--potassium chlorate is hygroscopic, and it will wreck the brass used in cartridges.
Just clean your weapon after use, and if you're making field-expedient primers for cartridges, get 'em in the wet tumbler as soon as you get back from the range.
@gpweaver it’s all corrosive if you don’t clean. Thanks!
I bought some prime all , tried mixing it three or four different batches , never worked
Wow! That’s unusual. Sorry to hear that. Maybe a bad batch
How do they grip the nipple and how easy to they come off? Could you use sheet copper?
Get a good nipple wrench. Ubertis sometimes are hard to get out the first time. But once they are out you put some anti sieze grease on em. I also only put em back finger tight and they stay fine. I’d say look for a Ted cash ratchet nipple wrench. About 20 bucks and it gives the best leverage. They have em at Dixie gun works and a few other places. Sheet copper? For percussion caps?
Just got the kit and the directions seem strange when it mentions using an "old anvil"??? 9. Use the small end of the scooper and fill funnel
to fill primer approximately 2/3 of the way up
with powder mixture.
*10. Put old Anvil on top of powder (center and level)*
11. Now, simply, add 1 drop of 55 Hardening agent.
12. Let dry completely (approximately 24 hours)
13. Now you are ready to reload.
I’ve never seen those instructions before. I have no idea what an old anvil is. Mine says fill up 1/3 of way.
Hmmmm.
@@CapBallFanatic-gb3jb I know. Strange. It's the
Sharpshooter 22LR Reloader kit. It also has a funnel and hardening liquid (I guess vs using acetone or hairspray). I'll just watch your vids and others. Thanks. ✌
@williewasahippie the funnel would help load primer into caps a lot if it’s a small one and try the hardening liquid. It might do the trick. Compare it to hairspray and acetone.
@@CapBallFanatic-gb3jb Will do! I'll try to report back sometime. Maybe, I'll upload a vid on my own channel. However, my channel is motovlogging. Worried my channel will get taken down if I ever post "anything" gun-related!!! ☮
@williewasahippie let me know.
How will these caps work in a side hammer muzzle loader?
That’s a good question. Never tried. I can’t see why they wouldn’t work ! Thanks
I just got a fairly nice CVA Apollo 50Cal,.NO the S/N is NOT in the defect list,Im trying to find percussion caps for it,I have found a page that says #11,as on Amazon,but two review say they didnt fit the guns they had,but didnt list which gun they had,I would like to know if you know which cap fit this gun and where to buy them.
I am unfamiliar with the firearm. If it takes regular #11 I know cabelas and midway have them in stock. If it takes musket caps those I’m told are really hard to get. I’m sorry I’m not more help.
@@CapBallFanatic-gb3jb Im nt sure which #11,I just know the info I found stated #11........thanks for replying....
So cci #11 are available where I said. Good luck.
Where did you find the cap maker kit?
I don’t have the site memorized but I know it’s listed in the program notes of that video. Thanks.
Excellent! Now…how are the Japanese going to make cars if we use up all the beer cans ? 😅😅
Do get mad guys , I sometimes can’t resist a little humor.
The best muzzleloaders - target guys I know have a hard time accepting a new item to add to their program. If you’re old tyme- reenactor - rendezvous type guy, home made stuff should be a priority.
I saw a tv documentary about Chinese people who were disarmed, and live out in the country, the CCP lets them have a few traditional flintlocks for ceremonies and such. They have no black powder suppliers. Hardwood charcoal, sulphur, and one more ingredient and they make their own black powder. They way all people did , before midway usa and other suppliers. Suppliers are great .
Self sufficiency is next level living. Make it all at home and live a good life.👍
Thanks! I love it.
99% alcohol mixed 10:1 with duco cement makes a good binder/sealer. Try omitting the off white powder (the beige one not the yellow or white), together reliability is near 99%
Thank you. I will.
I figured the off-white powder was ground glass--what do you think it is? Something like parlon, designed to act as a binder when acetone is added?
@@gpweaver it's some kind of binder yeah.
@@chairzombie8378 It's probably parlon or nitrocellulose flakes. Which...you can make your own nitrocellulose by dissolving ping-pong balls (or smokeless powder--great use if you had to empty a bunch of sketchy reloads) in acetone.
I'd omit that #4 powder and add the same quantity in finely ground glass, to ensure reliable ignition.
Just got my kit to make caps ,tried a few an the caps are really ugly ,different can maybe?
They can look ugly. Maybe a different can. Some use thin copper sheeting maybe .005 I think. But you have to shape them a bit with your fingers. It’s a practice thing. Good luck. They will get better but they do look a bit jagged and different.
Caps are expensive now. What used to cost a little over 6 bucks at academy now cost 13 bucks
Saltpetre, carbon, sulphur and some kind of oxidiser.
My problem with home made caps is they dont come out nice and round like store bought, therefore they wont work in my Ted Cash capper. I would think that after 200 years someone somewhere should have the know-how and or be able to make nice round caps that fit in capper. I use to use Remington's and they worked nice but now they have stopped making caps, now I'm stuck with two choices, CCI and RWS, neither are as good fitting as Remington's was......
I hear you. I have good luck with RWs. Check cabelas. They have had new Remington 10 in lately. I’ve also seen them in other places. They might. Be back
@@CapBallFanatic-gb3jb Where I am in ME, Cabalas dont have Rems in stock, but they have NO-11 online, but thats extra $25.00 Haz-Mat. Also, the last time I bought Rem 11, they was to loose on my 1851 navy, but 10 fit great., Right now I'm leaning to RWS, I have CCI-11, they barely hold on my Tresso niples, the NO 10s was to small, it's a headache......
@@CapBallFanatic-gb3jb What you think of Pietta 1858 Remington Navy Black Powder Revolver - .36 Caliber?
I like my 1858 Rem in 44 cal, I hardley ever had cap jam issues with it, but now I become addicted to 36 cal, I still get the bang without so much kick, I became soft in my old age.....
@job38four10 yes it is. I shot RWS today all day and had no problems. I really like them too!!!! Thanks
@job38four10 me too lol. I like the 36 rem a lot. If you like your 44 you’ll love the 36!!!
I haven’t seen caps on the shelves for years now.. I know they still exist, I’m just saying I haven’t seen them in stores..
Yea. They only hit stores once in a while. Usually summer getting ready for hunting season.
Why don’t they include a “one-third scoop” with the kit? Probably cast all of twenty cents more.
Now that would make everything easier for sure!
Is there any reason I can't use #11 caps ? I have 6000 I paid $2.89 per thousand for ..
No. There isn’t! I use #11 caps a lot. About 2 months ago I put a video out on the cap shortage and I talk about that fact. But…I shoot CCI 11 and RWS 1075 all the time. You’ll just have one fall off once in a while. No big deal. Fire away. Watch that vid if you can.
Are you Willy Nelson?
lol. Nobody ever mistakes me for Brad Pitt….but wille is cool.
Have you ever had a chain fire with these homemade caps ,I like my fingers ,LOL
Nope. I haven’t ever. Which is why I’m suspicious of the idea that most chain fires come from nipple end and loose or bent caps! These are the definition of that. Just my opinion
I know how it is I'm 74 ,but they work good,
@mikerussell6212 I’m 67. Gaining on you lol
@mikerussell6212 I’m 67. Gaining on you lol
👍👍👌👌
Now line up twelve 😺 cats and see how that goes 😂 with the dropper.
I'm tired of annoying shortages!
Becareful this leads to modern primer reloading when you know you know
Avoid bud light cans as they may be too gay to be effective.
Lol
Got mine a few years ago, ain`t looked for em in the store since Why should I? I can get 2000 for $20 I`d be foolish
Yup. I agree.
Yeah just don't leave them in your guns of the West Capper for any amount of time otherwise it stretches them out and they don't hold the regular craps properly
That’s good to know!