For anybody watching this video, please do not do what this guy did. I am a certified HVAC technician, and you do not enable the clutch while it’s empty and dry. The clutch will automatically engage once refrigerant is detected and pressure is built up inside the system. By shorting out the switch contacts, your prematurely, engaging the clutch and running it dry without refrigerant. This is equivalent to running your engine without oil. Do not follow this clowns mistakes. I am certified 608 universal and 609 MVAC. A leak this big is also very foolish to try and deal with stop leak.
its kind of funny that he adds the stop leak. It DOES NOT work, and then he recommends it anyway. yes it worked great for half an hour.😂 Also its not FREON. It is 134A or refrigerant.
There are generally two types of AC stop leaks. One is essentially just PAG oil and the other type reacts to moisture, theoretically at the pin hole leak. The PAG oil types will only work for minor rubber o-ring seal leaks. The latter will work for leaks in metal. If you use the latter type, you will need to vacuum the system (to boil out moisture), otherwise you will clog your AC dryer, or worse, accum/conden/orifice. Adding more and more stop leak with PAG will cause harm if done too many times. You might want to view the manuf's method for adding R134a. I do not know of a case where you need to turn on your condenser. Adding on the low side will bring up the pressure to satisfy the pressure switch (add vapor/not liquid). Your manuf service manual can verify if this is the case for your vehicle. I believe in some vehicles it would be best not to jumper and run the system dry. Also add with gauges or by weight. Weight method is the best if you can reclaim the R134A or if the system is empty. Gauge method is good if you are a little low. You can rent (free) a gauge set and a vacuum pump at your local parts store and do the job correctly. There are a ton of videos showing how to use them correctly with no guessing. It will take time to tell if a stop leak "hail mary" worked. You cannot tell if it worked by running over short period of time. No stop leak will work for a system that leaks out over a period of a couple of hours. It is best used for a system that has a much slower leak. The best thing to do is to add some dye and verify where the leak is. If it is in the pump or condenser it is an easy enough job to replace o-rings or even the condenser/pump if aftermarket parts are used. If it is in the accum then it is not an easy fix. You cannot usually view a accum leak because it is buried in the dash, but you can see the dye in the condensation drips on the ground.
Thanks for the useful information. I looked up some of the stop leaks at the store and they all say it is for rubber hoses, o-rings, gaskets, seals... not for metal. My A/C still works in my 20+ year old car but I have been seeing a slow drip under the car for the past year and it "complains" a bit when sitting idle at a traffic light or waiting at a drive-through. I was able to finally trace it to the A/C yet the A/C still cools, and I live in Texas. The fans need work and it looks like the radiator cap needs replacing, but those are another conversation.
That is a very serious leak ..most cars I have had leaks lasted 6 months or more...I would add a can of stop leak to a slow leak maybe,but for this leak I would have added die to locate all leaks and replace parts and seals than recharge..great demo on product. Thanks
I have never found a stop leak to work and I've been doing this job for several decades.......it might slow the leak a bit, but they don't work in the long run.
@@kdeh21803 weird since its pretty much a glue which sips into the leaks then harden. its foolproof except that you need to run it for a long period of time after injecting it to prevent clogging
Depends where the leak is,if it's o rings or gaskets or maybe rubber hoses, that stop leak MAY work but if it's a metal line or condenser, evaporator leak,you need a stop leak that will stop a metal leak, though those types of stop leak will eventually clog the system but .!
This stuff absolutely worked for me I put it in and put two cans in a PT cruiser and fill the rest with freon it has been over 3 years and it is still ice cold ac and no issues with pump
I have a 3 day leak and i could hear the hissing. I did an AC freon refill and leak test thru a smog/repair shop i was getting smogged at when i first got my car. Said there was no leak even after i pointed out the new hissing noise near the compressor(not inside car, could be hoses going to to and from....but I was too busy to argue. But im inclinded to think they never did a leak test unless there's some circumstance that the test would not show a specific leak type within the compressor. Yall think this kind of sealant might work? The car sat for over 10 years before i got it 2 years ago so all seals are def an issue for leaks but runs great, was 55k now 79k miles. Ballin on a budget so its either seal repair or freon uv then will go from there when money permits
@@chrislovesdetailing Might be too aggressive of a leak, this product is rated for about a 2 week to hot air kind of leak. If it doesnt seal, the red dye on it should point out where its leaking from, tho.
You knew? Good for you, really…but the thing is not everyone knows so, I’m grateful for the time some people take to teach others and help us avoid mistakes…thanks!
According to a garage my car had an old leaky condenser and possibly o-ring leaks around the compressor. This is after putting dye into the system, they couldn't give me any definitive but definitely wanted a lot of money from me to fix the problem for good. A can of stop leak and some more refrigerant did the job just fine and it's been over a year.
Stop leak works great for SMALL leaks like old hoses and cracks in the condenser soldering but large leaks as stated on the container requires part replacement. But the stuff works is the point here. It’s not snake oil but not a magic wand either lol.
My cars AC lasted 18 years on the original factory charge. It leaked out small leak got it recharged cars now 20 years old and AC still works so the sealer did it’s job
can confirm having 80's 90's and 2000's camry's even after sitting and not using the ac throughout the winter, when summer comes around and there's 100+° heatwaves they all blow ice cold. my friend had a 00' camry with one rad fan out and had that idling in the driveway for an hour to cool it down before going on a road trip and that thing never overheated and blew 30 degree or less air
My 2011 yaris beg to differ, it lasted 9 years before a complete ac system overhaul. Although it maybe also account to improper battery change that somehow made the ac clutch intermittently switch on and off causing the clutch plate to broke in half, so yeah..
I didn't see him pull a vacuum. If you pull a vacuum you can open the valve and let the freon run in until it doesn't fill any more. Then start the engine and the compressor will kick on. Finish filling until you get the right amount
@@bldavis61 The compressor will kick on but it will keep cycling forever. Jumping the low-pressure switch keeps the compressor turning so you are not standing there all day scratching your butt waiting for the system to fill.
I have a leak at the aluminum tubing going to the condencer. My mechanic said to just buy another condenser. I am looking around $600 for parts and labor. 😞. I used a rubber hose clamp, it worked temporarily. The heat and cold combined temperature made wearout fast. Does anybody have a good home remery? Someone originally tried to repair it with some hard repair kit but it felt over time.
Hi. If you think it’s on an easy to get to part of the alum pipe.? Take a larger rubber hose and cut it 3” long and coat the inside of hose with jbweld. Place it over cleaned sanded alum pipe where leak is. Make sure everything leaking is covered. Use a pull tie to secure it . Let dry and remove rubber hose. Also works for aluminum ac pipes that come apart at joints because holders have rusted off and pipe comes apart.
i have sealed leaks with JB weld after research on here. take your time and make sure you have complete coverage. dont mess with it and let it harden fully. i can verify that it worked.
@@Glenn_123 yes it plugged the leak but I still had to get a proper ac service after I used it to get the moisture out of the system to get everything to work properly
So you can not add Freon or stop leak unless you pull a vacuum to remove the moisture. However, you can not pull a vacuum because you have a leak. How do you do this? So, I am at the same position you were an AC completely empty with a leak. Would love to try stop leak but I know I can not pull a vacuum to remove the moisture. Thoughts?
@@nazigrammar9728 Thank you for the comment. I actually rented one (you get your money back) from AutoZone and pulled a vacuum and shot some sealer in there. IT went from holding no Freon overnight to now holding it for about two weeks. I just put some more in so we will see what happens. If nothing else this will get the car through the summer until other decisions can be made. Thank you for your thoughts regarding the Harbor Freight pump because I was looking at that one.
I like this guy's video because he tells it as it is. Today, after 2 years of putting up with no AC, I used proper gauges to fill the system with pure gas, no sealer. A garage, 2 years ago, told me a new compressor was needed (leaks between moving seals). So I'll see what happens. It might leak out in 15 minutes. If so, I probably need a new compressor and other seals. However, if it lasts longer I know it's a slow leak, like a slow puncture that can be topped up. BTW can "stopleak" totally ruin the car's AC system?.
It lasted just two days. I suppose that tells me it's not a small leak. I think the compressor suggestion might be correct. Where I live, the car's AC is on every time you drive. Car is 16 and the AC packed in 2yrs ago. So, 14 years of constant AC use might just spring a leak in the compressor.
Tell you what, whenever I replied, it's still working in a very limited way. That is, if the outside temperature is lower than 24 centigrade, the AC system keeps things cool. However, at 27, 28° when the sun is shining strongly, no chance....the AC can't keep up. What does this tell me?. 1. I've lost gas after a full charge and the AC just manages a minimum setting. Thus it's a leak, that is like a slow puncture in a tyre. It works at low pressure. 2. I have a faulty expansion valve?. 3. Faulty compressor?.
Only thing I learned from it blowing cold for a day or so,is you have leaks..you need to add uv die to find leaks...than you can repair them...if compressor worked well for even an hour this tells me your compressor is good,but yes if leaks are coming from compressor internally then it may need replacing..
Vacuuming a leaky system will "boil off" the moisture there but at the same time will suck in moisture contained in the air leaking IN. So how DO you get moisture out of a leaking AC system?
I don't get why the leaks even happen to begin with. Finding the leak sounds like a nightmare. Will you try reusing this gimmicky "sealer" again until it works fully?
I took my car to the shop. They put dye in it and I guess freon. It blew cold air for about a week then it stopped. Does that sound like a fast leak ? I'm not a mechanic at all when it comes to compressors or AC issues. And also, how long does the dye last before you can't tell anymore where the leaks are ?
@@BuddysDIY Thanks for the reply! No it came pre-filled with the oil. Because i didn't think to replace the two seals. i thought if running the a/c with out gas is okay, to test for leaks with a bit of soapy water.
As long as there is oil it should be fine. Now it may need a little bit if gas to actually circulate the gas. But I've ran compressors short term dry with no oil before and they lived. I think you'll be good
Of it all leaks or up within about two weeks or less to need to make physical repairs like o-rings etc.. no leak sealer well fix that.. is only for very small leaks. Line in my car where the gas leaks or over two years.
Fixing it right probably costs $500. Places charge $150-200 just to vacuum, refill, and put the dye in. Then another $200+ for the compressor, plus another $200 for labor to install it. I for one, drive a 22 year old car with 324K miles on it. Don't have $500 to fix the AC with.
@@aznnp77 If you drive a 22-year-old car with 324k on it and you still can't afford to fix it right, you might want to get some help with budgeting your money.
@@deewask1656 I fixed it. It was the AC Compressor clutch. I took the shim off the clutch and it works again. Free fix. But I know I'll have to replace the compressor eventually.
Not always, there is a valve inside the compressor which is replaceable on most cars, that is always an option, and usually get clogged and causes low side ac to rise drastically in pressure
Does anybody tried to seal a leak that takes 5 -6 days to refill with freon, if can be sealed with this kind of products?? When is full mine bmw e39 from 2000, can grow pinguins.... but just for 5-6 days. Please help....
I have an 07 Dodge Caliber the AC was working fine for years. Then I had to have the alternator replaced in order to do that the shop had to move the AC compressor which involved interfering with the seals on the compressor which they replaced but then AC started leaking we thought that the seal is leaking because they were aftermarket instead of OEM I replace the seals with Lem seals they got the car working with the air conditioner working yesterday said that it was putting temperature out about 45° and I paid for the car and pick it up this morning and it's not producing any cold are all he says he can't find any leaks anywhere so now he's he's saying it's probably the evaporator coil in the dash and it's going to cost like $900 to repair. I don't have that kind of money. I don't know what's involved in taking this car apart myself I'm just wondering if an ACC lore is an option for me it took approximately all night to lose the ac refrigerant which is about right for the car it would sit overnight and lose the refrigerant I'm wondering if an AC stop leak component has any chance of fixing this or am I just screwed and have to replace the AC evaporator thing in dash
@@dsbanana420 problem is I cannot keep letting g them have my car. It's crazy hot, and my truck is not an ideal daily driver. I need my car on the road now,,,not three months from now
On my Ford escape mechanic is saying that there is a ac leak and that it will be a 2 day job cause is under the dash of the passenger side.bu the glove compartment. $1000 job. What you think?
Sounds like the evaporator, but I would get a 2nd & if possible a 3rd opinion. That is a big job that in most cases requires the whole dashboard to be removed, bit it depends on the particular vehicle
I always read (can't cite the source...too long ago) that you should not invert the containers which dumps liquid refrigerant into the system causing "temperature shock", or sending non compressable liquid straight to the compressor. Any thoughts?
In residential and commercial HVAC you do to make sure you get all the liquid refrigerant and minimal gas. In automotive you do the same thing but in those small cans you technically lightly shake them while upside down.
I been doubtful since my fereon leaked in about a month or 2, and that's aggressive in my book. My dad had creasida 1991 and had to refill it's fereon only twice in 25 years of using it. Just put one 30 mo Italian stop leak and hoping this works man.. I have been let down my Toyota. It was the best once upon a time.
My reference shows 28oz. It also shows a high/low side pressure of 299psi/26psi with an ambient temperature of 80F, relative humidity of 60% & engine at 1500RPM. With 28oz in her now I'm pretty close to right on the money!
Hi, I guess the point I was trying to make is that I think the sticker is describing the amount of r134a in the part number just above it. It describes a full can of any r134a perfectly but doesn't seem likely to be the fill spec for any auto a/c fill volume. That spec is probably found elsewhere.
Sorry, I just noticed the weight on the label in kg and that is actually 28 oz. It's just a coincidence that your spec is 1 lb and 12 oz which both describe a full can, but in this case the ounces is wt. and not volume. I'm working on an a/c leak as well and wish you well.
Yeah no problem at all. Just made a video on a condenser and changed the evaporator as well last week. If you have any questions or need some help I'll be happy to lend out whatever expertise I have. And you do the same brother. Stay healthy
@@JacobEcret oh my memory was fuzzy, it actually said to shake and rotate it between the 12 and 3 o'clock positions, not upside down. Look up SuperTech r134a from Walmart,$4.88 a can. My 87 F250 wasn't cold after 4 years of owning it so I recharged it last year. Worked great. Need to see if my 85 Ford E350 will hold vac before I try filling it since it's got basically no pressure on the low side. It's probably been 20 years since it was charged.
I have 1 question. If you know that there's a huge leak and 15 minutes later it would be empty, its 1.) a waste of money and 2.) Its irresponsible to let it leak into the atmosphere. I know its just testing to see if it works but it should have been tested on a small leak or atleast a leak detector to test for a leak with a recovery unit on stand-by.
I know Ac stop leak is more likely to cause issues when there is moisture in the system. You really should evac your system before recharges! I do have a video on how to check where the leak is coming from! Did you see that one? Hopefully its a worn o-ring on a fitting! Best of luck!
Hopefully you see this and can reply. I have a leak on mine and put some refrigerant with UV dye in it and only place as if now I see glowing is the vents inside at dash. What would that be if so??
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For anybody watching this video, please do not do what this guy did. I am a certified HVAC technician, and you do not enable the clutch while it’s empty and dry. The clutch will automatically engage once refrigerant is detected and pressure is built up inside the system. By shorting out the switch contacts, your prematurely, engaging the clutch and running it dry without refrigerant. This is equivalent to running your engine without oil. Do not follow this clowns mistakes. I am certified 608 universal and 609 MVAC. A leak this big is also very foolish to try and deal with stop leak.
Lol gtfoh your so mad he was able to do a job you charge 100s for in minutes by himself.
No need to engage pump, but no damage will be done because oil is in pump.
To certified guy, People have been doing this for decades so they do not have to pay you guys to do it. It works just fine
@@agilliam1980 I just did this my AC has been working great ever since.
its kind of funny that he adds the stop leak. It DOES NOT work, and then he recommends it anyway. yes it worked great for half an hour.😂 Also its not FREON. It is 134A or refrigerant.
There are generally two types of AC stop leaks. One is essentially just PAG oil and the other type reacts to moisture, theoretically at the pin hole leak. The PAG oil types will only work for minor rubber o-ring seal leaks. The latter will work for leaks in metal. If you use the latter type, you will need to vacuum the system (to boil out moisture), otherwise you will clog your AC dryer, or worse, accum/conden/orifice. Adding more and more stop leak with PAG will cause harm if done too many times.
You might want to view the manuf's method for adding R134a. I do not know of a case where you need to turn on your condenser. Adding on the low side will bring up the pressure to satisfy the pressure switch (add vapor/not liquid). Your manuf service manual can verify if this is the case for your vehicle. I believe in some vehicles it would be best not to jumper and run the system dry.
Also add with gauges or by weight. Weight method is the best if you can reclaim the R134A or if the system is empty. Gauge method is good if you are a little low.
You can rent (free) a gauge set and a vacuum pump at your local parts store and do the job correctly. There are a ton of videos showing how to use them correctly with no guessing.
It will take time to tell if a stop leak "hail mary" worked. You cannot tell if it worked by running over short period of time. No stop leak will work for a system that leaks out over a period of a couple of hours. It is best used for a system that has a much slower leak.
The best thing to do is to add some dye and verify where the leak is. If it is in the pump or condenser it is an easy enough job to replace o-rings or even the condenser/pump if aftermarket parts are used. If it is in the accum then it is not an easy fix. You cannot usually view a accum leak because it is buried in the dash, but you can see the dye in the condensation drips on the ground.
Longest comment I ever seen in TH-cam history
Thanks
@@poppawheelie203 it helps !!
Read my lips
Thanks for the useful information. I looked up some of the stop leaks at the store and they all say it is for rubber hoses, o-rings, gaskets, seals... not for metal. My A/C still works in my 20+ year old car but I have been seeing a slow drip under the car for the past year and it "complains" a bit when sitting idle at a traffic light or waiting at a drive-through. I was able to finally trace it to the A/C yet the A/C still cools, and I live in Texas. The fans need work and it looks like the radiator cap needs replacing, but those are another conversation.
That is a very serious leak
..most cars I have had leaks lasted 6 months or more...I would add a can of stop leak to a slow leak maybe,but for this leak I would have added die to locate all leaks and replace parts and seals than recharge..great demo on product. Thanks
I was super surprised with the supertech AC stop leak. It worked and I had a little more than usual leak. For the price, it's a steal and works.
I have never found a stop leak to work and I've been doing this job for several decades.......it might slow the leak a bit, but they don't work in the long run.
I’d say that to if I was a mechanic lol
@@Travelwelders I'm no mechanic, I just do my own work in my garage..... I have never found a stop leak to work.
@@kdeh21803 I have never found a condom to stop leak either. You know, thats after many tries, of course
@@kdeh21803 weird since its pretty much a glue which sips into the leaks then harden.
its foolproof except that you need to run it for a long period of time after injecting it to prevent clogging
Depends where the leak is,if it's o rings or gaskets or maybe rubber hoses, that stop leak MAY work but if it's a metal line or condenser, evaporator leak,you need a stop leak that will stop a metal leak, though those types of stop leak will eventually clog the system but .!
This stuff absolutely worked for me I put it in and put two cans in a PT cruiser and fill the rest with freon it has been over 3 years and it is still ice cold ac and no issues with pump
A leak that is big enough to drain the system in 15 minutes can not be fixed with sealer. Even I know that.
atlast a big sense comment i see here 👍👍👍
I have a 3 day leak and i could hear the hissing.
I did an AC freon refill and leak test thru a smog/repair shop i was getting smogged at when i first got my car. Said there was no leak even after i pointed out the new hissing noise near the compressor(not inside car, could be hoses going to to and from....but I was too busy to argue. But im inclinded to think they never did a leak test unless there's some circumstance that the test would not show a specific leak type within the compressor. Yall think this kind of sealant might work? The car sat for over 10 years before i got it 2 years ago so all seals are def an issue for leaks but runs great, was 55k now 79k miles.
Ballin on a budget so its either seal repair or freon uv then will go from there when money permits
@@chrislovesdetailing Might be too aggressive of a leak, this product is rated for about a 2 week to hot air kind of leak. If it doesnt seal, the red dye on it should point out where its leaking from, tho.
You knew? Good for you, really…but the thing is not everyone knows so, I’m grateful for the time some people take to teach others and help us avoid mistakes…thanks!
@@ardoario4990 I'm glad you told that punk off cause you are right.
According to a garage my car had an old leaky condenser and possibly o-ring leaks around the compressor. This is after putting dye into the system, they couldn't give me any definitive but definitely wanted a lot of money from me to fix the problem for good. A can of stop leak and some more refrigerant did the job just fine and it's been over a year.
Was your compressor working? Mine doesn’t want to engage because it hasn’t got enough Freon , and I can’t find the connection port in my car
@@bobster6404look for a cylinder like tank. It will be on there
Stop leak works great for SMALL leaks like old hoses and cracks in the condenser soldering but large leaks as stated on the container requires part replacement. But the stuff works is the point here. It’s not snake oil but not a magic wand either lol.
i had a slow leak in my truck and put some oreily blue devil stop leak and it fixed it for 3 summers. Before i had to recharged every summer.
You put an oil stop leak into your ac line?
I can confirm it works on a small leak not big leaks. It fixed my 18 year old car that had a small leak
How long has it held?
@@MrEntTv It lasted me a full year before Inhad to recharge. Totally worth the money.
Toyota's seem to have the most durable ac systems. I've seen 25 year old Toyota's in Florida with all original systems and one recharge in 25 years 😎
My cars AC lasted 18 years on the original factory charge. It leaked out small leak got it recharged cars now 20 years old and AC still works so the sealer did it’s job
can confirm having 80's 90's and 2000's camry's even after sitting and not using the ac throughout the winter, when summer comes around and there's 100+° heatwaves they all blow ice cold. my friend had a 00' camry with one rad fan out and had that idling in the driveway for an hour to cool it down before going on a road trip and that thing never overheated and blew 30 degree or less air
My 2011 yaris beg to differ, it lasted 9 years before a complete ac system overhaul. Although it maybe also account to improper battery change that somehow made the ac clutch intermittently switch on and off causing the clutch plate to broke in half, so yeah..
2005 Prius with 250k miles and orginal ac, condenser sprung a tiny pinhole leak.
It's slowed it down for me but it doesn't "seal" things up
You did not have to use the staple just add a little bit of freon and the compressor will kick in. Then you can do procedures with the rest
I didn't see him pull a vacuum. If you pull a vacuum you can open the valve and let the freon run in until it doesn't fill any more. Then start the engine and the compressor will kick on. Finish filling until you get the right amount
No the compressor sucks in the gas on the low side suction line if the compressor not running nothing will happen the gas will stay in the can
Not sure whats wrong with my car, it wouldn't suck in any ac, of course the ac no longer turns on. Gonna see if i can jump start it
@@justchillin7274 Yep you have to jump start the ac compressor to get it running in order for it the accept the refrigerant.
@@bldavis61 The compressor will kick on but it will keep cycling forever. Jumping the low-pressure switch keeps the compressor turning so you are not standing there all day scratching your butt waiting for the system to fill.
A/C slater wish he was this COOL😂
I have a leak at the aluminum tubing going to the condencer. My mechanic said to just buy another condenser. I am looking around $600 for parts and labor. 😞. I used a rubber hose clamp, it worked temporarily. The heat and cold combined temperature made wearout fast. Does anybody have a good home remery? Someone originally tried to repair it with some hard repair kit but it felt over time.
Hi. If you think it’s on an easy to get to part of the alum pipe.? Take a larger rubber hose and cut it 3” long and coat the inside of hose with jbweld. Place it over cleaned sanded alum pipe where leak is. Make sure everything leaking is covered. Use a pull tie to secure it . Let dry and remove rubber hose. Also works for aluminum ac pipes that come apart at joints because holders have rusted off and pipe comes apart.
i have sealed leaks with JB weld after research on here. take your time and make sure you have complete coverage. dont mess with it and let it harden fully. i can verify that it worked.
I just have a tiny pinhole in my condenser and it takes like two weeks for it to leak enough to be warm so I’m thinking this should work for me…
Did this work for you?
Try to use ZnChl2 salt(use HChl acid and add Zn till full melt) apply it to a leaking spot and then solder it.
Hollo? Lol
@@Glenn_123 yes it plugged the leak but I still had to get a proper ac service after I used it to get the moisture out of the system to get everything to work properly
The only thing I worry about on the AC system is the evaporator it’s in the dash not easy to get too and if you got a leak there oh boy.
I used BLASTER with stop leak and dye it locked up my compressor, I will never use stop leak refrigerant again
So you can not add Freon or stop leak unless you pull a vacuum to remove the moisture. However, you can not pull a vacuum because you have a leak. How do you do this? So, I am at the same position you were an AC completely empty with a leak. Would love to try stop leak but I know I can not pull a vacuum to remove the moisture. Thoughts?
Fill it with air and spray all the lines with soapy water or check out my video where I use ac dye
Just get that cheap vacuum pump from harbor freight. I use it in my garage - works 2nd year with no problems.
It worth even to fix just one vehicle, instead of pay "professionals"
@@nazigrammar9728 Thank you for the comment. I actually rented one (you get your money back) from AutoZone and pulled a vacuum and shot some sealer in there. IT went from holding no Freon overnight to now holding it for about two weeks. I just put some more in so we will see what happens. If nothing else this will get the car through the summer until other decisions can be made. Thank you for your thoughts regarding the Harbor Freight pump because I was looking at that one.
@@Glenn_123 any updates on whether or not it lasted more than two weeks after the second application of stop leak?
How can you determine if it works if it's still leaking?
I like this guy's video because he tells it as it is.
Today, after 2 years of putting up with no AC, I used proper gauges to fill the system with pure gas, no sealer.
A garage, 2 years ago, told me a new compressor was needed (leaks between moving seals).
So I'll see what happens. It might leak out in 15 minutes. If so, I probably need a new compressor and other seals.
However, if it lasts longer I know it's a slow leak, like a slow puncture that can be topped up.
BTW can "stopleak" totally ruin the car's AC system?.
It lasted just two days. I suppose that tells me it's not a small leak. I think the compressor suggestion might be correct. Where I live, the car's AC is on every time you drive. Car is 16 and the AC packed in 2yrs ago. So, 14 years of constant AC use might just spring a leak in the compressor.
Tell you what, whenever I replied, it's still working in a very limited way. That is, if the outside temperature is lower than 24 centigrade, the AC system keeps things cool. However, at 27, 28° when the sun is shining strongly, no chance....the AC can't keep up. What does this tell me?.
1. I've lost gas after a full charge and the AC just manages a minimum setting. Thus it's a leak, that is like a slow puncture in a tyre. It works at low pressure.
2. I have a faulty expansion valve?.
3. Faulty compressor?.
You pulled a vacuum on the system first roght
@@marsmars9130 roght
Only thing I learned from it blowing cold for a day or so,is you have leaks..you need to add uv die to find leaks...than you can repair them...if compressor worked well for even an hour this tells me your compressor is good,but yes if leaks are coming from compressor internally then it may need replacing..
Vacuuming a leaky system will "boil off" the moisture there but at the same time will suck in moisture contained in the air leaking IN. So how DO you get moisture out of a leaking AC system?
Fix the leak
I don't get why the leaks even happen to begin with. Finding the leak sounds like a nightmare. Will you try reusing this gimmicky "sealer" again until it works fully?
I was hoping it would seal the leak!
me too!
I took my car to the shop. They put dye in it and I guess freon. It blew cold air for about a week then it stopped. Does that sound like a fast leak ? I'm not a mechanic at all when it comes to compressors or AC issues. And also, how long does the dye last before you can't tell anymore where the leaks are ?
It sounds like it didn't work in this case. Maybe for a smaller leak.
compressor jammed after 20 minutes ... 2000 USD of damages and 8 hours of work to fix everything ...
That is definitely a risk! Not common though. If you want it done right the first time take it to a pro mechanic who works with A/C.
That MacGyver staple move was nice!
Is it wish to use different freon in ac charging?
Why did you put three different gas. And how did you put all at once?
It's all the same gas R134a. One was a stop leak. The other two were just two different brands of R134a.
What can I do if my system doesn't hold any pressure at all? It has leaked all Freon and can't hold a thing.
will it damage the new compressor i installed if i try to run it and spray it with soapy water. Before taking it to get re-gassed?
You worried about damage from running it with no compressor oil?
@@BuddysDIY Thanks for the reply!
No it came pre-filled with the oil.
Because i didn't think to replace the two seals. i thought if running the a/c with out gas is okay, to test for leaks with a bit of soapy water.
As long as there is oil it should be fine. Now it may need a little bit if gas to actually circulate the gas. But I've ran compressors short term dry with no oil before and they lived. I think you'll be good
@@BuddysDIY Thanks man.
Have a good one.
great video, subscribed!
thank you for this vid!!
You're welcome!
Of it all leaks or up within about two weeks or less to need to make physical repairs like o-rings etc.. no leak sealer well fix that.. is only for very small leaks. Line in my car where the gas leaks or over two years.
Mine took a month to leak out
Sure would hate to fix it right. You should try transmission rebuild in a bottle next.
Fixing it right probably costs $500. Places charge $150-200 just to vacuum, refill, and put the dye in. Then another $200+ for the compressor, plus another $200 for labor to install it. I for one, drive a 22 year old car with 324K miles on it. Don't have $500 to fix the AC with.
@@aznnp77 If you drive a 22-year-old car with 324k on it and you still can't afford to fix it right, you might want to get some help with budgeting your money.
22years and 324k!! You are doing something right for a vehicle to run that long 👍
@@deewask1656 I fixed it. It was the AC Compressor clutch. I took the shim off the clutch and it works again. Free fix. But I know I'll have to replace the compressor eventually.
@@deewask1656 Yeah! Throwing money at it! It took 3 transmissions and 3 engine replacement/rebuilds to get this far.
Is it essential to hold the can upside down?
no. it isn't.
It's just to speed things up.
how about that pretty aggressive camshaft?
So if my clutch is spinning then the compressor is working? My clutch spins with the ac turned on or off
Not always, there is a valve inside the compressor which is replaceable on most cars, that is always an option, and usually get clogged and causes low side ac to rise drastically in pressure
I have a 04 Honda Accord can i do dat
Yes
Did you let it run during the wait times (15 mins & 1 hour)?
Does anybody tried to seal a leak that takes 5 -6 days to refill with freon, if can be sealed with this kind of products?? When is full mine bmw e39 from 2000, can grow pinguins.... but just for 5-6 days. Please help....
It works for the folks that make and sell it.
I have a 2013 XF and I can’t find the plug for the compressor. Any help?
Thank you.
How much for stop leak product?
I believe there is a link in the description
How can I get same of the stop leak,am in Ghana
What’s the plastic Walmart gauge for?
That shit don’t work never does
I have an 07 Dodge Caliber the AC was working fine for years. Then I had to have the alternator replaced in order to do that the shop had to move the AC compressor which involved interfering with the seals on the compressor which they replaced but then AC started leaking we thought that the seal is leaking because they were aftermarket instead of OEM I replace the seals with Lem seals they got the car working with the air conditioner working yesterday said that it was putting temperature out about 45° and I paid for the car and pick it up this morning and it's not producing any cold are all he says he can't find any leaks anywhere so now he's he's saying it's probably the evaporator coil in the dash and it's going to cost like $900 to repair. I don't have that kind of money. I don't know what's involved in taking this car apart myself I'm just wondering if an ACC lore is an option for me it took approximately all night to lose the ac refrigerant which is about right for the car it would sit overnight and lose the refrigerant I'm wondering if an AC stop leak component has any chance of fixing this or am I just screwed and have to replace the AC evaporator thing in dash
if a shop touched your compressor or ac anything to do other work its their fault they put their hands on it
like this if it worked before they touched it, now it doesnt they need to fix it
@@dsbanana420 problem is I cannot keep letting g them have my car. It's crazy hot, and my truck is not an ideal daily driver. I need my car on the road now,,,not three months from now
On my Ford escape mechanic is saying that there is a ac leak and that it will be a 2 day job cause is under the dash of the passenger side.bu the glove compartment. $1000 job. What you think?
Sounds like the evaporator, but I would get a 2nd & if possible a 3rd opinion. That is a big job that in most cases requires the whole dashboard to be removed, bit it depends on the particular vehicle
I always read (can't cite the source...too long ago) that you should not invert the containers which dumps liquid refrigerant into the system causing "temperature shock", or sending non compressable liquid straight to the compressor. Any thoughts?
In residential and commercial HVAC you do to make sure you get all the liquid refrigerant and minimal gas. In automotive you do the same thing but in those small cans you technically lightly shake them while upside down.
Apparently no one had any thoughts on this comment... I personally found this comment interesting, and now have to do some research on what you say
I have a slow leak in a 2000 Silverado. Blows cold for a few days. Just ordered the above spot leak. Will report back in a few weeks.
Did it work for you?
Sooo?
Sooo. Don't keep us hanging
mate
Your video was useful
How do i get this product am in Nigeria
You guys have cars in Nigeria? I thought you guys still rode cattle.
What make and model is that car
Chevy blazer
Will it fix a small compressor leak, it holds pressure for 3 to 5 days
Do you know where the hole is on the compressor?
Center o ring on compressor
@@edwardmartinez402 ya it deffinitely should seal that no issue.
Edward can you give us an update on how it worked for you since you have a very small leak?
@edward martinez update?
Because who needs to pull a vacuum? SMH.
Good info thanks
It would cool a lot better if you actually pulled a vacuum
I been doubtful since my fereon leaked in about a month or 2, and that's aggressive in my book. My dad had creasida 1991 and had to refill it's fereon only twice in 25 years of using it.
Just put one 30 mo Italian stop leak and hoping this works man.. I have been let down my Toyota. It was the best once upon a time.
Any updates?
Never turn freon bottle upside down when charging you are putting liquid in it and can knock your compressor out
It's not freon. And even the bottle of r134a says to shake it and move it up and down and side to side.
It is not a freon
When the can is almost empty. The instructions is on the can of stop leak.
Question : So for the last can . How do you know how much you are adding ?
Kinda just guess hold it for like 10-15 seconds and call it a day
If you shake the can by itself, you can tell how much is left. Half can is about 6oz.
Weight the can...
Use a freon pressure gage, it works like adding freon.
C
Dude u said it didn't work then u say it works. Lol it doesn't work
Waste of time video. Does it last though
DO NOT USE STOP LEAK
Yes it does suck it in
I believe the sticker on your car indicated using 1 lb of r134, which is equal to a volume of 12 oz
My reference shows 28oz. It also shows a high/low side pressure of 299psi/26psi with an ambient temperature of 80F, relative humidity of 60% & engine at 1500RPM.
With 28oz in her now I'm pretty close to right on the money!
Hi, I guess the point I was trying to make is that I think the sticker is describing the amount of r134a in the part number just above it. It describes a full can of any r134a perfectly but doesn't seem likely to be the fill spec for any auto a/c fill volume. That spec is probably found elsewhere.
Sorry, I just noticed the weight on the label in kg and that is actually 28 oz. It's just a coincidence that your spec is 1 lb and 12 oz which both describe a full can, but in this case the ounces is wt. and not volume. I'm working on an a/c leak as well and wish you well.
Yeah no problem at all. Just made a video on a condenser and changed the evaporator as well last week. If you have any questions or need some help I'll be happy to lend out whatever expertise I have. And you do the same brother. Stay healthy
16oz is a pound not 12
You’re not supposed to fill the Freon upside down
The cans I bought last year SAID to put the can upside down..
@@cubey yeah maybe the oil, defiantly not the Freon
@@JacobEcret oh my memory was fuzzy, it actually said to shake and rotate it between the 12 and 3 o'clock positions, not upside down. Look up SuperTech r134a from Walmart,$4.88 a can. My 87 F250 wasn't cold after 4 years of owning it so I recharged it last year. Worked great. Need to see if my 85 Ford E350 will hold vac before I try filling it since it's got basically no pressure on the low side. It's probably been 20 years since it was charged.
Its not freon, freon hasnt been used since the 90s
@@JacobEcret That isnt Freon soo....
I have 1 question. If you know that there's a huge leak and 15 minutes later it would be empty, its 1.) a waste of money and 2.) Its irresponsible to let it leak into the atmosphere. I know its just testing to see if it works but it should have been tested on a small leak or atleast a leak detector to test for a leak with a recovery unit on stand-by.
R134a does not harm the ozone layer like other refrigerants such as the old R-12.
no they dont ,,, waist of money ,,,, very very very rare if it does 99.9 percent chance it wont work
I’m trying to figure out if u can use the stop leak more than twice? Without messing anything up like clogging?
I know Ac stop leak is more likely to cause issues when there is moisture in the system. You really should evac your system before recharges! I do have a video on how to check where the leak is coming from! Did you see that one? Hopefully its a worn o-ring on a fitting! Best of luck!
A week and it drains out? I would say it's a waste of money and doesn't work.
Hopefully you see this and can reply. I have a leak on mine and put some refrigerant with UV dye in it and only place as if now I see glowing is the vents inside at dash. What would that be if so??
That’s your ac evaporator or the lines connected to it