Took my 2012 Rav 4 V6 to my mechanic today to change out the water pump and belt. It cost me $725 for parts and labor...I'm glad I had it done, this looks like a lot of work and I don't have some of these tools/equipment for this job.
This was the most useful video I found for replacing the water pump in my 2008 Toyota RAV4 V6. I took the exact steps that you outlined in the video and had a successful outcome after roughly 6 hours of cumulative work. It was tough but I was able to get it done even with having limited resources at my disposal. Thank you for taking the time to make this video, I greatly appreciate people like you who make things like this possible for the average individual.
I couldn't get the motor mount out until watching your video. Releasing the AC line is what was needed. Then I couldn't get the mount bracket off of the engine block. You showed where all the hidden bolts were. So a big thank you.
Thank you so much for your video. My husband and I had to replace the water pump on our RV 4. V6. I brought up your video, watched it then took it to my husband who is also an auto mechanic. We used the video as a guide and reference. Saved us some frustration. Thank you so much. Not done yet. Husband has to go to work.
Great video, I like that you show all the hidden nuts/bolts. Don't worry about not having all the torque specs for each nut and bolt... people watching this should go online and download the dealer repair manual which gives you all those details, but again, the dealer manual doesn't show you all the tips, tricks and issues you ran into which is extremely valuable to know. Saves time and aggravation.
Informative video. I used the Permatex black RTV Silicone instead of the gasket sealer as Toyota parts guy said it was more like the Toyota sealer adhesive. The fun was going from 8 ft-lb to 15 ft-lb tightening the 10 mm and 12 mm bolts on the water pump. The back bolt next to the water pump pulley was hardest to get off and on due to limited space. It would have been more helpful if you had listed all the torque specs needed for the water pump replacement.
Hi, I found your video is very helpful except the water pump torques For water pump bolt, per factory service manual, bolt A is 15 ft lb, bolt B and C are 81 in lb, you said all of these bolts are torqued 69 in lb and this confused me at the minute 10:16 What are the torque specs for those engine mounting nuts in your video at the minute 1:50. I could not find information about it. Thank you
Cussed Toyota the whole way. 16 bolts on water pump. 10 and 12 mm. I loosend the fuse box ( Rav 4), to get the mount out. You can clean the pump mounting surface with a piece of green scotchbrite pad. The coolant air bleed valve is on the thermostat housing.
Decent video, but you skipped a very important and annoying step, removing the tensioner pulley which is left hand thread, which makes sense but may not stand out immediately to the average diy person. Also the bolts don't have blue gasket maker or gray, they have blue loctite which is standard vibration resistant bolt glue, which is why all the 12mm bolts can't be spun out by hand once broken loose but the 10s can. If you look at the seal itself for the pump you can see it goes around the inside of all the bolts so no need to seal the threads, just a little blue loctite when they go back in. I'm still annoyed with Toyota about having to pull the tensioner as it only overlaps the very edge of one bolt...
We owned 2 RAV4 V6 s and I had to replace both pumps.. both were not easy jobs.. Last replacement was 2016 and my remaining 2010 Rav is making the sound of bad bearings again.. :(
Does it sound like a bunch of ball bearings smacking around? Like there are balls missing in the race? That's what I've got, but I've never heard bad bearings sound like that before.
@@davidryder3374 Each time there was a grinding sound coming from the front of the engine. This time the pump was leaking a little. I would buy an original Toyota pump. The last pump was a Dorman and failed. I also used some permatex water pump gasket sealer and let it set up over night before I filled it. I was more than evident that the bearing were bad when I spun the impeller.. Good Luck!
@@debbiekonkin5768 I did the job for a right around $400, including new belt, cooling system flush, new OEM pink coolant. The dealers wanted around $900 and I couldn't find one who had staff mechanics available for 2-3 weeks... I did it myself and kept the $500 on my pocket.. I wanted to take it in and get it done, couldn't wait..
@@debbiekonkin5768 I also did the thermostat. I would discourage anyone with decent mechanical skills fro talking this on... Saves a lot of money and If you take your time, do the surface prep and use purpose sealer, you know it's done right.
What's wrong with an original Toyota water pump that goes out after 14 years of service? At least it isn't a Ford, GMC, or Chrysler product where you have to change the water pump every other oil change.
Yeah there was a leak from somewhere and I wasn’t sure where it was coming from, it was actually gas the thermostat gasket that was a cheap one and wasn’t installed right. The water pump was fine but I replaced it for peace of mind
@@StishFicks Wow I can't believe what you said. I've owned the three domestics and a couple of Toyotas and a Hyundai. I've had more problems with my 2GR-FE RAV4 than any other. Love the power and towing capacity for a small SUV. It's come with a price though. I've never pushed it. It seems that the water pump is a weak link on this engine.🙁
Yep, I'm right in the middle of changing mine and wanted some help. He left out the actual removal of the pump. I appreciate the effort, but people need details.
I thought it was fine, don't waste my time with too many details, just show me where the hidden bolts/nuts are and what you had issues with... I'll take it from there. Great video!
Took my 2012 Rav 4 V6 to my mechanic today to change out the water pump and belt. It cost me $725 for parts and labor...I'm glad I had it done, this looks like a lot of work and I don't have some of these tools/equipment for this job.
Hi! Did they remove engine to replace the waterpump? Did they replace thermostat? Thnx
This was the most useful video I found for replacing the water pump in my 2008 Toyota RAV4 V6. I took the exact steps that you outlined in the video and had a successful outcome after roughly 6 hours of cumulative work. It was tough but I was able to get it done even with having limited resources at my disposal. Thank you for taking the time to make this video, I greatly appreciate people like you who make things like this possible for the average individual.
Thank you!
I couldn't get the motor mount out until watching your video. Releasing the AC line is what was needed. Then I couldn't get the mount bracket off of the engine block. You showed where all the hidden bolts were. So a big thank you.
No problem!
Thank you so much for your video. My husband and I had to replace the water pump on our RV 4. V6. I brought up your video, watched it then took it to my husband who is also an auto mechanic. We used the video as a guide and reference. Saved us some frustration. Thank you so much. Not done yet. Husband has to go to work.
Thank you!
Great video, I like that you show all the hidden nuts/bolts. Don't worry about not having all the torque specs for each nut and bolt... people watching this should go online and download the dealer repair manual which gives you all those details, but again, the dealer manual doesn't show you all the tips, tricks and issues you ran into which is extremely valuable to know. Saves time and aggravation.
Outstanding video, this walkthrough saved my butt
Good video Thanks,I may need change ,some day, 2011 Rav 4,
Informative video. I used the Permatex black RTV Silicone instead of the gasket sealer as Toyota parts guy said it was more like the Toyota sealer adhesive. The fun was going from 8 ft-lb to 15 ft-lb tightening the 10 mm and 12 mm bolts on the water pump. The back bolt next to the water pump pulley was hardest to get off and on due to limited space. It would have been more helpful if you had listed all the torque specs needed for the water pump replacement.
amigo -enjoyed- good -🌟
Or you can use a longer screw driver in between the bolts for the pulley
Hi, I found your video is very helpful except the water pump torques
For water pump bolt, per factory service manual, bolt A is 15 ft lb, bolt B and C are 81 in lb, you said all of these bolts are torqued 69 in lb and this confused me at the minute 10:16
What are the torque specs for those engine mounting nuts in your video at the minute 1:50. I could not find information about it. Thank you
Cussed Toyota the whole way. 16 bolts on water pump. 10 and 12 mm. I loosend the fuse box ( Rav 4), to get the mount out. You can clean the pump mounting surface with a piece of green scotchbrite pad. The coolant air bleed valve is on the thermostat housing.
Decent video, but you skipped a very important and annoying step, removing the tensioner pulley which is left hand thread, which makes sense but may not stand out immediately to the average diy person. Also the bolts don't have blue gasket maker or gray, they have blue loctite which is standard vibration resistant bolt glue, which is why all the 12mm bolts can't be spun out by hand once broken loose but the 10s can. If you look at the seal itself for the pump you can see it goes around the inside of all the bolts so no need to seal the threads, just a little blue loctite when they go back in.
I'm still annoyed with Toyota about having to pull the tensioner as it only overlaps the very edge of one bolt...
We couldn't see the most important think : unbolting the water pump.
We owned 2 RAV4 V6 s and I had to replace both pumps.. both were not easy jobs.. Last replacement was 2016 and my remaining 2010 Rav is making the sound of bad bearings again.. :(
Does it sound like a bunch of ball bearings smacking around? Like there are balls missing in the race? That's what I've got, but I've never heard bad bearings sound like that before.
@@davidryder3374 Each time there was a grinding sound coming from the front of the engine. This time the pump was leaking a little. I would buy an original Toyota pump. The last pump was a Dorman and failed. I also used some permatex water pump gasket sealer and let it set up over night before I filled it. I was more than evident that the bearing were bad when I spun the impeller.. Good Luck!
@@debbiekonkin5768 I did the job for a right around $400, including new belt, cooling system flush, new OEM pink coolant. The dealers wanted around $900 and I couldn't find one who had staff mechanics available for 2-3 weeks... I did it myself and kept the $500 on my pocket.. I wanted to take it in and get it done, couldn't wait..
@@debbiekonkin5768 I also did the thermostat. I would discourage anyone with decent mechanical skills fro talking this on... Saves a lot of money and If you take your time, do the surface prep and use purpose sealer, you know it's done right.
But remember… Toyotas are sooooo ‘reliable’.
What was the mileage when the waterpump failed?
It actually wasn’t the water pump, I found out later that it was the thermostat gasket but I wanted to change them both anyways
Did your water pump come with a rubber or paper gasket?
It was a metal gasket with thin ribber on each side
Keep in mind… Toyotas are soooo “reliable”.
What's wrong with an original Toyota water pump that goes out after 14 years of service? At least it isn't a Ford, GMC, or Chrysler product where you have to change the water pump every other oil change.
Yeah there was a leak from somewhere and I wasn’t sure where it was coming from, it was actually gas the thermostat gasket that was a cheap one and wasn’t installed right. The water pump was fine but I replaced it for peace of mind
@@StishFicks Wow I can't believe what you said. I've owned the three domestics and a couple of Toyotas and a Hyundai. I've had more problems with my 2GR-FE RAV4 than any other. Love the power and towing capacity for a small SUV. It's come with a price though. I've never pushed it. It seems that the water pump is a weak link on this engine.🙁
Useless !! All talk , no actual filming of work being done !!! Boring !!!
Yep, I'm right in the middle of changing mine and wanted some help. He left out the actual removal of the pump. I appreciate the effort, but people need details.
I thought it was fine, don't waste my time with too many details, just show me where the hidden bolts/nuts are and what you had issues with... I'll take it from there. Great video!