This is the most helpful video in the field. There is lots of AC igniter on sale nowadays. Sadly, they do not come with an instruction anymore and I cannot find any other video/article talking about earthing, which is so important, and many costumers got turned away.
Thanks for recording your process and putting it on TH-cam! I really needed to see this and I just happened to stumble across your video! It must be the Repair Gods :D
It should work fine if you ground all spares. It will actually also WORK if you don't ground either spare. They just recommend it for safety and so do I. I hope that helps.
Prices for those modules are all over the place. I would have thought they would be about the same no matter who made them. Either way thanks for the excellent video, including the commercial style restaurant kitchen ignitor in the beginning. :-)
Thanks for the video. What do you suggest if my 3/16th head screws are rotten on top and won't take my screw driver? BTW, my problem is that the spark is going sideways not to the top, therefore taking longer to light the burner.
I have a Magic Chef that has one burner lighting OK and the other 3 just click and don't ignite. I'm going to clean the igniters but if that doesn't fix it could this still be the igniter module even though we hear clicking?
Don't trust your ears. Trust your eyes. If even one ignitor clicks, it's far too difficult to pinpoint the source of the click. If you don't clearly see a healthy spark at the burner you are trying to light during the ignition phase (clicking), then your spark module likely has an issue. You should also simply try to manually light it to confirm it is getting gas normally. If you can not manually light it or you do see a healthy spark and have no flame ignition, start by thoroughly cleaning the burner. If that doesn't help, stop using the unit because your valve or gas distribution may have a clog or a leak.
@@ScubaMoto Thanks for that! I worked on the cooktop yesterday. Cleaned all the burners and igniters with alcohol and toothbrush, hit the igniters with some 0000 steel wool, made sure the burner holes were open. Then I found that if I connected any of the non functional burners to the one terminal of the igniter module where the good burner was, they all lit like gangbusters. So. Bad module. Ordered one from Bezos that says compatible. Probably not OEM for the price but we'll see how it goes.
I have the Frigidaire model of this stove. Stove arrived from Retailer with only 3 of 5 burners working. The two that don't work have no spark. Lose wire? Bad at the burner? Ideas anyone. Sadly I did not get it fixed while stove was under warranty.
Bryan Garey: Do you know the age of the stove? You could have damaged igniters but it is likely that your spark module is failing. That's how they start to fail; the coil gets weak and can't support all five burners. The stove in the video started with 2 of the 5 not working, then they all went. A quick test will confirm a bad spark module and also rule out failed igniters. Swap the igniter wires at the spark module and see if the same burners are not working OR if the problem follows the wire swap that you made. My guess is the failure will follow the wire swap, thus confirming a failed spark module. I hope that helps.
does this module affect the oven ignition? My igniter won't power up, even after replacement. Doesn't seem to have power to it. The schematic for the for my (similar) Frigidaire model shows a wire going to the "igniter module"
No. This module is only for the top burners and it is much simpler than the oven module since its power supply is controlled by us (the users) when we turn the knobs. The oven igniter control module is more complex as it needs to continuously re-ignite the oven to maintain whatever temperature you've set. It is located in the upper back of the stove under the metal back plates. If you open the back you may get lucky and see something obvious but it is more likely needing to be replaced. You have already ruled out the igniter by replacing it. The control modules typically can be found for just under $100 depending on your appliance model number. I hope that helps and good luck with it.
I have a Frigidaire stove that looks just like the one in your video, with the 5 burners. If I try to light each burner, only the two back burners light, while the 2 front and the one center burners do not. I have tried to let the gas flow while using a different burner to attempt to get a spark, and that did not work, so does that mean my igniter switch is still ok? Is it possible for 2 burners to light and 3 not to light if the spark modulator is bad? Is there anything else that could be wrong that I need to look into? I have been trying to figure this out for a long time now, but haven't gotten it figured out.
Since it's always the same three burners then it's not the switch harness. Start by making sure it's clean between the igniter post and the burner. I have to assume you are not seeing a spark at the three igniters that won't light. If so, then this sounds like how the spark modules start to go bad so you would replace it as shown in the video. It's unusual for three igniters to fail at the same time, but It could be the three igniters have failed (the metal posts surrounded by white porcelain). You can test that by swapping the wire leads at two igniters and see if the problem follows the wire or if the same igniter still fails with a working wire. You can do this at the spark module. If the same igniter fails with the swap, then the igniters are bad. If it follows the wire then the spark module is bad (most likely).
Thank you for making this video! This is super helpful. What do you do if you don't remember the configuration of stove wires to terminals on the old spark module? Does it matter which stove wires are connected to which terminals on the spark module?
You're welcome. I'm glad it helped. I wouldn't worry. The igniters all draw the same current and all knobs trigger the spark module to activate all igniters simultaneously. Turn any knob and they all spark at the same time regardless of which knob is turned. Congrats on a good repair. I hope that helps.
xulescu: I have seen several instruction sheets for these and they all recommend grounding the 6th unused terminal to the stove chassis. It may be fine to use another but I can't think of a reason not to use the 6th.
@@ScubaMoto What I don't get is wouldn't directly connecting the output to the chassis like that (essentially shorting the 2 'electrodes' needed for a spark) effectively send 20000 volts to the appliance body guaranteeing you get shocked or the circuit breakers trip? What am I missing?
xulescu: It does seem a bit counter intuitive. But by grounding it, it cannot try to spark. I'm not sure how much power is behind these sparks but all stoves should be grounded, so a spark from an unused port is more of an ignition hazard than a grounded port.
Thank you for the video. I believe both my spark ignition module and the small white spark module are bad. I've switched the wires on the bad spark module with a port that is sending good spark to another burner and i get nothing. I've also swapped a good spark burner with the suspected bad port and also get nothing. So likely a failure of both. Problem is, I can't find the white spark module anywhere. I have your model oven. Any ideas?
Wes Singleton: I'm glad the video helped. This top igniter will likely work amzn.to/31OChgd . But I've noticed that a failing spark module can cause some strange things. You may find that a fresh spark module may resolve sporadic top igniter issues. I hope this helped.
I have the same model. The front left has a weak intermittent spark. I called an appliance person, he replaced the ignitor electrode, it didn’t fix it, then spark ignitor switch harness and the problem still has not gone away. What would you suggest?
Felipe de Mello: The symptoms you describe sound like a failing spark module, what I replaced in this video. Spark modules often fail in sections. You could switch wires at the module with a burner that works to see if the problem moves to the other burner. If one outlet has failed, the rest will follow. The one in the video started failing with one burner and then progressed. I hope that helps.
It might seem strange but that is normal and it means the spark module is working correctly. Any knob will signal the spark module to ignite ALL BURNERS. But only those with gas flowing (valve open) will light.
@@ScubaMoto Thanks a million for your response,I really appreciate it.What makes this concerning to me is the fact that instead of the burner to light up after the igniter sparks,I was actually trying to light up the left front burner,there was fire all around the left burners front and back and as a matter of fact I have to horriedly put out the fire and after everything there was a black burnt mark on the left igniters front and back.I removed the top plate and checked the connection underneath maybe there is a joint that is not properly connected where gas might be leaking but there is nothing like that.Just now I was able to see another one which I tried and to my surprise it is only the igniter at the right rear (small one) that is sparking when I turned all the five (5) knobs.So is it a normal thing for all the igniters to come to life and be sparking when it is just one knob that is turned or the exact knob that is turned.I will sincerely definitely still appreciate your further assistance on this issue.Thanks and I look forward to hearing from you.Wishing you all the very best.
It sounds like your stove may have a problem with gas distribution and/or leaks. It could be as simple as the burner heads needing a good cleaning. You describe "fire all around". If a good cleaning does not solve this; for safety reasons, I must recommend not using it until you can have the stove inspected for possible leaks in the burners.
What if you don't hear any clicks at all. this happens randomly to us. The burners will work fine for a few months and then all of a sudden, there is no clicking and sound and nothing lights. We use the lighter for a few days and then out of nowhere, the clicking starts again and everything seems to work fine. For a few weeks or months and then it happens again. I am just afraid that one time, it will stop and never come back. Do you have a suggestion for us? Thanks
It sounds like wiring is worth checking with the switch harness. Each control knob has a switch that it controls and they are all connected with a wire harness. A new switch harness is about the same price as the spark module. But if it was mine, I would first try taking it apart, checking all the harness wiring and cleaning each switch with a terminal cleaner like Deoxit and see if that helps. Good luck with it.
valleycowgirl95: That's just how the one in the video began to fail. First a couple of the igniters stopped sparking. I cleaned the igniters to see if it would help but it did not. Eventually, they all failed. This is typical of a failing spark module. I hope that helps.
It sounds like your knob switch wiring harness is worth checking. Each control knob has a switch that it controls and they are all connected with a wire harness. A new switch harness is about the same price as a spark module. But if it was mine, I would first try taking it apart, checking all the harness wiring and cleaning each switch with a terminal cleaner like Deoxit and see if that helps. Good luck with it.
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
This is the most helpful video in the field. There is lots of AC igniter on sale nowadays. Sadly, they do not come with an instruction anymore and I cannot find any other video/article talking about earthing, which is so important, and many costumers got turned away.
I'm glad the video helped. Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for recording your process and putting it on TH-cam! I really needed to see this and I just happened to stumble across your video! It must be the Repair Gods :D
Johan Niles: I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for the comment.
Very good video on taking this stove top apart.
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for the video. I am replacing a 4 spark module. If i have a 6 spark module do i just Earth the sixth one and leave one empty?
It should work fine if you ground all spares. It will actually also WORK if you don't ground either spare. They just recommend it for safety and so do I. I hope that helps.
@@ScubaMoto Many thanks from Cyprus
I've got Hotpot Ultima HUG61 and oven is ok but all 4 top ones can't get any spark.Let try .Thanks mate
Excellent, excellent video and clear instructions!
I'm glad it helped. Thanks for the comment.
Prices for those modules are all over the place. I would have thought they would be about the same no matter who made them. Either way thanks for the excellent video, including the commercial style restaurant kitchen ignitor in the beginning. :-)
Totally agree! I keep my commercial ignitor handy just in case. Thanks for the comment.
how to repair the ignite it rot and fall inside the stoves so I have to light is with
a lighter
Thanks for the video. What do you suggest if my 3/16th head screws are rotten on top and won't take my screw driver? BTW, my problem is that the spark is going sideways not to the top, therefore taking longer to light the burner.
My oven doesn’t have the clicking noise. Would that still be the spark module?
Most likely. If none of the switches ignite a spark with the stove plugged in, my first choice is spark module.
I have a Magic Chef that has one burner lighting OK and the other 3 just click and don't ignite. I'm going to clean the igniters but if that doesn't fix it could this still be the igniter module even though we hear clicking?
Don't trust your ears. Trust your eyes. If even one ignitor clicks, it's far too difficult to pinpoint the source of the click. If you don't clearly see a healthy spark at the burner you are trying to light during the ignition phase (clicking), then your spark module likely has an issue. You should also simply try to manually light it to confirm it is getting gas normally. If you can not manually light it or you do see a healthy spark and have no flame ignition, start by thoroughly cleaning the burner. If that doesn't help, stop using the unit because your valve or gas distribution may have a clog or a leak.
@@ScubaMoto Thanks for that! I worked on the cooktop yesterday. Cleaned all the burners and igniters with alcohol and toothbrush, hit the igniters with some 0000 steel wool, made sure the burner holes were open. Then I found that if I connected any of the non functional burners to the one terminal of the igniter module where the good burner was, they all lit like gangbusters. So. Bad module. Ordered one from Bezos that says compatible. Probably not OEM for the price but we'll see how it goes.
Excellent tutorial, Thank you
You're welcome. Thanks for the feedback.
I have the Frigidaire model of this stove. Stove arrived from Retailer with only 3 of 5 burners working. The two that don't work have no spark. Lose wire? Bad at the burner? Ideas anyone. Sadly I did not get it fixed while stove was under warranty.
Bryan Garey: Do you know the age of the stove? You could have damaged igniters but it is likely that your spark module is failing. That's how they start to fail; the coil gets weak and can't support all five burners. The stove in the video started with 2 of the 5 not working, then they all went. A quick test will confirm a bad spark module and also rule out failed igniters. Swap the igniter wires at the spark module and see if the same burners are not working OR if the problem follows the wire swap that you made. My guess is the failure will follow the wire swap, thus confirming a failed spark module. I hope that helps.
does this module affect the oven ignition? My igniter won't power up, even after replacement. Doesn't seem to have power to it. The schematic for the for my (similar) Frigidaire model shows a wire going to the "igniter module"
No. This module is only for the top burners and it is much simpler than the oven module since its power supply is controlled by us (the users) when we turn the knobs. The oven igniter control module is more complex as it needs to continuously re-ignite the oven to maintain whatever temperature you've set. It is located in the upper back of the stove under the metal back plates. If you open the back you may get lucky and see something obvious but it is more likely needing to be replaced. You have already ruled out the igniter by replacing it. The control modules typically can be found for just under $100 depending on your appliance model number. I hope that helps and good luck with it.
The sixth (6) unused igniter terminal was grounded to the appliance frame???
Ted Lahm: Yes. When they come with instructions, the extra (or sixth) output is to be grounded on a five burner stove as shown in the video.
I have a Frigidaire stove that looks just like the one in your video, with the 5 burners. If I try to light each burner, only the two back burners light, while the 2 front and the one center burners do not. I have tried to let the gas flow while using a different burner to attempt to get a spark, and that did not work, so does that mean my igniter switch is still ok? Is it possible for 2 burners to light and 3 not to light if the spark modulator is bad? Is there anything else that could be wrong that I need to look into? I have been trying to figure this out for a long time now, but haven't gotten it figured out.
Since it's always the same three burners then it's not the switch harness. Start by making sure it's clean between the igniter post and the burner. I have to assume you are not seeing a spark at the three igniters that won't light. If so, then this sounds like how the spark modules start to go bad so you would replace it as shown in the video. It's unusual for three igniters to fail at the same time, but It could be the three igniters have failed (the metal posts surrounded by white porcelain). You can test that by swapping the wire leads at two igniters and see if the problem follows the wire or if the same igniter still fails with a working wire. You can do this at the spark module. If the same igniter fails with the swap, then the igniters are bad. If it follows the wire then the spark module is bad (most likely).
Thank you for making this video! This is super helpful. What do you do if you don't remember the configuration of stove wires to terminals on the old spark module? Does it matter which stove wires are connected to which terminals on the spark module?
You're welcome. I'm glad it helped. I wouldn't worry. The igniters all draw the same current and all knobs trigger the spark module to activate all igniters simultaneously. Turn any knob and they all spark at the same time regardless of which knob is turned. Congrats on a good repair. I hope that helps.
Hi, great video! Can any of those outputs be used for grounding or is it something specific to that 6th one? How was the previous one grounded? Thanks
xulescu: I have seen several instruction sheets for these and they all recommend grounding the 6th unused terminal to the stove chassis. It may be fine to use another but I can't think of a reason not to use the 6th.
@@ScubaMoto What I don't get is wouldn't directly connecting the output to the chassis like that (essentially shorting the 2 'electrodes' needed for a spark) effectively send 20000 volts to the appliance body guaranteeing you get shocked or the circuit breakers trip? What am I missing?
xulescu: It does seem a bit counter intuitive. But by grounding it, it cannot try to spark. I'm not sure how much power is behind these sparks but all stoves should be grounded, so a spark from an unused port is more of an ignition hazard than a grounded port.
Thank you for the video. I believe both my spark ignition module and the small white spark module are bad. I've switched the wires on the bad spark module with a port that is sending good spark to another burner and i get nothing. I've also swapped a good spark burner with the suspected bad port and also get nothing. So likely a failure of both. Problem is, I can't find the white spark module anywhere. I have your model oven. Any ideas?
Wes Singleton: I'm glad the video helped. This top igniter will likely work amzn.to/31OChgd . But I've noticed that a failing spark module can cause some strange things. You may find that a fresh spark module may resolve sporadic top igniter issues. I hope this helped.
@@ScubaMoto thanks! I'll give it a try.
I have the same model. The front left has a weak intermittent spark. I called an appliance person, he replaced the ignitor electrode, it didn’t fix it, then spark ignitor switch harness and the problem still has not gone away. What would you suggest?
Felipe de Mello: The symptoms you describe sound like a failing spark module, what I replaced in this video. Spark modules often fail in sections. You could switch wires at the module with a burner that works to see if the problem moves to the other burner. If one outlet has failed, the rest will follow. The one in the video started failing with one burner and then progressed. I hope that helps.
Thank you,very well done.
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment.
nicely done! new sub here!
phil: I'm glad the video helped and thanks for the sub! 👍
All the igniters on my gas range start to spark even if it is one that I turn the knob,so what can be the problem and how can I get it fixed .
It might seem strange but that is normal and it means the spark module is working correctly. Any knob will signal the spark module to ignite ALL BURNERS. But only those with gas flowing (valve open) will light.
@@ScubaMoto Thanks a million for your response,I really appreciate it.What makes this concerning to me is the fact that instead of the burner to light up after the igniter sparks,I was actually trying to light up the left front burner,there was fire all around the left burners front and back and as a matter of fact I have to horriedly put out the fire and after everything there was a black burnt mark on the left igniters front and back.I removed the top plate and checked the connection underneath maybe there is a joint that is not properly connected where gas might be leaking but there is nothing like that.Just now I was able to see another one which I tried and to my surprise it is only the igniter at the right rear (small one) that is sparking when I turned all the five (5) knobs.So is it a normal thing for all the igniters to come to life and be sparking when it is just one knob that is turned or the exact knob that is turned.I will sincerely definitely still appreciate your further assistance on this issue.Thanks and I look forward to hearing from you.Wishing you all the very best.
It sounds like your stove may have a problem with gas distribution and/or leaks. It could be as simple as the burner heads needing a good cleaning. You describe "fire all around". If a good cleaning does not solve this; for safety reasons, I must recommend not using it until you can have the stove inspected for possible leaks in the burners.
What if you don't hear any clicks at all. this happens randomly to us. The burners will work fine for a few months and then all of a sudden, there is no clicking and sound and nothing lights. We use the lighter for a few days and then out of nowhere, the clicking starts again and everything seems to work fine. For a few weeks or months and then it happens again. I am just afraid that one time, it will stop and never come back. Do you have a suggestion for us? Thanks
It sounds like wiring is worth checking with the switch harness. Each control knob has a switch that it controls and they are all connected with a wire harness. A new switch harness is about the same price as the spark module. But if it was mine, I would first try taking it apart, checking all the harness wiring and cleaning each switch with a terminal cleaner like Deoxit and see if that helps. Good luck with it.
@@ScubaMoto Awesome thank you for the advice! I’ll start there.
Great Video.
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the comment.
What if it's only a few that don't spark but do click, and they've already been cleaned
valleycowgirl95: That's just how the one in the video began to fail. First a couple of the igniters stopped sparking. I cleaned the igniters to see if it would help but it did not. Eventually, they all failed. This is typical of a failing spark module. I hope that helps.
Changed that and still not sparking on all of burners 🤦♂️ have to turn on the back burner knob to make the front igniter spark 🤔
It sounds like your knob switch wiring harness is worth checking. Each control knob has a switch that it controls and they are all connected with a wire harness. A new switch harness is about the same price as a spark module. But if it was mine, I would first try taking it apart, checking all the harness wiring and cleaning each switch with a terminal cleaner like Deoxit and see if that helps. Good luck with it.
Yup that seems to be it i swapped them and that seemed to do the trick 👍🏼 might try the cleaner and see if that helps. Thanks.
😂👌
s