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Building A Reducer | CCVM Build | First Time Brazing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 มิ.ย. 2017
- Seeing as I have never brazed anything I thought this may be a good place to start. This probably isn't going to be pretty, it sure as hell isn't a tutorial. Im betting I am going to learn a whole lot though.
So help me out and give me a few tips and tricks. Or learn along with me. Either way im getting started on my CCVM build.
Don’t forget to check the comments, that’s where the real magic happens.
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Hats off to you for having the balls to try something new, and putting it on TH-cam so others can learn. You didn’t do horrible for a first try!
The tip on what to do with the small pieces that get to hot to handle. STOP before it gets that dang short. when you get down to the last third i f the rod while you are brazing to move the heat away and let your rod stick to work. Then get a new rod touch it to the end add a little heat till they melt together. Then go back to working on the brazing you work. Hope that helps I've been doing that since my Father showed me. Also if you want a better braze you would need a better torch. A T100 victor torch and small bottles would help a lot. Keep the videos coming they are fun to watch.
ah right, then its locked in place and not moving all over when you are trying to join em. Nice, I like it!
Yeah I know I am way underpowered with that torch. Perhaps one day I will upgrade. Right now resorces I have are going into build materials then ingredients for first few runs :) I also desperately need some upgrades for filming gear . . . .after that . . . . new torch ;)
I solder stainless and copper & stainless to stainless together all the time. The trick is the right flux and solder. Use Stay Clean Flux and and Stay Brite Silver Bearing Solder. This stuff I even use on stainless to stainless solder jobs and it is very strong. You did an awesome job looking forward to what comes next..
Thanks for the tips man! I couldnt find that solder here, so I went with brazing instead for now. I want to try soft solder soon too though!
By the way, checked your channel out. Looks awesome! Guessing you have a few nice tips that may help out over there!
@MrCoop thanks I was exactly looking for the flux recco after 3 failed attempts with normal flux last night. @StillIt thanks for all the vids. fellow hd.org member glad to see you doing this and being a great example of safe/responsible fun. appreciate your efforts to make this legit everywhere.
Still It I know I’m 2 years too late and Australian, Bunnings had their store brand “plumbing solder” which is lead free, 3.5% silver, and mitre 10 had some brand name plumbing solder
10 4 on the stay bright. That shit will make turds sick to stainless
It's fine to use the same stuff when plumbing home water lines for something like this with stainless? Awesome! I got some 3in copper pipe from a recent repair and some kegs!
btw a hacksaw will go through that tube in like 6 seconds instead of a dremel
great tips thanks . never thought of using socket adapter to flare a tube. brilliant
Love the nail polish, very pretty!
HAHA, didn't even think about it. 2-year-old daughter . . . .enough explanation?
I’m watching becouse learning from what you have figured out and I love your videos thank you from California usa
lol yes, i too noticed the nail polish. nice touch. for never brazing not bad. you may have been better off when putting the ferrel on to braze it on the inside. then you don't have to worry about the clamp. another trick is if you have a ledge or part to braze. break of what you need and place it around the area and heat it from the other side. the rod should melt and the heat should pull it through. remember also, when you get to the end of the rod, heat up the tip and stick it to a full rod. that way you can maximize your brazing rods. impressive though for your first time. plus it does look cool. keep em coming.
Dude, hahaha! I actually ment to ask in the video "how do you use the rest of the rod when it gets to small to hold?"
2 YO daughter ;) Explain it? lol
So you would heat it from the outside and put the rod up from the bottom of the ferrule Then use the heat on the outside to pull it through the joint? Hmmmm, may give that a go!
have a daughter myself. been there. 😀 i get the question alot on what to do on the end. another bit would be to just tap the area with your rod. you'll know you have it at the right temp if it melts on contact. then use the heat to stay ahead of the rod. it should pull towards the heat. but for a first time u did good
Great videos I like all the mistakes and shows ppl how it can all go wrong and it takes experience. Remember the heat is what moves your solder not the stick. You want to let it flow like alcohol on tissue 😉
Great job with safety - the bricks behind the torch. Simple enough but not every takes those extra few minutes to Do it. A cookie sheet works in tight areas too...just saying. If ya don't have a pipe cutter style tool , a chop saw makes a straight/90° cut. Also a hacksaw and a radiator clamp to keep the blade straight.
Great video thanks for posting..
To clean it up, I've used a brillo pad and just scrubbed. Just a few bucks and it saves on gas. Comes out nice and shiny and clean. Anyways, keep it up!
+Jesse Howard yeah that's what I have been doing and soaking in citric acid. It was pushingy patience with some of that second hand stuff though haha
Dude that was awesome. I don't think I'd be brave enough to show my soldering. Especially that time I used a culinary torch, ha ha:-) I appreciate you taking us on the unvarnished journey through learning this stuff. Can't wait for the next vid!
BTW, I don't think that shade of pink is for you. Maybe something in a darker cherry, LOL:-)
hahahah I will pass that onto the little miss. . . . .something tells me im not getting away from the pink though ;)
Yeah, dude I almost decided that it wasnt worth showing (before recording). But in the end figgered why the hell not. One of the biggest problems with written based stuff is not being able to SEE examples. Its easy to describe "heat untill its read hot" or "just use a little bit" or "you dont need to move to fast" etc etc. But if you cant see anything there is no perspective. So if this gets used as a "look at this video, see how he screwed up at this point. He should have done this instead . . . . " then its worth it.
. . . . also sometimes as a newb its also just nice to know other people are going through the same shit haha.
i think thats why you're going to do well. you are where many of us where and none of us had the gumshun to do what you are doing right now. documenting the journey. it's great to see and i think will spark some interesting discusions. keep up the great work
From what I read on the internet when brazing stainless you want to use I good quality filler rod with a high amount of silver and you want to use a liquid flux, oh and make sure your filler rod or solder doesn't contain lead, as it would be bad.... Any great video thumbs up!!! Lol
Thanks dude. Yeah . . . . I cheaped out and went with 15% not 40% silver haha. Im sure that would have made it much easier!
very nice job.. thumbs up 👍
I'm pretty sure you should heat the stainless mostly, because the copper heats quicker than stainless and the copper is much thinner
Brazzing #1 most important tip is... Keep the job hot and flame over the Brazzing rod/wire and it sh go on like melted butter 👍🏻🇦🇺
So which would be a better job and which would be easier, soldering or brazing? This question is for everyone not just Jessy😁 Always enjoy your videos Jessy. Sláinte ☘️
Thanks for the vid and a great channel ... where did you get the 2in tri clover ferrules from? ... I can only find "butt weld" ones in Auz and 2in copper will not go over them.
I can tell you are a good dad by the pink nail polish
Haha, I'm guessing you had your nails done at some point too.
@@StillIt 👍
Hey man when ever i try a new building/fabricating craft i always practice on some offcut material first until im semi happy with my competence level!
Yeah I hear you, this is basically what this is. I'm making this piece for the hell of it and it has 0 structural impact 👍🏻🥃
@@StillIt cool! love your videos just going through them now trying to understand all the terminology! Your Rum video got me keen!
Just a pointer, the tip of the flame is what you want to use try to keep the flame back ...attaching copper to stainless steel is tricky but good job
+CopperElite thanks man!!!
I'm New And i Like The Straight Forwardness You Put Out So Much That I Have Went Back To Watch You From the Beginning. Hey Everybody Starts Somewhere In Everything. True Some Are A Bit More Talented Than Others, That Being Said Your Solder Is Not Bad For Just Starting. Only One Thing I Would Point Out - When You Start Any Job It's Not A Bad Idea To Use A Practice Piece First In Case You Mess-up Then Your Actual Piece Is Still Ok.
Cheers
John
Oh BTW I'm In The USA Where Even Owning A Still Is Illegal So The Piece Together Type Is Really Advantageous For Me. Plus I Have Different Size Columns This Way To Make Different Spirits.
Thanks for the advice mate appreciate it! Keep on keeping on mate :)
You did a pretty good job for a beginner keep practicing you will get better.
+Thomas edwin thanks man. let's face it this one was ugly! But the ones I did at the end turned out pretty well. I am definitely still a beginner, but at least now I can be confident of success when I braze haha.
You can get almost anything on flebay, delivered right to your door. I never brazed anything I always used Oatey lead free safe solder. I always worked on house plumbing so I'm pretty good at it. I have a 15.5 gallon beer keg for my boiler, with a 8 inch ferrule fitting on top and a 8 inch ferrule cap with a 3 inch hole and ferrule to attach a 3" x 8' reflux column. I have been trying different dephlagmator methods. I have a few photos if your interested I'm at thomasedwin13@gmail.com
+Thomas edwin always interested in seeing stills! I definitely need to teach my self to solder too!
Heh heh, was watching this in the workshop ... one of my workmates was looking over my shoulder and started screaming at around the 8 minute mark like he just caught his nuts in the vice! :o)
Good on you for having a crack fella - it only gets better the more you do ... AND you chose a hard one to start on - brazing stainless to copper can be a right bastard at the best of times, takes a lot of heat too (-a lot of folks will use oxy-acetylene for it).
Flux is your friend ! :o)
HAHAHAHA
Yeah dude, that wasn't pretty. I like to think I have learnt a bit since then ;)
Get flux!
Okay so I know that I am like 4 years late and I may be asking a stupid question, but wouldn't "tining" your stainless fitting first help in this situation? As it would basically allow you to attach the joint from both the inside and the outside of the joint at the same time.
I saw this one guy do a braze by making a ring of solder which he put in place, heated until it melted filling the void. Will try to find the video.
I have heard similar suggestions actually. And seen something similar for small plumbing style joints. Be interested to see it for something like this too!
haha could do! But honestly I kinda want to learn.
I want to get to the "oh shit that could be a good idea! Lets just knock one up and give it a go on this run!" stage.
That and I think its kinda cool for other noobs to see what its like to try and do it your self. Will check the link thanks man!
Go check out "Rate my weld" they mark little people out of welds.
dude not bad for never doing it b4
but there is 1 thing u need to know
there is more than 1 way to skin a rabbit and just because I can do it this way doesn't mean that you can. i guess what I am saying is that there is heeps of methods of brazing . so some hints for you
1 just heat where you want to start and work your way around
2 if you have something the same as the flange it is a lot heavier than the copper heat on that first copper is a great conducter of heat and will heat with the stainless also you don't risk overheating it and it melting.
3 take your time as for the above by doing this the the pool from the rod will wick into the joint and look prettier
4 dont be scared of over fluxing it will come off
5 as for cleaning up after the job i use citric acid mixed with water in maby 75g in about 7or8 liters of water and a scotch Brite to clean up
oh and i cant forget 6 just have fun fun as u learn .
Thanks dude. I think I need to sit down and read through all of these comments again before giving it another shot!
Bro you wearing nail polish 😅? Amazing how a bit of experience goes along way.
You can get a small rotary pipe cutter that will cut up to 1 inch pipe for $5. or $10. and it will last a long time.
+Thomas edwin you have no idea how jellous I am of Americans when it comes to DIY stuff!
Did that even stick at all the stainless would off been to cold 🤔
Why didn't you just use a large diameter rotary pipe cuter? That would cut the pipe perfectly straight.
+Thomas edwin would love too! But all of this is run on a pretty tight budget. So any extra $$$ was going into materials and ingredients. But I will definitely need getting one in the future!
Did you use a flux?
I did, just for the stainless. But I have since been informed that it was not fit for the job (low temp). So I will be getting something more suitable.
Still It sweet as
You can braze it with the water in there
Love Your Pink Finger Nails 😍
Nice nail polish dude lol
Just for you 😘 hahaha
. . . .ahhhh I have a young daughter . . . . more explanation needed? haha
HaHa i understand, Hey are the twins born yet? I hope the wife and family are all good and healthy. If i'm not too early Congrats!! I have got a 50L beer keg and stainless still ordered and on the way but i'm wondering how much copper i will need to pack the column with ? The column is 50mm wide and 900 tall, the condenser is also stainless with 3m stainless spiral in so i know i need to pack some copper in it somewhere LOL
I am in no way endorsing them but anyone else in Europe looking for a quality still that's not from China at a good price should check out www.prostill.co.uk/en_US/p/Pot-Still-PSG/68 That is the one i have got in 50L. I am thinking of ordering some tri clamps and some 10mm copper tube to cut a hole at the top of the column with a tri clamp ferrule welded on so i can convert it to a ccvm when making vodka or fuel. Anyway do u have any advice for someone using a stainless still ?
Funny thing is/was, you have a TH-cam Channel - you should have TH-cam how to Braze....i know, hind sight is 13/18..
Cheers mate
I'm a guru,your a guru. Quit yakking and show me how to piece it together and I'll show you how to solder it.
more flux and cleaning between welds
Practice practice practice
Pipe cutter, Dude.
Do you have some drawings for your still would be interested in making some changes to see if I can make some improvements.
+Robert Tate hmmm. I have SketchUp files. But they are a little outdated now. Bunch of things changed before I actually built it.
+Robert Tate whoops hit enter too fast haha.
Actually it may have mostly just been the column length. If you use SketchUp I think I made the files public. Pretty sure it's the only "ccvm" on there haha.
Still It thanks that's great
+Robert Tate cool you find it?
Still It not had time yet but will look later.
a pipe cutter would be way straighter, easier and prob safer
I am not sure why you didn't fork out $15 or so on a tube cutter, and I am not sure you have used the "safe" kind of brazing rod (you didn't, I think, mention what it was, but it shouldn't contain things like cadmium (or lead of course, but that's usually confined to solder).
Since you list a couple of distilling forums you must realise that you could have used lead free solder to make life a little easier.
I find silver soldering (really brazing) fairly straight forward but lead free soldering is much cheaper.
+Rudyard Kipling to be honest the thought of getting a pipe cutter barely crossed my mind. I'm on a fairly tight budget. Not too sure where you are from, but a quick search here says a pipe cutter for me is more like $60. And I can only find up to 42mm. I'm sure I will get one soon though :)
Yup it's prosilver 15. Same thing as silphos. I should have mentioned it.
Yup good point about the soft solder. I was finding it hard to find a suitable flux. Also as these were the two options always mentioned in forums I thought it would be cool to try both
. To try both as a noob see what the tricky parts are etc.
All good mate, it's always worth learning a new skill.
They are a lot cheaper than that at Bunnings BUT, as you say, they don't have one for 50 mm, however, they do exists on ebay (and I am sure at some auto places etc).
There is this:
www.ebay.com.au/itm/AU-Heavy-Duty-Quick-Release-Aluminum-Plumbing-Bearing-Tube-Pipe-6-64mm-Cutter-/361999685274?hash=item5448dcd69a:g:OzUAAOSwn-tZNQYt
...and, of course, there is always China: www.banggood.com/6-64mm-Heavy-Duty-Silverline-Plumbers-Quick-Release-Tube-Pipe-Cutter-Tool-p-1041481.html?rmmds=search
It took me a while to find the solder flux too - Ezi Weld 801 is the way to go (as I am sure you are aware).
Expensive but that silver solder is even more so (at least here in Oz).
Cheers.
This guy looks like Baker Mayfield with a bigger beard
And deffinatly don't weld upside down if your not an expert, that's just a Nooooo
...if you think this is stupid, well don't watch it ??? there is nothing stupid bout any of your clips my friend...
My man
Pretty ugly.