Brother, thank you so much for making my requested video. I have never seen that done before but now I think I'm ready to try it on my fowler. I sure appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Graham Northern Wisconsin
When I disassemble a lock or remove a barrel. I have found an empty egg carton helps me keep the small pieces organized. The egg carton has 12 "cups" to hold small pieces organized and in one place. I put one piece in each cup, in the order of disassembly. You can put them in either clockwise or counter-clockwise. When I am ready to reassemble, all the parts are in order. This helps me to know what goes where. Especially if I am called away for whatever reason. See if this idea works for you.
I am new to black powder and flintlock in particular, this was exactly what I needed, having purchased a 45 cal. from a local rendezvous. Thank you for this video !
I began shooting flintlocks in South Texas in the 50's...an original handed down from my Grandfather to father to me. My father after WWII took the bbl off, put it upside down on newspapers and gave it a light coating of military grade cosmoline. That rifle still has the original cosmoline 70+ years later on the bottom side, no rust, no effect on the wood..that's after shooting throughout the 50's and early 60's. 32 years ago I bought a custom flinter and did the same thin cosmoline coating on the underside. Today, it is still effective. 2 years ago I bought another custom flintlock...and applied a light coat of RP-342 military grade cosmoline from Amazon... on the underside of the bbl.; needless to say, an annual removal of the bbl from the stock is not necessary. Maybe just a checkup every 5-6 years, and that is not necessary. Just a thought.
Here are some more options for those interested: Often overlooked but could have been used BITD (even if not documented-for those who concern themselves with such) would be shellac or lanolin. Lanolin (wool wax) was used on ships to protect metal fittings from salt and moisture. Shellac has been around for centuries, and works on metal or wood.
Made it to 11:30 so far. What I did for my gun when I first got it was to clean it as well as I could, dry it, and then coated the whole barrel with boiled linseed oil and let it dry. Not only does the oil stop the rusting process, but it leaves a waterproof, protective coating on the metal. A little wipe with some oil takes down any tackiness. Works like a champ!
I have used RIG on the bores of my guns that don't see regular use. Hurricane Katrina flooded them for three or so weeks starting with about 17 feet of, the media's favorite description, toxic soup. It ate holes and worm channels in the outer steel and aluminum parts of all of my guns. I washed with soap and water and oiled them and put them in my new attic for years until I had time to grab one . So far, the rifles I have cleaned up all have bright bores. A Marlin 39A Golden Mountie .22, a Marlin 336 30-30 and a Savage Model 99 .308 look like hell on the outside but still have excellent bores and shoot like they did before. My Benelli M2 that I used for sporting clays and duck and dove hunting was used pretty often and was only cleaned inside and out with homemade Ed's Red with the bore and choke swabbed with canola oil. (it made the plastic fouling come right off).. It had a half dime size spot of rust near the screw in choke. The screw in choke and threads cleaned up OK. My short Hawken .50 bore, which had RIG, was good but the bore on my .58 Zouave with no Rig is pretty pitted. I don't know how RIG affects wood but I didn't slop it on anything. Thanks for a great video.
I find the same results though I’ve never had mine submerged. I was in Houston during Catrina and was only flooded once in the 20 years I lived on the gulf coast. 👍🏻
I found your channel while searching the net for information on black powder flintlock rifles. I've now watched several of your videos, and have found them to be very informative, answering questions that I had, and some that I didn't realize I had. Thanks for your time and knowledge
Lol! Nice! I do like taking suggestions for videos. Ones like this are easy and quick and if one new shooter asks I know it’ll help out a few more. Thanks Pat!
I have used Johnsons paste wax on my rifles inside the stock for years. Even my modern bolt action centerfires. I have never seen a speck of rust on them.
Appreciate all the help for us older but new to flinters Bob. Question. Looked through replies and such but did you follow up on how the Barricade worked for you after the one year? RevRob in Canada
Great video! I needed a refresher on how to remove the barrels on my Pennsylvania long rifles. Its been a couple years since I took them to the range or hunted with them. Your videos inspire me to get reacquainted with them! Thanks! Keep your powder dry!
I coat my barrel with my homemade lube of 50/50 bees wax and lambs tallow, does a great job of protecting. A little stiff using, but that seems to give it staying power
I don't remember who I got it from, but it was a gun writer that I highly respect (there are a few of them). According to him, the best thing to use is called Museum Wax. I bought some, and used it. A big part of why i tried it was i wanted to waterproof my rifle. but grease really smells. Especially to animals, who use their noses to stay alive. I have used the Museum Wax for years now. No rust, even under wood stocks, even in the rain. But, If I hunted in an all day drizzle, I would remove the stock, wipe it off, and put it over a hot air vent, or fairly close to a wood burner to dry out overnight. and at the end of the season, get it GOOD and DRY, and then re-wax it. Midway USA used to sell it. I haven't looked in a few years, because a tin of this will last you a while.
WoW! 2 tools in one. The perfect thing for surf & turf! Shoot a squirrel, then pull the barrel, attach a fly reel & catch a couple of trout! 🤣. That’s some great advice though. Thank you
Hey Uncle Bob, you ol' "bearded garbonzo" you! You almost "blew a fuse" on my difibrulator taking your "slimjim" barrel & stock apart!!! Not for the "faint of heart"! One BIG SUGGESTION to advise your viewers is - when you take your barrel out of your stock, stay WELL AWAY from the stock with your barrel, lest you somehow "twirl" your barrel into the stock & break or damage it! Then you'd need the EMTs over to revive you!! As you mentioned too, so very important, keep your barrel pins "in order" (front to back of stock) & even which PIN END goes in first on what side of the stock! I'd advise your viewers to place these pins on some "sticky tape" to keep them from rolling around & getting lost! Your "slimjim" small caliber rifle reminds me why I love the big caliber heavier barrel rifles, especially Hawkens & Lancasters, as they are not "dainty"! You could use them as a "club" if need be! Then of course they wouldn't be "squirrel rifles"!!! I noticed too that your stock barrel channel wasn't stained & probably not sealed against moisture. I believe every "innards parts" of a wood stock should be "sealed" (& stained!) where there is naked wood! Maybe there would be some reason not to. Thanks for your most excellent "expertise"! I've been in love with black powder muzzleloaders ever since about 1968 (I'm 81 now). Nothing better than the great "schmell" of Hoppe's #9 & black powder!!! "Ach du lieber, mein schatz"!!!
I favor a product called “conservator’s wax” for all my metal parts. Used in museums etc. and very dependable. Just cleaned up a 46 year old flintlock pistol, no corrosion at all. Thin coat is all it takes and won’t harm wood at all.
Howdy Bob , thanks for another good video . I'll be ready to go when my rifle gets finished , really appreciate you passing along your knowledge . It really helps being new to flintlock rifles . Well , guess i'm more than new seeing how i don't even have my rifle yet . LOL
Semper Fi. I Have used "Fixin Wax" on the underside of my barrels it seems to do a great job. Great video. I recently got a fullstocked flinter, and was wondering how this was done. Good scoop. Thank you.
I just bought my first two muzzle loaders and your videos are very helpful. Thank you! Here's a question: You say you typically remove the barrel once a year for maintenance, but what about after firing? Don't you have to remove them every time for cleaning? Please advise, thanks!
Extremely educational. I can now confidently take my little .45 percussion Euroarms apart. Thanks so much. I’ve got to look into having a kit flintlock shipped into Alberta. I love your guns slender lines.
I use and like Johnson paste wax for my rifle. One caveat on wax, dont use a "cleaner' wax if your particular about your finish on your rifle. There are abrasives in them that could cause premature wear to barrel or wood finish.
I tested 26 different products for rust prevention, Barricade was decent, but the top three were Eezox, Frog Lube and RIG. Wax (Johnson’s Floor and Renaissance) was fair but not in the same class. That was my experience anyway.
'nother good un Bob! Probably need to pull the barrel on my Bedford. But in all honesty it terrifies me... That thing is slim and sleek. I'm just going to have to make up my mind and do it though. As other commenters have suggested I may coat with Johnson's Paste Wax... But would a good rub with a block of paraffin work as well? Just a thought. I got laid off a week or two ago... You can call that fortunate or unfortunate... But with cooler weather to work on honey-do's (and shoot/hunt) I call it a good thing. Anyway, love the videos. Keep em coming. Mike
good video Bob! as always, for years i would coat my centerfire rifles with a thin film of Johnson past wax. i coated underneath and on top. i hunted with one a whole year in rainy weather and it never rusted any. to remove it just wipe with gun oil,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
I was wondering about Johnson's. I need to take the barrel off my Pedersoli Bess and I was wondering what I could use on the bottom of the barrel. I have more than half a tub of Johnson's left, so I was thinking about using it, but I wasn't sure. Think I'll go ahead and give it a try.
Great Video! My wifes Grandfather built 10 or so Kentucky Rifles and customized them with scroll and inlays. Question, do you know if this method would fix a barrel that moves a little from the stock and it's something I could do on my own? I was in construction for years but never on flintlocks...Thanks
hey bob i was wondering if you have any good first rifles or muskets. im interested in getting started but id like something more historical. im a huge berd for the revolution and the civil war. thanks again love the videos.
Hey Brad, a Pedersoli Bess or Charleville would be a good first Rev War musket and an 1842 or 1861 Harpers Ferry or Springfield for the ACW. Originals can be had for 1k or so with some searching and moderns in the 400-800$ range for a nice repro. Thanks for the kind words. 👍🏻
My peeersoli Brown Bess barrel is kind of loose on the stock and I was hoping to take the barrel out to figure out what’s going on but I’m worried that taking the pins out will forever loosen the holes. How do these pins go back in and tighten things up a second time?
Hi. I know nothing, and have a question: how do you fill those beautiful regular and pocket powder horns with that little tiny hole ??? Do you need a flask to help ??? 🤔
Hey Marcos, traditionally a small brass funnel was used. BP is pretty fine so it’s similar to pouring salt into a straw. 👍🏻 I buy a cap for the BP can that has a built funnel.
The pins in a particular rifle could be any size. I use whatever I have on hand, be it a tiny drill bit or piece of wire, coat hanger, whatever will be just a bit smaller than the hole or that you can file to be a bit smaller than the hole. I do have some punches so I check those first.
Thanks for the videos. I have a .50 cal flintlock with a removable breech plug. I'm new to this black powder thing and I'm wondering if that unscrew-able breech plug reduces the reliability of firing the rifle. Seems to me it's a system that further removes the fire in the pan from the charge behind the projectile in the chamber. For whatever reason I'm about one for thirty in my attempts to fire my rifle and that don't seem quite up to reliable. The breech plug may not be at fault but I need an informed opinion. Thanks.
Hey George, You mean you have a hooked breech? Where you can remove your barrel without taking out the tang? There are basically two types of normal breech systems in flintlocks a two piece hooked breech or a standard screw in plug with the tang fixed to it. Neither should make a difference reliability wise. Are you getting plenty of sparks? Have someone video your lock sparking with their phone and watch it in slow motion to verify there are lots of sparks hitting the pan. Clean your flashole out with a prick or pipe cleaner before you start your session. Verify your flint is sharp. You may also have a patent breech which you will know by the touchhole being in the plug. If that's the case you really have to clean it well. Put a toothpick in the touchhole to plug it and then put some water in the barrel and blow it out through the touchhole with your ramrod and a tight patch. Use a dry patch on the ramrod as a piston to blow air in and out to dry it out and oil. Then use another dry patch to blow all the excess oil out so the channel is clear. This technique works well with a normal breech system as well to make sure it's clear.
@@BlackPowderTV Thanks a lot for the in depth information. I'll give it a close look...winter's moving in now and I don't know when I'll next be able to get to the range but I certainly appreciate your answer.
I use a bees wax / linseed oil plaster mixture under my barrels Edit - you can make your own mixture with boiled linseed oil but most of the time companies use chemicals for quick drying so you have to be careful when making the paste.
Excellent, I've watched my husband do that and he is as meticulous as you are. Are all black powder shooters that way? I've only known 2 besides my husband and yes they are like you and him. So I guess I answered my own question. Great video.
Mike McGuire Thanks Mike! I’m fond of that Bear pistol. I took it out the other day to see how it shot at 30y as it will be my close in Deer gun. She shot sweet and true! Cant wait to blood her!
That was a nifty trick getting the barrel out of the stock. Done learned me some today. Now when you say wax I assume you mean beeswax? Do you apply that cold or do you heat the barrel so it runs and flows over the surface and adheres real well? EDIT: and I’ve always used “Bore Butter” to protect from rust on my lock and barrel and it’s worked really well. But I do remove my barrel every time I clean after shooting and strip the old off and apply new every time. Though my guns have sat over a year (in a safe) without shooting and same thing, no rust upon cleaning)
Can u use the Rig for the inside of the barrel as well? Does that barrel have any type of metal finish, or is it left in the white so to speak, without any finish? Oh yea, I replaced my trigger pin with a longer one in my side by side yesterday. Felt good to be able to resolve the issue without mailing my gun anywhere to be fixed.
Hey James! Im glad you got that resolved as sometimes handling that stuff is part of the charm of BP. You could use RIG for inside the barrel for longer term storage, just make sure to get it out really well before shooting. I dont like any petroleum products in my bore. They glaze when present in your bore when you shoot. I rust browned the barrel and rubbed it back with scotchbrite for a French Grey finish. Its a bit light but its darkening with time.
@@BlackPowderTV Oh ok, I will not use the Rig for inside the barrel because I do not want to chance glazing it. I like the way your barrel looks. What do you use for the interior of your barrels? Ballistol?
I generally use bear grease, full strength ballistol or sometimes regular gun oil. Gun oil is petroleum but thin and easily removable with a few patches. Dont worry too much about glazing. Its more if its thick and in the grooves of your rifling and you dont get it out.
@@BlackPowderTV I have tried 100% Ballistol and WD40. The WD40 seams to work better than the Ballistol, for me anyways. But, I'm thinking about trying Track of The Wolf's Mink Oil?
I always keep a half dozen jars of mink Oil. Great lube and oil. Really good stuff. I mainly use ballistol as part of my routine for cleaning the bore and bp residue from the outside of the rifle. Its great for that. 👍🏻
At the risk of sounding ignorant, what kinds of wax are we talking about here? I see a suggestion for Johnsons paste wax, but auto wax, hard or cream type, for the bbl. or a wood wax like Butchers for floors, or bees wax? Would you recommend doing both sides, wood n bbl or just bbl? Because I have always just coated bbl with oil then wipe down the bbl channel in stock, but if I get forgetful, or don’t take one out for a bit, it makes for some work more than just a rub down, lol
That’s a good question. And it’s really up to you. You might buy a piece of cold rolled steel from Lowe’s and coat it with a few waxes and set it outside. Folks have tried about everything but I’ve heard of great results from Johnson’s Paste Wax and similar waxes. I’ve used beeswax. I’ve most always just used a very thin coat of rust inhibiting grease but I’m starting to run some tests. I’ll try Johnson’s, perhaps a Carnuba wax. I would think a pure wax that goes on easy and gets fairly hard would be ideal. Mainly I would use it on the bottom flats where you may not get to it but once a year and just oil or grease the exposed parts. 👍🏻 I wouldn’t coat any of the inlets. Extant originals weren’t done and the wood has held up just fine without any humidity controls.
I miss you too brother! Yea, all is well. I’m a big hunter and have been pounding it hard the last month. I did finish a video that will be posted tomorrow AM explaining my absence along with a little hunt. We will get back to a regular schedule starting now. Thanks for the kind words! 👍🏻
Black Powder TV my head tells me it’s not that fragile, my heart sets it’s hair on fire and runs in circles screaming ‘be careful don’t screw up, your going to screw up aren’t you!!!’ Then I run in the last tang screw and say ‘oh you were silly being scared’ until next time.
They do break. I've seen one repaired that can't be discerned, but the maker assures me it slipped off the bench and snapped right off. Some folks (he and I ) agree that it's a great idea to secure a dowel into the bbl channel while the bbl is out.
Brother, thank you so much for making my requested video. I have never seen that done before but now I think I'm ready to try it on my fowler. I sure appreciate you taking the time to make this video.
Graham
Northern Wisconsin
Awesome Graham! I was happy to do it. Go easy and it’s a piece of cake! 👍🏻
@@BlackPowderTV service contact number your number send me I am Indian manufacture all type item iron
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Was thinking the same thing, I have never heard of the "Budweiser Stool" technique for barrel removal. I am going to try it on my Jäeger.
When I disassemble a lock or remove a barrel. I have found an empty egg carton helps me keep the small pieces organized. The egg carton has 12 "cups" to hold small pieces organized and in one place. I put one piece in each cup, in the order of disassembly. You can put them in either clockwise or counter-clockwise. When I am ready to reassemble, all the parts are in order. This helps me to know what goes where. Especially if I am called away for whatever reason. See if this idea works for you.
I am new to black powder and flintlock in particular, this was exactly what I needed, having purchased a 45 cal. from a local rendezvous. Thank you for this video !
I began shooting flintlocks in South Texas in the 50's...an original handed down from my Grandfather to father to me. My father after WWII took the bbl off, put it upside down on newspapers and gave it a light coating of military grade cosmoline. That rifle still has the original cosmoline 70+ years later on the bottom side, no rust, no effect on the wood..that's after shooting throughout the 50's and early 60's. 32 years ago I bought a custom flinter and did the same thin cosmoline coating on the underside. Today, it is still effective. 2 years ago I bought another custom flintlock...and applied a light coat of RP-342 military grade cosmoline from Amazon... on the underside of the bbl.; needless to say, an annual removal of the bbl from the stock is not necessary. Maybe just a checkup every 5-6 years, and that is not necessary. Just a thought.
Here are some more options for those interested: Often overlooked but could have been used BITD (even if not documented-for those who concern themselves with such) would be shellac or lanolin. Lanolin (wool wax) was used on ships to protect metal fittings from salt and moisture. Shellac has been around for centuries, and works on metal or wood.
Made it to 11:30 so far. What I did for my gun when I first got it was to clean it as well as I could, dry it, and then coated the whole barrel with boiled linseed oil and let it dry. Not only does the oil stop the rusting process, but it leaves a waterproof, protective coating on the metal. A little wipe with some oil takes down any tackiness. Works like a champ!
I have used RIG on the bores of my guns that don't see regular use. Hurricane Katrina flooded them for three or so weeks starting with about 17 feet of, the media's favorite description, toxic soup. It ate holes and worm channels in the outer steel and aluminum parts of all of my guns. I washed with soap and water and oiled them and put them in my new attic for years until I had time to grab one . So far, the rifles I have cleaned up all have bright bores. A Marlin 39A Golden Mountie .22, a Marlin 336 30-30 and a Savage Model 99 .308 look like hell on the outside but still have excellent bores and shoot like they did before. My Benelli M2 that I used for sporting clays and duck and dove hunting was used pretty often and was only cleaned inside and out with homemade Ed's Red with the bore and choke swabbed with canola oil. (it made the plastic fouling come right off).. It had a half dime size spot of rust near the screw in choke. The screw in choke and threads cleaned up OK. My short Hawken .50 bore, which had RIG, was good but the bore on my .58 Zouave with no Rig is pretty pitted. I don't know how RIG affects wood but I didn't slop it on anything. Thanks for a great video.
I find the same results though I’ve never had mine submerged. I was in Houston during Catrina and was only flooded once in the 20 years I lived on the gulf coast. 👍🏻
I found your channel while searching the net for information on black powder flintlock rifles.
I've now watched several of your videos, and have found them to be very informative, answering questions that I had, and some that I didn't realize I had.
Thanks for your time and knowledge
Thanks for the kind words Paul! I appreciate it! Welcome!
I saw Jim Kibler get a barrel out like that on one of his videos.
Putting wax on the pins once installed is a great idea!
Thanks Rodd! Its a handy way to get her out!
I was aware of this procedure, except for the budwiser stool. Another reason to respect you.. thank you!
Lol! Thanks Tim!
What timing. Just read the thread on the longrifle forum where somebody asked you to do this video. And here you are.
Lol! Nice! I do like taking suggestions for videos. Ones like this are easy and quick and if one new shooter asks I know it’ll help out a few more. Thanks Pat!
I have used Johnsons paste wax on my rifles inside the stock for years. Even my modern bolt action centerfires. I have never seen a speck of rust on them.
I’ve heard Johnson’s is fantastic. I’ll have to give it a shot! Thanks for the tip!
Thanks all the DETAILED instruction and tips...very helpful to a first-timer!
Appreciate all the help for us older but new to flinters Bob. Question. Looked through replies and such but did you follow up on how the Barricade worked for you after the one year? RevRob in Canada
Great video! I needed a refresher on how to remove the barrels on my Pennsylvania long rifles. Its been a couple years since I took them to the range or hunted with them. Your videos inspire me to get reacquainted with them!
Thanks! Keep your powder dry!
Thanks Jay! Keep yourn dry!
Yo. Just found your channel. Good stuff. Inspiring me to get back to my long rifle projects. Muchas gracias.
De Nada! Thanks for the kind words brother!
I coat my barrel with my homemade lube of 50/50 bees wax and lambs tallow, does a great job of protecting. A little stiff using, but that seems to give it staying power
I don't remember who I got it from, but it was a gun writer that I highly respect (there are a few of them). According to him, the best thing to use is called Museum Wax. I bought some, and used it. A big part of why i tried it was i wanted to waterproof my rifle. but grease really smells. Especially to animals, who use their noses to stay alive. I have used the Museum Wax for years now. No rust, even under wood stocks, even in the rain. But, If I hunted in an all day drizzle, I would remove the stock, wipe it off, and put it over a hot air vent, or fairly close to a wood burner to dry out overnight. and at the end of the season, get it GOOD and DRY, and then re-wax it. Midway USA used to sell it. I haven't looked in a few years, because a tin of this will last you a while.
Well done Bob!! You make it look easy and to intimidating! Thanks for sharing your talents.
Bob, thanks for another very informative video; you always do a Great Job!
Jeff E. Thanks Jeff!
Haven't used Barricade on my BP long guns yet, but it works really well on the others, including those that burn fairy dust....
WoW! 2 tools in one. The perfect thing for surf & turf! Shoot a squirrel, then pull the barrel, attach a fly reel & catch a couple of trout! 🤣. That’s some great advice though. Thank you
Good job, mybe the site will help bring new shooters to the sport. We do need more shooters at our clubs shoots. Thanks again!
Hey Uncle Bob, you ol' "bearded garbonzo" you! You almost "blew a fuse" on my difibrulator taking your "slimjim" barrel & stock apart!!! Not for the "faint of heart"! One BIG SUGGESTION to advise your viewers is - when you take your barrel out of your stock, stay WELL AWAY from the stock with your barrel, lest you somehow "twirl" your barrel into the stock & break or damage it! Then you'd need the EMTs over to revive you!! As you mentioned too, so very important, keep your barrel pins "in order" (front to back of stock) & even which PIN END goes in first on what side of the stock! I'd advise your viewers to place these pins on some "sticky tape" to keep them from rolling around & getting lost! Your "slimjim" small caliber rifle reminds me why I love the big caliber heavier barrel rifles, especially Hawkens & Lancasters, as they are not "dainty"! You could use them as a "club" if need be! Then of course they wouldn't be "squirrel rifles"!!! I noticed too that your stock barrel channel wasn't stained & probably not sealed against moisture. I believe every "innards parts" of a wood stock should be "sealed" (& stained!) where there is naked wood! Maybe there would be some reason not to. Thanks for your most excellent "expertise"! I've been in love with black powder muzzleloaders ever since about 1968 (I'm 81 now). Nothing better than the great "schmell" of Hoppe's #9 & black powder!!! "Ach du lieber, mein schatz"!!!
Mr. Thickey Thanks Mr. T! Excellent comment!
Great video Bob love the new turn screws ,Its always a worry taking the stocks of long guns .Cheers
Thanks Cliff!
I favor a product called “conservator’s wax” for all my metal parts. Used in museums etc. and very dependable. Just cleaned up a 46 year old flintlock pistol, no corrosion at all. Thin coat is all it takes and won’t harm wood at all.
I’ve used it and it’s a fantastic product. Thanks for the post!
Howdy Bob , thanks for another good video . I'll be ready to go when my rifle gets finished , really appreciate you passing along your knowledge . It really helps being new to flintlock rifles . Well , guess i'm more than new seeing how i don't even have my rifle yet . LOL
Awesome Dan! Glad I can help! Let me know how it goes and feel free to ask any questions at bob@blackpowdertv.com.
Semper Fi. I Have used "Fixin Wax" on the underside of my barrels it seems to do a great job. Great video. I recently got a fullstocked flinter, and was wondering how this was done. Good scoop. Thank you.
I just bought my first two muzzle loaders and your videos are very helpful. Thank you! Here's a question: You say you typically remove the barrel once a year for maintenance, but what about after firing? Don't you have to remove them every time for cleaning? Please advise, thanks!
I use Howard Feed-N-Wax on everything after I clean my guns. I put a coat on and let it sit awhile then buff. Seems to work good.
Thanks for the tip SJB!
From an old timer and professional gunsmith, thanks good method & info
Thanks brother!
I've had good luck with Renaissance Wax and also Corrosion X. I prefer the wax. A friend uses Eezox.
I should have mentioned that but i do have renaissance wax and that will be what i use. 👍🏻
Great video, thanks for putting in the time.
WRXS Thanks brother!
Extremely educational. I can now confidently take my little .45 percussion Euroarms apart. Thanks so much. I’ve got to look into having a kit flintlock shipped into Alberta. I love your guns slender lines.
Thanks again for the kind words John!
I use and like Johnson paste wax for my rifle. One caveat on wax, dont use a "cleaner' wax if your particular about your finish on your rifle. There are abrasives in them that could cause premature wear to barrel or wood finish.
Excellent point Patrick! Thanks!
I tested 26 different products for rust prevention, Barricade was decent, but the top three were Eezox, Frog Lube and RIG. Wax (Johnson’s Floor and Renaissance) was fair but not in the same class. That was my experience anyway.
Interesting Jameson. Ive used them all except Eezox and have been perfectly content with RIG. Thanks!
Excellent advice.👍🏻
'nother good un Bob!
Probably need to pull the barrel on my Bedford. But in all honesty it terrifies me... That thing is slim and sleek. I'm just going to have to make up my mind and do it though.
As other commenters have suggested I may coat with Johnson's Paste Wax... But would a good rub with a block of paraffin work as well? Just a thought.
I got laid off a week or two ago... You can call that fortunate or unfortunate... But with cooler weather to work on honey-do's (and shoot/hunt) I call it a good thing.
Anyway, love the videos. Keep em coming.
Mike
Thanks Mike. I dont see why paraffin wouldnt be worth a try. If you call it a good thing then I do too. Get some of those honey-doos knocked back! 👍🏻
Hello
Love your channel. I have learned a lot.
Can you tell me where to get a good range rod with muzzle guard like you have?
Thanks Mike
Hey Mike. Thanks for the kind words. There are several sources but I get mine from trackofthewolf.com.
Great video. I didn’t know the proper way to do this. Thank you.
this video is very helpful
good video Bob! as always, for years i would coat my centerfire rifles with a thin film of Johnson past wax. i coated underneath and on top. i hunted with one a whole year in rainy weather and it never rusted any. to remove it just wipe with gun oil,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Excellent tip Olskool! I was trying to think of Johnson’s when i mentioned wax in the video. 👍🏻
I was wondering about Johnson's. I need to take the barrel off my Pedersoli Bess and I was wondering what I could use on the bottom of the barrel. I have more than half a tub of Johnson's left, so I was thinking about using it, but I wasn't sure. Think I'll go ahead and give it a try.
Let us know how it works for you.
@@BlackPowderTV Will do.
Excellent video a learning lesson
Another great video. Thank you
Thanks!!!
I love the music !!!!!
Thanks John! Semper Fi!
What about Ballistol as the rust inhibitor? It has always treated wood OK and done the job to protect metal from rust. oxidation etcd.
It’s a good short term solution for rust but I’d use something else for more than say a month or so.
You and I have the same view on our weapons. I’m just a sucker for half stocks 😁
Love some halfstocks myself! Only have a few though!
Great Video! My wifes Grandfather built 10 or so Kentucky Rifles and customized them with scroll and inlays. Question, do you know if this method would fix a barrel that moves a little from the stock and it's something I could do on my own? I was in construction for years but never on flintlocks...Thanks
I’m curious about the bore. what do you do to keep the bore from rusting in between uses?
I use bear grease or something like RIG grease between sessions depending how long it will set up.
Where did you get your adjustable pivot jaw vise? Who makes it? Are those soft pads in the jaws? Thanks...great videos.
Woodcraft makes a green one and this one is a guitar vise. Yes soft pads. Thanks!
That rifle just made me decide to buy a flintlock.
hey bob i was wondering if you have any good first rifles or muskets. im interested in getting started but id like something more historical. im a huge berd for the revolution and the civil war. thanks again love the videos.
Hey Brad, a Pedersoli Bess or Charleville would be a good first Rev War musket and an 1842 or 1861 Harpers Ferry or Springfield for the ACW. Originals can be had for 1k or so with some searching and moderns in the 400-800$ range for a nice repro. Thanks for the kind words. 👍🏻
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO....... LEARNING A LOT!
Great info! Them ole timers will wag that finger and give you a tongue lashing on occasion.
Yes sir. And usually well worth listening to! Thanks US!
My peeersoli Brown Bess barrel is kind of loose on the stock and I was hoping to take the barrel out to figure out what’s going on but I’m worried that taking the pins out will forever loosen the holes. How do these pins go back in and tighten things up a second time?
Hi. I know nothing, and have a question: how do you fill those beautiful regular and pocket powder horns with that little tiny hole ??? Do you need a flask to help ??? 🤔
Hey Marcos, traditionally a small brass funnel was used. BP is pretty fine so it’s similar to pouring salt into a straw. 👍🏻 I buy a cap for the BP can that has a built funnel.
Thanks! been wondering about this.
You’re welcome Kiwi!
What model is the long rifle shown in the vid? it's beautiful
Thanks. It’s a Kibler SMR kit I built several years ago. The kit can be seen on Kibler Longrifles website. 👍
@@BlackPowderTV thanks for responding, just discovered the channel and Im proud to say that you are by far one of the best channels out there.
Thanks so much! I appreciate it! Welcome.
Great video thank you.
Great video as always! I’m going to give mine a try.🤞🙏. Does the grease patch lube help the pins go back in easier or to help keep them in?
Thanks Gene! Just keeps them a little more protected from moisture and rust i think. I see it a lot on original Southern guns.
What’s the best size punch to buy to remove the pins or do you use something else
The pins in a particular rifle could be any size. I use whatever I have on hand, be it a tiny drill bit or piece of wire, coat hanger, whatever will be just a bit smaller than the hole or that you can file to be a bit smaller than the hole. I do have some punches so I check those first.
Thanks again!!!
Thanks for the videos. I have a .50 cal flintlock with a removable breech plug. I'm new to this black powder thing and I'm wondering if that unscrew-able breech plug reduces the reliability of firing the rifle. Seems to me it's a system that further removes the fire in the pan from the charge behind the projectile in the chamber. For whatever reason I'm about one for thirty in my attempts to fire my rifle and that don't seem quite up to reliable. The breech plug may not be at fault but I need an informed opinion. Thanks.
Hey George, You mean you have a hooked breech? Where you can remove your barrel without taking out the tang? There are basically two types of normal breech systems in flintlocks a two piece hooked breech or a standard screw in plug with the tang fixed to it. Neither should make a difference reliability wise. Are you getting plenty of sparks? Have someone video your lock sparking with their phone and watch it in slow motion to verify there are lots of sparks hitting the pan. Clean your flashole out with a prick or pipe cleaner before you start your session. Verify your flint is sharp.
You may also have a patent breech which you will know by the touchhole being in the plug. If that's the case you really have to clean it well. Put a toothpick in the touchhole to plug it and then put some water in the barrel and blow it out through the touchhole with your ramrod and a tight patch. Use a dry patch on the ramrod as a piston to blow air in and out to dry it out and oil. Then use another dry patch to blow all the excess oil out so the channel is clear. This technique works well with a normal breech system as well to make sure it's clear.
@@BlackPowderTV Thanks a lot for the in depth information. I'll give it a close look...winter's moving in now and I don't know when I'll next be able to get to the range but I certainly appreciate your answer.
@@georgeclausen2408 Any time!
@Jason B. Yes...it's a Tradition Arms .50 cal. rifle...made in Spain...that's about all there is to identify it...
You should tap the end of the barrel. Ask Kibler or anyone else
I use a bees wax / linseed oil plaster mixture under my barrels
Edit - you can make your own mixture with boiled linseed oil but most of the time companies use chemicals for quick drying so you have to be careful when making the paste.
That is exactly how I was taught to remove a barrel by the maker of my longrifles.
Archery Anarchy Me too! Thanks!
Excellent, I've watched my husband do that and he is as meticulous as you are. Are all black powder shooters that way? I've only known 2 besides my husband and yes they are like you and him. So I guess I answered my own question. Great video.
Thanks Sharon, yep, that’s the thing about BP guns, one mistake and you’re forever after as careful as you should be. 👍🏻
Great video Bob! Now people will know how o do it safely. Nice Pistol!
Mike McGuire Thanks Mike! I’m fond of that Bear pistol. I took it out the other day to see how it shot at 30y as it will be my close in Deer gun. She shot sweet and true! Cant wait to blood her!
That was a nifty trick getting the barrel out of the stock. Done learned me some today. Now when you say wax I assume you mean beeswax? Do you apply that cold or do you heat the barrel so it runs and flows over the surface and adheres real well?
EDIT: and I’ve always used “Bore Butter” to protect from rust on my lock and barrel and it’s worked really well. But I do remove my barrel every time I clean after shooting and strip the old off and apply new every time. Though my guns have sat over a year (in a safe) without shooting and same thing, no rust upon cleaning)
Thanks! Guys use all kinds of wax. Renaissance Wax is a good one. Bees wax may work fine. One guy told me he used bottled floor wax.
A Museum with a big arms collections use carnuba wax to protect metal and wood on a documentary i saw once.
I use bore butter myself
Thank you, Sir Nice video!
Another great video. I like that vise. Can you share the manufacturer?
It’s a StewMac guitar maker’s vice. There is a green version at woodcrafter.com that is from the same manufacturer called the patternmaker’s vise. 👍🏻
Can u use the Rig for the inside of the barrel as well? Does that barrel have any type of metal finish, or is it left in the white so to speak, without any finish? Oh yea, I replaced my trigger pin with a longer one in my side by side yesterday. Felt good to be able to resolve the issue without mailing my gun anywhere to be fixed.
Hey James! Im glad you got that resolved as sometimes handling that stuff is part of the charm of BP. You could use RIG for inside the barrel for longer term storage, just make sure to get it out really well before shooting. I dont like any petroleum products in my bore. They glaze when present in your bore when you shoot. I rust browned the barrel and rubbed it back with scotchbrite for a French Grey finish. Its a bit light but its darkening with time.
@@BlackPowderTV Oh ok, I will not use the Rig for inside the barrel because I do not want to chance glazing it. I like the way your barrel looks. What do you use for the interior of your barrels? Ballistol?
I generally use bear grease, full strength ballistol or sometimes regular gun oil. Gun oil is petroleum but thin and easily removable with a few patches. Dont worry too much about glazing. Its more if its thick and in the grooves of your rifling and you dont get it out.
@@BlackPowderTV I have tried 100% Ballistol and WD40. The WD40 seams to work better than the Ballistol, for me anyways. But, I'm thinking about trying Track of The Wolf's Mink Oil?
I always keep a half dozen jars of mink Oil. Great lube and oil. Really good stuff. I mainly use ballistol as part of my routine for cleaning the bore and bp residue from the outside of the rifle. Its great for that. 👍🏻
At the risk of sounding ignorant, what kinds of wax are we talking about here? I see a suggestion for Johnsons paste wax, but auto wax, hard or cream type, for the bbl. or a wood wax like Butchers for floors, or bees wax? Would you recommend doing both sides, wood n bbl or just bbl? Because I have always just coated bbl with oil then wipe down the bbl channel in stock, but if I get forgetful, or don’t take one out for a bit, it makes for some work more than just a rub down, lol
That’s a good question. And it’s really up to you. You might buy a piece of cold rolled steel from Lowe’s and coat it with a few waxes and set it outside. Folks have tried about everything but I’ve heard of great results from Johnson’s Paste Wax and similar waxes. I’ve used beeswax. I’ve most always just used a very thin coat of rust inhibiting grease but I’m starting to run some tests. I’ll try Johnson’s, perhaps a Carnuba wax. I would think a pure wax that goes on easy and gets fairly hard would be ideal. Mainly I would use it on the bottom flats where you may not get to it but once a year and just oil or grease the exposed parts. 👍🏻
I wouldn’t coat any of the inlets. Extant originals weren’t done and the wood has held up just fine without any humidity controls.
Nice video! I had someone tell me years ago to wipe the barrel down with vaseline before installing it. Not sure if it’s a good idea.
Thanks! Might work just fine! Ill have to give it a test!
I miss you, man! Is all well?
I miss you too brother! Yea, all is well. I’m a big hunter and have been pounding it hard the last month. I did finish a video that will be posted tomorrow AM explaining my absence along with a little hunt. We will get back to a regular schedule starting now. Thanks for the kind words! 👍🏻
@@BlackPowderTV great!
@@30CalCoreLokt that was supposed to read “a little hunt” not “a little hint”. 👍🏻
Do you find any zero shift after reinstalling barrel?
I haven’t seen that. I suppose it’s a possibility so another reason to be gentle. Thanks Samuel!
@@BlackPowderTV thanks for replying! New to blackbowder shooting and I'm hooked! Love the channel, so much good information
Thanks for the kind words Samual. Feel free to ask any questions you might have along the way at bob@blackpowdertv.com.
Hi how can I contact you. Id like you to take a look at a R. Ashmore Warranted I acquired.
Robert Macedonio bob@blackpowdertv.com. Lots of pics!
From the time I pull a barrel till it’s back in I’m scared to death. So afraid a fly or whisker hair will fall on it and break it.
Lol. Go easy. It's not as fragile as all that, but you surely can't be a hamfisted sasquatch handling these!
Black Powder TV my head tells me it’s not that fragile, my heart sets it’s hair on fire and runs in circles screaming ‘be careful don’t screw up, your going to screw up aren’t you!!!’
Then I run in the last tang screw and say ‘oh you were silly being scared’ until next time.
I know that's right. It is a bit nerve-racking.....
They do break. I've seen one repaired that can't be discerned, but the maker assures me it slipped off the bench and snapped right off. Some folks (he and I ) agree that it's a great idea to secure a dowel into the bbl channel while the bbl is out.
Lo