How to Put USB-C Power on ANYTHING (almost)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ค. 2024
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CHAPTERS
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0:00 USB-C all the things!
0:55 USB-PD is confusing tbh
3:14 Our test subjects
5:10 F it! We'll do it live!
6:57 Quick disclaimer
7:31 Out with the AC, in with the 12v DC
8:56 Other cable? - เกม
Linus probably remembers the early days of cellphone chargers, where basically every model had a different charger, even across a single manufacturer's devices. A "universal" charger to replace a dead or dying charger would come with like nineteen different plugs and had a mile-long compatibility list that you'd have to read through and hope your phone was on there. **shudders**
Those where dark days......I lived thru...just like Nokia immortal phone...
Back then universal chargers had a dozen type of connectors.
@@tyaty They still do.
And then, Nokia unified their charger using a simple dc plug
@@Jabawalk Nokia had a few standard charging connectors over the years. Both in multi pin and barrel.
Apple left the chat...
The whole ipad lineup, MacBooks, and soon to be iphones because of EU regulation?
Pippin
_Pippout_
The EU has forced Apple back into the chat
LOL
They will just go completely wireless.
It will work out about as well as their esim. Being the manager of 26 physicians that all use iPhones they all wanted the 14. Out of 5 phones I have had 2 transfer successfully and 3 fail which requires 30-45 minute call to Verizon for them to push it over the network multiple times until it works.
Always put a reverse protection diode INSIDE the device with barrel jack. And clearly indicate voltage, current draw and orientation on the outside..
Reverse protection p-channel MOSFET for low voltage drop.
@@SomeDudeInBaltimore yeah that would be better. Depends on the load, the drop might be negligible.
yeah good advice I learned it the hard way my devices were fried after I designed the circuit lazy minded did not include protection
fried my rog ally and a usb device because of poorly designed usb c splitter with power delivery
@@A_Faith_That_Is_Ironclad never use a USB splitter is the real take away here.
6:58 Negative-tip power cables were common into the 1990s. They seemed to start switching to positive tip when they started using switching supplies. Always verify the polarity for older devices.
I actually want to see Linus declutter all of LMG with the solution shown in this video.
There has been a few attempts in the past
Riley would be pleased with this measure. Wasn't him kind of minimalist?
@@carloslecina9029: yeah, Riley... and Dennis
@@shinyhappyrem8728 Dennis doesn't count, he thinks he's a Minimalist but we all know he's not
na i wan the qi charging overhead light they showed a while back, power eveything from the overhead lights, no wires at all
If there's something I can already take away from this video it's that it can't be long before Linus tries to make a PC inside of an electric dog.
Better than a living dog.
@@CottidaeSEA "Sleeper dog PC" "swap out the organs of your old dog with these new components, just mod the corpse to fit the new parts"
@@CottidaeSEA 💀💀💀
I would watch lol
The perfect LAN pc
FWIW, Brother has a line of label printers that can print directly on heat shrink tubing. That would be *VERY* handy for labelling the different modified USB-C cables.
aaaaand another thing on my shopping list. the PT-E550WNIVP
@@iAmVonexX "But, dear, I *NEED* to label all of our garden hoses so the neighbours won't steal them!" :grin:
I took a shot at this like 6 months ago when my laptop charger broke and replaced it with a GaN charger USB-C to barrel jack cable. I was surprised it wasn't being discussed much anywhere. But I didn't think to use the same tactic for old game consoles since they can be a bit sensitive
Big warning: The pictured conversion cable sold by Console5 for SNES is correct if you are plugging a *center-negative* 5.5mm plug into it. The similar cable that's sold by Castlemania is correct if you are plugging a *center-positive* 5.5mm plug into it. Because the US SNES uses a weird plug it has no polarity protection (or at least the later ones don't). Don't fry your SNES! To make sure, use a meter to confirm that the final 7mm plug is *center-negative* as that is what the SNES expects.
Also don't use the NES power adapter for anything else as it outputs AC instead of DC.
Not only that, but the "worldwide" SNES (AKA the PAL one), runs on AC current not DC. I know, it's weird, but that's how it is.
@@rijjhb9467 The "worldwide" one they show is a US NTSC unit. It's the only one that uses the weird plug.
@@violentcabbage9424 I don't really get trying to make consoles more convenient like this. Just for collector value don't go modifying your consoles. Emulation makes things very convenient if that's the overriding concern.
@@98ahni conversly, the NES dosnt care what the fuck you throw at it, it wil just work(as long as its Power regulator isnt overwhelmed.. which would however mean giving it around 2x the voltage it normaly takes anyway) Polarity swapped? AC? DC? fucking Double A?(i know they are just DC) the NES dosnt care.. makes it even weirder they shipped it with an AC Wallplug....
I'm powering a 19V LG monitor with a 12V laptop charger. There is a voltage regulator inside the monitor that accepts a large range of voltages, provided there is sufficient current. That charger has enough amps, so it works without issues.
Lots of electronics will work below the rated voltage. That does not mean they will necessarily work well. For example, that monitor may appear to be working fine at the settings you are using, but a setting such as setting to maximum brightness may not be as bright as it would be if it had those extra 7 volts.
@@wowza- ok😊
@@Qwerty-uiop also overtime it may burn out entirly. I had that happen to a lcd monitor that I accidentally plugged in the wrong wallwort that was undervoltage but still worked. Had no idea because they looked identical at first glance and I wasnt paying attention. If I remember correctly the monitor lasted nearly a month before it just wouldnt turn on. Even after figuring out and swapping cords. Luckily enough the external dvd burner that I had swapped cords with was undamaged but it also was only used about a dozen times and had its power cut off after each use via my surge protector.
@@wowza- not really. I checked the brightness setting and that works as intended. Using lowest brightness (still plenty) for daily operation though to be on the save side. These built-in regulators step down the input voltage to a constant 5V, and then increase it to 53V again for the backlight. The internal buck-boost controller is rated to run between ~4.2-55V and it's even more efficient at 12V input.
It might also be (and I'm curious so could you check?) that the battery in the laptop is 12V but the charger needs to be 19V to charge it. My Asus EEE took 12V for a 7.5V battery but pretty much every other laptop I've had has a 12V battery and 19V charger.
Fun fact, the NES's power system is designed to work with any 9V source, AC or DC, center positive or negative. Might make having multiple cables a little easier, if the barrels match, you can use the same cable for all earlier devices.
You can also run the NES on double a batteries for about an hour
its important to note that barrel size isn't always a garuntee that its the correct voltage. there's not really a defined standard so much as there is a best practice.
Based power system
I’m actually amazed Linus did an 11 minute video on USB power delivery and didn’t mention the iPhone!
What's there to talk about? Lightning is just a different connector for normal USB.
@@tz8785 The clowns at Apple don't use USB-C on the iPhone. That's the rub.....
@@tz8785 "What's there to talk about?" And then you proceed to dismiss the elephant in the room you perfectly know is there.
Oh you mean to convert them to usb C?
But iPhones already use USB PD?
Would've loved to see Linus doing some soldering action and hardwire a USB-C female end into the old consoles
Why not go all the way and have a USB multiport for charging , screen and controll?
@@matsv201: Graphics output requires a fairly powerful (and expensive) analog-to-digital converter like the OSSC, it makes more sense to use an external device that you can also use with other consoles.
Do you want Louis Rossmann to show up at LMG and slap the living ish out of Linus?
Why stop there? Make the controllers USB-C as well! USB-C all the things! /s
You can add usb c to the 3ds family of consoles with a cheap USB breakout and some soldering to connect it to the little metal pads that are for charging on the Dock
"Magicians are shifty swindlers who steal your ear quarters"
-Linus Sabastian, 2022
Whoever wrote this line deserves a raise.
Wasn't that a twonie?
I'm glad someone is finally speaking truth to power on this issue
@@bcr4832 I was about to say!
The USB-C to barrel jack cable is my favorite out of all the cables I own. Being able to make older devices operate similar to the new ones is pretty awesome. I have one that triggers for 20V that I use to charge my laptop and if I use it with a USB-C power bank that has a maximum output of 12V I can use it to power a router for easy testing.
Which USB-C to barrel jack cable are you using?
Give us an Amazon or AliExpress name to search up!
The item in specific is from amazon and is called "chenyang CY DC 5.5x2.5mm to Type C USB-C Input Cable for Laptop Notebook (5.5x2.5mm to USB-c)" and I paid around $9 for it. I use it with an Asus laptop and Netgear/Arris higher-power modems and routers. It's an awesome cable but be warned it triggers the highest available voltage output of whatever charger/power brick you plug it into so make absolute sure the voltages match!
@@snowdaysrule Thanks a ton man!
ugreen finally approved by linus, lol, i’ve been using their cables for years now
I love the idea of combining these, with mods for an HDMI out, making an old console so much more convenient for modern use.
Or DP, so Type-C Alternative Function can be used. This means USB both for power and video.
@@uis246 TVs don’t have DP and console players tend to play on TVs rather than monitors.
@@chronology556 the Gigabyte Aorus FO48U could be used it has DP and 120Hz, it´s an OLED 48 inch big
@@Humbulla93 Thats it, One tele has it its now a generational norm
@@chronology556 Then just get a USB-C hub that supports both HDMI and PD.🤣 (horrible idea actually, but every laptop maker is doing this)
Ya know after 30 years, Capacitors can leak out their fluid, or fall out of spec. It’s probably worth doing a recap on old Consoles. Capacitors are often employed to smooth out ripple, so it could play into these power supply considerations, among others. It could even change the sound of the output, maybe un-nostalgically, or it could restore childhood memory sonic performance.
oh yeah any old system like the nes/snes/sega master/genesis/pce/turbo 16 need to be recapped before trying to do something like this.
And that's even if they bothered to pay for decent capacitors in the first place. Some systems were built with the assumption that they wouldn't still be in use more than a few years later, so cheap capacitors.
@@SmallSpoonBrigade well that and there was capacitor shortage/issue in the late 80's and early 90's so they had to use them. This is why so many older systems like the Genesis and Turbo16 have damaged PCB's from cap leaks.
@@CecilTheDarkKnight234 Why? They're supplying the same voltages as the original power bricks. Unless you're suggesting you shouldn't use the console at all without a recap I think you misunderstood what happened in this video.
@@chublez No, it's you who isn't understanding. The console shouldn't be used at all without a re-cap. The caps will be seriously degraded and they will be well outside of their rated hours.
Quite enjoying LTT again at the moment. Keep up the good work and keep having fun!
I have a few adapters and cables to convert to USB C for older laptops, what I discovered is every single cable and adaptor like this will draw power even when no device is connected this is why when you see linus plug in the second cable with nothing connected it did a hand shake as if you plug in a standard cable that does not happen until a device is connected to the other end, so you technically cant live this sort of thing plugged in 24/7 unless you can turn the socket off as it will always be drawing power no matter what.
I have been researching to do just his thing. I was honestly going to first solder a USB-C replacement for all the mini and micro usb things first before moving on to triggers for other things. You seem to have solved my problem as I didn't know there were triggers that were switchable by soldering pads.
There are small $1 adapters on Aliexpress for all of your micro and mini usb to USB-C stuff. That's what I did. They even do an assortment of USB ribbon cable adapters in all sorts of configs!
An alternative I like is magnetic-tipped USB cables, which come with a variety of detachable tips: type C, micro-B, and Apple Lightning. The tips are low profile and you keep the appropriate tip in the device's charging port. The other end of the cable is USB type A male, which fits any USB charger that has a type A port (so it also fits the USB ports on a desktop pc or laptop pc).
I've seen two styles of magnetic-tipped USB cables: round tips and oval-ish tips. The round tips are good only for charging, but the oval-ish tips have pins for transmitting data too. I chose the oval-ish style, to be able to transfer files between my pc and smartphone.
I keep at least one charger + magnetic cable in each room in which I spend a lot of time, and I keep the appropriate tip in each device, so any charger+cable can charge any device. I didn't have to buy any chargers, because enough of the chargers that came with devices I'd purchased in the last 12 years have the type A port rather than a hard-wired cable.
A big advantage of keeping the tip in the device is that it eliminates wear & tear on the device's charging port. Last year I had to replace my cellphone because its charging port had become too finicky after several hundred cable insertions.
2 pin usb c is just nice. Also there are trigger boards with switches, for the times that you need some prototyping.
7:47 Capacitor charge! zap! bad! Should always be a disclaimer to discharge caps before fiddling around with an AC-DC converter board like that.
I really like the idea of having one charger for everything
But the woodworker side of me really loves how easy it is to clean sawdust out of the lightning port; that thing is invincible and so easy to get clean
The SNES and NES in most markets have internal FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIERS, so input polarity doesn't matter, they came with AC adapters, not DC adapters.
I am thankful for these videos from LTT so I don't get my ear quarters stolen!
I have a lot of adapters like this, including a magsafe connector for the MacBook.
Most of the time they work, but sometimes they just don't negotiate properly.
It's okay if you're at home but don't rely solely on these if you're on the move outside. Have a backup ready.
USB-C trigger boards make life so much easier as an electronics hobbyist, the ability to have a selection of voltages available out of a regular power bank with a standard cable just makes life better. My 10 year old laptop can now charge from my usb powerbank and my cheap party speaker that only had ac input now has usb-c courtesy of a $3 circuit board. When I travel now I can use the same anker charger for my phone, power bank, and laptop and it fits in the palm of my hand. The days of powerbanks taking all day to charge are gone too, the one I have is 20000mah and does 65w in/out.
make THIS video.
This is just the type of video I needed to figure out how to power my battery-powered Xgimi projector for family campouts. Thank you!
Funny timing. I just bought a few of these last week for my Super Famicom, N64 , Saturn, Genesis and OG PS1. Nice to see a big tech channel covering retro gaming stuff the way LTT has been recently. 👍👍
This video demonstrates what incredible progress has been made in the field of power delivery
9:56 I was kind of surprised when Linus said “monitors typically use anything from 12-20v power. Boom USB-c.” I have six 28” panels and all of the thick insulated AC cords physically take up a lot of space. I would love to replace them all with USB-c cords but I wonder how much amperage all of the monitors would need? And then with all that current how much thinner the USB-c cords would end up being compared to the AC cords anyway.
Maybe if there was a way to daisy chain all of the monitors with USB-c. Five of the displays are the exact same model.
You'd have to bypass the monitors' internal power supplies anyway, so that would be a serious undertaking. You could always use a Kill-A-Watt to see how much power they're using. My ASUS MG278Q (27" 1440p 144Hz TN) uses about 28W, so a 12V 3A power supply would be plenty.
@@dsgamecube most modern monitors have external power bricks, so that's not an issue at all.
With power, if your power supply is capable of the right voltage, working in watts is your friend. So look at the wattage of each individual monitor power brick and ensure that whatever supply you have can supply that amount of watts at the specified voltage multiplied by how many monitors you plug into it.
For example, 60watt monitor, and you want to run two of them off the one brick, it needs to be able to supply 120Watts to work.
I was hoping to simplify my monitor's power supply situation as well, but unfortunately mine uses 22V, which isn't within the USB-PD spec :(
If the monitors supported thunderbolt 3 or 4, you can easily daisy chain 3 monitors together for video and power. This would bring your total of 12 cables (1 for power, 1 for data) down to just 6 (1 to connect the first monitor in both sequences of 3 monitors, 2 for daisy chaining the other 2 monitors in each sequence). It also brings your total cables to your PC to just 2, 1 for each daisy chain sequence. If it's TB4 or 5, you can even add a storage device or two (YMMV) to either sequence.
If they don't have thunderbolt 3 or above though then you're not going to be able to daisy chain for video or power, unfortunately. You can plug 3 into 1 display adapter for less cables directly connected to your PC, freeing up ports on the PC itself, however. And plug 3 power cables into one brick . This doesn't reduce numbers of cables, but it does make cable management much smoother.
Plugable has great display extenders/hubs that are quite affordable. I have a 2 port ( though I'm pretty sure 3 and 4 port variants exist now too) that works flawlessly, literally never had an issue. (At time I purchased one:) They come in HDMI, Displayport, and combination variants for easy compatibility, and usb-a and usb-c plug types. Hopefully one of these solutions helps somewhat.
Re: barrel jack polarity- I had a sega master system, which my friend’s dad plugged in an NES adapter to. It ended up blowing a transistor, which sega replaced when I sent it in. Just a heads up for anyone trying this.
The NES and SNES original power supply outputs 9V AC! Since the circuit inside of the consoles can also take in 9V DC this method is valid, but some devices may not work with DC when they want AC. If you trying this you could damage your device.
MattKC did a video on this a few months back. In a lot of these consoles they'll take DC just fine, it just goes through the rectifier and continues onwards as intended.
@@samuelw4584 yes i know but the fact is still that on some device this could not work. And trying it without potentially damaging a device is not the greatest idea. The NES/Famicom and SNES as I mentions are devices that also accept DC because how they convert AC to DC which makes this “mod“ totally fine.
Like the idea, but I think its more advantageous to do something you would take with you like an eletric razor vs a console, so that you don't have to take its proprietery charger too.
The advantage here is reduced clutter moreso than anything else and I think it accomplishes that goal masterfully
My 2 Laptops,Toothbrush,Shaver,Flosser chargers have all been USB-C'efied
@@milesbush9589 The NES/SNES/GEN do benefit, but i think the PS1/DC/N64 don't gain anything since they don't have wall warts. If anything it makes it less convenient unless you already needed to replace the power supply and cant source a replacement
I still have my childhood NES console. Sadly the original controllers and wall-wart got lost and or thrown out over the years. But luckily I picked up a couple of Nintendo original NES controllers recently that look to be in good shape for a decent price. This seems like a good way to modernize the power delivery without having to look for a new wall-wart. Plus it can be used for more than just the NES. :)
This is really cool and something I've been trying to do for many of my devices at home. I've actually passed on buying some new devices that I wanted because they didn't have usb-c charging.
There is also the option of doing PoE for these 5v and 12v devices too!
PoE Texas and others have barrel to PoE adapters for sale so you could go that route too!
As someone who works with folks on GaN device R&D on a near daily basis (I mainly do characterisation such as SEM and XPS), seeing these devices perform so well in the market makes me happy :3
What advancement in GaN industry is going, fast charging everything? Become the microchip? I saw a phone that can take 220watt power and can charge full in under 10 minutes. It was amazing feeling of not to wait longer than go eating something and come back with full charge phone.
Having a large collection of old consoles and all of the power adapters that go with them, this is a game changer. This would simplify my set up tremendously! Will do some more research into this. Thank you LTT!
It would definitely make a small setup where you plug in one console at a time easier. Just plug a few things in the back, controllers in, and you're ready. Some video cables have multiple end connectors (e.g. SNES, X-BOX, Playstation 1/2).
Y’all have put out some truly great, informative vids over the years, and this one is right up at the top for me. Good shit.
For years I´ve been searching ways to reduce the amount of power adapters needed for my networking equipment (cable modem, ethernet switches and single board computers) and also have a energy backup in case of a power outage. Splicing a usb cable to deliver 5 volts or wire a dc power jack to the ups wasnt complicated, specially with the new ones that skip the ac inverter and have usb and 12v dc output for better efficiency. But using usb C is a game changer. Specially the replacement power supplies for old consoles. I remember it was expensive and time consuming to get a replacement power supply for the Dreamcast.
I've actually already done this with my old Wii! I used a 12volt trigger board and a 13 volt comparable USBC brick! So there is actually now a USBC female plug on the console! It works amazingly and is so much more convenient even for a console that doesn't really move.
The Video I didnt know, I need.
I really wanted to do something like this, but just could not finde chargers with the voltages (specifically +12V) i need.
Thank you guys! I can now finally contine one of my hundred projects.
There's good reasons to change the power supplies in consoles, I've already done a few MEGADRIVES/Genesis and MasterSystems replacing the 7805s with buck converter modules means there's no heatsink required and cuts down the overall temps which is noice. and for the other systems Dreamcast, Saturn etc it can help with failing PSUs and be more efficient for installing mods like ODD replacements. There's some really nice options for GameGears and Gameboys too for USB type C.
Really? So basically I can rip out my Dreamcast psu safely and mod it that way?! Oh I'm kinda hype to resurrect this bad boy, been sitting gathering dust in my collection shelves
@@Chronostra did you watch the video? they do that in the video
@@TheSynrgy1987 watch the video? Yes. Understand the explanation? no.
I've been using their 100W charger and a couple of their cables for a three months now. It's very convenient, I don't have to carry anything else, just one brick and a couple of cables to charge everything! It's doing a good job charging my laptop, phone and smart watches at the same time - I'm glad I bought them and not anything else
Just curious, what's better quality in your experience, ugreen, baseus or anker? Is ugreen really have a good track record on their products?
I didn't have a chance to use Baseus or Anker, but from reviews, teardowns and tests that I've seen - Ugreen's 100w charger built with high quality components and there shouldn't be any issues with it. The packaging and brick itself feels like an Apple product, in my opinion.
Cables that I use feels premium and robust, one of the best sleeved cables I've seen and used.
My first UGreen PD brick lasted about 4 months before it kicked the can. Do you guys have any experience with short lifespans of their products?
at many workplaces, tripping over cables is one of the biggest working hazards. We have floor tank sockets which help a bit, but I hate how not every powerbrick fits in there or use the same C13/C14 plug. So I need extension cables and socket-hubs and a cablechain stuffed with 8+ beefy cables.
So you're telling me I could get rid of all those beefy 230V (Europe) cables, and just use one good quality USB-C powerhub to power-delivery my whole desk?
That's a game changer.
Linus: *I will put USB-C on everything.*
Apple: *Write that down! Write that down!*
You mean don't write that down
@@gwenryanmillett Nope, definitely "write that down. It may come in handy 10 years from now!"
Correction:
Apple: Look away. Look away!
@@gwenryanmillett They legally have to now because of Europe
@@Demonologist013 Kinda. They are required to have USB-C in all devices that are powered by a cable. If they switch to only wireless charging, they don't need to add it.
I would love to do that on laptops that don't support usb-c pd natively
I love the skits during your explanation! Y’all need to write those in more often, Linus!
As an old IC tech for nuke plants, I so appreciate you do not get scared to toss out some real electronic details! Keeps me coming back :)
yea...some of us are lucky to be related to engineers...but electrical knowledge needs to be more pervasive in tech. some things dont need software to improve.
Homer
I have been thinking to change my laptop to USB C for a while but didn't want to mess it up. I'm so glad to see someone make a video about it.
Look on Aliexpress, they have cables. I ran my Asus laptop for years off usb C.
Note: garage door photoeyes are not just powered, they send a signal over the wires back to the head unit, as on modern units, they are "monitored" to make sure they are working correctly.
So you cant just add USB-C, unless you were just going to run a 20' ish USB-C cable to connect the 2 terminals. but that would be alot more expensive than just using the low voltage wire they come with, or cat-5 wire that builders usually bury into the wall/ceiling to hide the wiring >.
I know people like to keep retro consoles "Stock" but when it comes to power bricks, it can be a little dangerous. Components do degrade over time, capacitors leak, electrical isolation material becomes flakey. So with most being 30+ years old. This is actually a really smart solution.
Last thing you want is the rectifier failing and it shunting straight 230v into your beloved old console :S
A word of caution for anyone trying to do this: Many USB-C PD wall adapters are designed to be battery chargers, not power supplies. What's the difference? Power supplies have the capacity to hold up to inrush current, peak loads, tight tolerance on voltage and ripple, etc. Even a 5-10watt device (like a cable modem) on a 45watt name brand USB-C PD adapter is not a good combo. Another example of the difference between a power supply and battery charger is the example Linus gave, of how the power is momentarily interrupted when plugging or unplugging other ports on the wall adapter. USB-C PD wall adapters were never designed to be power supplies, and you can tell.
Wow, this is something super useful to my day to day.
Hilarious handshake skit! Great work by those two
i bought a few products from ugreen and they were all great besides a silicone ubsc to lighting cable it just broke like a bone on the lightning port side so if you consider buying any cables from them i recommend buying the meshed ones.
This video alone would be the greatest sponsorship campaign for UGREEN products
These console mods and adapters are great ideas! If there's one thing I worry about with vintage consoles its is the power supplies giving up the ghost. Some of these are very difficult to replace due to their rather proprietary nature. Being able to power them using a standard that's gonna be around for many years to come (I hope) will hopefully keep these machines going for a lot longer. (Of course this only half works with things like the Dreamcast. I'm more worried about the motor in that thing calling it quits. Perhaps there's an SD card solution for that thing...)
>Dreamcast
>Perhaps there's an SD card solution for that thing...
There are already ODEs. GDEMU is a popular one
@@Code7Unltd Excellent news! Good to hear that such a product exists. Those GD ROMS and their drives won't live forever.
Most of the SNES, NES, and Genesis power bricks have a single electrolytic capacitor that simply needs to be changed out, and they're as good as new. Same goes for the internal PSU on things like the Dreamcast, PS1 and Sega Saturn, a few new caps and it's like new. The power supplies, very rarely, outright die.
I use Triad Magnetic replacement PSU's. It's a lot cheaper than the better quality USB power options (if you want quality supplies). On power boards you can access inside the console, I just recap those with Nichicon capacitors.
speaking about dreamcast specifically 100% DEFINITLY DO NOT DO A USB C power brick for one it needs more power then a usb c cable can even handle and will more then likely fail fry the console and probabally start a fire
theres already other options for it anyway
Hell yeah this is helpful
That's awesome. I love that my Ugreen charger supports Samsungs Super Fast charging protocol.
Super Famicom, Mega Drive, Master System all run on 9V~10V same plug same polarity. I have a big clumsy 3 output adaptor from back in the days where one hunk powers a game console and a Game Doctor and a CDrom in all. vs 3 seperate power bricks and its Universal current too ;)
Might aswell put it on the rtx 4090 at this point, even that will perform better than the current fireplace one
Currently USB c pd can deliver up to 100 watts, it will need 6 USBs c to make it, but USB 4 pd will in theory deliver up to 250 so 3 of those will do it too
@@andrescarrasco1248 it was a joke.
@@DanielGyimesi We don't do that around these parts. Not when USB-C is involved.
@@DanielGyimesi I know but it's actually possible, in fact I wouldn't be surprised at all if some brand of both PSUs and GPUs decide to try it, pretty sure because of the amount of USB Cs that are being made right now, it would make financial sense
I've been at it for awhile...almost everything that can be is powered by USB-C now. Simple Aliexpress adapters handled 99% of it. And buck / boost converters for the rest.
I have an SP404sx sequencer, and i cut out the AA batt compartment, and put a battery bank in it, then added a usbc port for charging. Lasts like 3 times as long and its an absolute dream
There is a catch:
The power delivery bricks with multiple usb c outlets, renegotiate the protocol when a device is plugged or unplugged.
So, your console will reset when is connected to the brick and another devices is plugged.
I learn that when I was using a usb c powered mini pc, when I want to connect the monitor, the PC resets itself
I love these types of videos. Can you make a video on different types of usbc cables (power delivery, ect)
It's kind of funny to see this video right after implementing USB-C PD for a new product. Can confirm, USB PD is a labyrinth of optional features, most of which don't matter and are a bit of a waste of time to look at. Linus did a surprising good job describing how it works :).
Type C is amazing and the flute in SMB3 is in the third level
the fresh hand shake is needed to correctly distribute power, each gan unit will outline what its power distribution ratio is when different ports are under load
If anything, I want a USB-C port on my old arcade sticks. It still bothers me that a number of arcade stick manufacturers use proprietary ports (even if they have detachable cables). Hell, I wish that Sony would do a reprint of the DualShock 4 that uses USB-C.
They can't do a reprint of something that never existed in the first place. Sony never made that lol
Just swap out the PCB, bro. Arcade sticks are only ever dated by the PCB, the rest is compatible 40 years back.
might be worth opening up and see how its connected on the inside because it might just be a passthrough port for the detachable cable so then you only have to replace that. I use a Neutrik usb a,b for my own made arcadestick and could easily swap it to something else and there are loads of options. So I hope they made it easy to change cause then it should be an easy and cheap fix to get it to usbc 😅.
I also wanted to see if I could change my ds4 to usb c but that seemed not worth it at the time
@@chrisconaway2334 explain
Look into Brook converters
I understand that Usb-C is universal but you still need the barrel end since the Usb-C port is only for the charger side... Since these systems aren't really portable, wouldn't it make more sense just to buy a universal barrel charger? It's cheaper and u can use it on all ur devices that have a barrel port since u can change the voltage output and the barrel size.
yea....he shoehorned the use case for the sponsor. now hes looking like apple....selling adapter adapters.
This is exactly the same item I bought! Very good product from Ugreen. Very reliable, as all my Ugreen bought products are still working even the ones from 2017. A real competitive rival to Anker, imo.
This is absolutely the best application for this sort of power delivery. Honestly, I feel like we still need an Anthony and Alex build video of some sort to construct something retro-epic!!
This, yes please. Thank you!
yes! like the origin big o but with retro consoles or something alike
This is gonna be massive specifically for touring production people like myself that have to carry a ton of power bricks with a lot of our dc gear. Converting to usb-c will save a ton of weight and room in my pack
Make sure you check the current requirements before you get too excited. USB PD can supply most common voltages, but the current is more limited. Don't expect to more than 3 amps out of most setups - 5 amps if you shell out for more expensive chargers and cables.
all the pedal supplies :D
UGreen is awesome. I usually go them for USB power cables and them and Uni for display cables
that is really cool and now I want everything converted to usb-c as well
Actually, the SNES AC adapter doesn't output DC (at least the PAL version I used to have). It does output about 9 volts, but it's still AC when it comes out of the barrel plug, and the console internally rectifies it into DC... YEAH, so, polarity doesn't really matter in this case. That's why you didn't kill the console.
Given that NES and MD/GEN can use the same AC adapters as SNES, I'll just assume they do that too.
Same for the US NTSC version. 9V AC.
In the pictures they've used, the genisis says it's outputting DC voltage, meaning it would care if reverse polled. You're right that the snes outputs AC, so internal rectification will take care of any reverse polarity issues,
Linus smells nice
I converted my childhood GBA SP to USB-C a few months ago. It even outputs the audio over USB-C, so I bought one of those splitter dongles (without the DAC) and now I can charge it and use headphones at the same time!
They should offer this for fibre onts and routers. The biggest resistance we used to get for sign ups was unlike copper lines the fibre doesn't work in a power outage...but it could.
If you need a special cable, might as well stay with the barrel jacks.
An alternative I like is magnetic-tipped USB cables, which come with a variety of detachable tips: type C, micro-B, and Apple Lightning. The tips are low profile and you keep the appropriate tip in the device's charging port. The other end of the cable is USB type A male, which fits any USB charger that has a type A port (so it also fits the USB ports on a desktop pc or laptop pc).
I've seen two styles of magnetic-tipped USB cables: round tips and oval-ish tips. The round tips are good only for charging, but the oval-ish tips have pins for transmitting data too. I chose the oval-ish style, to be able to transfer files between my pc and smartphone.
I keep at least one charger + magnetic cable in each room in which I spend a lot of time, and I keep the appropriate tip in each device, so any charger+cable can charge any device. I didn't have to buy any chargers, because enough of the chargers that came with devices I'd purchased in the last 12 years have the type A port rather than a hard-wired cable.
A big advantage of keeping the tip in the device is that it eliminates wear & tear on the device's charging port. Last year I had to replace my cellphone because its charging port had become too finicky after several hundred cable insertions.
I use magnetic cables as well. There's really no reason not to if you don't have usb C devices.
Now I got some new projects next year.. Thank you Linus
There are cases where you don't want to use USB or a switch mode power supply (small light wall warts): Audio equipment. Both of these, especially USB adapters, cause a lot of interference when it comes to audio gear. You want a solid, non switching power supply like those old chunky wall warts.
Isn't that the truth. I have an old synth that I can't plug into a powerstrip with other stuff or else it has a ton of interference. I haven't tested it with a powerconditioner, though. That'd probably work fine
UGreen seem to have come from nowhere, but I now buy a lot of their stuff. All rock solid. Had a lot of issues with Anker over the years
Stop shilling Amazon garbage.
10:10 you forget iphone
A video to convert a multimonitor setup using c13 power cables over to all be UCB C PD would be cool
I have an old (2004) monitor that I don't usually plug in because its power brick gets _hot_ (which means wasted energy). I wonder how hard it'd be to convert to USB C just to bypass the power brick for greater power efficiency. It's such a great monitor that still looks lovely today, even in its 4:3 glory, so it'd be great to give it a second life!
A large part of that may simply be that your monitor uses quite a lot of power - which in turn could also be too much power to be practical for usb-c(aside from sorting a suitable adaptor.
If it's using a heavy transformer based power adaptor(generally only if it's a 'wall-wart', not a brick part way down the cables), replacing that with a normal switch mode supply(with the same voltage, at least as much current and the same spec plug) would make it more efficient.
@@DoubleMonoLR Its power converter is part way down the line, but yeah might look up if there's an adaptor to the same voltage + current that's built with more modern tech!
Nice video
Great video. I imagine this is going to solve a lot of headaches for retro gamers who want to keep using the original consoles over the next few decades.
I want the short circuit hoodie bundle to go on sale. lol
One thing to note about the consoles that originally took AC power is that if they weren't switch-mode (the N64 at least is not) this also fixes that as an issue.
I have a lot of ugreen products and they have all pretty much worked great.
Linus: How to Put USB-C Power on ANYTHING (almost)
Apple: Dongle Envy!
That fancy cable with the chip is a neat idea if you don’t have a spouse or child that might disconnect something and reconnect it to the wrong device. It’s well worth the extra effort to mod the console with a smart USB-C port that will work with any USB-C cable. That said, I also don’t bother using any of my old consoles from my childhood, because I’m fine with building little emulation devices that look neat-but I might consider ridding myself of micro-B connectors on devices that are large enough to support a change.
Any excuse to get rid of micro USB is a good excuse
I've been looking for a while, for a USB-C powered portable heater, haven't found anything yet except sketchy 12v car heaters. I'd love to find one that can take advantage of the PD protocol!
If that car 12V heater doesn't exceed 3A(36W), you can just buy PD cable that trigger 12v from PD and has on the other side female car plug. However I have doubts about such application since heater is very power hungry device.
I was head scratching about the monitors part because all my monitors take AC directly. Even the Odyssey G9 Neo I bought this year.
I take it the DC thing is something the cheaper monitors are starting to do?
In some ways it would make sense for monitors to move towards DC, because in theory you should be able to run a single USB-C cable from the computer to the monitor and use it for both power and data.
The only reason they can take AC "directly" is because they have internal power supply adapters that convert to DC. Afaik all monitors use DC power for their panels. My monitor (Samsung C27CHG) isn't a "cheap" monitor, yet it still has an external power brick, so it's not necessarily a "cheap" things to have an external power brick, I would say it's the norm in fact ime. Internal power supplies seem to be more of a luxury, than external bricks seem to be a cheap-out imho.
Using one cable from a PC for both power delivery and data would be heckin' sweet though. Problem is if you connect something like a Nintendo Switch, which wouldn't do power delivery. And even then, I doubt most PCs have USB-PD up to 100W. My monitor uses 100W so there's no way my PC is gonna be powering it anytime soon.
@@gaygekko If I look in the Odyssey line-up, the cheaper monitors in the lineup take 22V DC and 24V DC, and the more expensive one takes AC. So that's what I'm drawing on there, just what one company is doing inside one lineup. The "cheaper" ones in that line-up aren't exactly "cheap" either. (And what I said in my original comment was "cheaper".)
But in saying that, my 27" ASUS (which _was_ cheap) takes AC. _And_ , the Benq GL2480, an _even cheaper_ monitor that I just bought this month - also takes AC.
So I dunno about it being the norm, but I'll acknowledge that I've at least discovered some monitors that take DC. I wonder why manufacturers are doing it, is it so they can reuse the external bricks across multiple monitors? I think there's potentially some benefits to getting things certified if you do that, because the monitor itself is no longer an AC device. But then if that's the case, how is it that all my monitors, even the brand new ones, have internal AC?
Speaking of powering via PC, whatever happened to the monitor's AC cable being connected via the PC's power supply? That was convenient for reducing cable mess, but all of a sudden PCs stopped doing that, and I don't think I ever saw an explanation for it.
@@trejkaz trejkaz Huh, okay fair enough then. Didn't know budget monitors were starting to do it as well. As for why? Well if I had to guess, I think it's a lot easier to make a product with an external power supply. It's less complex, you can use the same power brick for many different products, it's easy to swap it out if it breaks or if you're shipping the monitor to different regions with different electrical grids (100V, 240V, 50Hz, 60Hz, etc.), and you don't need to spend time engineering a solution with room for a more complex and compact internal power supply.
However as a consumer, I would argue that an internal power supply is much nicer to deal with. Less cable clutter, easier to transport and set up, looks nicer.
So an internal power supply is a nice-to-have feature. I remember the first original Xbox One shipped with an external power supply, but then the smaller and more powerful One X and One S came out a few years later with internal power supplies, which I think was a big improvement.
As for connecting the monitor to your PC's PSU, I don't think I remember that at all tbh. It sounds interesting, but also highly impractical. I mean, what if I wanna use my monitor with a laptop or some other device that doesn't have a big PSU to power the monitor? You'd be forced to only use the monitor with your desktop PC, right? And then, you'd have to buy a much beefier PSU as well, you would easily have to add like 100W to the PSU's capacity. But interesting nonetheless. If you find the name of an old monitor with that technology, be sure to let me know, I'd love to look more into it!
@@gaygekko Nah, it wasn't like you imagine.
If you had a laptop (which almost nobody around me seemed to have at the time, maybe because they were prohibitively expensive or just not convenient enough yet?) the monitor still took the standard 3-prong cable, so you could power it from any standard cable including one which went straight to a wall socket.
The difference was, you also had a cable which was a male 3 prong to female 3 prong cable, so you could run the power from the PC's power supply.
I don't think it contributed to the wattage on the PC power supply, but was more like a convenience, like having a double adapter built into the computer. It was particularly nice if you had to run an extension cable to get power to the computer. These days you're pretty much forced to put a power strip next to every PC because the option was taken away from us.
So it wasn't a difference with the monitor at all, but a difference with the computer. If you picked up a sufficiently old computer, you could find an example of it and probably connect that thing to a brand new monitor. Or possibly to the monitor's external power brick, because a bunch of those things also take the same 3-prong cable.
For an example of a power supply with this, see SeaSonic SSA-200G.
After last night's WAN Show I'd laugh sooooo hard, if Today's video was sponsored by Anker and not Ugreen. xD Don't get me wrong. I understand LTT needs to finish everything that they are contracted to do with Anker, and breaking the contract would be a bad idea, but the timing of the video would be hilarious.
Didn't catch the stream what's the issue if you care to explain
@@Gamer-nc8qp user privacy getting fucked, as usual
@@Gamer-nc8qp Sure. Paul from Paul's Hardware YT channel is the original source for this if I remember correctly. Eufy is Anker's sub-company (English isn't my first language, so I don't remember how that type of companies are called) that makes smart appliences like scales or door bells. It seams that Eufy, allegedly is sending images from those smart door bells to their servers with AI face recognition giving unique IDs to everybody on those photos. Offiicialy all the recordings were supposed to be stored locally, but when this got brought up Eufy said it's just for notification purposes, and they delete all the footage. However even after deleting your entire profile you're able to still access your data online, so it looks like they lied again. On top of that the API sends that data unencrypted so you can use VLC player to watch other people's surveilence footage. Linus on WAN said that LTT will not work with Anker in the future or take sponsorships from them. That's why I wrote that if they already signed a contract that forces them to publish X amount of Anker promos in their future videos they should just do it, because breaking a contract like that could cause Linus to pay a fee to Anker and I think it's better to play those adds (and add the info about the allegations alongside) then to give Anker more money.
@@Ryuu44 interesting
@@Ryuu44 Oof thats annoying, I currently use eufy cameras but i have been planning to upgrade to a frigate setup, guess i should get on with that
Seeing linus work on stuff is way more entertaining than linus talking about something