The spacers he is talking about are hub piloted which means the weight of the truck is evenly distributed to the center of the wheel and not on your studs. Have a great weekend.
When I broke out in 1980, VERY FEW pipeline welders had 4WD. The contractor would pay, I think, $5 a day if you had a 4WD and used it. Guess which welder got sent to the worst spot on the ROW. LOL
I kept having the same problem w my dually 3500 service trucks with a lot of consyant payload weight on top of the rear axle I finally stopped running 3500 and went to 5500 so so so much better with a ton of weight always on the rear end
Great job Austin, you did great work but I would have used jack stands for extra safety. It all worked out for you this time. Stay safe around there and keep up the good videos and the fun you have. You are appreciated . Fred.
Dude, put some jack stands under the axle just in case that bottle jack fails or something happens. Don’t be that guy who messes himself up while filming it. Haven’t you been doing construction/manuel type work most your life? Need to be safe out there bud. Hate to see something happen to you and miss out on your future content.
Good job brotha.👍👍 What I do when making any kind of repair that requires taking it apart and having any kind of oil coming out, is that I put a foil pan underneath where the oil will be dripping to avoid oil on the concrete floor. Good job and keep the videos coming 👌👌👌👍👍👍
My rig has 19.5 with a spacer on the frontend to help clearance. With the 19.5s I don’t need the spacers. Thanks for the info on studs and maintenance.
As others have said, get some jack stands under that thing. Also, it looks like you've got plenty of extra material on those studs. Dorman makes them in several lengths. Why not see if they have a shorter one that doesn't require taking the whole floater apart to replace? You could even cut a little off the end to make them work.
Good tip when using a hammer with anything with threads is run the nut or lug nut flush with the edge of where the hammer will hit so you don’t mess up the threads and you have more surface area
Broke studs 4 times, the last time the wheels came off and passed me driving down the road. Bought the proper offset wheels to eliminate the spacers, problem solved.
Good pipeline contractors cut ROW that dont require a lift kit. Just avoid the low rent outfits that ask you to do things that you know will tear your truck up. Ive never had a lift and dont see the point in the added headaches and extra money. Generally a good contractor cuts a ROW you can drive a honda civic up and down.
Great video always good to learn how to repair your own rig it will save you thousands in the long run a random recommendation is get you a set of sellstrom knee pads they put the strap away from your knees and last 10x longer
Austin; come on man, the bare minimum for a professional coffee drinker is a 24oz mug. And 2, 48oz thermos bottles; much the same as a spare gas can. Enjoy your favorite blend. 😀
12:40 have to fully seat the rotor by spinning the hub tightening the lock ring till its stiff to turn then tapping it with a deadblow hammer spinning it more over and over again till the whole hub and disk brake is centered in the caliper. for how big those are they spin very easy. single wheel is nearly the same as the dual
4:20 There is a tool company that sells mostly to the automotive and industrial industries called Grey Pneumatic and they sell sockets that are rated for both impact and hand use that are thin walled like normal chrome sockets. If you search for GP Duo sockets you can find them being sold in lots of places but since their primary market is not direct to consumers(they might be considered a "tool truck" brand) you have to be careful where you buy them to be covered under their warranty. I've had the full range of Duo sockets for about 9 years now and the only thing I don't like about them is the 1/4" drive ratchet handle is a bit on the small side for me and the socket sizes are laser etched so they can be scratched off if you manage to use them in a very tight spot with the socket in contact with something. They also don't make them in a 3/4" drive size which I am disappointed about but otherwise my socket sets have been holding up great.
Awesome job!! I grew up on a small dairy farm in the central valley of California in the 70s and 80s. We hauled cattle and fed cattle in the pasture all with 2 wheel drive trucks with basically stock size tires (mud grips of course). And we got stuck a lot. I got a 1969 Chevy 4x4 3/4 ton. It was lifted with 36" tall tires, but it needed work. I became a big fan of big tires and a mild lift. It was/is a great help. I did not lift our current truck (2004 GMC 2500hd 4x4 Sierra, duramax). I regret it. But it was not financially feasible. Diesels are heavy and slow. And the truck bottoms out on levees, even going slow, and it jars my back. But I did not want to affect the on road towability. Unfortunately, the 69 has been down for quite a few years, which forces the use of the duramax for going off road. Even now, I'm 56, I still like a taller truck for ranch use. On road, it doesn't matter. Thank you for all the information you pass along.
I assume the spacer is due to wider tires. Leading to longer studs. Friend of mine has always insisted on dually to only use factory studs. I see a comment on here about arp brand studs. That may be the cure in your situation with the spacers. Probably can't get a factory stud in that length. This is a very serious issue. Damage to you or the truck and flying tires on the highway killing someone. I saw a truck loose them on the highway. In that case only damaged the truck.
I’ve been single hand since 2015 finally got my first weldin wagon this year. It is lifted and a 6 speed manual and I can say I and blessed and grateful for the truck the manual transmission does get old especially if I were to mainline everyday. Just a lot of extra wear on the clutch. So that can be good for thought for guys just looking at getting a truck
Hey Austin, been pipelining lately (front capping on 16” 10” & 4” triple line) it’s my first year of pipeline welding, I was wondering if you could do a video on or just answer a question I have, how does one work their way up to become g a bead hand ?
Not a genius here but those studs are basically crap. I didn’t mind you torquing them up to 75. But 120 to 130 is way too much for that bolt diameter. I wouldn’t go higher than 90 myself. Next time you do the job, do yourself a favor and get yourself ARP studs and be done with it. That torque wrench ratchet head you destroyed wasn’t necessary. Try using a dedicated breaker bar to free your tight nuts and bolts. Just use the torque wrench for torqueing. Great video Austin.
130 ft-lb is the # out of the owners manual for my ‘17 SRW. I was thinking the washer type nuts on the DRW’s were 140, but I haven’t had one for over 10 years, so haven’t looked at recent specs.
For the love of God PLEASE AT LEAST PUT SOMTHING UNDER THE AXLE BESHIDES THE PUMP JACK when you start. Life is a little harder working off road on our equipment. I have over 40 years working off road and a good PM helps prevent unexpected lost time because of break down. STAY SAFE and I enjoy your presentations.
Never, Never, Never trust any jack. And never use cement blocks for support. In this case, you could place the tire and rim under the axle while working. At least if the jack leaked down or you shook the truck, the tire could keep the truck off of you.
The center hole in the rims must fit snug on the hub or the weight of the vebicle will be transfered to the hub through the studs, causing eventual failure of the studs.
Hey Austin thanks for the thumbs up on my comment from your video short that I commented on the other day I just wanted to let you know that I did finish my video and I uploaded it to TH-cam so if you want to watch it and check it out yourself and by all means please do so since it's your video that inspired me to build what I built the title of my video is " Another way to get comfortable with your horizontal pipe welding" anyhow what I built helps a person to stay off of their pipe completely while staying comfortable doing the weld without burning their arms or having to deal with the heat from resting their hands on the pipe they are welding. Anyways I hope you enjoy the video thanks again for putting your video short out there !
I hate working on my vehicles because as you say, I'm no mechanic. I had to replace a stud once and rather than beat on that thin hub section, use a nut to draw the splines of the stud in.
I used to lift stuff as a younger guy but these days I run it from the factory if I need more then a stock truck I don’t go there with it is my opinion
The spacers he is talking about are hub piloted which means the weight of the truck is evenly distributed to the center of the wheel and not on your studs. Have a great weekend.
Right on!
It's called hubcentric. It's why universal wheels suck balls. Nothing new.
Hubcentric. "Wheel is centered by the hub"
Back in the day. Rig welders did not lift trucks have big tires or even 4WD. That was a luxury. Good video.
When I broke out in 1980, VERY FEW pipeline welders had 4WD. The contractor would pay, I think, $5 a day if you had a 4WD and used it. Guess which welder got sent to the worst spot on the ROW. LOL
I kept having the same problem w my dually 3500 service trucks with a lot of consyant payload weight on top of the rear axle
I finally stopped running 3500 and went to 5500 so so so much better with a ton of weight always on the rear end
Safety Sallie's coming out of the woodwork.
Great job Austin, you did great work but I would have used jack stands for extra safety. It all worked out for you this time. Stay safe around there and keep up the good videos and the fun you have. You are appreciated . Fred.
Dude, put some jack stands under the axle just in case that bottle jack fails or something happens. Don’t be that guy who messes himself up while filming it. Haven’t you been doing construction/manuel type work most your life? Need to be safe out there bud. Hate to see something happen to you and miss out on your future content.
Austin whenever you remove the hub always replace the seal saves you having to pull it apart for a leak jb
Good job brotha.👍👍 What I do when making any kind of repair that requires taking it apart and having any kind of oil coming out, is that I put a foil pan underneath where the oil will be dripping to avoid oil on the concrete floor. Good job and keep the videos coming 👌👌👌👍👍👍
Get hubcentric spacers won’t have that problem
My rig has 19.5 with a spacer on the frontend to help clearance. With the 19.5s I don’t need the spacers. Thanks for the info on studs and maintenance.
Great video brother but Please get yourself a set of jack stands. I have seen accidents happen that could have been solved by using stands.
As others have said, get some jack stands under that thing. Also, it looks like you've got plenty of extra material on those studs. Dorman makes them in several lengths. Why not see if they have a shorter one that doesn't require taking the whole floater apart to replace? You could even cut a little off the end to make them work.
They needed to be that long to get through the spacers and both wheels
Good tip when using a hammer with anything with threads is run the nut or lug nut flush with the edge of where the hammer will hit so you don’t mess up the threads and you have more surface area
Excellent information....
Use ARP studs, never have that issue again. The dorman stuff might as well be butter bolts.
Love the business model or Moro. Same as i
Thank you 🙏🏽
Michael Cera from Superbad 🕺
Need to put the truck on jack stands. Only have one shot to be wrong about working on a bottle like that.
Just built my first rig on a 96 f250 was considering rear wheel spacers for that poked out look what is your opinion.
Mans speaking wisdom. Listen to him. Have a truck for work and have a truck for play. Do NOT play with your work truck. Play with your play truck.
Do you not plan on pipelining anymore?
A dab of red loctite an torque them down. All it took to get mine off was a little 8 dollar torch pen and a minute on the stud an they come right off
Broke studs 4 times, the last time the wheels came off and passed me driving down the road. Bought the proper offset wheels to eliminate the spacers, problem solved.
I run 2in on a 2000 k3500 no problem with 35s
What size lift is on your dodge?
arp studs.
get some new spacers bora is a good brand
👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏
Good pipeline contractors cut ROW that dont require a lift kit. Just avoid the low rent outfits that ask you to do things that you know will tear your truck up. Ive never had a lift and dont see the point in the added headaches and extra money. Generally a good contractor cuts a ROW you can drive a honda civic up and down.
I envy your gumption. I would have just cut those old studs off and pushed em' out the back hahaha
That crossed my mind but then i wouldn’t have been able to get the new ones in
@@arosswelding Very true! See im not thinking haha great video though man. I learned somethin'
Great video always good to learn how to repair your own rig it will save you thousands in the long run a random recommendation is get you a set of sellstrom knee pads they put the strap away from your knees and last 10x longer
Austin; come on man, the bare minimum for a professional coffee drinker is a 24oz mug.
And 2, 48oz thermos bottles; much the same as a spare gas can. Enjoy your favorite blend. 😀
12:40 have to fully seat the rotor by spinning the hub tightening the lock ring till its stiff to turn then tapping it with a deadblow hammer spinning it more over and over again till the whole hub and disk brake is centered in the caliper. for how big those are they spin very easy. single wheel is nearly the same as the dual
4:20 There is a tool company that sells mostly to the automotive and industrial industries called Grey Pneumatic and they sell sockets that are rated for both impact and hand use that are thin walled like normal chrome sockets. If you search for GP Duo sockets you can find them being sold in lots of places but since their primary market is not direct to consumers(they might be considered a "tool truck" brand) you have to be careful where you buy them to be covered under their warranty. I've had the full range of Duo sockets for about 9 years now and the only thing I don't like about them is the 1/4" drive ratchet handle is a bit on the small side for me and the socket sizes are laser etched so they can be scratched off if you manage to use them in a very tight spot with the socket in contact with something. They also don't make them in a 3/4" drive size which I am disappointed about but otherwise my socket sets have been holding up great.
Awesome job!! I grew up on a small dairy farm in the central valley of California in the 70s and 80s. We hauled cattle and fed cattle in the pasture all with 2 wheel drive trucks with basically stock size tires (mud grips of course). And we got stuck a lot. I got a 1969 Chevy 4x4 3/4 ton. It was lifted with 36" tall tires, but it needed work. I became a big fan of big tires and a mild lift. It was/is a great help. I did not lift our current truck (2004 GMC 2500hd 4x4 Sierra, duramax). I regret it. But it was not financially feasible. Diesels are heavy and slow. And the truck bottoms out on levees, even going slow, and it jars my back. But I did not want to affect the on road towability. Unfortunately, the 69 has been down for quite a few years, which forces the use of the duramax for going off road. Even now, I'm 56, I still like a taller truck for ranch use. On road, it doesn't matter. Thank you for all the information you pass along.
I assume the spacer is due to wider tires. Leading to longer studs. Friend of mine has always insisted on dually to only use factory studs. I see a comment on here about arp brand studs. That may be the cure in your situation with the spacers. Probably can't get a factory stud in that length. This is a very serious issue. Damage to you or the truck and flying tires on the highway killing someone. I saw a truck loose them on the highway. In that case only damaged the truck.
Another thing to remember only a rich man can afford cheap tools 😆
And make sure you have wheel blocks under your wheels
I’ve been single hand since 2015 finally got my first weldin wagon this year. It is lifted and a 6 speed manual and I can say I and blessed and grateful for the truck the manual transmission does get old especially if I were to mainline everyday. Just a lot of extra wear on the clutch. So that can be good for thought for guys just looking at getting a truck
Looks great Austin, cheers, Paul in Florida
Hey Austin, been pipelining lately (front capping on 16” 10” & 4” triple line) it’s my first year of pipeline welding, I was wondering if you could do a video on or just answer a question I have, how does one work their way up to become g a bead hand ?
Not a genius here but those studs are basically crap. I didn’t mind you torquing them up to 75. But 120 to 130 is way too much for that bolt diameter. I wouldn’t go higher than 90 myself. Next time you do the job, do yourself a favor and get yourself ARP studs and be done with it. That torque wrench ratchet head you destroyed wasn’t necessary. Try using a dedicated breaker bar to free your tight nuts and bolts. Just use the torque wrench for torqueing. Great video Austin.
FYI Ram trucks call for 130ftlb. Atleast my 2018 DRW does.
130 ft-lb is the # out of the owners manual for my ‘17 SRW. I was thinking the washer type nuts on the DRW’s were 140, but I haven’t had one for over 10 years, so haven’t looked at recent specs.
For the love of God PLEASE AT LEAST PUT SOMTHING UNDER THE AXLE BESHIDES THE PUMP JACK when you start. Life is a little harder working off road on our equipment. I have over 40 years working off road and a good PM helps prevent unexpected lost time because of break down. STAY SAFE and I enjoy your presentations.
Never, Never, Never trust any jack. And never use cement blocks for support. In this case, you could place the tire and rim under the axle while working. At least if the jack leaked down or you shook the truck, the tire could keep the truck off of you.
Exactly the block van break really easy
Very true I almost died changing out transmission fluid my first time… second I got out from under my card the weld on my jack gave out… never again…
Very true I almost died changing out transmission fluid my first time… second I got out from under my card the weld on my jack gave out… never again…
And you under that truck with just a hydraulic jack holding it up. Don't become a squish mo dee. Use your jack stands.
The center hole in the rims must fit snug on the hub or the weight of the vebicle will be transfered to the hub through the studs, causing eventual failure of the studs.
Great video,Austin. How can we reach out to you if we wanna explore a collaboration with you?❤
looks from here like those r hubcentric spacers👍
Get ARP studs
@10:50 pure honesty right there
Got a big job coming up 😮😮. If you want to come an be apart of it let me know.
Is that a Ford Ranger
Remember where you got that lift put on O H I O
I do! What’s up Mike! How you been?!
Doing ok , how bout your self ? Your really making good content scenes last time seen ya out on the line
You better get a jack stand under that truck Sun
Hey Austin thanks for the thumbs up on my comment from your video short that I commented on the other day I just wanted to let you know that I did finish my video and I uploaded it to TH-cam so if you want to watch it and check it out yourself and by all means please do so since it's your video that inspired me to build what I built the title of my video is " Another way to get comfortable with your horizontal pipe welding" anyhow what I built helps a person to stay off of their pipe completely while staying comfortable doing the weld without burning their arms or having to deal with the heat from resting their hands on the pipe they are welding. Anyways I hope you enjoy the video thanks again for putting your video short out there !
I hate working on my vehicles because as you say, I'm no mechanic. I had to replace a stud once and rather than beat on that thin hub section, use a nut to draw the splines of the stud in.
Best regards from Santiago of Chile, SouthAmerica!!...
I used to lift stuff as a younger guy but these days I run it from the factory if I need more then a stock truck I don’t go there with it is my opinion
Pretty sure those 4th gens had a recall on those studs anyhow heard of a lot of people having trouble with them
The only part of the week I look forward to
ขอบคุณสิ่งที่หน้ารู้ครับ🌏🤝🇹🇭🛠️🚜🫖☕