I have watched Shannon for about 10 years now, and I like his measured pace. He doesn't go too fast, and he explains details in a careful way. It really has helped me do things I wouldn't have done otherwise.
Doing a roof repair today up against a gable. This is exactly what I needed to know on step flashing. Thank you very much for taking to the time to pass along some tips of your trade. This helps me tremendously today!!!!
As a homeowner who is only somewhat handy, I love your videos. I hope you keep posting quality stuff. It helps out guys like me who just need a little bit of instruction to get things done.
Probably because we take pride in doing things right. His video randomly poped up and I commented how he nailed in the water way on another video. Nobody’s hating if anything I’m telling him how to properly do something he’s claiming he knows how to do
thanks for the video. one suggestion; there should be a strip of building wrap/paper under the wall and step flashing protecting the sheathing from condensation behind the metal. The above building wrap then laps over the flashing as mentioned.
You have been a really good person with all of us sharing what you know explaining in a manner that everybody can do it, thank you very much from my heart,I been doing things only because what I been learning from you GOD be with you always.
Thank you so much for making these videos.. I'm always needed to do something around my house . When I'm lost or confused to what ever the situation or project. I'll find one of your videos and get back on track... Again Thank you!!😊😊
A few issues to point out Shannon: 1. Never metal to bare wood. Always put in a vapour barrier on the wall before the metal is installed. Avoids sweating 2. Nail the steps to the roof top outside corner. Nailing into the wall could cause buckling as the roof and wall move differntly in warm and cold weather. Also gives you the possibility of making step repairs in the future as the nails are accessible and not hidden behind the siding. 3. Leave a 1/2' to 3/4" gap ( I use 1/2" gap ) between the shingle and previous step ( channel ) to allow water to flow though and prevent blockage from needles or debris 4. The bottom wall flashing ( not the step ) should wrap around the wall and it's bottom leg should extend out under the step above it . I just remember metal should seam up to and overlap metal 5. The very bottom step flashing should extend out at least four inches past the bottom. You might need to use 2 steps to make this work I think what you've suggested would work, but there could be future problems. I'm a roofer here in Vancouver. Great work on all of these roofing videos.
Thanks for the tips" coffee troll ". I have one question ,when you say vapour barrier do you mean a membrane material or even a strip of house wrap? I would assume so as vapour barrier would not be on the exterior.
Just a point on your second issue about nailing to roof instead of wall. Great in theory, I learned this also but not realistic simply because when you nail the j-trim on the wall to catch the bottom edge of siding there will be plenty of nails through the step flashing and into the wall. I usually use a self sealing membrabe on the wood first before the step flashing goes against it.
WE INSTALL THE J-MLDG. but only with one nail at the far top left or top right end of the channel depending on what side you're going up the roof. By doing this, only one nail is going through the step flashing eliminating possible leaks from nailing down low into the J-mldg. slots. When the siding is installed into the J- mldg. it actually holds the J in place against the wall. You can also run a bead of compound at the base of the J as an extra precaution. We've been doing this for years, never had a call back..........We also install the ice-water shield where needed
Thank you for taking the time to post this video! It was very helpful. I'm confident this is the source of a persistent leak on my roof where it meets the chimney.
the gaf videos recommends to nail to roof only , never to the wall. and I think it makes sense. flashing is a piece of roof( it gets glued by shingle too) system and should remain with roof body, while the walls/roof junction moves.
Always easy to do proper flashing on new construction, problem is most of us are reshingling a house, and in my case, there’s a layer of 1” insulation, strapping and siding already over the sheathing.
After we moved into our house a couple years ago that we had a roof leak and what happened was whoever did the roof did not put flashing up at all....very frustrating to deal with.
Thanks for your video. I like your videos all the time and I'm at home inspector. I don't think so, We can put a nail on the surface level of the step flashing And you have to put the building wrap under the roof covering materials. This is a defective job
I appreciate your caveat and will think on it. Would you, spot glue it or caulk it to hold it in place until the shingles' tar, locks it down? Certainly a nail through the flashing is the last resort.
What if the roof is already done and you need to put flashing on a roof window. Will contact cement or a caulk suffice? What is the best option? I’d rather not nail but if I have to I’m thinking only the upright portion of the flashing.
So why step flash when you could run the head wall as one piece Also you didn't leave a water channel like half inch gap to give the water space to get off the roof instead of under the shingles also roofing cement last forever if it never sees the sun
Prior to this video (pretty basic stuff) gents, remember to run your underlay up the 90s. I prefer to run min an inch or so higher than the height of the step flash, this gives that nail a second job, additionally securing the underlayment. Wrapped outside corners, always the way to go.
Really like your vids man. I have a passion for carpentry and do quite a bit of it. New home construction, reno's, roofing, etc. Alway's looking for little neat tricks and new way's of doing things as long as it's great quality work and over and beyond min.code req. This is another great vid. but I would go a step farther and run self sealing membrane up the wall first I alway's hide my step flashing and try to stay away from the corner when nailing. I also rap my corner's and tar the join.
My house made in 1973 with aluminum siding would be very difficult to do flashing the way your saying. You dont just remove the bottom levels of aluminum siding, they do not come apart like that without ruining them, they would be bent. I am going to reroof as it was previously done by roofers, angle flashing slips up under the existing siding with no J channel and is left loose on the wall, not nailed. It is still nailed thru the shingles. On a wall with a slope, siding is loose along the edge and has room to slip up between siding and the wall. I have repaired an upper story corner of the house above the large 24" wide overhanging soffit on a sidewall. I removed the siding and used 1/2" plywood. I used Protec 200 from the small roof section going across that soffit roof and up the wall 2 feet. Then used a drape of Protec 200 to go down the wall overlapping the underlayment that came up from the roof. So in the corner where wall meets roof is solid fabric underlayment. I am going to flash with 7" by 8" pieces cut from a 14" by 50 foot trim coil. It is better than what was there, no underlayment wrapping, and angle flashing was 2" legs and 6.5" length and lousy exterior broken apart sheet rock sheathing.
Good video once again. Question: If you were doing a new construction home that had no siding or if you had removed the siding, would it be a good idea to run the roofing paper up the wall about a foot just for added protection in addition to the step flashing?
I like to put a dab of solar seal under the shingle and flash card! I use one or two nails as far from the wall as possible and squeeze a little muskrat oil for extra protection!
So many negative comments. A lot of people don't like the way you're doing it Shannon. I'm no roofer, I have no opinion on the matter. Are there other ways of doing step flashing? There must be. I'd like to see a follow up video showing some alternative methods. Great content in all you vids so far, keep up the good work.
Some guys will run a membrane product across the roof and up the wall 12 " or so before shingles and some guys don't like the step flashing to show under the bottom edges of shingles.
I run my roof to wall past the corner fold it back, run the first step past the corner and put a dab of poly in the lower corner and fold it over again and nail the top corner. 60% of the time it works every time.
The step flashing helps direct any water that gets under the shingles back out on top of the next row right away a long 1 piece length has the water flowing down it a long ways and more chance that that water will creep sideways and off of the flashing on to the roof sheathing before it ever gets to the bottom of its length.. This make it less likely that you will get significant damage .
Everything I've read is that step flashing should be nailed to the roof like a normal shingle, not to the wall (read that it can buckle). Most skylight manufacturers recommend roofing tar with each course as well. Why do you recommend nailing to the wall? Cheers... you have great videos.
@@roofmaster4403 won't the flashing get nailed through the shingle to the roof, as well as through the siding to the wall, both, even if you only nail it one of them during installation??
HI, I am trying to estimate how many pieces of step flashing per linear foot or per shingle. I know this may depend on actual width of flashing. Though most pre-made step flashing appears to be 5 x 7" which doesn't provide much rise against wall behind siding material. Also I see some allow more overlap of step flashing across the top of the shingle and prior to the next end piece of shingle is installed. Your input is appreciated.
I kick the roof-to-wall past the corner a few inches then fold the side. Trace the angle on the step and cut it off even but leave a little kick out on the bottom to shed water. You can put a little goop in the very inside corner. I don't leave exposed flashing because it looks ugly. Don't nail the step too close to the wall because it may leak and maybe leave a 1/8” or 1/4" gap for water to flow on the path of least resistance
Awesome video. You do a simple yet great way of explaining the roofing process. You dont talk fancy. Thank you. Now I have a question, What if the siding is pre-existing stucco? How do you install the flashing then? Especially when the original roofer never installed it? Please help.
Thank you for the video. It's very good. One question, I'm attaching a patio roof around my house, and my wall siding is brick tiles. I can't remove to place the flashing under it. So, how should I put the flashing on it? It's a hip roof patio cover.
With a long single piece the moisture that gets by the shingle to the metal just follows it a long ways down the roof and sometimes just rolls off under the shingles to the roof decking. The steps allow moisture to only travel a short distance and its directed right out onto of the shingles again.
There would be a long flashing (not small step flashing) that goes up the wall under the exterior finish and comes out across the top of the metal roof rib and has a bend /kick down to the low part of the panel profiles
Do you have a video on how to flash an inside corner? I have an inside corner where my chimney meets the slope of the roof and back side of chimney is attached to gable end of roof.
I have a porch with a flattened peak with two slopes. So basically I’ll need to transition a long piece of flashing into the step flashing. Is that doable?
Thank you. QUESTION: do you use black caulk where the roof and the siding meet? If so, how much do you use? I was told by my roofer that using black caulk would cause other leaks and the water would go to other places.
Flashing on face of dormer should wrap around corner and 1st piece of step flashing should wrap around front. Do not strip siding unless necessary. Inflated labor cost for homeowner. Dont leave flashing exposed. Nail Flashing through roof( always a chance shingle could lift because of expansion/ contraction). Ice and water barrier under all flashings. Just some tips from guy with 45yrs experience and counting
This sure showed me how bad the roofer performed that we had. He did everything wrong around the dormer, starting with not putting down step flashing or any flashing at all. What a nightmare our roof replacement has been.
He probably just reused the old flashings and did it the right way by not having them show under the shingles like in the video... If there's not steps up a whole dormer your drywall would've caved in after the first few rains.
first off run strips of ice and water on roof up wall with new construction, never have step flashing showing at bottom of shingle and no nailing to wall
I have seen some roofers use some ice and water shield folded half on the roof and half on the sidewall and tar paper and shingles and flashing. Is that too much?
But! What about the sealing of the flashing at bottom that goes round corner to vertical wall? Surely that will leak? Help! Im a builder, can to the basics but about to do my shed roof....but what about the first stel and around the conrner???
Just wondering, I have to do step flashing against a wood sided wall. How do I go about doing that since there's no J channel to go underneath? Do I cut into the wall?
![How To Replace One Shingle [3-tab style]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/V48u9_tZepc/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To Replace One Shingle [3-tab style]](/img/tr.png)
I have watched Shannon for about 10 years now, and I like his measured pace. He doesn't go too fast, and he explains details in a careful way. It really has helped me do things I wouldn't have done otherwise.
Doing a roof repair today up against a gable. This is exactly what I needed to know on step flashing. Thank you very much for taking to the time to pass along some tips of your trade. This helps me tremendously today!!!!
The way he did it it's wrong 🤣🤣🤣
As a homeowner who is only somewhat handy, I love your videos. I hope you keep posting quality stuff. It helps out guys like me who just need a little bit of instruction to get things done.
Amen bud
Thanks , we appreciate the feed back!
"Tru dat", said another homeowner.
Not sure why so many pro roofers are watching your videos, but you have helped me out tremendously. Thanks for all your efforts. Strong work!!!!
Right? There are always haters! LOL Thanks for watching
cause pro roofers like to watch pro roofers!
Probably because we take pride in doing things right. His video randomly poped up and I commented how he nailed in the water way on another video. Nobody’s hating if anything I’m telling him how to properly do something he’s claiming he knows how to do
@@TysonD916 If he asks for your opinion okay, but...I enjoyed. it and will be using it soon. Thank you
@@KenPrice-vj6ih if your into doing things the wrong way and putting a house at risk for interior damage I say go for it lol
thanks for the video. one suggestion; there should be a strip of building wrap/paper under the wall and step flashing protecting the sheathing from condensation behind the metal. The above building wrap then laps over the flashing as mentioned.
You have been a really good person with all of us sharing what you know explaining in a manner that everybody can do it, thank you very much from my heart,I been doing things only because what I been learning from you GOD be with you always.
Thank you so much for making these videos.. I'm always needed to do something around my house . When I'm lost or confused to what ever the situation or project. I'll find one of your videos and get back on track... Again Thank you!!😊😊
A few issues to point out Shannon:
1. Never metal to bare wood. Always put in a vapour barrier on the wall before the metal is installed. Avoids sweating
2. Nail the steps to the roof top outside corner. Nailing into the wall could cause buckling as the roof and wall move differntly in warm and cold weather. Also gives you the possibility of making step repairs in the future as the nails are accessible and not hidden behind the siding.
3. Leave a 1/2' to 3/4" gap ( I use 1/2" gap ) between the shingle and previous step ( channel ) to allow water to flow though and prevent blockage from needles or debris
4. The bottom wall flashing ( not the step ) should wrap around the wall and it's bottom leg should extend out under the step above it . I just remember metal should seam up to and overlap metal
5. The very bottom step flashing should extend out at least four inches past the bottom. You might need to use 2 steps to make this work
I think what you've suggested would work, but there could be future problems. I'm a roofer here in Vancouver.
Great work on all of these roofing videos.
Thanks for the tips" coffee troll ". I have one question ,when you say vapour barrier do you mean a membrane material or even a strip of house wrap? I would assume so as vapour barrier would not be on the exterior.
A strip of house wrap would be great. I turn my underlayment 4" up the wall to get the same effect as suggested by seephor in the comments below.
Just a point on your second issue about nailing to roof instead of wall. Great in theory, I learned this also but not realistic simply because when you nail the j-trim on the wall to catch the bottom edge of siding there will be plenty of nails through the step flashing and into the wall. I usually use a self sealing membrabe on the wood first before the step flashing goes against it.
WE INSTALL THE J-MLDG. but only with one nail at the far top left or top right end of the channel depending on what side you're going up the roof. By doing this, only one nail is going through the step flashing eliminating possible leaks from nailing down low into the J-mldg. slots. When the siding is installed into the J- mldg. it actually holds the J in place against the wall. You can also run a bead of compound at the base of the J as an extra precaution. We've been doing this for years, never had a call back..........We also install the ice-water shield where needed
Love hearing about thoughtful methods like yours ozzie. Thanks for the tip.
Thank you for taking the time to post this video! It was very helpful. I'm confident this is the source of a persistent leak on my roof where it meets the chimney.
Dude, did STEP FLASHING, solve the problem around the chimney?
the gaf videos recommends to nail to roof only , never to the wall. and I think it makes sense. flashing is a piece of roof( it gets glued by shingle too) system and should remain with roof body, while the walls/roof junction moves.
Wrong
Love all your videos bud. Dont know why you're absolutely cursed with trolls but us normal folks appreciate you.
Always easy to do proper flashing on new construction, problem is most of us are reshingling a house, and in my case, there’s a layer of 1” insulation, strapping and siding already over the sheathing.
They make a corner flashing that you can use on outside corners like this. You can form it to the corner and it is the best $1.50 you will ever spend!
Or use lead
Thanks for using the model. Makes it easier to understand👍
how do you finish corner, siding and trim?
there's a gap between 2 flashing top/bottom.
here's a example, how not do it.
qmax1969 Hi Max can you plz show in a small video how to do the right way and maybe tell us what avoid or not to do. Thanks
Yes qmax1969 the roof to wall flashing is too short needs to be even with the step flashing
Y que se enpaten las ranuras biejo menso
@@maurogonzales1349 viejo
@@MAZINKAIFER toy apunto de echar palo y no se a parado bien no quieres benir y con unas chupaditas la dejes correctamente parada
Easy to understand instructions. Thanks.
Thank you! Your videos are always so well done and helpful.
After we moved into our house a couple years ago that we had a roof leak and what happened was whoever did the roof did not put flashing up at all....very frustrating to deal with.
Great info, I have to do this. Why would you leave the bottom longer than the shingle so you see the edge, wouldn't it be nicer to hide the tin?
it lets the water take that longer edge and run off better, its there for a purpose
Love your videos. I like how detailed you are on all your steps.
Thanks for your video. I like your videos all the time and I'm at home inspector. I don't think so, We can put a nail on the surface level of the step flashing
And you have to put the building wrap under the roof covering materials. This is a defective job
I have to disagree, you should never nail thru the step flashing. You can adjust your shingle nails over to keep from nailing in the flashing.
I appreciate your caveat and will think on it.
Would you, spot glue it or caulk it to hold it in place until the shingles' tar, locks it down?
Certainly a nail through the flashing is the last resort.
What if the roof is already done and you need to put flashing on a roof window. Will contact cement or a caulk suffice? What is the best option? I’d rather not nail but if I have to I’m thinking only the upright portion of the flashing.
So why step flash when you could run the head wall as one piece Also you didn't leave a water channel like half inch gap to give the water space to get off the roof instead of under the shingles also roofing cement last forever if it never sees the sun
Yeah no seen so many roofs with the step flashing causing the shingles to lift up and it looks horrible all cause they weren’t nailed.
Yes avoid nailing the step flashing on the roof surface, nail the vertical part of flashing along wall only
Thank you. It's always informative.
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
your videos are great and thorough, nevermind the know it alls on here
Thanks for showing step splashing. That is the hard part of roofing
your welcome
Prior to this video (pretty basic stuff) gents, remember to run your underlay up the 90s. I prefer to run min an inch or so higher than the height of the step flash, this gives that nail a second job, additionally securing the underlayment. Wrapped outside corners, always the way to go.
Thanks man. Get to work everyone.
Really like your vids man. I have a passion for carpentry and do quite a bit of it. New home construction, reno's, roofing, etc. Alway's looking for little neat tricks and new way's of doing things as long as it's great quality work and over and beyond min.code req. This is another great vid. but I would go a step farther and run self sealing membrane up the wall first I alway's hide my step flashing and try to stay away from the corner when nailing. I also rap my corner's and tar the join.
Good tips BIGAL
Awesome video thanks man!👍🏼
So helpful Shannon! Thx
Super helpful video!
Great explanation!
My house made in 1973 with aluminum siding would be very difficult to do flashing the way your saying. You dont just remove the bottom levels of aluminum siding, they do not come apart like that without ruining them, they would be bent. I am going to reroof as it was previously done by roofers, angle flashing slips up under the existing siding with no J channel and is left loose on the wall, not nailed. It is still nailed thru the shingles.
On a wall with a slope, siding is loose along the edge and has room to slip up between siding and the wall. I have repaired an upper story corner of the house above the large 24" wide overhanging soffit on a sidewall. I removed the siding and used 1/2" plywood. I used Protec 200 from the small roof section going across that soffit roof and up the wall 2 feet. Then used a drape of Protec 200 to go down the wall overlapping the underlayment that came up from the roof. So in the corner where wall meets roof is solid fabric underlayment. I am going to flash with 7" by 8" pieces cut from a 14" by 50 foot trim coil. It is better than what was there, no underlayment wrapping, and angle flashing was 2" legs and 6.5" length and lousy exterior broken apart sheet rock sheathing.
Which flashing hold up better? Aluminum or galvanized?
Why doesn't your front pan extend onto the roof nor wrap around? Thanks 🙈🙉 🙊
Very nice demo.
Thank you
Good video once again. Question: If you were doing a new construction home that had no siding or if you had removed the siding, would it be a good idea to run the roofing paper up the wall about a foot just for added protection in addition to the step flashing?
would not hurt anything doing that.
I like to put a dab of solar seal under the shingle and flash card! I use one or two nails as far from the wall as possible and squeeze a little muskrat oil for extra protection!
So many negative comments. A lot of people don't like the way you're doing it Shannon. I'm no roofer, I have no opinion on the matter. Are there other ways of doing step flashing? There must be. I'd like to see a follow up video showing some alternative methods. Great content in all you vids so far, keep up the good work.
Some guys will run a membrane product across the roof and up the wall 12 " or so before shingles and some guys don't like the step flashing to show under the bottom edges of shingles.
Great video thanks for sharing 👍
I run my roof to wall past the corner fold it back, run the first step past the corner and put a dab of poly in the lower corner and fold it over again and nail the top corner. 60% of the time it works every time.
Great video, thanks!!!
Thanks for the education. What is the advantage of step flashing versus one long solid piece of L-flashing?
The step flashing helps direct any water that gets under the shingles back out on top of the next row right away a long 1 piece length has the water flowing down it a long ways and more chance that that water will creep sideways and off of the flashing on to the roof sheathing before it ever gets to the bottom of its length.. This make it less likely that you will get significant damage .
Everything I've read is that step flashing should be nailed to the roof like a normal shingle, not to the wall (read that it can buckle). Most skylight manufacturers recommend roofing tar with each course as well.
Why do you recommend nailing to the wall?
Cheers... you have great videos.
jim77004 you can fasten Flashings to either the wall or roof deck BUT not both, they will buckle
@@roofmaster4403 won't the flashing get nailed through the shingle to the roof, as well as through the siding to the wall, both, even if you only nail it one of them during installation??
@@alexgrubb6640 a couple nails here and there thru the step flashings when you're fastening the j-channel is no big deal...
"Graage roof" XD awesome accent buddy!
Great job
HI, I am trying to estimate how many pieces of step flashing per linear foot or per shingle. I know this may depend on actual width of flashing. Though most pre-made step flashing appears to be 5 x 7" which doesn't provide much rise against wall behind siding material. Also I see some allow more overlap of step flashing across the top of the shingle and prior to the next end piece of shingle is installed. Your input is appreciated.
2 pieces of 8×8 flash cards would be needed for every linear foot of shingles
I kick the roof-to-wall past the corner a few inches then fold the side. Trace the angle on the step and cut it off even but leave a little kick out on the bottom to shed water. You can put a little goop in the very inside corner. I don't leave exposed flashing because it looks ugly. Don't nail the step too close to the wall because it may leak and maybe leave a 1/8” or 1/4" gap for water to flow on the path of least resistance
I want to thank u for giving me a way to learn. i stumbled across ur videos and damn glad of it. Keep up the good work.
David Taylor do not follow this guys work it is really really really bad
Bad. Job.
Great video thanks for sharing
Excellent job thank you for the info.
Wtf That's a horrible job 🤦♂️🤦♂️
What type of adhesive will work if you prefer not to nail the flashing? Contact cement or caulk? Will it hold the flashing in place?
adhesive won't do the job on its own.
Very useful thank you Shannon.
Thank you Timothy
Awesome video. You do a simple yet great way of explaining the roofing process. You dont talk fancy. Thank you.
Now I have a question, What if the siding is pre-existing stucco? How do you install the flashing then? Especially when the original roofer never installed it? Please help.
Ahh thats a whole other beast. Please come to my forum with your question and I can try to explain it. www.house-improvements.com/forums/
Thank you for the video. It's very good.
One question, I'm attaching a patio roof around my house, and my wall siding is brick tiles. I can't remove to place the flashing under it. So, how should I put the flashing on it?
It's a hip roof patio cover.
Good job!
Awesome video. Why is step flashing better than a long solid piece of flashing?
With a long single piece the moisture that gets by the shingle to the metal just follows it a long ways down the roof and sometimes just rolls off under the shingles to the roof decking. The steps allow moisture to only travel a short distance and its directed right out onto of the shingles again.
@@HouseImprovements 👍🏼🇺🇸
Dont you need a 1/4 inch space between the shingles and the wall for expansion ?
you got a hundred guys saying your method is wrong, but not ONE of them puts up a video to show what they are talking about. All the haters suck.
Excellent video. Thanks
Great video! Exactly what I needed to know for my job coming up! I feel more confident now! 🙏🏼 But whats a J chanel? 😅
Is the first piece of flashing on bottom one piece of flashing?
yes
Nice video, will help us a lot. Thank you so much!
Great infor. Thank you.
You still have a leak area where the bottom flashing meets the step flashing. That one way fold wont work
100% I tell people this all the time gotta use lead!!!!
Love this channel
THANKS WE KINDA LIKE IT ALSO!
What do you do in the case of a metal roof Instead of a shingle roof?
There would be a long flashing (not small step flashing) that goes up the wall under the exterior finish and comes out across the top of the metal roof rib and has a bend /kick down to the low part of the panel profiles
Why do you leave some of the metal step flashing showing instead of hiding it under the shingle?
You dont need to that is just how I was shown to do it.
Do you have a video on how to flash an inside corner? I have an inside corner where my chimney meets the slope of the roof and back side of chimney is attached to gable end of roof.
Can you do a vid on shingling a valley and installing a “w” valley? Thanks
Should there be ice and snow up sidewall?
Would not hurt anything
Is that step flashing unequal length legs? Is it ok to have a 4" leg on the wall and a 3" leg on the shingle with an 8" flashing length"
I have a porch with a flattened peak with two slopes. So basically I’ll need to transition a long piece of flashing into the step flashing. Is that doable?
Great video, thank you!
Thanks Raul
Thank you. QUESTION: do you use black caulk where the roof and the siding meet? If so, how much do you use? I was told by my roofer that using black caulk would cause other leaks and the water would go to other places.
No ,that is what the step flashing is there for ,to divert the water back out and down the roof
Thanks. How can I tell if there is step flashing? I've looked and am not able to decipher it.
Would it be okay to run a bead along the side of the shingle to ensure water doesn't somehow get underneath?
The whole idea of the step flashing is to direct it back out onto of the shingle below if it does.
If you are putting flashing against brick what fastener would you use ? Tapcon screws?
that would work
Makes perfect sense.
Flashing on face of dormer should wrap around corner and 1st piece of step flashing should wrap around front. Do not strip siding unless necessary. Inflated labor cost for homeowner. Dont leave flashing exposed. Nail Flashing through roof( always a chance shingle could lift because of expansion/ contraction). Ice and water barrier under all flashings. Just some tips from guy with 45yrs experience and counting
So does the house wrap go over or under the step flashing?
over.
I need to roof against a brick wall. Do you recommend using tapcons to secure the step flashing to the brick wall or something else?
Muchas gracias, de verdad aprecio tu tiempo, paciencia y ganas de enseñarnos, muy buenos detalles.
Thanks so much Brother
Esta mal compa el metal horizontal tiene que pasar la esquina de la pared
Put ur nail at the top of you wall side of step flashing that way your next step covers the nail so they are covers the whole way up
This sure showed me how bad the roofer performed that we had. He did everything wrong around the dormer, starting with not putting down step flashing or any flashing at all. What a nightmare our roof replacement has been.
oh , sorry to hear that
He probably just reused the old flashings and did it the right way by not having them show under the shingles like in the video... If there's not steps up a whole dormer your drywall would've caved in after the first few rains.
first off run strips of ice and water on roof up wall with new construction, never have step flashing showing at bottom of shingle and no nailing to wall
yep
I have seen some roofers use some ice and water shield folded half on the roof and half on the sidewall and tar paper and shingles and flashing. Is that too much?
Nope, that is a god idea
But! What about the sealing of the flashing at bottom that goes round corner to vertical wall? Surely that will leak? Help! Im a builder, can to the basics but about to do my shed roof....but what about the first stel and around the conrner???
Can you bent the step flashing?
What is you have metal roofing on existing roof.
What if the wall is stucco! Can you nail or do you screw?
Why do you nail the step flashing so close to the wall? Wouldn't the water most likely be right along that edge?
Whats the difference between step flashing and L flashing?
Is 2 x 4 x8 flashing good size for step?
thanx for the tips!
Just wondering, I have to do step flashing against a wood sided wall. How do I go about doing that since there's no J channel to go underneath? Do I cut into the wall?
Is it a vinyl siding
But what do you do if you have stucco on the wall already and flashing underneath it? I have a leak in a similar area on my roof.
So what do you do if the step flashing butts onto a brick wall?
Im building a addition room on top of my house , I think it would be little difficult for me to flashing to existing roof.
Housewrap almost always goes on before the roofers get there. Also, you should run I&W up sidewalls if you can
What is i and w?
I&w is ice and wind barrier. It has a self adhesive side on the back
@@danmailman18 I think you mean ice and water shield. A waterproof self adhesive membrane.
Bituthene