6 months later and i waching this video again, Steve you are so peacefully in this video and clear about mold. Congratulations you dont know how many peaple you helps. Concrobium resolve the problems in the place i live before i move. And now in my parents house they have the same problems with mold and concrobium was the key to solution the problems. THANKS SO MUCH
Looks good. should mention getting the relative humidity below 50% with a dehumidifier to stop new growth while doing the job. Some people missed a caveat or 2 at the start. his reference to doing a full assessment of all visible mould, and to not tackle a job bigger "than a sheet of plywood". And the repeated comment "kill mycotoxin" is impossible, you can neutralize a toxin by breaking the molecular bond of a hazardous compound, is what this product and some others do. almost missed this one, rent a cold ULV fogger to get areas out of reach like behind rafters etc.
There is a big flaw with this video. I know, because I had followed similar steps which led to my daughter getting super sick and mold toxic and caused me to have to throw away almost everything in my home. I am not trying to just be contrary here, I would really like people to not make a home-ruining, life-destroying mistake. I will review the seven 'steps' from the video below: 1. Assess (good) 2. Eliminate Moisture Source (good) 3. Make removal decisions (questionable). Here is why. When you start working with moldy materials, you have to build a containment around the area with 6 mil plastic. I put a zipper in the plastic that I bought from Amazon. I used a staple gun to staple the plastic up on nearby drywall to contain the area. The staples pull right out, and you will be repainting the surface anyway, and this will fill the holes. It is not necessary to have a complete seal because you will have to have negative air pressure in the area. In the containment area, you need to install a blower that will create negative air pressure (suck air out) in the area and blow the air from inside your containment area to the outside of your home. I bought a blower from Harbor Freight for about $70 and an 8 inch blower hose to vent to outside. I had to make a transition piece out of a cut 5 gallon bucket and duct tape to attach the hose to the blower. You MUST have containment before you start any removal. Disturbing the mold makes it pour out mold spores and mycotoxins. The more of this that takes place in a contained, negative air pressure environment, the better. Otherwise, the mold will spread to your home. Wear a tyvek suit when in the containment area. Dispose of suit every time you enter to avoid cross contamination. Also, realize that a HEPA filter or mask that you wear is not going to stop the mycotoxins, only mold spores. A hepa filter filters down to 3 microns. The cross section of a human hair is about 50 microns. The hepa filter will take out mold spores, but the mycotoxins are as small as one tenth of one micron, and will go right through almost any filter. It is the mold mycotoxins that will make you sick. Chemical weapons are made from mold mycotoxins. They are the same mycotoxins that you have in your moldy home, only the concentration is higher. Everything in your containment area will need to be cleaned. Walls, ceilings, floors, inside and outside cabinetry, etc. You need to use a cleaner that will both kill spores and mycotoxins on every bit of your containment area. I also bought 3 Air Doctor filters and have them running non stop in my home as I am cleaning it. This filter filters down to .003 (three one thousandths) of a micron, which can eliminate spores and mycotoxins. So the reason that step three is questionable, is that you must have containment before removal of any materials. Your containment must have an exit to outside the home. Put moldy materials right into a heavy, thick garbage bag and take out of the house right away. The mycotoxins will go right through the garbage bag. The ideal would be to have the bag in a metal garbage can, remove the entire can. Dispose of the bag, clean the can, bring the can back in to the containment area with a new bag. 4. Dry the area (WARNING LIGHT FLASHING). Do not dry the area if there is any mold present. I repeat, do not dry the area if there is any mold present, especially with a fan. I just about had a heart attack. My drip pan in my refrigerator leaked. Chaetomiumspp grew under the fridge in the dust (since I didn't clean under it adequately) so guess what happened. It would get wet, then dry from the fan running at the bottom of the fridge. Is blew the mold spores and mycotoxins in to the air, which were sucked into the HVAC system and spread throughout the house. This made my daugther extremely ill. Several mold mycotoxins are neurotoxins. My daughter has spent the last five months with brain fog (inability to think correctly) and extreme nerve pain which causes her to scream and cry out pretty much all day long. We got her out of the house as soon as we realized the issue. I know for a fact, that the blower on the fridge spread the mold spores that made her sick. Mycotoxins go right through building materials and they get into your body on the cellular level. Don't dry mold with a fan. Even if you don't see mold, it can still be there. Clean the area first before drying. 5. Kill mold and discourage regrowth. (THIS STEP SHOULD TAKE PLACE BEFORE STEP 4). You need to kill the mold and the mold spores, but make sure that your product also kills and eliminates the mycotoxins. There are products that do this, and I have not idea if Concrobium kills mycotoxins. 6. Remove Mold Stains (good) 7. Prevent mold regrowth. (good if you eliminate mycotoxins) Remember, they are invisible, colorless, and oderless. If you skimmed my reply, just go back and read #4. A good friend did this in the order listed in the video as well, and tried to dry the moldy area before cleaning. Ruined everything in the house. It all smells, and two of the family members became mold toxic and now get sick if around anything moldy. My daughter as well has violent reactions if she even sits nearby someone who lives in a musty house. Please be safe. My experience has been borderline life destroying. I would just like to prevent anyone else from going through the same hellish experience.
Kevin marks are you speaking as a professional or just a concerned parent because that is what it seems and are using your personal experience with or should say combined with your newfound experience and I mean this with no disdain or slander and speaking as a professional who has been trained in mold removal and I'm currently doing a job now on Long Island New York but some of the things you are saying are half-truth and could be looked at as fact. And although these e the experiences you have some of the advice you're giving is good some of it is very anti truth I'm sure your motives are pure what to name a couple so no one is misled you would never keep anything wet yes this guy is a total ass clown just trying to sell some cheap Home Depot product but at the same time some of the stuff he is saying is true but again getting back to the facts you do not let stuff whether it's part of the home more property inside the home stay wet at all....period. In fact the first thing you do is stop the moisture moisture is the breeding ground for all three facets of the problem not just mold or mildew but the microbial which is the hardest to kill and remove so that means just give you all tips from a professional what this guy is telling you about bleach is false. Also what the guy is saying about not using it on a non porous surface to a porous service is worse is also untrue and also highlights the need for it to dry out think of a porous surface which would be a piece of 2 x 4 saying a basement subfloor where these problems typically take place think of that like a sponge a wet sponge will not take a detergent a dry one well pretty simple now it's not an everyday household bleach that you want to use you want to use a couple different mixtures one that sodium hydrochloride it's just not going to do it you need one with a sodium hydroxide base . then you commonly mix that with a accelerator there's a product called gel Max I like to use to mix it with and then common water again to make it penetrate into all services nothing will be old-fashioned water mixed with a bleach with a sodium hydroxide base on a dry surface the truth is the humidity does have to stay down and things do need to be dry the other truth is some people are hyper allergic or allergenic some people are just not that sensitive but there's cases of people doing things the wrong way and people get sick and even die from mold and mildew poisoning so this is serious stuff that is why mold and mildew removal companies make quite a bit of money almost always covered by insurance. what the microbl should be used for and only used for is once the mold and mildew has been killed I must give this fact first if mold and mildew has been present on any kind of couch pillow etc for a longer than 3/4 days throw it out cuz you will not bring it back there will always be spores present so time is always of the essence but the truth is again with the micromole product here the only thing it's really worth is the barrier it can reduce for letting anything return once the cleaning and removal is correctly done good night sir
@Jon micheal oh, Jon, my dear ... if it was you and your life being nearly ruined like myself and the poster here, you would feel the need for the information to be accurate.
Thanks Steve that was very helpful. I live in Hawaii on the wetter side of the Island and we never have winter here. I was wondering what indoor relative humidity levels would suggest to prevent mold growth in moist 70 degree climate? Thank you!
Try mixing oil of oregano or tea tree oil with some water or some alcohol and use it as room spray above everywhere and on things and in places like closets or in your basement. Or on your clothes when you wash them. It actually does work. Oregano oil. Tea tree is kind of strong and a lot of people don't like it. But oregano just smells like Italian food. It can go anywhere and if you smell like oregano, it's alright for other people
Can concrobium be used inside of AC/HV air handlers on coils and insulation?? Will it hurt metal, aluminum and copper? If it is OK, how should it be used?
Is this toxic harmful to people I need to use my shower and this shower has no window only a ceiling fan. I don’t have much mold only a bit on the bottom grout
I am on board with your statement Mr. Rogers. I am wondering how much remediation I need to do in the crawl space between the 1st and 2nd floor of my house. Prior to Fogging with this product. There is an avenue for airflow between the crawl space and the livable area of my home via the penetrations for the recessed lighting (albeit the annual space is very minimal).
Um. My humidity right now is 82 % and it hasn't rained in several days. Rain forest much ? No wonder everything is.....nevermind. The orchids are blooming (cough-cough-sneeez). Damn mold.
Concorbium, what a joke. I’m surprised that this product is still on the market. What really surprises me is places like Lowe’s still promotes this product. Does not kill mycotoxins. I wouldn’t allow my neighbor to use on his dogs dog house and I don’t even like my neighbor
6 months later and i waching this video again, Steve you are so peacefully in this video and clear about mold. Congratulations you dont know how many peaple you helps. Concrobium resolve the problems in the place i live before i move. And now in my parents house they have the same problems with mold and concrobium was the key to solution the problems. THANKS SO MUCH
but will drying things out first allow spores to freely fly thru the air more so? does it make more sense to treat then dry?
Looks good. should mention getting the relative humidity below 50% with a dehumidifier to stop new growth while doing the job. Some people missed a caveat or 2 at the start. his reference to doing a full assessment of all visible mould, and to not tackle a job bigger "than a sheet of plywood". And the repeated comment "kill mycotoxin" is impossible, you can neutralize a toxin by breaking the molecular bond of a hazardous compound, is what this product and some others do. almost missed this one, rent a cold ULV fogger to get areas out of reach like behind rafters etc.
Best video I've seen.
Great video
There is a big flaw with this video. I know, because I had followed similar steps which led to my daughter getting super sick and mold toxic and caused me to have to throw away almost everything in my home. I am not trying to just be contrary here, I would really like people to not make a home-ruining, life-destroying mistake. I will review the seven 'steps' from the video below:
1. Assess (good)
2. Eliminate Moisture Source (good)
3. Make removal decisions (questionable). Here is why. When you start working with moldy materials, you have to build a containment around the area with 6 mil plastic. I put a zipper in the plastic that I bought from Amazon. I used a staple gun to staple the plastic up on nearby drywall to contain the area. The staples pull right out, and you will be repainting the surface anyway, and this will fill the holes. It is not necessary to have a complete seal because you will have to have negative air pressure in the area. In the containment area, you need to install a blower that will create negative air pressure (suck air out) in the area and blow the air from inside your containment area to the outside of your home. I bought a blower from Harbor Freight for about $70 and an 8 inch blower hose to vent to outside. I had to make a transition piece out of a cut 5 gallon bucket and duct tape to attach the hose to the blower.
You MUST have containment before you start any removal. Disturbing the mold makes it pour out mold spores and mycotoxins. The more of this that takes place in a contained, negative air pressure environment, the better. Otherwise, the mold will spread to your home. Wear a tyvek suit when in the containment area. Dispose of suit every time you enter to avoid cross contamination. Also, realize that a HEPA filter or mask that you wear is not going to stop the mycotoxins, only mold spores. A hepa filter filters down to 3 microns. The cross section of a human hair is about 50 microns. The hepa filter will take out mold spores, but the mycotoxins are as small as one tenth of one micron, and will go right through almost any filter. It is the mold mycotoxins that will make you sick. Chemical weapons are made from mold mycotoxins. They are the same mycotoxins that you have in your moldy home, only the concentration is higher.
Everything in your containment area will need to be cleaned. Walls, ceilings, floors, inside and outside cabinetry, etc. You need to use a cleaner that will both kill spores and mycotoxins on every bit of your containment area.
I also bought 3 Air Doctor filters and have them running non stop in my home as I am cleaning it. This filter filters down to .003 (three one thousandths) of a micron, which can eliminate spores and mycotoxins.
So the reason that step three is questionable, is that you must have containment before removal of any materials. Your containment must have an exit to outside the home. Put moldy materials right into a heavy, thick garbage bag and take out of the house right away. The mycotoxins will go right through the garbage bag. The ideal would be to have the bag in a metal garbage can, remove the entire can. Dispose of the bag, clean the can, bring the can back in to the containment area with a new bag.
4. Dry the area (WARNING LIGHT FLASHING). Do not dry the area if there is any mold present. I repeat, do not dry the area if there is any mold present, especially with a fan. I just about had a heart attack. My drip pan in my refrigerator leaked. Chaetomiumspp grew under the fridge in the dust (since I didn't clean under it adequately) so guess what happened. It would get wet, then dry from the fan running at the bottom of the fridge. Is blew the mold spores and mycotoxins in to the air, which were sucked into the HVAC system and spread throughout the house. This made my daugther extremely ill. Several mold mycotoxins are neurotoxins. My daughter has spent the last five months with brain fog (inability to think correctly) and extreme nerve pain which causes her to scream and cry out pretty much all day long. We got her out of the house as soon as we realized the issue. I know for a fact, that the blower on the fridge spread the mold spores that made her sick. Mycotoxins go right through building materials and they get into your body on the cellular level. Don't dry mold with a fan. Even if you don't see mold, it can still be there. Clean the area first before drying.
5. Kill mold and discourage regrowth. (THIS STEP SHOULD TAKE PLACE BEFORE STEP 4). You need to kill the mold and the mold spores, but make sure that your product also kills and eliminates the mycotoxins. There are products that do this, and I have not idea if Concrobium kills mycotoxins.
6. Remove Mold Stains (good)
7. Prevent mold regrowth. (good if you eliminate mycotoxins) Remember, they are invisible, colorless, and oderless.
If you skimmed my reply, just go back and read #4. A good friend did this in the order listed in the video as well, and tried to dry the moldy area before cleaning. Ruined everything in the house. It all smells, and two of the family members became mold toxic and now get sick if around anything moldy. My daughter as well has violent reactions if she even sits nearby someone who lives in a musty house.
Please be safe. My experience has been borderline life destroying. I would just like to prevent anyone else from going through the same hellish experience.
Kevin marks are you speaking as a professional or just a concerned parent because that is what it seems and are using your personal experience with or should say combined with your newfound experience and I mean this with no disdain or slander and speaking as a professional who has been trained in mold removal and I'm currently doing a job now on Long Island New York but some of the things you are saying are half-truth and could be looked at as fact.
And although these e the experiences you have some of the advice you're giving is good some of it is very anti truth I'm sure your motives are pure what to name a couple so no one is misled you would never keep anything wet yes this guy is a total ass clown just trying to sell some cheap Home Depot product but at the same time some of the stuff he is saying is true but again getting back to the facts you do not let stuff whether it's part of the home more property inside the home stay wet at all....period.
In fact the first thing you do is stop the moisture moisture is the breeding ground for all three facets of the problem not just mold or mildew but the microbial which is the hardest to kill and remove so that means just give you all tips from a professional what this guy is telling you about bleach is false.
Also what the guy is saying about not using it on a non porous surface to a porous service is worse is also untrue and also highlights the need for it to dry out think of a porous surface which would be a piece of 2 x 4 saying a basement subfloor where these problems typically take place think of that like a sponge a wet sponge will not take a detergent a dry one well pretty simple now it's not an everyday household bleach that you want to use you want to use a couple different mixtures one that sodium hydrochloride it's just not going to do it you need one with a sodium hydroxide base . then you commonly mix that with a accelerator there's a product called gel Max I like to use to mix it with and then common water again to make it penetrate into all services nothing will be old-fashioned water mixed with a bleach with a sodium hydroxide base on a dry surface the truth is the humidity does have to stay down and things do need to be dry the other truth is some people are hyper allergic or allergenic some people are just not that sensitive but there's cases of people doing things the wrong way and people get sick and even die from mold and mildew poisoning so this is serious stuff that is why mold and mildew removal companies make quite a bit of money almost always covered by insurance.
what the microbl should be used for and only used for is once the mold and mildew has been killed I must give this fact first if mold and mildew has been present on any kind of couch pillow etc for a longer than 3/4 days throw it out cuz you will not bring it back there will always be spores present so time is always of the essence but the truth is again with the micromole product here the only thing it's really worth is the barrier it can reduce for letting anything return once the cleaning and removal is correctly done good night sir
@Jon micheal oh, Jon, my dear ... if it was you and your life being nearly ruined like myself and the poster here, you would feel the need for the information to be accurate.
You rock!
Appreciate the response!
@@chrisbardsley8611 unfortunately rarely covered by home owners insurance.
what camera is he looking at???
Can I use concrobium disinfectant II to fog sanitize an hvac system from mold spores? Will it be as effective as the “mold control” product?
Thanks !
Thanks Steve that was very helpful. I live in Hawaii on the wetter side of the Island and we never have winter here. I was wondering what indoor relative humidity levels would suggest to prevent mold growth in moist 70 degree climate? Thank you!
Try mixing oil of oregano or tea tree oil with some water or some alcohol and use it as room spray above everywhere and on things and in places like closets or in your basement. Or on your clothes when you wash them. It actually does work. Oregano oil. Tea tree is kind of strong and a lot of people don't like it. But oregano just smells like Italian food. It can go anywhere and if you smell like oregano, it's alright for other people
Can concrobium be used inside of AC/HV air handlers on coils and insulation?? Will it hurt metal, aluminum and copper? If it is OK, how should it be used?
Do NOT do that. You might distribute the bad shit throughout your house.
Will this remove the black mold and mildew from my shower tile grout?
What about the attic? I need to put my fogger in the attic more than 2min is that good? I want to insulate the attic
Is this toxic harmful to people I need to use my shower and this shower has no window only a ceiling fan. I don’t have much mold only a bit on the bottom grout
Only one thing I disagree with, and that is killing mold is not enough. .it needs to be removed ...dead mold can still cause you health problems.
I am on board with your statement Mr. Rogers. I am wondering how much remediation I need to do in the crawl space between the 1st and 2nd floor of my house. Prior to Fogging with this product. There is an avenue for airflow between the crawl space and the livable area of my home via the penetrations for the recessed lighting (albeit the annual space is very minimal).
Check the MSDS of this product. Nothing magic.
Um. My humidity right now is 82 % and it hasn't rained in several days. Rain forest much ? No wonder everything is.....nevermind. The orchids are blooming (cough-cough-sneeez). Damn mold.
2:38
I am getting discouraged. The solution do not work OMG
this stuff does not work!
Concorbium, what a joke. I’m surprised that this product is still on the market. What really surprises me is places like Lowe’s still promotes this product. Does not kill mycotoxins. I wouldn’t allow my neighbor to use on his dogs dog house and I don’t even like my neighbor
Step 8: pull out your wallet and pay us a ton of money for a couple of ounces because we're greedy bastards.