THANX FOR BRINGING THAT ISSUE ABOUT THE SPACER BEING ONLY ONE..IT WAS DRIVING ME CRAZY BECAUSE I THOUGHT THAT THERE WAS SUPPOST TO BE 2 ONE ON EACH SIDE SO I ORDERED ANOTHER ONE AND WHEN I PUT THEM BOTH ON EACH SIDE THE AXLE WOULD NOT GO IN ALL THE WAY IN..BECAUSE IT WAS HITTING ON THE SPACER THAT I PUT IN THERE..SO I CAME TO UTUBE AND SAW YOUR VIDEO..THANX FOR THAT INFO THAT IT ONLY SUPPOST TO HAVE ONE SPACER ON THE RIGHT SIDE..YOU SAVED ME FROM DAMAGING SOMETHING..THANX FOR EXAPLAINING IT IN DETAIL..👍👍
Michael Olson Thanks for watching and the comment! I try to make things easy to understand. It has been too long since my last upload. Gotta get it in gear and get another video up! Haha! Ride safe brother!
Good, simple video. However, I would avoid using an adjustable wrench, they tend to strip bolt heads. A 6pt 22mm socket would be a much better option. As per remounting the wheel, their is a direction arrow on the tire.
of course, alot of people have the same video but miss the part where you hammered out the axel and thats exactly what i needed, its the little things lol. thank you once again.
719Moto Mx Yes it is. As long as your do not interfere with your wheels coming off in any way. I have Venom stands and they have worked very well for me.
I just tried exactly this with a Pitbull front pin stand. The issue is it seems that you need to remove the front fairing to safely use the pin stand, so a stand that lifts by the forks would be easier so you don't have to take the front fairing off to lift the bike.
The reason why you are having to tap it out is that the stand isn't straight thus causing the axle to bind up....should slide in and out super easy when setup correctly
You should use the proper size wrench. I was too lazy to go to the store and buy it lol. I think it is 22mm? I don't think it would differ from the 600 to the 1000. But it could.
So basically it will still come off the same way in video right ...I thought both sides needed loosening for some reason....but looks like once you loosen nut you can push the axle through
@@hoosierdad4 it should come off the same. I don't have any experience with 1000's but I can't see why it would be any different or different enough that it would take additional tools/steps.
Sorry for the delayed reply. Starting at about 10:50 in the video, I begin talking about orientation and knowing which side is which. In your case with powder coating. Depending on your specific bike, you likely need to take off your rotors. If you have the same bike as me, your rotors attach to the hub/wheel bearings. You will need to take those off as well. Those bearings/hubs being left in the rim are what dictates the orientation if I am not mistaken. The bearings/hubs are what matters. Take note in the video, the axel shaft is different diameters on either end. One hub/bearing is larger inside diameter and the other side requires a spacer to fill the gap. If you are standing in front of your bike, the right hand side (the side the axel slides out from) is the larger hub/bearing side. The side the bolt unthreads from is the left. As long as the bearings/hubs are the same diameter at the point where they press into the rim, the orientation may not matter until the hub/bearings are installed on the rim again. I hope that makes sense? If not, let me know I will try to elaborate more.
Currently I have only used Venom stands. However, I have heard tons of good things about PitBull and TRex stands. I think as long as they are quality built and serve you well, then they are a great stand.
The reason I'm asking is when I got my 06 they had hid in them and I kept going through rectifiers and stators until I went back to the stck halogen . Great video keep it up sir.
will mcdaniels I have burned through a stator and rectifier. What I have found is that the factory position of the rec is terrible! Lol. I moved my from between the header and radiator to inside of the air box. I need to edit and upload that video. But as far as I know, my headlight is stock. I bought the bike with 1k miles. Never asked if it was swapped. Now I am curious because I am still killing at least one battery per season.
Are you talking about the two small bolts on the front of the forks that clamp down the axle (through the rim bolt that bearings ride on)? If so, correct, you can leave them in. But, they must be loosened significantly.
Not really, the front tire is in a fixed position. Be certain you did not move anything you shouldn't have. Like bearings, spacers, washers ect. If you have moved something you shouldn't have, consult the expanded diagram in the service manual for your bike pertaining to the parts you are working on. Unless you know exactly where the part goes and the proper orientation of the part. It is always best to check your owners/service manuals for your specific motorcycle to be certain nothing is being done wrong (torque specs, order of parts ect.). Owners and service manuals can often be separate manuals. Make sure you are using the correct one. Service manuals can provide tons of info for service related things. Owners manuals can contain some service related material, but often help mostly with common knowledge and some parts.
When doing how to videos, why do people tend to give information that's useless or irrelevant, that people really don't give a shit about? The title of the video is the reason to click on the video in the first place. We don't care about your bike being dirty. Or your neighbor's lawn mower going on. Or it's a beautiful day outside, etc... We just want the pertinent information. But thank you for the info. Even though it was drawn out.
You're welcome. The reason many people do this (myself included) is to fill "dead space". If you are filming, hosting, directing ect. all on your own, running back and forward to the camera to pause would be terrible. Leaving "dead space" (long segments of silence while completing segments or tasks) is not only rough to edit but if not cut out it makes the video horrible and boring. Unfortunately, cutting that out may also cut out necessary illustration of the task as well. So the alternative is to speak often and not leave dead space. The non relevant random things are often because the task takes much longer than talking about it. So a quick random thought or phrase gives the host a few seconds to get their dialogue together in their head for upcoming narration. There does need to be a balance. Not all of us are "amazing" at keeping on topic for 10+ straight minutes. I fall short from time to time. But anything unscripted often does. I guess, try to think of someone speaking live and they continuously pause for 5 or more seconds and just "do nothing". Eventually you would pick up on that and start to focus on that or become uninterested relatively quickly.
@@therep49er Thank you for the explanation. It makes sense. But I'm one of those people that when I hit a video I just want the info. Time is the factor for me. Thank you again. I appreciate it.
Just to clarify for your viewers, the correct socket size is a 22mm socket.
Thanks for the good video!
Thanks for the correct size!
Glad i seen this..i was looking for a 19mm....thanks
THANX FOR BRINGING THAT ISSUE ABOUT THE SPACER BEING ONLY ONE..IT WAS DRIVING ME CRAZY BECAUSE I THOUGHT THAT THERE WAS SUPPOST TO BE 2 ONE ON EACH SIDE SO I ORDERED ANOTHER ONE AND WHEN I PUT THEM BOTH ON EACH SIDE THE AXLE WOULD NOT GO IN ALL THE WAY IN..BECAUSE IT WAS HITTING ON THE SPACER THAT I PUT IN THERE..SO I CAME TO UTUBE AND SAW YOUR VIDEO..THANX FOR THAT INFO THAT IT ONLY SUPPOST TO HAVE ONE SPACER ON THE RIGHT SIDE..YOU SAVED ME FROM DAMAGING SOMETHING..THANX FOR EXAPLAINING IT IN DETAIL..👍👍
Glad it helped! And kudos to you for tackling the this task on your own! Stay safe out there!
Thanks for the video. I was searching for the "other" spacer & then watched this and am glad it was only one.👍🏾
Glad it helped you out! Stay safe out there!
Awesome video man, thank you!! Great job explaining everything and making sense while doing it.
Michael Olson Thanks for watching and the comment! I try to make things easy to understand. It has been too long since my last upload. Gotta get it in gear and get another video up! Haha! Ride safe brother!
Top video and explanation. Thanks mate!
Thank you! No problem!
Good, simple video. However, I would avoid using an adjustable wrench, they tend to strip bolt heads. A 6pt 22mm socket would be a much better option. As per remounting the wheel, their is a direction arrow on the tire.
Agreed. I was being too lazy and cheap to go get the correct tool.
Very helpful Just move up to a GSXR 600 from a Ninja 300 big difference i have to replace wheels tires and bearings..
Thank you
Glad it was helpful! Enjoy your new bike!
Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou 👍🏽🙌🏼🙌🏼
You're very welcome! Stay safe on the road!
Thank you!! You da man!
bigchang23 glad the video was a help to ya! Makes making videos much more fun when I see some people comment about it helping them!
of course, alot of people have the same video but miss the part where you hammered out the axel and thats exactly what i needed, its the little things lol. thank you once again.
Not a problem. Ride safe!
Hey good job
@Brandon Wilkes thank you! Thanks for checking out the video and channel!
hey is it possible to remove the front and rear both if you have 2 of those stands? sorry I just noticed your back wheel is already off too
719Moto Mx Yes it is. As long as your do not interfere with your wheels coming off in any way. I have Venom stands and they have worked very well for me.
therep49er thanks
Good vid, sr, I can use a "pin stand" The one that fits in the gaps under the forks, To remove the the front tire too?
As long as the stand allows the forks to rest on the stand and the tire/lugs are free of any contact with the stand, you should be okay.
I just tried exactly this with a Pitbull front pin stand. The issue is it seems that you need to remove the front fairing to safely use the pin stand, so a stand that lifts by the forks would be easier so you don't have to take the front fairing off to lift the bike.
Good explanation! Much better than my previous attempt. Thanks for the input 👍
Do you have to bleed the brakes just changing the rim
As long as there is nothing wrong with your brakes, you shouldn't have to bleed them when removing/replacing the rim.
Great video
Thank you!
Thank You for the knowledge 🫡 👍
The reason why you are having to tap it out is that the stand isn't straight thus causing the axle to bind up....should slide in and out super easy when setup correctly
Thank you for the tip. Very easily could have been my issue.
@@therep49er no problem....did it a long time ago and then I simply moved the stand like a fraction of an inch to the left and then perfect.
@@justint5648 little tips always make big differences. I always enjoy picking up tips and passing them along.
Awesome thanks for video....I just ordered a hex tool because I thought I needed it to take off wheel ? I have 2003 gsxr 1000
You should use the proper size wrench. I was too lazy to go to the store and buy it lol. I think it is 22mm? I don't think it would differ from the 600 to the 1000. But it could.
So basically it will still come off the same way in video right ...I thought both sides needed loosening for some reason....but looks like once you loosen nut you can push the axle through
@@hoosierdad4 it should come off the same. I don't have any experience with 1000's but I can't see why it would be any different or different enough that it would take additional tools/steps.
Thanks ....I guess I'll just have Hex Tool added to my toolbox now haha ....it cost like $11 bucks free shipping
@@hoosierdad4 good to have the proper tools when you need them! Haha.
Nice, didnt think its that easy to take it off.
Not a problem!
So what if u getting rims powder coatted how do u know what side is what
Sorry for the delayed reply. Starting at about 10:50 in the video, I begin talking about orientation and knowing which side is which.
In your case with powder coating. Depending on your specific bike, you likely need to take off your rotors. If you have the same bike as me, your rotors attach to the hub/wheel bearings. You will need to take those off as well. Those bearings/hubs being left in the rim are what dictates the orientation if I am not mistaken. The bearings/hubs are what matters. Take note in the video, the axel shaft is different diameters on either end. One hub/bearing is larger inside diameter and the other side requires a spacer to fill the gap. If you are standing in front of your bike, the right hand side (the side the axel slides out from) is the larger hub/bearing side. The side the bolt unthreads from is the left. As long as the bearings/hubs are the same diameter at the point where they press into the rim, the orientation may not matter until the hub/bearings are installed on the rim again.
I hope that makes sense? If not, let me know I will try to elaborate more.
@@therep49er yea I heard that but when u get it powered coated they will paint over your mark on wheel
@@therep49er got it cuz the spacer
Yup! The spacer and the other side of the axel is larger.
whats your front stand setup?
Currently I have only used Venom stands. However, I have heard tons of good things about PitBull and TRex stands. I think as long as they are quality built and serve you well, then they are a great stand.
@@therep49er I have the exact same stands
TheSlavBiker. So far I am happy with them. Inexpensive and work well!
@@therep49er my buddy borrowed my ramp and lost it. He said here I'll buy you another and I said buy be paddock stands instead. Absolutely love them
Did you add a H.I.D head light kit ?
will mcdaniels I did not. The head and tail lights are stock.
The reason I'm asking is when I got my 06 they had hid in them and I kept going through rectifiers and stators until I went back to the stck halogen . Great video keep it up sir.
will mcdaniels I have burned through a stator and rectifier. What I have found is that the factory position of the rec is terrible! Lol. I moved my from between the header and radiator to inside of the air box. I need to edit and upload that video.
But as far as I know, my headlight is stock. I bought the bike with 1k miles. Never asked if it was swapped. Now I am curious because I am still killing at least one battery per season.
i second that:) bad location but if your bike is 08-09 and up I think there's a recall on that
will mcdaniels I got some weak ass headlight bulb any suggestions?
2 small tension bolts still on...
Are you talking about the two small bolts on the front of the forks that clamp down the axle (through the rim bolt that bearings ride on)? If so, correct, you can leave them in. But, they must be loosened significantly.
So there's really no alignment to do here...
Not really, the front tire is in a fixed position. Be certain you did not move anything you shouldn't have. Like bearings, spacers, washers ect. If you have moved something you shouldn't have, consult the expanded diagram in the service manual for your bike pertaining to the parts you are working on. Unless you know exactly where the part goes and the proper orientation of the part.
It is always best to check your owners/service manuals for your specific motorcycle to be certain nothing is being done wrong (torque specs, order of parts ect.).
Owners and service manuals can often be separate manuals. Make sure you are using the correct one. Service manuals can provide tons of info for service related things. Owners manuals can contain some service related material, but often help mostly with common knowledge and some parts.
When doing how to videos, why do people tend to give information that's useless or irrelevant, that people really don't give a shit about? The title of the video is the reason to click on the video in the first place. We don't care about your bike being dirty. Or your neighbor's lawn mower going on. Or it's a beautiful day outside, etc... We just want the pertinent information. But thank you for the info. Even though it was drawn out.
You're welcome.
The reason many people do this (myself included) is to fill "dead space". If you are filming, hosting, directing ect. all on your own, running back and forward to the camera to pause would be terrible. Leaving "dead space" (long segments of silence while completing segments or tasks) is not only rough to edit but if not cut out it makes the video horrible and boring. Unfortunately, cutting that out may also cut out necessary illustration of the task as well. So the alternative is to speak often and not leave dead space. The non relevant random things are often because the task takes much longer than talking about it. So a quick random thought or phrase gives the host a few seconds to get their dialogue together in their head for upcoming narration. There does need to be a balance. Not all of us are "amazing" at keeping on topic for 10+ straight minutes. I fall short from time to time. But anything unscripted often does. I guess, try to think of someone speaking live and they continuously pause for 5 or more seconds and just "do nothing". Eventually you would pick up on that and start to focus on that or become uninterested relatively quickly.
@@therep49er Thank you for the explanation. It makes sense. But I'm one of those people that when I hit a video I just want the info. Time is the factor for me. Thank you again. I appreciate it.
@@ladellp5135 I am often the same when looking for videos haha!