Hi again. I finally got around to watching part 2 (it's been a busy week!). I agree with you about those Hunts capacitors. I now change them on sight - if they aren't faulty they soon will be. That said I think it's a good idea to re-test the radio after every one or two capacitor changes. I got lazy at one stage and started re-capping a whole chassis in one go and that was fine until the time the radio didn't work when I'd finished. Trying to back track and find out what I'd done took many frustrating hours. As I recall it was a dropped blob of solder. Anyway, I like your methodical approach. Myself, I would be happy enough to probe the voltage test points with the radio on. As you found out, it needs to warm up properly and stabilize before you check voltages. As for an RF signal generator, I got myself an old 1950's Leader sig gen for $50. I plugged it in and it worked fine. It would be a nice project to restore it though. I have since bought myself a Rigol "function generator" because the old Leader wouldn't stretch to FM frequencies but I still like the old Leader & use it for AM alignments. Speaking of which, the whistling you're hearing when tuning stations is pretty much an indication that it needs an IF alignment. Anyway I'm looking forward to seeing you design and build an amplifier or two using TV valves. Cheers
You are responsible for my methodical approach as I learnt form your experience. I did test every couple of capacitors and had to back track after I applied to much heat to one. I guessed the radio needed some alignment. I do now have a old valve based RF signal generator (Advance Components signal generator type D1D) to do up. It weights 10Kg but will help me if it is not too heavy to be useful. Ironically, the radio stopped that whistling after I took it back, but I have the option to go back and set up if needed. For now it is working very well.
@@VintageandReclaimedElect Good luck I’ve just picked up a VHF54. This looks a bit of a challenge there are loads of hunts capacitors tucked away in some tight spaces. Not the best design but I’ll get it done.
Brilliant, love those BUSH radios, so gorgeous and brilliant engineering. My dad had a BUSH EBS-63, which he bought in the 60's, an export brand, very similar to this domestic model VHF-61. I am not an expert, but one day i hope to have this gem EBS-63 restored. The tubes are 2x EF89 (rf and if amplifier), ECH81, EBC81, EL84, EM81 and EZ80. The radio worked very well with ocassional repairs until 1983 and has not been operated since. I'm sure the paper caps and tubes will have to be checked and replaced. Thanks for sharing your restoration and great to see your VHF-61 working again. Best wishes from Vienna.
Thank you for the comment. I love this radio too and I really the memories that these restored radios bring back. I spend a good 2 hours with the owner of this radio as they recalled stories of family listing to this radio. With your radio I would suspect the tubes are fine. Tubes of the 1950-60's were made to last. I suspect it will be paper caps that need changing just as with this one.
@@VintageandReclaimedElectYes Sir. I hope the valves are good, in any case I’ve collected a spare set just in case. Meanwhile I have also made a Hot Chassis Plug, an idea shared by Mr.Caldeira on his YT channel, so as to avoid being zapped because the input cord is not polarised. Those piano type Band switches look elegant on your VHS-61 too. I share your joy in seeing the beauty come back to life. Cheers.
@@benoySimon EBS63 has an 'isolated' chassis, it uses a double wound mains transformer, the chassis should not be live regardless which way round the mains is connected, if it is, something is very wrong with it! i have a bigger version, EBS64, large wood case but same piano key control design
@@andygozzo72 - Yes indeed, you're absolutely right, on having a look at the circuit diagram, it does appear to be the isolated type. Thanks for your observation. This export model EBS63 has a wooden case and an unusual horizontal "spin-wheel" tuner, identical to the later model EBS66 which was apparently also in a wooden case. What a joy it brings just to see these lovely BUSH radios back in action. Best wishes.
@@benoySimon export models do occasionally turn up here in the UK and more of them seem to be Bush than any other brand, another one i have is EBS44L, supposedly one of the best ones they ever made, tuned RF amplifier stage and push pull output ,
New Subscriber here, look forward to your future projects. I'm currently restoring a vintage Hacker Sovereign II. Keeping away from the High Voltage stuff for the time being.
They are a lovely sounding radio especially when you can control the tone. On mine which is exactly the same, has brown knobs on. It seems strange seeing them in white.
@@VintageandReclaimedElect Having a quick search on Google images, they seem to come with white and brown knobs, but everything else seem to be the same, you learn something new everyday 🤗 The bush vhf62 is exactly the same radio but in a wooden case, which looks very nice 👍
these should give good results as they have 2 IF amplifiers, most usually had one, i have one of these with cracked case in the back of the shed to try and resurrect as and when i get chance to get to it!
@@VintageandReclaimedElect yep, the '64 is basically the 'big brother' of the '61, which was also available in wood case as VHF62, there were 2 ACDC models in 'similar' cabinets, VHF71 and VHF 72, but only one IF stage .. i have an EBS64 which is same case as VHF64 but an AM only MW plus 4 SW bands 'export' model with 'teleflic' dial
@@VintageandReclaimedElect make sure you check the grid 1 volts of the EL84 after its been on for a few minutes, they can suffer from grid current after many years of use and the grid creeping positive causing excessive anode current and possible component damage, many experienced 'engineers' restorers dont seem to know of this and i've not seen it mentioned in the various old servicing books i have, its a big problem especially with these small, close electrode spaced 'all glass' valves, i've come across this a lot ... it can make valves with good main emission completely unusable in normal valve circuitry,
@@VintageandReclaimedElect thing is it doesnt usually show any issues if it is developing grid current unless very severe, then you 'may' have distortion...it will mostly get hotter, the valve have shorter life and risk burning out the output transformer and/or mains transformer ..
Good afternoon sir, I have the same radio which I would like to restore. Would I be able to purchase a copy of your schematic and your hand written points on the schematic so I can test mine please. Also a list of parts you purchased and where you obtained them please. Shame to dump this lovely work of art. Let me know how I can communicate with you. Much appreciated. Gino
First, if you have not worked on a valve radio, be aware of the dangers. The voltages can be lethal. Schematics are available from numerous Internet sources. The Radio Museum and the code machine for one (sorry I cannot put links in comments). The schematic is part of the service manual and that lists all the parts and what type they are. Electrolytic and paper capacitors should be changed (about 24 in total). Then all out of tolerance resisters need changing too. Valves are generally OK but expect rotted wire insulation and perished rubber. The tweeter may need work along with the high frequency speaker cone. Quite a lot of work and a complex radio. Good luck.
I have exactly the same radio, same vintage as me, 1957 origin. I’m more comfortable with digital software than analogue hardware, so the process looks out of my pay range. Any ideas what I try to do, or who to take it to and get it working again? And likely cost 😮? It was working about 20 years ago and has been dry ever since I think.
I guess it depends how you emotional attachment there is to the radio. Component wise this cost about £35. It only needed new caps and a new mains lead. Valves tend to be solid and of the least concern. Its the paper caps that are rubbish (They are made by Hunts). Electrolytics can dry out so best change them. Everything else should be solid after testing the mains and output transformer. The issue will be that this took about 18 hours of works and a vintage restorer will want around £200+, to cover labour. I really do know know of any, but there are some good Facebook groups that can point you in a good direction. Ironically, you only need basic soldering skills, a fundamental understanding of components and a good multi-meter. So some basic modern electronics kits will get you started with the skill set. There are some vintage books on valve radio design that will really help if you have deeper problems. You really need to be aware of the voltages in these old radios. The high tension in this radio was 250V+. They can be lethal. I ensure they are plugged before applying any probe. All probes are clipped securely place so my hands are away from the device. I have a current limiter in the system at all times. I also wear rubber soled shoes to eliminate any path to earth.
Thanks for the detailed reply. Yes, I was aware (by googling) of the voltages involved, hence the nervousness! Yes, I would very much like to get it fixed, it was with me through my childhood with Family Favourites BFPO on Sunday and Billy Cotton ... The added complication is that I'm in Spain with 230V with a tendency to surge at times, so will need to be careful with surge protectors should the moment arrive. Your videos are superb, so I may tentatively have a go, although my guess would be that there may be local specialists who are old-schooled, there's a lot of older tech out here. If I lived next door to you I'd happily drop the radio with £250 haha! Thanks again@@VintageandReclaimedElect
@@VintageandReclaimedElect be warned i had one of these that had an open circuit output transformer, and heard of quite a few other cases of them failing in these, likely caused by overcurrent in the EL84 due to 'leaky' coupling capacitor, or could just be a poor type.....although the EL84s themselves are known to go into 'grid current' after a few minutes of use and pass excess anode current, i've seen this a lot, even more so with UL41s and UL84s
I have one of these radios and the volume seems to not be working... I would love to visit you with it, as you have experience with it and i am scared of it! Im not sure if you accept visitors?! Thanks!
@@VintageandReclaimedElect no probs! Do you happen to know which valve is responsible for the volume? The part number, as that is the culprit for mine I think
Hi again.
I finally got around to watching part 2 (it's been a busy week!). I agree with you about those Hunts capacitors. I now change them on sight - if they aren't faulty they soon will be. That said I think it's a good idea to re-test the radio after every one or two capacitor changes. I got lazy at one stage and started re-capping a whole chassis in one go and that was fine until the time the radio didn't work when I'd finished. Trying to back track and find out what I'd done took many frustrating hours. As I recall it was a dropped blob of solder. Anyway, I like your methodical approach. Myself, I would be happy enough to probe the voltage test points with the radio on. As you found out, it needs to warm up properly and stabilize before you check voltages. As for an RF signal generator, I got myself an old 1950's Leader sig gen for $50. I plugged it in and it worked fine. It would be a nice project to restore it though. I have since bought myself a Rigol "function generator" because the old Leader wouldn't stretch to FM frequencies but I still like the old Leader & use it for AM alignments. Speaking of which, the whistling you're hearing when tuning stations is pretty much an indication that it needs an IF alignment.
Anyway I'm looking forward to seeing you design and build an amplifier or two using TV valves.
Cheers
You are responsible for my methodical approach as I learnt form your experience. I did test every couple of capacitors and had to back track after I applied to much heat to one. I guessed the radio needed some alignment. I do now have a old valve based RF signal generator (Advance Components signal generator type D1D) to do up. It weights 10Kg but will help me if it is not too heavy to be useful. Ironically, the radio stopped that whistling after I took it back, but I have the option to go back and set up if needed. For now it is working very well.
The focus on this video is spot on. No problems.
Thank you
Great videos - I’ve done two renovations of these radios. I agree with the replacement of all the capacitors. Good to have details of the test points.
Thank you for the feedback. The Hunts caps have about an 80% failure rate for this age. I have a Bush VHF 64 next in line.
@@VintageandReclaimedElect
Good luck I’ve just picked up a VHF54. This looks a bit of a challenge there are loads of hunts capacitors tucked away in some tight spaces. Not the best design but I’ll get it done.
Brilliant, love those BUSH radios, so gorgeous and brilliant engineering. My dad had a BUSH EBS-63, which he bought in the 60's, an export brand, very similar to this domestic model VHF-61. I am not an expert, but one day i hope to have this gem EBS-63 restored. The tubes are 2x EF89 (rf and if amplifier), ECH81, EBC81, EL84, EM81 and EZ80. The radio worked very well with ocassional repairs until 1983 and has not been operated since. I'm sure the paper caps and tubes will have to be checked and replaced. Thanks for sharing your restoration and great to see your VHF-61 working again. Best wishes from Vienna.
Thank you for the comment. I love this radio too and I really the memories that these restored radios bring back. I spend a good 2 hours with the owner of this radio as they recalled stories of family listing to this radio. With your radio I would suspect the tubes are fine. Tubes of the 1950-60's were made to last. I suspect it will be paper caps that need changing just as with this one.
@@VintageandReclaimedElectYes Sir. I hope the valves are good, in any case I’ve collected a spare set just in case. Meanwhile I have also made a Hot Chassis Plug, an idea shared by Mr.Caldeira on his YT channel, so as to avoid being zapped because the input cord is not polarised. Those piano type Band switches look elegant on your VHS-61 too. I share your joy in seeing the beauty come back to life. Cheers.
@@benoySimon EBS63 has an 'isolated' chassis, it uses a double wound mains transformer, the chassis should not be live regardless which way round the mains is connected, if it is, something is very wrong with it! i have a bigger version, EBS64, large wood case but same piano key control design
@@andygozzo72 - Yes indeed, you're absolutely right, on having a look at the circuit diagram, it does appear to be the isolated type. Thanks for your observation. This export model EBS63 has a wooden case and an unusual horizontal "spin-wheel" tuner, identical to the later model EBS66 which was apparently also in a wooden case. What a joy it brings just to see these lovely BUSH radios back in action. Best wishes.
@@benoySimon export models do occasionally turn up here in the UK and more of them seem to be Bush than any other brand, another one i have is EBS44L, supposedly one of the best ones they ever made, tuned RF amplifier stage and push pull output ,
Very enjoyable, looking forward to seeing your future video's.
Thank you so much.
New Subscriber here, look forward to your future projects. I'm currently restoring a vintage Hacker Sovereign II. Keeping away from the High Voltage stuff for the time being.
Good to hear that. Good luck with the project.
@@VintageandReclaimedElectThanks!
They are a lovely sounding radio especially when you can control the tone.
On mine which is exactly the same, has brown knobs on.
It seems strange seeing them in white.
Thanks for that feedback. These knobs had were painted at some some time. It does sound great.
@@VintageandReclaimedElect Having a quick search on Google images, they seem to come with white and brown knobs, but everything else seem to be the same, you learn something new everyday 🤗
The bush vhf62 is exactly the same radio but in a wooden case, which looks very nice 👍
these should give good results as they have 2 IF amplifiers, most usually had one, i have one of these with cracked case in the back of the shed to try and resurrect as and when i get chance to get to it!
They sound great. I've brought a Bush VHF 64 as I fell on love with this 61. Well worth the effort.
@@VintageandReclaimedElect yep, the '64 is basically the 'big brother' of the '61, which was also available in wood case as VHF62, there were 2 ACDC models in 'similar' cabinets, VHF71 and VHF 72, but only one IF stage .. i have an EBS64 which is same case as VHF64 but an AM only MW plus 4 SW bands 'export' model with 'teleflic' dial
@@VintageandReclaimedElect make sure you check the grid 1 volts of the EL84 after its been on for a few minutes, they can suffer from grid current after many years of use and the grid creeping positive causing excessive anode current and possible component damage, many experienced 'engineers' restorers dont seem to know of this and i've not seen it mentioned in the various old servicing books i have, its a big problem especially with these small, close electrode spaced 'all glass' valves, i've come across this a lot ... it can make valves with good main emission completely unusable in normal valve circuitry,
Thanks for the advice. The Bush VHF 61 is away now so will have to follow up if there are issues with it.
@@VintageandReclaimedElect thing is it doesnt usually show any issues if it is developing grid current unless very severe, then you 'may' have distortion...it will mostly get hotter, the valve have shorter life and risk burning out the output transformer and/or mains transformer ..
Good afternoon sir, I have the same radio which I would like to restore. Would I be able to purchase a copy of your schematic and your hand written points on the schematic so I can test mine please. Also a list of parts you purchased and where you obtained them please. Shame to dump this lovely work of art. Let me know how I can communicate with you. Much appreciated. Gino
First, if you have not worked on a valve radio, be aware of the dangers. The voltages can be lethal. Schematics are available from numerous Internet sources. The Radio Museum and the code machine for one (sorry I cannot put links in comments). The schematic is part of the service manual and that lists all the parts and what type they are. Electrolytic and paper capacitors should be changed (about 24 in total). Then all out of tolerance resisters need changing too. Valves are generally OK but expect rotted wire insulation and perished rubber. The tweeter may need work along with the high frequency speaker cone. Quite a lot of work and a complex radio. Good luck.
@VintageandReclaimedElect thank you sir. I will be extra carefull for sure.
I have exactly the same radio, same vintage as me, 1957 origin. I’m more comfortable with digital software than analogue hardware, so the process looks out of my pay range. Any ideas what I try to do, or who to take it to and get it working again? And likely cost 😮? It was working about 20 years ago and has been dry ever since I think.
I guess it depends how you emotional attachment there is to the radio. Component wise this cost about £35. It only needed new caps and a new mains lead. Valves tend to be solid and of the least concern. Its the paper caps that are rubbish (They are made by Hunts). Electrolytics can dry out so best change them. Everything else should be solid after testing the mains and output transformer.
The issue will be that this took about 18 hours of works and a vintage restorer will want around £200+, to cover labour. I really do know know of any, but there are some good Facebook groups that can point you in a good direction. Ironically, you only need basic soldering skills, a fundamental understanding of components and a good multi-meter. So some basic modern electronics kits will get you started with the skill set. There are some vintage books on valve radio design that will really help if you have deeper problems. You really need to be aware of the voltages in these old radios. The high tension in this radio was 250V+. They can be lethal. I ensure they are plugged before applying any probe. All probes are clipped securely place so my hands are away from the device. I have a current limiter in the system at all times. I also wear rubber soled shoes to eliminate any path to earth.
Thanks for the detailed reply. Yes, I was aware (by googling) of the voltages involved, hence the nervousness! Yes, I would very much like to get it fixed, it was with me through my childhood with Family Favourites BFPO on Sunday and Billy Cotton ... The added complication is that I'm in Spain with 230V with a tendency to surge at times, so will need to be careful with surge protectors should the moment arrive. Your videos are superb, so I may tentatively have a go, although my guess would be that there may be local specialists who are old-schooled, there's a lot of older tech out here. If I lived next door to you I'd happily drop the radio with £250 haha! Thanks again@@VintageandReclaimedElect
either that or if you fancied a short free holiday near Alicante hahahaha
@@VintageandReclaimedElect be warned i had one of these that had an open circuit output transformer, and heard of quite a few other cases of them failing in these, likely caused by overcurrent in the EL84 due to 'leaky' coupling capacitor, or could just be a poor type.....although the EL84s themselves are known to go into 'grid current' after a few minutes of use and pass excess anode current, i've seen this a lot, even more so with UL41s and UL84s
I have one of these radios and the volume seems to not be working... I would love to visit you with it, as you have experience with it and i am scared of it! Im not sure if you accept visitors?! Thanks!
Thanks for the interest, but no thanks. I really am just doing a few radios for my collection and a couple for a good friend.
@@VintageandReclaimedElect no probs! Do you happen to know which valve is responsible for the volume? The part number, as that is the culprit for mine I think