I decided to take one of mine apart to check a few things. Here's what I found: * The input capacitors do indeed remain energized with the switch off. There is no bleeder resistor so they were sitting at 25V even 5 minutes after I disconnected the DC. So kudos to the poster who warned about that possibility. Easy to de-energize with a resistor (and if the fuse isn't blown, just turning the unit on with DC disconnected also de-energizes the input caps)... but good to remember. * There appears to be an input diode and an input bypass FET. The input diode is for reverse polarity protection of the caps. The input bypass FET presumably bypasses the diode (since otherwise 40A would melt it) once polarity has been determined to be ok. Since the diode is in-line anyway, a shorted diode wouldn't short the board out, it would just prevent the reverse polarity protection from working. * The bypass FET circuitry is a bit complex. I didn't want to completely disassemble the board so I'm not entirely sure how it is hooked up. * Most of the rest of board, particularly the output FETs, appears to be de-energized when the switch is off. * The "power switch" does not carry much power. The wires are tiny, so clearly it is a soft switch that controls (e.g.) the bypass FET. There is a current-sense resistor near the bypass FET as well so I assume that is how main power is routed. But I don't understand how they deal with the diode path... there must be another FET somewhere that I'm missing. Its a big diode... A 10A10 (cheap 10A rectifier diode), but it obviously has to be bypassed because the voltage drop across that type of diode is like 1.1V, otherwise it would melt at 40A. * There is an output relay on the 120VAC, which is nice... it allows the output stage to reach full power before its allowed through to the plugs. So I suspect either an input cap or that bypass FET is shorted out. The correct course of action when replacing the fuse didn't work is to get the whole unit replaced, for sure. -Matt
I so appreciate you taking the time and work to diagnose the possible problems I encountered. You made it easy to understand what was probably happening. Although I don't fully understand everything you mentioned, I have read it several times, and it's mostly sunk in for me. I'm definitely leaning towards your conclusion though...replacement of unit. Mahalo for sharing that information for all of us. Aloha!.🤙
I downloaded the manual for that inverter and dug around it it a bit... not much really. Basically says the fuse will blow if reverse polarity... but that's seems obvious to NOT be the issue. The other cute thing is it says you can't open the case to change the fuse without their permission... like that's available 24X7 or something. When a Man needs coffee, he needs coffee, and no permission is needed! :)
Haha! Amen brother! Got only a third of a cup before the pop! Then switched over to another system, finished waking up with coffee, and thought...that's a video! Aloha! 🤙
I'm not a mechanical engineer, but it might be possible to put one screw in so it couldn't be removed without prying it off so they could tell if you removed the cover without permission.
Glad the coffee machine still works! I'm pretty sure that high frequency inverters can damage sensitive load/s if they malfunction, something to do with an uncontrolled voltage spike.
Brother your dc side MOSFETs shorted and there is also sometimes the output IGBTs can short if you want repair it it you need to also Change the MOSFETs gate resistors that sometimes without experience make more problem so my advice buy for atlest 1.5kw inverter Beautiful place and always good to see your work Best regards from Philippines 🇵🇭☕☕
I just ordered a Victron Phoenix 24/1200 for a system that I'm building for my daughter... I'll probably be building the system next week, I guess with golf cart batteries if I don't find something better (on island?) before then. I have 8 GC2's that were lightly used, but I'd much rather find a LiFePO4 on island for that project.
Sounds like there is a short circuit somewhere or the inverter was being strained. A lot of times an inverter will be labeled 800 watts but using a constant 800 watt load will destroy it. I don't remember where I heard this from but the recommendation was if you have a 800 watt inverter a safe constant load is 400 watts. Or always buy an inverter that is double what you plan to use for a load. Usually its the heat is what destroys electronics when they are at their max usage.
Great information to share with us, and mahalo! As a rule I never really push my inverters too hard, or for very long under a heavy load. Popped that fuse within about one minute today. Aloha! 🤙
Funny that as I saw you changing the fuse I thought, it will blow again. Blown fuse is a symptom. It may be a cap or other component that has gone bad. Troubleshooting starts with looking at the circuit diagram and asking: what could cause the current to exceed the fuse capacity (40amps). Also consider the working conditions. You did well.
@@ProjectsinParadise808 Blown mosfet? Just change all of them 😂 I haven't had a bad inverter from Reliable going on 3 years of everyday using about 10kwh per day.
I have had nothing but great luck with my Reliable brand 1500w inverter. I purchased it new in 2016. I have been so abusive to mine it’s crazy. I even have a spare that I’ve never had to use. Mine has shut down for under voltage over voltage shots and keeps working.
Same here, working the others 24/7 zero problems. Alarm when they should allowing me to fine tune the cc, no probs at all. Never really over worked any one in any system. Had only been on for a minute or so when it first popped this morning. No clue why. Aloha! 🤙
When my first PSW popped a fuse (I foolishly mounted it where sunlight fell on it at one point) I learned the fuse was soldered into the board. Now part of my product selection is verifying the fuse is easily user-serviceable. Of course haven't had to replace a fuse since then! :-)
My first inverter was a Xantrex and it died in about a year so I triedout these. I had a 12v 2000w running things until a hurricane got it wet... that ended with a pop... upgraded things with 2 x 3000w inverters and they worked flawlessly for over a year but my charge controllers got too hot so I switched to a 24v bank and got a pair of these at 24v / 3000w. and they worked well. One was hard wired to a panel and the other used the plugs. Both have worked well... although recently i switched up some things and found one of the controllers was hitting overvoltage shutdown at 27.8 v instead of 30.5. I never noticed it before as there had always been a load on it that kept the voltage below the cutoff. So it has me thinking about inverters... and while these work well and are cheap as hell... I always feel like they are one step away from spectarular failure.
If you had one of those cheap milliohm meters used to check 18650s and suchlike, you could perhaps use it to trace the short, in lieu of not seeing anything obvious. IE. No cratered semiconductors or ruptured capacitors. I was looking to see if anything extra on the +25.6v line, incase something spiked (+/-)
How many watts does your coffee maker draw? Standard coffee makers draw 1,500 watts and that's only an 800w inverter. I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did.
It's best to look at the amps it uses rather than the watts. If using watts to measure a load versus your inverter's supply capability, remember to divide the wattage used by the power factor to get a VA figure, eg. 680 watts over a power factor of 0.78 equals 871.79 VA.
Darnit..I kinda knew it tho..I made a comment on one of the other videos about these inverters when u were commenting on how well they were doing for u.. I almost bought a few of 'em when I built my systems cuz they're so very reasonably priced..but I held off becuz so many ppl I knew were having issues with 'em..I just couldn't chance it. I ended up going with the CNSwi-power / Xijia Inverters on John Daniel Channel's advice (he tears 'em down, tests 'em and gives the company improvement advice for upgrades, and they actually listen).. I got the 3000 and now 6000 ones and they're doing very well so far. And about as well priced as the Reliable brand.
First time a Reliable failed on me. All the other's I use are running 24/7, no issues at all. I am going to look at the ones you mentioned. Mahalo for that! 🤙
Hmmm interesting. You freaked me placing the metal screw driver in by the fuse and capacitors. Those will hold charge for a while after disconnecting. And I’m extra paranoid. Anyway super interested in hearing what the actual cause is. If they tell u Take care.
Hope I do find out what happened. Yes, should have used something other than that screwdriver to point with! I was bit rattled after second fuse popped. Aloha! 🤙
One of the input capacitors must have shorted if it blew again with the inverter off. Not much else it could be. That is a bit concerning. I've got three of those suckers... no issues so far. Maybe humidity is causing issues... and I wouldn't discount bad capacitor sourcing by the vendor. A lot of this mass-produced stuff from China contains low-grade components, and electrolytic capacitors are especially vulnerable when it comes to poor quality control. Breakers make everything easy, for sure. I use mini DC breakers on a din rail, on everything. Both poles. Battery, external charger input, solar inputs, load outputs... 2-pole breakers on everything. Like 8 of them. Even though there might not seem to be much of a point on the solar inputs since those can't over-current anyway, the breakers are awesome for just being able to turn on and off the parts of the system that need to be worked on, without shutting the whole thing down. Even under load (though obviously it is best to unload the related circuit first).
You know with other electronics that fail out here sometimes, I always wonder about humidity. My Other three inverters run 24/7 and have not flinched once...knock on wood! Probably never know. Mahalo! 🤙
I was wondering if there was lightning and maybe a stray voltage induced to short it out. Trouble is, failures can be caused by also an infinite number of possibilities. That's why it rare to find a cause of failure.
I find it a waste of time to even try. They always just blame the user for any trouble. My latest broken electronics has a manual where the *first* sentence of the manual says "If you do anything wrong, the whole device will break." I should have just returned it then.
@@edwardlulofs444 honestly in my case it took me almost a year to get a serious response from them and that is after diagnosing the problem all by myself and asking if I could buy the parts from them, then they offer to send me the parts for free but I will have to pay the shipping. But that took almost a year. In the end I didn't really need the part as a friend had already fix the problem which turned out to be a manufacturer problem as they had put the screw in the heat sink lean and some of the mosfets wasn't resting on the heatsink property so when ever the inverter came under long-term use it the voltage drops. All I will say is dealing with the Chinese is like pulling teeth.
That sad. that inverter not that old. I had a old inverter pop fuse before. never got it working again. that one I found a bad FET . short D to S leads . but was a old one not true sign wave so instead i just got new better one. hope they make good on it. should be under warranty ? have to check receipt and manual . this is the first one of Reliable I had herd go bad. if stuck replacing go with bigger and better. what i had to do. That has over load shut down. I don't see that coffee pot a problem.
Yeah been using it everyday for months, and was doing great. Nothing but normal use today, but pooped out before one cup of coffee. First one I had go bad too, and others working hard 24/7, with no problems. Oh well it happens. I may never know why, but I will look at others . Really like having a small 24v system . ALoha! 🤙
May you please make a video that maybe clarify the sizes and fuses, as well as the charge controller sizes a little more? For instance, I also have a 2000 watt 12 volt pure sine wave inverter on a 100ah battery. I have a 100 amp ANL fuse connected, just like yours. I hardly pull more than a 100 watts from the inverter. Do you think this fuse size is big enough or must I go for a 200 amp fuse ( I am now thinking of the hair dryer video you posted)? Secondly, I only have the fuse between the battery and inverter and want to connect a breaker to discoonect the system if I have to. I would think that I would need a 150 amp dc breaker for this? I see you use 50 amp breakers from your charge controllers to you busbars, is this beacuse the charge controllers push out less amps than if the breaker would have been placed directly from the battery before the inverter? I know you have the big key disconnect switch on your main system, but I want to use the other type of breakers that you have in your systems (the type that has the button then the lever pops out at the bottom). Thirdly, I only use the system with the rolling blackouts we have in South Africa and then immediately charge the battery back up afterwards. I do however want to connect a 100watt solar panel in the system as I do not really exceed this wattage on the inverter. What size Victron charge controller would you advise me to get for just one mono crystalline panel to charge the one battery with this current that I am using? Sorry for all these questions, but I would really appreciate your advise and therefore thought that this might actually make for another interesting video. Thank you once again for the great information, I really appreciate your channel and use your videos as my go-to source when I am working on my system.
does it have the EGS002 universal board inside? or some bs board with the erased ICs,as usual ?hope not,i am looking for an inverter but ONLY with the EGS002, tired of the one-use-throw-away inverters that cannot be repaired . EGS002 is only 4 or 5 dol, and on a 17 pin socket,it's an easy fix.
Sadly most Chinese made kit is one time use. It may well be cheaper to buy another than repair the old one. The jelly screws are just a clear statement of this. However there are some youtuber who have made videos of inverter repair but it depends on your available repair tools skills and components, and you may still not be successful. The usual problems are fuses and semiconductors, you've tested the fuse but the semiconductors will have to be sourced (likely online) so you will have some money invested before you know that the repair worked.
Most likely one of the FETs shorted, they are the black 3 pin devices attached to the heatsink. You can look for cracks in them too. We used the same brand inverter in a golfcart we tried to make autonomous to supply power to the computers, never had an issue with it.
These inexpensive Chinese inverters are typically overrated. As you have found, they use low quality parts. I expect that one or more of the mosfets have blown. Knurlingar on TH-cam has good videos about these. A good rule of thumb is to run these at 1/2 their rated capacity, so you would only run up to 500 W on a 1000 W inverter.
"Reliable" is a bit of a misnomer when it comes to inexpensive (read: cheap) Chinese inverters. You have been lucky with the others but they will also go the way of this failure. If it is inexpensive there is a reason for that...you need to invest in a higher quality brand, although this can be difficult to ascertain. Of course, the high priced low frequency units would most likely last but they can be very expensive. Look at Samlex, a Taiwanese manufacturer that may be better quality (with US/Canada support), at a higher price and other more expensive brands. Also, the switching MOSFET's are often the culprit. You can easily test them with a multimeter, look for a short.
Victron is another good inverter option. You've had success with their solar controllers. Their internal toroidal transformers are very beefy and show high quality.
Would the mosfets be energised when the unit is switched off (on its little rocker switch) though? (Since the new fuse blew when the little rocker switch was switched off.)
Indeed it is, but I use a smaller less wattage coffee maker and have for months on this system. Suppose to draw 600 watts, but more like 670watts in reality. Aloha! 🤙
I decided to take one of mine apart to check a few things. Here's what I found:
* The input capacitors do indeed remain energized with the switch off. There is no bleeder resistor so they were sitting at 25V even 5 minutes after I disconnected the DC. So kudos to the poster who warned about that possibility. Easy to de-energize with a resistor (and if the fuse isn't blown, just turning the unit on with DC disconnected also de-energizes the input caps)... but good to remember.
* There appears to be an input diode and an input bypass FET. The input diode is for reverse polarity protection of the caps. The input bypass FET presumably bypasses the diode (since otherwise 40A would melt it) once polarity has been determined to be ok. Since the diode is in-line anyway, a shorted diode wouldn't short the board out, it would just prevent the reverse polarity protection from working.
* The bypass FET circuitry is a bit complex. I didn't want to completely disassemble the board so I'm not entirely sure how it is hooked up.
* Most of the rest of board, particularly the output FETs, appears to be de-energized when the switch is off.
* The "power switch" does not carry much power. The wires are tiny, so clearly it is a soft switch that controls (e.g.) the bypass FET. There is a current-sense resistor near the bypass FET as well so I assume that is how main power is routed. But I don't understand how they deal with the diode path... there must be another FET somewhere that I'm missing. Its a big diode... A 10A10 (cheap 10A rectifier diode), but it obviously has to be bypassed because the voltage drop across that type of diode is like 1.1V, otherwise it would melt at 40A.
* There is an output relay on the 120VAC, which is nice... it allows the output stage to reach full power before its allowed through to the plugs.
So I suspect either an input cap or that bypass FET is shorted out. The correct course of action when replacing the fuse didn't work is to get the whole unit replaced, for sure.
-Matt
I so appreciate you taking the time and work to diagnose the possible problems I encountered. You made it easy to understand what was probably happening. Although I don't fully understand everything you mentioned, I have read it several times, and it's mostly sunk in for me. I'm definitely leaning towards your conclusion though...replacement of unit. Mahalo for sharing that information for all of us. Aloha!.🤙
I downloaded the manual for that inverter and dug around it it a bit... not much really. Basically says the fuse will blow if reverse polarity... but that's seems obvious to NOT be the issue. The other cute thing is it says you can't open the case to change the fuse without their permission... like that's available 24X7 or something. When a Man needs coffee, he needs coffee, and no permission is needed! :)
Haha! Amen brother! Got only a third of a cup before the pop! Then switched over to another system, finished waking up with coffee, and thought...that's a video! Aloha! 🤙
I'm not a mechanical engineer, but it might be possible to put one screw in so it couldn't be removed without prying it off so they could tell if you removed the cover without permission.
The extra holes are for an additional fuse mount. You lost a FET or a CAP failed in the driver circuit.
Mahalo for that...never knew. Aloha! 🤙
Glad the coffee machine still works! I'm pretty sure that high frequency inverters can damage sensitive load/s if they malfunction, something to do with an uncontrolled voltage spike.
Nothing happens before coffee! All systems working great now. That was my first inverter fail. Aloha! 🤙
Brother your dc side MOSFETs shorted and there is also sometimes the output IGBTs can short if you want repair it it you need to also Change the MOSFETs gate resistors that sometimes without experience make more problem so my advice buy for atlest 1.5kw inverter
Beautiful place and always good to see your work
Best regards from Philippines 🇵🇭☕☕
Appreciate the feedback! Mahalo for being part of the conversation brother! Aloha! 🤙
I just ordered a Victron Phoenix 24/1200 for a system that I'm building for my daughter... I'll probably be building the system next week, I guess with golf cart batteries if I don't find something better (on island?) before then. I have 8 GC2's that were lightly used, but I'd much rather find a LiFePO4 on island for that project.
Sounds like there is a short circuit somewhere or the inverter was being strained. A lot of times an inverter will be labeled 800 watts but using a constant 800 watt load will destroy it. I don't remember where I heard this from but the recommendation was if you have a 800 watt inverter a safe constant load is 400 watts. Or always buy an inverter that is double what you plan to use for a load. Usually its the heat is what destroys electronics when they are at their max usage.
Great information to share with us, and mahalo! As a rule I never really push my inverters too hard, or for very long under a heavy load. Popped that fuse within about one minute today. Aloha! 🤙
Engineers call that a safety factor of 2. And I'm a big proponent of safety factors.
At least the fuse isn't soldered in... Tried to deal with that before, and the scrap bin was the ultimate winner. Aloha.
Really was hoping for an easy fix...guess not. Aloha! 🤙
Funny that as I saw you changing the fuse I thought, it will blow again.
Blown fuse is a symptom.
It may be a cap or other component that has gone bad. Troubleshooting starts with looking at the circuit diagram and asking: what could cause the current to exceed the fuse capacity (40amps). Also consider the working conditions. You did well.
Yep..regulating diode/capacitor gone bad I'd say too.
🤙 Aloha
@@ProjectsinParadise808 Blown mosfet? Just change all of them 😂 I haven't had a bad inverter from Reliable going on 3 years of everyday using about 10kwh per day.
I have had nothing but great luck with my Reliable brand 1500w inverter. I purchased it new in 2016. I have been so abusive to mine it’s crazy. I even have a spare that I’ve never had to use. Mine has shut down for under voltage over voltage shots and keeps working.
Same here, working the others 24/7 zero problems. Alarm when they should allowing me to fine tune the cc, no probs at all. Never really over worked any one in any system. Had only been on for a minute or so when it first popped this morning. No clue why. Aloha! 🤙
When my first PSW popped a fuse (I foolishly mounted it where sunlight fell on it at one point) I learned the fuse was soldered into the board. Now part of my product selection is verifying the fuse is easily user-serviceable. Of course haven't had to replace a fuse since then! :-)
My first inverter was a Xantrex and it died in about a year so I triedout these. I had a 12v 2000w running things until a hurricane got it wet... that ended with a pop... upgraded things with 2 x 3000w inverters and they worked flawlessly for over a year but my charge controllers got too hot so I switched to a 24v bank and got a pair of these at 24v / 3000w. and they worked well. One was hard wired to a panel and the other used the plugs. Both have worked well... although recently i switched up some things and found one of the controllers was hitting overvoltage shutdown at 27.8 v instead of 30.5. I never noticed it before as there had always been a load on it that kept the voltage below the cutoff. So it has me thinking about inverters... and while these work well and are cheap as hell... I always feel like they are one step away from spectarular failure.
I still use an old Xantrex. They used to be the gold standard way back when. Mahalo for sharing your experiences with us! Aloha!🤙
If you had one of those cheap milliohm meters used to check 18650s and suchlike, you could perhaps use it to trace the short, in lieu of not seeing anything obvious. IE. No cratered semiconductors or ruptured capacitors. I was looking to see if anything extra on the +25.6v line, incase something spiked (+/-)
How many watts does your coffee maker draw? Standard coffee makers draw 1,500 watts and that's only an 800w inverter. I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did.
600 watt coffee maker, which actually draws 670 watts. Been using it for months with zero problems. Aloha! 🤙
It's best to look at the amps it uses rather than the watts. If using watts to measure a load versus your inverter's supply capability, remember to divide the wattage used by the power factor to get a VA figure, eg. 680 watts over a power factor of 0.78 equals 871.79 VA.
Darnit..I kinda knew it tho..I made a comment on one of the other videos about these inverters when u were commenting on how well they were doing for u..
I almost bought a few of 'em when I built my systems cuz they're so very reasonably priced..but I held off becuz so many ppl I knew were having issues with 'em..I just couldn't chance it.
I ended up going with the CNSwi-power / Xijia Inverters on John Daniel Channel's advice (he tears 'em down, tests 'em and gives the company improvement advice for upgrades, and they actually listen)..
I got the 3000 and now 6000 ones and they're doing very well so far. And about as well priced as the Reliable brand.
th-cam.com/video/5P6VZbrJN6o/w-d-xo.html
First time a Reliable failed on me. All the other's I use are running 24/7, no issues at all. I am going to look at the ones you mentioned. Mahalo for that! 🤙
Hopefully they'll send you a 1000 watt inverter👍
🤙
Hmmm interesting. You freaked me placing the metal screw driver in by the fuse and capacitors. Those will hold charge for a while after disconnecting. And I’m extra paranoid.
Anyway super interested in hearing what the actual cause is. If they tell u
Take care.
Hope I do find out what happened. Yes, should have used something other than that screwdriver to point with! I was bit rattled after second fuse popped. Aloha! 🤙
I was scared also!
One of the input capacitors must have shorted if it blew again with the inverter off. Not much else it could be. That is a bit concerning. I've got three of those suckers... no issues so far. Maybe humidity is causing issues... and I wouldn't discount bad capacitor sourcing by the vendor. A lot of this mass-produced stuff from China contains low-grade components, and electrolytic capacitors are especially vulnerable when it comes to poor quality control.
Breakers make everything easy, for sure. I use mini DC breakers on a din rail, on everything. Both poles. Battery, external charger input, solar inputs, load outputs... 2-pole breakers on everything. Like 8 of them. Even though there might not seem to be much of a point on the solar inputs since those can't over-current anyway, the breakers are awesome for just being able to turn on and off the parts of the system that need to be worked on, without shutting the whole thing down. Even under load (though obviously it is best to unload the related circuit first).
You know with other electronics that fail out here sometimes, I always wonder about humidity. My Other three inverters run 24/7 and have not flinched once...knock on wood! Probably never know. Mahalo! 🤙
I was wondering if there was lightning and maybe a stray voltage induced to short it out.
Trouble is, failures can be caused by also an infinite number of possibilities. That's why it rare to find a cause of failure.
My brother wish you luck with contacting Reliable. I find you have to constantly writing them to get a solution.
Maybe they will reach out for a follow up? Aloha! 🤙
I find it a waste of time to even try. They always just blame the user for any trouble.
My latest broken electronics has a manual where the *first* sentence of the manual says "If you do anything wrong, the whole device will break."
I should have just returned it then.
@@edwardlulofs444 honestly in my case it took me almost a year to get a serious response from them and that is after diagnosing the problem all by myself and asking if I could buy the parts from them, then they offer to send me the parts for free but I will have to pay the shipping. But that took almost a year. In the end I didn't really need the part as a friend had already fix the problem which turned out to be a manufacturer problem as they had put the screw in the heat sink lean and some of the mosfets wasn't resting on the heatsink property so when ever the inverter came under long-term use it the voltage drops. All I will say is dealing with the Chinese is like pulling teeth.
@@howardescoffery4950 I totally agree. These people have learned the art of snake oil salesman - Yankee salesman.
I have an inverter that blew out 24 caps. I replaced them with good grade caps and they will hold a charge for 2 years be off. Be careful of the caps.
That sad. that inverter not that old. I had a old inverter pop fuse before. never got it working again. that one I found a bad FET . short D to S leads . but was a old one not true sign wave so instead i just got new better one. hope they make good on it. should be under warranty ? have to check receipt and manual . this is the first one of Reliable I had herd go bad. if stuck replacing go with bigger and better. what i had to do. That has over load shut down. I don't see that coffee pot a problem.
Yeah been using it everyday for months, and was doing great. Nothing but normal use today, but pooped out before one cup of coffee. First one I had go bad too, and others working hard 24/7, with no problems. Oh well it happens. I may never know why, but I will look at others . Really like having a small 24v system . ALoha! 🤙
May you please make a video that maybe clarify the sizes and fuses, as well as the charge controller sizes a little more?
For instance, I also have a 2000 watt 12 volt pure sine wave inverter on a 100ah battery.
I have a 100 amp ANL fuse connected, just like yours. I hardly pull more than a 100 watts from the inverter. Do you think this fuse size is big enough or must I go for a 200 amp fuse ( I am now thinking of the hair dryer video you posted)?
Secondly, I only have the fuse between the battery and inverter and want to connect a breaker to discoonect the system if I have to. I would think that I would need a 150 amp dc breaker for this? I see you use 50 amp breakers from your charge controllers to you busbars, is this beacuse the charge controllers push out less amps than if the breaker would have been placed directly from the battery before the inverter? I know you have the big key disconnect switch on your main system, but I want to use the other type of breakers that you have in your systems (the type that has the button then the lever pops out at the bottom).
Thirdly, I only use the system with the rolling blackouts we have in South Africa and then immediately charge the battery back up afterwards. I do however want to connect a 100watt solar panel in the system as I do not really exceed this wattage on the inverter. What size Victron charge controller would you advise me to get for just one mono crystalline panel to charge the one battery with this current that I am using?
Sorry for all these questions, but I would really appreciate your advise and therefore thought that this might actually make for another interesting video.
Thank you once again for the great information, I really appreciate your channel and use your videos as my go-to source when I am working on my system.
Great suggestions, and for sure worthy of a more in depth video, which I will do. Mahalo! 🤙
does it have the EGS002 universal board inside?
or some bs board with the erased ICs,as usual ?hope not,i am looking for an inverter but ONLY with the EGS002, tired of the one-use-throw-away inverters that cannot be repaired .
EGS002 is only 4 or 5 dol, and on a 17 pin socket,it's an easy fix.
Sadly most Chinese made kit is one time use. It may well be cheaper to buy another than repair the old one. The jelly screws are just a clear statement of this. However there are some youtuber who have made videos of inverter repair but it depends on your available repair tools skills and components, and you may still not be successful. The usual problems are fuses and semiconductors, you've tested the fuse but the semiconductors will have to be sourced (likely online) so you will have some money invested before you know that the repair worked.
Most likely one of the FETs shorted, they are the black 3 pin devices attached to the heatsink. You can look for cracks in them too.
We used the same brand inverter in a golfcart we tried to make autonomous to supply power to the computers, never had an issue with it.
I'm going to break out the magnifying glass and peek around in there some more. Mahalo! 🤙
How many amps does the coffee maker pull?
About 60 give or take 🤙
@@ProjectsinParadise808What about on the AC side (assuming the coffee maker runs on 120v AC).
I think you have some burned transistors?
Most likely cheaper to just replace the inverter
Most likely for sure...Aloha! 🤙
@@ProjectsinParadise808 Try the Victron Phoenix 1200
Hey. I believe you man have had some kind of short circuit on the AC out side damaging some out put IGBT
I have no clue at this point. Aloha! 🤙
Lol
Can this 800w handle a new fridge…
It can easily handle the 20cu.ft. fridge I run which only draws 60-80 watts while running.🤙
These inexpensive Chinese inverters are typically overrated.
As you have found, they use low quality parts. I expect that one or more of the mosfets have blown.
Knurlingar on TH-cam has good videos about these.
A good rule of thumb is to run these at 1/2 their rated capacity, so you would only run up to 500 W on a 1000 W inverter.
"Reliable" is a bit of a misnomer when it comes to inexpensive (read: cheap) Chinese inverters. You have been lucky with the others but they will also go the way of this failure. If it is inexpensive there is a reason for that...you need to invest in a higher quality brand, although this can be difficult to ascertain. Of course, the high priced low frequency units would most likely last but they can be very expensive. Look at Samlex, a Taiwanese manufacturer that may be better quality (with US/Canada support), at a higher price and other more expensive brands. Also, the switching MOSFET's are often the culprit. You can easily test them with a multimeter, look for a short.
I will take a look at the Samlex, as well as a few others. Mahalo!! 🤙
Victron is another good inverter option. You've had success with their solar controllers. Their internal toroidal transformers are very beefy and show high quality.
I will add triple emphasis to everything that you said. These new technologies seem to break if you only frown at them.
Would the mosfets be energised when the unit is switched off (on its little rocker switch) though? (Since the new fuse blew when the little rocker switch was switched off.)
800w is small for a coffee maker
Indeed it is, but I use a smaller less wattage coffee maker and have for months on this system. Suppose to draw 600 watts, but more like 670watts in reality. Aloha! 🤙
@@ProjectsinParadise808 I have that same 4-5 cup mini - Mr. Coffee and it works fine with a 1000W inverter.
I have an 1100w one and a fridge as well as a few other 'lil things on my CNSwi-power/ Xijia 3000w inverter and it's doing very well so far.
Very probably one or more FET shorted due to fatigue.
Cheap to buy but need some practice to replace them.
Aloha🙋♀️
Wow, never seen a 25.6 LifO
🤙
you can get 48v 50ah lifepo4's too. They seem to be considerably more pricey per joule though.
@@ProjectsinParadise808 So what turned out to be the inverter problem and how did you resolve the issue?
Get some better quality fuses for the future, those fuses are cheaply made
Got some better quality here to install for sure. 🤙
480 watts is all that fuse is good for and the other holes are for a extra fuse the didnt put in
That"s interesting , did not know ...Mahalo! 🤙
I thought it was fused at 40a at 25.6v which is a shade over 1000w
@@technishn isn't it a 12v system i thought if not my bad
You wouldn't need to replace fuses in a real inverter.