Canon EOS R5 Setup Guide for Photography - Best Settings For Photos
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ธ.ค. 2022
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Videos I mention in this tutorial:
Canon R5 Best Autofocus Settings: • Canon EOS R5/R6 best a...
AUTO ISO Explained: • Camera Settings: Auto ...
R5 Grip Review: • Canon BG-R10 battery g...
Canon R5 CSM Modes Explained: • Canon EOS R5/R6 Custom...
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Very helpful, thanks Pete!
My pleasure!
Your video helped me immensely!! THANK YOU!! 😊
You're so welcome!
Thank you. An excellent introduction.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Thank you! Marcos, from Brazil.
Thanks for watching!
Could you do a video for concert photography settings? I know that it can be a very broad subject, but maybe the best aperture, f-stop, ISO, etc, for concert photography. For the Canon R5?!
Sure! Concert photography is a blast! I do some, but it's mostly in small bars around NYC, not big venues.
Great video
Thanks!
Hi! Where does it show the remaining space or shots available during shooting? Thanks
Hi! It will show on the top screen and on the rear screen. If you don't see it, press the info button until it shows (on the rear screen it will be on the top towards the left side
@@PeteCocoPhoto Thanks Pete but I still cannot find it. I have a ton of headshots in one day and want to be able to know what’s ahead of me if you know what I mean! No one else seems to know on Canon forums.
@@PeteCocoPhoto Thank you very much for responding!
Pete (I've got R6, commands are 90% the same except mode dial/top screen), when you were talking about ISO button I was astonished, I immediately thought "oh god, please tell me that Canon hasn't limited the top dial to just scroll across shooting modes!", but then you talked about aperture control with the back dial, and specify that you control aperture also via top dial.
Question: can't you map the top dial to scroll directly across iso? (that's how I do it on the R6) And if you can (mean Canon allows it), why are you not doing it, and prefer a button press + front dial to change it? It's a curiosity, not a bashing 🙂 having three dials I would have thought should be natural to have those three mapped for the elements of the exposure triangle.
I also add, i just swapped my backup M6 Mark II for an ex-demo R10 (actually i even earned 100€ from the switch!), and this R10 is really a mini R6 when looking at commands and dials, has front dial and top dial, and lacks back dial (but has joystick, a thing never seen in a low segment body!); when setting R10 I did it like the R6, so shutter on the front dial, iso on top dial, and lacking the back dial, for aperture I use the control dial on RF lenses or on the RF to EF adapter (I've then one with the ring).
So second question: if for some reason you may want the aperture both on top and back dials, why don't you use control dial on RF lenses for the iso?
About buttons, i nearly remapped all of them: video record is now external flash control, MF-n is direct swap between focus area selection (and having only two activated, single and multi-zone, it's like a two mode switch button, really fast), the star is eco on/off, the af points selection is eye af on/off, AF-ON open white balance menu, SET button is now shooting drive modes (single, multi frame, timer/remote, etc), DoF button now switches from single to servo focus, and for bringing back the af point to centre I press the joystick which I think is most intuitive way of doing it because you may already have your thumb on it if you're playing with focus point positioning. I would remap the RATE button but unfortunately is not doable, that's vey bad because it's a button i really NEVER EVER used in my life even if i had in multiple cameras, at least half a dozen.
I remapped all of them because I have touch screen disabled, so i need to do everything via buttons, without touching the screen or using menu; also exp sim is always turned off, I use the camera as it was with an optical viewfinder, I find it more fitting for my working style, I started with film so I don't mind not seeing the immediate result of exposure in the viewfinder prior to the shoot, it actually distracts me.
Hey Ritratto, thanks for the detailed response! Regarding the ISO mapping, yes, you can map the top mode dial but I prefer it the other way for two reasons. First, I like having to press and hold a button to change the ISO so I don't accidentally change it. Second, I like having the aperture control in two places since that is what I change the most throughout a shoot, and depending on how I am holding the camera one or the other works well.
Regarding the control ring, I did have the aperture mapped to that for a time but I kept changing it by accident since the ring moves rather freely, which was not good. Then, I tried it set to only change when I held down a button, but that isn't convenient at all, so now I just disable it altogether except for manual focus.
I agree with you on the RATE button, which I barely use as well. I'm not sure why that is not mappable. I thought of disabling the touch screen, but I actually find it extremely convenient when looking for a quick setting change. Honestly, even after a year plus, sometimes I forget where a certain setting is and it takes me a second to make an adjustment. Chock it up to age, or the fact that I'm also using a different system, but the touch screen has helped me out on many occasions when I wanted to change something like the card, resolution, or drive mode, for instance.
Hope this makes sense and thanks again for sharing your settings! Good stuff.
@@PeteCocoPhoto yeah it makes sense 🙂 for risk of moving the top dial and change iso, I don't know the hardness on R5, ma the top dial on the R6 is REALLY hard (it's much harder then the front dial, which is medium, and the back dial which is the softest to turn by accident), so it's really difficult to change it by mistake; i also regularly use the lock button in controlled/steady situations (except at weddings of course, when i may want to change the exposure triangle fast as i shoot in full manual), so I rarely find myself changing by mistake.
Most changed parameter depends, in studio with strobes it's aperture as well (even if i tend to lock it, and change strobe power if I need some change in exposure) and leaving iso and shutter locked, while outdoor i usually choose and lock iso and aperture, and i handle exposure with shutter speed which become my compensation parameter.
Touch screen i really don't like, always immediately disabled out of the box in all my cameras; i'm faster with buttons and dials, and i like cleans screen, without any fingerprint. Only exception i had (and that was a really big part of the switch to R10) was the backup M6 Mark II because it hasn't the joystick, so (re)positioning single af point on screen with the 4-way controller was slow and not precise, so with that camera i had to leave the touchscreen mostly active to use it for af point positioning. As soon as i found the opportunity for the R10 with the joystick, i switched immediately.
@@ritrattoaziendale Initially I hated the touch screen too, but I came to appreciate how easy it is to make adjustments. I might give your suggestion a try regarding the aperture on the top mode dial. It's definitely strong enough not to move freely. You know, even at my session yesterday I had to think for a second regarding aperture/shutter speed control. I don't get it. I never had to think about it before. I think I'm getting old LOL. That's also one thing I liked so much about the Fuji XH2s, the aperture and shutter speed is directly next to the corresponding dial so it was very intuitive.
@@PeteCocoPhoto I use Canon since 1999, and never used any other manufacturer, so for me "shutter on the front dial, aperture on the back dial" is the same since...for sure the 20D that i got in 2008, but probably even my film Eos 33 around 2003/2004 had the same setup with the wheel in the back.
So it's 15 to 20 years that the aperture/shutter config has never changed for me; those two i never have to think, I always know where they are.
For the ISO even on 5D series, and 6D later, I always had to push iso button and use front wheel; but I have to say, since i got R6 with the third wheel on top, and I tried to set ISO with that, well it was love at first sight! And try to force yourself in using the lock button, may be strange at first, when you get use to it, believe you will never move a dial anymore without your full will. I think Canon was very smart with that button, and also having it on a non-pro R10 show it's importance.
@@ritrattoaziendale Cool, thanks for all the inside my man. I've been using Canon for a similar amount of time. I had an EOS-1, EOS-3 (my favorite!), A2e, etc, so I'm not sure what my issue is. Generally I have no trouble but sometimes I just stare at camera trying to remember my settings. Maybe it's just my 40s asserting dominance hahaha!
Wish there was a close up images with labels of the buttons you are speaking of. No manuel came with this expensive camera.
Hi Kathleen! Thanks for the feedback, I will make sure to keep that in mind for the next vid. Here's a PDF version of the manual that might help you out: cam.start.canon/en/C003/manual/html/index.html
It's so crazy that these companies don't give a physical instruction book with these expensive cameras.
@@PeteCocoPhoto Thank you Pete. I have a very important video shoot around the corner-trying to help with a GoFundMe for an ill friend. This link will help! :- )
Hello, love your videos.
I just got my canon eos R5 camra and when I try to put it on servo it's only showing manual. I'm not seeing any option for servo. Is it hiding somewhere else?
You probably have the AF/MF switch on your lens set to MF. Make sure the lens is set to AF (autofocus). Thanks for watching!
Absolutely,thank you so much. Very greatful
there are focal length ( under IS option )if you don/t put your lens on , what does it do ?
I'm not sure I understand the question but you should make sure that if you are using a lens with built in IS, the switch is set to ON.
@@PeteCocoPhoto i wish i can show u the pic , but i noticed since firmware 1.7.0 ( or maybe its there since 1.0 , if you turn on the cam without any lens attached theres an option ( in camera option ( red ) row 7 under IS mode )theres a third option called focal length , you can adjust it manualy , i dont know what thats for , when i click it it said 50mm , but you can change the length manualy , so far im using old ef lenses with adapter, planning to buy rf lenses later on so any suggestion on that ? Thanks 🙏🏻
@@stephen7627 Interesting, I have no idea about that. Maybe it optimizes the IS depending on the focal length? RF lenses are awesome, but extremely expensive. Right now I still use a 70-200 2.8 EF for most of my headshot work and a 50mm 1.4 as well. They do the job and focus super fast!
@@PeteCocoPhoto ic , yeah true and yes old ef lenses still focus great , i'm still using my 24-70 f2.8 mk 1 , but strangely at high shutter speed it does still misses focus , even at decent speed for portrait , is it me or my old 5D mark 4 focuses better , or maybe the R5 focused to fast dor my lens to follow
A hack I found to get around not having Exposure Simulation with flash is the put a small piece of tape over the 4 small terminals of the hotshoe. Then if you use a flash or trigger you get full visual of the "ambient" exposure as you change exposure settings. You can change the flash settings and fire it/them like normal. This works great for manual flash only, no auto settings ( which I never use)
This is a great hack, thanks David! Until recently, I was using manual triggers so it didn't make a difference, but I have upgraded to a dedicated Godox trigger since then. My only concern with taping it would be not taping it properly or having the tape shift and then causing some kind of error in the camera.
@@PeteCocoPhoto There are only 3 negatives to doing this. First like I mentioned this is for Manual flash only, Second, rear curtain sync will not work. Third High speed sync will not work. For me these are not issues for 99.9% of my shooting so my hotshoe always has this tape on it.
@@getdavo1 Good to know. I shoot the same way, 99% manual flash.