Clarity Ep 56 - Removing the Initial Wax Finish
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2024
- Welcome to Crimson Guitars www.youtube.co... and welcome to Episode 56 of the Clarity series of videos. This guitar is based on a Robert Fripp design.
In this episode, Ben has decided that the original wax finish had not worn the test of time and was not good enough for this beautiful custom guitar.
When this episode was filmed Ben had just moved the Crimson Guitars workshop into the new premises. You will recognise the familiar tool rack backdrop. The first of many, many iterations and that initial space has grown and grown around us.
(Please note: Crimson Guitars produces top-of-the-range finishing products. www.crimsongui...)
This Video series with Ben Crowe at Crimson Guitars in the UK
(www.crimsonguit...) became the backbone of the Crimson Guitars online tutorials for a few years.
Please note that this series was filmed in 2013. This means that some of Ben's techniques and opinions have since changed, however, much of the content is still relevant so we hope that you will benefit from this series and the updated links.
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Your videos are quite addictive and calming.
Interesting to see the change in decision about the finish Ben, would be interested to know how you would finish this guitar today having moved on in skill and techniques, and also have developed the guitar finishing oil.
I'm following this building from the first video. I'm simply stunned.
The problem with a wax finish is that it needs to be constantly maintained by periodic buffing and occasional re- waxing.
Even though it seems nice and dry, it's still relatively soft and tends to collect crud from the environment, giving it a dull appearance.
One of your internet luthier colleagues recommends using a heavy earth magnet when using steel wool. It catches the pieces so they don't get all over.
Hi Ben. Is a bit unrelated, but have you done a blog about emphasising grain on a stained guitar? If you used your stain (eg crimson red) on ash, then sanded back then reapplied, would this bring out the grain, or would you need to use some sort of darker filler? Does the stain have a different absorbency in the grain compared to the wood, and does the grain swell more or less with water based stain? Many thanks
Ben - you could use a tampon with regular talc inside (as an abrassive). It works quite the same but its "natural" :) That's what I've found in my shellac finish research. Anyway - that piece of guitar is a huge amount of a great job!
I watched the previous episode with the Ren Wax and now puzzled... Should I stain it then use your finishing oil, then use steel wool and then re-oil using CG finishing oil again?
So now this is publicly available, when we going to get some new Members content? ;)
Do you use a filler to level the timber surface,?? I'm now trying to end up with a glass like lacquer finish after removing my initial wax finish which is nice, but will not have the long term durability of a filled lacquer, client sample supplied at pickup.!! ... any suggestions appreciated .!! Regards Geoff
Personally I'd have kept going with the shellac. It's not as difficult as people try to make out. 8-10 coats without sanding, just sand at the end, then 2 more coats of shellac/oil mix. 3 parts shellac to one part oil. Leave it for 2 days then rub with naptha to remove the oil which comes to the surface. Then buff it the day after that. Give it a try on a scrap of wood. You'll be surprised at the result. Love the guitar by the way.
I'd really like to do a flat black guitar but didnt want to just paint it... I was thinking of dying/ebonizing the wood and tgen applying a finish similar to where this one was at the beginng of this vid. Do you think that would make a classy looking finish or will it look like shit?
Hi Ben please I'd like to know with certainty wether it's dangerous leaving rags or paper tissues with shellack or different oils like teak oil or danish oil on them dry (for example you throw em away in a trash can) and if they really can cause a fire start. Thanks.
+Soulleecher yes yes yes! It is 100% dangerous to leave finishing oil rags in a bin or a random pile etc. As they dry they give off heat, an exothermic reaction, and if you are unlucky that could, and does, cause a fire. I have a bucket half full of water for our oil rags at Crimson Guitars
Thanks. So as long as the rags and paper tissues end up immerged in a water bucket it's reasonably safe.
thank you Ben
Ben that is looking awesome! Glad to see you gave us a teaser on the clarity it's been a while on the podcasts my friend are you going to continue doing them ? I have strayed to watching some other people who just bore the hell out of me ! Either they can not communicate or they are just total idiots. Clone yourself and make some damn videos or I will be forced to stab my eyes out with a fret file to keep from watching other channels ! I really struggle watching anyone else as your traditional luthiery methods are why I watch ! If you or someone else can recommend someone who is not ( in the immortal words of "Red" from that 70's show) "a dumbass" I would appreciate it.
Is the wax being removed the Renaissance wax that in the last episode was touted as the finest finish available for this guitar?
+Jonto Dickens yeah :/ the client didn't like the look, we put pictures up of every single stage of the build and often change things to suit the customer.
One of the tricky things about oil finishes is the necessary patience needed for the oil to properly cure. I suspect this may have contributed to the finish turning dull over time, even with the Renaissance Wax. Fortunately, most of todays oil finishes are modified with polymers and drying agents so they are much easier to get great finishes, but if you rush the job, this is one of the things that happens. Been there, done that, more than once. Even though there is nothing more beautiful than a proper oil finish, they aren't as easy as everyone thinks, and take way more time than most people imagine.
This is such a lovely guitar, being spoon fed like this, the anticipation is killing me. Was this guitar ever finished?
Yeah, i seen it in one of his podcast episodes, i can't remember which one though
I'm going to use Tru-oil can I use the 0000 with that?
Hi there
what contains the "shellac bottle" that you use? what is shellac?
how can i remove the oil and leave only the stain to re apply some stain?
Argh you knob end lol. Watched the last video, ordered the wax, then I watch this lol
I personally thought the polished wax finish looked better. But the client is always "right".
i hate wire wool in finishing because you end up with little wire bits in your oil/varnish/whatever..... it upsets me
on second thought.... I might be applying the finish wrong
Ben watching these last few videos of your oil/wax treatment have been very enlightening as i move forward with my project. I have finished my 320 sanding and nearly ready for the application of dyes. I found a video accidentally that i think supports what you and Chris were explaining about using colored pigment rather than traditional grain filling..have a look if you have a minute: th-cam.com/video/epXzTe7vJng/w-d-xo.html
Also I was wondering why you decided NOT to use your CG finishing oil on this guitar??
Cheers, Matt B