Great video! I´ve been shooting bracketed shots for a lot of things recently, especially weddings with heavy backlight. While it works great to retain shadow quality, I really struggle with ghosting. Leafs, hair and sometimes even other smaller features like skin pores get completely lost and or mushy. I tried leaving out the highest overexposed shot (usually do 3x2exp, but tried 5x1exp and leaving the last one away) or just using the anti-ghosting function when merging, but the results are always... looking kinda bad. If i use the anti-ghosting, I get local noise and weird borders. Merging in general already costs me sharpness compared to a single frame, but adding these issues on top makes it almost undesirable to bracket. I don´t know if I´m just missing something, but manually adding back in portions of a single frame is a hassle when editing multiple images and the ghosting also doesn´t really get better with it - the loss of HDR ignored. Is this something you also encounter? Especially the detail loss because of movement between frames? I´d love to see some "how to take the frames" and pixel peeping at common mistakes and and or issues. While tutorials are immensely helpful, they always “require” you to already having eliminated other issues. So a "mistakes to avoid" video would be absolutely great! (Also maybe if there´s a difference between LR HDR merging and PS HDR merging - maybe my issue comes from there)
Sorry for the late response! I do encounter that when shooting in situations with lots of wind (gras and leafs are moving a lot during the bracketed sequence). During those conditions I try to avoid HDR or go with really, really fast shutter speeds so the movement will not be visible!
Hi Christian, wonder if you could help please. After I have cropped an image in photoshop then open it in Camera Raw, the image reverts back to the original size. This as only happened after the new upgrade. Am I doing some wrong.
I think it might has something to do with cropping a smart object layer? This would open the original sized raw file in the camera raw editor I would think edit; Maybe try to crop the image first. then rasterize the layer and then convert into a smart object for the camera editor
Raw files are usually ending in CR, HEF, etc. but you have to make sure your camera is set to capture RAW instead of JPEG. Then when you load the SD card, you just open the raw files using Lightroom, CaptureOne or whatever raw editor you want.
Love how never repeat yourself and get straight to the point. thanks !
Terrific!
Great video!
I´ve been shooting bracketed shots for a lot of things recently, especially weddings with heavy backlight. While it works great to retain shadow quality, I really struggle with ghosting. Leafs, hair and sometimes even other smaller features like skin pores get completely lost and or mushy.
I tried leaving out the highest overexposed shot (usually do 3x2exp, but tried 5x1exp and leaving the last one away) or just using the anti-ghosting function when merging, but the results are always... looking kinda bad. If i use the anti-ghosting, I get local noise and weird borders. Merging in general already costs me sharpness compared to a single frame, but adding these issues on top makes it almost undesirable to bracket.
I don´t know if I´m just missing something, but manually adding back in portions of a single frame is a hassle when editing multiple images and the ghosting also doesn´t really get better with it - the loss of HDR ignored.
Is this something you also encounter? Especially the detail loss because of movement between frames? I´d love to see some "how to take the frames" and pixel peeping at common mistakes and and or issues. While tutorials are immensely helpful, they always “require” you to already having eliminated other issues. So a "mistakes to avoid" video would be absolutely great!
(Also maybe if there´s a difference between LR HDR merging and PS HDR merging - maybe my issue comes from there)
Sorry for the late response! I do encounter that when shooting in situations with lots of wind (gras and leafs are moving a lot during the bracketed sequence). During those conditions I try to avoid HDR or go with really, really fast shutter speeds so the movement will not be visible!
Hi Christian, wonder if you could help please. After I have cropped an image in photoshop then open it in Camera Raw, the image reverts back to the original size. This as only happened after the new upgrade. Am I doing some wrong.
I think it might has something to do with cropping a smart object layer? This would open the original sized raw file in the camera raw editor I would think
edit; Maybe try to crop the image first. then rasterize the layer and then convert into a smart object for the camera editor
how to shoot HDR photo ?
You always use camera raw but never explain how you open a picture in camera raw.
Raw files are usually ending in CR, HEF, etc. but you have to make sure your camera is set to capture RAW instead of JPEG. Then when you load the SD card, you just open the raw files using Lightroom, CaptureOne or whatever raw editor you want.
Are you aware of search engines? Such videos are not meant to explain every minute detail, but to show you what's possible and how to do it.
To be honest, I just double click them or drag them into Photoshop