How to Replace Front Lower Control Arm 92-01 Toyota Camry
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
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New Control Arm from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ia/1ASF...
1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace failing, rusted, rotted, or damaged front lower control arms. This video is applicable to the 92, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 00, 01 Toyota Camry
🔧 List of tools used:
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/obG/1AX...
• 12mm Socket 1aau.to/or4/1AX...
• 17mm Socket 1aau.to/or4/1AX...
• 19mm Socket 1aau.to/oeZ/1AX...
• 21mm Socket 1aau.to/oeZ/1AX...
• 22mm Socket 1aau.to/oae/1AX...
• 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar 1aau.to/ocD/1AX...
• Ratchet 1aau.to/owE/1AX...
• Socket Extensions 1aau.to/or4/1AX...
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/ogA/1AX...
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/ofz/1AX...
• Jack Stands 1aau.to/ofE/1AX...
For More Info visit us at 1aau.to/h/Vs/
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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This video helped me a lot when replacing my passenger side lower control arm. On the front passenger side, the real challenge is the bolt that goes through the bushing. It bolts into a floating nut that's held into position with a little flange, but always slips. Always! Here's what I did to finally succeed. Clean up and grease up both the bolt and that floating nut and make sure the bolt goes in smoothly into the nut (before installing). When installing the lower control arm make this bolt is the first one to bolt on, as shown in the video. After pushing the control arm bushing into the mount (pry bar / mallet), I put a jack stand under the other end of the control arm to level the control arm as much as possible (and still have both hands free). Without the control arm being level, it's really difficult to put the bolt through. Instead of putting the bolt through right away, I used a 3/8" long extension to push through and line up the openings where the bolt is going to go. Thereafter I could finally put the bolt in. The bolt should now be going in reasonably easily, I used a stubby ratchet to slowly move it upward, meanwhile holding the nut by the flange to make sure the bolt catches it. It took me numerous attempts to line up the nut properly. Slowly tighten the bolt to not thread it. I then used a slim wrench to hold the nut while tightening the bolt. Once that was done, everything else was quite smooth.
He's making a significant mistake that I almost made myself. If you look closely when he shows the old and new control arms side by side, there is a small L-shaped bracket on the old control arm that MUST be transferred to the new. It slides over the aft end of the horizontal pin and the long bolt goes through it. Without this bracket the pin is not aligned correctly in the control arm and pinches the bushing, which would cause the bushing to wear out very quickly. The bracket also helps keep the bushing from sliding on the pin, although that's unlikely. Make sure you transfer this bracket to the new control arm before you throw it away like I did! Had to go the the pull-a-part to get another one.
Thank you for that! Can see it at 5:56 when they do the close up of the horizontal pin.
I was looking in all comments about this little shim-bracket. Thanks
This needs to go to the top comment or text amend the video
I know it's been a while, but how does one remove that part from the old control arm?
Hopefully you figured it out but if you have to drive a wedge or chisel between the bracket and the pin.
I have a 97 Camry and the Mechanic told me it wasnt worth them fixing my control ARM and Fuel Pump because it would cost over 1K$. Thanks to you, I am going to do it MYSELF in the Spring!!
Yea go to the junkyard too
Sounds like you need a different mechanic 😂
This is a great video. Instructions are clear and I like including the torque settings - thanks! One suggestion deals with inserting the control arm busing (about 6:28 on the video). In my 2001, the nut that the bolt goes into is not welded to the subframe. Instead it has a lip that bends around the edge of a a plate on the sub frame when tightening. It moves after removal and is a real bear to align. I suggest pulling it out, getting the bolt up through the hole so the bolt extends 1/8" above the sub frame (you need to do this by feel). Feel around with the nut to get it over the bolt and turn making sure the threads grab.
+John Mitchell Thanks for the feedback!
^ THIS. I am surprised they didn’t show what a pain that thing is…
This young tech did an excellent job narrating and demonstrating the procedure. Excellent.
+juanjohnism If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the part shown in this video on our website. Here's a link to them www.1aauto.com/control-arm/i/1aslf00079?TH-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
I now buy my parts from 1A auto because of the awesome and helpful videos, thanks guys.
+Chris Estrada Thank you for the positive feedback. We really appreciate it! If you have a minute, drop us a review on our Facebook page to let other people know about your experience with us. Here's a link: facebook.com/1AAuto/reviews/
Great Video! Perhaps it time permits: show the causes/ issues of the OLD control arm. Thanks
You are a life saver I was getting ready to pay a mechanic. This is so easy give you a update in a day!
+Glenn Flot Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Amazing how the jack stands turned into a lift
Thanks for this excellent tutorial. I did this job yesterday on my 98 Toyota Camry 2.2 Sport. It took me 4 hours! It was super tricky. I had the front on jack stands and trying to get at the nuts that hold the arm to the subframe is difficult and I used a long breaker bar to get them off. I had to heat up the 3 nuts at the hub to get them to move. There is a nut on top of the vertical bolt at the back of the arm and getting that to seat when fitting the new arm is not easy as there is no room to get ones fingers in. The hardest part is getting the 2 bolts to go back in to the subframe threads as for me they were slightly out of alignment. I had to be really careful here not to rush and damage the threads on the subframe as that would mean the car is a right off!.
I got them aligned by putting a large screw driver in the other bolt hole and using it to leaver the arm back so I could start the other bolt on to the thread. Phew! There is a big improvement in handling of the car now and I did have a slight pull to the left which has gone. I want to do the other side now!
The order I put the bolts back were the rear vertical bolt first, then the 2 bolts to the subframe, then the 3 bolts at the hub.
+Marky Mark Thanks for the tip!
Having same issue, lower ball joint disconnected too but still can't line up the 2 bolts that go into the subframe...
I was having trouble with one of the sub frame bolts also, until i did the one that i had got in, up tight, and that aligned the other one up perfectly. I have no idea why the nut on the rear vertical bolt isn't captive, would have made it so much easier.
Thank you this video was super helpful BUT it was definitely not as easy as you made it it was a straight pain in the behind
Did passenger side control arm and ball joint today on Son's 99 Camry (99,341 mi). Solid video, but... Tech made no mention of 1) 4:35 The nut on top of the rear bushing bolt. It will move when you back the bolt out and pry the control arm loose. Nothing anchors it. Have a magnet ready. Put it back in place (hold it there) during reassembly with the tab on it facing you, "lipped" over the bracket. 2) No mention made of the spacer clip that bolt goes through -- shown at 5:54 on the left side of the dog bone. You need it for the replacement control arm.
+SAL R Thanks for the feedback!
Looks so easy in the video. I had a little trouble getting the ball joint to bolt back in, then I had a bit of trouble getting that last bolt in the circular bushing. What a job. Got it done though. Thanks the vids. Much appreciate it.
+DJ Zach Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Just wanted to say thanks for making quality parts that fit like factory at a price that's really affordable. Just did a fronted rebuild on my buddy's gmc and everything fit right into place with no trouble. 1A will be my go to place for online vehicle parts!!
Thanks for the kind words. Glad to hear we could help you out. 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
Thanks to you guys I replace my struts and radiator my self .....Saved me so much money.....Thank you 1AAUTO greatly appreciate the content.
+Kevin Fenly Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thanks for the video, mate. Very methodical & informative. I suppose a wheel alignment would be necessary after this work, eh?
+Ed Straker Yes you should get the vehicle aligned one the repair has been performed. Hope this helps you out. Thanks for watching. 1aauto.com
One thing he didn’t mention was the lower control arm bushing in the rear has a top bolt nut that is a real pain to realign after reinstalling the bolt.
I just changed my lower control arm yesterday and it was a real pain to realign the bolt into that top nut.
Great video though.
God Bless yah for making this and all your other videos that you do. I'm just not financially able to pay mechanic fees. So I do it my self.🙏
+DOUG BROWN Thank you for the positive feedback. We really appreciate it! If you have a minute, drop us a review on our Facebook page to let other people know about your experience with us. Here's a link: facebook.com/1AAuto/reviews/
1A Auto Parts will do Sir
DOUG BROWN hey brother. When you did on your own. What was the reason changing it? Because I hit the sidewalk and my passenger side tire is keep moving and shaking. And my lower control arm was bended. I’m wondering if I change that one, do you think it will help?
@@gugagugadj4464 you have to replace control arm,inner outer tie rod and ball joint.
Do you have to re-align the car after replacing the lower control arms like you just did?
Thank you
Followed the video step by step
Very straightforward job
Lets see the outtakes with all the cussing.
Excellent demonstration and a very informative video. Top notch mechanics are worth paying for vehicle safety and reliability. Thanks again for an excellent video.
I bought the control arms a couple months ago and I was finally going to get around to doing on this evening but I was stymied a few weeks ago trying to get those lower bolts in the subframe out as mine does not break free with a breaker bar.
amazing. Im going to fix my car tomorrow
+Jack Smith Thanks for checking us out!
Very descriptive and informative video. Thanks for posting 1A Auto...
Do we need to alignment when we change the lower conttol arms?
Does it matter if u didnt put da spacer on from your old control arm ?? On the new control arm 5:43
What size bolt goes under the lower control arm .. mine fell out an can’t find a video we’re it says the size
Would you please reshoot the scene showing the front bushing aft stopper moved to the new part or insert a slide or note. The forward end has a ridge to maintain position but the aft does not. I know this is an older video but a customer brought me a car for alignment after following this video and the bushing stopper was left off. James
i agree the little bushing aft stopper comes off when disassembly in process and if you miss the position of it finding info or how it is placed is not easy to find the old control arm close up saved me but it isnt mentioned in the video or just about any where on the net.
Perfect educational video. Not too short or long. Well done.
Good video, I'm doing this to my 2015 Avalon however I do have a question, Do I need to lift both side of the car if I'm only doing one side? Thanks ✌ God Bless
Wished it was that easy for the 2nd gen scion xb. Do you guys have a video for my 2011 scion xb lower control arm? That would be great! Btw i just bought my parts from you guys.
I love the torque specs part I'm glad I bought the torque wrench
@8:30 approx-
-I recommend a way to put the vehicle weight on the control arm before tightening the bushing bolts so that the bushings natural resting state will be when the car is at its resting state. otherwise the bushings will be wound up when the car is at rest it may even try and lift the car during jounce bumps to unwind itself.
Thanks for the feedback! +Michael Dunagan
This vendor recommendation never ceases to puzzle me. How can you get to these bolts to torque them if the vehicle is on the ground, with the wheels mounted and no clearance for you to go underneath or manipulate a wrench?
@Michael Dunagan do u know if its not done that way you explained there might be an issue of squeaking?
@@wassimbejjani6793 exactly.
It is definitely not needed with this design of control arm. Use your common sense, look at the control arm and the bushings, and try to understand why is it not needed in this aplication. It doesnt matter when you torque fhe bolts because they don't compress any rubber. Both of the bushings are very free to move when torqued. Also, in the workshop manual it also says it is NOT needed to torque with the weight of the vehicle on the control arm. Don't spread misinformation.
Can a worn/bad front right lower control arm or bad bushings on it make a cars wheel alignment go to the right?
Thank u for explaining it throughout the process, u r great 👍👍✌
Having done all of this myself on the same car... from the floor, these bolts and nuts don’t come loose as easily as shown. A good demonstration video but not realistic from a garage mechanic point of view, but like I said... a great demonstration from 1Aauto as always. Yes, I use there parts on my 99 Camry.
+TODD CASTLE Thanks for checking us out and for the feedback. 1AAuto.com
I have a Camry 2004. It's the sale procedure for my car? Thanks for this video. Greetings from Argentina.
*It's the SAME...
After replacing the front lower control arm is it necessary to do an alignment????
How do you torque to certain foot pounds? I am going to fix my car myself, just don’t know how to do that.
You need a torque wrench which will have the foot per pounds on it. Adjust to the one you need and it will torque to the correct pounds. Good luck! +Shay M
Hello, How long does it take to replace both of them? I saw online this tip, is it true?
Installation Tip: To prevent premature bushing failure, make sure vehicle is on the ground before tightening frame bolts to torque specifications.
How is that even possible with the tire installed and no room underneath?
Realy good , thanks alot body 👍
+Sylvain Arseneault Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Love your videos, thank you for sharing.
HELLO 1A AUTO SHOULD I REPLACE THE CONTROL ARM FIRST OR THE BALL JOINT FIRST OR IT DOESNT REALLY MATTER THANKS
The ball joints are installed first. Thanks for watching. +Deo Nandkumar
I only got a 150 ft/lb torque wrench . Would it matter if I torque it to 150 instead of 152.
No, 150 will be good. You could give it a extra nudge with a breaker bar to lock it down a little more if you wanted. Can re-check it again after a couple hundred miles.
How do you know much to torque the nuts and bolts when reinstalling?
I have all bolts out except the rear bolt in the bushing. It’s seized. Penetrating oil isn’t working, along with my impact wrench, breaker bar, etc. I don’t have a sawzall to cut it out either. What can I do??? 🤷🏻♂️
Very thorough video. Could this help fix a clunky suspension? Last time I took mine in for an alignment they said they could not get it into spec due to worn out bushings but they didnt specify if it was the control arm bushings. So far I have replaced the control arms, sway bar bushings, rack and pinion, and struts, but the suspension still feels sloppy and it clunks over bumps. I am trying to decide whether I fix up my Camry for the winter or replace the old rust-bucket so I don't have to subject my GTI to the salty roads. I'm thinking strut mounts and control arms will fix my issues. Anyone have any advice?
I would replace the top strut's mounts
Thanks a lot, have to do that soon.
He magically got that rear bolt in no problem huh lol
This will be nearly the same for a 1998 Toyota avalon right...everything else is all the same usually
He didn't preload the suspension before torquing the bolts to spec.
I made this mistake and the big round bushings tore out in < a year.
Thank you. Very useful video. I have a question about Camry 08. Can I use the same torque pound as Camry 01? I have no idea how many torque pound needed on 08.
Is a front wheel alignment necessary after replacing the front lower control arms?
+NotesandStrings Yes you should get the vehicle aligned so that the tires do not wear out. 1aauto.com
NO. NO ALIGNMEN IS NECESARY WHEN REPLACING ANY CONTROL ARMS.... ONLY WHEN REPLACING TIE RODS (INNER OR OUTER) OR ROCK AND PINION
Im looking to do work on my suspension soon. Are there upper and lower control arm portions. I have seen the curved control arm, which look like these in the vids. The ball joints are due to be changed out too. Can't wait to work on the suspension.
only lower, only thing on the suspension is strut, control arm, one ball joint, hub and rotor, tie rods and maybe a sway bar (not on all model)
I like how you guys went from a lift to the floor🤣🤣
I am using a translator, I would like to know what the part where the forks are installed is called in English (the parts that are installed in the video), I want to know the name of the large part that supports the entire suspension, in Mexico we call it the front bridge , bed, spider, but in English language what do they call it? I want to change the whole piece and I am looking for an instructional video how to change it, since when removing it, the address box is anchored to this piece and I do not know how to do it. Thank you. it is a toyota corolla 2015. thanks!
+De todo un poko You may be referring to the driveshaft or front cv axles. We do not have a video on these installs for your Corolla at this time but we will add them to our list. Thanks for the question.
Thanks for the great video, halfway through this job on a 16 camry, though the majority of the design looks identical. I cannot for the life of me get the arm to line up with the bushing behind the hub now, even with all other bolts only just in. Has anyone else had this problem? Or have any potential solutions?
Too late MrLocksta45 to be of any help to you, but if others are facing similar problem, this is what I did. Get all other bolts loosely in place. The bolt that goes through the elongated hole is relatively easy to fit, compared with the bolt towards the front of the vehicle, because of the elongation. Tighten this bolt down just enough to hold the arm in place, but so that it can be 'nudged' this way or that a bit. A bar in the front bolt hole can be used as a lever to pull everything into alignment, with the control arm remaining where it is set because of the other (tight) bolt securing it.
How much is the left control arm
Possible same process for a 1998 sienna? Great video.
+ttxxdd We currently do not have an auto repair video specific to your vehicle. You might be able to apply some of the basic steps shown in this video to your application. Here is a link to the repair part that would fit your vehicle. www.1aauto.com/toyota-avalon-sienna-solara-control-arm-with-ball-joint/i/1asfk02113?f=1080328&y=1998 Hope this helps you out 1aauto.com
Thanks, for excellent explanation!!
I think I've got a problem with the small horizontal bushing right near the hub assembly the one that rotates with the control arm, would
It be easier to replace that bushing or the whole arm? Thanks.
+Sam Lyons Thanks for watching! You can just replace the ball joint if that is the issue, but you would be adding more steps. It is usually better to just replacement the entire assembly, and it can be purchased here: www.1aauto.com/control-arm/i/1aslf00079?TH-cam&CTA+Comment&DGPXvj5LRXE
You still have to remove the whole control arm, and need access to a press. For me, the pair of bushings was about $25, and a new control arm with new bushings already in it was $35, so I saved myself a little hassle and spent the extra $10.
Excellent Sir. Thank you God bless you!!..
Question : is 194 ft pounds or 294 ft pounds ? The torque wrench you sell up to 250 ft pounds
I'm curious as to why he recommends raising the entire car on 4 jackstands. I only have two, but could borrow another pair if it is important enough. Is it to keep things aligned or something or is it just safer/more convenient.
Thanks for the video, had a bad time at my usual alignment place where I have lifetime alignment, but another shop was able to identify the issue as worn bearings in the lower control arm. After watching this I'm confident I'll be able to do this on my 1999 Corolla.
EDIT: I also wish the 1999 corolla was as easy as it looks in this video. My lca is larger and I think the transmission pan or a transmission may impede access to one or two of the bolts. Haven't gone under there yet but based on another video this may be a difficult job.
Thank you for the feedback! +Jonathan West
@@1AAuto
Why don’t you answer the damn question, ding dong?!
Do a 99 Camry 3.0 le v6 have a upper control arm
When the video ends, you see a hand pointing at a silver part. No explanation in the video of what it is nor how to deal with the part on the car it is attached to. Pretty sure I figured it out correctly. I just reused the old one instead of dealing with an extra complication. Hopefully the torque specs applied to my 95 camry le 6cyl wagon too. Other than that this was a really great video.
What if the rear control arm bushing rotates with the 19 mm bolt when using a breaker bar so that it doesn’t break free it just turns with the bolt , going to soak in penetrating lube for the evening.
+Route66 That should help! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
How to remove the bolt on the driver's side that does not clear the transmission pan.
Wish my 03 Camry was this easy. Instead we have to raise the transmission and engine to remove the trans mount to get access to some bolts.
Forgot the aft spacer on the front bushing into the sub frame!
very good video well explained
Thanks for watching and for the comment! +Michel Jauvin
i thought i'd do research about this part before spending a thousand dollars at jiffy lube. not going there again. thanks so much
Ah, I actually went to a different repair shop to get a different opinion. They said they were fine and even showed me. They were just a bit aged
Silly question but does this procedure apply to models like CE, LE and XLE? I took a look at my LCA on my 1997 toyota camry XLE v6 and it looks quiet identical. I would like to know before purchase parts. I can probably do it myself. The procedure seems simple enough for a beginner like myself to do
+eatright909 It should be the same process on your vehicle. Here is a link to the control arms that we carry for your 97 Camry. Hope this helps you out. www.1aauto.com/1997-toyota-camry-front-control-arms/y-mo-c/1997-384-119?TH-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
Hi I replaced that same control arm and new ball joint on my 08' toyota Avalon. Now my steering feels really touchy and feels like the wheels are riding on the outer most edge of the tires. Almost feels unsafe to drive. Any idea what I might of screwed up? Did my Camber get thrown out of alignment? Thanks for your great videos.
+flytheater You may want to get the vehicle aligned
I know this is an old comment but I'm gonna leave this little note here for future readers:
If your car was previously-aligned with worn components, the alignment will most likely be off somewhat with new parts installed. It's generally considered a good idea to have an alignment performed any time suspension components are replaced.
We hit a huge pothole and I think the bushings on the drivers side control arms are shot...
The car shakes like crazy at 35mph now when on the gas... this has to be replaced anyway but could this be why it shakes?
+J⃟O⃟N⃟A⃟T⃟H⃟A⃟N⃟ S⃟C⃟H⃟U⃟L⃟T⃟Z⃟ It could be, You may also want to check the wheel to see it is also bend and any other suspension and steering components for damage. Hope this helps you out. We carry the control arm shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them. www.1aauto.com/control-arm/i/1aslf00079?TH-cam&CTA+Comment&DGPXvj5LRXE
J⃟O⃟N⃟A⃟T⃟H⃟A⃟N⃟ S⃟C⃟H⃟U⃟L⃟T⃟Z⃟ probably, the ring is hit too, let it turn in a wheel balancer.
He could have used power tools but besides that he did a great job 👍
Great video, thanks for posting. Would the car need to have the front wheel's aligned when done?
Often times you won't need an alignment after this repair. But any time you work on the suspension of your vehicle, you should at least have the alignment checked before you do much driving on it. Most shops will check it for free, so it's a good idea to just do it. Thank you for watching. Please let us know how the repair comes out! 1aauto.com?TH-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony 888-844-3393
Highly recommended, especially if the old arm was bent, and the alignment was adjusted to suit the bent arm. Regardless, there is some slack in the bolt holes, and alignment may change just by loosening and retightening the bolts.
I want that Camry! Oh wait, my 97 has had almost as much stuff changed out as that 98. Also my 97 does not have power windows to give fits later!
all 4 of my 20 year old windows and sunroof motor are original and still working in my 2000 XLE (it's been in the family since new). Denso in Japan is the OE supplier for all the electrical bits and they make very nice parts
I have a Toyota 2002 and the place I went to said it will cost me 1k to get booth side fixed. However $300 were quoted on parts and the rest were labor because they said they'll have to lift the engine and transmission in order to get to that? Does 1k to replace both side sounds like I am getting ripped off?
+DailyBread2007 It depends on the model and the recommended time that's allowed for the repair. 1aauto.com
Toyota control arms are about $150 each, so that's about right.
Real Satisfying vids - the Highlander's require lifting the engine to remove/loosen motor mounts because the forward bolt on the control arm in inaccessible with the motor mount in place. So yes you do have to raise engine on some vehicles.
Good job
Good job, but it would be much easier if you had a lift.
I just did my control arms and one big thing that they forget to mention in this video is that first screws that you start has a nut that is not welded onto the frame and they will move so you will struggle if you don't hold on to that nut so it does not move cuz it will..
Is this the same process for the corolla?
+Street Pineapple It may be a different procedure on your application. We currently do not have an auto repair video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking. 1aauto.com
3:07. Dude that was amazing. Lol. Cool.
+Johnathan Grey Thanks for watching! 1aauto.com
Didn’t reuse the little metal piece off the old control arm??
What about the spacer from the old control arm ?
Did passenger side control arm and ball joint today on Son's 99 Camry (99,341 mi). Solid video, but... Tech made no mention of 1) 4:35 The nut on top of the rear bushing bolt. It will move when you back the bolt out and pry the control arm loose. Nothing anchors it. Have a magnet ready. Put it back in place (hold it there) during reassembly with the tab on it facing you, "lipped" over the bracket. 2) No mention made of the spacer clip that bolt goes through -- shown at 5:54 on the left side of the dog bone. You need it for the replacement control arm.
@@HARRUMPH-SAL Good tips! Getting ready to do this exact same job on MY '99 Camry soon (control arms & ball joints). 352k miles currently!
Aren't we suppose to torque and tighten when the vehicle is on the ground?
Comments say it's not necessary per factory manual.
Love how they skip past the hardest bolt to put back on is the first one he puts back.
On 97 Camry there is a nut (position 2 on illustration) that often spins when removing the rear bushing bolt:
repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/1c/cf/bb/medium/0900c152801ccfbb.gif, threfore using 3/4" open end wrench on the nut may save some aggravation
Also, the lower ssupension bushing stopper usercontent1.hubstatic.com/8557684_f520.jpg (the arm to frame bolt on the left goes into it) has to be transferred form old to new arm or toe as well as caster setting might be effected
+mkrp4 Thank you for watching, as well as the advice. This will certainly help other viewers complete the replacement. 1aauto.com
My 2 bolts one longer and one shorter not lining up any tips? I'm dying here 😭
Do you mean they are not tightening up. Because I’m having the same issues
but how do you change the front lower bushing
You'd need a hydraulic press
yea i got it done ty
the bolt joint nuts and the contril arm were very tight
+Caesar Augustos Thanks for checking us out!
WHAT ABOUT THE STABLIER LINK?yoiu never made mention of it in your video
The videos don't at all show you the real bs you have to go through
Except i have a sway bar thats directly in the way of the control arm
It'd be nice to have a lift. Try doing it rolling around on the cold concrete floor! Anyway - thanks for this clear explanation.
+Flipclockfans Thanks for checking us out!
Lol were did the jack stands go????
+watchit4000 Thank you for watching. Upon removing the tires, we placed the vehicle on a lift to ensure the best view for our watchers. 1aauto.com
It is a mistake job. He didn't move a stopper from original parts of rear hole to new parts. Rear hole use longer bolt. It makes noise without stopper.
QUESTION ??? WHY JACKING THE HOLE CAR ON STANDS WHEN ONLY REPLACING ONE CONTROL ARM ?????????????????????????????? AND RIM CENTER CAP/HAB CAP ALLWAYS PLACING AN THE GROUND FACING UP TO PREVENT SCRACHING