I can't thank you enough for your videos of the AA series, all my models came out with defects and I didn't know why until I discovered AA but I didn't know how it worked at all, thanks to your videos now I understand and I am about to print some models with your advice, thank you very much.
This is a follow-up, I went over my AA settings in a previous episode. But this is what I currently use. Photon Mono X2 : AA Smooth Surfaces | 30% and 2 px radius Photon Mono 4K : AA Smooth Surfaces 50% and 2 px radius Photon M3 : AA Smooth Surfaces 30% and 2 px radius Photon Ultra and D2 : AA Smooth Surfaces 50% and 1 px radius So far this gives me the best result with the least actual visible lines. Sorry I forgot to add that to the description.
Thanks for the video. When I finally started getting reliable prints and always had anti aliasing off, I was afraid to try anti aliasing because I was scared to hurt the reliability of my prints. But I guess I should start trying it so this video might help.
Hey mate, just going through a few of your videos and not sure which one to watch/look in, but I am looking specifically for comparison between the new feature "High Definition Antialiasing" in Lychee, it turns my 5 min slice into a 30 min slice. Just wondering if its worth it or not? Cheers. Love the content.
Funny, we are doing a two part episode I am testing my settings with it on and off. Personally I think it makes a difference, and yes it makes slicing take longer and makes bigger files.
What support method are you using here? Can’t find how to make supports in line easy like you do. Or maybe you can point me on a video where you explain this?
This is called inline supporting. You add a support, hold shift and click to add the support anywhere on the same plane, it will create a line of supports from each one that you created. I am working on a new episode called "Getting the most out of Lychee Slicer" and I will cover this in that episode. Thanks for watching!
Hi! Thanks for all the info about the AA! I'm about to try these settings and see how they come out. I'm expecting them to improve a lot now that I have the knowledge about how this works! On the other hand, I'm very curious about how you add supports in a straight line by clicking on one end and then on the other and lychee adds evenly spread supports in that line. How can I do that? I haven't found the way.. thanks again!
Inline supports, simply click and add one support, then hold shift and add the support at the end of the line you want to create. It will show the dots where the support tips will appear.
hello, thanks for the video, I've seen a couple of your videos as I'm studying supporting my models and I'm curious on why you don't use the "projection supports" feature on lychee for flat surfaces using the face selection "surface crease" or "surface selection".. with the borders configuration, distance and pattern configuration it seems perfect and clean for any kind of flat surfacing support scattering.. is it bad? what are the downsides of using that feature? seems absolutely perfect for me but maybe I'm missing something..?
I do use it on bases on big flat things, but every time I do it makes the slicer software run real slow. Not sure if it is a memory leak or some issue there, but it does work, just it's a heavy process for some reason.
Do you know whether Lychee’s anti-aliasing works with Elegoo’s Mars 4 DLP? I’ve tried several different settings (using SirayaTech Fast Navy Grey, and printing at .030mm-table top minis) and I can’t, for the life of me see any differences in the prints. And the one with no AA takes the same length of time to print as the ones I used AA on.
Ah, this is an interesting one. I do not know if DLP printers really use AA at all. I have a Photon and a D2, neither of them see a difference in AA settings. Seeing as DLP works a bit differently than MSLA I think the aliasing just doesn't seem to make any difference. I am still testing some resins on this, and maybe if we start to see 12k resins or something even better quality we might see more of a change there. Thanks for watching.
You can't use both Sharpen and Smooth, but you can use Sharpen and smooth it using the grey offset. Smooth works best with big figures and parts, while sharpen seems to work best on minis.
The sharpen detail AA setting in the lychee online forms is saying this setting is a mix between smooth surfaces and contrast blur so I will now be testing this as I just use the smooth detail 40x 50% but had a very interesting read tonight online
@@IPrint3dMinis there isn't any evidence that it's air bubbles, nobody knows why it happens because it doesn't happen consistiently, it usually occurs at the top of domes but it usually doesn't so it's hard to test
The reason I call them bubbles is that they are usually round, and appear as you said on rounded areas and domes. It's quite annoying as it can cause things to fail.@@awildtomappeared5925
@@IPrint3dMinis I've never seen them cause anything to fail? it's always at the top of domes and small enough that you can just add a tiny drop of resin in and cure it to fix the print from my expirience
Colocas demasiados soportes... Basta solo unos cuantos soportes grandes en puntos estratégicos y listo... La misma forma de la estatua hace que la inclinación de sus formas se soporte caso por si misma, solo requiere de soportes sólidos en la zona de la base que toca la placa de impresión 50/50 me parece un desperdicio innecesario de resina
Not at all, we use enough "light" supports to cradle the object, rather than having pull points that increase the damage in those areas. Regardless of the model supporting itself, and even with these supports I had one had a hard layer line in it, so it shows that there is still a point of issue there and I personally would rather have 100 lights than 10 heavy as the heavy supports cause way more pulling and warping.
Interesting that Dennys Wang's anti-aliasing tests with Lychee seemed to give lackluster results. I wonder what role what type/brand of resin and printer play in the results one gets? th-cam.com/video/ynNBaX16FuQ/w-d-xo.html
I watched that one. I am using either my Mono 2, Mono 4K, or the Anycubic D2 for the tests. The D2 showed the least amount of change while the 4K and the Mono 2 as long as I am using 8K resin does make a difference. I think the bottom line is that if you are using the wrong combo of printer/resin and then the slicer can get into as well, it may make it seem that alias is doing nothing or little to nothing. With my experience it is, and I have done probably 7 videos talking about it, showing it, and testing it. Anycubic themselves have a totally different set of levels too, they are just set to 1, every printer I check the settings it just says "1". Lychee has different settings and they all seem to do the same or close the same thing with the exception of just turning AA off. You can use Sharpen, but that might actually make the edges harder, and give you more sanding, Smooth is good, but you gotta play with the levels to see what blur you want. Turning it off is fine for most stuff, especially with newer printers, but there is a difference, and it is more noted at lower layer heights, like 45 um and 35 um make a bigger change than just 50 um.
i like how you just TALK about AA settings but DONT SHOW ANYTHING.... its all just SUPPORTS........ thanks for that........ its like WAIT, WHAT? WHERE? HUH?....OH....NO SHOWN.....FML.....no wait... FYL !!. lmfao.
@@IPrint3dMinis Hey thanks for showing the supports. I am still learning and watching this helped me a lot. Then I learned more about Anti Aliasing. People just come on the internet to cry about anything. Keep up the good work.
Go ahead then, if you think you can do better. I will be here waiting. Still doing my content. Thanks for watching though "lol". Seriously, you think that I could wrap up AA with a short? Okay, seeing as I have made about 5 videos regarding AA settings and Lychee Slicer and seeing as it is one of the biggest and most frequent questions, no I doubt that. Thanks for the wonderful comment though, this community should be friendly so if you have nothing contributing or nice to say, please see your way out.
I can't thank you enough for your videos of the AA series, all my models came out with defects and I didn't know why until I discovered AA but I didn't know how it worked at all, thanks to your videos now I understand and I am about to print some models with your advice, thank you very much.
Glad I could help!
A section on your AA settings would have been helpful, considering that's what the video is supposed to be about.
This is a follow-up, I went over my AA settings in a previous episode. But this is what I currently use.
Photon Mono X2 : AA Smooth Surfaces | 30% and 2 px radius
Photon Mono 4K : AA Smooth Surfaces 50% and 2 px radius
Photon M3 : AA Smooth Surfaces 30% and 2 px radius
Photon Ultra and D2 : AA Smooth Surfaces 50% and 1 px radius
So far this gives me the best result with the least actual visible lines. Sorry I forgot to add that to the description.
Just stumbled across your channel. Sub'd and liked. Look forward to learning more about Lychee Pro. Thank you.
Welcome aboard! Check out the older videos, I am re-working a lot of the content too, especially since the software changes as often as it does.
Thanks for the video. When I finally started getting reliable prints and always had anti aliasing off, I was afraid to try anti aliasing because I was scared to hurt the reliability of my prints. But I guess I should start trying it so this video might help.
Awesome! AA settings can really make a difference on the finished piece.
Hey mate, just going through a few of your videos and not sure which one to watch/look in, but I am looking specifically for comparison between the new feature "High Definition Antialiasing" in Lychee, it turns my 5 min slice into a 30 min slice. Just wondering if its worth it or not? Cheers. Love the content.
Funny, we are doing a two part episode I am testing my settings with it on and off. Personally I think it makes a difference, and yes it makes slicing take longer and makes bigger files.
@@IPrint3dMinis ill keep my eye out, cheers =)
What support method are you using here? Can’t find how to make supports in line easy like you do. Or maybe you can point me on a video where you explain this?
This is called inline supporting. You add a support, hold shift and click to add the support anywhere on the same plane, it will create a line of supports from each one that you created. I am working on a new episode called "Getting the most out of Lychee Slicer" and I will cover this in that episode. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for your reply! Strangely Shift and adding support does nothing when i’m trying it. I guess maybe i’m missing something
Are you a PRO or free user?@@graffpov
Hi! Thanks for all the info about the AA! I'm about to try these settings and see how they come out. I'm expecting them to improve a lot now that I have the knowledge about how this works!
On the other hand, I'm very curious about how you add supports in a straight line by clicking on one end and then on the other and lychee adds evenly spread supports in that line. How can I do that? I haven't found the way.. thanks again!
Inline supports, simply click and add one support, then hold shift and add the support at the end of the line you want to create. It will show the dots where the support tips will appear.
hello, thanks for the video, I've seen a couple of your videos as I'm studying supporting my models and I'm curious on why you don't use the "projection supports" feature on lychee for flat surfaces using the face selection "surface crease" or "surface selection".. with the borders configuration, distance and pattern configuration it seems perfect and clean for any kind of flat surfacing support scattering.. is it bad? what are the downsides of using that feature? seems absolutely perfect for me but maybe I'm missing something..?
I do use it on bases on big flat things, but every time I do it makes the slicer software run real slow. Not sure if it is a memory leak or some issue there, but it does work, just it's a heavy process for some reason.
What layer height are you using 0.01 ? Or the normal 0.05 nm / microns
Normal 50um 0r 0.05mm
Do you know whether Lychee’s anti-aliasing works with Elegoo’s Mars 4 DLP? I’ve tried several different settings (using SirayaTech Fast Navy Grey, and printing at .030mm-table top minis) and I can’t, for the life of me see any differences in the prints. And the one with no AA takes the same length of time to print as the ones I used AA on.
Ah, this is an interesting one. I do not know if DLP printers really use AA at all. I have a Photon and a D2, neither of them see a difference in AA settings. Seeing as DLP works a bit differently than MSLA I think the aliasing just doesn't seem to make any difference. I am still testing some resins on this, and maybe if we start to see 12k resins or something even better quality we might see more of a change there. Thanks for watching.
@@IPrint3dMinis thanks for the reply. Keep up the great work!!
Thanks!
@@TheMoondougie I came here to ask the exact same question! How are you finding the Mars 4 DLP?
@@ericksonlawnsandgardens I wasn’t able to figure it out to my satisfaction. I’m returning it and going with a Mars 4 Max instead.
Is it both smooth and sharpen on the best? Can you combine?
You can't use both Sharpen and Smooth, but you can use Sharpen and smooth it using the grey offset. Smooth works best with big figures and parts, while sharpen seems to work best on minis.
@@IPrint3dMinis will try it as soon as the saturn 3 arrives.
@@eriksterlund Awesome, good luck with your prints.
The sharpen detail AA setting in the lychee online forms is saying this setting is a mix between smooth surfaces and contrast blur so I will now be testing this as I just use the smooth detail 40x 50% but had a very interesting read tonight online
try 2px smooth surface 0% hd on. The 'air bubbles' on the top is an solved phenomenon, nothing to do with AA
the air bubbles are a pain, but I have had them occur with many settings too, so not sure that will 100% solve the issues.
@@IPrint3dMinis there isn't any evidence that it's air bubbles, nobody knows why it happens because it doesn't happen consistiently, it usually occurs at the top of domes but it usually doesn't so it's hard to test
The reason I call them bubbles is that they are usually round, and appear as you said on rounded areas and domes. It's quite annoying as it can cause things to fail.@@awildtomappeared5925
@@IPrint3dMinis I've never seen them cause anything to fail? it's always at the top of domes and small enough that you can just add a tiny drop of resin in and cure it to fix the print from my expirience
I think you've used more resin in supports than the actual model.
Nah, it's about 50/50. They are all light too so they use little resin.
Colocas demasiados soportes... Basta solo unos cuantos soportes grandes en puntos estratégicos y listo... La misma forma de la estatua hace que la inclinación de sus formas se soporte caso por si misma, solo requiere de soportes sólidos en la zona de la base que toca la placa de impresión 50/50 me parece un desperdicio innecesario de resina
Not at all, we use enough "light" supports to cradle the object, rather than having pull points that increase the damage in those areas. Regardless of the model supporting itself, and even with these supports I had one had a hard layer line in it, so it shows that there is still a point of issue there and I personally would rather have 100 lights than 10 heavy as the heavy supports cause way more pulling and warping.
Interesting that Dennys Wang's anti-aliasing tests with Lychee seemed to give lackluster results. I wonder what role what type/brand of resin and printer play in the results one gets? th-cam.com/video/ynNBaX16FuQ/w-d-xo.html
I watched that one. I am using either my Mono 2, Mono 4K, or the Anycubic D2 for the tests. The D2 showed the least amount of change while the 4K and the Mono 2 as long as I am using 8K resin does make a difference. I think the bottom line is that if you are using the wrong combo of printer/resin and then the slicer can get into as well, it may make it seem that alias is doing nothing or little to nothing. With my experience it is, and I have done probably 7 videos talking about it, showing it, and testing it. Anycubic themselves have a totally different set of levels too, they are just set to 1, every printer I check the settings it just says "1". Lychee has different settings and they all seem to do the same or close the same thing with the exception of just turning AA off. You can use Sharpen, but that might actually make the edges harder, and give you more sanding, Smooth is good, but you gotta play with the levels to see what blur you want. Turning it off is fine for most stuff, especially with newer printers, but there is a difference, and it is more noted at lower layer heights, like 45 um and 35 um make a bigger change than just 50 um.
nvm you already did lol thanks!
We did. th-cam.com/video/DFZDvCR4Q6U/w-d-xo.html Check it out.
i like how you just TALK about AA settings but DONT SHOW ANYTHING.... its all just SUPPORTS........ thanks for that........ its like WAIT, WHAT? WHERE? HUH?....OH....NO SHOWN.....FML.....no wait... FYL !!. lmfao.
I show some and a talk about it, I have also talked about this in quite a few other videos, some that show more. Go check those out.
@@IPrint3dMinis Hey thanks for showing the supports. I am still learning and watching this helped me a lot. Then I learned more about Anti Aliasing. People just come on the internet to cry about anything. Keep up the good work.
@@ubernoob458 Thanks!
This could have been a 1 minute video. lol
Go ahead then, if you think you can do better. I will be here waiting. Still doing my content. Thanks for watching though "lol". Seriously, you think that I could wrap up AA with a short? Okay, seeing as I have made about 5 videos regarding AA settings and Lychee Slicer and seeing as it is one of the biggest and most frequent questions, no I doubt that. Thanks for the wonderful comment though, this community should be friendly so if you have nothing contributing or nice to say, please see your way out.