Good evening, not all the videos I do are intended to be step by step how to / instructional content. Sometimes I just go over the process a bit and branch off on a particular topic, in this case "grease". Although sometimes I do get into more detailed info, tech tips etc. I'm by no means a dedicated "TH-camr", I run a full time shop and do these videos for promotional content, a channel to vibe in to vintage audio, and again, to share some info, tech tips etc., These videos / my style isn't for everyone, nonetheless, thanks for chiming in, my best to ya 🙂
@@retroelectrotech sorry if I sound a bit too critical. Was hoping to see more detail about inside of this turntable model. There are still many helpful tips how to take it a part....etc
Good afternoon, great video. I have a Technics SL-QX300 that I got from my dad and the problem that I have is the tonearm not completely coming down on the record. Is there anything I should be on the lookout for, or how would you go about trying to figure out where the problem lies?
Good afternoon, depending on how comfortable you are with disassembly, you'll have to gain access from the underside to evaluate the cueing mechanism to see if anything is bound up, which is what it appears to be. Perhaps the damping grease is very degraded and is causing the mechanism to stick, or perhaps there is another issue / defect with the mechanism. It's difficult to guide somebody through the procedure in a written message, as that's one of those hands on / visual kinda things. You may want to try to obtain the service manual for the unit and familiarize yourself with the mechanism and how to gain access to it. I'm sorry I can't be of more assistance, but like I said, it's a little tough to explain it.
Good afternoon, that might be a little more difficult to answer without the benefit of "examination". But for starters, what does the tonearm do when You press the start button, is there any sign that the mechanism and arm are trying to engage / work, or is there nothing at all? I assume the platter will rotate momentarily when You first press start? Also You obviously know You need to have an album on the platter when testing auto play. Otherwise, You can manually lift the tonearm and set it down on the album, which should also start platter rotation as You move the arm toward the start position. If the electrical / electronic aspect of the turntable appears to be functioning, i.e. the platter is rotating normally, then it is probably a mechanical issue. That being said, You can try to begin at the start / stop button and check to see if anything is "sticking / bound up". From there follow that "start / stop" rod from the button to the "auto-mechanism plate" and check for movement of that rod and whether or not there appears to be something stuck. I'll stop here, because if You need to assess the auto-mechanism beyond that point, it could get a bit more involved and require "teardown / disassembly", which if not done correctly can complicate things further, let me know what You find, if You decide to mess with it.🙂
Dude….. i get it, your a professional. But people watching this aren’t. You might want to take the time to teach how you removed the shit you removed. We ate NOT MINDREADERS
I'm sure you are competent and do a good job, but this video is way to long.Too much repetition. This 21 minute video, should be cut down to 8 minutes.
I would have been fine with an hour or more. As a hobbyist, I take a lot from these videos. Repetition, i.e. "reps" are helpful in retaining what is being taught...
I have a Technics SL-QD33, that was stored away several years ago. Got it out 2 weeks ago and set it up and it started playing fine. Tried to play it today and all it is doing is flashing the start/stop button. If I try to manually engage it, the arm has resistance and it returns right back to the arm rest, the table never spins. One thing I did notice is the arm does not touch the arm rest, it hovers above it, like maybe it never fully returned to the off position when last used. Opened it up and did not notice any bulging caps or obvious burned components. Any advice on where to start looking? I live in a small town with no repair business' anywhere near. Thanks
Good afternoon, about the best advice I can give without "popping the hood" and evaluating the mechanisms etc. is as follows: a common problem is degraded factory lubricants which cause the mechanisms to "bind up" or otherwise move along their normal ranges of travel sluggishly. Based on what You are describing, You may want to take a look in the area of the tonearm drive motor, specifically the shaft / worm drive gear and the gear wheel / assembly that it operates. try to carefully rotate that assembly in an effort to "break it free". Over time, that area is notorious for seizing up or getting very sluggish and will cause such problems. As recommended in this video ( and others), it's wise to photo document every step of disassembly, as well as sketch out diagrams as needed (no matter how crude), because it will make Your life easier when it comes time to reassemble. You should be able to access the area I advised (from the bottom) without much difficulty. If You find that area to be the problem and depending on how far You feel You can go, it would be a good idea to clean that it with some swabs and alcohol to remove old lubricant and dirt etc.. then apply a thin layer of white lithium grease. Again, keep the application thin and don't use a heavy grease that is too thick / viscous. Anything beyond what I described will require more disassembly and may get a bit involved, so, proceed carefully. lastly, be sure to unplug the unit when servicing. Hope this helps.
@@retroelectrotech appreciate the reply. I was taking it apart while waiting on your reply. I got to the worm gear assembly area. When trying to rotate that, the larger arc shape gear, should it turn freely? I tried just turning that part with hopes that it would spin the worm gear and free it up if needed. But, the only way to turn that worm gear was to put small needle nose pliers on the shaft and turn it that way, which it did turn. But the larger arc gear either wasn't supposed to move very much or was seized. As far as lube, I don't have the proper kind on hand so I didn't mess with it. But it did look wettish almost like an thin oil and not dried up. Right now is hard for me to mess with it since I just got home from having shoulder surgery. I appreciate what you do here.
@@wolfsmane At this point in time, no need to mess with the large main gear. As long as the tonearm motor, worm drive gear and the smaller gear wheel that sits between the worm gear and the main gear appear free, then that's a good place to start. When You can apply a thin layer of white lithium grease, give that a try and see if that improves the situation. If not, it's going to get a bit more involved of course. Keep me posted and just be careful with those plastic parts. Hope that shoulder heals up well 🙂
![เบิ้ล ปทุมราช - สาวสอง ( มีมี่ของอ้าย ) ft. ตาต้า,ต้องเต [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/mqlMjnP08XI/mqdefault.jpg)
Was hoping to see more detail about tone arm automatic mechanism
Good evening, not all the videos I do are intended to be step by step how to / instructional content. Sometimes I just go over the process a bit and branch off on a particular topic, in this case "grease". Although sometimes I do get into more detailed info, tech tips etc. I'm by no means a dedicated "TH-camr", I run a full time shop and do these videos for promotional content, a channel to vibe in to vintage audio, and again, to share some info, tech tips etc., These videos / my style isn't for everyone, nonetheless, thanks for chiming in, my best to ya 🙂
@@retroelectrotech sorry if I sound a bit too critical. Was hoping to see more detail about inside of this turntable model. There are still many helpful tips how to take it a part....etc
@@guimagie no problem, take care and best wishes with your future audio projects.
Good afternoon, great video. I have a Technics SL-QX300 that I got from my dad and the problem that I have is the tonearm not completely coming down on the record. Is there anything I should be on the lookout for, or how would you go about trying to figure out where the problem lies?
Good afternoon, depending on how comfortable you are with disassembly, you'll have to gain access from the underside to evaluate the cueing mechanism to see if anything is bound up, which is what it appears to be. Perhaps the damping grease is very degraded and is causing the mechanism to stick, or perhaps there is another issue / defect with the mechanism. It's difficult to guide somebody through the procedure in a written message, as that's one of those hands on / visual kinda things. You may want to try to obtain the service manual for the unit and familiarize yourself with the mechanism and how to gain access to it. I'm sorry I can't be of more assistance, but like I said, it's a little tough to explain it.
awesome intro! how did you get that voice?
Thank You, it's my "radio voice" ;-) Thanks for chiming in, have a nice day / weekend.
How would I fix the auto start? Great vid btw
Good afternoon, that might be a little more difficult to answer without the benefit of "examination". But for starters, what does the tonearm do when You press the start button, is there any sign that the mechanism and arm are trying to engage / work, or is there nothing at all? I assume the platter will rotate momentarily when You first press start? Also You obviously know You need to have an album on the platter when testing auto play. Otherwise, You can manually lift the tonearm and set it down on the album, which should also start platter rotation as You move the arm toward the start position. If the electrical / electronic aspect of the turntable appears to be functioning, i.e. the platter is rotating normally, then it is probably a mechanical issue. That being said, You can try to begin at the start / stop button and check to see if anything is "sticking / bound up". From there follow that "start / stop" rod from the button to the "auto-mechanism plate" and check for movement of that rod and whether or not there appears to be something stuck. I'll stop here, because if You need to assess the auto-mechanism beyond that point, it could get a bit more involved and require "teardown / disassembly", which if not done correctly can complicate things further, let me know what You find, if You decide to mess with it.🙂
Dude….. i get it, your a professional. But people watching this aren’t. You might want to take the time to teach how you removed the shit you removed. We ate NOT MINDREADERS
It wasn't that type of video, however, I didn't specify that, so thanks for Your input nonetheless, have a good day.
I'm sure you are competent and do a good job, but this video is way to long.Too much repetition. This 21 minute video, should be cut down to 8 minutes.
Noted, and thank You for the feedback.
I would have been fine with an hour or more. As a hobbyist, I take a lot from these videos. Repetition, i.e. "reps" are helpful in retaining what is being taught...
I have a Technics SL-QD33, that was stored away several years ago. Got it out 2 weeks ago and set it up and it started playing fine. Tried to play it today and all it is doing is flashing the start/stop button. If I try to manually engage it, the arm has resistance and it returns right back to the arm rest, the table never spins. One thing I did notice is the arm does not touch the arm rest, it hovers above it, like maybe it never fully returned to the off position when last used. Opened it up and did not notice any bulging caps or obvious burned components. Any advice on where to start looking? I live in a small town with no repair business' anywhere near. Thanks
Good afternoon, about the best advice I can give without "popping the hood" and evaluating the mechanisms etc. is as follows: a common problem is degraded factory lubricants which cause the mechanisms to "bind up" or otherwise move along their normal ranges of travel sluggishly. Based on what You are describing, You may want to take a look in the area of the tonearm drive motor, specifically the shaft / worm drive gear and the gear wheel / assembly that it operates. try to carefully rotate that assembly in an effort to "break it free". Over time, that area is notorious for seizing up or getting very sluggish and will cause such problems. As recommended in this video ( and others), it's wise to photo document every step of disassembly, as well as sketch out diagrams as needed (no matter how crude), because it will make Your life easier when it comes time to reassemble. You should be able to access the area I advised (from the bottom) without much difficulty. If You find that area to be the problem and depending on how far You feel You can go, it would be a good idea to clean that it with some swabs and alcohol to remove old lubricant and dirt etc.. then apply a thin layer of white lithium grease. Again, keep the application thin and don't use a heavy grease that is too thick / viscous. Anything beyond what I described will require more disassembly and may get a bit involved, so, proceed carefully. lastly, be sure to unplug the unit when servicing. Hope this helps.
@@retroelectrotech appreciate the reply. I was taking it apart while waiting on your reply. I got to the worm gear assembly area. When trying to rotate that, the larger arc shape gear, should it turn freely? I tried just turning that part with hopes that it would spin the worm gear and free it up if needed. But, the only way to turn that worm gear was to put small needle nose pliers on the shaft and turn it that way, which it did turn. But the larger arc gear either wasn't supposed to move very much or was seized. As far as lube, I don't have the proper kind on hand so I didn't mess with it. But it did look wettish almost like an thin oil and not dried up. Right now is hard for me to mess with it since I just got home from having shoulder surgery. I appreciate what you do here.
@@wolfsmane At this point in time, no need to mess with the large main gear. As long as the tonearm motor, worm drive gear and the smaller gear wheel that sits between the worm gear and the main gear appear free, then that's a good place to start. When You can apply a thin layer of white lithium grease, give that a try and see if that improves the situation. If not, it's going to get a bit more involved of course. Keep me posted and just be careful with those plastic parts. Hope that shoulder heals up well 🙂