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Yes indeed, I'm in "Skow-Vegas". At this time I don't have anything for sale, I have some equipment I will eventually be restoring for sale, but as with everything it comes down to time. Working solo in this shop with such a big workload makes it difficult to get it all done :-) Nonetheless, thanks for your inquiry, have a fine day.

Good morning, when the display comes up for sale, you will probably find it available from someone who has "pulled" one from a "donor unit". As you may already be aware the auction sites (eBay etc.), and surplus dealers is where you might came across a display which is where I obtained the one in the video (AW Electronics in Ontario Canada), which was just by chance, i.e., they happened to have one when I needed one :-). If I remember correctly, the display was produced by Sharp, and I can't remember the model / board # etc. The synth in the video was not mine, so, I can't pull any info off of the part. There happens to be one listed as I post this comment, it's listed on eBay, and I have nothing to do with selling it, I just ran across it while searching. The seller looks to be in good standing, good feedback etc., so, there ya go. As far as the price, well, they don't appear to come up for sale at a "cheap" price, so, sometimes you just have to do the deed and pay up or wait it out for a better deal. Otherwise, my best to you. Roland JV-80 Display: www.ebay.com/itm/166792228691?_skw=Roland+JV-80+display&itmmeta=01JDA00ZEVR52T8FVA6WFCSC2H&hash=item26d5976f53:g:NwcAAOSwTAVmV560&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKlKZtru30eB%2Ba2kBOpfSH%2FHCeI9kAe3L2Ks2y46rhEKl39OiLnclFWCI60hPslsZ57QvVv7cNW53xQ2iMqIRjIxC1gqZYjVT12dUCY8GVJfFPQqD94GAIG4vOv5gNjSrmnw2h8yU3ZQ10hrHWDJJKGIjD5D2CzS6%2FhxWnaSnbtCl%2FBCB%2F2ENH7Rt8UoxpMQ6%2FvePyMIqg4hozkrONVruxJKgK%2FGeqoq6AxVhv2PbL8E%2FnqKt6OJSycICDBBh%2Fk%2Fic0%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8D3g8DqZA

Yeah, it's an odd duck of sorts, but Philco ran with that design in all their wisdom. Maybe there was an ugly red-headed step-child in the Philco family who insisted on an ugly-esque record changer, although its looks are growing on me a bit, like last call when the women at the bar start looking better then they did when the night was younger ;-) Anyway, thanks for chiming in, my best.

Hello there and pardon the delay in getting back to you, I've been very busy,. If you are looking for a needle and cartridge (or just needle) you can go to the "V-M Audio Enthusiasts" website (just look them up). The cartridge I used was part # EV5632-Uni-DS73 and the needle (stylus) is part #M853-DS73. I hope this info gets you on the right track.

Hello there and pardon the delay, as far as the 3 bulbs I use in my current limiter / dim bulb tester. I vary around a bit as needed. I have a 40, 60 and 100 in there currently and I have a bunch of other bulbs (smalIer and larger wattage) I use when I just want to use a specific wattage filament or combination thereof depending of course on how much current I want to limit to a device under test (i.e., stereo receiver , amp, etc.)

Hello there and pardon the delayed response, most of those types of turntables use a circlip / eClip ( a semi-circular clip in other words) that will usually slot (clip) into a small indented groove / ring at / near the base of the spindle. You can usually just get a small tipped flat (standard) screwdriver and pry the clip out of that indentation I'm referring to. You may have already figured this out, I know it's been a while, I've been extremely busy. Nonetheless thank you for the inquiry, I wish you the best.

Thank you, everything works but seems to be a gear or two off because I can’t get the automation to work smoothly. Do you know anyone in California that works on these?

@@bloodymayhem1 Hello there, been awhile since I've been in California (born and raised in L.A). Most, if not all of the shops I knew of are no longer in business / owners retired / passed on etc. Plus with the "technological" changes over the decades, not very many "full time brick n mortar" techs are "holding the line" anymore. You can give Classic Audio Repair a call in San Diego, perhaps that may be of some help? Yes, sometimes those mechanisms can cycle roughly etc., if there is something out of alignment or otherwise installed incorrectly. I'm sure you'll get it figured out / serviced eventually, it sounds like you are close to getting it done, my best to you :-)

Yes, they are nice , thank you for chiming in 🙂

6:07 p.m. Clean the SERVO CONNECTIONS with DeOxit D5

Good afternoon, I would say that for the few interested in watching some of my video content, they probably don't lose much sleep over anything I do on this channel, or whether I "pluralize" what I'm saying, who I'm saying it to or if I "UMM UMM" too many times for their liking. I have zero aspirations to run a full-time monetized channel, or emulate other peoples channels, personalities etc. This channel is mainly for having a web presence, i.e., give prospective customers another means to check out the shop / the work I do, vibe in on the vintage audio and just follow along for those interested in that kinda thing. Otherwise, yes, nothing for any real human beings with lives to lose any sleep over. Otherwise, take care.

Hello there, I'm not sure if I mention anything about navigating the wires?, can't 'recall. Nonetheless, I'll make mention of something that may help. Make or buy some wire identifiers, i.e. wire labels and label the wires needing removal in whatever sequence that works for you. Usually if the posts on the board/s are marked 1,2,3,4 etc., then you want the wire labels to correspond with their designated post / termination. Then, if you have a wire wrapping / unwrapping tool/s you could neatly start unwrapping selected marked wires and "liberate" the board from them if you prefer or need to. I'm not going to address the specific use of wire wrapping tools, as I'm sure there are plenty of how to videos on that topic. So, as you can see, it's as straight-forward as labeling your wires to "MATCH" their termination points so you know where to return them. Another side note before I move to the finish line: You may need a few different sizes of wire wrap / unwrap tools based on the wire size of course, so, just something to keep in mind and no big deal otherwise. In fact, you technically don't need wire wrap tools. Sometimes I just carefully "untwirl" the wire from around the post to loosen and remove it. If you do it that way, just make sure the wires are long enough to provide some slack, so you can re-strip and re-twist a new connection point as needed. Sometimes you'll break the old coil of wire as you try to untwist it. Additionally you may need to heat up / de-solder some of the wire wrapped terminals that have been soldered upon during previous repairs etc. As far as getting the wires back on, just re-wrap them on the posts neatly. Again just find some information on using a wire tool (easy enough) and then re-secure good "bomb proof" connections of the wires and posts. A lot of times you can just re-twist the wire around any type of shaft, i.e. a small punch, or my spring hook that gradually tapers from smaller to larger, so I can "eye-ball" an inner diameter slightly bigger than the post diameter. Then you can just push the coil over the post and neatly solder the joint (fill in the gaps between the coils and post) and establish another secure connection. So, there's enough info to hopefully get you going / thinking about what technique/s you want to work with. Lastly, and in some cases, if you can get creative with circuit board positioning / securing, you can carefully gain access to needed components and work on boards without having to remove all the resident wiring. You just need to be aware and careful not twist the wiring around too many times and too aggressively. If wires start popping off and you don't know where they go, things will get a bit more time consuming, so, you may still opt to mark the wires, in case of a "pop loose event", or just be very careful / attentive when moving boards with attached wiring. Again, hope this helps, my best to you.

@@retroelectrotech Thank you for informing me. Must admit, did know about this tool. I will do the labels and take lots of pictures, and try to replace parts without the tool. If not working I will invest in the tool. Thanks again.

Yes indeed they are nice solidly built amps that mean business, and the big "dancing" meters are a thing of beauty. Thanks for chiming in and keep enjoying that 508!

Hello there, the simple explanation is that the right and left source / signal information is being combined / summed together (when in mono) and your hearing the result of that from both speakers because the main amp sections (both right and left sides) are working fine and are not the problem. So the problem is before the main amp section in other words. Without me being able to examine the unit on the bench I can't narrow down the problem of course, however, I would suggest you check the selector / mode switch contacts as well as the mono switch itself. More than likely it's a connection issue involving one or both switches due to dirty / tarnished contact points. I'd start with giving them a thorough cleaning with contact cleaner while "exercising" the switches over and over again. Check for loose wiring and bad solder joints as well. While you're at it, clean and exercise all the switches and potentiometers. beyond that, I can't really walk you through diagnostics over the net / in a comment section / via email due to the lengthiness of it all. But again, do check all of your wiring / connections as needed from the CD inputs to the selector switch, as well as the mono / stereo switch and make sure everything (all switches / controls) are flush cleaned and thoroughly worked / exercised as I mentioned. I hope this helps you out.

@@retroelectrotech Thank you for taking the time to answer with great advices. Ill give it a go and tell you!

I didn't progress any further on that unit following the video. Sometimes that's how it works out with customer equipment. So, I don't have that information available, sorry. I'm sure if you search for a "belt kit" via make and model you'll come up with some options for belts. As far as the idler tire you are seeking to replace, you may not necessarily find a replacement that cross references to that make and model, however, if that proves to be the case, you can take measurements of the tire (using a dial caliper for example) and make some comparisons against some other idler tire offerings available. It takes some hunting around at times.

very true when it's customer equipment and there's bills to pay / lights to keep on, have a fine day, thanks for chiming in.

I'm sure you'll get a lot of enjoyment out of it, take care and thanks for chiming in.

Good to hear they're getting some enjoyment out of it 🙂

No offense taken, There were a few things I did off camera, cleaning the relay contacts was one of them, and yes sir I forgot to mention it, which I sometimes do when there's a lot going on etc. At the end of making the video, I ended up having to replace one of the the Darlington Packs (STK0050), it was producing some very intermittent noise. That of course didn't make it to the video either. As far as going any further with replacing the regulator, or anything else, I just wanted to get this thing cleaned up and resolve the "channel issue" so I could get it back to the customer. Thank you for bringing up the info concerning the voltage regulator, that's good advice / good info. Again, I appreciate you chiming in.

I practically had to hose it down, it sure was dirty enough. I got in there with some small brushes and a "micro" vacuum tip to get all the looser stuff sucked out, then I followed up with 99.9% anhydrous alcohol "misted" onto the boards and then brushed off. Otherwise, thanks for chiming in have a great day !

Perhaps in the not so distant future I'll do the tour, thanks for chiming in with that suggestion, have a nice day 🙂

Hello there, Hopefully I can explain it in a manner that describes the process clearly. Reach your index or middle fingers (whatever feels right to you) under the rim of the holes off to the sides (lateral) of the center spindle, and place your thumbs over the top of the center spindle. With your thumbs, you're going to push down slightly while you pull up the platter with your other fingers at the same time in one motion. That should "pop" the platter off. Just don't push down on the spindle with brute force, the thumbs are positioned as such just to steady the process and give you leverage. Hope that helps 🙂

My pleasure, thanks for the comment.

My pleasure, I'm glad you enjoyed some of the info. The 771 you just finished up is another fine receiver. Sansui is right up there with my favorites. Thanks for chiming in, I'll check out your channel and see what you got going on. Till next time, take care Trevor.

Hello there, I'm currently working on sourcing some quality cartridges / parts etc., after which I'll be resuming re-assembly, testing, adjustments and so forth. Thanks for chiming in and enjoy your upcoming restoration as well, have a fine day 🙂

Sí, normalmente funcionará bien ya que no hay una gran diferencia entre 8 y 6 ohmios. Sin embargo, tenga en cuenta que con altavoces de ohmios más bajos (6 ohmios), la sección de salida/los transistores de salida consumirán más energía. Por lo tanto, existe una mayor posibilidad de que los transistores de salida/sección del amplificador se calienten y tengan que disipar más calor. Si no lo usas continuamente a un volumen muy alto, no debería haber ningún problema. Incluso cuando se usan parlantes de 8 ohmios a volúmenes altos durante largos períodos de tiempo, el amplificador se calentará más que si se usa a niveles de volumen más reducidos. Además, mantenga los valores de potencia coincidentes (dentro de lo razonable) entre la potencia de salida del amplificador y los altavoces. No querrás dañar los parlantes que no tienen suficiente capacidad de manejo de energía, especialmente cuando escuchas música a niveles de volumen "altos". En otras palabras, algunas de estas cosas son de sentido común, espero que esto ayude, que tengas un buen día.

Tengo esos archivos guardados en formato PDF en mi computadora, deberás enviarme un correo electrónico y te responderé con los archivos adjuntos. Mi dirección de correo electrónico es ernest@retroelectrotech.com Intentaré entregártelos lo antes posible, pero puede que tarde unos días porque estoy muy ocupado en la tienda en este momento. De lo contrario, que tengas un buen día.

Hope you're able to track down the problem, so, many things that can produce static.

Glad to hear you got it resolved with some clean up. Thanks for chiming in, have a nice day 🙂