I love all the armchair bros with their expert “you should’ves”. Tony has forgotten more than all of us combined. Thank you Tony for these videos with expert explanations. Long time subscriber.
Back in 1986 or so I bought my first CD player. I sold my best friend my ~100 album collection. Cut to around 2005 and I took the leap and went all digital (yes, CDs are digital, I guess I mean all...electronic? FLAC and MP3 for smaller portable devices...no, I am NOT an audiofool, I am a music enthusiast :-) )and sold the same guy my ~500 CD collection for one hell of a good deal. Talking to him a few months ago by phone (I am now in IN, he is still in FL) we were talking music and our systems and I told him how I got back into vinyl. He asked me if I wanted my albums back. I need to head to FL soon! Nothing like a best bud!
Wow and you got when it was new and glad you still have . You should look up the turntable and check technics turntable chart and when it came out and the specs. I have the brother of this one and the SL 1400 and I believe they also made the SL 1500. And I think came out in 77.
Wow! I have the utmost regard for you and the time you spent on this video. I am also impressed. I did own a Lynn Sondeck about 50 years ago. I will be receiving an Oracle turntable soon and wanted to learn more about turntables. Thank you very much I am impressed.
Really great video, I've always had vinyl contact but I never messed up too much. A few years ago I started to really get interested in vintage equipment and quality records like Sl-1300 and others. I really do a lot of research on the subject, and here in Brazil there is a lot of content but never detailed in this form of your video, after graduating Technician in electronics I started to repair some devices and even have some restoration projects. I have a lot of passion for vinyl, your video is excellent, rich in details, and you explain very well about the procedures performed, I really liked it, congratulations!!
Dear Tony! Your videos are always great and a pleasure to look at. I learn so much. You answer the questions I have, and do it clearly. This is by far the best turntable adjustment video I've ever seen, showing the things others tend to omit (like what is the point of counterweight adjustment ring - and how it can be used, if it is not attached to the counterweight). But the biggest AHA moment for me here was your cleaning of the pots - I've managed to "loosen" so many pots when cleaning them, and it gets very annoying (being on a guitar, when they "turn by themselves" when playing, or on audio equipment, when they just feel cheap turning without any resistance). Often people just spray some Deoxit in the proximity of the pot and hope some of it comes to the right place. It's nice to see somebody does it properly and thoroughly. From the things I already know I can always see that your vids are the ones which can be trusted in the things I don't know yet - TH-cam being full of different "shortcuts" and "inventors" doing things, which should not be done - or maybe just collecting likes and Patreon subscribers; various "modders" butchering electronic stuff and such. Keep the great work! Peace and all good!
Hey thanks for making this video. Very well done and informative. I knew most of this information. But it was really nice as a refresher before working on a similar turntable. You gave me the confidence to tackle a similar set-up I might not have tried.
Hi Tony, If you want to hear exactly what is recorded on the disc, try Denon DL103. This is a fairly inexpensive moving coil cartridge. But its output signal is only 200 μV. Before the phono stage, a transformer or a special preamplifier (so-called head-amp) must be inserted: completely linear and with extremely low noise. This head-amp also matches the very low output impedance of the cartridge (30 ohms) with the high input impedance of the phono stage (47 kohms). I tried different options and settled on a Yamaha C4 head-amp. My phono stage was developed by a Russian specialist, my old friend. Moreover, we are both professional sound engineers and we know very well what the sound should be like;). Sincerely, Alexander Moscow, Russia
I need to replace the cartridge on my father's SL-1300 and this was the perfect video to help with that. I bookmarked it for future use, if anything else needs replacing. Thank you so much for taking the time to make it!
What an amazing tutorial; I gained far more knowledge than I had anticipated. I sincerely appreciate it. What a fantastic or amazing video, well explained. THANK YOU!
One thing to point out, when records are cut, they are cut tangentially to the center of the record. As you mentioned a tone arm a swings in an arc. So the arc of the tone arm creates tracking error relative to the straight line of the cutting head, which causes distortion. That is why alignment matters. Good suggestion on vinyl engine.
I replace those worn rubber feet with round felt ones designed for chair's feet. Works like a charm and it is very cheap. A Technics head shell comes with a gauge to exactly set the overhang easily. You just slide that gauge over the plug and you can adjust the stylus tip to the length of the gauge. And you knows who's your uncle. :) BTW, if you use calipers, be sure to measure from the rubber washer, not from the metal shoulder of the plug. Also it is very important to use a NON-magnetic screwdriver. External magnetism can ruin the cartridge. That is why the screws are made of aluminium, not steel.
Just got my first real turntable (SL-1300) this month and have been obsessed with learning how to repair/maintain it - even though it basically worked out of the box! This video has been fantastic, about to use my vintage 80s Geo Disc on the Ortofon Red!
Good video, thanks! You overcame the temptation of recapping... I would have recapped if it were mine, just for the peace of mind since you were working on the PCB already. Cheers,
I won't go into the audio quality part of Analog vs Digital in any of what is ultimately the storage of the music, but I will say that the act of actually touching, caring for, and physically finding the track you want to hear, plus caring for the gear needed, really puts the listener in a closer relationship with the music. It's similar when you can touch real controls on an amp or receiver. The psychological connection is just not the same as when you can scroll with a remote or app. You tend to listen to a whole song once you've committed to playing it instead of looking for something else after a few seconds. Both my kids, in differing parts of their 20's, have both been arguing over who gets what in our collection, vinyl, CD, tapes. And both have started with little all in one systems, one a Crosley style ,and the other an old Realistic Clarinette 16. We (wife and I ) have been nudging them to look for "real" components in the hopes they will come around to the fold. They will, eventually. :)
BTW, if you Google "Realistic Clarinette 16", about the only thing you'll find on it is my write up of what I did to it to put it back into service . It wasn't much. (Realistic in da house)
This is the best video regarding setting up a turntable I have watched so far. Going to renovate and upgrade my dad's old JVC QL-A7 and give it a Nagaoka MP-110 :) Pair it with a Schiit Mani 2 as the phono input on my Onkyo TX-NR686 isn't the best. This video made me a lot more confident in the project.
Great video Tony. Those Technics models are from the mid to late 70s. Not so recent. The A-T cartridge is a bit cheaper than you quoted. Typically $49 for the cartridge, $29 for the stylus. An excellent deal. I've seen headshells that are a few hundred, but never thousands! $$$ LOL. I find it's much easier to connect the wires to the cartridge pins before mounting the cartridge in the headshell. You are correct that the Technics arm was originally designed for Stevenson alignment, but that two point protractor you have with null points at 2.60 and 4.76 inches is actually made for Baerwald alignment. You can set up using Baerwald alignment on the Technics arm, but the overhang will need to be increased by about 1.9mm, and offset angle reduced by about 1 degree. Finally, thank you for taking the time to stress the importance of having your stylus pressure gauge at the same level as the record surface. This is something I have been preaching for years, and can be a much bigger deal than most people realize, With some thicker gauges, the reading may be off by as much as a half a gram. What's really weird, is that with some arms, the force actually goes down as you raise the gauge higher. It all has to do with how the counterweight mass is distributed relative to the centerline of the arm. One neat trick for added stylus safety when using a gauge, is to first weigh the stylus guard by itself, then add that figure to the target stylus pressure. That way you can leave the guard in place when you're adjusting the tracking force.
As a subscriber of Stereophile magazine and from what I've read I can attest to some cartridges costing in the tens-of-thousands of $$$ (examples "Clearaudio Goldfinger Statement" & "Air Tight Opus-1"). Almost unimaginable (at least for someone of my means) to fork out that kind of money for a wear item!
Excellent and meticulous work on a nice vintage product that reminds me why I abandoned vinyl -- with it's myriad technical limitations and compromises -- entirely once the kinks were worked out of digital media around Y2K. At this point vinyl -- like vacuum tube amplification -- is much more about nostalgia than sound reproduction. Been there, done that, don't have the room or the patience for it any more -- high fidelity means "great faithfulness," and modern source media like CDs and lossless files are much more faithful to the intent of the artist and production team than vinyl or even 15 IPS half-track open-reel tape can manage.
An excellent video as always on a subject that everyone has has found a problem. For many years I had a Linn LP12 and AT OC9 and I do recall why I kind of left vinyl behind for similar reasons. By the time CD was becoming a thing they really cheaped out on the pressings, almost Flexi disks and they just had the worst of both world really, that had been mastered in the studio digitally and what you had was a cut of the CD with all it's metallic deadness and surface noise from sub standard vinyl. It was a clear cut off in the mid 80s. I still have a lesser turntable, a mid range for the time quartz direct drive which I must admit I still listen to once in a while and at the best the LP12 and certainly the moving coil pickup were capable of real magic but with a sprung sub-chassis and an ultra fine stylus profile it was sure a prima donna. The pressings today can be excellent, and some are not, 180g is usually a given but some I have are very noisy indeed. Also the recordings today take advantage of the capabilities of the digital age so an ultra compressed high level recording with every band of the spectrum up to the max cannot really be accommodated on vinyl considering the equipment that the pressings may be forced at. The ritual of the prayer to the turntable is kind of appealing, making selection and setting up to play a side an event. While I have all of my lossless music now on a NAS I have reverted back playing CDs, SACD, DVDA from really physical media just for the act physically browsing through tangible items and the rituals involved. A shame SACD did not catch on more as I feel it was a big step forward.
The proper way to do this. I got rid of my second and last turntable decades ago, a Technics SL1600 semi auto, I think. Changed to CD and it was initially great. But being rather dumb/young my very first CD player a Sony ES 701 died. A common failure of the power ICs that control the laser assembly. And the fix from the authorized/actual branded repair center was not really good, very slow and noisy, audible from sound output, laser movement control. Yet the the only glass epoxy board of the entire unit said to be from the pro line, the digital to analog board, does not fail. Does not pay to be an early adopter, IMO. Had a similar experience even with Fluke early LCD meters. The displays would fail in about a year. The thing that always bugged me is the cheap build quality of most consumer electronics. The Sony ES line, usually use glass epoxy boards rather the the common phenolic. And like my Stax headphones the pot is a Alps. A bit pricey yet not crazy like makers like AR (Audio Research), Mark Levinson and others.
Tony. This brings back memories. This was my first Technics table, and I sold some of these, during my brief sales career. I'd like to make a few points that might be helpful. 1) It dates from 75-78. 2) When you lock the rest in place, for added security, tie a twist wrap around the arm latch. 3) When the platter is off, be EXTRA careful, no to let anything metallic, get near the platter magnet. If it attracts something, it could be damaged. 4) Any light oil is OK for the spindle, but Technics makes a specific oil, available from kabusa.com. 5) For alignment, Technics has a cheap overhang gauge for the 52mm adjustment, which gives a Stevenson alignment. Also, the measurement should be from BEHIND the rubber washer on the headshell. If you use the gauge, there is no need to use a protractor. The result should be the same. 6) I respectfully disagree, that tracking force should be set before alignment, since moving the cartridge during alignment, will change the tracking force. Great video...great turntable.😀
Thanks for all the great info! Sorry about the confusion, but when I mentioned adjusting tracking force before the alignment, I meant that you should get it roughly adjusted, so as not to have the counterbalance so far out that you damage the stylus arm. A final adjustment of tracking force is then done after alignment. I had things in a lot better order, until I messed up with the camera record and had to re-shoot the whole last part of the alignment :( Thanks again, that was all very good info!
I've got an SL1700 and an 1800mk2. I really like these Technics tables. I've checked out the new 1200GR and G at a hi-fi store and am happy to report that the quality is just as good as ever.
Hi I just wanna say thank you this is a really great instructional video. I love how you explained all the components of the turntable. Thank you very much.
With pots that have those double slim finger wipers I've had a lot of success with bending them sideways to contact new carbon surfaces. I have done this with several pots where the wiper has worn through the carbon to the backing.
Azimuth and vta can be adjusted by using shims between the cartridge and head shell for arms that do not have adjustability. Azimuth can be set with a fozgometer or oscilloscope. The poor man's way is to reverse the polarity of one channel at the cartridge. Play a true mono record. Adjust the azimuth (either at the turntable or with shims) until there is no sound. Return the wires back to correct polarity.
The grease in the 70's model TT's over time dries up and needs removing and replacing. They also some times added some light oil or grease to the reject tripping mechanism that can degrade and cause a drag on the stylus toward the end of the record.
Hi Tony, You say that your videos are just 'entertainment' and not 'instructional'? Well, I was certainly most entertained. I learned more here than in many classes of equal duration! This video was the most wonderful video for me! I have an old Thorens TD-160 that I have been wanting to restore because it sounds horrible but I had no idea what to do with it. Your video made me eager and confident that I can take on this project! And then I'll be able to listen to my Yes albums too! I was really trying to figure out all those adjustments and what stylus would be best for me. Now I have a good idea. I will hook it up with a little NAD preamp to my (modest) NAIM setup. I truly appreciate you and your work and I also wish you joy, happiness and good health! Cheers, Mark
I remember blowing my money on an ATOC9 moving coil after being blown away with how well these worked so well, especially with inner grooves and just frightened the hell out of me trying to align it, my hands were shaking thinking of the cost of damaging it. I wish they made things easier, grid markings on the underside of headshells. Very brave of you to take on such a complex matter. The last time I did one the resonance was completely inappropriate and came back into the room with a red hot amp dealing with the low frequency energy from the record.
think mc cartridges are over-rated. I've had a Super,Denons. they can have a high-frequencies lift. also, the elliptical stylus often fitted can suffer tip resonances. the other deal-breaker can be stylus replacement cost. incredibly high, mostly. - always check that, before buying.$500 for a needle? no way, at least not for me.re-tipping services must be highly profitable, just like mc cartridges. google 'art dudley spherical stylus'. this can give an impression finer detail & 'air', falsely, imo. buying used moving-magnet cartridges on ebay can be risky, but for little $, you can experiment.
Thanks for this video, it's immensely helpful. I was looking for a detailed turntable setup walkthrough for a while, yours is by far the best I've seen so far. I have the "lesser" 1710 model but it is very similar to set up and still a very decent record player. I knew about some of the procedures but learned a lot of new tricks. Also, excellent music choice. ;) Thanks!
Hey Ray, thanks for this awesome guide. I have two of these turntables and one is def giving me trouble and i will have to open it up. So i feel more comfortable about it now. I know affiliated link split opinions, BUT it does help finding and organizing stuff. So if you do feel comfortable, it would help us finding exactly the things you used and at the end of the day, we would be able to put a bit back in your pocket, since this surely took quite some time to get online. Cheers
I have a friend with a super high end phono system and digital system. Both equally high end. He plays digital first and everyone nods in approval. Then he plays the same on vinyl. Everyone's eyes bug wide open. They can't believe the difference & the improvement. And these are not audiophiles. Just average people who don't listen critically. This happens every time he does it.
Great video. I used one of those Technics overhang gauges and just squared the cart in the headshell visually. I am not experiencing any tracking errors or IGD and the deck sounds amazing. I know the process of squaring visually can be tough to do with some carts. Pretty easy to do with my Nagaoka though.
Good choice to go with a new head shell. Turns out that you can’t mount a VM95 on the original Technics head shell anyway, due to the threaded inserts.
A good, simple double check is to take some dental floss and tie a loop at the end. Loop the the loop over the record shaft. Pull it taut. Align the floss with front face of the cartridge. Move the cartridge in its arc while keeping the floss next to front of the cartridge. By looking closely, you can see the error.
Micheal Fremer of Analog Planet would definitely vouch for the Vinyl experience. I remember listening to vinyl to college for music theory and history courses. While CDs where more dynamic and crisper, there was a lot of well mastered performances on records.
alignment is so important, that a correctly aligned cheapo cartridge can outperform a badly-aligned expensive cartridge.you explained It all very well. personally I would check by getting a Shure Audio Obstacle lp. new or mint used.using the level 5 'torture track', one can hear how well the stylus s tracking 'difficult(high-level) grooves-the most difficult to track.you can align just using this method, only,actually.- as Sinatra sings 'I did it my way' :). inner tracks(nearest label) of a good condition, clean lp, are also a good indication of alignment - if there is no or little distortion and good tracking, you've done well. imo. oh, I prefer spherical(aka conical) - better for getting great sound across more records(factory/pressing/processing is another variable). & less expensive.thanks
Hi xraytonyb, thanks for this detailed video. The 'Overhang' should be measured as including the rubber washer from the back side. But you said @32:18 that it should be measured from the shoulder without the rubber washer. Please check. And 'Overhang Gauge' is available for Technics TTs , using that will be easy and accurate instead of using a vernier caliper @36:36. Thank you.
Hi tony when you cleaned the fine pitch controls you also mentioned cleaning the course controls how on earth did you set these up as they are under the turntable it seems to be hit and miss to get them spot on ,another great video Mike
It is very easy. There is an access hole through the platter, through which you can access the two course adjust pots. Just set the two knobs to mid travel and then adjust the two course adjustments until the two speeds are close. The use the outside knobs to fine tune it. You will have to stop the turntable in between adjustments, in order to get to the course pots, but usually within a few tries, you'll get it close enough. Thanks for the comment!
Test records and test gear or even your ears can be a big help in setting your turntable up. A scope can help you see relative level between channels and distortion.
At first glance I thought it was going to be like my old SL-D3 only hot-rodded. Nope, completely different inside. :) I did get a SL-1210GR last year since a new 1200 series TT was on the shopping list since before they discontinued the originals ages ago. There are exceptions to every rule, but playing back an old record that's in decent shape and comparing it to something just released in the digital domain really makes it feel like a lost work of art and hard work that nobody today is even remotely capable of duplicating...
Speaking on your "blunder" in failing to record a segment --- today I filmed video of myself changing out a DC jack on small mixer. I used two cameras and I went to the overhead camera for the actual work, dummy me brushed the "stop record" button trying to adjust the camera 30 seconds into filming. Now, I am not going to put the old DC jack back in ... luckily I have a friend who has the same mixer and I will try again on his, provided he wants the modification done. (The old DC jack is a non-standard sized one.)
I bought one of these without a head-shell, what kind should I buy. Also why does the turntable stop when I start it without a record on it? By the way, this video taught me so much. Thank you so much!
Hey Tony, great video on the SL-1300. I have the exact same model and generation as you so I wanted to know if you ever had an issue with the auto-start mechanism moving the tonearm to the center of the record, lowering and sliding back to the beginning? This is a known problem with one of the moving parts under the plinth--the original grease hardens and becomes very difficult to move. I've identified the part with my fingers, tried to wiggle it back and forth, but the problem still happens. I'd love to know if you ever dealt with this before and how you remedied the problem. Thanks much and keep it up!
I went back for round 2--I opened the case, protected the soldering joints with foam, removed the gear assembly, and found the stuck part (it's part of the disc size mechanism). I sprayed deoxit on each pivot point and this melted the old grease this time and immediately realized it started moving differently---instead of pivoting a half-inch in each direction, it now moves to one side, then it slowly returns back to the original position. I closed up and the auto-start and repeat now actually work for the first time in a decade!
@@KafkasCat Could you share pictures of the part you're talking about? I have a SL-1700 with same problem and I've 99% percent sure it was something I displaced while soldering a new cable in, but it was so long ago I forgot. and no videos should the auto-return assembled and functioning.
@@TheLivingPlaneTEVO Check out this guys video th-cam.com/video/L6Km_wWQJuM/w-d-xo.html. @5:24, he point to the triangular metal offending part...I used a tiny bit of Deoxit to loosen the grease that's causing this part to stick. Once you degrease, it should move left & right easily while slowiy returning to its start position. When you tilt back the gears, make sure to protect your delicate leads with foam padding...it was agonizing putting pressure anywhere near those solder joints. Good luck.
Wow Tony, you're brave. Wading out there in shark infested waters. I respect you for showing all this great information. I hope not too many sharks try to take a chunk out of your leg.
I actually installed an Ortofon T4P Cartridge into a MARANTZ TT143 Linear Tracking Turntable and the music sounded brilliant but for some reason In the morning found it had been running all night for no reason and I tried to figure out why then it dawned on me that someone must have touched one of the buttons on the front of the turntable without knowing it, the turntable is designed so that you will have to have the lid down as the tonearm assembly is actually in the lid of the turntable or the record won't play, Dave Brubeck Take Five is a brilliant Jazz Album.
I bought my SL1650 new in about 1977. Other that being fully automatic the big difference between the SL1300 and SL1650 as far as i can tell is that the SL1300 had a composition plastic base and the SL1650 is all cast aluminum that probably weighs 30lbs! At the time i purchased the TT, my thoughts were that the aluminum would be more stable and less resonant but I'm now thinking the plastic composition would actually dampen rumble and feedback better.
Great! I thought i heard you warn about stripping the screws in the 'plastic' base. Any ole way, i think the only way they could improve on these for the price point would have been to reduce the tone arm mass a bit. I headed later on that most agreed the belly m belt drive better dampened any motor inconsistencies as well as not having the issue of low frequency pulsing created by the DD motor poles. As you I'm not an upscale audiofile and like most older cats, my hearing has lost some range. I've been a bench tech through all the audio/video had days of the 70's and 80's and into the mid 90's when repairing things all kinda feel apart. Do mostly musicians stuff as a side line for fun. Love the videos. Glen
Hi Tony, excellent video, thank you. I just recently purchased an SL-1300 and going through the servicing. When I turned it on the neon lamp worked for about 30 seconds and then died, checked both fuse and 4.7k resistor and both working so must be the bulb. The only problem is they don't make them anymore and can't find an OEM, after market one either. Any suggestions? I have been looking at the NE-2 neon bulb but are very faint so thinking of wiring up 2 of them. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers Rod.
@@xraytonyb Empire styli are very small and highly elliptical. It might only need a very good cleaning. I use "No Residue" ElectroSolve contact cleaner on my Empire 2000e stylus because they are not glued or bonded to the cantilever, but are actually press-fit into a very small opening. They won't move and the cleaner has no effect aside from deeply cleaning the diamond, unlike "bonded" ones like the AT which use adhesives....
Hello from Germany! We use the AT 120eb cartridge in our Technics. It Sounds very good, but it is already not in Produktion Like the At 100 on my Sl Bd 1 .
The higher the quality stylus shape, the important proper tracking is. Conical styluses don't require much if any alignment. Micro ridge or Vanderhull stylus or other high end stylus require alot more alignment angles than you do here. So elliptical is probably a good choice.
I just found and unboxed my SL-1300 that I bought around 1972 and packed up in 1985 for move to CA! Love your video(s)! Just wondered what the lube and/or oil that you use when you service these guys? Thanks
I have this turn table. My problem is with the arm. It immediately floats up and to get it heavy enough to play a record I have to put weights on the top of the cartridge or place bolt washers on the cartridge finger lift. I like to diy, is this something I can trouble shoot and fix? or do I need to bring it in to a shop.
NOOOOO! Don't put weights on top of the headshell! That's why the counterweight on the back of the tonearm screws in and out! Generally speaking, you should be able to adjust it so the weight is perfectly neutral, adjust the indepenently mounted incrementally labelled ring to "zero," then turn the whole weight until the ring reads the tracking weight of the stylus. 1.5 - 2g is usually a good start.
I have seen aftermarket / htird party feet fairly economically priced, but genuine feet are really darn expensive...... I believe the feet from the 12xx also suit the 13xx. I understadn your concern about Deoxit, but I would rather use Deoxit than risk damaging the carbon layer in the Potentiometer. I've never had an issue with Deoxit causing a Pot in good condition to go loose. Usually only worn ones would do that. The lubricant from factory is usually an oil, rather than a grease on the pots. They usually move fairly freely when new and get sticky over time as the oil dries out and goes gummy. The "fibre board" should not be lubricated with oils and the like as this can cause it to become conductive, which will affect your speed control. They do not dry out and crack. It is the same material as used for PCB's which you would never oil. The SL-1300 was a long running series. I believe the original (non-quartz locked) was released in 1975. The Mk2 I believe had the Quartz lock and was released a bit later. Are you sure this one would be from the late 80's? I can't recall how long the original 1300 ran for.
Never seen anyone disassemble and clean a pot. The problem with CD is that either it plays or does not, the sound quality has no adjustments. There is little or none to see. The record is a beautiful thing to enjoy.
I just acquired one of these turntables that was well taken care of. If there is no problem with the speed, should I skip the cleaning fix you went through?
Very well video on your Dusting and Cleaning the Turntable. What would you recommend for using the damping of the tonearm. I have a Pioneer Direct Drive table and the tone arm slams on the record. It does not have the damping like it use to. I am asking if you have ever fixed a turn table with that issue?
There is an area in the cue lever mechanism that uses a small amount of oil for the damping of the arm. In time, the oil dries out/leaks and you need to replace it. There is usually also an adjustment. It's a pretty straightforward process. You can download the service documentation from vinylengine.com and it will guide you through the process for your particular turntable. Thanks for th ecomment!
When you do get it apart and learn how to replace the "damping fluid" Look for 300,000 CST silicone oil. You can get it online or sometimes in RC shops.
Hi Tony Can you tell us what is tje grease that you use for the pots' wipers? I didn't catch the name. Better yet, how do we select the properties of the product if the one that you mention is not available? Thank you for another great video. Cheers Mark
@@xraytonyb Hi Tony, Thank you. Indeed, my wife was right: I was not paying attention! You showed both products very clearly in the video. Thanks a lot, I truly appreciate your videos. Cheers, Mark
I sent a previous post on another video saying that I purchased an sl-1300 MK2 at an estate sale. It looks so much different than yours. I wonder why Technics used the same model number? Wish I could include a photo
I could be wrong but I think that Technics used the mk numbers as updates to base models happened. The 1300's are I believe the automatic machines. The 1300mk2 added quartz lock, the same tone arm as the 1200 series, a suspended chassis (don't remember if the 1300 has that or not), and some different electronics. At its core though is that it's the automatic table. They did the same thing with the 1200 and other tables . I think the 1400 series is a semi auto table etc.
@@parrisgeorge9708 Yes I have a collection of most of these SL decks.- 1975/76 saw the 1300 (full auto), 1400 (semi), and 1500 manual. In 77/78 the 1600 replaced the 1300, 1700 (my fave) replaced the 1400, and the 1800 replaced the 1500. Those were the MK1 series. After that, the MK2 series was released with the same model numbers. Of course, the 1200 was also always in the mix too, the MK1 is not really anything like the now-famous 1200 MK2 though.
The cueing arm on my Technics SL-1300 does not stay up and slowly drops onto the record or into the arm rest. Can you tell me if there is an adjustment for this? Thank you.
First symptom is a muffled sound as if you have a dirty stylus from a sound perspective. Drop the stylus on a piece of magic eraser for the best dry cleaning for verification. The rest is done with a cheap digital microscope.
I have a Rega Planar 2 that I keep meaning to unpack and start to use again, re ignite my interest in vinyl audio ( dig out my carbon fiber 24 carat gold stitched volume glove ) and I want to make a headphone amp, would be nice to include a phono input...any recommendations as to find a suitable schematic please ?...great tutorial...cheers.
Great video. I just picked up an SL1600, very similar to this. I'm looking for the original OEM headshell. please let me know if yours is for sale in the US
I have that same exact empire cartridge and stylus laying around I pulled off my Pioneer. its still good as far as I know. little high on the sibilance though.
Great Video! I just bought a SL-1300 and video is very helpful.I have tried to find "CRC control cleaner" on the net but I just get "contact cleaner" as search results. Are they the same thing? I really have no clue about such things.
Hello and thanks for your explanations. Verry clear. I have the SL-1300 and i've put my new AT VM95-sh/h or AT VM95-ml/h, weight 15,5gr. i am using a digital scales to set 2gr for vertical pressure and when i put the against weight to maximum in front, i have only maximum 1,60gr. What can I do please? Thanks in advance for your advice. Vince
Do y'all think there is any significant difference between expensive DeOxit Silicone grease and the cheap stuff at the auto parts shop used for spark plug boots? :)
My turntable had very bad wow. I've checked belts, cleaned spindle and idler wheel and oiled them too. What else can I do? The wow is around 2 hz about 1 per revolution of the platter.
My 1300 is doing the same thing. It worked when I put it up years ago but when I took it back out of the closet a few months ago to start using it again, it wouldn't spin. The light comes on and if I spin it by hand it will lift and cue. Have you found any answer to why yours stopped spinning?
Thank you for such an in-depth process. Now I can take my parent's prized turntable and restore it back to its former glory!
I love all the armchair bros with their expert “you should’ves”. Tony has forgotten more than all of us combined. Thank you Tony for these videos with expert explanations. Long time subscriber.
Back in 1986 or so I bought my first CD player. I sold my best friend my ~100 album collection. Cut to around 2005 and I took the leap and went all digital (yes, CDs are digital, I guess I mean all...electronic? FLAC and MP3 for smaller portable devices...no, I am NOT an audiofool, I am a music enthusiast :-) )and sold the same guy my ~500 CD collection for one hell of a good deal. Talking to him a few months ago by phone (I am now in IN, he is still in FL) we were talking music and our systems and I told him how I got back into vinyl. He asked me if I wanted my albums back. I need to head to FL soon! Nothing like a best bud!
I own this model tt since new, 1978. Found your video full of useful info. Thx
Wow and you got when it was new and glad you still have . You should look up the turntable and check technics turntable chart and when it came out and the specs. I have the brother of this one and the SL 1400 and I believe they also made the SL 1500. And I think came out in 77.
Wow! I have the utmost regard for you and the time you spent on this video.
I am also impressed. I did own a Lynn Sondeck about 50 years ago. I will be receiving an Oracle turntable soon and wanted to learn more about turntables.
Thank you very much I am impressed.
Really great video, I've always had vinyl contact but I never messed up too much. A few years ago I started to really get interested in vintage equipment and quality records like Sl-1300 and others. I really do a lot of research on the subject, and here in Brazil there is a lot of content but never detailed in this form of your video, after graduating Technician in electronics I started to repair some devices and even have some restoration projects.
I have a lot of passion for vinyl, your video is excellent, rich in details, and you explain very well about the procedures performed, I really liked it, congratulations!!
Dear Tony!
Your videos are always great and a pleasure to look at. I learn so much. You answer the questions I have, and do it clearly.
This is by far the best turntable adjustment video I've ever seen, showing the things others tend to omit (like what is the point of counterweight adjustment ring - and how it can be used, if it is not attached to the counterweight).
But the biggest AHA moment for me here was your cleaning of the pots - I've managed to "loosen" so many pots when cleaning them, and it gets very annoying (being on a guitar, when they "turn by themselves" when playing, or on audio equipment, when they just feel cheap turning without any resistance). Often people just spray some Deoxit in the proximity of the pot and hope some of it comes to the right place. It's nice to see somebody does it properly and thoroughly.
From the things I already know I can always see that your vids are the ones which can be trusted in the things I don't know yet - TH-cam being full of different "shortcuts" and "inventors" doing things, which should not be done - or maybe just collecting likes and Patreon subscribers; various "modders" butchering electronic stuff and such. Keep the great work! Peace and all good!
Hey thanks for making this video. Very well done and informative. I knew most of this information. But it was really nice as a refresher before working on a similar turntable. You gave me the confidence to tackle a similar set-up I might not have tried.
Hi Tony,
If you want to hear exactly what is recorded on the disc, try Denon DL103. This is a fairly inexpensive moving coil cartridge. But its output signal is only 200 μV. Before the phono stage, a transformer or a special preamplifier (so-called head-amp) must be inserted: completely linear and with extremely low noise. This head-amp also matches the very low output impedance of the cartridge (30 ohms) with the high input impedance of the phono stage (47 kohms).
I tried different options and settled on a Yamaha C4 head-amp. My phono stage was developed by a Russian specialist, my old friend. Moreover, we are both professional sound engineers and we know very well what the sound should be like;).
Sincerely,
Alexander
Moscow, Russia
I need to replace the cartridge on my father's SL-1300 and this was the perfect video to help with that. I bookmarked it for future use, if anything else needs replacing. Thank you so much for taking the time to make it!
What an amazing tutorial; I gained far more knowledge than I had anticipated. I sincerely appreciate it. What a fantastic or amazing video, well explained. THANK YOU!
Thanks Tony.. I purchased and still have it a 1300 in 1974, while stationed overseas, great turntable, my dust cover came without screws.
One thing to point out, when records are cut, they are cut tangentially to the center of the record. As you mentioned a tone arm a swings in an arc. So the arc of the tone arm creates tracking error relative to the straight line of the cutting head, which causes distortion. That is why alignment matters. Good suggestion on vinyl engine.
I replace those worn rubber feet with round felt ones designed for chair's feet. Works like a charm and it is very cheap. A Technics head shell comes with a gauge to exactly set the overhang easily. You just slide that gauge over the plug and you can adjust the stylus tip to the length of the gauge. And you knows who's your uncle. :) BTW, if you use calipers, be sure to measure from the rubber washer, not from the metal shoulder of the plug. Also it is very important to use a NON-magnetic screwdriver. External magnetism can ruin the cartridge. That is why the screws are made of aluminium, not steel.
Very good tips! Thanks for sharing!
Just got my first real turntable (SL-1300) this month and have been obsessed with learning how to repair/maintain it - even though it basically worked out of the box! This video has been fantastic, about to use my vintage 80s Geo Disc on the Ortofon Red!
Good video, thanks! You overcame the temptation of recapping... I would have recapped if it were mine, just for the peace of mind since you were working on the PCB already. Cheers,
I won't go into the audio quality part of Analog vs Digital in any of what is ultimately the storage of the music, but I will say that the act of actually touching, caring for, and physically finding the track you want to hear, plus caring for the gear needed, really puts the listener in a closer relationship with the music. It's similar when you can touch real controls on an amp or receiver. The psychological connection is just not the same as when you can scroll with a remote or app. You tend to listen to a whole song once you've committed to playing it instead of looking for something else after a few seconds.
Both my kids, in differing parts of their 20's, have both been arguing over who gets what in our collection, vinyl, CD, tapes. And both have started with little all in one systems, one a Crosley style ,and the other an old Realistic Clarinette 16. We (wife and I ) have been nudging them to look for "real" components in the hopes they will come around to the fold. They will, eventually. :)
BTW, if you Google "Realistic Clarinette 16", about the only thing you'll find on it is my write up of what I did to it to put it back into service . It wasn't much. (Realistic in da house)
This is the best video regarding setting up a turntable I have watched so far. Going to renovate and upgrade my dad's old JVC QL-A7 and give it a Nagaoka MP-110 :) Pair it with a Schiit Mani 2 as the phono input on my Onkyo TX-NR686 isn't the best. This video made me a lot more confident in the project.
What input will you use for the external preamp? The phono input or aux?
@@joepasquarello1273 Into any audio input (not the Phono) on the Onkyo TX-NR686. I used the Game input.
Great video Tony.
Those Technics models are from the mid to late 70s. Not so recent.
The A-T cartridge is a bit cheaper than you quoted. Typically $49 for the cartridge, $29 for the stylus. An excellent deal.
I've seen headshells that are a few hundred, but never thousands! $$$ LOL.
I find it's much easier to connect the wires to the cartridge pins before mounting the cartridge in the headshell.
You are correct that the Technics arm was originally designed for Stevenson alignment, but that two point protractor you have with null points at 2.60 and 4.76 inches is actually made for Baerwald alignment. You can set up using Baerwald alignment on the Technics arm, but the overhang will need to be increased by about 1.9mm, and offset angle reduced by about 1 degree.
Finally, thank you for taking the time to stress the importance of having your stylus pressure gauge at the same level as the record surface. This is something I have been preaching for years, and can be a much bigger deal than most people realize, With some thicker gauges, the reading may be off by as much as a half a gram. What's really weird, is that with some arms, the force actually goes down as you raise the gauge higher. It all has to do with how the counterweight mass is distributed relative to the centerline of the arm.
One neat trick for added stylus safety when using a gauge, is to first weigh the stylus guard by itself, then add that figure to the target stylus pressure. That way you can leave the guard in place when you're adjusting the tracking force.
Thanks for the tips!
As a subscriber of Stereophile magazine and from what I've read I can attest to some cartridges costing in the tens-of-thousands of $$$ (examples "Clearaudio Goldfinger Statement" & "Air Tight Opus-1"). Almost unimaginable (at least for someone of my means) to fork out that kind of money for a wear item!
@@Mrsteve4761 Cartridges, sure. I think he was talking about headshells @ 25:27
Fantastic videos, im watching all of yours about turntables and learned so much !
Excellent and meticulous work on a nice vintage product that reminds me why I abandoned vinyl -- with it's myriad technical limitations and compromises -- entirely once the kinks were worked out of digital media around Y2K. At this point vinyl -- like vacuum tube amplification -- is much more about nostalgia than sound reproduction. Been there, done that, don't have the room or the patience for it any more -- high fidelity means "great faithfulness," and modern source media like CDs and lossless files are much more faithful to the intent of the artist and production team than vinyl or even 15 IPS half-track open-reel tape can manage.
An excellent video as always on a subject that everyone has has found a problem.
For many years I had a Linn LP12 and AT OC9 and I do recall why I kind of left vinyl behind for similar reasons. By the time CD was becoming a thing they really cheaped out on the pressings, almost Flexi disks and they just had the worst of both world really, that had been mastered in the studio digitally and what you had was a cut of the CD with all it's metallic deadness and surface noise from sub standard vinyl. It was a clear cut off in the mid 80s. I still have a lesser turntable, a mid range for the time quartz direct drive which I must admit I still listen to once in a while and at the best the LP12 and certainly the moving coil pickup were capable of real magic but with a sprung sub-chassis and an ultra fine stylus profile it was sure a prima donna. The pressings today can be excellent, and some are not, 180g is usually a given but some I have are very noisy indeed. Also the recordings today take advantage of the capabilities of the digital age so an ultra compressed high level recording with every band of the spectrum up to the max cannot really be accommodated on vinyl considering the equipment that the pressings may be forced at.
The ritual of the prayer to the turntable is kind of appealing, making selection and setting up to play a side an event. While I have all of my lossless music now on a NAS I have reverted back playing CDs, SACD, DVDA from really physical media just for the act physically browsing through tangible items and the rituals involved. A shame SACD did not catch on more as I feel it was a big step forward.
The proper way to do this. I got rid of my second and last turntable decades ago, a Technics SL1600 semi auto, I think. Changed to CD and it was initially great. But being rather dumb/young my very first CD player a Sony ES 701 died. A common failure of the power ICs that control the laser assembly. And the fix from the authorized/actual branded repair center was not really good, very slow and noisy, audible from sound output, laser movement control. Yet the the only glass epoxy board of the entire unit said to be from the pro line, the digital to analog board, does not fail. Does not pay to be an early adopter, IMO. Had a similar experience even with Fluke early LCD meters. The displays would fail in about a year.
The thing that always bugged me is the cheap build quality of most consumer electronics. The Sony ES line, usually use glass epoxy boards rather the the common phenolic. And like my Stax headphones the pot is a Alps. A bit pricey yet not crazy like makers like AR (Audio Research), Mark Levinson and others.
Tony. This brings back memories. This was my first Technics table, and I sold some of these, during my brief sales career. I'd like to make a few points that might be helpful.
1) It dates from 75-78.
2) When you lock the rest in place, for added security, tie a twist wrap around the arm latch.
3) When the platter is off, be EXTRA careful, no to let anything metallic, get near the platter magnet. If it attracts something, it
could be damaged.
4) Any light oil is OK for the spindle, but Technics makes a specific oil, available from kabusa.com.
5) For alignment, Technics has a cheap overhang gauge for the 52mm adjustment, which gives a Stevenson alignment. Also, the measurement should be from BEHIND the rubber washer on the headshell. If you use the gauge, there is no need to use a protractor. The result should be the same.
6) I respectfully disagree, that tracking force should be set before alignment, since moving the cartridge during alignment, will change the tracking force.
Great video...great turntable.😀
Thanks for all the great info! Sorry about the confusion, but when I mentioned adjusting tracking force before the alignment, I meant that you should get it roughly adjusted, so as not to have the counterbalance so far out that you damage the stylus arm. A final adjustment of tracking force is then done after alignment. I had things in a lot better order, until I messed up with the camera record and had to re-shoot the whole last part of the alignment :( Thanks again, that was all very good info!
@@xraytonyb My pleasure Tony...keep it up!
I bought that same caliper at Radio Shack over a decade ago. It still works and I use it almost every day.
I just picked up a SL1710. This video is incredibly helpful servicing it. Thank you!
I've got an SL1700 and an 1800mk2. I really like these Technics tables.
I've checked out the new 1200GR and G at a hi-fi store and am happy to report that the quality is just as good as ever.
Hi I just wanna say thank you this is a really great instructional video. I love how you explained all the components of the turntable. Thank you very much.
With pots that have those double slim finger wipers I've had a lot of success with bending them sideways to contact new carbon surfaces. I have done this with several pots where the wiper has worn through the carbon to the backing.
Azimuth and vta can be adjusted by using shims between the cartridge and head shell for arms that do not have adjustability. Azimuth can be set with a fozgometer or oscilloscope. The poor man's way is to reverse the polarity of one channel at the cartridge. Play a true mono record. Adjust the azimuth (either at the turntable or with shims) until there is no sound. Return the wires back to correct polarity.
Great Job!!! I had the same turntable about 25 years ago. They're great!
The grease in the 70's model TT's over time dries up and needs removing and replacing.
They also some times added some light oil or grease to the reject tripping mechanism that can degrade and cause a drag on the stylus toward the end of the record.
That was a superb video,thank you for posting.
Hi Tony,
You say that your videos are just 'entertainment' and not 'instructional'? Well, I was certainly most entertained. I learned more here than in many classes of equal duration!
This video was the most wonderful video for me! I have an old Thorens TD-160 that I have been wanting to restore because it sounds horrible but I had no idea what to do with it.
Your video made me eager and confident that I can take on this project! And then I'll be able to listen to my Yes albums too!
I was really trying to figure out all those adjustments and what stylus would be best for me. Now I have a good idea. I will hook it up with a little NAD preamp to my (modest) NAIM setup.
I truly appreciate you and your work and I also wish you joy, happiness and good health!
Cheers,
Mark
I remember blowing my money on an ATOC9 moving coil after being blown away with how well these worked so well, especially with inner grooves and just frightened the hell out of me trying to align it, my hands were shaking thinking of the cost of damaging it. I wish they made things easier, grid markings on the underside of headshells. Very brave of you to take on such a complex matter. The last time I did one the resonance was completely inappropriate and came back into the room with a red hot amp dealing with the low frequency energy from the record.
think mc cartridges are over-rated. I've had a Super,Denons. they can have a high-frequencies lift. also, the elliptical stylus often fitted can suffer tip resonances.
the other deal-breaker can be stylus replacement cost. incredibly high, mostly. - always check that, before buying.$500 for a needle? no way, at least not for me.re-tipping services must be highly profitable, just like mc cartridges. google 'art dudley spherical stylus'.
this can give an impression finer detail & 'air', falsely, imo. buying used moving-magnet cartridges on ebay can be risky, but for little $, you can experiment.
Thanks for this video, it's immensely helpful. I was looking for a detailed turntable setup walkthrough for a while, yours is by far the best I've seen so far. I have the "lesser" 1710 model but it is very similar to set up and still a very decent record player. I knew about some of the procedures but learned a lot of new tricks. Also, excellent music choice. ;) Thanks!
Hey Ray, thanks for this awesome guide. I have two of these turntables and one is def giving me trouble and i will have to open it up. So i feel more comfortable about it now.
I know affiliated link split opinions, BUT it does help finding and organizing stuff. So if you do feel comfortable, it would help us finding exactly the things you used and at the end of the day, we would be able to put a bit back in your pocket, since this surely took quite some time to get online. Cheers
All of this is much simpler with the Technics overhang gauge.
GREAT JOB TONY, THANK-YOU !! SEASONS GREETINGS !!.....I HAVE THE SME 3009, MICRO ACOUSTICS CARTRIDGE, AND THE TECHNICS SL 110 TABLE ..
Excellent Video ! I had been using those tiny Dental Brushes to smooth the DO Grease around :)
Thank you for the lesson..much enjoyed will practice it on my lower end sl-03 technics turntable...wish my luck
Awesome video I enjoy and learn from them keep up the good work.
Actually this turntable was made in '75-'76. You can find the last digit of the year in the serial number, behind the first 1 or 2 letters.
I've been looking for that information somewhere to parse my serial number. Is there a source for that? My serial number starts with DA5828. Thanks.
@@mimizone DA = Production Line
6 = Last digit of year
K = Month (0 to 9, A to L)
22 = Date
A = Change Mark
025 = Sequence
In your case it's August 28 of '75
Fantastic video
Hats off to a GENIUS.
Thank you for a fantastic tutorial, from the UK.
I have a friend with a super high end phono system and digital system. Both equally high end. He plays digital first and everyone nods in approval. Then he plays the same on vinyl. Everyone's eyes bug wide open. They can't believe the difference & the improvement. And these are not audiophiles. Just average people who don't listen critically. This happens every time he does it.
Great video. I used one of those Technics overhang gauges and just squared the cart in the headshell visually. I am not experiencing any tracking errors or IGD and the deck sounds amazing. I know the process of squaring visually can be tough to do with some carts. Pretty easy to do with my Nagaoka though.
You gave some good Informations, not to destroy the Player!!!!!!! Thanks a lot👍👍👍👍
Good choice to go with a new head shell. Turns out that you can’t mount a VM95 on the original Technics head shell anyway, due to the threaded inserts.
The Technics Over Hang tool helps with adjusting the overhang.Stevenson or Baerwald alignment
Only barely. Very rudimentary rough adjustment.
A good, simple double check is to take some dental floss and tie a loop at the end. Loop the the loop over the record shaft. Pull it taut. Align the floss with front face of the cartridge. Move the cartridge in its arc while keeping the floss next to front of the cartridge. By looking closely, you can see the error.
Micheal Fremer of Analog Planet would definitely vouch for the Vinyl experience. I remember listening to vinyl to college for music theory and history courses. While CDs where more dynamic and crisper, there was a lot of well mastered performances on records.
Nicely done! Congratulations, and thanks for the video!
On this range be sure to clean the on/off switch. It needs to be a very low impedance at the switch contacts to maintain good speed stability.
alignment is so important, that a correctly aligned cheapo cartridge can outperform a badly-aligned expensive cartridge.you explained It all very well. personally I would check by getting a Shure Audio Obstacle lp. new or mint used.using the level 5 'torture track', one can hear how well the stylus s tracking 'difficult(high-level) grooves-the most difficult to track.you can align just using this method, only,actually.- as Sinatra sings 'I did it my way' :). inner tracks(nearest label) of a good condition, clean lp, are also a good indication of alignment - if there is no or little distortion and good tracking, you've done well. imo.
oh, I prefer spherical(aka conical) - better for getting great sound across more records(factory/pressing/processing is another variable). & less expensive.thanks
Hi xraytonyb, thanks for this detailed video. The 'Overhang' should be measured as including the rubber washer from the back side. But you said @32:18 that it should be measured from the shoulder without the rubber washer. Please check. And 'Overhang Gauge' is available for Technics TTs , using that will be easy and accurate instead of using a vernier caliper @36:36. Thank you.
Include the rubber washer.
I have a model 1350 with exactly the same pot issue. I'll try this. thanks!
Hi tony when you cleaned the fine pitch controls you also mentioned cleaning the course controls how on earth did you set these up as they are under the turntable it seems to be hit and miss to get them spot on ,another great video
Mike
It is very easy. There is an access hole through the platter, through which you can access the two course adjust pots. Just set the two knobs to mid travel and then adjust the two course adjustments until the two speeds are close. The use the outside knobs to fine tune it. You will have to stop the turntable in between adjustments, in order to get to the course pots, but usually within a few tries, you'll get it close enough. Thanks for the comment!
Very usefull, thanks.
Can't we use a record with calibrated tracks and an oscilloscope instead of ear for fine adjustments ?
Yes. I did this on some of my other turntable videos.
Test records and test gear or even your ears can be a big help in setting your turntable up. A scope can help you see relative level between channels and distortion.
At first glance I thought it was going to be like my old SL-D3 only hot-rodded. Nope, completely different inside. :) I did get a SL-1210GR last year since a new 1200 series TT was on the shopping list since before they discontinued the originals ages ago.
There are exceptions to every rule, but playing back an old record that's in decent shape and comparing it to something just released in the digital domain really makes it feel like a lost work of art and hard work that nobody today is even remotely capable of duplicating...
Speaking on your "blunder" in failing to record a segment --- today I filmed video of myself changing out a DC jack on small mixer. I used two cameras and I went to the overhead camera for the actual work, dummy me brushed the "stop record" button trying to adjust the camera 30 seconds into filming. Now, I am not going to put the old DC jack back in ... luckily I have a friend who has the same mixer and I will try again on his, provided he wants the modification done. (The old DC jack is a non-standard sized one.)
I bought one of these without a head-shell, what kind should I buy. Also why does the turntable stop when I start it without a record on it? By the way, this video taught me so much. Thank you so much!
Hey Tony, great video on the SL-1300. I have the exact same model and generation as you so I wanted to know if you ever had an issue with the auto-start mechanism moving the tonearm to the center of the record, lowering and sliding back to the beginning? This is a known problem with one of the moving parts under the plinth--the original grease hardens and becomes very difficult to move. I've identified the part with my fingers, tried to wiggle it back and forth, but the problem still happens. I'd love to know if you ever dealt with this before and how you remedied the problem. Thanks much and keep it up!
I went back for round 2--I opened the case, protected the soldering joints with foam, removed the gear assembly, and found the stuck part (it's part of the disc size mechanism). I sprayed deoxit on each pivot point and this melted the old grease this time and immediately realized it started moving differently---instead of pivoting a half-inch in each direction, it now moves to one side, then it slowly returns back to the original position. I closed up and the auto-start and repeat now actually work for the first time in a decade!
@@KafkasCat Could you share pictures of the part you're talking about? I have a SL-1700 with same problem and I've 99% percent sure it was something I displaced while soldering a new cable in, but it was so long ago I forgot. and no videos should the auto-return assembled and functioning.
@@TheLivingPlaneTEVO Check out this guys video th-cam.com/video/L6Km_wWQJuM/w-d-xo.html. @5:24, he point to the triangular metal offending part...I used a tiny bit of Deoxit to loosen the grease that's causing this part to stick. Once you degrease, it should move left & right easily while slowiy returning to its start position. When you tilt back the gears, make sure to protect your delicate leads with foam padding...it was agonizing putting pressure anywhere near those solder joints. Good luck.
Wow Tony, you're brave. Wading out there in shark infested waters. I respect you for showing all this great information. I hope not too many sharks try to take a chunk out of your leg.
Had two. Love them a lot.
I actually installed an Ortofon T4P Cartridge into a MARANTZ TT143 Linear Tracking Turntable and the music sounded brilliant but for some reason In the morning found it had been running all night for no reason and I tried to figure out why then it dawned on me that someone must have touched one of the buttons on the front of the turntable without knowing it, the turntable is designed so that you will have to have the lid down as the tonearm assembly is actually in the lid of the turntable or the record won't play, Dave Brubeck Take Five is a brilliant Jazz Album.
I bought my SL1650 new in about 1977. Other that being fully automatic the big difference between the SL1300 and SL1650 as far as i can tell is that the SL1300 had a composition plastic base and the SL1650 is all cast aluminum that probably weighs 30lbs!
At the time i purchased the TT, my thoughts were that the aluminum would be more stable and less resonant but I'm now thinking the plastic composition would actually dampen rumble and feedback better.
My 1300 also has an all cast aluminum base. Great turntables!
Great! I thought i heard you warn about stripping the screws in the 'plastic' base.
Any ole way, i think the only way they could improve on these for the price point would have been to reduce the tone arm mass a bit.
I headed later on that most agreed the belly m belt drive better dampened any motor inconsistencies as well as not having the issue of low frequency pulsing created by the DD motor poles.
As you I'm not an upscale audiofile and like most older cats, my hearing has lost some range. I've been a bench tech through all the audio/video had days of the 70's and 80's and into the mid 90's when repairing things all kinda feel apart.
Do mostly musicians stuff as a side line for fun.
Love the videos. Glen
Hi Tony, excellent video, thank you. I just recently purchased an SL-1300 and going through the servicing. When I turned it on the neon lamp worked for about 30 seconds and then died, checked both fuse and 4.7k resistor and both working so must be the bulb. The only problem is they don't make them anymore and can't find an OEM, after market one either. Any suggestions? I have been looking at the NE-2 neon bulb but are very faint so thinking of wiring up 2 of them. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers Rod.
Tony when considering the height of the tracking weight gauge remember the include the thickness of a vinyl record.
That Empire 2000e/III is a great great cartridge. I'd take that cartridge over the new AT cartridge everyday...!!
That's why I left it on the original headshell. I need to order a new stylus.
Thanks for the comment!
@@xraytonyb
Empire styli are very small and highly elliptical. It might only need a very good cleaning. I use "No Residue" ElectroSolve contact cleaner on my Empire 2000e stylus because they are not glued or bonded to the cantilever, but are actually press-fit into a very small opening. They won't move and the cleaner has no effect aside from deeply cleaning the diamond, unlike "bonded" ones like the AT which use adhesives....
Hello from Germany! We use the AT 120eb cartridge in our Technics. It Sounds very good, but it is already not in Produktion Like the At 100 on my Sl Bd 1 .
The higher the quality stylus shape, the important proper tracking is. Conical styluses don't require much if any alignment. Micro ridge or Vanderhull stylus or other high end stylus require alot more alignment angles than you do here. So elliptical is probably a good choice.
Would you be able to do I video on recommended lubes for hifi related uses?
I just found and unboxed my SL-1300 that I bought around 1972 and packed up in 1985 for move to CA! Love your video(s)! Just wondered what the lube and/or oil that you use when you service these guys? Thanks
You don't have to take the speed pots apart to clean.
Great video. I just bought one of these off someone this week. Out of curiosity, where can you find the date of manufacture?
I have this turn table. My problem is with the arm. It immediately floats up and to get it heavy enough to play a record I have to put weights on the top of the cartridge or place bolt washers on the cartridge finger lift. I like to diy, is this something I can trouble shoot and fix? or do I need to bring it in to a shop.
NOOOOO! Don't put weights on top of the headshell! That's why the counterweight on the back of the tonearm screws in and out! Generally speaking, you should be able to adjust it so the weight is perfectly neutral, adjust the indepenently mounted incrementally labelled ring to "zero," then turn the whole weight until the ring reads the tracking weight of the stylus. 1.5 - 2g is usually a good start.
I set my antiskate with a blank record I do use mine for DJing and it helps so it tracks when I am scratching
I have seen aftermarket / htird party feet fairly economically priced, but genuine feet are really darn expensive...... I believe the feet from the 12xx also suit the 13xx.
I understadn your concern about Deoxit, but I would rather use Deoxit than risk damaging the carbon layer in the Potentiometer. I've never had an issue with Deoxit causing a Pot in good condition to go loose. Usually only worn ones would do that. The lubricant from factory is usually an oil, rather than a grease on the pots. They usually move fairly freely when new and get sticky over time as the oil dries out and goes gummy. The "fibre board" should not be lubricated with oils and the like as this can cause it to become conductive, which will affect your speed control. They do not dry out and crack. It is the same material as used for PCB's which you would never oil.
The SL-1300 was a long running series. I believe the original (non-quartz locked) was released in 1975. The Mk2 I believe had the Quartz lock and was released a bit later. Are you sure this one would be from the late 80's? I can't recall how long the original 1300 ran for.
I have had good experience with Sorbothane rubber hemispheres to replace the feet. Deoxit is the way to go!
how do you set the auto stop function? The tonearm on my player stops too early, the record isn't finished yet. please help
The answer must be in the service manual. 99.99% sure.
Never seen anyone disassemble and clean a pot. The problem with CD is that either it plays or does not, the sound quality has no adjustments. There is little or none to see. The record is a beautiful thing to enjoy.
I just acquired one of these turntables that was well taken care of. If there is no problem with the speed, should I skip the cleaning fix you went through?
Can you recommend a specific test disc for the inevitable "by ear" adjustments?
Very well video on your Dusting and Cleaning the Turntable. What would you recommend for using the damping of the tonearm. I have a Pioneer Direct Drive table and the tone arm slams on the record. It does not have the damping like it use to. I am asking if you have ever fixed a turn table with that issue?
There is an area in the cue lever mechanism that uses a small amount of oil for the damping of the arm. In time, the oil dries out/leaks and you need to replace it. There is usually also an adjustment. It's a pretty straightforward process. You can download the service documentation from vinylengine.com and it will guide you through the process for your particular turntable. Thanks for th ecomment!
When you do get it apart and learn how to replace the "damping fluid" Look for 300,000 CST silicone oil. You can get it online or sometimes in RC shops.
Hi Tony
Can you tell us what is tje grease that you use for the pots' wipers? I didn't catch the name. Better yet, how do we select the properties of the product if the one that you mention is not available?
Thank you for another great video.
Cheers
Mark
Caig Deoxit Fader Grease DFG-213
@@xraytonyb Hi Tony,
Thank you. Indeed, my wife was right: I was not paying attention! You showed both products very clearly in the video.
Thanks a lot, I truly appreciate your videos.
Cheers,
Mark
I sent a previous post on another video saying that I purchased an sl-1300 MK2 at an estate sale. It looks so much different than yours. I wonder why Technics used the same model number? Wish I could include a photo
I've noticed a lot of manufacturers do this. Adcom and Pioneer both came out with MK2 versions of gear that were very different from the original.
I could be wrong but I think that Technics used the mk numbers as updates to base models happened. The 1300's are I believe the automatic machines. The 1300mk2 added quartz lock, the same tone arm as the 1200 series, a suspended chassis (don't remember if the 1300 has that or not), and some different electronics. At its core though is that it's the automatic table. They did the same thing with the 1200 and other tables . I think the 1400 series is a semi auto table etc.
@@parrisgeorge9708 Yes I have a collection of most of these SL decks.- 1975/76 saw the 1300 (full auto), 1400 (semi), and 1500 manual. In 77/78 the 1600 replaced the 1300, 1700 (my fave) replaced the 1400, and the 1800 replaced the 1500. Those were the MK1 series. After that, the MK2 series was released with the same model numbers. Of course, the 1200 was also always in the mix too, the MK1 is not really anything like the now-famous 1200 MK2 though.
HEY OM! Why there are no videos of yours on odysee dot com yet ??
The cueing arm on my Technics SL-1300 does not stay up and slowly drops onto the record or into the arm rest. Can you tell me if there is an adjustment for this? Thank you.
The answer must be in the service manual. 99.99% sure.
Can you briefly explain how to identify a damaged stylus? TYIA
First symptom is a muffled sound as if you have a dirty stylus from a sound perspective. Drop the stylus on a piece of magic eraser for the best dry cleaning for verification. The rest is done with a cheap digital microscope.
Perfect! Thank you
I have a Rega Planar 2 that I keep meaning to unpack and start to use again, re ignite my interest in vinyl audio ( dig out my carbon fiber 24 carat gold stitched volume glove ) and I want to make a headphone amp, would be nice to include a phono input...any recommendations as to find a suitable schematic please ?...great tutorial...cheers.
Great video. I just picked up an SL1600, very similar to this. I'm looking for the original OEM headshell. please let me know if yours is for sale in the US
You may find that after market headshells by Ortofon and Jelco are superior to the OEM model. More adjustment ability and better connect wires.
I have that same exact empire cartridge and stylus laying around I pulled off my Pioneer. its still good as far as I know. little high on the sibilance though.
Great Video! I just bought a SL-1300 and video is very helpful.I have tried to find "CRC control cleaner" on the net but I just get "contact cleaner" as search results. Are they the same thing? I really have no clue about such things.
I think what you want is DeoxIT spray, its great for cleaning electronics, then add DeoxIT Grease to lubricate
Whats the headshell that you bought?
Hello and thanks for your explanations. Verry clear. I have the SL-1300 and i've put my new AT VM95-sh/h or AT VM95-ml/h, weight 15,5gr. i am using a digital scales to set 2gr for vertical pressure and when i put the against weight to maximum in front, i have only maximum 1,60gr. What can I do please? Thanks in advance for your advice. Vince
I just ordered the audio technica VT - 95E fir my technica SL 1400.
Oh and meant AT-VM95E.
Do y'all think there is any significant difference between expensive DeOxit Silicone grease and the cheap stuff at the auto parts shop used for spark plug boots? :)
My turntable had very bad wow. I've checked belts, cleaned spindle and idler wheel and oiled them too. What else can I do? The wow is around 2 hz about 1 per revolution of the platter.
Or you could just locate a standard Technics cartridge alignment tool (available on eBay for cheap) and using that you're good to go.
I'm definitely going to order one. I've always used the calipers and I'm just used to it, but those alignment jigs are much simpler.
I ordered one from Amazon and I think it was around 6 or 7 dollars shipped.
I Have A Technics SL- !300 The Light Wont Work on it can you give me some pointers on how to Get that Part
Is it normal to hear surface noise or is it the record when recording
very well explained, thank you sir.
Help: My turntable on the 1300 does not spin when started and light comes on? Is the motor out or am I missing something?
My 1300 is doing the same thing. It worked when I put it up years ago but when I took it back out of the closet a few months ago to start using it again, it wouldn't spin. The light comes on and if I spin it by hand it will lift and cue. Have you found any answer to why yours stopped spinning?