I bought his tools and they actually fit other outboards beside yamaha. My buddy who is a yamaha tech said they are better than the tools he is supplied. Folks these tools are legit and Tyler is as nice as can be. Thanks for making the vids Tyler.
Whoa! This is awesome. So detailed and comprehensive. Since I am new to boating and outboard motors, I lack confidence in tackling this type of task. I also watched your Suzuki 150 work and so great. I also watched others for the same task and just fail so bad in comparison. Your videos explain the logic of the hydraulic/fluid travel between the cylinders and reservoir by watching closely the trim and tilt rods extension and contraction. Excellent video I have the exact 2012 Yamaha F250 and never been serviced or opened up. It has hesitation and I recognized now that I am compressing a pocket of trapped air. No apparent leakage or wetness, and not sure how the air got in. Has to be the age? Regardless, at the moment, I will just do the bleeding and see if seal replacements will be needed. I already purchased the tools you identified just in case. Thank you so much for your videos, and now I have the confidence to do this task and avoid the costly repair by Service Providers.
Best video on TH-cam how to fill the trim tilt your way worked the best at 36:42 in the video took me all day and had no luck my trim tilt was empty this video was life saver thanks 👍👍👍
My 2016 f150 has aluminum trim seals and a metal C clip to hold in. I was scared of putting a screwdriver through my hand then I remembered I had a true oil seal puller. Wrapped strip of heavy rubber around threads so as not damage while cap was in vise. Tightened just enough to hold in jaws. Used puller 90 degrees to jaws and used longer end of puller. No damage and no forcing. Cleaned up with contact cleaner, ready to go. Thanks for your videos.
Tyler you are an amazing Yamaha mechanic you have an awesome way of explaining things and keeping it real and simple. Great video as always thanks for being there for us!
Near the end of an absolute scorching hot day and losing battery on the camera. I was not planning on filming but this was a good demo job since the PTT was pretty much toast. We're filming a much more detailed and narrated tear down in the shop in the next week or so.
Great tools-Worked perfectly. One note however. The pins on the tools are an exact fit for the holes on the spanner nut. When I first attempted to loosen it, it slipped out because the pins were not seated all the way in. Even with the plastic sleeve (great idea BTW). I tapped the spanner wrench with a hammer and it "snapped" in. Removal was easy after that. Also, if you remove the piston to service it on a bench, make you don't drop the two plastic sleeves at the top of the piston as I did.
Excellent video, thank you. I need to replace the seals on my 90 2s. I'm sure that with the info in this video, the task will be much less daunting. There are several tips you've provided that will save a lot of time when I get to the job.
We changed the seals on our 225. but we cant get all the air bled out. We have to leave the manual bypass valve cracked to get the motor to go down completely . One side will retract slowly and then the other side with the valve closed, but the motor won't completely down. And it takes a couple seconds for the trim to start to retract after it finishes the tilt cycle, but with only come half way down.
Hi Awesome video very informative, I have a pair of 2013 Yamaha F350 that i need to tackle, do you have a video for the F350 or is it the same as F250?
masterful bro- i would add its real good to pack those seals with marine grease (if they are double lip), and coat the rams with marine grease when extended.. night and day ito longevity and seals not locking, in the salt world!
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 Hey - so i just replaced 2 used units.. one of them does not always stay up.. ive cycled it, re-checked fluid, bled manually a few times to let it sink down (its only the center ram thats dropping).. no signs of external leaks, are there internal seals that cross leak inside? only other thought it the manual oring leaking but that seems highly unlikely.. on occasion it seems to stop correctly - until i tilt it again - ideas?
Great video however I have a F70 Yamaha 2012 and the gland nut is a Hex cap not with the two holes. I purchased a 1 13/16" crows foot wrench that fits but cannot get the cap loose even with a 4 foot breaker bar. Any ideas, help?
Your videos are the most helpful I have found on the internet! Thank you. Is there a method you use to pull out the piston free/backup ring safely? I saw it but did not pull it out now I’m have issues bleeding. I want to pull it out.
Hey boss quick question. Have a 150hp mercury efi 4 stroke that when you trim up, it doesn't go up high enough to use the manufacturer prop rod. Has plenty of fluid. What would you look at first?
I would trim the motor up as high as it will go on its own power, then put something very sturdy and strong under the nose cone on the lower, so if it drops, it can't go anywhere/crush anything. Then I would let out the manual release valve so that you can move the motor up and down by hand, then try to lift by hand to it highest extent. If the motor lifts right up by hand, to where you can deploy the service locks, I'd lock it in place and take a look at the PTT unit. Sometimes they can air lock even if they are mostly primed with plenty of fluid. This is just a guess though, but if there is no physical obstacle or interference such as a bind in the rigging or a corroded mounting pin etc, the issue almost has to be on the hydraulics
Hi James, we are filming a video of this same unit in the shop. Will feature a complete tear down of everything, all cylinders, pump everything. Probably a couple weeks out from publishing
I replaced the tilt seal and all went perfect except when the motor hits the trim pistons the motor won’t go down any further. The trim pistons continue to retract but can’t get the motor down any further. Any suggestions? Yamaha F225
Pex tubing with 5/8" interior diameter. Its a bit of overkill for most jobs, but really helpful with the stubborn/corroded ones where slippage is more likely.
Is it the same set up for an 04 f200txrc? From the looks of the trim pistons it seems the same. I noticed today my dust seal on my tilt piston seems to be pushed up and is leaking oil out of it. So I’m ordering the piston wrench now i have the pin wrench from when you worked for marine tech and i did my trim seals
Great training video, I would have never tried to rebuild if I hadn't seen this. I first watched your video on Bleeding steering Hydraulics and bought two of your bleeding kits. Local Yamaha shop has been helpful on O rings but if it's not something they have in stock can't hardly get it since Covid-19 hit us. Do you stock the spanner wrench's?
Hi Harold, Thanks for your feedback. We do have all of our Yamaha wrenches in stock at this time, and offer the wrenches from this video as a kit with part number OST-0042. Feel free to contact us anytime if we can assist further.
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 Hello Tyler trim rebuild went very well couldn't have done it on my own.I originally was watching your bleeding video and odered two of the bleed kits because I have twins 225F motors> I'm having problems with the bleeding now that trim is fixed.
Me yelling harden steel screw driver too close to alloy threads of cylinders.way to damage n cross tread when screwing down cap ends.I feel the frustration when doing unit on transom.
What was the symptoms of this tilt/trim unit that made you re-seal it? Mine is sticking in different positions but especially at high trim but seems full of fluid. Trim motor works but motor will not move. Wondering if this is what I need to do.
I've seen other tech's clamp the piston into a vice and hope for the best. The vice will severely gouge the mirror finished piston surface, but as long as the owner never saw the process and gouges weren't bad enough to immediately score the cylinder walls, the unit would usually pass testing and we would get paid (whats a few thousandth's of an inch between friends, or an owner who may never know better). When I saw this vice situation for the first time, I created the piston spanner to avoid rolling the dice with my customer's and my money.
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 thanks for the reply! I was able to remove the piston by putting 2 bolts in the hole, then wedging a screwdriver between the bolts for leverage and it spun right off. I would definitely buy your product if I was a mechanic or planned to tackle this more than once. Seem like some great products!
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 thanks for the reply! I was able to remove the piston by putting 2 bolts in the hole, then wedging a screwdriver between the bolts for leverage and it spun right off. I would definitely buy your product if I was a mechanic or planned to tackle this more than once. Seem like some great products!
I've been looking at how to keep the wrench held tight and keep the pins from popping out; PEX tubing with a wrench!! What a brilliant solution!!
I bought his tools and they actually fit other outboards beside yamaha. My buddy who is a yamaha tech said they are better than the tools he is supplied. Folks these tools are legit and Tyler is as nice as can be. Thanks for making the vids Tyler.
Whoa! This is awesome. So detailed and comprehensive. Since I am new to boating and outboard motors, I lack confidence in tackling this type of task. I also watched your Suzuki 150 work and so great. I also watched others for the same task and just fail so bad in comparison. Your videos explain the logic of the hydraulic/fluid travel between the cylinders and reservoir by watching closely the trim and tilt rods extension and contraction. Excellent video I have the exact 2012 Yamaha F250 and never been serviced or opened up. It has hesitation and I recognized now that I am compressing a pocket of trapped air. No apparent leakage or wetness, and not sure how the air got in. Has to be the age? Regardless, at the moment, I will just do the bleeding and see if seal replacements will be needed. I already purchased the tools you identified just in case. Thank you so much for your videos, and now I have the confidence to do this task and avoid the costly repair by Service Providers.
Best video on TH-cam how to fill the trim tilt your way worked the best at 36:42 in the video took me all day and had no luck my trim tilt was empty this video was life saver thanks 👍👍👍
You're the man! I appreciate this! only real video I could find. Keep em coming!
My 2016 f150 has aluminum trim seals and a metal C clip to hold in. I was scared of putting a screwdriver through my hand then I remembered I had a true oil seal puller. Wrapped strip of heavy rubber around threads so as not damage while cap was in vise. Tightened just enough to hold in jaws. Used puller 90 degrees to jaws and used longer end of puller. No damage and no forcing. Cleaned up with contact cleaner, ready to go. Thanks for your videos.
Awesome, yeah, they switched the F150 trim caps for the model with retaining clips after 2014 if memory serves correctly
Tyler you are an amazing Yamaha mechanic you have an awesome way of explaining things and keeping it real and simple.
Great video as always thanks for being there for us!
Near the end of an absolute scorching hot day and losing battery on the camera. I was not planning on filming but this was a good demo job since the PTT was pretty much toast. We're filming a much more detailed and narrated tear down in the shop in the next week or so.
Nice to watch a man who knows what hes doing thanks for the vid.
I don't even own a boat, I kayak fish. I sat and watched 2 hrs of video. This guy is good.
You're the Scotty Kilmer of outboards! Tools and tips!
Nice. Thank you!
The best breakdown video I’ve seen. Thank you
Thank you for making this video. It went smooth!
Awesome!
Tyler AWESOME video , ty for make the tools and the tips and trick love the pex trick.
Excellent video - learned a few tricks too! Now onto the actual repair! Thank you for a "thorough how to" video.
Excellent explanation, I'm going to tackle this in the spring time. THANK YOU!!!
Great job my man. I will be doing at least the bottom 2 seal replacements here in the next couple of weeks.
Great tools-Worked perfectly. One note however. The pins on the tools are an exact fit for the holes on the spanner nut. When I first attempted to loosen it, it slipped out because the pins were not seated all the way in. Even with the plastic sleeve (great idea BTW). I tapped the spanner wrench with a hammer and it "snapped" in. Removal was easy after that. Also, if you remove the piston to service it on a bench, make you don't drop the two plastic sleeves at the top of the piston as I did.
Just freaking awesome , THANK YOU you made it so easy. This company is awesome
Excellent video, thank you. I need to replace the seals on my 90 2s. I'm sure that with the info in this video, the task will be much less daunting. There are several tips you've provided that will save a lot of time when I get to the job.
Jim, Glad to help in any way. Thanks!
We changed the seals on our 225. but we cant get all the air bled out. We have to leave the manual bypass valve cracked to get the motor to go down completely . One side will retract slowly and then the other side with the valve closed, but the motor won't completely down. And it takes a couple seconds for the trim to start to retract after it finishes the tilt cycle, but with only come half way down.
Excellent video, would recommend you to anyone.
Will you please show us how you remove that little pine inside & from we’re we can buy those tools? Thank you. You are amazing👍🏽
Hi Awesome video very informative, I have a pair of 2013 Yamaha F350 that i need to tackle, do you have a video for the F350 or is it the same as F250?
masterful bro- i would add its real good to pack those seals with marine grease (if they are double lip), and coat the rams with marine grease when extended.. night and day ito longevity and seals not locking, in the salt world!
Many thanks, and yes, grease is an awesome preservative for rubber seals, especially in the salt water environment
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 Hey - so i just replaced 2 used units.. one of them does not always stay up.. ive cycled it, re-checked fluid, bled manually a few times to let it sink down (its only the center ram thats dropping).. no signs of external leaks, are there internal seals that cross leak inside? only other thought it the manual oring leaking but that seems highly unlikely.. on occasion it seems to stop correctly - until i tilt it again - ideas?
Awesome work man! Thanks for the vid!
Thanks for sharing
Great video however I have a F70 Yamaha 2012 and the gland nut is a Hex cap not with the two holes. I purchased a 1 13/16" crows foot wrench that fits but cannot get the cap loose even with a 4 foot breaker bar. Any ideas, help?
Your videos are the most helpful I have found on the internet! Thank you. Is there a method you use to pull out the piston free/backup ring safely? I saw it but did not pull it out now I’m have issues bleeding. I want to pull it out.
Where can I buy that tool for removing the main piston seems to have four hardened steel prongs
Hey boss quick question. Have a 150hp mercury efi 4 stroke that when you trim up, it doesn't go up high enough to use the manufacturer prop rod. Has plenty of fluid. What would you look at first?
I would trim the motor up as high as it will go on its own power, then put something very sturdy and strong under the nose cone on the lower, so if it drops, it can't go anywhere/crush anything. Then I would let out the manual release valve so that you can move the motor up and down by hand, then try to lift by hand to it highest extent. If the motor lifts right up by hand, to where you can deploy the service locks, I'd lock it in place and take a look at the PTT unit. Sometimes they can air lock even if they are mostly primed with plenty of fluid. This is just a guess though, but if there is no physical obstacle or interference such as a bind in the rigging or a corroded mounting pin etc, the issue almost has to be on the hydraulics
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631awesome I'll give this a go next time I'm down at the farm. Thank you so much
Tyler do you have a video on the complete tear down and rebuild of the pump? Great video!
Hi James, we are filming a video of this same unit in the shop. Will feature a complete tear down of everything, all cylinders, pump everything. Probably a couple weeks out from publishing
How did you loosen the pin that’s inside
I replaced the tilt seal and all went perfect except when the motor hits the trim pistons the motor won’t go down any further. The trim pistons continue to retract but can’t get the motor down any further. Any suggestions? Yamaha F225
I have the Yamaha hpdi 250, will the 38mm x 4mm spanner work for my tilt trim hydraulic cylinder cap?
great video thank you. what was that blue hose ?
Pex tubing with 5/8" interior diameter. Its a bit of overkill for most jobs, but really helpful with the stubborn/corroded ones where slippage is more likely.
Can I remove trim&tilt motor like this?or do I have to pull the whole assembly off/down.thanks
Is it the same set up for an 04 f200txrc? From the looks of the trim pistons it seems the same. I noticed today my dust seal on my tilt piston seems to be pushed up and is leaking oil out of it. So I’m ordering the piston wrench now i have the pin wrench from when you worked for marine tech and i did my trim seals
Hi Dominic, it's identical. Yamaha has used that PTT since the late 90's with few changes/updates on all V6 except Vmax/SHO which uses Showa PTT
Great job.
Great training video, I would have never tried to rebuild if I hadn't seen this. I first watched your video on Bleeding steering Hydraulics and bought two of your bleeding kits. Local Yamaha shop has been helpful on O rings but if it's not something they have in stock can't hardly get it since Covid-19 hit us. Do you stock the spanner wrench's?
Hi Harold, Thanks for your feedback. We do have all of our Yamaha wrenches in stock at this time, and offer the wrenches from this video as a kit with part number OST-0042. Feel free to contact us anytime if we can assist further.
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 Hello Tyler trim rebuild went very well couldn't have done it on my own.I originally was watching your bleeding video and odered two of the bleed kits because I have twins 225F motors> I'm having problems with the bleeding now that trim is fixed.
Me yelling harden steel screw driver too close to alloy threads of cylinders.way to damage n cross tread when screwing down cap ends.I feel the frustration when doing unit on transom.
Do you have a video on changing trim sensor on115hp Yamaha four stroke.
What was the symptoms of this tilt/trim unit that made you re-seal it? Mine is sticking in different positions but especially at high trim but seems full of fluid. Trim motor works but motor will not move. Wondering if this is what I need to do.
How much would a job like this go for?
Great video..it help me out. thank you so much
Where can I buy that tool that goes on the seals to turn with wrench...thx
Here is the link for the OST-0013 End Cap wrench: outboardst.com/product/yamaha-suzuki-seastar-spanner-wrench-38mm-x-4mm-stud-ost-0013/
Certainement une très belle explication vidéo, mais quelqu'un pourrait-il faire une traduction en français ? Merci
Super 🎉🎉🎉
Thanks!
Any way to remove the piston without having to buy the spanner tool for $50?
I've seen other tech's clamp the piston into a vice and hope for the best. The vice will severely gouge the mirror finished piston surface, but as long as the owner never saw the process and gouges weren't bad enough to immediately score the cylinder walls, the unit would usually pass testing and we would get paid (whats a few thousandth's of an inch between friends, or an owner who may never know better). When I saw this vice situation for the first time, I created the piston spanner to avoid rolling the dice with my customer's and my money.
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 thanks for the reply! I was able to remove the piston by putting 2 bolts in the hole, then wedging a screwdriver between the bolts for leverage and it spun right off. I would definitely buy your product if I was a mechanic or planned to tackle this more than once. Seem like some great products!
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 thanks for the reply! I was able to remove the piston by putting 2 bolts in the hole, then wedging a screwdriver between the bolts for leverage and it spun right off. I would definitely buy your product if I was a mechanic or planned to tackle this more than once. Seem like some great products!
Were can I buy the tools
At our website Outboardst.com
Speak damn it
Tell that guy to quit honking while you are filming