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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- This video provides detailed instructions for replacing the trim and tilt piston seals on a 2002 Yamaha 90TLRA. If your trim or tilt seals are weeping fluid, this is your video guide.
This video, while rather long, details the full procedure from removal to re-installation of the trim and tilt sub-assemblies from the trim/tilt unit. This particular unit is model 6H1-16 as stamped on the trim/tilt unit. The job is not technically challenging but does require some mechanical knowledge and ability. Allocate plenty of time for the job as it seems every DIY job takes much longer than a trade mechanic who does this on a regular basis.
Shown are:
1. TRIM: remove and reinstall the trim sub-assemblies, replace the trim cap seals, replace sub-assembly O and backer ring.
2. TILT: remove and reinstall the tilt sub-assembly, tear down and rebuild of the tilt sub-assembly including removal of the tilt valve body and the cap, remove and reinstall the valve body parts, replace the tilt cap seal, replace the tilt valve body O and backer ring, replace the tilt valve body internal O and backer ring.
3. FREE PISTON: remove and reinstall, replace O ring.
** This video is not a rebuild of the internal valving of the trim/tilt unit.
Marine Tech Tools (marinetechtools.com) :
MT0004 For Tilt Cap, use with supplied S-4 pins
MT0006 For Trim Caps, use with supplied S-4 pins
A parts diagram may be found at crowleymarine.com or boats.net. Please check the part numbers for your specific engine model. Do not rely solely on the below listing.
Trim Cylinders: (order 2 of each part, 1 is required for each trim assembly)
6H1-43822-10-00 TRIM DUST SEAL (cap)
6H1-43861-10-00 O RING (cap)
6H1-43864-00-00 O RING (trim sub-assembly)
6H1-43874-00-00 BACK UP RING (trim sub-assembly) [ I was advised thru a comment in May, 2021 that the previously listed part, 6H1-43870-00-00 BACK UP RING (trim sub-assembly), was incorrect. After checking two online parts houses, I have updated the parts list to list part 6H1-43874-00-00. The previously listed part number may have been superseded. ]
Tilt Ram and Free Piston: (order 1 of each part)
6H1-43812-00-00 TILT DUST SEAL (cap)
6H1-43861-00-00 O RING (cap)
6H1-43861-10-00 O RING (two required, one for sub-assembly valve body and one for free piston)
6H1-43872-10-00 BACK UP RING (for sub-assembly valve body)
93210-18322-00 O RING (inside sub-assembly valve body)
65W-43871-00-00 BACK UP RING (inside sub-assembly valve body)
Yamaha Performance Trim and Tilt Fluid, 1 qt. required, recommend 2 qts just in case
Additional tools used:
24” long ½” drive breaker bar
Snap ring pliers
Large and small flat head screwdriver
Curved jaw needle nose pliers
Dental pick
T30 Torx bit
5/16” Drill bits (to remove tilt valve body from ram)
17mm socket and ratchet
Deep sockets (used to install seals)
Rubber mallet
Funnel with hose (to fill reservoir)
Bench vise
Turkey Baster (in place of a fluid vacuum pump)
Long reach locking tweezers and rags
Bucket to catch discarded oil
Tidbits of information:
You will see that I removed the trim sub-assemblies and the fluid from the trim cylinders before working on the tilt. That was a mistake that cost time. Loosen the trim caps but do not remove them or the fluid until after you have the tilt sub-assembly and the follower (free piston) removed. If your unit is out of fluid, you will need to add fluid to the reservoir and trim cylinders and recap them to build pressure to remove the follower (free piston).
An afterthought: Instead of using a rubber mallet and deep socket to drive the seals in place as I did, it may be possible to use a bench vise with an appropriate diameter socket if you pad the vise jaws to keep from damaging the cap and are careful about aligning the socket, seal and cap as you close the jaws.
I did not see any thread locker on the tilt ram to prevent the valve body from working off the ram's threads. Make sure you torque the valve body well onto the ram so that it cannot back off. The torx screw does not hold the valve body on the ram.
Thanks again for watching,
~Jim
Good video even when common mistakes were made - that we appreciate you're leaving them in! We learned a good deal from your video Jim. How to and what not to do. A heartfelt thank you!
Joe, thanks for the nice compliment and for watching. Just trying to pass it forward to the next guy... Showing my mistakes hopefully helps others know that its the real deal, how a DIYer tackles a job. Those "mistakes" are very easy to make and hopefully others will now avoid them and save some time. Thanks again.
You showing the learning curve of doing the first time is so helpful. Anyone that tries to do thier own work has been there. Great video than you.
Paul, thank you for watching and the comment. I try to make these DIY videos as real as possible, and like you noted, there is definitely a learning curve. Hopefully others who follow what I've done will avoid a portion of that curve and speed the process up a bit.
Sincerely, you are the only person that actually helped me complete this project. Thanks a ton. 👍
Ray, thank you for that comment. It means a lot to know that the video is still helping others. Glad that you were successful in your project. Jim.
Excellent video and tutorial with all the potential pitfalls a DIY may face. Thank you for taking time to put video together
Pillguy8, thanks for the compliment! Hope it helps!
Once again, your fantastic video has saved the day. With your help, I've fixed all of my trim/tilt issues, from replacing the motor, and now to replacing the seals. Not only have I saved a lot of money, but I have learned a lot as well. I'm not sure if I ever would have gotten that follower out (or even thought to try), without this video. Thank you so very much.
Great news on getting the job completed! Thanks for the nice comments!
Thank you for this video sir. I watched and paused. Very informative and the most important is you posted all part #’s. We appreciate you Jim
Jo, I hope the replacement goes smoothly for you. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I am so impressed all the trouble you went to helping us all to become educated on this job. Especially appreciate showing and talking about what you would do differently. Very honest and nice to see sir!
Daryl, thank you for the nice comment. Just trying to show others that DIY maintenance on these outboards isn't impossible and that with a few tools and some patience, it can be done. My father taught me that I could do just about anything if I set my mind to it. He was like that and wasn't afraid to get his hands dirty. I was glad he was able to see my t/t motor replacement video before he passed. He was very proud of that work - the job and the video editing.
I film these maintenance videos as I am tackling the work. This isn't my profession, so you will see mistakes. When made, I try to point them out and a potential way to avoid them. All in hopes of helping others... passing it forward.
Your step at 35:19 made the lightbulb go off in my head! My 150 has been slowly dropping when tilted up, and when you pointed out the manual drop screw, I went right out to my boat and sure enough I was able to give it a good 1/2 turn to tight. The last service guy must have not tightened it all the way! This saved me a lot of frustration - thank you!!
Thanks for watching and commenting! Glad you were able to solve that issue. Time to go out and enjoy your boat! ~Jim
Great video, being a professional mechanic fixing aircraft I love seeing this whole process. Maintaining almost anything else at home, this helped me tremendously!
Tim, thanks for watching and commenting. I am a DIYer when time, skill level and tools make sense and like to help others to perform tasks as well. Glad this one helps.
Followed these instructions to re seal a 70 BETO 2 stroke, went smoothly!
Jade, thank you very much for watching and commenting. Very glad the job went smoothly!!!
Great video - thanks Jim. Tackled this job today and everything was just as you noted. All is back together and working great. The only thing I might add is I “pressed in” the top seals using the vice and a socket vs. hitting them in with a hammer. Much easier to control and the pop right in with just a little force.
Thanks again.
Christopher, thank you for commenting that you successfully completed the seal replacements! Using a vice for installing the seals was a good alternative.
Thanks Jim for the good video on the power tilt and trim.I finally got to watch some body else who knows what they're doing.Keep them coming.
John, thanks for the compliment and for watching/commenting. I'm a DIYer and try to do all the service work myself. I don't like paying others for work I feel can be done at home, and in regards to the KW much quicker than having the boat down for weeks or months. I don't know everything about these motors and I'm sure will make mistakes and not know shortcuts that a seasoned mechanic would use. Nevertheless, I get the job done. Again, many thanks for the compliment.
Nice work Jim. You knocked it out, a lot more involved than I would have guessed.
Thanks Christian. Trim seals are a piece of cake once you get the caps off. The tilt a bit more involved. Now you've a video guide should you ever need to do similar. And of course, I know you've place a call too!
This video was helpful to me. I only needed to do the tilt function. I received a 3-pin spanner and even with trying to hold the spanner snug against the cap holes by hand, it still started to spin off and the holes started to chip loose.
A couple issues I noted after closer inspection: 1) I had not cleaned the holes enough. If these are not clean, the pins won't seat cleanly. 2) Because the caps were starting to corrode, including the pin holes, I needed a sure method of keeping the spanner snug to the caps while also not damaging the tilt shaft. I accomplished this by purchasing an 18mm shaft collar. Ruland P/N MCL-18-F from Grainger. About $10. This collar tightens on the side rather than driving a set screw into the shaft.
I used a seal picking tool (curved icepick end) to scrape out crud from the holes, then blew them out with compressed air. Once they looked fairly clean, the spanner snugged in much better. Next step was to slip the shaft collar down the shaft and snug against the top of the spanner with a 4MM T-handle hex wrench.
I used a 24" torque wrench to loosen, since my 12" breaker bar was not up to the task. Took some slow steady pressure but the caps broke free. Had to reposition the spanner multiple times, meaning I had to loosen then re-tighten the shaft collar several times. BUT, I did get the caps off without further damage to the pin holes. Upon inspection, the caps were both too far gone to re-use due to corrosion beneath the dust seals, but at least I didn't eliminate the ability to get them off by ruining the pin holes which would have forced a replacement of the whole Showa unit. Two new caps have been ordered that come with all the seals installed, and that should greatly speed up completion time.
Remember to release pressure from the manual screw before taking the caps off...hydraulics under pressure. That would be a counter-clockwise turn of the manual screw until it won't turn any more.
Ross, glad the video helped. I had to resort to a longer breaker bar to break my caps free, as I believe I mentioned in the video. Those pin holes do need to be clean to help the spanner wrench stay seated.
Dear Jim, thanks a lot for your video! It really helped us to repair our outbound. Wish you all the best
Ivan, thank you for watching and for your comment. Very glad you were able to get the outboard repaired. ~Jim
I echo what others have already said before. Great video and thanks for taking the time to put a very well described and detailed explanation together! I sympathize with you on the rain timing as it seems to happen to me when I’m doing some thing like this too. Now I’ll try my Honda tilt unit.
Gretchan, thanks for the compliment and for watching. I hope that this video helps you with your upcoming Honda project.
This video is great! I needed to replace the tilt piston seal but the schematic for my 1994 85 hp Yamaha doesn't show the seal, o ring, or back up ring as separate items. Turns out that your tilt trim assembly is the same as mine so I was able to get the parts by searching for the part numbers on the packages of your parts. And thanks for the detailed disassembly!!
Jack, thanks for the nice comment. I can't say that the parts would be the same. If you check your outboard on boats.net, you may find they are. Regardless, they or the folks at crowleymarine.com, another internet parts site, should be able to give you guidance and fix you up.
@@JimMFishing I did exactly that! Thanks again!
Thank you so much for showing this. It’s the perfect tutorial video and you detailed everything. Much appreciated from Alberta, Canada!
John, Thanks for the nice compliment. Glad it helped!
Great video, I ordered my seal kit today and I think it will go a lot better after watching your video, thank you for sharing it 🛶🎣
Thank you for watching and commenting. Patience is key, don't rush any part of the job. ~Jim
@@JimMFishing Yes sir you’re welcome
Best video I've seen on doing this job, thank you Jim! I just broke loose my TnT caps, which is hopefully the hardest part. Using Five Star Marine wrenches, but i think the MAP torch, CRC Freeze-Off, and the upside down office duster were just as important tools!
Wow, Michael. Sounds like you were going to get those caps off no matter what!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I love how simple step by step you did the process I am getting ready to reseal a hyd unit on a customers 225 2001 Yamaha and I am a little nervous I have never done one. I have done Marine repair for over 20 years but never done complete unit I did one years ago but just replaced the ram seals but its been so long I forgot how. Good job thank you
Roger, That's a big compliment coming from someone in the business. Thank You!
I'm sure it'll all come back to you as you get into the job. The unit on that larger unit may be a little different but the main points will be the same. The true key to a successful job is the correct wrench for the caps. Purchasing new trim caps isn't the worst thing that could happen should they get marred, but that tilt cap cannot be purchased separately from what I understand. Be real careful with that one.
All the best,
~Jim
@@JimMFishing I got the unit resealed but I put a bid in for new rams for the trim and the tilt I didn't want to take a chance on replacing the seals and there be some abrasion on the rams that might damage the new seals the customer was good with it. Here is a heads up. The tilt motor was fried so that was part of the bid on the unit was a new tilt motor. I checked my source for a Yamaha tilt motor its is back ordered was back ordered last month and this month they don't know when or if they will get one in. I went on API website they have after market motors . I did not have the customers boat here to look at it when I was trying to get parts for it. API website gave one motor from 98 to 2003 they said a three bolt will fit all 225 and 250 hp Yamahas for those years. Well took their word for it and ordered the motor had the customer bring back the boat tore everything down. Guess what? API website is wrong I did not have a three bolt mounting I had a four bolt mounting completely different motor and mine is a 2001 made in 2000. I had to tell the customer they sent the wrong motor and I had to order the right one and its two weeks out . I was a stressed mess last week because he works three weeks on and a week off and he wanted to take out his kid fishing but he was totally cool with it . Lesson learned don't take a companies word for it check your part numbers and double check ! I have the unit out and he came and picked up his boat to store it back in his garage its a really nice boat I don't want anything to happen to it . Keep up the good work don't change a thing on your videos
Thank you for the vid Jim. I have a 70hp but it has the same parts in the trim mech as the 90hp. One thing I did differently to retrieve the tilt piston follower was to blast small quick squirts of air from the air compressor into the bolt refill point whilst having the trim pistons and caps in place. Take care as it will shoot any remaining hydraulic fluid out from the refill and tilt housing if you use too much air. I just placed a rag over the whole assembly while doing it. After 5 or 6 squirts I could grab the follower.
....Ok scrap that, I just checked and the follower is made from steel so just use an earth /strong magnet to pull it out. Use something like a magnetic bolt retriever or I just made one by jb welding a small earth magnet onto the end of an old extendable radio aerial I had laying around. I would remove the refill point bolt or the trim piston caps to equalize the pressure and reduce suction.
Thanks again.
Thanks for watching and commenting. It looks like you figured out another DIY means of getting that follower out. Might as well since you're that far into the unit.
Did you use the same wrenches he used? I have a 70 Yamaha 2 stroke and trying to make sure these wrenches fit before I order them! Thanks!
Damn that rain ! Always when you have things apart ! Thanks for the video, I am about to strip my trim assembly. Very grateful to you 👍
SK, It always seems to rain on me when I'm working on a boat project. You can see it in some of my other videos. Guess that's on par for S Florida. Maybe I should leave boat projects for the dry season?
Good video. One thing to mention, to ease the removal of the wiper seals replace the caps on the unit(without the rams) and it will hold it and make it a breeze to pop them out.
T Cap, a good suggestion for future viewers! Thanks for watching and commenting.
thank you for posting, doing my f250 right now, this video saved me
David, Thanks for watching and commenting. Your unit may be a little different, but the procedure is probably very similar. All the best with the project.
Great video thanks for sharing. I also liked seeing the rain challenges, that's real world boat work right there. Nice job! I need to do twin 225's and now that I know what I'm getting into I think it should go smoothly. Thanks
Thanks for watching! Living in S Florida and working outdoors, there is the real risk of a shower passing thru. Seems every project I tackled this spring brought rain. Maybe that's the new "rain dance" for the 21st century?
The specialized tools are the only way I would tackle this job. Trim caps I know can be replaced, tilt cap on mine cannot. Check on your model to see beforehand just so you do know. If the tilt cap cannot be independently purchased, you'll need to be extremely careful not to damage it else you'll be looking at a whole subassembly and $$$.
Just helped a friend do that on his boat. Saves money doing it yourself.
Mine had been weeping for a while and I finally just committed to getting them replaced. With the proper tools, it isn't that bad of a job.
Very helpful video, and thanks for leaving the couple mess ups, it helps understand the process better by knowing the little mis-steps. I am going to rebuild mine now. Thanks
Troy, thanks for the comments. Take your time and you'll get the job done.
Jim, thank you for this video and all the others you’ve produced!
Andrew, thank you very much! I hope they have guided others well.
Well done and thanks for taking the time to do this. Your earlier video inspired me to take a swing at the trim motor replacement. Old one out, new one painted and ready to go in. While removing the old one, I found the fluid to be milky.. Soo, its back to the parts book to look up the seals... May have to punt and let a pro handle the seals. You have a lot of patience! Thanks again for the detailed, informative video!
Thanks for the comment and compliment. Which ever route you go, I would attend to that fluid issue soon. Water could cause internal corrosion that would be more costly the longer you wait.
Thanks Jim! Nicely done video. I'm going to use this as a guide to do my F90 tilt/trim seals.
Thanks Mark for the compliment. I can’t say that the t/t unit on your 4s will be identical but like you said should be a good guide. I highly recommend investing in the specialty wrenches that fit your model’s caps. While not cheap, they are made to get the job done correctly and eliminate a lot of worry for a DIYer. Wishing you every success on the task.
Loved your video, your one in a million, you could visit a million homes nowadays, and you might find one home that would have a wooden clothesline pins,
Not sure what you meant but thanks for the compliment.
OK, your comment had me quite curious, so I panned thru the video to see if there were clothespins shown. Sure enough, there they were.
If you'll notice, there are holes drilled into the ends of the clothespins. They are used as a poor man's release clip for bridge fishing with a two pole system.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great video Jim. I cannot for the life of me get the seals out of the caps. Sliced my hand a few times now trying.
Robert, sorry to hear of your injury. As you could see in the video, patience and persistence is what worked for me. Just be careful not to scratch the metal of the cap.
Great video! I like your Sig workmat as well. My kind of guy apparently. My pivot pin and sleeve seized and the Hydraulic shift bent and broke off. I'm going to try to buy an entire assembly to drop back in. Also have to work on getting the pin out. C clamp didn't work yet.
Bob, thanks for the compliment on both the video and other interests. Wishing you success with the project!
Great video with all the detailed info! Thank you!
10ring, thank you for watching and commenting. Comment back and let everybody know how the job went.
Thanks Jim..Absolutely love my 1720.Think I'm just gonna go ahead and do the rebuild you just did.If the orings are worn out I think that could cause pressure loss and engine drop.Thanks to you I know which tools and parts I need👍
L I Digga - sounds like a good plan.
I appreciate your thoroughness. Having the pin wrench is a necessity.
Thanks for the comment, Shawn. Yes, the pin wrenches make the job MUCH easier. I was told that the trim caps are oftentimes removed using a chisel which requires a cap replacement. The tilt cap cannot be replaced without purchasing the entire sub-assembly so you definitely would not want to use a chisel on it (unless a trim cap from another model engine would substitute). Besides, the cost of two trim caps will pay for the pin wrench.
Great video, very detailed and very satisfying to watch. Awesome job! 👌 Thank you. I liked the rain effects, made it very dramatic and very well placed towards the end..LOL just kidding...Blessings. 👍
JD, thanks for the compliments! It just shows what every backyard DIYer in south Florida has to deal with.
Great job documenting. I like showing the pains you went through. I just replaced my motor only and having problems raising it off the service stops. The trim pins are all the way down and fluid is coming out of the fill hole. Motors runs but no lift….
Thanks for watching and commenting!
For your issue, have you fully bled the air out of the system? Also, be sure to close the manual release screw when bleeding, otherwise it will not build up pressure.
@@JimMFishing Thank you. sitting up on the service stop, i could not raise or lower it. Once I lowered the motor off the service stop, then I was able to lift it. Went up and down a few times while filling on the way up seemed to do the trick. Your video was an excellent guide. thanks for your help.
@@skunkedagain Glad you got it figured out and working! Time to go enjoy the boat!
Thanks for the video, there's a lot of videos out there but yours is the most informative by far! Because of your video I started with the tilt ram first so I could get the tilt parts out by using the trim motor which I wouldn't have known to do had I not have watched your video first. This is the first response I've ever done but your video was so much help I just had to say thanks!
Thank you for the comment and compliment! Glad it worked out for you. Showing the mistakes that I made hopefully is saving viewers some time and headaches.
Thanks for the video Jim. Don't have the 90, but got some good ideas for my project! My 06 F150 pops when in reverse, tilt seals leaking, so I am looking at replacing all seals and o-rings. You video helped me think things through. Appreciate it!
Thanks, JPL. I hope your project turns out well.
really good video mate, thanks very much from the UK
Very much appreciate your watching, and commenting!
Excellent video - extremely helpful and detailed. Just finished this same process on my motor.
Thanks Matthew. Glad the video helped.
Absolutely brilliant video. Thanks for taking the time to make it - I learned a lot. I would have loved to see how you got the valve assembly off of the tilt ram using the vice. You mention it but don’t actually show it.
Herman, thanks for the compliment and for watching. Unfortunately, I was having some issues with my camera and did not realize that it had stopped recording during that part of the exercise. You may find some additional information in the comments as I believe I may have elaborated a bit more for a viewer. It has been a bit too long to be able to recall specifics on that portion of the work to feel able to write it out.
That looked like a mission to repair. Too many moving parts for me but glad you were able to get it all together better than new.
You know it. I don't mind tackling these type of projects, something my father instilled in me early on. Worst case, I send the parts to a Yamaha mechanic and let them do the job. As I replied to Wayn, I now have the tools should I ever have to repeat the project. I shouldn't have to for maybe ten plus years?, but I'll have those tools (if I can then find them!).
Great video Jim!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Very meticulous, detailed and organized. The gear head in me loved every minute of this. Could use another mechanic at the shop....hint hint lol I see your a Sig Sauer man as well 😉
Thank you, Sir! I'm a DIYer as much as I can be. I appreciate the job offer but I'm about done with cars. Remember, this outboard is 18 years old, a pretty basic power machine without all the extras the new engines have on them. There's no way I'd begin to work on the EcoBoost in the Ranger! (And I see you're watching the sidelines too!)
Even the part where he used a torque wrench to remove the end cap?
Great video! Just one tip....use a bit of heat and they will screw off much easier!
iHymns, thanks for the compliment and tip!
Nice video that was very descriptive! Thanks for putting the tool part numbers in there too. I have been trying to find a good set and now I have!
Thanks for the compliment. These tools are very well made and have replaceable pins should you snap one like I did. Use a 24" 1/2" drive breaker bar to ease into the pressure as it helps keep the tool in the proper position on the cap.
great job / I have to do the same here in germany next week / with this excellent describtion 50% of the work is still done / THX
Jetzt, glad you came across the video and want to thank you for the compliment. Wishing you an easy, successful replacement project!
This convinced me to take mine to the boat man
Terry, for some that is a very smart decision and I find no fault in your doing so. For those who are a bit of a DIYer, the job can be done if you invest in a few tools, practice patience and have the time to see it thru. All the best and thanks for watching!
It’s unfortunate because where im at in canada any boat fixer will have it for the whole summer. Hey jim i have a 115 yamaha 1987 do you think this trim unit would be the same im hoping so because looks like the same one.
You are a wonderful person . Congratulations on this work. Excellent
Thank you very much!
Thank you Jim very great full for the video it has helped me complete my project motor rebuild thank you 🙏👍
Guerino, Thank you for commenting and for the compliment. Very glad the video helped you get the rebuild completed. ~Jim
Great video sir. I like your style
Thank you for watching and I appreciate your comment. I try to keep it as real as I can. I am obviously a backyard mechanic, not a trained or certified mechanic.
great job , helped me a lot with my Tohatsu m70 two stroke , subscribed
Mon Ton, I'm glad it helped. Many thanks for watching and subbing.
Great job Jim. Thanks for the video.
Mo C - thank you. I believe this is the only video out that is specific to these outboards. Hope it helps.
Great video. Luv the turkey baster
Thanks for watching and for the comment. Sometimes you just have to find something that will work!
Great video and Info!
Thanks for the compliment!
Great video. It help me a bunch.
Glad it helped! Thanks for commenting.
This may sound funny but my paren told me if something is hard to break loose. Try tightening it first then break it loose it works
Paul, your parents advice is true in many situations. I've done so myself numerous times.
Thanks for watching and commenting, ~Jim
Great video.
Thank you Michael. If you tackle the job, I hope it helps. ~Jim
Very well done. Thank you so much
Hernz, thanks for watching and for the nice compliment.
Great video! Please correct the wrong part number from 6H1-43870-00-00 BACK UP RING (trim sub-assembly) to 6H1-43874-00-00 BACK UP RING (trim sub-assembly).
Andreas, thank you for the compliment and comment. I have researched the "wrong" part number and believe you are correct. There may have been a parts number change since I performed the work. Regardless, I will notate the description to provide this information. Many thanks, ~Jim
@@JimMFishing if you pause your video at 13:12 you can see the part number of the back up ring ends with 74 ;) Thank you for your video! Have ordered all the parts and will use your tutorial to fix my Yamaha C85TRLU tilt and trim as soon as the parts arrive!
@@andreaslyng - Andreas, thank you! You are correct on that part number I used. I don't know how I made that mistake, and no one else has brought it to my attention. I've corrected it in the description.
Be sure that you order the correct parts for your particular T/T unit based on the outboard model number. They are not all the same.
Again, many thanks!
@@JimMFishing I ordered all my part at Crowley Marine with the C85TRLU list, so hopefully Ill get it right. Ill keep you posted! Would love to see more engine maintenance videos from you in the future! :) Have a great day!
Great job
Antonio, thank you for the compliment and for commenting.
Great Video I have the same unit. My question is which way did you turn the valve assembly using the pry bar? Lefty Loosey? Also there is a small ram screw in the valve assembly, did you remove it? Other than that, it was very helpful.
Dan, the caps have standard threading, ie lefty loosey. As for the "small ram screw", if I did not show it in the video, I did not remove it. Thanks for commenting and for the compliment!
Good Job Jim
Thanks! It's been 8 months and no weeping at the seals. Clean job.
Just remember that different sized engines have different seal part numbers. :)
Very true, Whitney. The part numbers listed in the description are for a 2002 90TLRA. Thanks for watching and commenting!!!
Excellent tutorial on replacing seals on TNT. But, to much talk about the rain.
Johnny, thank you for commenting, and for the compliment. Oh, the rain. Living in Miami, we deal with it almost daily from May to November. It’s a part of our life.
@@JimMFishing lol, I live NW of Orlando so I know the monsoon season in Florida
thanks
Thanks for the compliment!
What a fantastic and informative video. Definitely gives me the confidence to take on the project myself. One question/observation though. Considering you had to re-install the trim rams to push out the cup for the tilt, would it be a time saver to rebuild them first and completely re-install them and then tackle the tilt ram? It seems that would save a bit of time. Thanks again for such a cool video!
Apologies for a late response. Not knowing that removing the trim rams would prevent using the hydraulic pressure to push the tilt follower out was my time killer. I think the best scenario is to barely loosen the trim caps, remove the tilt cap and ram, use the hydraulics to remove the follower and then remove the trim rams.
Great video!! I’ve been watching repeatedly over the last week to change my seals. So I reassembled and still leaking..
I’m looking for a new tilt cap not trim but tilt..
any pointers on this piece? I have a 1994 TLRS.. can I cross reference any schematic part with 6H1?
Thanks for the help in advance.
Allen, the tilt cap is not available as a separate piece. If you look at an exploded parts diagram, you will see that it is only available as an assembly. That is unfortunate as I am sure, there are many who would have liked to have purchased just the tilt cap, like you can do with the trim side of the unit.
Awesome video do you happen to know what prop u are running on ur boat ? And pros and cons of it thx
TB, thanks for commenting and for the compliment.
The prop is a Rapture 13.25 x 15 SS. The rapture series was made by Michigan Wheel. I do not believe it is still available. I have no pros or cons on this prop, other than it has performed flawlessly on this 90 2s on my Key West 1720 cc.
Qeustion. How was the piston on the bottom of the tilt ram removed? Did it slide off or did you have to twist/rotate t off with the drill etc. I.E. was the end of the tilt rod threaded? My lower puck is staked on, no middle screw to undo to remove it. Very frustrating.
Starlight, the bottom end of the tilt shaft is threaded and the piston is threaded on. I had some camera issues when removing the piston (puck as you described it) and did not capture the process. I did stage the scene, so to speak, to show how I accomplished it. First, the ball bearings and springs have to be removed from the piston so that the holes are clear (shown in the video). Then, with the top of the tilt piston in a vise and using a properly fitted drill bit and a Phillips screwdriver in two opposite holes (no slack that could damage those holes!), I used a pry bar between them to break the bond and unthread the piston (staged to show the setup).
Hope this helps.
I have a Yamaha 70 2 stroke. Those wrenches you used should fit mine right? Just making sure before I order it
RBBz, I’d call the company to confirm. The wrench size will vary with different models and/or years.
Hey so ive got my trim pump all apart, but the main cylinder, the tilt ram, does not have the t30 torq screw to get it apart, it seems to be some kind of press fitting and not a screw/bolt.. am i missing something? Motor is a 98 i believe
Kevin, it may be a different design from the unit on my '02. I wouldn't think so, but who knows. Have you looked at an exploded parts diagram for your specific model T/T unit?
this looks identical to my evinrude 120hp tilt/trim
Interesting. I'm sure there are similarities between the various manufacturer's units, possibly even sourced from the same supplier?
@@JimMFishing I have been trying endless hours to identify what year my engine is so I can order a tilt/trim seal kit for it but still stumped, its BE120TLCDC if you have any suggestions.
@@merlin1346 Go to boats.net, select Evinrude then 120hp. Based on their data (and excluding the B in the front of the data you provided), it appears to be of 1986 vintage. This is most likely for outboards sold in the USA. If you are international, that B in front could indicate something entirely different. If you are in the USA, you could call them and ask - they have great customer service.
@@JimMFishing yes I am in the UK and the boat is a Glastron SSV-167 bowrider. Thank you Jim.
Any suggestions how to re-thread the trim fluid reservoir? Threads got busted by previous owner and the plug wont come out.
I honestly would be guessing. If you can apply pressure behind the head to help the threads as you turn it, it may come out. I’d consider retapping the reservoir if you can extract the plug. Wishing you success, Jim
very nice vid. about to take on this exact repair. what was the purpose of removing the ball bearings and springs and such...didnt really see a reason as not really any parts needed. i think im gonna not do that part. but very informative vid, thank you
Natural State, the only way to replace the seal on the tilt cap is to remove the tilt cap. That cap cannot be removed unless you unthread the bottom piston. To remove the bottom piston, you must remove the ball bearings, springs etc so that those holes are available to unscrew the piston from the shaft. You cannot use anything that would grip the external sides of the piston to unscrew it from the shaft as you would ruin it.
As a DIYer, it is a pain but it is what it is. You do not want to have to replace that assembly (subcomponent parts are not available).
@@JimMFishing gotcha....so all that was just for that dust cap on top. gezzzz.....fun fun
@@naturalstatepoolandspallc338 Correct. Much more difficult than the trim cap seals.
If that tilt wipe seal is weeping, this is the only way to replace it. Might as well get it done so that you don't contaminate/sheen the waters you're fishing in!
@@JimMFishing yeah, mines not weeping....but going that far into it....mine as well replace it too. thank you!
One of the trim caps slid right off but the second one absolutely will NOT come off. Any ideas why one slid right off and the other will not come off even with a hammer and pin trying to drive it out?
Michael, most likely corrosion. If you take the unit to a Yamaha mechanic, they'll likely use a chisel on the cap to get it to rotate / break free. Its easier for them and they get to sell you a new cap (except for the tilt cap which is not available as a separate item). I'm not saying you should resort to this, only pointing out what a local certified mechanic told me.
Excellent video you helped me a lot but you forget to tell where to buy parts I hate west marine
Same, thanks for watching and commenting. You can find the parts at internet venders such as boats.net, crowleymarine.com, or simyamaha.com.
Hey Jim, great video. Could you provide a little more detail about how to remove the valve subassembly from the tilt ram using the drill bit and screwdriver with a pry bar. Thanks in advance
Connor, sorry for a late response. I don't know why YT didn't notify me of waiting comments.
I inserted a tight fitting drill bit and phillips screwdriver into the holes in the valve assembly. A good portion of each was extending outside of the holes. I inserted a pry bar between the drill bit and screwdriver and used it as a lever against both to unscrew the valve assembly off the tilt ram.
Good evening i have a key west 1720 sportsman boat and i need to know if the FLOW-MAX BALL SCUPPER CLEAR works. Thank you very much and keep making videos about these fantastic boats
Alberto, yes they work. Keep in mind that these boats will still get your feet wet even with a working scupper if they are submerged for a long enough period of time. The ones on my 1720 may be original from the factory?? Anyway, I bought some plugs and plug the drains as part of my pre-launch routine. No more wet feet unless the water enters from another direction.
@@JimMFishing thanks
My repairshop says they don't change this gaskets due to the very high risk it's going to leak after in near feture. Do you know why they said sO?
Thanks for watching and for commenting. I have no idea why a repair shop would make that statement. If the job is done correctly, the seals will last a long time. I'm over four years now and no weeping.
One of the best videos I've seen but don't think my boat is worth the work.
Roy, thanks for that compliment. It is much appreciated. Only you can decide whether the rig is worth the effort. Keep in mind that weeping seals will put a sheen on the water, both polluting and potentially decreasing the area's fishing results. Mine were weeping enough that I did not want to contaminate my fishing grounds. Besides, adding tranny fluid 2-3 times a year was just an aggravation (lets not discuss potential pollution from the exhaust from the 2 stroke).
@@JimMFishingThanks, good to know, I will definitely keep that in mind.
Great Video! I've got the same boat, 2005 motor and the same issue. Excellent walk through, can I rent your spanner sockets? Haha Take Care! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Ryan, thanks for the comment and compliment. I hope that it helps others and saves some headaches by seeing some of the first time DIY mistakes I made.
Thank you Ji,! I have to tackle this project myself. Do you or anyone else recommend doing tilt and trim both or just the tilt piston> The dust cap on my tilt piston is the only thing leaking and this is one of the things Yamaha does not have a complete kit for. Thinking of going with the 5Star Marine kit as it is complete. Or... can any say if its cheaper to buy all the o-rings individually? By the way... can I borrow your tools? They're the most expensive part of the job! LOL Great video!
Apologies for such a delay in commenting. I have no idea why your comment did not previously show. Hopefully you have already successfully completed this task.
I had seepage from both so I replaced them. If you don't have seepage, there is no real reason to possibly create a problem. That said, the seals do age and while your hands are in there, you may as well do them all.
No, I do not loan out my tools. I learned that lesson several decades ago.
@JimMFishing I was kidding about the tool part. LOL I did the job a few months back having followed your instruction from the video. I bought the tools and a 5 Star Marine kit and did all three. I really worked myself up about getting the caps off. Fortunately for me they had been done at some time in the past so they were not still at the "Factory tighter than hell torque settings" anymore. Really a rather simple job after you showed us the way. Thank you so much for giving all of your fellow DIYers confidence in doing something like this. Expensive ($225 with parts and special tools) but not as expensive as having it done in a boat shop.
@@mapquest681 Thanks for coming back and letting us know you successfully completed replacing all the caps. Yes, the cost of the tools is high. But as you stated, the investment allows you to save quite a bit over boat shop prices AND you're not waiting for potentially months without being able to use your boat. If those seals ever leak again, the next replacement will be much less expensive!
Good Job!! ~Jim
Hey Jim where did you buy your tilt and trim rebuild parts from
Tim, it’s been a while since I did that job. The parts were bought from either boats.net, crowleymarine.com.
Good job.
Thanks, Joel, for both watching and commenting.
my tilt trim unit wont push down the trim rods. it goes up and down but wont go down past the trim rods. If I stand on the motor it pushes it down slightly
Noah, sounds like there may be an internal problem? Have you tried releasing the pressure on the unit by the manual release screw?
@@JimMFishing yes, it works just fine with the manual release
Excellent video any idea of a website i can order the seals from
Thanks for the compliment! There are numerous online venders in the US. I use boats.net and crowleymarine.com
Jim - why did you disassemble to bottom of the tilt piston? Couldn’t you have just simply slid the O-rings over and into the journals?
John, if you are replacing only the O rings that might be possible. The seepage on my unit was occurring from the cap seals (think ram/piston seal), not the cap O rings which seal the cap to the housing. You have to disassemble the entire tilt subassembly to remove the piston to remove/replace the cap seal.
Where is link for parts? Great video!!
Thanks for watching and commenting, Brooks. The cap removal wrenches were from marinetechtools.com. The Yamaha parts can be ordered online thru boats.net, crowleymarine.com and simyamaha.com, or from your local Yamaha parts center. A full list of tools / parts is in the video description.
I want that 90 😁
Dave, This one isn’t available.
@@JimMFishing Was just being cheeky bud. I'm in Aus. I have a 55 but id love a 90
@@daveperryLXXVII - no worries. I figured as much. Yamaha no longer sells 2s outboards in the US but do sell them elsewhere in the world. I’d like to get hold of a new 90 2s if this one ever lets me down in a major way but cannot import one due to US regulations. ☹️
@@JimMFishing Same here. No more selling of 2s here in Aus either. Phasing them out for ssme reasons.
I did this with a 150 today and I thought that I had it done but when I lowered it down, now it won't go up at all. Not really sure what to do next but I guess first step is to find a group of guys to help me tilt it back up
coondogg8900 - several questions: did you close the manual release screw? Can you hear the motor running? Did you top off the reservoir before lowering?
@@JimMFishing the trim motor is running and I had closed the manual release. I'm wondering if I didn't put enough trim fluid in the tilt cylinder when I was re-assembling? My motor is the 2005 150 4 stroke so the fill screw is different. After it wouldn't work I used the car jack to jack the motor up just enough to get to that fill screw. I tried to pump some fluid in there but didn't have any luck. I've given up for the day but I have to first figure out how to get this motor back into the up position and onto the maintenance brackets and then I can try to mess with adding more fluid. Big mistake letting it all the way down. Way to heavy to get back up by myself.
@@coondogg8900 - You may want to try to tighten the manual release screw again. Sometimes it will not allow for full closure until after the t/t motor is bumped a couple of times. Whatever you do, don't over tighten it - that would be an expensive repair.
If that doesn't help, when you do get the motor on the service locks, run the t/t motor while you are filling the reservoir. This will help to get as much fluid pumped into the system as you can. You might find that it will lift the motor off the service locks if filling while running the t/t motor. Don't run the motor more than ~30 seconds or so at a time as they are not designed for continuous running.
When filling the reservoir, you want the transom as vertical as possible. Any tilt to the rear prevents getting a full fill. On mine, I lower the trailer tongue until the coupler is on the ground. I use a scissor jack to effect it.
@@JimMFishing thank you for your tips. I will try these out sometime in the next few days.
@@JimMFishing I was able to get the motor up on the maintenance brackets with some help. While I was out there I pulled off the tilt cap and added a bunch of fluid. I would hit the button on the motor and watch it suck the fluid down ( into the trim cylinders?). I added some more then closed it. After this the trim pistons finally started working but the tilt hasn't yet. I lowered the trailer tongue down to the ground for all this. I'm going back out to the boat tonight (it's at a storage facility) to try and add some more fluid and get this pump to prime/bite.
Great video. I have a Yamaha 140 and the check valve that is the allen key is located between both lower rams. Can this part be replaced or do you know if it's a new Trim and Tilt Assembly. I have to do an O Ring and well done on the video.
Cormac, unfortunately I do not know. I'm just a DIYer who isn't afraid to work on my own equipment. You may want to refer to an exploded parts diagram that can be viewed at either crowleymarine.com or boats.net. You'll need to know the model designation for accuracy. Best of luck, ~Jim
@@JimMFishing appreciate the reply and keep up the videos. I'm a DIY person myself as well. Thanks again for taking time out to reply.
Hi Jim. Is there a torque requirement when you put the tilt and trim caps back on? If so, what would that be?
Kit, Thanks for watching and commenting. Yamaha specs the tilt cap torque at 80 Nm/58 ft lb and the trim caps torque at 70 Nm/50 ft lb.
I have a problem with my trim. I have already put everything back on and it keeps failing me, which may be
Juan, your comment was not finished. I don't know what you were saying. My only suggestion based on what I can see is whether you tightened the manual release valve that is accessed thru the outboard mounting bracket.
Hi
How much oil you have in trimcylinder ?
How hard Nm for the bults?
Thanks for your video
Micke from 🇸🇪
Micke, I ordered 2 quarts of fluid to be sure I had plenty and believe I could have made do with only 1 quart. As to the Nm on the bolts, which bolts are you referring to? The fluid reservoir nut is 3-7 Nm per the service manual depending upon the T/T unit model.
How long have you had that paper towel in your toolbox at 14:28 ?
It's been used several times. I might have used it on some projects in the old hood.
geat video,thank you ,,Cowboy,
William, thanks for watching. I don't get the "Cowboy" reference but will ride along.
@@JimMFishing I'm Cowboy
@@JimMFishing because of you now I can rebuild my trim tilt unit, thanks very much
@@Number1Cowboy - Got ya! Makes a lot more sense.