2015 Jeep Cherokee KL Rear Half Shaft (CV Axle) Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- Replace the rear half shaft (CV Axle) in a 2015 Jeep Cherokee KL. First video with the new camera, sorry for the close up in the open... Learning how to use.
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Due to factors beyond the control of ACH Automotive, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. ACH Automotive assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. ACH Automotive recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ACH Automotive, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ACH Automotive.
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I really like this video i just got a 2018 jeep cherokee trailhawk . Your videos are very helpful for me i also hade the same issue with my driver side blowing hot air and the passenger side blowing cold solved it with your help. Thank you very much. Hope to see more helpful videos.
Axle nut part number isn’t right
Pretty cool that you can set the electronic parking brake to service using just the radio display. There are a lot of vehicles you need to plug a scanner into to access that option.
Great videos! Definitely much better than any other repair videos I’ve seen for the Cherokee. Keep them coming so I can figure out how to properly work on my car!
Thanks! Will do!
Great video subject matter. Hard to find stuff on the KL. Thank you! Audio was very good. The one fixed camera angle from the rear while removing fasteners on the other side of the knuckle was hard to follow. Couldnt really see what bolt you were removing. A little more editing to pare down the length would be good too. Thanks again, good stuff! Suggestion for your next KL vid: PTU (front diff) and RDU (rear diff] fluid change!
Excellent video. This is exactly how it's done. I just completed a rear differential change in a 2015 Trailhawk and I used this video as a starting point and continued on from there.
Great to hear!
Very helpful video! Thank you, hopefully I don't run into trouble with CV stuck on the input shaft!!
Glad it helped. It was a PAIN without a lift and dealing with the stuck shaft.
Ok guys. I work for Chrysler. This is not how we flat rate this. ONLY disconnect the toe link, lower control arm bolt, upper camber link and lower shock mount. Loosen the outer axle nut. Swing the whole assy out of the way and hold up with a bungee and hammer the axle out. Taking everything apart is unnecessary and extremely time consuming. The one thing I will say is that having everything out of the way (like this video shows) makes using a slide hammer to pop the axle out possible. My method is to jam a 4" 2x4 between the control arm and body and use it as a pry point with a 5 foot pry bar....axle pops out like butta.
@jaydunstall4641 so no need to remove the brakes and knuckle? The axle just gets pryed out once the axle nut is loose? Does this method work if I want to install a new rear diff on a 2015 Cherokee limited?
@@CodyRasmussen1 Yessir. The only issue you may run into is the RH rear stub shaft sticking 2 the CV axle. But no problem. It will come right out with the axle and then you put it in the vice and separate it. IF you are doing it on the floor just bungie the whole rotor, brake, and control arm assy to the spring. To slide the axle out lift the assy on your leg and pull the cv axle out under the rotor/backing plate. There is room.
@@jaydunstall4641 Thanks! I read somewhere that I could just remove one side/driver and just drop down the RDM leaving the other axle hanging? Or, is it best to pull both axles?
@@CodyRasmussen1 nope just pull one side...other side can hang...should be able to shimmy it out. Just make sure to pop both axles out before you unbolt the diff housing.
Thank you for sharing the video now I’ll be on the lookout in case I get that. Oh shit moment also I wouldn’t know what to do. Appreciate it.
Great job buddy 👍
When you realized this had to be replaced did you hear any loud noises coming from the wheel well? I’m getting a loud clicking/ popping noise and it’s been getting worse. I only hear it at loud speeds and it’s def not coming from the breaks. From underneath though I can’t see any damage
No noises other than the dealership telling me the boot was ripped and it was going to cost an arm and a leg for them to repair it. (I had it serviced at dealer while it was under warranty. Once the warranty expired, I took over) - I ignored it for a bit and kept an eye on it. Finally decided it was time to change it out.
I had my car up on a lift ran it, no noise, but made tons of noise when side loaded, so imo im doing wheel bearings and axles, what did yours end up being @daniel
Also great video but you dont need to pull the whole knuckle
And a chain on a slide hammer can pull it past the c clips
Great video . Changing out rear shocks , does it require taking all this apart as well?
Shock should be much easier. Drop the lower bolt, I think you need to pull the wheel well liner and then undo the upper bolt.
@@ACHAutomotive sick ! Thanks a lot
Hi, I need to change broken right axle half bearing at cherokee kl 2017. Do you know is it possible or not?) and if yes - MB you know the number of it? Will be very thankful if you have one
What we're you're symptoms other than ripped boot? I have pretty large amount of play on drive side rear cv shaft ..at the middle joint ..also slight play coming out of ptu ( output shaft ) and small leak ..mechanic said all i need was new output shaft seal. He changed seal..put everything back together..been driving 9 months now ..doesn't appear to be leaking but play in midd cv joint has gotten worse...no others symptoms..noise or anything..but now I'm really not trusting any of this ! I'm hoping can just check fluid level to insure output shaft seal not leaking..replace cv and this problem will go away.? Any advise..other things to look for or words of wisdom..much appreciated ..lol 😂
The boot was physically ripped/torn and flinging grease from the CV. Wife drove it for a while like this as the dealer wanted some odd $700-1000 to do it and I wasn't about to go that route. I bought a new CV and replaced it. It was a bit of a pain to do in the garage. Did this several years ago before I had my lift. There is quite a bit to come apart, not really a "driveway job" if you're not comfortable with it.
Other than a ripped boot, what are some of the symptoms if that was failing will it get a bit of a wobble when you’re turning for example?
Usually you'd hear a clicking noise, in my experience. This one just had a ripped boot.
I know this is not related to the video. Have you ever tried to change the rear diff fluid on the Cherokee. Would be awesome if you show us how.
I have not yet, but it is on my list to do soon
@@ACHAutomotive can you do it please? I can’t find how to do that to my rear PTU
@thtadventureguy4048 the fill plug is in one of the dumbest places, ill post a short about it
How hard is it to find a good tutorial on the Cherokee KL?
Where is the rear camber bolt adjustment?
There is not much out there on this platform, at least, that is what I found.
So on my driverside rear, wheel off, rotor off. When i spin the wheel hub i feel a click/thud thats in sequence with me spinning the hub. I do feel it as well when im cruising on the highway and i do notice alot of vibration.put a new hub same thing. I noticed alot of play in the cv axle shaft same side. Seems theres alot of play towards the rear diff. Im leaning towards worn cv axle shaft and hoping its nothing internally on rear diff.
I'm dealing with some same problems..driver side rear cv lots of play at 2nd joint ..none at wheel and very little coming out of ptu ( output shaft ) what came of your problem..did new cv solve problems?
@anthonypennino7821 ...thanks any info much appreciated
@@paulsladinski1236 I uave yet to get around to it. I bought all the parts to replace but what I did discover is that the vibration I been feeling is my abs. I drive alot of highway so after 50mph ,is when I feel this shutter/vibration. When I turn off my esc, it goes away. When I drive manual shift, it goes away. So once I discovered this I been holding off on replaced the rear driver cv axle shaft. I been trying to diagnose why my esc is causing that vibration but after new wheel hubs and speed sensors, I'm thinking it's a prob with brake module.
I did not have any clicking or thuds, I replaced this due to a torn boot. However, I did recently replace my center driveshaft/prop shaft. This started as something similar, low whir noise and got incredibly loud. I have a recent video on it, might help. There are 2 pilot/center bearings and they wear out and make noise. I spent a lot of time chasing the issue before I found it. My Jeep does have some play in the rear CVs and always has.
What about the left side
There isn't any reason to put the parking brake in service mode unless you're throwing in new pads. Parking brake off is all you need.
Service manual calls out to put it into service mode.