Steve, I would have put two washers on that output board, as well as a drop of Elmer's (or other) aliphatic resin glue on the area that had delaminated. Just a suggestion. Nice job though.
Hi, Mt. Steve. Thank you for the video. 1) Your full name and address are exposed by the box shipping label @1:11. I highly suggest that you edit the video to remove it. 2) I would be glad to rough in a new banana connector board, for you. I should have enough different types of bare copper clad board. Here's the details that I would need: a) Completely strip the board. b1) Option1 = To communicate by the postal service... Make a "Xerox" copy of the front and back of the board. Make sure the printed scale is true to 100%. You can not rely on a copier's scale setting. So, draw a 100mm line on a piece of paper and copy that with the board. On the picture copy, measure the 100mm line. Adjust the printer's scale setting, until the line on the copy actually equals a true measured 100mm. (For example, my copier scales in at 100.02%) Let me know that you have chosen to communicate by mail and I will mail my address to you at your address that I grabbed from this video. See, the nuts are already using your mailing address You can then send me the copy, or the actual board would be even better. b2) Option2 = To communicate via the internet... If your copier has a scan function, make a scanned .pdf image and place it in a cloud storage file at DropBox. Include a scaling line. Then, give me the link to the file. c) I also need to know the board's thickness in millimeters. And, can it be thicker? The new board will not be anything fancy. I will just remove the copper with a rotary tool to create the copper pour zones. Or, just give me the board measurements and I will mail you the copper clad, for you to make the board yourself. Your choice. All absolutely for free, of course... including shipping. I hope that helps. That board looks dangerous (to me) and we want you around to make videos for us! lol
Thanks for the kind offer!! The board seems as good as new, after put some Super Glue into the wafers and clamped them together. The board was poorly designed, it should have had four screws. Thanks Again Steve
Starting at 5:15 I spy a daddy long legs spider up close near the camera lens 😂
Steve, I would have put two washers on that output board, as well as a drop of Elmer's (or other) aliphatic resin glue on the area that had delaminated. Just a suggestion.
Nice job though.
The daddy long legs walking in front of your lens at 5:20-5:39. Like a ghost spider. Did no one else see this?
I would be good to put some epoxy glue on that output board before putting it back together. It might break loose again if not fixed properly.
Hi, Mt. Steve. Thank you for the video. 1) Your full name and address are exposed by the box shipping label @1:11. I highly suggest that you edit the video to remove it. 2) I would be glad to rough in a new banana connector board, for you. I should have enough different types of bare copper clad board. Here's the details that I would need: a) Completely strip the board. b1) Option1 = To communicate by the postal service... Make a "Xerox" copy of the front and back of the board. Make sure the printed scale is true to 100%. You can not rely on a copier's scale setting. So, draw a 100mm line on a piece of paper and copy that with the board. On the picture copy, measure the 100mm line. Adjust the printer's scale setting, until the line on the copy actually equals a true measured 100mm. (For example, my copier scales in at 100.02%) Let me know that you have chosen to communicate by mail and I will mail my address to you at your address that I grabbed from this video. See, the nuts are already using your mailing address You can then send me the copy, or the actual board would be even better. b2) Option2 = To communicate via the internet... If your copier has a scan function, make a scanned .pdf image and place it in a cloud storage file at DropBox. Include a scaling line. Then, give me the link to the file. c) I also need to know the board's thickness in millimeters. And, can it be thicker? The new board will not be anything fancy. I will just remove the copper with a rotary tool to create the copper pour zones. Or, just give me the board measurements and I will mail you the copper clad, for you to make the board yourself. Your choice. All absolutely for free, of course... including shipping. I hope that helps. That board looks dangerous (to me) and we want you around to make videos for us! lol
Thanks for the kind offer!! The board seems as good as new, after put some Super Glue into the wafers and clamped them together. The board was poorly designed, it should have had four screws.
Thanks Again
Steve
@@stevestrivia-bystevewagner4852 Excellent solution!
😬 Promo SM