It appeared when you started the video that the top left corner of the front panel had a space when you took the cover off . I would guess it was dropped on that corner, that is right above the pot that was broken . Thank you for the Great videos.
Ahhhh, my favorite troubleshooting technique...lift it up and drop it a couple of times, remarkably not a bad way to test sometimes! Thanks for sharing Ian!
Nice to see another video from you. At least you didn’t have to dig into the electronics to trace it down. I have had 2 repairs recently which were just a bad wire, it’s nice to get easy ones sometimes.
We used to call that technique “mechanical margins”... love it.... my preferred method though is the old “blue flash” fault finding method.... 😀. Cheers Ian .....
That's the unit I have two of here. They have a bit of a power-on voltage spike but are generally very good and fault free for about a year. I replaced the noisy 24v fan with a decent 12V one and bypassed the thermal cut-off so it runs constantly. I also added an in series thermal cutout (wedged in beside the windings) on the mains input as the transformer can run pretty hot on load (even with the stock fan.) They're great for the £30 each I paid on Ebay.
I hate when fault disappear by self and didn't come back.. :D And that's usually happens when try to measure something - very annoying part of repairs.. One time welding inverter do exactly the same.. when it's on the table and was disassembled, it works excellent.. Multiple tests, shakings etc didn't help spot the problem.. till the time i put it back in plastic case (strange, round and green, by memory - Migatronic), and in case it stops to work normally.. I spend lot of hours figuring out where is problem.. finally - potentiometer in enclosure changes his axis angle when knob was putted on, and in some point looses connectivity inside.. :D but when measuring that potentiometer on table - no faults jump out.. Now I get to subscribe.. :)
Well spotted.......I didn't video it but the captive nut was in the wrong position on that top screw so the front bezel was actually pushed back under the case lid. I broke the glue that held it and moved it to it's correct position during final assembly, see 20:25 mark.
Incorrectly glued nut? That's some quality quality control! And here I was thinking the case and potentiometer might have both been damaged in shipping. Well, maybe the pot was. Who knows...
I have loadstar LP3005D(30V, 5A) dc supply, the problem is the voltage is only increasing up to 10.5V, I have replaced potentiometer & relays as well but still the same issue.. kindly help to repair
Thanks for posting. One general problem, don’t power up linear supplies when you think they are defective. At a minimum do some basic tests you can learn about anywhere on the net.
I have the -Unpronouncable Name- APS 3005D, i somehow destroyed it buy shorting it to often, now sometimes if the overcurrent jumps in it goes to 0 current but raised to uncontrolled fucking 80V !!!! luckily i just had a 12v lead battery (those from the UPS) on it. but now it also randomly goes to 6.3V even if all voltage sliders are at 0, i dont know what part i destroyed, maybe the main ic or some thing at the feedback... please help
Hi I have a (ZHAOXIN PS-3005D DC Power Supply) but it is stuck on 50V which is MAX! it does not adjust to a lower voltage do you know where I should look ?
Hi, i have One of this and when i tested a DC 24v motor the voltage drops to 22v and then i Open to see but i dont know, the voltage drops more and more, in this moment the max is 13.6v 5A Transformer ok, br ok, relays ok but just one click in this moment. What could be? Thanks
There's only one thing I would have done differently. as you had a dual gang potentiometer I would have paralleled up the two sides and then you would have ended up with a 2.5 k pot which would have been a little closer to the original
Yep, I missed a trick there......my mind was elsewhere! I'll play with a 1k at some point, possibly even a 500ohm to see if it's any better at being a fine control.
Lovely repair =D LOL - that darn cheap solder they used I think! I guess the placement of that bridge on the heatsink there - with wires floating above it, maybe those factors are why when combined with low quality lead free solder it came loose?
I never really showed it but the underside of the pcb is a real mess of iffy soldering and yucky flux. I am guessing it's not lead free or leaded solder actually, but maybe part dog solder!
Sir i'm from indonesia, i've same problem with my aps 3005 too "VOLTAGE can not On", But few different with your video,,, i mean my APS3005 The RED LIGHT on Current LED always show RED, although i try to rotate the potensio voltage, and the current LED still show RED. The Voltage not coming. i try to replace the L7812CV transistor and the two of power transistor, all of Potensio.. and The Voltage still not coming The RED LED current still shiny. I think my PSU short on the componen, Can you tell me, where the spesific problem if RED light current always ON ??,
Nice one . One can never have enought power supplies. Your top rack are all power supplies. I bet it i you connect all in series you have more than the mains input on the output. Lol.
Simple enough repair. I think the reason most of those cheap Chinese power supplies look very similar is that they're all clones of an outdated TTI model.
Hi Ian. You might want to go back and check out the earth connection on that psu. At the beginning when you got -2v, that should have been impossible, as it looks like there is a shunt installed between the negative terminal and the chassis earth terminal
Cool video! Amazingly, you had one of the exact same problems as another guy here on you tube (the potentiometer shearing off) although his was the voltmeter side. Take a look at his (th-cam.com/video/qM8o88iWybg/w-d-xo.html) and because he didn't have a spare to hand he repaired it with superglue and silver conductive paint repair! That's dedication! Great video...thanks! You give us lesser mortals the hope that maybe we can fix ours too...lol!
It appeared when you started the video that the top left corner of the front panel had a space when you took the cover off . I would guess it was dropped on that corner, that is right above the pot that was broken . Thank you for the Great videos.
Ahhhh, my favorite troubleshooting technique...lift it up and drop it a couple of times, remarkably not a bad way to test sometimes! Thanks for sharing Ian!
Nice to see another video from you. At least you didn’t have to dig into the electronics to trace it down. I have had 2 repairs recently which were just a bad wire, it’s nice to get easy ones sometimes.
Nice repair, great also to see you are still making videos!
We used to call that technique “mechanical margins”... love it.... my preferred method though is the old “blue flash” fault finding method.... 😀. Cheers Ian .....
Picked up a similar one, and the fix was easy, clean the pots to make them less noisy, clean the outside and supply a power cord.
That's the unit I have two of here. They have a bit of a power-on voltage spike but are generally very good and fault free for about a year.
I replaced the noisy 24v fan with a decent 12V one and bypassed the thermal cut-off so it runs constantly. I also added an in series thermal cutout (wedged in beside the windings) on the mains input as the transformer can run pretty hot on load (even with the stock fan.)
They're great for the £30 each I paid on Ebay.
Nice job, I look forward to another video, PEACE
I hate when fault disappear by self and didn't come back.. :D And that's usually happens when try to measure something - very annoying part of repairs.. One time welding inverter do exactly the same.. when it's on the table and was disassembled, it works excellent.. Multiple tests, shakings etc didn't help spot the problem.. till the time i put it back in plastic case (strange, round and green, by memory - Migatronic), and in case it stops to work normally.. I spend lot of hours figuring out where is problem.. finally - potentiometer in enclosure changes his axis angle when knob was putted on, and in some point looses connectivity inside.. :D but when measuring that potentiometer on table - no faults jump out..
Now I get to subscribe.. :)
I have a HY3005 power supply the current display dose not work but can i adjust the current just no display any ideals ?? Thanks
Good job, Ian. Thanks.
Sir, Do you have schematic of this power supply/
Hello
I need scheme for Yihua 3005D SMPS Laboratory power supply.
Anyone help ?
When I first looked at the 01:00 mark, it looks like the front left top lid edge looks like it has taken a beating, doesn't sit square.
Well spotted.......I didn't video it but the captive nut was in the wrong position on that top screw so the front bezel was actually pushed back under the case lid. I broke the glue that held it and moved it to it's correct position during final assembly, see 20:25 mark.
Incorrectly glued nut? That's some quality quality control! And here I was thinking the case and potentiometer might have both been damaged in shipping. Well, maybe the pot was. Who knows...
Is the switcher "pure" switcher, OR a "hybrid" switcher/linear type?
I have loadstar LP3005D(30V, 5A) dc supply, the problem is the voltage is only increasing up to 10.5V, I have replaced potentiometer & relays as well but still the same issue.. kindly help to repair
Thanks for posting. One general problem, don’t power up linear supplies when you think they are defective. At a minimum do some basic tests you can learn about anywhere on the net.
In my case if i set any voltage the voltage fluctuate after some seconds....what will be the problem?
Hello. A link to the 3005 source diagram ? Thanks 😊
I have the -Unpronouncable Name- APS 3005D, i somehow destroyed it buy shorting it to often, now sometimes if the overcurrent jumps in it goes to 0 current but raised to uncontrolled fucking 80V !!!! luckily i just had a 12v lead battery (those from the UPS) on it. but now it also randomly goes to 6.3V even if all voltage sliders are at 0, i dont know what part i destroyed, maybe the main ic or some thing at the feedback... please help
Nice video Ian !
Excellent, excellent.
Hi I have a (ZHAOXIN PS-3005D DC Power Supply) but it is stuck on 50V which is MAX! it does not adjust to a lower voltage do you know where I should look ?
Hi, i have One of this and when i tested a DC 24v motor the voltage drops to 22v and then i Open to see but i dont know, the voltage drops more and more, in this moment the max is 13.6v 5A
Transformer ok, br ok, relays ok but just one click in this moment.
What could be?
Thanks
Constant current mode kicks in, keeps amp at the level u wish but also the voltage drops
Great video thanks very much sir.
hi mr, i have p-3005d powersupply and the current cannot adjust, please healp
There's only one thing I would have done differently. as you had a dual gang potentiometer I would have paralleled up the two sides and then you would have ended up with a 2.5 k pot which would have been a little closer to the original
Yep, I missed a trick there......my mind was elsewhere! I'll play with a 1k at some point, possibly even a 500ohm to see if it's any better at being a fine control.
Worth experimenting for sure :)
Good job fella !
Lovely repair =D LOL - that darn cheap solder they used I think! I guess the placement of that bridge on the heatsink there - with wires floating above it, maybe those factors are why when combined with low quality lead free solder it came loose?
I never really showed it but the underside of the pcb is a real mess of iffy soldering and yucky flux. I am guessing it's not lead free or leaded solder actually, but maybe part dog solder!
I had fixed one before with relay problems, i hade to replace them and it started working back again
Sir i'm from indonesia,
i've same problem with my aps 3005 too "VOLTAGE can not On",
But few different with your video,,, i mean my APS3005 The RED LIGHT on Current LED always show RED,
although i try to rotate the potensio voltage, and the current LED still show RED. The Voltage not coming.
i try to replace the L7812CV transistor and the two of power transistor, all of Potensio.. and The Voltage still not coming
The RED LED current still shiny.
I think my PSU short on the componen,
Can you tell me, where the spesific problem if RED light current always ON ??,
I hAve the same power supply it is ok untill i connect a load voltage goes down and no current
Nice one . One can never have enought power supplies. Your top rack are all power supplies. I bet it i you connect all in series you have more than the mains input on the output. Lol.
Nice repair.
Nice job, although I was hoping you might comment on the "Insurance Tube" which was mentioned in the manual :D.
I saw that.......will have to go back and see if there are any more gems!
17:40 the what control?! :)
The "Current Control".
Did sound a bit sus.He has a wee Sco-ish accnt:-) What a silly current.
I assumed you would parallel up the 5K pot gangs to a single 2.5k pot?????
The model is name Huakko
You could have paralleled the two gangs to get a bit closer.
it would be awesome if you make a video repairing an atx power supply. you can't really find a good video on youtube for atx repair.
احسنت شكرا لك لجهودك ياورد
Simple enough repair. I think the reason most of those cheap Chinese power supplies look very similar is that they're all clones of an outdated TTI model.
Can you say "dropped on the corner"
Disappointed that it wasn't the red wire at fault. It looked a bit damaged
Hi Ian. You might want to go back and check out the earth connection on that psu. At the beginning when you got -2v, that should have been impossible, as it looks like there is a shunt installed between the negative terminal and the chassis earth terminal
Me: Oh EEVblog video
Vide: Don't have Dave in it
Also video: Actually isn't EEVBlog
Me:Wait a minute
YT: Do you wanna lea..
Me: No no no.... i like it
Use a mirror viewing of display WHILE tapping ! Nerd !
Its weird you can't increase the amps and its stupid
Cool video! Amazingly, you had one of the exact same problems as another guy here on you tube (the potentiometer shearing off) although his was the voltmeter side. Take a look at his (th-cam.com/video/qM8o88iWybg/w-d-xo.html) and because he didn't have a spare to hand he repaired it with superglue and silver conductive paint repair! That's dedication! Great video...thanks! You give us lesser mortals the hope that maybe we can fix ours too...lol!
What a lousy design to have a board held on by the pots. I think I'd go through some effort to put my own standoffs through the case to hold it down.
This guy is as clueless as they get.
Luckily he didn't try to poop on the P.S.
Explain?
Video is a waste of time
Merry Christmas to you as well. Close the door behind you on your way out.