How To Remove And Install A Road Bike Stem
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- Replacing the stem on your road bike is a fairly simple task, but there are a number of ways you could come unstuck during the process! In this video Ollie shows you how to change the stem on your bike so you can get your desired fit!
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Was this video helpful? What maintenance tasks would you like to see us cover in future videos? Let us know 👇
Great video. I would like to know specifically how to adjust the seat level on a Pinarello Dogma F10. I find the leveling very difficult to achieve. Any tips would be great.
How to replace headset bearing and take fork out for a disc brake bike
Carbon aero seat post review please do they work or not for the next video?
@@kimberlystewart8980 I didn't either until I started watching these. Now I'm doing all sorts. I use my older bike for practice though
Please can you do a maintenance video about "Shimano Deore XT M8020 MTB Pedals".
Thank you.
Something to remind to a novice, which might be counterintuitive at first sight, and that the video did not underline, is that the stack of spacers and stem must be such that they come up slightly (couple of mm) above the steerer tube, so that the headset cap pulls on the spacers, not on the tube.
5mm spacer on top of the stem, especially on carbon steerer tubes !
😳👏👏👏❤️❤️🤔🤔
Ollie, the safest place to keep the stem's face plate and bolts is back in the the stem after the handlebars are removed. ;)
Many thanks for this video it was spot on for a 100% newbie to fixing a bike.
Bought a Croix de Fer 30 the other day and was fitting a longer stem extension today - up on the stand, loosened the bolts two seconds later the forks fall out and four or five ringy things (two with ball bearings) got to know my garden floor and surrounding areas.
With a bit of logical reasoning and some trial and (tiny) error I managed to get the operation back on track.
Took the bike for a spin after in lovely Irish almost-summer-rain and all seemed well except that moving the bars was a bit stiff…thanks to this video I now have the final piece of the puzzle in place…too much tightening of the headset bolt.
It may seem like absolute child’s play for some people but when you literally know nothing about something, a clear, basic, step-by-step tutorial is a godsend.
Cheers again,
Dave.
P.s. I even learned new terminology: stem bolt, headset, headset bolt… all much better than simply “nuts” and the “thing off the yoke”.
Great tip on using the trainer as a bike stand while doing this job. Wish I would have thought of that before several previous stem jobs. Thanks Ollie!
Could someone please ask the video production team to stop blasting every intermission with exceedingly loud music in between sections of speaking that are much lower volume than the music? Thank you all in advance.
For real, i cant stand this amateur editing. Its the first thing I noticed, gonna go watch something else...ffs...
yep!!!❤
Needed to flip the stem on my brand new gravel bike to create some positive rise - too aggressive a geometry for a first drop bar. Got a torque wrench from Amazon for $50 and along with this video, the job (and my first bit of mechanical type work on a bike) was done. Cheers GCN.
The blue compound on the bolts of your stem is not an anti seize but a thread lock. You put either anti seize, grease or thread lock on bolts if manufacturer recommends it, otherwise you would change the torque needed for proper tightening the bolts (various compounds changes friction between bolt and thread). Sticking to this rule is especially important for carbon parts (precise torque is very often crucial).
So is it best to use grease then?
@@rice1985 - No, for stem bolts, the blue Loc-tite is what you want.
Thank you for the tutorial. I think I can do this myself now. Grace and peace!
Super helpful! I just played it while I worked on my bike and I barley had to pause the video. I’m so happy with my new stem on my E-MTB the reach is soo much better! 😁
Sand the sharp or rough edges inside the stem so that there's no sharp edges that will cut into the carbon steerer. Note that some stems will be attached with a star nut instead or a plug. Star nuts can only be used with metal steerer tubes, and they will pull the stem downwards tightening the headset bearing. Compression plugs on the other hand, will both expand and eliminate headset play. If you overtighten a compression plug you can crack the steerer because the carbon layup cannot offset the radial forces of the plug, especially if the plug is not at the same level of the stem. If the stem does not fit closely or snugly around the carbon steerer without a compression plug expanded or the pinched bolts tightened, something is likely to fail when the plug is tightened. So be careful with a carbon steerer and take it to an expert if you are unsure or don't have a torque wrench.
5:15 Just wondering, how many of those workshop Park Tools has Ollie put in his mouth?
its over 9000 !!!!!!!
Excellent mystery solved as to changing a stem. Thanks for posting
Glad it helped! 😊
Love your videos guys! I was wondering if you could do a £1000 used Road Bike Challenge where you show us the whole process and maybe compare it to a more expensive bike! I understand if you can't but personally would be really cool to see!
Search for "Midrange Bike vs Superbike" and you won't be far off. They compared something like a Canyon Endurace 7.0 (105) to an Aeroad. Shows what the extra money spent will (and won't) get you.
Good video. Could have explained the use of compression plugs or star fang led nut depending on whether you have a metallic or composite bike though. Informative though
Thanks Ollie. Just put a shorter stem and slammed it on my kids bike... He will be thrilled
You forgot to explain the relative position of the compression plug to the position of the stem. If these are not positioned well aligned, then you might crack your carbon steerer tube while tightening the stem bolts.
Good shout!
@@ghowell13 what is the correct position of the plug ?
@@1934joao You want the compression plug to be supporting the stem against the clamping force of both/all stem bolts. In other words, the position of the plug inside the steerer tube should be aligned with the entire length of where the stem is clamping. Most modern compression plugs have a lip at the top so that they always sit at the top of the steerer (i.e. you can't push them down inside the steerer). This is fine as long as you don't have more than 5 or 10mm of spacers on top of the stem, OR the plug is long enough to extend down to the base of where the stem is clamped. The danger is if you have a short compression plug and several spacers on top of the stem - then the plug may only extend half way down the area where the stem is clamping, so that the bottom stem bolt is compressing an unsupported part of the steerer while the top one is clamping a supported section. This is likely to make the clamping forces of the two stem bolts uneven, causing you to overtorque one (even at the specificed torque) and damage the steerer...
Neil Very right. The best is to mount a long compression plug. Most are too short.
@@janwillemkuilenburg7561 I use shorter ones because I'm an inveterate weight weenie, but I generally only have a very thin spacer on top of the stem (2.5 or 5mm) and I always make sure the plug reaches far enough to support the lower stem bolt. For most people the longer ones are a much safer option and worth the 30g penalty..
Top bolt on the stem also has a torque value. That's a much better place to start for how tight to make it as it will get you to the manufacturer recommended preload on the headset bearings.
Where do I find the torque value on a 2022 Giant Escape Disc 2 ? I want to flip my stem for a higher Handlebar height
Thanks for the video! Really informative
How to get rid of the chimney?? Is it safe to mount the stem on top without any spacer above, and how many space can there be between the top of the stem and the top of the steerer tube ( without compromising the clamping force of the stem )? 2, 5 or even 10 mm?
How to cut an aluminium and carbon steerertube to the right length the easiest and safest way Ollie?
Tightening the handlebar face plate should do opposite bolts, not top two and then bottom two
5:15 "With the TastePlate loosely in place" ______________________________ Love a good "Taste-Plate"
Very informative - thanks mate :)
Tape: here is an alternate taping method we use in the Film Industry. Try a strip of high quality Gaffers Tape. It comes in all colors and it won’t leave sticky residue over time and the $30 is a good investment as you can use Gaffers tape in a wide variety of places -or- if you are using the black electric tape for cosmetic reasons, you can always put down a layer of blue painters tape then cover it with electrical tape. But! LMK, maybe carbon or the finish on the seat post isn’t leaving residue from the tape?
Thank you. A very helpful video.
I didn't see this mentioned, but most stems are angled. So proper fit is a combination of length and angle. And furthermore, this means there is a difference depending on which way the stem is mounted on the steerer.
Performs well. Very pleased
Getting a carbon fibre one soon
Blog it
Why there’s no point
Not such a good idea, as carbon snaps just like that without warning. Aluminium stems are very lightweight as well and much more reliable.
Jan Willem Kuilenburg but that only would happen if you fell off your bike and hit the stem which would weaken over time. So thank you for your advice I will look into a alloy carbon WRAPPED stem and not fully carbon it dosent matter about weight it will only be a couple of grams heavier
Next we will be showing you how to attach a bell to your handlebars so you dont need to shout at car drivers.
@@kimberlystewart8980 Brilliant,🤣 some drivers need a dual system advising them to look out for cyclists. 👍
I mean if you have a loud free hub just pedal backwards and it will make the people in front of you think their is a snake behind them. Lol
Kimberly Stewart I mean for the uk the nonces we deal with
@@Michael-et1ys 😂😂😂😂😂
What is the function of the top cap? Is it only dirt protection or is it important for security? (I slightly damaged mine in the process)
Tanks a million!!!
Thanks mate ... dams shame I didn't watch this before I did a stem bolt too tight and buggered the thread
0:30 When your hair+gel weights more than your clothes 😉
2:52 just lower the stand so that the front wheel sits on the floor
In case I change my stem from a long one to a significantly shorter one (e.g. from 100mm to 50mm) is excess cables' length going to affect brakes and shifters setting? Thanks to anyone who can answer.
Yes it will, but you probably don’t wanna reduce that much in length maybe begin with 70mm or 80mm
Awesome & Thanks :)
Great video
What if my fork is carbon and I have an aluminium stem? Or vice versa. Do I still use carbon paste? Will the paste damage the aluminium?
Generally carbon paste is used to add friction so you do not need to use as much torque for the bolts. It won't damage the aluminum, but it will help with avoiding damage to the carbon steerer due to over tightening the stem
@@Nasadude11 ahhh okay. Thanks mate!
@@Bungle2010 Huh? Carbon paste (essentially specially formulated grease and grit to enhance friction at lower torque values) is EXACTLY for situations such as carbon seat and steerer tubes. Prevents slippage and keeps one from crushing components in the event of wonky tolerances. It can be used with aluminum stems / seat fixation, and is literally what Ollie prescribes in the video should you have a carbon stem-steerer combo.
Wide Low Straight Handle Bar like Pipe
Mounted Directly. Zero Stem Length
My Favourite
20T Long Wheel Base Aluminum Cycle
This ll ve Handling of BMX & Comfort of MTB
Wit Rear Brake Only. No Disc Brake
Xternal Brake Cable
Aluminum bcz Aluminum is a Soft Metal
U dnt need Suspension
did you remove it because you needed a longer one for your fixie ???,
and you just made a video about it??
Was it really anti seize or thread lock?
It is safe to use spacer if the handle bar is smaller than the stem?..
do you have any tip to align the stem? i find it super tedious, and cannot trust my eyes to be telling me the right direction. same goes with the saddle. is there any technique to make it sure the saddle or the stem are aligned with the top tube? think lead wire or something alike. thanks a lot
If you adjusted it to the point you can't tell it is off centre, there is no point to adjust it more, right?
Saddle alignment: look from front over the stem bolt to the saddle and look from behind over the saddle to the stem bolt. Stem alignment: mount it and test ride; only whilst riding you can see if it is exactly straight.
Turn the handlebar about 30 degrees or so to one side. Then align the posterior slit or bulge (compressed by the pinched bolts) with the centre of the front tire tread. It sounds difficult, but if you look straight down, aligning the stem with the tire is pretty easy, especially with practice.
Does it matter if you have an extender plug in the steerer when just changing the stem?
Completely remove the steerer clamp bolts when lifting the stem form the steerer tube, minimizing scartches on steeerer tube at a minimum.
@@Bungle2010 bite me, =D
I have little issue . I swap my stem out purchased DEDA stem then I ran into huge problem were the compression plug came loose total night mare my fork came loose also .How do I avoid that problem.If you can give me advice appreciate that .
How do you make your hair stand up like that without using hair gel?
Can you make one how to replace headset bearing on a disc brake bike , how to remove the fork
My problem is when i try to remove the stem and try to put it back theres some free space and the fork shakes, ive tried everything to get rid of it, but i can’t
Carbon paste is not necessary! In case of crash better when the stem spin and not break the steerer tube...
Im still waiting for ollie's single speed bike
These videos are good, I know how to do this already, but when working on my wife’s expensive bikes, it’s worth a triple double quadruple check…..
I heard that it's not a good idea to put carbon paste in the stem: in case of accident the stem will slip and rotate instead of tearing the tube apart.
Very good video. But you left a chimney on the bike. Speaking of chimneys. Could you make a video on how to remove your chimney?
We will soon don't worry!
maintenance tips: install/reroute Di2
The extender has created a 'protrusion' above the bar. Safety issue.
👍👍👍👍👍
Are the barber shops still closed in England?
This is a bicycle channnel and video, no make up tutorials here.
@@g.bergervoet4505 I'd never go to the barber for make up....
I want one
Cuánto pesa la bisicleta
"This is the MOST important component of the bike!"
ME: (just bought one from China on ebay.....)
Tune in next time on GCN to learn how to ride a tricycle for the first time
I replaced my stem with taping it with ducktape round the steerer ube a plastic tube and handlebars, it's really bad haha
Is it okay to replace a road bike stem that originally was 100mm to 80mm ?
Length doesn't matter as long as the clamp diameter is the same
If it fits you better, go ahead
You can even mount a 60 mm stem if that would fit you better. I did exactly that and it rides very well; no problem at all.
Just think not everybody has the same body shape, so a small size bike with a long stem might fit some people better. And the opposite too.
I’m using a 60mm and I am looking to get a 100 or 110mm stem which you you advise?
I was working on my Fuji cross bike (aluminum frame and fork), it was with the saddle and bars on the floor since I don’t have a work stand, right to the side of it was a 1.5 meter drop to my garage and I had my front wheel of the bike, my rear wheel was still on it, then one of my pets dropped the bike, it landed sideways with the middle of the fork taking the blow right on the edge of the floor, then it turned an fell those 1.5 meter landing on the rear wheel and the front wheel dropouts, it bounced .5 meters on the front before falling again. I inspected the bike and neither the middle of the fork nor the wheel dropouts seem damaged (except for the paint obviously), should I be worried long term for cracks especially on the stress point which is the joint of the dropouts with the rest of the fork? Especially having disk brakes and being used as a road bike with long and fast descents being frequent where I live? THANKS A LOT IN ADVANCE. :) #askGCNTech
That is some serious Covid hair!!
Whatever happened to your hunt for a new gcn tech presenter? Did covid kibosh this?
Don't cut the steerer chimney, bite it off. Hardens the teeth !
Second
How do you tight the headset when it is loose?
Completely undo both the stem bolts and the top cap bolt. Make sure the bars are straight, then tighten the top cap bolt enough to reduce any play, without making it so tight that it makes the bearings grind or the bars stiff to turn. Then tighten the stem bolts to the specified torque. Remember that it's the stem bolts that hold the stem to the steerer, the top cap bolt is just for adjusting the tightness before you clamp the steerer.
@@neil7769 thanks I'll try
@@etiennefoueillassar1426 Just be careful when retightening the stem bolts to do them a little bit at a time, switching back and forward between them.. And it's important to use a torque wrench if the steerer is carbon! If in doubt, a bike shop should be able to do it very quickly and easily.
@@neil7769 I have a question that I think you might be able to answer that I haven't seen in the comments yet. When changing the stem, does it matter whether you loosen the top cap bolt first or the stem bolts first? I've always loosened off the stem bolts first (thinking it will relief pressure on the steerer tube) before loosening the top cap.
@@antonpeterson1245 It shoudn't make any difference. The top cap bolt isn't doing anything apart from setting the correct pressure on the bearings (which is then maintained by the stem bolts when they are tightened). Loosening the stem bolt doesn't loosen the compression plug inside the steerer, the stem bolt just screws into the compression plug and uses it as a stable point to pull on.. In fact, after the stem bolts are tightened, you could remove the top cap and bolt entirely! (except it would look silly and rain might get in..).
fuck... i unmounted my bike stam and can't get it on anymore :(
I'm not going to comment, other than to say, I see a lot of the comments are exactly how I felt about this one.... Y'all can do better.
Good info, annoying voice sound.
If you want a bianchi in Celeste buy one ... not some German , US or Taiwanese nonsense in Celeste / or blue green as then call it ... just embarrassing
really scraping the barrel here guys..
1st
first to tell you that no one cares
Nick Chebykin good one mate
How the fuck it takes 8mins to talk about stem..
To much bla bla bla this video can be 3 min
Horrible Couleur, that Bike!
Andy So are you
Good vid as always Ollie, but christ, you're due a haircut. Sort it out dude!