My amazon page: My Amazon page: www.amazon.com/shop/jodaddysgarage as an Amazon associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Eastwood green: amzn.to/36CxkHo Eastwood black: amzn.to/36OOXnc
Eastwood definitely owes you one! Because of this video, I'll be giving this product a try and based on some of the other comments I've read here, so will a lot of other viewers. Well Done Barry! Thanks!
Great video. Thanks for the info! Another option is 3M body cavity wax. You can buy long spray tubes that are already straight rather than curled up like the Eastwood tube.
I did the same process for the rockers on my 66' mustang. With a bore camera, I also verified the coverage. I too hope the treatment kills the rust and stops the rust growth. We'll know in a few years.
good vid, thanks. like they say the show must go on. you kept your cool, if you didn't say anything people would have thought that it was part of the plan.
Hey The best part of this product it consistency of water or slightly heavier and runs down into areas like seams and pinch welds. Give it a good first coat. I Did my Chevy Blazer with it and a slight drip landed on the asphalt driveway. It was years ago and it never wore off the pavement.
Drill access holes,and when finish spraying, get rubber caps to seal the holes. Older method is to spray a mix of oil and melted wax into frame to coat. FYI👍🏼 you can get the fiber optic cameras on Amazon less $30, to use with phones, and see inside where rust up is, and what was sealed.
With this type of exercise you need to manage your expectations. I believe it is not possible to cover all inner surfaces completely. My hope is to do this process in a way that will minimize the rot of the inner structure of my mustang, it's one of those better that nothing efforts. My primary focus will be the structure below my seat risers. Access will be from the bottom of the car, at least 4 holes exist. I will need to find a way to clean out the structure before applying the product. I'm thinking of a custom vacuum extension I will need to build myself. Also, I must say, what you are witnessing is the extent people are willing to go to for their classic cars, car owners are demanding rust solutions for every nook and cranny. I may tape off the end of the spray tube and poke my own holes which may or may not be more effective. Might be better or I might make a big mess. Thanks for the Amazon link. One of my favorite channels for sure !!! Thanks for taking the time
I did my entire rebuild using this product and I used Eastwood “ pre” in aerosol to clean it... but it looks like carb cleaner works too! Great vid as usual!!!
You know what I like about your videos? They are always interesting, informative and they don't just apply to Mustangs. Techniques can be used on about any make or model so it is a learning experience for anyone interested in auto repair and restoration. Keep up the good ( great ) videos!
Great video Jo Daddy! I used the same product before and bought extra nozzles. Never thought about cleaning it. Once you use the can, it doesn't last long on the shelf.
I recently used this on a chevelle frame, and followed up with a boroscope. I found that it gave less than perfect coverage. One problem is that the can will stop spraying if it’s inverted and you won’t realize it. If I did it again I would cover the holes with clear tape to help monitor my progress. Also I would put a little tape at the end just before the nozzle so you know when you about to come out the hole. It would be nice if you could buy it in quarts and use an undercoating wand setup. I used four cans to do my frame. It does go on thin and flow into cracks as it is designed so make sure all holes are sealed up and put some plastic down on the floor because it will leak out in places.
That's good stuff, I used it to coat my whole cowl area and in my front rail supports before I put my new floor panels in. Even used it in that kick panel area where the fresh air comes in. I just hope it does what it says it will. Great video.
Does this stuff “encapsulate” the rust like bed liner? Locking in moisture and creating even more rust? My frames got some rust on the inside and I’d like to give it a go but not if it’s like that bed liner stuff
Used this product and so far happy with it. In addition to other areas we also sprayed the floor supports. Also the outer rocker has a drain hole in front of the rear tire. Great access point.
@JoDaddysGarage just out of curiosity, and feel free to decline to comment, but did the owner get the car back or do you still have it? Seems like it was a pretty big investment monetarily on his part and a huge investment in time and labor on yours. I'm definitely a fan and plan to check out some of your other projects but this one was really interesting as my dad has a 66 convertible that he is restoring. Been in the family over 50 years.
@JoDaddysGarage I hate to hear that but I can tell you that you've gained a fan based on what I have seen so far. Looking forward to some of your other series, particularly anything mustang related
good stuff Barry. i use carb clean to clean mine also.. cheap, easy to acquire, multi-use.. if you get a chance or come across another need to coat inside a panel, check out the SEM wand. its about $5 and has a 360 degree pattern. the eastwood one works, but streams the paint. the SEM one mists it in a nice spray pattern. it uses a plastic nozzle instead of a brass tip.
Drill an access hole any place you need. Plug it with rubber plug! That is what rust proofing companies do!! Spray OSPHO first and let cure. Add your cover coat next.
This was very informative and useful video. It really showed me what I wanted to see. I was curious to see how the product would lay down and coat internal surfaces. Especially when you really can't see what you are doing.
Yeah, I used a bore scope where I could and put a piece of tape on the scope “wand” for reference to know how far in I went and what I needed to get the tube into the cavity to the right spot. Double coat is a must for sure with how thin it is for full coverage. I’ve dug it so far. I made a scrap piece to see how it does in the long run. That was a year ago and it looks the same so it does something positive.
Dude this is great. Hopefully I can catch you on the next live stream, bc Ive got a bunch of questions about this product. My time is all messed up now that Im on Scotland time.
I would usually grab cavity wax but you can't use that until you finish painting. Since this is more of a zinc phosphate paint it might be a better choice in some applications.
Used that Eastwood product numerous times for inner rockers, inside door openings to seal the bottom hem, inside tailgate ECT.. Caution, I had a hose blow off the push button end once on an unused hose. Fortunately I had safety glasses on. Always clean the paint from within the hose with brake cleaner using the long stem on a standard spray can. The cost to buy a separate hose/nozzel assembly is outrageous so your viewers will need to clean the hose and brass nozzles fully to not have to buy expensive replacements.
You're really better off buying a proper Rust Proofing/Coating Gun with the long tube and different Spray Tips, the spiral one works well, and a can of Tectyl 506 or similar that will get right into the Seams, cover all your Drain Holes with Tape until it's finished and set, then just clean them.
I definitely love the internal frame coating it use to come in qt cans that you could use in a spray gun. I prefer the green version but have used the black with good results....its not only good in rockers....but also good where you can't get to rust like behind B pillars and under roof, inside cowl, lower A pillar as well as inside the upper A pillar not all of us can afford or have access to dipping a complete body to remove the rust.....atleast this way you can treat it.
Looks like a good product, I wonder if you will get any reactions when you spray other products ( primers etc) over the top, like where you have overspray on the trunk lid or if it creeps through the pinch weld seams.
hey stop using carb cleaner what you want to use is brake cleaner because it doesn't leave a residue or a oilyness. just a tip i learned at automotive school.
My amazon page: My Amazon page: www.amazon.com/shop/jodaddysgarage as an Amazon associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
Eastwood green: amzn.to/36CxkHo
Eastwood black: amzn.to/36OOXnc
Reminders me of zbart or something like that they would drill holes and had push in plastic plugs
Great videos!
I've watched them all up to this one.
I've looked over and over for #50? Do these continue?
Check the playlist. This may be one of the last. Unfortunately, I was unable to finish this car.
@@JoDaddysGarage oh bummer!
I loved all of these! I will get on to your other car series then!
Thank you for your fantastic detail and documentation.
Eastwood definitely owes you one! Because of this video, I'll be giving this product a try and based on some of the other comments I've read here, so will a lot of other viewers. Well Done Barry! Thanks!
Great video. Thanks for the info! Another option is 3M body cavity wax. You can buy long spray tubes that are already straight rather than curled up like the Eastwood tube.
I did the same process for the rockers on my 66' mustang. With a bore camera, I also verified the coverage. I too hope the treatment kills the rust and stops the rust growth. We'll know in a few years.
How is it so far?
@@VicsGarage71 So far so good.
What about now? Im thinking about buying it but i need someone who tells me how good it is standing after some time
good vid, thanks. like they say the show must go on. you kept your cool, if you didn't say anything people would have thought that it was part of the plan.
Another test could be put sprayed internal metal coating outside in elements and see how long it lasts.- great video
Nice I like 3m cativy wax works good don't dry keeps a wax
Best review I've seen on this product. Nicely done
Hey The best part of this product it consistency of water or slightly heavier and runs down into areas like seams and pinch welds. Give it a good first coat. I Did my Chevy Blazer with it and a slight drip landed on the asphalt driveway. It was years ago and it never wore off the pavement.
Drill access holes,and when finish spraying, get rubber caps to seal the holes. Older method is to spray a mix of oil and melted wax into frame to coat. FYI👍🏼 you can get the fiber optic cameras on Amazon less $30, to use with phones, and see inside where rust up is, and what was sealed.
With this type of exercise you need to manage your expectations. I believe it is not possible to cover all inner surfaces completely. My hope is to do this process in a way that will minimize the rot of the inner structure of my mustang, it's one of those better that nothing efforts. My primary focus will be the structure below my seat risers. Access will be from the bottom of the car, at least 4 holes exist. I will need to find a way to clean out the structure before applying the product. I'm thinking of a custom vacuum extension I will need to build myself.
Also, I must say, what you are witnessing is the extent people are willing to go to for their classic cars, car owners are demanding rust solutions for every nook and cranny. I may tape off the end of the spray tube and poke my own holes which may or may not be more effective. Might be better or I might make a big mess.
Thanks for the Amazon link.
One of my favorite channels for sure !!! Thanks for taking the time
I did my entire rebuild using this product and I used Eastwood “ pre” in aerosol to clean it... but it looks like carb cleaner works too! Great vid as usual!!!
You know what I like about your videos? They are always interesting, informative and they don't just apply to Mustangs. Techniques can be used on about any make or model so it is a learning experience for anyone interested in auto repair and restoration. Keep up the good ( great ) videos!
Great video Jo Daddy! I used the same product before and bought extra nozzles. Never thought about cleaning it. Once you use the can, it doesn't last long on the shelf.
Great demo, the process is not perfect, but a lot better than nothing
Thanks for the videos. I just started a 68 convertible.
Use caution… or gloves…
It looks pretty uneven and thin, but you didn’t shake it and went kinda fast.
And breathing the fumes probably isn't good for you.
I recently used this on a chevelle frame, and followed up with a boroscope. I found that it gave less than perfect coverage. One problem is that the can will stop spraying if it’s inverted and you won’t realize it. If I did it again I would cover the holes with clear tape to help monitor my progress. Also I would put a little tape at the end just before the nozzle so you know when you about to come out the hole. It would be nice if you could buy it in quarts and use an undercoating wand setup. I used four cans to do my frame. It does go on thin and flow into cracks as it is designed so make sure all holes are sealed up and put some plastic down on the floor because it will leak out in places.
That's good stuff, I used it to coat my whole cowl area and in my front rail supports before I put my new floor panels in. Even used it in that kick panel area where the fresh air comes in. I just hope it does what it says it will. Great video.
Does this stuff “encapsulate” the rust like bed liner? Locking in moisture and creating even more rust? My frames got some rust on the inside and I’d like to give it a go but not if it’s like that bed liner stuff
I can't say if it's any better or worse. I have another video where I use chassis saver, and blow it into the rocker cavity.
What ever happened to The Brooklyn Pony? Did it ever get finished?
No. The owner stopped sending me parts. I waited about 2 years and gave up.
Used this product and so far happy with it. In addition to other areas we also sprayed the floor supports. Also the outer rocker has a drain hole in front of the rear tire. Great access point.
A good informative video as usual Barry thanks
Good job Barry, that customer is getting a first class restoration.
So were you ever able to finish the car?
I was not. The owner was unable to continue the project.
@JoDaddysGarage just out of curiosity, and feel free to decline to comment, but did the owner get the car back or do you still have it? Seems like it was a pretty big investment monetarily on his part and a huge investment in time and labor on yours. I'm definitely a fan and plan to check out some of your other projects but this one was really interesting as my dad has a 66 convertible that he is restoring. Been in the family over 50 years.
He did get it back. I lost money on the deal. Very disappointed. Losing that project had a very negative effect on me and my channel.
@JoDaddysGarage I hate to hear that but I can tell you that you've gained a fan based on what I have seen so far. Looking forward to some of your other series, particularly anything mustang related
I have several series. Jade is my 68. Many videos to see there.
Just tape it to a hanger
good stuff Barry. i use carb clean to clean mine also.. cheap, easy to acquire, multi-use.. if you get a chance or come across another need to coat inside a panel, check out the SEM wand. its about $5 and has a 360 degree pattern. the eastwood one works, but streams the paint. the SEM one mists it in a nice spray pattern. it uses a plastic nozzle instead of a brass tip.
Drill an access hole any place you need. Plug it with rubber plug! That is what rust proofing companies do!! Spray OSPHO first and let cure. Add your cover coat next.
Good info.. is that a cool old wilton vise i see?
Yep. I have 2 of them. One on each side of the shop.
You can buy a Endo scope that mini USB eBay for under ten bucks five foot long
Good video
Great demonstration.👍
The instructions say to run 2 coats to get the proper coverage.
This was very informative and useful video. It really showed me what I wanted to see. I was curious to see how the product would lay down and coat internal surfaces. Especially when you really can't see what you are doing.
Great video!
Yeah, I used a bore scope where I could and put a piece of tape on the scope “wand” for reference to know how far in I went and what I needed to get the tube into the cavity to the right spot. Double coat is a must for sure with how thin it is for full coverage. I’ve dug it so far. I made a scrap piece to see how it does in the long run. That was a year ago and it looks the same so it does something positive.
That's pretty darn neat. Good way to protect a pillars and rockers
Dude this is great. Hopefully I can catch you on the next live stream, bc Ive got a bunch of questions about this product. My time is all messed up now that Im on Scotland time.
Literally just bought this at Fall Carlisle last weekend. Haven’t used it yet but thanks for the tips
I did this to my original hood.
I would usually grab cavity wax but you can't use that until you finish painting. Since this is more of a zinc phosphate paint it might be a better choice in some applications.
You can you can use a bore scope and inspect the inside to check it for coverage.
Used that Eastwood product numerous times for inner rockers, inside door openings to seal the bottom hem, inside tailgate ECT.. Caution, I had a hose blow off the push button end once on an unused hose. Fortunately I had safety glasses on. Always clean the paint from within the hose with brake cleaner using the long stem on a standard spray can. The cost to buy a separate hose/nozzel assembly is outrageous so your viewers will need to clean the hose and brass nozzles fully to not have to buy expensive replacements.
You're really better off buying a proper Rust Proofing/Coating Gun with the long tube and different Spray Tips, the spiral one works well, and a can of Tectyl 506 or similar that will get right into the Seams, cover all your Drain Holes with Tape until it's finished and set, then just clean them.
I definitely love the internal frame coating it use to come in qt cans that you could use in a spray gun. I prefer the green version but have used the black with good results....its not only good in rockers....but also good where you can't get to rust like behind B pillars and under roof, inside cowl, lower A pillar as well as inside the upper A pillar not all of us can afford or have access to dipping a complete body to remove the rust.....atleast this way you can treat it.
Can't understand why the subscribers members don't go up? Let's help and share this channel people
Id be curious what the difference is between green and black that green looks like etch primer and black like single stage paint 🤔
Love the detail!
The tube looks similar to a PTFE tube used for 3D printing. Available on Amazon
What happened with this car? Is it back with the owner?
No. Been waiting on parts for over 15 months now….
Looks like a good product, I wonder if you will get any reactions when you spray other products ( primers etc) over the top, like where you have overspray on the trunk lid or if it creeps through the pinch weld seams.
Hi Barry do you think that's better than cavity wax from Johan in South Africa
I believe they serve different purposes. Can't say if one is better than the other.
I think that the best method would be to use both. Internal Frame Coating first and than vax.
Haven't seen any videos about this car for months. Is the project delayed?
It is. I've been waiting on the owner to make some decisions.
There now going to change the nozzle. You just lost them money
they're
hey stop using carb cleaner what you want to use is brake cleaner because it doesn't leave a residue or a oilyness. just a tip i learned at automotive school.
Those snake cameras cost about as much as the paint. Think about the cool shots you could get with one.
hi barry grate i dear .