Converting your classic to an alternator is REALLY easy!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.พ. 2023
- Without a charging battery, i can't drive patch very far.
My options are simple, repair the dynamo or fit an alternator conversion kit.
The kit i brought from Morris Minor Spares (www.morrisminorspares.com/electrical-c54/electrical-switches-charging-c56/alternator-conversion-kit-std-mounting-bracket-includes-alternator-948-1098cc-p829719) and i am very pleased with the quality of the kit and how well it fits. The instructions are very clear and simple to follow
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That was really simple! I have a conversion kit for my traveller but for some reason the instructions didn't make it over to me in NZ... So I've been a bit weary of it. I've heard that it is an easy swap and when it is time for me to actually work on the engine etc, I have your wonderful guide as a reference. Thank you.
Glad I could help 🙂
We’ll done! I’m really enjoying your channel. Your brake bleeding tutorial saved the day with my A40 farina - I bought one of those cheap suction pumps and had several hours of failure. $10 on a 5 metre clear hose and had it sorted in under an hour thanks to you! Off to buy one off these kits. Cheers Todd
Glad you are enjoying it! Thanks for watching
I grew up with old British cars in New Zealand. Before the invasion of Japanese cars, we mostly ran on locally assembled British cars and some Australian Holdens. We're lucky that even in the cooler Southern regions, it's generally a milder climate than even Southern England.
I had lots of flat battery problems with my first Brit car until I realised that the Generator Regulator needed substantial adjustment (Despite the textbook saying "The regulator NEVER needs adjusting") . After that I regularly checked all my/my friends Generator cars and all but one needed the regulator tweaking slightly to bring the voltage up to recommended. . The vibrating points wear over the decades. Once adjusted I always had plenty of electric power despite fitting a rear window electric heater, plus many extra lights including daytime runners.
One day as a test I deliberately fitted a dud battery and then jump started it, then added load gradually at a just-above idle speed until the engine stalled. Similar to what you describe. But any battery that's even halfway good, should easily carry a car through such occasions.
The later Lucas generators were rated at 22 Amps (max power achieved at 70 kmh/ 44 mph in top gear on my car.) However a correctly adjusted Regulator will run the genny somewhere above that for short periods if it feels the need.
For a faithful restoration I much prefer keeping a DC generator fitted. However, especially for folks in colder climate countries and if a car is to be a daily driver in Winter half of the year, yeah, there's no way to beat an Alternator. They reach max power at close to half the equivalent road speed, so even tootling around town, there'll be plenty of power.
The earliest Alternators from the 1960’s/’70’s were rated at some 25 Amps. Whereas a halfway modern alternator from say the year 2000, as in my family Suzuki 1,000cc engine hatchback will be rated at 70 Amps.
That said, having a battery installed that is not half rooted anyway, is the first step to ensuring a decent charging system operation.
DC generator systems are happy to be exposed to 24 volts across the battery terminals, (by jumper-leading another battery in series with one battery terminal lead) for starting engines on cold mornings or if something else is tired, like compression low or sparkplugs due for replacement. The cut-out contactor (part of the Regulator unit) will fail to close as the generator peak voltage reaches less than 24 volts. Run the engine for 30 seconds, then extract the extra battery and it will start and run on 12 volts.
Thanks for watching
What a huge difference an alternator makes. I lived with a dynamo on my Austin Maxi for about 7 years. During the winter months one had to be very careful with around town use as there was less than an Amp to spare with the lights on while driving and while idleling there was nothing.
I even had it start to die at the traffic lights a few times quickly turning off the lights and revving the engine solved that.
Personally I thought the dynamo added character to the car
I agree the dynamo looks better. You can but a dynomator which is an alternator inside a dynamo casing but these do cost money £££
I grew up with old British cars in New Zealand. Before the invasion of Japanese cars, we mostly ran on locally assembled British cars and some Australian Holdens. We're lucky that even in the cooler Southern regions, it's generally a milder climate than even Southern England.
I had lots of flat battery problems with my first Brit car until I realised that the Generator Regulator needed substantial adjustment (Despite the textbook saying "The regulator NEVER needs adjusting") . After that I regularly checked all my/my friends Generator cars and all but one needed the regulator tweaking slightly to bring the voltage up to recommended. . The vibrating points wear over the decades. Once adjusted I always had plenty of electric power despite fitting a rear window electric heater, plus many extra lights including daytime runners.
One day as a test I deliberately fitted a dud battery and then jump started it, then added load gradually at a just-above idle speed until the engine stalled. Similar to what you describe. But any battery that's even halfway good, should easily carry a car through such occasions.
The later Lucas generators were rated at 22 Amps (max power achieved at 70 kmh/ 44 mph in top gear on my car.) However a correctly adjusted Regulator will run the genny somewhere above that for short periods if it feels the need.
For a faithful restoration I much prefer keeping a DC generator fitted. However, especially for folks in colder climate countries and if a car is to be a daily driver in Winter half of the year, yeah, there's no way to beat an Alternator. They reach max power at close to half the equivalent road speed, so even tootling around town, there'll be plenty of power.
The earliest Alternators from the 1960’s/’70’s were rated at some 25 Amps. Whereas a halfway modern alternator from say the year 2000, as in my family Suzuki 1,000cc engine hatchback will be rated at 70 Amps.
That said, having a battery installed that is not half rooted anyway, is the first step to ensuring a decent charging system operation.
DC generator systems are happy to be exposed to 24 volts across the battery terminals, (by jumper-leading another battery in series with one battery terminal lead) for starting engines on cold mornings or if something else is tired, like compression low or sparkplugs due for replacement. The cut-out contactor (part of the Regulator unit) will fail to close as the generator peak voltage reaches less than 24 volts. Run the engine for 30 seconds, then extract the extra battery and it will start and run on 12 volts.
Great job 👏
Thanks Nigel
Great explanation, Cheers 👍🏼
Thanks for watching
Nice one 👍👍
Thanks ✌️
I just bought the kit from the link and it’s changed somewhat according to the diagram provided you no longer remove the voltage regulator you just remove f and d then then two wires go to battery side of solenoid then one wire to d that’s it will see when I fit it hopefully it will work
Thanks for watching
Yep I've justed ordered and fitted one from esm. Haven't tested it yet as time was getting on, but didn't have to splice any wires.
@@samjackson3554 fitted mine the other day really easy to fit working well
Always best to check the polarity of the battery I advise . Some of the 60s models had positive earth. That’s an easy fix though
Good point! Thanks for watching
@@MarksWheels cheers and no worries. We all learn from eachother
Fit the new loom to the alternator before fitting the alternator. Saves faffing about in a restricted space.
Good tip! Thanks Colin
Hi Mark.I have got an alternator in my Moggy and I want to do away with the regulator like you have done.Could you please tell me how to sort the wiring.
Yeah ping me an email and il try and photograph the diagram and send it to you
@@MarksWheels thanks
👍 nice
Thanks for watching
Why did you not fit the new loom to the back of the alternator before fitting it onto the brackets? A lot easier especially as you knew you would be fitting the alternator mostly one handed.
You would have saved a lot of faffing around.
It definately would have been easier. I think i was following the instructions in order too closely to realise lol
Did I hear right that your car 'with' the alternator is positive earth?
As far as I know alternators are generally negative earth.
I've been reading that using positive earth can cause galvanic corrosion.
Not sure where i might have said that but the car is negative earth before and after the conversion
@@MarksWheels thank you for your reply, I must have heard wrong.
Can these instructions be downloaded please?
Not that I am aware of but I'll see if I still have the sheet and I'll email it to you
Are the instructions downloadable please? Thanks
Not that i am aware of but if you contact MorrisMinorSpares, im sure they would be able to send you one
@@MarksWheels Ah, Yes, I contacted ESM spares, they kindly sent a wiring diagram for a 3 wire alternator though. The alternator I have is only a 2 wire, so I'm not sure they've sent the correct one. Any thoughts pls? You seem to have the 2 wire unit. Thanks
Excellent job, but don't throw the regulator away. Some other Morris or MG owner may just be looking for one.
Yeah I've kept it and also have a second one in my box of spares
Want to do this with my minor, where are you based bro?
Hi Jack. I'm based in Eastbourne near Brighton
@@MarksWheels Oh okay, bit far from me. Have you converted the ignition too?
@@JackJackM Yes i have. I wasn't going to originally but ended up doing it for added reliability
Does that mean converted ignition to electronic (no points)?
Any idea what to do if you’ve got a 803?
I think the process would be the same
@@MarksWheels it’s just that conversation kit says it’s not compatible with the 803’ and can’t seem to find one at all online!
@@shanedavis4868 If the incompatibility was just the mounting brackets that come with the "kit" then any reasonable backyard mechanic or proper garage could easily make up brackets. Just a hammer and vice and some metal of suitable thickness. They wouldn't be shiny silver brackets like the ones in the kit, but easily spray painted silver or black, easy peasy.
How much was the kit?
£69.90 plus VAT
THANKS!
Hiya what is the link for this please
Hi Stephen, thanks for watching, Here is the link www.morrisminorspares.com/electrical-c54/electrical-switches-charging-c56/alternator-conversion-kit-std-mounting-bracket-includes-alternator-948-1098cc-p829719
Thanks ordered thanks for the video nice and simple should solve my light issue
@@stephenbell5099 Glad i could help
@@MarksWheels hiya do the brown and blue ones connect as one as I have no light on when turn key