I love watching these videos! My grandson showed me pictures of the plants where he's apprenticing at and i've always wondered how those large pipes are made. You guys are wonderfully patient and skilled! I wouldn't be able to do that as my attention span and patience has gotten shorter with age. Thank you and god bless!
Crazy how much the settings change as the process moves forward, great video I learned a lot! (Mainly that I need to change settings instead of behavior lol)
Best welding video I've ever seen. (I've seen a lot) I love the live commentary. The little tips for new players is fantastic. Don't forget to breathe. Is there a particular reason you can't use high frequency start on this while in the workshop? 10/10. Top stuff.
There is nothing stopping the use of hf start but the lack of a foot pedal or hand switch makes lift arc the preferred choice, especially in the field less to go wrong equipment wise
To snap out with a number 8 and that amperage the loose gas coverage to break the arc. There is post flow for the tungsten, but the stops get ground on the knife edge anyways, so the surface oxidation is removed in that process
Why doesn't the yanks use hf-start or even liftig? Is it for some practical reason, or is it for old times sake? I'm not being snide or anything. Just curious. And the few times I've used scratch start, I've had a piece of carbon to strike up on to avoid contaminating the tungsten. Isn't that an issue over there?
My thoughts exactly. It seems that Stick or even MIG is better suited for this job. I think TIG is more suited for more delicate jobs and where the looks is more important.
@@ArabGamesGeeks I’d restrict use of MIG for tertiary steel, not primary or secondary. For this Y connection i would guess the most cost effective process would be Flux cored FCAW.
I have a question my son is in the army and get out in December he is looking for a apprenticeship could you recommend any it would be greatly appreciated. I really enjoy all your content keep it coming
That fact they don't use amp control is almost incredible, I heard of people using "4T" but these guys literally pull the torch away to extinguish the arc... Losing gas coverage on the metal that is still molten... Truly a different experience compared to what I am used to.
They havent caught up with technical advancement yet over in the US👎 Dont like running nice hot roots either. The procedure we work to for carbon, states a 3.0 - 4.0mm root, 2.4mm fill rod and 115-135 anps. 85amps? We use that with 1.6mm rod for 300series stainless under 4" pipe lol
It's called lift arc. Lift arc or scratch arc are the most commonly used in field welding. You can't always set up a pedal or amperage control in order to softly diminish the arc and break the arc, so you drag the puddle away from the zone of the weld on the root pass and pull away to break the arc. That keeps you from getting any fish eyes or discontinuities in your weld zone. After the hot pass you can do the same action but speed up while dragging the puddle away from your stop and then break arc on top of the hot pass (if done correctly) without getting any defects as well. Also, as far as gas coverage on the "molten puddle" after the arc is broken and torch lifted away, it doesn't matter because this is carbon steel. It has no anti oxidizing properties in the filler wire, nor in the base metal. The only time you need to be mindful of post flow coverage after breaking your arc on a weld is with stainless steels and other high alloys.
@Alessio Sangalli There is absolutely a benefit to it when welding stainless and other high alloys in needing to slowly back off your amperage to break arc while being able to leave your cup directly over the weld metal to keep the gas flow coverage (post flow) on a stop. It helps keep it from "burning" out or oxidizing the stop and helps it retain its intended properties in the metal (stainless, anti oxidation, etc.). But, in this video, it is simulating a branch weld of carbon steel in the field. Carbon steel doesn't need any post flow at all. Most people don't have a TIG rig with an amperage control button while making big bore carbon steel welds. Furthermore, you don't need an amperage control button on a TIG rig when utilizing lift arc or scratch arc while welding carbon or even some stainless steels (like 309), because as long as you use lift arc right, all you have to do is quickly drag the puddle away from your stop area and after it makes a V shape and tapers out, you pull away quickly to break the arc. If it's stainless and it needs post flow, you move your cup back over your stop quickly and allow for post flow. There is nothing wrong with doing it this way, and it is how it is intended to be done. Even when welding stainless, you can still break arc the same way as in the video and then move your cup right back to your stop or "pull out" and keep it over it for the recommended post flow time period and then your good. It retains it's color and you're ready to start again after a quick filing of the stop. Basically, an amperage control button on a TIG rig and even a pedal is not needed if you utilize lift arc correctly. The only time I would even care about having an amperage control button or pedal is if I was welding something in a shop (with more time to spare), very thin or smaller diameter than 2 inches. Why? Because with thinner steel or small diameter piping, you don't have enough area to drag a puddle out to a taper and break arc without it being on the face of the finished product. That's the only time an amperage control button comes in handy. On big stuff like this, it is actually a waste of time thinking you need to slowly back off the amperage to diminish the arc every time. If you set and actually think about it, using the lift arc technique (like in the video) is actually faster when done properly. It may look like they are breaking arc exactly where they stopped, but they are not. They are quickly dragging the puddle away from the stop, letting it taper out while advancing the tungsten up and way from the metal (which does the same thing for your amperage in a sense as a far as decreasing it), and then quickly lifting the arc away and off. There's nothing wrong it and it's faster and more efficient in the field when mastered. You also have to realize that a lot of times when welding in the field for a company, you're not able to use your own welding setup. You're using what the company provides and a lot of those companies are not going to have a setup (welding machine capable of) that allows you to run an arc control button or even a pedal. So, doing heavy joint welding in the field (which is what this video is simulating), you are better off learning lift arc and using it solely. In a shop, that's a different story. Most shops have button or pedal controls to utilize.
@K F Running a "nice hot root" is all dependent on the welder and how they like to do things. If you weld this schedule 80 branch weld (that has very inconsistent gaps) at 115 - 135 amps, you're going to have a bad day. It's going to keyhole where you have bigger gaps and cause you to push too much filler wire to keep up and possibly cause a failure spot in a weld. With that being said, every welder has their own preferences and ways to make a weld. A lot of these guys like bigger gaps so they can dab and back feed the wire and run a little bit lower of an amperage range and some of them like a tighter gap so they can lay the wire over the gap, run a little higher amperage range and run right over the top of the wire. Everyone is different with what they are comfortable with. I prefer a tighter gap and lay wire. Why? Because a lot of places that you test will not allow a wider gap for back feeding and want the gap to be the same as or a little tighter than the smaller filler wires. Like 3/32" and 1/8". Why do they want a smaller gap? Well, because it saves time by decreasing the amount of filler it takes to complete the joint. On schedule 80, I like to run a tight 3/32" and then use a 1/8" filler wire at about 80-85 amps. It's fast and all I have to do is lay the wire in that gap and run right over the top of it with a little bit of wiggle from my torch to make sure I'm breaking the side walls down. There is more than one way to skin a cat. I also free hand my roots in, instead of walking it. I get the best results when free handing the root and with that, to account for any mishaps or bobbles I might have, I like to run a lower amperage to give me enough time to correct them on the fly without having to stop and create another tie in. You have to do what is comfortable for you, especially on a field weld with shitty gaps and fit up.
Brilliant, great vid👍, hello from Ireland🇮🇪. I got my Coded Pipe welding Certs, bout 2 /3 years back. I had a bit of work, but been finding it very hard to find any lately, could it be my age!? I'm 46 years old.
Try cold calling the company, just show your face at the door! I'm 39 and got a fitting job with a Tullamore engineering company a couple years ago by calling to the gate but also got an email from them to say I wasn't successful from an online application I'd made for the same feckin job! It's ridiculous but a lot of the time it's HR ticking boxes, if you're able to catch someone from the floor you'll have a better chance
My understanding is that MIG (the name of the process that normal people use) while providing an obviously far greater deposition rate, does not offer the kind of control required for code jobs, where there must be a guarantee of penetration.
@@STRYKER7191 it seems that with good engineering and welding practice your use case allows MIG welding with success, and as it can satisfy the requirements, it's by far the fastest choice.
Aqui no Brasil soldar com as duas mãos é obrigatório como vai trabalhar em uma caldeira ou serpentina soldando só com a direita soldar com as duas mãos é obrigatório a máscara de vcs é demais só material de primeira miler melhor maquina que existe otimo bocal pra soldar essa boca de lobo na 45 graus vcs são demais amei o canal aqui tbm conhece meus irmãos melhor profissão do mundo❤
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كربون ستيل لايحتاج كل هاذ التكلفة بلحام الآرغون يحلم بصباع اللحام ARC .WELDING
I love watching these videos! My grandson showed me pictures of the plants where he's apprenticing at and i've always wondered how those large pipes are made. You guys are wonderfully patient and skilled! I wouldn't be able to do that as my attention span and patience has gotten shorter with age. Thank you and god bless!
Amazing technique, amazing skill, insightful knowledge. Thanks again!
Tig welding is complicated but you amazingly work sir thank you sir.
ALWAYS HIGH QUALITY VIDEOS ON HERE! 🔥🔥🔥
Putting it down for EPT! Great job fellas! 🔥
Crazy how much the settings change as the process moves forward, great video I learned a lot! (Mainly that I need to change settings instead of behavior lol)
Best welding video I've ever seen. (I've seen a lot) I love the live commentary. The little tips for new players is fantastic. Don't forget to breathe. Is there a particular reason you can't use high frequency start on this while in the workshop? 10/10. Top stuff.
There is nothing stopping the use of hf start but the lack of a foot pedal or hand switch makes lift arc the preferred choice, especially in the field less to go wrong equipment wise
Why are you guys not letting utilizing the post flow? Every time you rip away that’s contamination in your stops.
To snap out with a number 8 and that amperage the loose gas coverage to break the arc. There is post flow for the tungsten, but the stops get ground on the knife edge anyways, so the surface oxidation is removed in that process
Just snatch your ground
Good to know about the long skinny cups!
Best comercial ever. I want that.
Nice Branch weld!
keep it up👍👍
Muito top orgulho de ser soldador !!! vcs tem os melhores equipamentos, me inspiro e procuro equipamentos de qualidade, parabéns 👏👏👏👏👏👏
Bless Beautiful work. Good thoughts for welders. Thanks 😊
Awesome work guys. Explained very well.
Wow nice job sir i love your videos sir this is fidelis from Bahrain 🇧🇭 i need a job to you sir
hola desde Chile muy buen trabajo siempre estoy pendiente de sus trabajos
Very nicely done.
Why doesn't the yanks use hf-start or even liftig? Is it for some practical reason, or is it for old times sake?
I'm not being snide or anything. Just curious.
And the few times I've used scratch start, I've had a piece of carbon to strike up on to avoid contaminating the tungsten. Isn't that an issue over there?
Excelente. Trabajo felicidades y feliz año 🎇🙏
Amazing skill brother
Why is being tig welded, wouldn’t it be faster and time efficient with stick rod?
My thoughts exactly. It seems that Stick or even MIG is better suited for this job.
I think TIG is more suited for more delicate jobs and where the looks is more important.
@@ArabGamesGeeks I’d restrict use of MIG for tertiary steel, not primary or secondary. For this Y connection i would guess the most cost effective process would be Flux cored FCAW.
I have a question my son is in the army and get out in December he is looking for a apprenticeship could you recommend any it would be greatly appreciated. I really enjoy all your content keep it coming
So why do you guys use lift Tig instead of high frequency?
Waw..super Quality 👍👍🤝🇮🇩 my from indonesia
Good work lads
Good process bro 🔥❤️🇮🇩
Thanks for the sharing, showing and explaining!
That fact they don't use amp control is almost incredible, I heard of people using "4T" but these guys literally pull the torch away to extinguish the arc... Losing gas coverage on the metal that is still molten... Truly a different experience compared to what I am used to.
They havent caught up with technical advancement yet over in the US👎
Dont like running nice hot roots either. The procedure we work to for carbon, states a 3.0 - 4.0mm root, 2.4mm fill rod and 115-135 anps.
85amps? We use that with 1.6mm rod for 300series stainless under 4" pipe lol
It's called lift arc. Lift arc or scratch arc are the most commonly used in field welding. You can't always set up a pedal or amperage control in order to softly diminish the arc and break the arc, so you drag the puddle away from the zone of the weld on the root pass and pull away to break the arc. That keeps you from getting any fish eyes or discontinuities in your weld zone. After the hot pass you can do the same action but speed up while dragging the puddle away from your stop and then break arc on top of the hot pass (if done correctly) without getting any defects as well. Also, as far as gas coverage on the "molten puddle" after the arc is broken and torch lifted away, it doesn't matter because this is carbon steel. It has no anti oxidizing properties in the filler wire, nor in the base metal. The only time you need to be mindful of post flow coverage after breaking your arc on a weld is with stainless steels and other high alloys.
@@LeadRakFPS I use a Tig button amp control mounted on my torch. I don't use a pedal anymore even for bench welds. Maybe this technology could benefit
@Alessio Sangalli There is absolutely a benefit to it when welding stainless and other high alloys in needing to slowly back off your amperage to break arc while being able to leave your cup directly over the weld metal to keep the gas flow coverage (post flow) on a stop. It helps keep it from "burning" out or oxidizing the stop and helps it retain its intended properties in the metal (stainless, anti oxidation, etc.). But, in this video, it is simulating a branch weld of carbon steel in the field. Carbon steel doesn't need any post flow at all. Most people don't have a TIG rig with an amperage control button while making big bore carbon steel welds. Furthermore, you don't need an amperage control button on a TIG rig when utilizing lift arc or scratch arc while welding carbon or even some stainless steels (like 309), because as long as you use lift arc right, all you have to do is quickly drag the puddle away from your stop area and after it makes a V shape and tapers out, you pull away quickly to break the arc. If it's stainless and it needs post flow, you move your cup back over your stop quickly and allow for post flow. There is nothing wrong with doing it this way, and it is how it is intended to be done. Even when welding stainless, you can still break arc the same way as in the video and then move your cup right back to your stop or "pull out" and keep it over it for the recommended post flow time period and then your good. It retains it's color and you're ready to start again after a quick filing of the stop. Basically, an amperage control button on a TIG rig and even a pedal is not needed if you utilize lift arc correctly. The only time I would even care about having an amperage control button or pedal is if I was welding something in a shop (with more time to spare), very thin or smaller diameter than 2 inches. Why? Because with thinner steel or small diameter piping, you don't have enough area to drag a puddle out to a taper and break arc without it being on the face of the finished product. That's the only time an amperage control button comes in handy. On big stuff like this, it is actually a waste of time thinking you need to slowly back off the amperage to diminish the arc every time. If you set and actually think about it, using the lift arc technique (like in the video) is actually faster when done properly. It may look like they are breaking arc exactly where they stopped, but they are not. They are quickly dragging the puddle away from the stop, letting it taper out while advancing the tungsten up and way from the metal (which does the same thing for your amperage in a sense as a far as decreasing it), and then quickly lifting the arc away and off. There's nothing wrong it and it's faster and more efficient in the field when mastered. You also have to realize that a lot of times when welding in the field for a company, you're not able to use your own welding setup. You're using what the company provides and a lot of those companies are not going to have a setup (welding machine capable of) that allows you to run an arc control button or even a pedal. So, doing heavy joint welding in the field (which is what this video is simulating), you are better off learning lift arc and using it solely. In a shop, that's a different story. Most shops have button or pedal controls to utilize.
@K F Running a "nice hot root" is all dependent on the welder and how they like to do things. If you weld this schedule 80 branch weld (that has very inconsistent gaps) at 115 - 135 amps, you're going to have a bad day. It's going to keyhole where you have bigger gaps and cause you to push too much filler wire to keep up and possibly cause a failure spot in a weld. With that being said, every welder has their own preferences and ways to make a weld. A lot of these guys like bigger gaps so they can dab and back feed the wire and run a little bit lower of an amperage range and some of them like a tighter gap so they can lay the wire over the gap, run a little higher amperage range and run right over the top of the wire. Everyone is different with what they are comfortable with. I prefer a tighter gap and lay wire. Why? Because a lot of places that you test will not allow a wider gap for back feeding and want the gap to be the same as or a little tighter than the smaller filler wires. Like 3/32" and 1/8". Why do they want a smaller gap? Well, because it saves time by decreasing the amount of filler it takes to complete the joint. On schedule 80, I like to run a tight 3/32" and then use a 1/8" filler wire at about 80-85 amps. It's fast and all I have to do is lay the wire in that gap and run right over the top of it with a little bit of wiggle from my torch to make sure I'm breaking the side walls down. There is more than one way to skin a cat. I also free hand my roots in, instead of walking it. I get the best results when free handing the root and with that, to account for any mishaps or bobbles I might have, I like to run a lower amperage to give me enough time to correct them on the fly without having to stop and create another tie in. You have to do what is comfortable for you, especially on a field weld with shitty gaps and fit up.
No post flow when stopping?
how do you not get suck back when key holeing it. wouldn’t the excess heat cause that?
Brilliant, great vid👍, hello from Ireland🇮🇪. I got my Coded Pipe welding Certs, bout 2 /3 years back. I had a bit of work, but been finding it very hard to find any lately, could it be my age!? I'm 46 years old.
Try cold calling the company, just show your face at the door! I'm 39 and got a fitting job with a Tullamore engineering company a couple years ago by calling to the gate but also got an email from them to say I wasn't successful from an online application I'd made for the same feckin job! It's ridiculous but a lot of the time it's HR ticking boxes, if you're able to catch someone from the floor you'll have a better chance
Which brand wire wheel disc is that? Makes it looks really clean!
Tig welding takes forever. I do laterals all with GMAW.
My understanding is that MIG (the name of the process that normal people use) while providing an obviously far greater deposition rate, does not offer the kind of control required for code jobs, where there must be a guarantee of penetration.
@@AlessioSangalli i pass all my x-rays
@@STRYKER7191 in what industry?
@@AlessioSangalli Pressure welding. Pipe welding ect. The work I is usually done to ASME B31.3 and some boiler code.
@@STRYKER7191 it seems that with good engineering and welding practice your use case allows MIG welding with success, and as it can satisfy the requirements, it's by far the fastest choice.
How much argon was used on this piece? I could hear them cups whistling pretty loud.
Why pull the cup away as soon as the arc has finished??
Hello sir..i have one question for u, what the name Of meterial pipe and wire code
Is there any benefit doing this with TIG other then the look ?
Very nice and very good penitrate I like it.
🤙🤙
Good job,
How much gas flow were you guys running with those XXL cups?
How long did this take in real time?
I would guess a whole twelve hour shift maybe more to fit everything up and weld. Definitely not the fastest process
I would guess a whole twelve hour shift maybe more to fit everything up and weld. Definitely not the fastest process
I can cut, fit saddlesn root,fill, and cap this samecexact joint in roughly 70mins
Good weld
Buenos videos, deberían de agregarle subtitulos en español
Great welders and results!
Aqui no Brasil soldar com as duas mãos é obrigatório como vai trabalhar em uma caldeira ou serpentina soldando só com a direita soldar com as duas mãos é obrigatório a máscara de vcs é demais só material de primeira miler melhor maquina que existe otimo bocal pra soldar essa boca de lobo na 45 graus vcs são demais amei o canal aqui tbm conhece meus irmãos melhor profissão do mundo❤
Unless that's a material that calls for tig root and fill an SMAW fill and and cover pass would be less expensive
Scratch start sets just scream problems to me terminating the arc with no downslope and post flow
Badass!
👍👍
What in the world is that cup!?!
XXLong Cup
@@weldtube .....some times you just need a longer cup...or a bigger.... maybe both..
🍆😆
Hello, I’m from El Paso. Where exactly are you guys located?
They are in Houston, south coast welding academy to be exact
vorrei acquistare una maschera !!
Conpas demen trabajo
Hi sir i am new subscriber excellent work done ✅ which brand welding machine is used you sir thank you very much sir.
Miller XMT 350 and Miller CST 282
🙏🙏
날 새것슈.
👍 Good
Интересно что покажет рентген на корне шва. На съёмке видно много ошибок при сварке корня.
Structural Y connection wouldn’t be subject to x-ray or gamma. This joint configuration would normally be checked ultrasonically.
Thank you so much for you so beautiful Your wilding thanks
Hello I’m Werder can you hire me gtaw Smaw and all so fitter
7: 30 defect
Why not mig weld lot quicker !!!
C'est du bon travail mais un piquage de ce diamètre ce termine à la baguette
Why don't you just wire feed?
Where is the post flow?
You're literally breaking your arc by pulling the torch away, giving no postflow at all.
Dirty contaminated weld for sure.
Fhe thick is eaay to weld
Perfect 🇦🇿
every single helmet is sold out, like for ever. whats the deal wit that?
I Am
Mala aplicación en el pase de raiz
Weld bead is bad enough