Pinche al! Love the videos! But hey, know you are replacing the tie Rod ends but for those who remove them without replacing hem, you should inform them of the way to remove it without damaging it. There is a little rectangle pad on the steering knuckle that you hit with a dead blow, maybe 1 or 2 good hits and it pops out without damaging anytbkng. That's what the part on the knuckle is for.
The lube for those bushings not only help them go in but it is also supposed to help them from squeaking so you do want to put some on the bushing itself because it will basically squeegee it out. Also getting an acid brush helps keep it from getting everywhere that you touch because that stuff is really sticky
thanks dude good lookin out! for anyone that broke off that nut in the subframe you can get it with a clothing hangar and screwdrivers, I had someone hold it in place with a flathead while putting in new bolt
hey bro just did this job on the weekend and striped that nut you were talking about in the k member... thanks for the tips on how to fix it. looks like im in for some drillin, and cussin
Pinche Al, Get down , Awesome Videos. Keep them coming. Thanks for all the Tips and tricks. Worked on transportation my whole life, never German. Keep doing you Man...
Hello! Love your videos and they are very very Helpfull!! Did the SAI n79 and egr think it was Delete kit.. Got it right the first time! thanks to you.. hey I only bought the Tie rod Ends (terminals) Can i just change those?
Nice Video !! The stance look nice as well. What spec tires and rims are you using? And what and size spacers are you using? Is the vehicle lowered? Any camber change? Thanks
moh7979 wheel specs are 18 8.5 front with no spacers 18 9.5 rear no spacer Rear had IDG lowering plates Tires are 18/40/205 front 18/40/215 rear Rear has 2 degress of negative camber Front has no camber
I love this video, until I went to install the ball joint that connects to the control arm. It just spins when I put the locking nut on. There is a place to hold the stud(allen) coming out of the ball joint but of course the Axle needs to come out to it. So how did you pull this job off without pulling the axle out of the hub?
Very carefully apply a small amount of jacking force upwards against the bottom of the ball joint. Not much, just enough to press the tapered stud into it's steering knuckle home and give you enough bite to prevent it from turning with the nut. If it still turns you must have some grease and grime on the mating surfaces.
Hello i have a problem with my mk 4 golf I installed brand new control arms but they hit the subframe where the subframe mounts on the chassis any way on how I can fix that? They are exactly the same as the original control arms
Thx for the video. I'm doing lcas, tierods, swaybar bushings and ran into a snag. The ball joint nuts are frozen. Used wd40 rust release penatrant to no avail. The lca bj nut wont spin and I can't get to the t40 torx cuz it is blocked by the axle. The tierod nut moved 3 threads and the t40 hole stripped. How do you remove each in these situations. The front/rear lca bushing bolts anf 3-13mm bolts removed w/o issue.
PincheAls Garage... Thx... Ahead of you on that...started cutting the tierod nuts and will get the bj nuts tomorrow...14yo car rust sucks balls. Appreciate what you do for the vw community 👍
Dude. I cannot get the smaller bushings in. It’s gotten to the point where I’m removing material off of the lip to make it go in. It keeps gettin fat in the middle and WILL NOT go in.
Yeah they are a major pain to install. Are you using a curved set of vice grips to help with the middle of the bushing. Plus use a lot of the lube they provide.
Why is solid poly a "big upgrade"? Do you think VW wouldn't make them solid if it was better? They are made of rubber and have holes for a reason - they are intended to act like a small shock absorber. Using full rubber or solid is only advisable for racing or if you drive exclusively on perfect roads. If that is not the case they are bound to fail and/or put a lot of stress on the other suspension components.
Funny thing they did made them solid on the R32 and Audi TT because it is better. They increase road feel and provide much better steering response. That is why a lot of people go to R32/TT soild Bushings or poly
@@PincheALsGarage i didn’t know that detail, interesting. But again, even between a 90hp and 130hp TDI there are big differences in things like clutch etc - not just the hp difference. So yes provided you upgrade other components as well I guess solid bushings can be a good upgrade.
@@zaratrusta79 even back in my mk2 days running coilovers I would use the r32 solid bushings , they would still get wrecked riding low but they would outlast the stock bushings with the holes . I don't think personally I would run poly bushings on a tdi (just me) but I'm about to install the r32/ tt bushings on my tdi golf they seem to be a better option then the "cut out" stock versions and a bit more durable
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Wish you lived closer... I'm still recovering from a wrist surgery.
Pinche al! Love the videos! But hey, know you are replacing the tie Rod ends but for those who remove them without replacing hem, you should inform them of the way to remove it without damaging it. There is a little rectangle pad on the steering knuckle that you hit with a dead blow, maybe 1 or 2 good hits and it pops out without damaging anytbkng. That's what the part on the knuckle is for.
The lube for those bushings not only help them go in but it is also supposed to help them from squeaking so you do want to put some on the bushing itself because it will basically squeegee it out. Also getting an acid brush helps keep it from getting everywhere that you touch because that stuff is really sticky
thanks dude good lookin out! for anyone that broke off that nut in the subframe you can get it with a clothing hangar and screwdrivers, I had someone hold it in place with a flathead while putting in new bolt
hey bro just did this job on the weekend and striped that nut you were talking about in the k member... thanks for the tips on how to fix it. looks like im in for some drillin, and cussin
Yeah it happens. It sucks but it's not that hard of a fix
Jubilee/hose clamp around the smaller bushing helps out loads.
Pinche Al, Get down , Awesome Videos. Keep them coming. Thanks for all the Tips and tricks. Worked on transportation my whole life, never German. Keep doing you Man...
Thank you for the kind words and I will get doing what I do!
You will need an alignment after that, even if no tie rod removed. Ball joint out is enough reason
You are very correct!!!!
@@PincheALsGarage 🥰
I feel confident now.
Yo man your videos are great for DIYers good stuff!
Johnny Ionescu if you like them please share my channel and spread the word. I would love more subscriber's.
Hello! Love your videos and they are very very Helpfull!! Did the SAI n79 and egr think it was Delete kit.. Got it right the first time! thanks to you..
hey I only bought the Tie rod Ends (terminals) Can i just change those?
Yes!
Great stuff! Exactly what I need to do.
Intro music left me tripping over myself to turn the volume down before it blew my fucking speakers!!
Great video!
Thanks!
Nice Video !! The stance look nice as well. What spec tires and rims are you using? And what and size spacers are you using? Is the vehicle lowered? Any camber change? Thanks
moh7979 wheel specs are 18 8.5 front with no spacers
18 9.5 rear no spacer
Rear had IDG lowering plates
Tires are 18/40/205 front
18/40/215 rear
Rear has 2 degress of negative camber
Front has no camber
moh7979 car is on bags
Not a good idea these polyurethane bushings. The rubber ones in metal outer ring is designed with a directional fitment for a good reason.
I love this video, until I went to install the ball joint that connects to the control arm. It just spins when I put the locking nut on. There is a place to hold the stud(allen) coming out of the ball joint but of course the Axle needs to come out to it. So how did you pull this job off without pulling the axle out of the hub?
Very carefully apply a small amount of jacking force upwards against the bottom of the ball joint. Not much, just enough to press the tapered stud into it's steering knuckle home and give you enough bite to prevent it from turning with the nut. If it still turns you must have some grease and grime on the mating surfaces.
@@dharm3974 Worked like a charm! Took in for an alignment. Drives like a different car.
@@jonwikan3986 Glad to hear!
Hello i have a problem with my mk 4 golf I installed brand new control arms but they hit the subframe where the subframe mounts on the chassis any way on how I can fix that? They are exactly the same as the original control arms
Which size socket did you need to remove the larger bushing at 14:12?
Walker Stone I rented a race and bearing removal tool from AutoZone. So i can remove the larger bushing
Thx for the video. I'm doing lcas, tierods, swaybar bushings and ran into a snag. The ball joint nuts are frozen. Used wd40 rust release penatrant to no avail.
The lca bj nut wont spin and I can't get to the t40 torx cuz it is blocked by the axle. The tierod nut moved 3 threads and the t40 hole stripped. How do you remove each in these situations.
The front/rear lca bushing bolts anf 3-13mm bolts removed w/o issue.
K03sport cut them off
PincheAls Garage... Thx... Ahead of you on that...started cutting the tierod nuts and will get the bj nuts tomorrow...14yo car rust sucks balls. Appreciate what you do for the vw community 👍
Dude. I cannot get the smaller bushings in. It’s gotten to the point where I’m removing material off of the lip to make it go in. It keeps gettin fat in the middle and WILL NOT go in.
Yeah they are a major pain to install. Are you using a curved set of vice grips to help with the middle of the bushing. Plus use a lot of the lube they provide.
Why is solid poly a "big upgrade"? Do you think VW wouldn't make them solid if it was better? They are made of rubber and have holes for a reason - they are intended to act like a small shock absorber. Using full rubber or solid is only advisable for racing or if you drive exclusively on perfect roads. If that is not the case they are bound to fail and/or put a lot of stress on the other suspension components.
Funny thing they did made them solid on the R32 and Audi TT because it is better.
They increase road feel and provide much better steering response.
That is why a lot of people go to R32/TT soild Bushings or poly
Anything but stock will increase more stress on the equipment that is why we upgrade everything else to help overall not just Bushings
@@PincheALsGarage i didn’t know that detail, interesting. But again, even between a 90hp and 130hp TDI there are big differences in things like clutch etc - not just the hp difference. So yes provided you upgrade other components as well I guess solid bushings can be a good upgrade.
@@zaratrusta79 even back in my mk2 days running coilovers I would use the r32 solid bushings , they would still get wrecked riding low but they would outlast the stock bushings with the holes . I don't think personally I would run poly bushings on a tdi (just me) but I'm about to install the r32/ tt bushings on my tdi golf they seem to be a better option then the "cut out" stock versions and a bit more durable
Where can i buy dub parts for my mk4
Cesar www.ecstuning.com
Mjmautohaus.com
Urotuning.com
Camera view did not show very well
Sorry
Do you have any advice on avoiding the nut falling off in the subframe? Penetrating oil? Heat?
No sorry