1. Just love seeing what the car is capable of in the right hands! 2. With your exhaust setup it sounds very GT3'esque, sounds very close in pitch minus the extra RPMs up top, which is impressive considering stock sounds nothing close.
The K-Line Inconel exhaust was the most expensive upgrade on the car, but completely transformed it. I recommend everyone get one (even the half as expensive steel version is amazingly close to the same sound). Still passes smog with valves closed and is as quiet as stock closed in the same setting. This is with the stock headers, which I suggest so it will continue to pass 103/105 dB track days. Not much of a power upgrade since it is N/A, but sound is such a big factor to enjoying the car.
What an amazing gift for Christmas!! Kudos to including the extra clips at the end! Really shows the different perspectives. I've got two questions after watching your video: 1. What alignment specs are you running on your Spyder? I'm a new 981 Spyder owner (previously a 981 BS owner) and want to dial in the car for the track. I've got the Tarett front LCAs on hand originally purchased for the BS, but it seems like with the PTV system standard on the Spyder, the understeer I experienced on the Boxster S is nonexistent, and it makes me think that I don't really need to install the adjustable front LCAs anymore. Your alignment spec would hopefully help me decide whether or not to install them as I see zero understeer in your current setup! 2. Looks like the TC light on the white 991.2 GT3RS at the end of the video is flashing during almost every single track-out. Is it simply due to some worn-out rear tires or it's the PSM being overly conservative? Seems a real struggle for the driver to put down the power (sometimes even shortshifting as a counter-measure) and I thought the rear-engine placement is meant to solve exactly that?? Really surprised to see a GT3RS struggling to keep up with a Spyder! I've never driven a 911 (let alone their GT versions) on the track so I'm curious to know your thoughts on the comparison between mid vs rear engine placement! Thank you and Merry Christmas!!
Thank you glad you enjoyed! 1. A lot of what helps the 718 Spyder is having the GT3 suspension up front. Tom Chan from TPC was the one who helped me out. I recommend reaching out to him as he is the master, just mention I sent you his way (he will share my setup). The only thing I did different than his setup was going full soft both front and rear with the bar settings and did stiffer springs. I suggest getting his DSC controller and doing any mod's he suggests. The base we were using was a 718 GT4, so I suppose the reduced rigidity of the Spyder and having lift rather than downforce above 100mph required my changes (although the springs really aren't necessary - when I drove a Spyder without them it was apparent the DSC is what you need). 2. Yeah. Serge was just on insanely old tires this day. He wasn't even sure if he could run the whole day, but I'm glad he did. Even felt bad sharing his video because on good tires he would blast by me. Worked to my advantage this time :) - The TC/ESC doesn't normally intrude that much for him at Sonoma on better tires. The 992 GT3 is a big improvement though on TC/ESC intrusion over the 991.2 GT3 RS.
Having had a ZL1 1LE myself, I see people give these things incredibly high praise. Can you give your feedback on what the driving dynamics are like between the two of them and if you miss the power difference?
Great video, thank you for sharing! Question about the TC - i see you have the TC + ESC turned off. Is that a personal preference? Wouldn't you have a better shot at faster times with it turned on? Sorry, im not familiar with track driving yet.
I'd always recommend to others to keep all the nannies on. You can really only squeeze a couple or few tenths out of the lap times with it all off if you take full advantage of it. I enjoy feeling the balance of the car without the nannies intervening, and can take advantage of that last little bit safely, so I always run cars full off. They actually distract me when they intervene and don't let me use a few tools to rotate the car. Maybe I'll make a video on it someday, would be an interesting topic to unravel.
I really love following your story. Great driving! You have convinced me that the Spyder is LEGIT on track. I have a 2022 718 Spyder in Shark Blue with buckets and Akropovic OAP. I have driven all original 9,000 road miles, but this year I would like to take it to the track. I have many years experience on the track in GT3 and some in a 986 Boxster, but not in a 718 Spyder. Any insight before I take my Spyder to the track? Thank you!
Appreciate you following along! I would say they are great out of the box. If you want a big jump up in how it feels on track, reach out to Tom Chan from TPC and get a DSC controller from him. He knows all of the good suspension components if you want to go down the rabbit hole like I did, but just a DSC controller programmed by him will make a big improvement with no effort of installing.
@@TurninTrackOut you saying "great out of the box" is all I needed to hear for the first trip. My GT3 mentioned above was a 2007. I did the big jump on the GT3 with the mods and all. The Spyder has about the same HP. So I am used to that kind of power on the track, but I'm sure there is difference in the way they each handle. I haven't been on the track since the begging of Covid, and a great car to get back on track.
Driven both. I'd say a couple/few years ago the .1 sounded nice with the 10 year engine warranty, but those are coming to an end soon. I would most definitely spend the extra on a .2 GT3. Amazing car, you won't be disappointed. Much faster than the 718 GT4/Spyder and dry sump so the engine should be good for a long time!
What front camber were you running on the ZL1-1LE to get only 7 sessions. Were you running the -2.7 just from rotating the struts, or were you maxing out at -3.5 with the camber adjustment bolts on the strut body? I ran -3.5 before and would also cord after 1 day or 6 sessions approximately. With -2.7 on the ZL1-1LE I can get about 13-14 sessions before cording.
I tried everything from 2.7 to 3.4 - always cording on the outside. It might partially be due to our tracks and also the way that I drive. I'd say the rear's would heat cycle out to where you were 3+ seconds slower per lap after 12 sessions regardless. I found with the 12C and the Spyder after a couple days you're still within about 2 seconds of your first session lap time.
@@TurninTrackOut Thanks. That''s very good info. Last season I was meticulous about rotating the wheels in the front to get max life out of them. My tracks in the Northeast are mostly RH corners so switching wheels from L to R works pretty good. This stuff is just too expensive. This is one of the reasons why I like the 570s. It's got supercar acceleration and it really doesn't beat up tires too badly. That car just needs a little bit more downforce though. I may add that car soon.
So true about rotating helps a lot. I think MSO makes some pretty good aero packages for not too much on the 570s. Completely agree it needs it. A bit tail happy on track on corner entry.
@@TurninTrackOut Thanks! Hey, one last question. I've also looked at the 12C for a track day car but I noticed that you got yours to overheat quite a few times. Was your car stock when it went into limp mode? I'm at the faster end of my HPDE events and I was wondering if heat would be an issue in Northeast temps with a 12C. For a 12 year old car those things are still very capable of some serious lap times.
@@Turbo329 Yeah my 12C was always stock just switched to steel brakes. I would say it will do okay for 90 degree or under track days. Will overheat in 20 min sessions if driven hard above 90 degree ambient days. I also ran into the brakes overheating after about 13 minutes regardless of the temperature outside. I think brake ducting would have been my next add-on. Just make sure to definitely buy from a dealership as a CPO and 100% get the aftermarket warranty. I think they can only do the aftermarket warranty for 10 years, but I'm not certain about that, just make sure to check. You'll definitely want it. The car is insanely capable, actually surprised me.
Hi from 718 Spyder owner in UK - some nice driving good to see the TC and ESC off 👍
1. Just love seeing what the car is capable of in the right hands!
2. With your exhaust setup it sounds very GT3'esque, sounds very close in pitch minus the extra RPMs up top, which is impressive considering stock sounds nothing close.
The K-Line Inconel exhaust was the most expensive upgrade on the car, but completely transformed it. I recommend everyone get one (even the half as expensive steel version is amazingly close to the same sound). Still passes smog with valves closed and is as quiet as stock closed in the same setting. This is with the stock headers, which I suggest so it will continue to pass 103/105 dB track days. Not much of a power upgrade since it is N/A, but sound is such a big factor to enjoying the car.
it is Kline (not K-Line) in case anyone searches for it. I have the stainless steel version and it sounds amazing, it does transform the experience
Sounds amazing! Can I ask if this is with OPF filters still installed?
What an amazing gift for Christmas!! Kudos to including the extra clips at the end! Really shows the different perspectives. I've got two questions after watching your video:
1. What alignment specs are you running on your Spyder? I'm a new 981 Spyder owner (previously a 981 BS owner) and want to dial in the car for the track. I've got the Tarett front LCAs on hand originally purchased for the BS, but it seems like with the PTV system standard on the Spyder, the understeer I experienced on the Boxster S is nonexistent, and it makes me think that I don't really need to install the adjustable front LCAs anymore. Your alignment spec would hopefully help me decide whether or not to install them as I see zero understeer in your current setup!
2. Looks like the TC light on the white 991.2 GT3RS at the end of the video is flashing during almost every single track-out. Is it simply due to some worn-out rear tires or it's the PSM being overly conservative? Seems a real struggle for the driver to put down the power (sometimes even shortshifting as a counter-measure) and I thought the rear-engine placement is meant to solve exactly that?? Really surprised to see a GT3RS struggling to keep up with a Spyder! I've never driven a 911 (let alone their GT versions) on the track so I'm curious to know your thoughts on the comparison between mid vs rear engine placement!
Thank you and Merry Christmas!!
Thank you glad you enjoyed!
1. A lot of what helps the 718 Spyder is having the GT3 suspension up front. Tom Chan from TPC was the one who helped me out. I recommend reaching out to him as he is the master, just mention I sent you his way (he will share my setup). The only thing I did different than his setup was going full soft both front and rear with the bar settings and did stiffer springs. I suggest getting his DSC controller and doing any mod's he suggests. The base we were using was a 718 GT4, so I suppose the reduced rigidity of the Spyder and having lift rather than downforce above 100mph required my changes (although the springs really aren't necessary - when I drove a Spyder without them it was apparent the DSC is what you need).
2. Yeah. Serge was just on insanely old tires this day. He wasn't even sure if he could run the whole day, but I'm glad he did. Even felt bad sharing his video because on good tires he would blast by me. Worked to my advantage this time :) - The TC/ESC doesn't normally intrude that much for him at Sonoma on better tires. The 992 GT3 is a big improvement though on TC/ESC intrusion over the 991.2 GT3 RS.
Having had a ZL1 1LE myself, I see people give these things incredibly high praise. Can you give your feedback on what the driving dynamics are like between the two of them and if you miss the power difference?
This spyder looks to be pulling better than the gt4 yellow video before of yours
Probably just the extra weight and the different track. I hit the same speeds roughly in them. I also had 19" wheels so the dash read higher.
Great video, thank you for sharing! Question about the TC - i see you have the TC + ESC turned off. Is that a personal preference? Wouldn't you have a better shot at faster times with it turned on? Sorry, im not familiar with track driving yet.
I'd always recommend to others to keep all the nannies on. You can really only squeeze a couple or few tenths out of the lap times with it all off if you take full advantage of it. I enjoy feeling the balance of the car without the nannies intervening, and can take advantage of that last little bit safely, so I always run cars full off. They actually distract me when they intervene and don't let me use a few tools to rotate the car. Maybe I'll make a video on it someday, would be an interesting topic to unravel.
I really love following your story. Great driving! You have convinced me that the Spyder is LEGIT on track. I have a 2022 718 Spyder in Shark Blue with buckets and Akropovic OAP. I have driven all original 9,000 road miles, but this year I would like to take it to the track. I have many years experience on the track in GT3 and some in a 986 Boxster, but not in a 718 Spyder. Any insight before I take my Spyder to the track? Thank you!
Appreciate you following along! I would say they are great out of the box. If you want a big jump up in how it feels on track, reach out to Tom Chan from TPC and get a DSC controller from him. He knows all of the good suspension components if you want to go down the rabbit hole like I did, but just a DSC controller programmed by him will make a big improvement with no effort of installing.
@@TurninTrackOut you saying "great out of the box" is all I needed to hear for the first trip. My GT3 mentioned above was a 2007. I did the big jump on the GT3 with the mods and all. The Spyder has about the same HP. So I am used to that kind of power on the track, but I'm sure there is difference in the way they each handle. I haven't been on the track since the begging of Covid, and a great car to get back on track.
Just bought a 22 yellow 718 Spyder myself, when you got the Kline did you get the heat shielding? And if not did you notice any adverse effects?
I really want to try the is track in real life because I hate it on the sim but is so popular I feel like the sim experience isn't right
Should only get better with the repave!
when you say 12c do you mean mclaren mp4 12c?
Dude you didn't disgrace the vehicle at all. A real PRO/AM standards.
Awesome driving. The spyder looks great. Have you ever driven a 991.1 or .2 gt3? I want to upgrade from my cayman S and am considering a .2 gt3
Driven both. I'd say a couple/few years ago the .1 sounded nice with the 10 year engine warranty, but those are coming to an end soon. I would most definitely spend the extra on a .2 GT3. Amazing car, you won't be disappointed. Much faster than the 718 GT4/Spyder and dry sump so the engine should be good for a long time!
Great info! Thanks.
Merry Christmas
Is this a black spyder with matte ppf?
That's right, black underneath with clear satin PPF
@@TurninTrackOut Very cool, thanks for answering, was thinking of something very similar 👍
What front camber were you running on the ZL1-1LE to get only 7 sessions. Were you running the -2.7 just from rotating the struts, or were you maxing out at -3.5 with the camber adjustment bolts on the strut body? I ran -3.5 before and would also cord after 1 day or 6 sessions approximately. With -2.7 on the ZL1-1LE I can get about 13-14 sessions before cording.
I tried everything from 2.7 to 3.4 - always cording on the outside. It might partially be due to our tracks and also the way that I drive. I'd say the rear's would heat cycle out to where you were 3+ seconds slower per lap after 12 sessions regardless. I found with the 12C and the Spyder after a couple days you're still within about 2 seconds of your first session lap time.
@@TurninTrackOut Thanks. That''s very good info. Last season I was meticulous about rotating the wheels in the front to get max life out of them. My tracks in the Northeast are mostly RH corners so switching wheels from L to R works pretty good. This stuff is just too expensive. This is one of the reasons why I like the 570s. It's got supercar acceleration and it really doesn't beat up tires too badly. That car just needs a little bit more downforce though. I may add that car soon.
So true about rotating helps a lot. I think MSO makes some pretty good aero packages for not too much on the 570s. Completely agree it needs it. A bit tail happy on track on corner entry.
@@TurninTrackOut Thanks! Hey, one last question. I've also looked at the 12C for a track day car but I noticed that you got yours to overheat quite a few times. Was your car stock when it went into limp mode? I'm at the faster end of my HPDE events and I was wondering if heat would be an issue in Northeast temps with a 12C. For a 12 year old car those things are still very capable of some serious lap times.
@@Turbo329 Yeah my 12C was always stock just switched to steel brakes. I would say it will do okay for 90 degree or under track days. Will overheat in 20 min sessions if driven hard above 90 degree ambient days. I also ran into the brakes overheating after about 13 minutes regardless of the temperature outside. I think brake ducting would have been my next add-on. Just make sure to definitely buy from a dealership as a CPO and 100% get the aftermarket warranty. I think they can only do the aftermarket warranty for 10 years, but I'm not certain about that, just make sure to check. You'll definitely want it. The car is insanely capable, actually surprised me.
Goodyear Supercar 3r?
Yeah - used the same on all three cars.