Nice work bro 🧊💯 transferred over from residential/light commercial to low temp dept. at work we have quite afew walk in coolers/freezers as well as reach ins and open display coolers as well. Thus leading me to want to break the ice more on freezers etc. SUBSCRIBED 💪🏽👍🏽🛠
Last week, Chilis location in liverpool NY. I had both motors bad and blades were spinning g within the hub. I had 1 fan motor and 1 blade on my truck. It was 8pm and about 72°f ambient. I just removed the bad motors and blades. Cold zone condensor fan motors require a run cap mounted on them/side. Blades are case ROTATION. Meier supply in Syracuse hooked me up Monday morning
Hello would you still half to work on a system rain or shine or would not work on a system that day because it’s all electrical and rain and electricity don’t shine ?
I have a question couldn’t you add a capacitor to the fan and that would’ve solved the problem with motor fan abd the contactor was still functioning could you have tightened wire and left old contactor
If a Connections is discolored, it doesn't every time means it is a loose connection. It could be also an over-tighten Screw especially on Aluminum Wires (compressed Cross-Section equals heat). In the Data-Sheet of the Contactors are Tourqe Values for the Screws. And btw your videos are nice.
Nobody with a brain inside their head would ever use Aluminum wire for any commercial application. This was certainly most likely caused by a loose connection, hence the arc-damage that is clearly visible.
@@MFKR696 sorry to be a necro, but as I recently found this channel and have been watching the videos, I did feel a need to address your comment. You're more than likely right on nobody in their right mind would use aluminum wire for that kind of application. Thing is that if you watch other videos, you do see other AC techs not doing things properly whether it be not replacing the run cap with the correct size, not looking at the root cause/big picture, and even not following manufacturer recommendations. So I'm honestly glad Grumpy pointed that out. It might be done by an out of their mind person, but it's still part of the big picture. In this case, it most certainly was loose. However, I do appreciate Grumpy pointing that it's not true in all cases.
HVACR VIDEOS did you manage to balance the wobble out? Worried that the motor mount would break due to metal fatigue due to stress as it’s wobbling all the time.
You guys think with the Condenser Fan Motor going out and the restricted condenser it caused more Resistance increasing amps on one of the 3 phase legs Making the weak point melt?
Nah it was just a loose connection, a dirty condneser would cause higher amps but it wouldn't make a connection go bad, it would however heat up an already corroded or loose connection and speed up the process. Anyways thanks for watching!
its an auxillary relay that prevents the defrost heater contactor from pulling in while the compressor contactor is pulled in. I am going live on TH-cam this evening 1/7/19 at 5:00pm pacific standard time to discuss my most recent uploads, come on over and check it out th-cam.com/video/UXpVzsY0gzc/w-d-xo.html
I believe he has the Fieldpiece sman460. I keep the same ones in my truck. You might have to contact Fieldpiece directly if you want to get the casing by itself.
Tru tech tools may also sell the case straight out too.Up Date... Well I looked into finding your case for you. Fieldpiece retired the case in question. However you could try to call tru tech, and see if they could help guide you towards what you need. Their good people. I checked E-Bay,Amazon etc. Supply House... No Luck.. Maybe someone on site here may be of further help also. Good Luck to ya. I tried Brother !!
90_Rooster contact me at 404refrigeration@mail.com, I've got a decent old Fieldpiece nylon gauge case just like Chris's, if you pay the postage/shipping you can have it for free.
Personally I can't stand those crimp on connectors. Even if you are going to a steel mating surface they introduce resistance. I helped someone I knew with a set of steam tables at a restaurant and the electricians used a finely stranded wire to the connection from the main power input box to the steam stable controller and used the crimp connectors. One leg failed on multiple tables and they made the cable so short that you couldn't fix it without replacing the section of cable. Instead of using crimp connectors I got some 1/4 inch copper and cut short pieces and crimped that down on the cable to make a solid connection then drilled a hole and used that to attach to the temp controller. Never had another issue with them after that. It's a lot more work doing it that way but if you are running a lot of power through a connection it may be the difference between having an issue or not. Also have to be careful using stranded wire in some of the lug style connectors, some of them will cut through the stranded wire but be fine with a solid wire. On those you can also do the same trick of just crimping on a piece of copper tubing and then slipping that into the lug so you don't damage the strands, otherwise they are supposed to be soldered to make a solid piece to crank down on.
Today I found something similar, i had tighten a screw in a contactor with a burn wire but in a couple of days the wire was black again. I replaced the contactor, it seems the terminal was loosed no matter how tighten the screw was.
I'm curious, When he was up on the roof looking at the units, he looked at the one unit and said it was an R22 unit so that was not it. Is R22 never used for freezers?
It's not very common to see R22 used on low temp freezers it is possible but it's not very common I know that store so I just knew that the 22 unit was the walk in cooler and the 404 a unit was the walk in freezer
It's an auxiliary contact. The defrost contractors control voltage is ran thru it. So if the compressor contactor is pulled in the defrost won't engage and vise versa
Whoever repaired that unit previously should be kicked out of the industry. Thanks to videos like this, I now follow every single repairman that comes into this house and I watch everything they do with an eagle-eye. If they don't like it, tough. I'm the customer, and I'm gonna make damn sure I'm getting my money's worth. Sucks to live in a world where you can't trust anyone to do their goddamn job anymore. It's almost like some of these guys want to get fired. Last time I had a repairman in my house, I caught him taking pictures of my computer. You simply cannot make this shit up. I leave the guy for 30 seconds and he starts taking pictures of the inside of my house. Let's just say he left without his phone. Then his manager called, and I told him why I smashed the guy's phone. He no longer has a job now, either. Fuck with my castle and you'll get the horns straight up your ass. I don't care who you are. You could be the Prime fucking Minister and it would make no difference to me. That repairman was goddamn lucky that it's still illegal to hobble people lol. I'd give him a limp to remember me by. Rage issues and shitty repairmen are a bad combination in my book lol.
I appreciate your videos and helping me and others grow in HVAC along with teaching me to be more thorough
Great video great explanation great job man. Please don't sleep details
Well hell, we all have a screw or two loose in this line of work, right? LOL!! Good video and good finds.
Great video brother thanks for taking the time to share!
Thanks for watching!
Top notch.... good work!
You’re the best , thank you for sharing
Great video. Thanks for sharing knowledge.
Thank you so much for your videos.
No problem thanks for watching!
Dirty condenser ,loose connections =heat of CFMtr and reason it failed. Good job, CC/fan tighten all lugs.
That fan blade not moving freely can affect the system along with connections, checking everything prior to troubleshooting is the key.
Nice work bro 🧊💯 transferred over from residential/light commercial to low temp dept. at work we have quite afew walk in coolers/freezers as well as reach ins and open display coolers as well. Thus leading me to want to break the ice more on freezers etc. SUBSCRIBED 💪🏽👍🏽🛠
Last week, Chilis location in liverpool NY.
I had both motors bad and blades were spinning g within the hub.
I had 1 fan motor and 1 blade on my truck.
It was 8pm and about 72°f ambient.
I just removed the bad motors and blades.
Cold zone condensor fan motors require a run cap mounted on them/side.
Blades are case ROTATION.
Meier supply in Syracuse hooked me up Monday morning
Thanks all I can say great class!
Why were the evap fans running if the box is warm and the condenser was off? May have a bad three wire klixon
Nice job brotha!!👍🏼🤙🏼✌🏼
Excellent video!!!!
Thanks
Do you work on cold room walk ins cascade systems r404a and r-23? I’m working on one now and believe the txv is restricted.
No sorry I dont have any experience with cascade systems
Hello would you still half to work on a system rain or shine or would not work on a system that day because it’s all electrical and rain and electricity don’t shine ?
Yep we have to fix most systems rain and or shine
What was the burn mark on the bottom of the defrost from?
Looks like it was from an old defrost clock that went bad, this one was fine
I have a question couldn’t you add a capacitor to the fan and that would’ve solved the problem with motor fan abd the contactor was still functioning could you have tightened wire and left old contactor
I have one walk in freezer,ges is 404a 35 psi,temperature set point -5 but -5 cannot reach,waht i can do now pls?
Nice work!
Nice Video.
Thanks in million.
If a Connections is discolored, it doesn't every time means it is a loose connection. It could be also an over-tighten Screw especially on Aluminum Wires (compressed Cross-Section equals heat). In the Data-Sheet of the Contactors are Tourqe Values for the Screws. And btw your videos are nice.
i did not know that,thanks for that
Had know idea .. thanks
Nobody with a brain inside their head would ever use Aluminum wire for any commercial application. This was certainly most likely caused by a loose connection, hence the arc-damage that is clearly visible.
@@MFKR696 sorry to be a necro, but as I recently found this channel and have been watching the videos, I did feel a need to address your comment. You're more than likely right on nobody in their right mind would use aluminum wire for that kind of application. Thing is that if you watch other videos, you do see other AC techs not doing things properly whether it be not replacing the run cap with the correct size, not looking at the root cause/big picture, and even not following manufacturer recommendations. So I'm honestly glad Grumpy pointed that out. It might be done by an out of their mind person, but it's still part of the big picture. In this case, it most certainly was loose. However, I do appreciate Grumpy pointing that it's not true in all cases.
That right motor was wobbling. Or again optical illusion.
Yeah it was wobbling, the new blade was out of balance too..... frustrating!!!!
HVACR VIDEOS did you manage to balance the wobble out? Worried that the motor mount would break due to metal fatigue due to stress as it’s wobbling all the time.
Yeah I ended up replacing the blade and it solved the problems
You guys think with the Condenser Fan Motor going out and the restricted condenser it caused more Resistance increasing amps on one of the 3 phase legs Making the weak point melt?
Nah it was just a loose connection, a dirty condneser would cause higher amps but it wouldn't make a connection go bad, it would however heat up an already corroded or loose connection and speed up the process. Anyways thanks for watching!
hi chris
what is that on the side of the contactor thats connected to the other contactor
its an auxillary relay that prevents the defrost heater contactor from pulling in while the compressor contactor is pulled in. I am going live on TH-cam this evening 1/7/19 at 5:00pm pacific standard time to discuss my most recent uploads, come on over and check it out th-cam.com/video/UXpVzsY0gzc/w-d-xo.html
Hi boss what is Normal operation superheat on a refrigerator ?
A medium temperature txv should operate withing 8-12 degrees superheat depending on your application
Ok thanks you know on AC unit they have manufacturer set superheat what about a refrigerator are there manufacturer set superheat !!
Good video
What kind of gauges do u have? And can one find the gauge case on it's own?
I believe he has the Fieldpiece sman460. I keep the same ones in my truck. You might have to contact Fieldpiece directly if you want to get the casing by itself.
Tru tech tools may also sell the case straight out too.Up Date... Well I looked into finding your case for you. Fieldpiece retired the case in question. However you could try to call tru tech, and see if they could help guide you towards what you need. Their good people. I checked E-Bay,Amazon etc. Supply House... No Luck.. Maybe someone on site here may be of further help also. Good Luck to ya. I tried Brother !!
90_Rooster contact me at 404refrigeration@mail.com, I've got a decent old Fieldpiece nylon gauge case just like Chris's, if you pay the postage/shipping you can have it for free.
Brother please explain control wiring with eliwell digital thermostat please
Personally I can't stand those crimp on connectors. Even if you are going to a steel mating surface they introduce resistance. I helped someone I knew with a set of steam tables at a restaurant and the electricians used a finely stranded wire to the connection from the main power input box to the steam stable controller and used the crimp connectors. One leg failed on multiple tables and they made the cable so short that you couldn't fix it without replacing the section of cable. Instead of using crimp connectors I got some 1/4 inch copper and cut short pieces and crimped that down on the cable to make a solid connection then drilled a hole and used that to attach to the temp controller. Never had another issue with them after that. It's a lot more work doing it that way but if you are running a lot of power through a connection it may be the difference between having an issue or not.
Also have to be careful using stranded wire in some of the lug style connectors, some of them will cut through the stranded wire but be fine with a solid wire. On those you can also do the same trick of just crimping on a piece of copper tubing and then slipping that into the lug so you don't damage the strands, otherwise they are supposed to be soldered to make a solid piece to crank down on.
Today I found something similar, i had tighten a screw in a contactor with a burn wire but in a couple of days the wire was black again. I replaced the contactor, it seems the terminal was loosed no matter how tighten the screw was.
Perhaps was a bad wire crimp
Was the fan blade bent or damaged? Or did you change it as matter of good practice? Hey another good one!!
The blade looked in poor condition but I change them whenever I can because they are cheap and go bad often.
I'm curious, When he was up on the roof looking at the units, he looked at the one unit and said it was an R22 unit so that was not it. Is R22 never used for freezers?
It's not very common to see R22 used on low temp freezers it is possible but it's not very common I know that store so I just knew that the 22 unit was the walk in cooler and the 404 a unit was the walk in freezer
R22 is shitty for low temp
Cool
Beer can cold strategy with the ole sight glass is clear method eh
Thanks for watching bud How else would you do it? Did I not do something right? I'm always looking to improve
Last screws loosing, cool patron. Lazy lefty last guy? xD
👍👍👍
Only 2 reasons for electric circuit to melt something... shorted or loose connections.
Loose wires create fires
Yes they do!
EF grease = fire hazard
Also what's the thing on the left side of the contactor?
It's an auxiliary contact. The defrost contractors control voltage is ran thru it. So if the compressor contactor is pulled in the defrost won't engage and vise versa
Whoever repaired that unit previously should be kicked out of the industry. Thanks to videos like this, I now follow every single repairman that comes into this house and I watch everything they do with an eagle-eye. If they don't like it, tough. I'm the customer, and I'm gonna make damn sure I'm getting my money's worth. Sucks to live in a world where you can't trust anyone to do their goddamn job anymore. It's almost like some of these guys want to get fired. Last time I had a repairman in my house, I caught him taking pictures of my computer. You simply cannot make this shit up. I leave the guy for 30 seconds and he starts taking pictures of the inside of my house.
Let's just say he left without his phone. Then his manager called, and I told him why I smashed the guy's phone. He no longer has a job now, either. Fuck with my castle and you'll get the horns straight up your ass. I don't care who you are. You could be the Prime fucking Minister and it would make no difference to me. That repairman was goddamn lucky that it's still illegal to hobble people lol. I'd give him a limp to remember me by. Rage issues and shitty repairmen are a bad combination in my book lol.