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FCA 41TE Overhaul
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ส.ค. 2020
- This video covers the overhaul of the FCA 41TE transaxle used in many Chrysler, Dodge, and Jeep vehicles. It's a grandfather to the 62TE, 42RLE and even the 545RFE and 68RFE, which seem to be modeled after this transmission design. It's been around for over 30 years and it's still used in the Dodge Journey in 2020. In this video, I cover disassembly, inspection, and reassembly of the transaxle along with measurements and some description along the way. This video is intended to teach a student or a technician that's new to automatic transmissions the operation of this simple transmission. This is the first transmission that the students go through in the class, because it's easy, basic, and relatively quick to go through.
after watching this video I have concluded a few thoughts. this is the kind of instruction that people used to get way back in the 50s 40s and maybe coming into the 60s because it's so thorough so clear and so down-to-earth that I think this kind of actual instruction has been a lost art in the education market for a long time.
keep up the great work man!
Thanks! I appreciate your kind words!
Thanks for the instructional video. First time tearing into one of these. I installed a seal & gasket set + the underdrive & overdrive friction discs. The trans is actually an A604 out of a 93 LeBaron sedan with 57K miles so all the mechanicals were in excellent shape. The only aggravating thing the trans was doing was doing the bump stop (one bump only) thing causing the trans to go into limp home mode. I replaced the low/ reverse piston seals (the lip type) with the D-ring seals that came in the kit. The trans parts guy had some upgrade parts for the OD/UD & low reverse accumulators which I used. End result: removed one problem (the bump stop thing) but created 2 new problems. I suspect that the upgrades to the accumulators are the problem. Now I will have to drop the pan & valve body to remove them. Again thanks for the video, best one I could find.
Great video, I can tell you are a patient instructor.
I had a similar problem with beginners using a wrench instead of hand tighten.
Solved the issue by welding a top bar making it a "T" bar. That way there's nothing to put a wrench on.
Anyway, thanks for sharing your time and knowledge.
I love the way you teach . Amazing
Thanks .😇 + 🕯 💜❤
EXCELANTAE !!! Like algebra.. the average fool as myself will need to have multiple exposure even to begin understanding - LOL -"the simpliest thing in the world" -Bravo - great instruction - muucho thanks !!!
very useful video. thankl you for sharing! I have a 2005 Chrysler town and country with this transmission. this is super informative.
I have a 05 LX town and country with 447,000 miles. I changed the first one at 300,000 not because it stopped working but it was leaking badly.
Superb! You are specialist! 👌🏼✨
Well done,, Sir! Good job.
You rock Boyle!
This step by step breakdown is helpful! I have a rebuild manual I found online, but this is a great companion, especially for the detail you go into. I picked up a '95 Cirrus for cheap and it would go into limp mode during downshifts, but otherwise drove and up-shifted fine (cycling the key off/on would clear limp mode and no CEL came on). Finally pulled the transmission to see what was going on and found some VERY worn 2-4 clutch discs (all the way to the metal!) and some gouging on the OD clutch hub from the disc's... fingers? Whatever you call them. The one in the video has markings, but mine has deep grooves on one side of the recesses on the outside of the hub. I'm replacing that, some very heat marked steels, and using a Mopar overhaul kit.
Question though, I found some marking inside the input clutch retainer. I don't think it'll cause any issues reusing it, what do you think?
Where did you find your manual and what did it cost? Im probably about to have to pull a 41TE trans from a 2005 Chrysler Touring FWD 3.5 and do a rebuild.
I bought a master rebuild kit from chrysler so I hope everything I need is in the kit. I also bought a new torque convertor just in case there was contamination in the old one which is now a core for my core charge.
Great video.
Excellent video. Like your students, I was also perplexed by the manual's "remove 1 clutch plate". They could have added "to not scratch it when removing snap ring". I'm rebuilding my 2002 A604 AWD transmission for a second time and going in deeper. First time was only because I had to remove it to replace a cracked flexplate. Then I found the first clutch plates barely worn (1 mil max) so did just a rubber & gasket refresh. This time (10 years later), it was leaking bad at the front, perhaps because I found 3 pump bolts loose (swore I used thread-lock and torqued them to spec). I'm changing almost every wear item since 270K miles now. So far, I had trouble removing the output bearings, having to use my milling machine (carbide end mill) to cut off a cone race and the outer cup (since recessed w/ no slot to set a drift on it). Changing some bushings proved that no good deed goes unpunished as several turned out slightly too small for the mating shaft. I only found that after spending a day trying to stab the clutch pack back and taking things apart again, thinking some clutches were wrong or hanging up, but actually a new bushing was preventing engagement. I also bought the snap ring assortment and had trouble when I didn't notice the new wavy ring was too long so overlapped slightly (cut it). I suggest only changing the pump bushing unless you find others worn (none in mine). Also, good to buy a new star spring for the bottom of the clutch pack since others have found those broken. Surprisingly, none of the clutch disks or steels are worn even 1 mil after another 80K miles and all rubber seals look fresh, so probably no need to rebuild one before 400K miles unless experiencing problems. A document w/ many photos and much more detailed than the shop manual:
www.uscars.biz/uscars/extras-documents/ATRA_Chrysler_41TE_604_Rebuild_Procedures.pdf
Thanks! Hopefully your rebuild was successful. Sometimes I use a torch to clutch the bearing races off on anything that I cannot get a puller on.
@@siuautomotive
Thanks. I did try a propane torch while pulling on the cone race (after removing rollers and cage), but didn't help enough and the lip broke off, so nothing left to pull on, so had to cut it off. The outer bearing cone ("race") also had to be cut out, using the carbide mill on a hand drill. They don't have any cutouts in the case shoulder to use a punch from behind (need a special puller tool), The inner cone sticks up above the shoulder so was easy to tap out. Works fine after the rebuild, just clunks down when slowing maybe from 3 to 2. The ATRA manual gives a procedure to work that out, after maybe 80 cycles. Might still be air bubbles to work out of the pistons and accumulators. I haven't driven it enough yet. I was a little worried I had overtightened the output bearings, since felt slightly higher than 8 in-lb "turning torque" (gear alone) though I didn't have a low-enough torque wrench to measure. I didn't have the adjustable shims and felt close enough, so will just drive short distances at first.
" the simplest valve body in the world" there is goodness in simplicity - I am happy to be a town and country nut - have 6 of em - two for parts - two running on the road, two for back ups - looking forward to keeping my T&C's in good operating shape - Walter Chrysler would be very happy with the engineering of the 41TE ! Simple for you professor, but an engineering marvel for me !!! Question... can a faulty valve body cause shudder???
you are god damn real specialist dude
Excellent video, we need more instructors like you to motivate the youth of today. It reminded me of some of my trainers years and years ago. You will also be saving me thousands as I have two of these to do! For an overhaul kit who would you recommend?
I get my kits from wittrans.com. Call them, don’t order online off the website. The prices on the website are way higher than if you talk with a salesperson.
Best video I've watched as of yet - aaamazingly intricate piece of equipment! I have a whine in my 05 T&C that occures only over 45 mph - I think it is perhaps the diferential bearings - any suggestions?
I think you got me the input shaft must not been in all the way so I got to deal with my mess up ☺️ I must be a regular thank you 😉. Now I know why I lost reverse I jammed it in there I didn't do the last reverse clutches lost reverse after I destroyed the clutches I'm going back in to rebuild it again do it just like you. I did two transmissions got this one right on reverse on one and ruined 2-4 clutches on one burned em up was to tight clearly clearances.
Much appreciated video. Thank you. Just wish it included the final drive and transaxle. Mine is shifting fine but it seems to be moaning from the tranfer case. Like maybe a bearing is worn out. No real vibration, just moaning like a dry bearing? Or maybe even a worn drive gear. Sure would like to know more about that and where to get the repkacement parts
I need help please. I overhauled my 41TE of 1997 DGC (270K km). I replaced all plates, clutches, rings, clean/flush the solenoid body, torque converter, except to re-use the old solenoid pack. I tested this SP and the ohms is good within specs. I decided not to replace (just total flush) as I thought I can still replace this if the low shift bump will persist later (as this is an external part). The bump never go away after the overhaul but there's no code. After running some +300km. I decided to replace the SP pack with brand new Wagner. The van works well smoothly during road test but reverts to its old bumps today just after some 50 km. What else should I need to check/do to remove the bumps. I understand the bump will start to erase all the spline of the planetary gear as I found out in the overhaul. (I replaced this part too on the overhaul). Thank you for time in advance.
Thank you for this incredible informative and helpful video. I am currently rebuilding my 41TE and have gotten to the point in re-assembly of measuring the Clutch disc travel on the OD/Reverse clutch pack. The manual says that the clearance is 0.035 - 0.054 in. I have checked the clearance for the underdrive pack and each step until now and I am getting closer to 0.09 or 0.1. I put in a thicker snap ring as suggested (2.0 mm) and it is still getting close to 0.09. I just ordered the thickest snap ring it shows available in the Service Manual (2.3 mm) but am worried about this clearance issue for the OD/Reverse pack. Is there anything else you think I might have missed or should check? Many thanks
Have you ever seen a clearance issue caused by the OD/Reverse reaction plate or the OD/Reverse pressure plate? Do they come in different thicknesses or do only the snap rings, steels, and discs come in different thicknesses? Thanks again
1st I want to say thank you for this video as I might have to tear into my 08 sebring trans.
Question if I may, have a P0700, and P0755 code. I replaced the shit valve assy (also fluid n filter), cleared the code, but they came back. Trans will go in reverse, but only move forward in 2nd (while in D or L). Any idea where I should look next? I've rebuilt a Ford C6 so this one doesn't look too bad.
Thank you for any guidance you can offer.
LoL I put the trans together 1 and 2 works reverse quit and felt like it was binding in reverse and made some clunky noise in reverse any idea what I did wrong I think the 1st and reverse clutches were really tight on clearance I put the upgraded 2nd stage clutches in. Inside the input drum was a snap ring it was also chipped when I took out the ring a piece we're the snap ring goes in the shell was under drive I think and it chipped as I took the ring out good chunk on the last snap ring were it groves in.
Do you have a video on the Phase 1 4EAT Subaru transmission? I rebuilt mine a few years ago in my SVX and Legacy and had great success, but I still had a lack of understanding of the operations.
They have a high failure rate in SVX's, but last sometimes up to 3x as long in the Legacy Impreza and Forester counterparts. Many of us have attributed it to the poor programming while others believe it's excessive heat. Some have the notion it's a combination of the lazy program and weaker parts that were beefed up in their brethren. However, I've seen no difference in components other than the SVX used the 3.54:1 GR while others used a 3.91, 4.11 and the sought after 4.44 used for swaps. Is there something I'm missing?
Really great video, thank you! I have a question about the fluid. I bought a 1998 Town&Country with the wrong fluid in it (Dexron III). I need to replace the whole fluid to the Mopar ATF+4. Do you prefer a flush (at home, with the cooler lines, no additives) or a simply draining 2 or 3 times. Thank you for your help.
I would pull the cooler line and use a bucket. Start the engine and as it is filling the bucket I’d be pouring in the atf+4. You’ll go though 15 or so quarts before it’s flushed. If you plan on changing the filter, let it suck the pan dry and that way it won’t be as much of a mess when you drop the pan. Btw, lubeguard has a bottle that converts dexron to atf+4. If the fluid is good and not to old, you might consider that.
@@siuautomotive thank you very much!
How did you find out the wrong fluid was in it?
@@BertGraef previous owner told me
@@siuautomotive do I do it in P or N? Or D? should the engine run continuously or should I stop per quarts?
I've noticed a certain kind of buzzing noise these types of transmissions make as you shift either in reverse or in and out of first gear! I've even heard it in some rear wheel drive vehicles such as Dodge Ram, Jeep Grand Cherokee, etc.
Yes sir, that's the solenoid modulating fluid into and out of the clutches. Early 41TEs were so loud they had a insulating cover to muffle the sound a little bit. The 45RFE transmissions use a similar technology, so they're noisy as well.
I noticed that the shift shaft on my 06 PT Cruiser has a dimple on it and there is a shallow indent on the case, are these supposed to line up in a particular gear? Good video....
I don't think that's there for anything too important since there's not adjustment to any of that. It's probably for the factory to position the shifter in a position for assembly line installation. But I might be wrong. I does line up with a detent position. I'm not sure which one, maybe neutral?
Great video. I am trying to pull the Valve Body in my friends PT Cruiser that has an A604(41TE) and we are stuck trying to get the Valve Body to come down. We ensured that the main shaft is fully clockwise. One park sprag roller is out but the other wants to bind at the transfer gear. Any suggestions? Thanks.
I assume you have the linkage disconnected on top of the trans. You should be able to shift it to low range and drop it straight down. If you don’t twist the shaft the correct way it’ll get hung up, but make sure everything is disconnected up top.
@@siuautomotive Thanks. We did have everything disconnected up top. We actually removed the vent plug at the top of the shaft, verified we were fully clockwise and then put a block of wood on it and then tapped lightly. The valve body came right out. Thank you. We replaced the range sensor and re-installed everything and still no reverse gear. Thinking reverse clutch pack. 😩 Thanks again!!
Would you happen to know the part # for the Borg Warner High Energy Frictions? I can find standard BW, Alto Hi Energy and Raybestos Hi Energy, but not the BW Hi Energy. Any assistance or source would greatly appreciated.
Not sure if this will be answered or already has. I have built one using your instruction in a daily vehicle and its been fine. But i have another vehicle and have this in a racing application. Two questions… can you add clutch(es) to the OD “4th” gear? And second how do you mechanically increase line pressure to clamp especially the OD more under high torque load? Or can that only be done through tuning electronically? These are not the strongest. Thank you for any assistance and great video, thorough and meticulously done.
You cannot add pressure through tuning, because they have fixed pressures based on what gear you are in. You might be able to adjust how quick pressure can enter the oil circuit through tuning. In 3rd and 4th, pressure is lowered in the transmission down to about 85psi. If you look at the hydraulics video and find the passage where the 3-4 enters the pressure regulator and block that off, the trans will operate with the 145 of pressure from 1st and 2nd. I don’t know if there are any methods to increase clutch count. There’s not much room in there
@@siuautomotive thank you very much, that clears up the biggest questions I had.
I think that was explained in the first few minutes of video.
My transmission shift has movement side to side after I pulled it.could the pump bearing be bad.in my Chrysler 97 front wheel drive transmission .thanks for your vedio .
They'll move a lot side to side. The front of the input shaft is supported by the torque converter cover.
I have a 2008 doge avenger 2.4 trans code p0755 2-4 or 2c solenoid circuit what can i do to fix this problem.
What does it mean if a seal blows out when pressure is applied! Is it clogged
I got a clutch replacement kit BW 34038 for For my 41te . For the drive clutch drum there is 4 black high energy and 6 of the regular pinkish friction . My 2005 only pinkish friction in revers OD,UD. .I HEAR HIGH ENERGY BLACKS ARE for OD.BLOW UP DIAGRAM SHOW 3 FRICTION 2 METAL. SO I'm confused
I don't know if you can help. I am in the process of installing a 41te into a 2000 town and country. Father in laws van. Found a new old stock trans. Problem is it is for awd. From what I can see out put shaft gears need to be changed over from old tranny to the new one. New awd tranny has a double spline on passenger side. And has an extra long cv shaft that passes through transfer case, then into tranny. Plus old tranny has 4 inch housing to support cv shaft. If this makes any sense.
I’m pretty sure you cannot bolt the extension housing from the 2wd case to the awd case. If I were you, I’d just rebuild the original unit with the parts from the donor transmission.
What would cause a 41te to have delayed engagement only when its below 90 degrees outside? Above 90 its fine.
Hi! Thanks for video.
Can you recommend some replacement of original oil Mopar ATF+4 for 41TE?
I have no way to buy it.
Maybe, Valvoline ATF+4 or Ravenol ATF+4?
As long as its atf+4, its fine. Its a type of oil
ATF+4 is the standard fluid all the transmission except for the CVT'S.
I have this transmission in a 2008 PT and it has developed a whine, not really bad but noticeable. There are no codes or shifting problems but I wanted to sell the car and this will certainly drop the price. What would be the most likely cause of this whine? Pump or torque converter and what causes the whine and what should I look for? Does it in gear and out, not power steering pump or clogged filter. I serviced it at 60K and now again at 109K. The filter came off with the pan and I found the original filter O-ring in the pan so it may have been pulling unfiltered fluid for a time. :( This video is fantastic and I could certainly manage this rebuild for a small part of a shop rebuild including the one special sleeve tool needed. I hope this thread is still active.
If the noise is there in drive at a stop, you know it's not the gearset. If it's there in park/neutral at a stop and it's not any different, it's not likely the torque converter, because everything is spinning about the same speed. That leaves the oil pump or a regulator valve that's buzzing. Does it change between reverse and drive while at a stop? The pressure is higher in reverse, so that will indicate that it's either the pump or the p-reg valve.
@@siuautomotive The sound is there in neutral, reverse park and drive and doesn't really vary any other than with engine speed. I had the whine before replacing the PS pump but I am going to pull the power steering belt off and make sure the sound is still present and I didn't get a bad reman PS pump. It is no different as I turn the steering wheel so that would just be a sanity check. It is likely the trans pump then. Other videos show replacing the " clogged" filter from no service fixed their whine but that is not my experience. Since it ran without the filter for an unknown time, is there any screen in the pump itself or the valve body in the suction path that could be restricting fluid causing the whine or would that in itself cause the pump to wear prematurely? There was very little metal dust on the magnet at 60K and again at 109K and no real signs of self destruction in the pan. I wouldn't think the solenoid pack would cause this but it has a bunch of screens in it but still no operational issues. Thank you for replying and your advise. I have been terrified of automatic transmissions till this video.
Finally in to the transmission. There is some slight wear visible on the pump housing surfaces between the chambers for in and out so I hope that is enough to allow some cavitation or leaking internally causing the noise. I did find an unexpected broken tapered snap ring for the 2/4, low reverse reaction plate removed at 17:39 in the video. It was in 6 pieces but all were still in the groove and not floating around but there is some slight damage or small impressions in the plate where the broken edges were but I think the plate is still good as long as I make sure nothing is sticking up above the normal ring land. There is one more molded piston you did not remove under the low reverse clutch pack. Low reverse piston?? Any reason you didn't remove that after pulling out the planetary set?
Dirty filter.
Where is the transmission oil pressure sensor ??
I have a 2005 Caravan, fairly sure it has this transmission.... and something just broke on it; something major. I'm not exactly sure what it is. If I let it creep forward in Drive, it will seem like it's driving normal and will do a normal "creep" when you let off of the brakes. But as soon as I push the gas, it sounds like a sledge hammer swinging around and hitting a bowling ball.. It's very violent and hammers hard. It's very similar to how a drive shaft sounds when a U-joint breaks and the shaft is swinging around and slamming into everything under your truck. It has about that same cadence to it. But you absolutely can't drive it in forward anymore than that; any amount of throttle causes this violent action-- But it will still coast? I was almost think it's the differential or spider gears or pin--- or something......... But the freaky thing is, it still drives in reverse? Without any of the violent action. I drove it about 8 blocks in reverse to get it home, and I even got kinda hard on the gas once and it spun the wheel in some gravel a bit... But seems to drive normal in reverse?... I was thinking that it could possibly be a broken CV shaft, but then it would free spin and not drive right? --- so I'm kinda scratching my head as to what it could be....... The engine runs fine, and honestly the transmission seems to run fine even going forward (as far as the clutches and engaging as it should ect)-- except when I give it any throttle at all, and then it has that violent, binding, crunching, slamming and hammering noise. You can tell that there's a moment of free movement and then it slams something-- so it's not a constantly binding thing; and again- it drives in reverse?? Just judging by the speed of the hammers, I really think it's the diff or a CV. But if you have any idea about what this could be or what commonly breaks on these, or anything that rings a bell-- I'm all ears. Thanks for the reply
Hello where can I get the lip seal guide? Thanks.
My 2010 caravan started slipping after a fluid change and filter swap. It only slips in 1-2 when van is cold. Is this a fluid issue ( I used castrol atf4 ) or is transmission failing. I even tried adding Lucas Slip stop. Van has almost 200k and had some metal shaving on magnet in pan. Any advise??
In this situation I would suggest a transmission quick relearn at the dealer or with someone with a capable scan tool.The sudden change in fluid viscosity does require a trans quick relearn.Not sure if this will fix,but I do know the viscosity change will require a relearn with a scan tool.
Thank you for your reply. I will look into the relearn first. Do you know of any ways to do the relearn? I have found some comments of ways to try at home but not certain I’d they work for the 2010 caravan or not
P0935 is driving me nuts..pulled valve body.. changed valve body.. shift solenoid pack... new fluid.. ..even pcm. Still have the line pressure sensor code.. throws my car into limp and causes it to over heat.. use to can clear the code n keep going.. now its permanently been like this. I feel like its something im missing.. i thought the line pressure sensor was on the valve body but there is NO SENSOR on this valve body but range switch.. thought it was in the trans shift pack but still have the same issue... n trans is overheating.. anyone please.. give me steps on what to try. Nd pics or manuals if you have them.. tryna figure out the issue. Help
What tools, do you need to rebuild the 41TE?
My car has a 40tes trans.I noticed there is a bunch of them like 40 te....40tes...41te...and more and I really would like to know the differences.I know some are 6 speed and some are 4 speed so maybe this makes a difference.It seems like a very good trans with proper care.
Only the 62TE is a six-speed (there is an extra 2-speed “compounder” gearset where the transfer shaft is on four-speed units).
can a newer TCU be used in a 1st gen. 41TE?
Добрый день, подскажите пожалуйста, АКПП 41 TE, симптомы такие что когда включаю D, машина очень тяжело трогается с места, как будто её кто то держит, так же и на R, а когда переключаю на N , машину руками не возможно сдвинуть с места, но если заглушить машину то на N можно толкать.
do you know the part number for that guide/protector sleeve at 50 min. into the vid
www.toolsource.com/crankshaft-c-1321_139_144_951/seal-installer-automatic-transaxle-front-wheel-drive-p-113887.html
Any tips for limited slip for the 41te?
Sorry, I don't know of any limited slip for this transaxle.
1:19:30 now thats a skill
Also, would the 41te in a 2020 journey be a direct swap into a 03 caravan or is it different? (I know the final drive gears are different)
Those would be different. The newer 41TEs have a line pressure solenoid and a pressure transducer, so the valve body is different. The newer units also have a "pancake" type converter, which is different. There are probably other differences as well.
Hi, what are the 5 or 6 bolts/screws between the pan and the solenoid pack are? I saw that the were backed out so I tightened them and know I’m thinking I shouldn’t have. I think the screws go into the outside of the valve body. Thanks.
I believe you are referring to the pressure taps. Those allow you to hook a pressure gauge and measure pressure to the clutches. They are tapered thread, so they won't look like they're all the way installed.
@@siuautomotive so was it ok to screw them all the way in?
so is the torque converter not present?
No torque converter in this video. Just the trans overhaul. I do have a video on torque converter operation in the play list.
@@siuautomotive thanks for the info
How. Many gear..?!
How do you get the manual and worksheet?
If you go to automotivetextbiok.com, then find automatic transmissions curriculum, and you’ll see everything in a chart. Just click on the boxes and they will take you where you want to go
@@siuautomotive Thanks
How much you charge to do input one I can drive to u
I’m 26 and first rebuild but Chryslers are shitty so cost just as much to rebuild as does take a chance on one out junkyard
not a complete rebuild he did not show the reverse/ low piston rebuild
My friend, where is the defect in this transmission.. why is it so notorious.. where is the common problem.. where is the manufacturing defect of Chrysler in this transmission.. and how to treat it and fix it or avoid it
The later units are pretty robust. I’d say high mileage units, you’d want to focus on the valve body and check the solenoid switch valve line up. This video goes through some common issues: th-cam.com/video/zSdYAHxYVXQ/w-d-xo.html
Watch those shims
Your Amazon mechanic 🧰
All this knowledge and you don't have an electrical impact !
Lol, I've got one, but I don't want my students using an impact on my transmissions. I need to have those threads last! So, for that reason, I didn't want to be a hypocrite. Thanks for the compliment!