Knife Sharpening - Shapton Kuromaku 1500 Grit
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ค. 2024
- Knife used
Benchmade Mini Crooked River
Stone used
Whetstone Sharpening Stone Shapton Ceramic Kuromaku #1500
Dlt strop with white compound
What's not to like? Hard as any other Shapton stone. Cheaper than the Shapton Pro line. Works just like you would expect a 1500 grit to work. Not as coarse as the 1k, and not as fine as the 2k. Even the color is nice. A blue purple tint.
#waterstones #knifesharpening #shaptonpro
Your sharpening technique is excellent, some of the best I have seen on TH-cam. Your bevel is flat and consistent even on the front radius of the blade.
Thank you for the kind words 🙏
Man, love fresh new stones. Like looking at candy.
LOL true, loving my Shapton 1000
Man I love that finish right there!!!!! Wow been liking coarser finish
Shockingly, I like it too :)
Lately I've been going with the coarser edge too and enjoying it.
That's cool.
🙏
I don’t why, but it feels good to use 1K, 1.5K, and 2K together. The 1000 is so abrasive that it’s good enough for fixing small damage on pocket knives and kitchen knives.
Depending on what I want to cut, I either finish with a 1500 or 2000. 1500 for a toothy edge for meat or 2000 for detail vegetable work. I limit myself to low grits even with pocket knives so I can master my technique.
I always add a tiny microbevel with a Spyderco UF triangle on my kitchen knives just cuz. For extra sharpness on pocket knives I strop with white Bark River compound.
thanks for the comment and checking out the vid. cheers!
I wanted the 1500 but was 20 euros more than my 1000 ,it's amazing.
Cuts like my King 300 😳😳😳
it's a good stone, for sure........ it's hard to compare it to the shapton 1k, because the 1k is nowhere near 1k and thats why it cuts so well. People have compared the shapton 1k to somewhere around 600 grit naniwa and other like stones. I dont know why the shapton 1k is not a 1k..... I suppose it's made that way so that it can be an "all in one" type stone. They kind of market it as the "if you can only get 1 stone, get the 1k, so it's made to a lower grit so it will cut well and people don't complain that it's hard to sharpen with. I'd imagine the 1500 was made to fill the void of being a shapton stone that is actually in the 1000-1500 grit range for real, since the 1k is more like a 600-800. Also if you notice the dif shapton kuromaku stones, theres a 100ish grit, a 220, a 320, and then it jumps to the 1000.......because the 1000 is not really a 1000. Then theres the 1500, 2000, 3000, 5000, 8000, etc etc
Bold claim. How exactly do you know it's not 1000 grit? I'd think you'd need a microscope and some way to measure the grit pattern to know for sure. Is there any evidence you can provide? I find it dubious that a highly regarded Japanese company like Shapton would be involved in false advertising.
@@robertwhitworth8352here is the proof of scratch pattern under microscope (comparing shapton 1000 grit to other 1000 grit stones)
th-cam.com/video/7phkBKET0xI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=yeyCVCFQTAcSMeC1
Interesting! A lot of people have said it's less than 1000 and when your last or Shapton's lineup it makes sense that they recognize it.
You are an excellent sharpener. I'm getting better all the time, I've got a few different stones I've been playing around with. I'm trying to figure out a good medium-fine stone that's finer than 1k but not 6k. Think I'm going with the shapton 2k. Great videos, I think I've watched them all and they've helped me a lot.
Rock on! Thanks for the kind words. Glad to hear you are improving your own skills. It just takes practice and time. Anyone can do it 🤘
The Shapton 2k is a solid choice. Works well on most steels, except for the really high carbide stuff. Even that can be done, just not the ideal stone. The edge is coming off still has some aggression, and if stropped, the bevel starts to get that bright polish.
@@Jef you're welcome. I just ordered a variety of stones, a shapton 1500, a Naniwa Super Stone 400 and 2k in the s2 thickness, a King deluxe 1k, and a king 6k super finish stone, and I've got a Naniwa Gouken Korouto 1k on the way that I ordered a couple weeks ago. I know what the kings are but I hope I made good decisions on the others, I think I did. As long as they give some feedback and are somewhat hard I'll be happy.
Turned out pretty damn good 😁
Thanks 👊
Cool video.. I just pulled the trigger on that stone and the 8000 shapton, and 220,600 grit dmt diamond stones and 3 micron diamond paste.
Sounds like a very solid set up. With those you should be in full force, to reprofile, polish, or do whatever you need to a knife, to achieve what you want!
@@Jef I was just reading up on my old Norton 4000 and didn’t like what I read lol. So I just ordered a shapton 4000 glass. I’m set for life, I hope lol.
@@craigtaylor9345 lol just depends on how often you use them. they all wear of course, even the diamonds. Do not be surprised that they start out crazy coarse, and fast, and then, break in, becoming slower. I know some have confused that break in, as the diamond plates no longer working properly. It is just a natural progression, that comes after a dozen, or so, uses. You can speed that break in up, by lapping your water stones with them.
I have an old atoma 140 plate, that is approx 5 yrs old. It has been through hell, but still works. Maybe not as fast as it used to, but that can be a good thing, when you don't want to remove too much material. I actually used it in my recent video, sharpening the Microtech Socom Elite
Hi Jef, Can we make our stone cleaning on sandpaper A4 sheet ? how many grid sandpaper would you suggest for cleaning 10.000 grid stone?
You can, but I don't recommend it. I think sand paper glazes the stone. Loose Sic powder is the way to go, in my opinion. I would use 120/220 to flatten it, then 400 to knock the coarse texture down. If it still feels coarse after that, I would lap using a cleaning stone, or naguara.
How do you know what angle you're constantly at or are you just guessing when doing knife strokes?
I don’t really know until afterwards when i can test it on a laser goniometer. Usually though, my standard hand angle is between 18-21 degrees
I have a question on my new knife. I’ve just ordered a Shapton 1000 for my new knife as I used a diamond steel on it and it just took chips out of my knife.(the steel of my knife is white steel#1 or shirogami.) will this be of any help?
The 1k is an excellent all around stone for that type of steel. Many would advise going even finer. However, it isn’t necessary, if you don’t want. The 1500 would be a decent substitute, but if you already have the 1k, you are not missing anything; so don’t fret. The 1500 is only a fraction finer, and most, probably, wouldn’t be able to notice the difference
I think you would appreciate atoma diamond plate for that stone flattening its superfast
Ive got one and use it occasionally. I prefer sic on glass but for a quick flattening, atoma is very good 👍
Hi Jeff was looking for your opinion I was looking at getting a set of sharpening stones I was going to get the Naniwa Lobster series 220 the Naniwa S2 800 grit and 3000 Grit do you think that would be a good starting point? And a dual lapping stone.
I actually discourage people from purchasing anything from Naniwa. After my Naniwa Pro stones started cracking, and they refused to speak with me about it, I quit their products. If that is the way you wanna go, knife sharpening norway is a big fan of them. He may be a better person to consult with. I’ll end up telling you ditch naniwa and purchase Shapton Kuromaku stones 😁
@@Jef thank you so much for that info I live in a dry climate and they would probably most definitely start cracking. What dealer would you suggest?
@@markmuhle7773 As Old regular Baptist Radio suggested, sharpening supplies is a nice spot. They will give you a refund or exchange, if you are not satisfied, even if the product was used. You can't beat that! Chef Knives to go and of course, Amazon. Amazon seems to be the only place you can pick up the Kuromaku series, currently.
@@Jef thanks both of you that was great info and feed back. You all have a great memorial day weekend!
I was looking at buying a set of these or the shapton glass stone witch ones do u feel are better? Do u think the glass stones are worth the extar money they cost compared to these stones?
th-cam.com/video/fcprUHO4Zgs/w-d-xo.html
Hi Jef, I was looking to buy the shapton Kuromaku set 1000 2000 5000 for japanese kitchen knifes. Do you think that is a good solution? thank you
Depends on the finish you are aiming for. The shapton stones will polish. Many Japanese knives have that hazy kasumi finish. You would need a natural Japanese stone, or possibly something from the Suehiro line up, to produce that
@@Jef i like more when the bevel is polish, i will go with these ones. Thank you!
Yup. Then these are an excellent . choice
For such a nice guy, your luck when purchasing new items isn't very good. This strop, the Smock, the broken Gritomatic stones.... It just doesn't seem right.😂 Thanks for another great video.👍
Rofl I know right? If something is gonna have issues, I'll be the guy to own it. Actually the Gritomatic stone was mislabeled. They changed the website thanks to my discovery. The 2k stone is not available. It is actually sold as the 1500. I already owned that stone, so sent it back. Konstatine gave me a full refund, so it all works out.
I have a question hopefully you will respond.
I've bought a couple Shapton stones; 2K 5K 8K 12K and also an Atoma Diamond Plate 1200 grit because otherwise i'd leave marks in my finishing stones when lapping.
But here is my question, would you recommend me to buy another diamond plate that is rougher, like is a 400 and a 1200 good to have or would i need to go lower in grit for the rougher whet stones?
And also at which whet stone grit would you stop using the 1200 diamond plate, maybe stop using the 1200 plate at a 5K whet stone and then go lower in grit?
Atoma sells 140, 400, 600, 1200 diamond plates and like i just said i've already ordered the 1200 one, would you recommend a second plate, if so which one.
Thanks in advance.
I prefer to use loose sic grit on glass, to flatten and condition my stones. When i do use a diamond plate, be it convenience or cleanliness, i just use an old atoma 140 grit. Even on my 5k. If the surface doesn’t feel or look right, a quick once over with a natural nagara, smooths it out.
If you just want a coarser plate for faster flattening, the atoma 140 is an excellent choice. Then if the texture is too rough, go back over it with the 1200, a cleaning stone, or a nagara. It’s really all about personal preference and what YOU want. Hope that helps
@@Jef Thanks for the information so far!
Maybe it helps if i explain what i'm actually sharpening, i'm doing straight razors. Do you think i'd ever need a whet stone rougher than 2K to set a new edge?
And if i ever get a 1K or 1.5K whet stone would a 400 diamond plate be a good choice to have next to the 1200 because i've read that people are already using cheap 220 grit flattening stones for the rougher whet stones so i think 140 might be overkill for me. And one up from 140 is the 400 plate..
P.S Sorry for my bad English lol. So in short should i get that 400 to go with my 1200 plate to cover all the lapping for these whet stones? Or would you still say get the 140.
Thanks for helping me.
@@BerserkeR_031
th-cam.com/video/wzk-RFDQqsc/w-d-xo.html
I'd say a 320 Shapton, and a 1k, are good to have. The 320 for severely damaged edges, or blades that need serious work. Trust me, there are new razors floating around, that can need that sort of stone. The 1k, is an all around versatile stone. Even if you don't use it for razors, you may find you like the edge on kitchen knives. So Yes, I would say get at the least a 1k, and I would push for even the 320.
For diamond plates, I still say the 140 atoma is the way to go. Anything else is a waste of time and energy. If you feel the texture on your whetstone is too rough after using the atoma, just go over it with a cleaning stone or a nagara. Others may have differing opinions. Just remember, it boils down to personal preference, and what YOU want.
@@Jef I totally agree. For me even the atoma 140 can be slower than I like, not that there are any better options that wouldn't mess up the surface, and require me to spend more time conditioning it back.
I've got some 36, and 60 grit sic powder to use on my coarse stones. I've tried those on my finer stones, and it leaves a super rough surface. That being said. I have never really noticed that problem with the atoma 140, except maybe the kitayama 8k can use a little nagura action after the atoma.
I use chinese diamond stones , work amazing.
Much better than DMT
Thanks for the video. How the hell do you keep such a consistent angle!
th-cam.com/video/XgOXvtJDm5E/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4ktSVFA7kc5ptCfp
I learned alot from this video
So what is your overall impression of the stone in the video that you like. In comparison to your other Shapton stones how did the 1.5k fare?
Over all, if you are after a one stone does it all, this one could fit the bill. It is fast for the grit rating, but can still leave a farily fine edge. I pretty much explained in the video how it was compared to the others. It falls right in line like it should, between the 1k and 2k. Not as coarse as the 1k, and not as fine the 2k.
@@Jef ok thank you
I used to jump from 1k to 5k and bought a 2k to bridge the gap. If I could do it all over again I would’ve bought 500,1500, and 5k. But at this point I’m so deep in stones I just keep getting more lol. Jef where did you get the glass??
Ps the 500 I’m referring to is the glass stone.
Lol I know the feeling! I got so many stones it's hard to choose what I wanna video. I try to rotate thru em.
The glass I find on the side of the road. Old entertainment centers, coffee tables, even doors. When I see one, I stop and check it out. If it is worht the effort, I will take it home, and cut it down. Bought a cheap glass cutter from Lowe's a few yrs back, and as you can tell by how raggedy the edges are, I still haven't perfected the technique ;)
I feel that. I just bought the king hyper 1k, even though I already have the chosera 800, shapton 1k, king 1.2k, hard Arkansas, fine India, venev 400, naniwa green brick of joy, and a tanba aoto. Not to mention all my coarse, and fine stones.
@@_BLANK_BLANK people told me the venev 400 corresponds to a 1200, is it true ?
@@dimmacommunication I believe it's supposed to be around 700. At least that's what I remember the conversion chart saying.
Would you consider doing a tutorial? I know there are plenty online, but they are very inconsistent. Also did you learn free hand just by trial and error?
1 hr step by step process : th-cam.com/video/dDXT8zOn5FQ/w-d-xo.html
shortened process: th-cam.com/video/eCa7kbzuvAc/w-d-xo.html
holding consistency: th-cam.com/video/yc0mjAiVFtU/w-d-xo.html
@@Jef Thanks so much!
@@kalamata480 hope it helps!
Have you tried sharpening supplies own brand line of stones yet? They look and sound interesting at a decent price too.
Yes. I have a video of them. They are soft and extremely friable. They are pretty much just like the Arkansas water stones they sell. Awful stones imo.
@@Jef oh okay thx you I must of not seen that video in your liat
it was awhile ago. i did a giveaway and sent em down the road.
Are you putting pressure on the pull or the push or both?
Both. However, I do seem to subconsciously apply a bit more on the forward stroke (edge leading).
nice video, one question...the leather should be thin? mine is like half centimeter.....thank you
No it doesn’t have to be. I like thin leather but its personal preference. Juat dont let the edge sink down far and dull itself
@@Jef excellent, you prefer the rouph side or the fine ?
I always prefer the rough side. It helps remove micro burrs, but at the cost of some apex rounding. Don’t be afraid of that. Embrace it. Convex edges are more durable than a true V. Maybe not as keen, but the toughness that is gained makes it worthwhile, imo. Just dont over extend or dull the edge.
@@Jef thanks a lot man
What are you thoughts on this stone vs the Shapton pro 2k stone? I'm looking for a 2 stone setup and was curious if you thought a 320 and 2k combo would be good or a 320 and 1.5k combo be better? Vs your thoughts on a 1k and 5k combo. I'm in the process of switching from a fine Indian oil stone to water stones. And currently sharpen stainless steel like aus8 and Aus10 steel. But will be trying to sharpen Caron steel too soon like aogami super or even semi stainless like hap40 steel. Thanks for the video very helpful
Man this is such a hard question. This is one of those odd ball stones that truly falls in between the 1k and 2k. It is all going to boil down to personal preference. The 1k to 5k jump is absolutely doable. I used a 320, 1k, 5k trio, for quite a long time. It is capable of handling most knives, you put against it. Since you already have an India stone, then a 1k - 5k set up would be a perfect compliment. However, if you so chose, the 1500 would fit the 1k's position nicely.
The only steels, that I think would pose a problem, would be the high carbide stuff. S90v, 10v, and then those exotics like Rex and Maxamet. Hap40 should respond well, and just about any Japanese steel, Shapton are perfect for.
@@Jef thank you the Indian stone feels like glass now and doesmt seem like it's wanting to do anything but skate across the blade of my knife. I was asking because some say the 1k cuts like a 800 and the 2k is nice in between stone. But that 1. 5k seem very interesting
1500 to 5k would be a nice combo, no doubt. The 1k is a pretty coarse stone, for it's grit rating.
The India stone, since it doesn't release abrasive, requires conditioning. If you are unfamiliar with that, I have a video or two showing it on some Black Arkansas stones. Basically, using a sheet of glass, and some loose silicon carbide grit, you can retexture the surface. For my India stone, I sprinkle some 46 grit on glass, and scrub it till it is flat. Then I wipe it clean, and lay out a fresh coating of sic powder. I then do about 20 circles, and rotate the stone for an additional 20. That leaves the coarse side with a very aggressive nature. Unfortunately, it does wear down. So you have to recondition it. Esp if you use it often, or if you use some abrasion resistant steels.
The fine side, I usually use 46 grit to flatten, then 120, 500. The 500 grit seems to be, for me, a nice stopping point, for most stones. Including the India Fine.
You can purchase Sic powder on amazon as well as ebay. Just search for silicon carbide powder, or rock tumbling grit.
Couldn't I just get a 140 diamond plate and use that instead. Also tring to get away from the oil stone
Do you have any experience with the naniwa Aotoshi 2k green brick stone? And if so what are your thoughts about performance on getting a knife sharp?
If you had to pick Shapton 1,000 or shapton 1500?
1000. It's just a hair faster in speed, and I still think a 2k after either stone, is a nice compliment. This one I would recommend more, for those who are looking for a one stone solution, to aid them in keeping their knives sharp. It is fine enough to leave a nice finish, but coarse enough to get work done.
@@Jef awesome thank you
You said they come with a " skin " ,but honestly it worked from the get go .
Then I lapped it just to be the " good student " 😂🙈
Yea that “skin” is weird. I havent seen it on every Shapton pro stone. If it isn’t on your great. Get to sharpening 😁
@@Jef loved my 1000 from 1st time I used it , amazing.
Wich ones do you have ?
Shapton pro? All of em except the 30k.
120, 320, 1k, 1.5k, 2k, 5k, 8k
@@Jef Opiniond about them ?
How's the 320 ? I have the 1k and 12k
@@Jef After the 12k any stonr is useless , just use a strop 😀
I want to sharpen my kitchen knives and edc, but there's so much stuff I apparently need to buy. Every time I watch something or read and article, there's another tool or requirement I have to add to the list. It's getting way too expensive for me.
Nah they are just options. All you need is a coarse, medium, and fine stone. After that, a strop of some sort. The choice of stone is up to you. I have made a video on the ones i prefer and recommend.
stones I recommend:
th-cam.com/video/fcprUHO4Zgs/w-d-xo.html
Could a nagura stone do that as well if I don’t have that powder?
a nagura will help maintain a high spot, or clean the stone. It won't truly flatten one, however. they are just too small. If you do not have the powder, sand paper on a flat surface works. Just plain sand, on a smooth concrete floor can work; (like a car garage). You can also use the back side of a ceramic tile. Often they have ridges that can abrade the stone and keep it flat.
If all else fails, if you have 3 stones, you can rub all three together, until each one is flat. If you only use 2, they will shape themselves to each other. For some reason, 3 is the magic number. Keep in mind, the coarser of the bunch, is going to wear the others faster than itself. I don't like this method, but it works in a pinch.
@@Jef how about a diamond plate?
Oh of course. I thought you were trying to keep things on the cheaper side. Diamond will absolutely work. The reason I use sic powder is bc i can leave the surface texture any way i want. I usually go coarse so the stone has an aggressive feel. Diamonds will do that when new but as they break in they don’t really condition the surface. They just flatten it.
Stone Maintenance - Flattening and Conditioning Sharpening Stones
th-cam.com/video/NLG2N7duwYc/w-d-xo.html
Sharpening Stone Maintenance - Flattenting and Conditioning
th-cam.com/video/cPsAzb2MBDo/w-d-xo.html
Sharpening Stone Maintenance - Flattenting and Conditioning
th-cam.com/video/jgIUQ4DYNSw/w-d-xo.html
Hello, I have the #320 version of your stone and am happy with the results going straight to black compound. However, for light touch ups, it is too much. I am torn between getting the #1500 & #2000. Which would you recommend?
They are so close it just depends on personal preference. The 1500 is a tad faster and coarser in the edge, where the 2k polishes a tad more. Personally, i went 10yrs without the 1500. Never missed it. For professional use, keeping nearby for quick touch ups, the 1500 might be a better option.
@@JefThanks for the info. I think that helps my decision. I mostly just do my EDC, hunting, and kitchen knives. Nothing professional, so I don't care too much about mirror polishing.
can we jump from 1000 grid to 12000 grid?
You can, but it won't refine the edge like going through a tighter progression. The 12k won't polish the bevel as well. It will still be a toothy edge, with a bit of luster.
Was ist der Unterschied zwischen1k 1,5 und dem 2000er Shapton. WIe weit liegen die auseinender? Gibt es einen Unterschied bei den drei verschiedenen Körnung,da sie ja sehr aneinander liegen.
They are all pretty close, in speed, and scratch pattern. The 1k is obviously a bit faster, and more aggressive, but we are talking the difference of maybe 30 strokes difference. I wish i could give you micron sizes but i just don’t have that information. Is one better than the other? If you only wanted to buy 1 stone, to bridge between mid grit and fine, then the 1500 is a good choice.
@@Jef Danke für die Antwort. Ich habe nun von Shapton den 2k,5k und 8k. Möchte mir noch den 320 kaufen,damit das Set Komplett ist. Wenn die Steine so nahe zusammen sind lohnt sich der Kauf von 1000 und 1500 nicht. Dann Springe ich von 320 direkt auf den 2000. Denke das sollte gehen.
320 to 2k is a big jump. I always use 320-1k-5k+. If you can afford more, i would recommend 320-1k-2k-5k-8k+. Each one really sets you up for the next grit. The 1500 is an oddball, for those that would like to eliminate 2 stones for one.
@@Jef Vielen dank,dann weis ich nun bescheid. Werde den 1000 kaufen dann ist das set perfekt.
Yes i would say go for it 👍
if youre going to send it back why would you use the product if its not what you ordered? first the stone then the strop, sounds like you might be the problem but nice sharpening technique
I made this video years ago. What did i send back or mention?
What is the reason for wanting thinner leather on your strop?
The thin leather is just a personal preference. Thicker leather has a tendency of rounding the apex, if not careful. That isn't the reason I like it, but an added bonus, to the thinner stuff.
Jef Jewell ok, thanks for clearing that up.
Just a thought... If you ever come across this issue again you could always try running an electric sander over it a few times until you reach your desired thickness.
@@andrewmcintyre8636 you know I have actually done that a few times, on worn leather strops. To reinvigorate them. I found the leather had a tendency of trapping some sic grit from the sand paper, that would scratch my edges, after wards. It eventually wore itself away, but I've been leery of doing that since. Have you had this issue? If so, how did you get the sandpaper grit out of the leather, once you were done?
@@Jef something I just thought of would be a wire brush or if you have a bench grinder, use a wire wheel. Should clean the leather really well, while fluffing up the fibres which should theoretically hold onto compound better.
what's grit number for slaughter?
Which grit? Think there may have been a translation issue. Coarse grinding 120 or 320. Then medium 1-1.5k and finished on 5k
@@Jef ok thanks for ur answer
You should avoid X strokes. It doesn't give an uniform sharpness along the edge because the "center" of the blade spends more time on the stone than the extremities
That’s ridiculous. Only a tiny portion of the edge is in contact with the stones at any time. This can be seen by the metal swarf line that is left on the stone after making a pass. Usually less then the size of the bevel. Not to mention the stroke i make is heel to tip. The rolling pressure, along with the tiny surface area actually touching the stone, prevents any portion getting more abrasion than another
@@Jef Yeah right. You will have to show me on a picture how physically you can get only a "tiny" portion in contact on the straight part of an edge on a large stone
@@Jef You spend some time on the curved portion because you specially inclinate for it, but at the base of the knife, something close to 0 second at each stroke. The straight portion right before the curved portion stays on the stone from the begining until you inclinate to sharpen the curved portion to the tip. But it seems that we don't have the same physical statements
I’m not sure what your are describing. When i start a stroke, i apply pressure from heel to tip. I even angle the knife at the heel, if it is difficult to get the stone in that area. It is the only spot making contact. As i go thru the full sweep of my stroke, the pressure basically remains in the middle of the stone, as the knife is pulled along that arc. It isn’t exact science, but that is the gist. Unless i am applying force on the straight, intentionally, only a small area is in contact with the stone at one time. If you need video proof I’d be happy to oblige, although i have plenty of videos showing this. Just watch the swarf trail left on the stone as i make a stroke.
will these work on super steels?
On some. When dealing with stuff like s90v, 10v, and the like, there are better options. Check into the gritomatic silicone carbide stones.
@@Jef i have the 1000 gritomatic but i want more. seems they max at 1200. what else should i use to get to the next level. have you used tapes? or should i stop with micron paste?
They have a 2500 grit sic stone from gritomatic but it maybe out of stock currently. Suehiro g8 is an 8k sic stone that is pretty fantastic. It’s my personal choice after the gritomatic stones. Also check into the diamond resin stones. Edge pro, venev, and although i don’t like recommending them, naniwa.
@@Jef have you tried the cerax line?
Yes. Again, sic or diamond, will work better on the really high carbide super steels. If u are after something else, just search my youtube channel. I got tons of videos on quite a lot of stones.
it's not ok to use it if you want to send it back.
what do you mean? i did not use the gritomatic stone. i used the shapton
Yes, these are exactly the same as Shapton Pro. These are the ones CKTG sells when you look up Shapton Pro Stones on their website. I emailed CKTG specifically asking them this exact question. Their response was, “these are the Kuromaku series stones and they’re exactly the same as the Shapton Pro.” 👍👊
cktg is selling these now? They used to sell the Ha no Kuromaku stones. Which was the justification for the price. If they are selling these now, then they have jacked the prices up to make a small profit :-\
Jef Jewell they list Shapton Pro and I asked if these were the traditional Shapton Pro Stones or the Kuromaku’s and they said they were the samething and these were the Kuromaku’s. Their website doesn’t say anything at all about Kuromaku, but has them listed as Shapton Pro’s. If you search Shapton Pro or Kuromaku on their website it takes you to the same item #. $45 for the 1k
Jef Jewell I just looked and now in the description for the Shapton Pro it’s says Kuromaku.
As long as you don't mention you can get them cheaper on Amazon vs their site your golden. I know first from their forum. They thought I was asking questions just so I could go on amazon and take the rug underneath mark for business which was a sour taste and rude. Instead of getting info about stones in general and mentioned other vendors besides theirs to justify the price difference between different brands.