Shapton are probably the best bang for the buck. But honestly I’m a chosera guy. I watched a video that compared the scratch pattern of the chosera 400 and the Shapton pro 1k and they were almost identical which leads me to believe that that are really close in grit rating. Tbh that’s a big difference for me. I still want that Shapton 220 though.
It seems like the shapton pros are lower than their rating and the choseras are higher. I think the 800 chosera can even surpass some 1K stones for finish. Cuts like it's higher grit too. I think the glass series is almost a better comparison for quality though because the shapton pros don't have ultimate grit size quality control I've heard.
I liked the video, the way you sharpened, and the stone. I’m just wondering how it would do on some other kinds of steel. I’m curious about D2, 3V, and others just to see how it handles harder steels that are used in knives other than kitchen. I’ll bet it’s great for a lot of your survival type knives that use primarily 1095 and similar carbon steel that don’t have a high carbon blades. And for s35vn and that category is also probably great. I also wonder how it stacks up against other ceramic stones.
It can handle harder steels for sure. 63HRc SG2 is totally fine but starts to slow down there as a point of comparison. It'll be great for any kitchen knife and any pocket knife with Vanadium less than ~4% and HRc below 63 with relative ease.
Not sure if you’ve covered it but have you tried any low grit Shapton glass? Just bought a 500 and it’s my first time venturing outside of King water stones. Been sharpening for like 6 years and figured it’s time to try something new lol. I’m hoping the glass 500 is going to be my go to edge setter and occasional thinner until I buy something around 200-300.
Definitely time for an upgrade! The 8K is the only glass stone I've tried but I have been looking at the 500. I think it'll be great to set an edge or even for a single stone progression, low grit finish it would work well. Hard to say for sure though! It may be a bit weak for serious thinning but if you do it as you go maybe it'll be a decent fit for that. I'd love to hear your thoughts in a comment when you get it!
@@EngineersPerspective701 just got it today! I don’t have any of my other stones or strop with me right now. Just the 500 stone and stropping with my jeans got my 940 to hair whittling sharp. I’m even able to push+pull cut a paper towel which is way above my expectations considering the 940s geometry and only using a 500 grit. Between the stone, my jeans, and some toilet paper I was actually able to get a mirror polish on it hahaha. Also sharpened up my grandma’s extremely dull Victorinox and it was decent enough with thinning. When I sharpen a knife that’s starting to get thick I make a 1mm cutting edge and then right above it I do another 1mm with a more aggressive angle. I’ll occasionally go back and do a micro bevel. This stone handled that with ease. Not sure if it’s because it’s my first stone that isn’t a cheap King, but I’m incredibly impressed. I’m going to be bringing this thing everywhere with me. Genuinely shocked that this one 500 grit and denim is getting me about 90% of the performance I get from 400>1000>4000>6000 and strop. I’m really interested to see how it pairs with my higher grit stones. Opposite of buyers remorse for me
@@GrimpaGrim I think part of your success are your great fundamentals from honing your skill all that time. Now that you don’t have to fight the stone and instead working with you!
Just off of Amazon, link below! Honestly Dawn dish soap has the same sprayer now with a bigger reservoir and it’s cheaper with the soap included! Get one of those and dump out or use the soap then put water in it. Empty Spray Bottle -5.4oz/160ml... www.amazon.com/dp/B07W5S412S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Hi I wouldnt have a clue . I'm in the United Kingdom . Trying to sharpen some of my daughters kitchen knives but she said the were quite cheap so not to worry about them . I notice quite alot if material coming off , grey slurry so I'm presuming steel is soft . I seem to have more success with a cheap old oil stone . I so want this stone to work . I have had it a month and having to re flatten it constantly because of dishing .
The knives are probably your issue. Some of the most difficult steels to get a sharp edge on are the very cheap steels. I usually have better luck with a belt sharpener and a strop for the super cheap knives. I use the Work Sharp Ken Onion Blade Grinder
I'm curious, from your "engineer's perspective", what in the world makes you think deburring with slurry has any benefit to the cutting edge, and what is the logic reasoning behind this action? Cuz you see, when you show up online with fancy "name" like yours, probably people expect to gain so called "pro opinions and facts about things". And all you actually do by stroping the edge on the stone with slurry, is actually damaging the apex!
Looks like it was to get you all riled up. You’re definitely correct that rolling abrasion on a hard substrate can damage the apex with edge trailing strokes. However 1) I do find the rolling abrasion to help a little with deburring as it doesn’t seem to generate new burr very readily with light pressure 2) this stone doesn’t release much slurry 3) use light pressure 4) Who cares? This isn’t some master class on sharpening. It’s messing around with the stone just getting to know it. Not like I was going for an award winning edge.
I just got the 320. Used it once, liked it so much I immediately ordered the 1000.
Solid buys! I really like them both!
Shapton are probably the best bang for the buck. But honestly I’m a chosera guy. I watched a video that compared the scratch pattern of the chosera 400 and the Shapton pro 1k and they were almost identical which leads me to believe that that are really close in grit rating. Tbh that’s a big difference for me. I still want that Shapton 220 though.
It seems like the shapton pros are lower than their rating and the choseras are higher. I think the 800 chosera can even surpass some 1K stones for finish. Cuts like it's higher grit too.
I think the glass series is almost a better comparison for quality though because the shapton pros don't have ultimate grit size quality control I've heard.
You want the pro 220 to feel what -380 grit feels like. I think it's filled with super duper vitrified black hole particles.
I liked the video, the way you sharpened, and the stone. I’m just wondering how it would do on some other kinds of steel. I’m curious about D2, 3V, and others just to see how it handles harder steels that are used in knives other than kitchen. I’ll bet it’s great for a lot of your survival type knives that use primarily 1095 and similar carbon steel that don’t have a high carbon blades. And for s35vn and that category is also probably great.
I also wonder how it stacks up against other ceramic stones.
It can handle harder steels for sure. 63HRc SG2 is totally fine but starts to slow down there as a point of comparison.
It'll be great for any kitchen knife and any pocket knife with Vanadium less than ~4% and HRc below 63 with relative ease.
🙌🏼
😎
2k stone I find is harder and leaves a nice finish with decent polish but still toothy.
How’s the cutting speed? My guess is the 2K is probably closer to what other brands call a 1K too.
@@EngineersPerspective701 pretty fast for 2k
@@EngineersPerspective701 It's closer to a 1.5K. Since I cut a lot of raw meat I prefer 2K over the 1K but both are good.
Not sure if you’ve covered it but have you tried any low grit Shapton glass? Just bought a 500 and it’s my first time venturing outside of King water stones. Been sharpening for like 6 years and figured it’s time to try something new lol. I’m hoping the glass 500 is going to be my go to edge setter and occasional thinner until I buy something around 200-300.
Definitely time for an upgrade! The 8K is the only glass stone I've tried but I have been looking at the 500. I think it'll be great to set an edge or even for a single stone progression, low grit finish it would work well. Hard to say for sure though!
It may be a bit weak for serious thinning but if you do it as you go maybe it'll be a decent fit for that.
I'd love to hear your thoughts in a comment when you get it!
@@EngineersPerspective701 just got it today! I don’t have any of my other stones or strop with me right now. Just the 500 stone and stropping with my jeans got my 940 to hair whittling sharp. I’m even able to push+pull cut a paper towel which is way above my expectations considering the 940s geometry and only using a 500 grit. Between the stone, my jeans, and some toilet paper I was actually able to get a mirror polish on it hahaha.
Also sharpened up my grandma’s extremely dull Victorinox and it was decent enough with thinning. When I sharpen a knife that’s starting to get thick I make a 1mm cutting edge and then right above it I do another 1mm with a more aggressive angle. I’ll occasionally go back and do a micro bevel. This stone handled that with ease.
Not sure if it’s because it’s my first stone that isn’t a cheap King, but I’m incredibly impressed. I’m going to be bringing this thing everywhere with me. Genuinely shocked that this one 500 grit and denim is getting me about 90% of the performance I get from 400>1000>4000>6000 and strop. I’m really interested to see how it pairs with my higher grit stones. Opposite of buyers remorse for me
@@GrimpaGrim I think part of your success are your great fundamentals from honing your skill all that time. Now that you don’t have to fight the stone and instead working with you!
Do you remember where you got your spray bottle? Thanks!
Just off of Amazon, link below! Honestly Dawn dish soap has the same sprayer now with a bigger reservoir and it’s cheaper with the soap included! Get one of those and dump out or use the soap then put water in it.
Empty Spray Bottle -5.4oz/160ml... www.amazon.com/dp/B07W5S412S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
@@EngineersPerspective701 👍!
For the life of me I just cant seem to get anything sharp with this stone . Already dishing after trying to sharpen a few knives .
It's not an incredibly fast stone but I have had a ton of luck with it. What steel are you sharpening?
Hi I wouldnt have a clue . I'm in the United Kingdom . Trying to sharpen some of my daughters kitchen knives but she said the were quite cheap so not to worry about them . I notice quite alot if material coming off , grey slurry so I'm presuming steel is soft . I seem to have more success with a cheap old oil stone . I so want this stone to work . I have had it a month and having to re flatten it constantly because of dishing .
The knives are probably your issue. Some of the most difficult steels to get a sharp edge on are the very cheap steels. I usually have better luck with a belt sharpener and a strop for the super cheap knives. I use the Work Sharp Ken Onion Blade Grinder
Thanks . I have a Katto japanese knife , not used much , given as a gift, so perhaps when it's due to be sharpened I may notice a difference .
I'm curious, from your "engineer's perspective", what in the world makes you think deburring with slurry has any benefit to the cutting edge, and what is the logic reasoning behind this action?
Cuz you see, when you show up online with fancy "name" like yours, probably people expect to gain so called "pro opinions and facts about things".
And all you actually do by stroping the edge on the stone with slurry, is actually damaging the apex!
You keep using quotation marks, I dont think you know what they mean
Looks like it was to get you all riled up.
You’re definitely correct that rolling abrasion on a hard substrate can damage the apex with edge trailing strokes. However 1) I do find the rolling abrasion to help a little with deburring as it doesn’t seem to generate new burr very readily with light pressure 2) this stone doesn’t release much slurry 3) use light pressure 4) Who cares? This isn’t some master class on sharpening. It’s messing around with the stone just getting to know it. Not like I was going for an award winning edge.