I'm sorry to hear that your not fully satisfied with your new mower.... It's sad that they scimpted on some of the features.... Knowing you, you'll have it perfected in no time, and hopefully they'll send someone for a real world repair, to redesign and service upgrade for their product line. We know your busy, and thank you for including us in your life....
Great machine we got a HW365 new holland 16ft disc front and 36ft windrower front. Good to see they got rid of those annoying uni's on the rollers. Those buttons on the handle should be for controlling the screen to show ie your fuel, speed,cut acres total area so on... Have the key on them both for 5seconds brings up header configuration screen 10seconds dealer setup or something like that only go in the first 1 mostly to clear acres. Hope that helps Keep up the great vids
my NH is a older,smaller model,''8040'',but the cab is close to same except i do not have leather and my climate control is a touch tone. i've put over 7,200 acres through it and has worked flawless during the time. i know it's still the sickle style head yet,but in the steep Missouri River hills in South Dakota these heads work fine,they may be slower,but they do a cleaner job then a disc head,it's kind of like comparing a lawn mower with a weed eater..
Weight box was there on previous machines, it was just welded shut with about 1500 pounds of scrap pieces. Put that much weight in the box of the Speedrower (which it should come from the factory with) and it improves the handling tremendously. Still kinda sketchy at 23 - 24 mph though. And as far as the orange button on the handle, it is the engage button for the auto-guidance option they added this year.
Wes, I'd be making a phone call or a visit with your dealer.... should NOT be leaking already. As for those plates... yea, they sorta "f'd" up on that big time. Make yourself some brackets that you can bolt into the frame of the cutter. We used sickle cutters in the rocky area's, a bit easier to fix if something broke or bent. Cheers.
have the bottom of the hood on the header coated with linex it will stop the rocks denting the hood plus it will deaden the noise and make the panels a lot stiffer and not bed as easy
I have to agree with you on the shield. It should have been bolted down, to prevent anything from busting through, and hitting the windshield. That's alot of glass, and you would think New Holland would have noticed it and fixed it to begin with.
The 2 concerns that have my attention is the weight in the rear and the missing bolts. Seems like the weights should come standard and the missing bolts is a engineering screw up. (Can you imagine the layers of engineering checks that this must have missed?)
Macdon windrowers went to a design that rotates the seat around to the back of the cab and the machines goes backwards down the road at almost 30 mph. All self propelled wind rowers cant handle that great when going that fast so thats one thing good about the macdons.
Hey Wez, just a thought, steering on this mower i am assuming is simply braking the front wheels and the rear wheels castor around. If NH were to take those rear wheel shock absorbers and hook them up to an accumulator/ pump then they could also act as steering. there could be a "road-mode" where the steering comes only from the rear and the front wheels are locked which would improve the handling (such as with a combine etc.) and then a "field mode" which means you can spin on the spot and the rear wheels become un-steered and the accumulator just acts as a shock absorber. It could be hooked up to one of those unused buttons on the control stick. I was wondering whether, with some more weight to keep the rear wheels on the ground going down the road, you thought this would work? The road mode could also automatically come on if you get over 15 mph and you forget to switch it on.
I understand why these mowers dont steer from the rear tires like the combines do, but it would be nice if you could change that by the flip of a switch for road travel.
New holland should give you prototype equipment from time to time to work out what works in the field. beneficial to both of you. Just one idiots opinion.
I say they all have their issues, not every piece of equipment is going to be perfect and that is why he is doing the review. john deere isn't perfect, massey isn't, ect ect. fun stuff.
So whats the story on upgrading all the equipment? Everything hitting age at same time? Looks like at this point your gonna have all new hay equipment across the board.
i was offered so much for my old equipment i couldn't say no and i got 3 new things for way less on the pre build order that it just made good sense to trade it all in for new...
I suspect that part of your handling issue, is due to low contact pressure/small contact patch on the "front" drive (steer) tires. This will cause a unsatisfactory traction condition that promotes "floating" and swerving going down the road.... Perhaps a softer compound, wider paddle tire would help.... I don't know how much side flex that tire has, but that may be a contribution to the problem. The floating issue going down the road is probably the main reason that almost all cars and trucks on the road are front steer.... Perhaps the handling claim was made with narrow turf tires... (more contact, more pressuer/softer compound...)
***** I don't know why you feel that way? What did I say that doesn't have a basis in fact? No I don't own one, but what does that have to do with trying to analyze a problem based on the video evidence provided so kindly by Wes? The ribs that I was trying to refer to are rather narrow, and I suspect it is paired with a harder compound to promote life. The rear wheels spin on a castor (like a shopping cart), the steering is accomplished via altering the speed of the left and right front wheels, which don't pivot. If you have ever driven a forklift in slick conditions, you would note that the thing floats and swerves and the rear wheels (which are steered on a forklift) have to do a lot more work to keep you going relatively straight. Also if the side flex of a tire is excessive enough, it will make the vehicle looser in handling. By referring to turf tires, just think of the tires on the back of your standard lawn tractor, more like a car in terms of rubber on the road, and a softer compound to boot.... By using a narrower tire, you reduce the ground patch, but also raise the psi of the ground contact. He has wide tires (less psi-more floating in mud) with narrow ribs (better penetration into loose surface-mud/gravel/whatever), but the narrow ribs require a harder compound to reduce tire wear from road use (too much slipping/localized pressure). If he put on tires with thicker ribs and a softer compound, he would increase road contact, and reduce tire deformation from just driving. Turf tires can be thought of as slicks-they don't grab for crap in loose/muddy conditions, and they have a lot of contact surface for dry/solid conditions. And while I can't remember what hand full of cars (trucks/whatever) had rear steer, the fact is that nearly every automotive on the road is front steer. It just makes it simpler and easier to correct deviations if the correcting wheels are first. Also having the steering wheels up front reduces uncontrolled whip around, if you want a example, find a empty parking lot (or field) and try to drive around at speed in reverse. Or try driving a Hi-lo at high speed. Now on top of that difficulty is the fact that the actual steering is accomplished by varying the speed of the drive wheels. You can get a feel for that if you watch tractor pulling, where most steer with their brakes, because the front end is airborne... But if you have access to nearly any farm tractor I can think of after say 1940, you would discover that the brake pedal (for those so equipped), is actually 2 pedals, usually locked together by a bar between the foot pads. When the bar is disengaged, you can brake one drive wheel or the other, and depending on the tires-My grandmother's ford 5000 series tractor could slide it's steer tires and turn without turning the steering wheel. This very same concept is what has made tracked vehicles-be they tractors, dozers, construction equipment, or military tanks turn. So when you look at this piece of equipment, just picture a tank with a pair of wheels, and the spinning wheels from a shopping cart/buggy on the back. Yes there are shocks now on this model, but all they do is prevent the shopping cart/buggy wheels from flapping back and forth (the way they do when you run really fast in the store). I wish you a good day sir, I have to head off to bed to get ready for a long shift tonight...
It's not the tires... it's the weight issue that technically isn't there on the back end. Lighter material is used to save costs on construction of said equipment. Wes already pointed out one huge issue, too much air pressure in the rears and the dealer did NOT add enough weight in the weight box. It's common sense really.
***** I am sorry that you don't wish to converse respectfully. If you are a farmer, I thank you for producing. However, whether you are capable of receiving the knowledge I am trying to share or not, does not discount the accuracy of my point. This vehicle drives and steers from the same 2 tires, and does so not by turning them side to side, but by varying the speed at which they roll. The rear wheels have no input on the handling of the machine, you could replace them with a ball with no effect on handling.... Different tires have different capabilities in different environments. The ones Wes chose are likely poor performers on the road, and good in mud, but that was his choice.... I hope you don't try racing, I think that you might find it a little too challenging, as one of the most important factors is vehicle setup, which includes tire choice, as well as bound, rebound, spring rate, castor, camber, toe, weight balance, etc...., all of which must be tuned specifically to the track conditions, vehicle and driver. If you don't wish to believe me, ask any racing team (not your buddy, but a professional racing team).
TsmnnDvl5 The weights and air pressure, were to fix the problem with the back of the mower lifting off the ground every time he slowed down, or stopped. If you watch the video of the delivery, you can see the difference proportionally between the old mower dropping it's header, and the new mower picking up it's header+ the lifting issue as he is working the field. Essentially, the header is heavy enough it nearly moves the center of balance of the mower over the front drive wheels. Adding weights to the back, moved the center of balance toward the back of the mower, and farther from the front drive wheels. And lowering the tire pressure allows the tire to act more as a spring, and absorb more of the impacts/irregularities in the terrain being covered. My reply was in hopes of giving Wes aid in figuring out why the mower wasn't "handling" as well as hoped while going down the road. And while keeping the rear wheels on the ground helps, they don't actually control how the thing goes down the road. They have NO steering input, you could replace them with a big ball in a cup as far as that is concerned. If it were a combine harvestor, the rear wheels would steer, but not on this mower (or the last one). This means that the main drive wheels (front in this case), control the steering, not by turning side to side, but rolling faster or slower. Adding more weight, will slow the speed at which it starts to turn, or stops turning, but it will not make it turn-unless it is to pull the back end down the hill (or crown of the road). Hence-why the mower is "crabbing" (going sideways) down the road (crown of the road-same thing that makes the rain run to the side of the road...). So I have to state again, this is one of those times where tire choice has a big impact on how it handles-in this case, the critical tires to worry about, are the front drive/steer tires, the others don't really matter....
+onelonleyfarmer Wes, I seem to be hitting a roadblock here, would you be so kind as to back me up, or if you disagree..... I don't really have a face on youtube, but you are respected. I suspect that you-if you have had time to see my posting and the responses- would understand and likely agree that it is at least a good possibility of what is happening...
Good review, to me that is shoddy work to send out a machine as expensive as that one is with the hood not secured properly and that radiator screen not clearing itself is similarly pathetic.
rocks are the least of the things you want coming up to the glass I've had a blade on my nh 617 side mower say hi to me as it passed into my cab. that is a o shit kind of day
Wez Nice mower Good review They need to make engineers have a number of hours in the field of what they are engining to get the feel of it. NH engineers to get smart and fix idiot ideas they had. But that goes for all engineers all jobs, engineers are paper pushers people that build and run these machines are the real engineers when It comes down to it.
How fast are you mowing with it? Does it cut faster than the old one? We taxpayers want to know if it was worth our expense. Lol. Seriously tho, how does it compare?
ok the taxpayer comments have to stop i receive no money from the taxpayer to farm!!!!! i did at one point but it was such a small amount i stopped going into that office. it just wasn't worth the aggravation to get $1800 a year.
What's this cutter cost? I'll bet it's as much as a house. They should fix what you want them to for free! I know though - like you - I want to make my own mods that make sense. The company most likely won't do that. It's hard to get flotation tires not to drift / it's even more difficult when the rear wheels swivel. Without those dampers it would be a real PITA.
What else you do besides baling and soy beans? How many acres you got own farmable land? Have you ever thought buying and New Holland or Ford tractor? Greetings from Finland! Here we have 250 acres of wheat, rye, sugarbeet and potatoes.
I guess the dealer wouldn't buy the old tires and bracket back???? Your never going to be totally satisfied with everything on a new piece of equipment???? That front windows is very expensive!!!!
oilerman9406 Well those MacDon windrowers would have to handle a whole lot better on the road than the New Holland design especially under braking because you haven't got all the weight of the mower pulling you over under hard braking, I also like their new Ultra Glide Cab suspension system four-corner “custom tuned” independent suspension system features suspension stabilization to prevent cab roll and chop!
I'm sorry to hear that your not fully satisfied with your new mower....
It's sad that they scimpted on some of the features....
Knowing you, you'll have it perfected in no time, and hopefully they'll send someone for a real world repair, to redesign and service upgrade for their product line.
We know your busy, and thank you for including us in your life....
Great machine we got a HW365 new holland 16ft disc front and 36ft windrower front. Good to see they got rid of those annoying uni's on the rollers. Those buttons on the handle should be for controlling the screen to show ie your fuel, speed,cut acres total area so on... Have the key on them both for 5seconds brings up header configuration screen 10seconds dealer setup or something like that only go in the first 1 mostly to clear acres. Hope that helps
Keep up the great vids
Very impressive machine, hope you get the "bugs" worked out of it and it serves you well. Great review from a professional user !
my NH is a older,smaller model,''8040'',but the cab is close to same except i do not have leather and my climate control is a touch tone. i've put over 7,200 acres through it and has worked flawless during the time. i know it's still the sickle style head yet,but in the steep Missouri River hills in South Dakota these heads work fine,they may be slower,but they do a cleaner job then a disc head,it's kind of like comparing a lawn mower with a weed eater..
Great job reviewing the mower keep up the good work.
Glad to have you back be safe
Weight box was there on previous machines, it was just welded shut with about 1500 pounds of scrap pieces. Put that much weight in the box of the Speedrower (which it should come from the factory with) and it improves the handling tremendously. Still kinda sketchy at 23 - 24 mph though. And as far as the orange button on the handle, it is the engage button for the auto-guidance option they added this year.
Try it with a 36 ft header on there down the road. A lot of those controls are for your windrow header. Looks good!
3.000 acres! That's a lotta hay! Awesome review!
Good review, that top panel could have a lip at the back it fits under and no bolts at the back
Wes, I'd be making a phone call or a visit with your dealer.... should NOT be leaking already. As for those plates... yea, they sorta "f'd" up on that big time. Make yourself some brackets that you can bolt into the frame of the cutter. We used sickle cutters in the rocky area's, a bit easier to fix if something broke or bent. Cheers.
For the rock guard, so rocks dont dent the housing. Truck bed line is cheap and very tough and i think would be easier than pissing around with WHMD.
have the bottom of the hood on the header coated with linex it will stop the rocks denting the hood plus it will deaden the noise and make the panels a lot stiffer and not bed as easy
Nice mower! I like the machinegun option :)
I have to agree with you on the shield. It should have been bolted down, to prevent anything from busting through, and hitting the windshield. That's alot of glass, and you would think New Holland would have noticed it and fixed it to begin with.
The 2 concerns that have my attention is the weight in the rear and the missing bolts. Seems like the weights should come standard and the missing bolts is a engineering screw up. (Can you imagine the layers of engineering checks that this must have missed?)
The bottom step should be on a latchable hinge type of deal tp prevent what you think may happen.
great vid man! thanks!
those tires on the back are the same ones that new holland uses on there 185 manure spreaders.
Macdon windrowers went to a design that rotates the seat around to the back of the cab and the machines goes backwards down the road at almost 30 mph. All self propelled wind rowers cant handle that great when going that fast so thats one thing good about the macdons.
Agreed the have reliable cummins in it an can cut alot
Whoops hold both buttons then turn key on. 5seconds first screen 10 seconds next 1. Works like it on our hw365 new holland.
great video as always onelonely
i see where your coming from hope someone from new Holland see this and sorts things out for you after all you spent good money on that mower
Put one of those spray on truck bed liners underneath the shield.
Hey Wez, just a thought, steering on this mower i am assuming is simply braking the front wheels and the rear wheels castor around. If NH were to take those rear wheel shock absorbers and hook them up to an accumulator/ pump then they could also act as steering. there could be a "road-mode" where the steering comes only from the rear and the front wheels are locked which would improve the handling (such as with a combine etc.) and then a "field mode" which means you can spin on the spot and the rear wheels become un-steered and the accumulator just acts as a shock absorber. It could be hooked up to one of those unused buttons on the control stick. I was wondering whether, with some more weight to keep the rear wheels on the ground going down the road, you thought this would work? The road mode could also automatically come on if you get over 15 mph and you forget to switch it on.
Yea but not putting the extra hood bolts saved New Holland .50 cents. Causes you 500.00 worth of damage though. But they don't care..
I understand why these mowers dont steer from the rear tires like the combines do, but it would be nice if you could change that by the flip of a switch for road travel.
To help the weight issue in the rear, could you load the rear tires? How do you think that would work out?
could you paint the bottom of the hood with bed liner to soften the blow of the rocks?
Wes is it possible to put hood hold down pins where they failed to put bolts?
Hey Wes, just a question did you get your new bailer yet or am I just blind and can't see it on your up load video section.
what kind of farm do u have, beef ,grain pig ,dairy ,sheep what kind
New holland should give you prototype equipment from time to time to work out what works in the field. beneficial to both of you. Just one idiots opinion.
I am surprised if the back end was light, you didnt load those oversize tires?
I was wondering how many acres you can cut in an hour we have a 1431 and I cut 70 acres in about 8 hours
Couldn't you spray the inside of that deck with like Rhino Liner ??
I say they all have their issues, not every piece of equipment is going to be perfect and that is why he is doing the review. john deere isn't perfect, massey isn't, ect ect. fun stuff.
How many acres are you looking to mow per year with this mower?
Super review Wes. We mow 3500 acres with a 10ft JD trail mower. What width is the header.
this is 16ft
Couldn't you cut the grass higher so you don't hit so many rocks??
With the price of equipment these days. There shouldn't be any problems for a long time with the exception of normal wear and tear.
the orange button is not an oiler button it's a automatic steerer
what was price?
make sure to take photos of your changes and improvements and send them to New Holland's engineering department so maybe they finally get a clue.
So whats the story on upgrading all the equipment? Everything hitting age at same time? Looks like at this point your gonna have all new hay equipment across the board.
i was offered so much for my old equipment i couldn't say no and i got 3 new things for way less on the pre build order that it just made good sense to trade it all in for new...
get some roll on bed liner "cheap like 50.00" it will stop rust, flex of the plates, and dents..
I suspect that part of your handling issue, is due to low contact pressure/small contact patch on the "front" drive (steer) tires. This will cause a unsatisfactory traction condition that promotes "floating" and swerving going down the road.... Perhaps a softer compound, wider paddle tire would help....
I don't know how much side flex that tire has, but that may be a contribution to the problem.
The floating issue going down the road is probably the main reason that almost all cars and trucks on the road are front steer....
Perhaps the handling claim was made with narrow turf tires... (more contact, more pressuer/softer compound...)
***** I don't know why you feel that way? What did I say that doesn't have a basis in fact?
No I don't own one, but what does that have to do with trying to analyze a problem based on the video evidence provided so kindly by Wes?
The ribs that I was trying to refer to are rather narrow, and I suspect it is paired with a harder compound to promote life. The rear wheels spin on a castor (like a shopping cart), the steering is accomplished via altering the speed of the left and right front wheels, which don't pivot. If you have ever driven a forklift in slick conditions, you would note that the thing floats and swerves and the rear wheels (which are steered on a forklift) have to do a lot more work to keep you going relatively straight. Also if the side flex of a tire is excessive enough, it will make the vehicle looser in handling. By referring to turf tires, just think of the tires on the back of your standard lawn tractor, more like a car in terms of rubber on the road, and a softer compound to boot.... By using a narrower tire, you reduce the ground patch, but also raise the psi of the ground contact. He has wide tires (less psi-more floating in mud) with narrow ribs (better penetration into loose surface-mud/gravel/whatever), but the narrow ribs require a harder compound to reduce tire wear from road use (too much slipping/localized pressure). If he put on tires with thicker ribs and a softer compound, he would increase road contact, and reduce tire deformation from just driving. Turf tires can be thought of as slicks-they don't grab for crap in loose/muddy conditions, and they have a lot of contact surface for dry/solid conditions.
And while I can't remember what hand full of cars (trucks/whatever) had rear steer, the fact is that nearly every automotive on the road is front steer. It just makes it simpler and easier to correct deviations if the correcting wheels are first. Also having the steering wheels up front reduces uncontrolled whip around, if you want a example, find a empty parking lot (or field) and try to drive around at speed in reverse. Or try driving a Hi-lo at high speed. Now on top of that difficulty is the fact that the actual steering is accomplished by varying the speed of the drive wheels. You can get a feel for that if you watch tractor pulling, where most steer with their brakes, because the front end is airborne... But if you have access to nearly any farm tractor I can think of after say 1940, you would discover that the brake pedal (for those so equipped), is actually 2 pedals, usually locked together by a bar between the foot pads. When the bar is disengaged, you can brake one drive wheel or the other, and depending on the tires-My grandmother's ford 5000 series tractor could slide it's steer tires and turn without turning the steering wheel. This very same concept is what has made tracked vehicles-be they tractors, dozers, construction equipment, or military tanks turn. So when you look at this piece of equipment, just picture a tank with a pair of wheels, and the spinning wheels from a shopping cart/buggy on the back. Yes there are shocks now on this model, but all they do is prevent the shopping cart/buggy wheels from flapping back and forth (the way they do when you run really fast in the store).
I wish you a good day sir, I have to head off to bed to get ready for a long shift tonight...
It's not the tires... it's the weight issue that technically isn't there on the back end. Lighter material is used to save costs on construction of said equipment. Wes already pointed out one huge issue, too much air pressure in the rears and the dealer did NOT add enough weight in the weight box. It's common sense really.
***** I am sorry that you don't wish to converse respectfully.
If you are a farmer, I thank you for producing. However, whether you are capable of receiving the knowledge I am trying to share or not, does not discount the accuracy of my point. This vehicle drives and steers from the same 2 tires, and does so not by turning them side to side, but by varying the speed at which they roll. The rear wheels have no input on the handling of the machine, you could replace them with a ball with no effect on handling.... Different tires have different capabilities in different environments. The ones Wes chose are likely poor performers on the road, and good in mud, but that was his choice....
I hope you don't try racing, I think that you might find it a little too challenging, as one of the most important factors is vehicle setup, which includes tire choice, as well as bound, rebound, spring rate, castor, camber, toe, weight balance, etc...., all of which must be tuned specifically to the track conditions, vehicle and driver. If you don't wish to believe me, ask any racing team (not your buddy, but a professional racing team).
TsmnnDvl5 The weights and air pressure, were to fix the problem with the back of the mower lifting off the ground every time he slowed down, or stopped. If you watch the video of the delivery, you can see the difference proportionally between the old mower dropping it's header, and the new mower picking up it's header+ the lifting issue as he is working the field. Essentially, the header is heavy enough it nearly moves the center of balance of the mower over the front drive wheels. Adding weights to the back, moved the center of balance toward the back of the mower, and farther from the front drive wheels. And lowering the tire pressure allows the tire to act more as a spring, and absorb more of the impacts/irregularities in the terrain being covered.
My reply was in hopes of giving Wes aid in figuring out why the mower wasn't "handling" as well as hoped while going down the road. And while keeping the rear wheels on the ground helps, they don't actually control how the thing goes down the road. They have NO steering input, you could replace them with a big ball in a cup as far as that is concerned. If it were a combine harvestor, the rear wheels would steer, but not on this mower (or the last one). This means that the main drive wheels (front in this case), control the steering, not by turning side to side, but rolling faster or slower.
Adding more weight, will slow the speed at which it starts to turn, or stops turning, but it will not make it turn-unless it is to pull the back end down the hill (or crown of the road). Hence-why the mower is "crabbing" (going sideways) down the road (crown of the road-same thing that makes the rain run to the side of the road...).
So I have to state again, this is one of those times where tire choice has a big impact on how it handles-in this case, the critical tires to worry about, are the front drive/steer tires, the others don't really matter....
+onelonleyfarmer Wes, I seem to be hitting a roadblock here, would you be so kind as to back me up, or if you disagree.....
I don't really have a face on youtube, but you are respected. I suspect that you-if you have had time to see my posting and the responses- would understand and likely agree that it is at least a good possibility of what is happening...
Good review, to me that is shoddy work to send out a machine as expensive as that one is with the hood not secured properly and that radiator screen not clearing itself is similarly pathetic.
Excellent review!!!!
rocks are the least of the things you want coming up to the glass I've had a blade on my nh 617 side mower say hi to me as it passed into my cab. that is a o shit kind of day
Made in the USA Wes?
Why not make the step retractorable
retractable* ;) Why mount a tractor on it ??? =P
Just kiddi'n, i just went into grammarmode ^^
I love ur vid sue right they need to get there heads out there ass
Wez Nice mower Good review
They need to make engineers have a number of hours in the field of what they are engining to get the feel of it. NH engineers to get smart and fix idiot ideas they had. But that goes for all engineers all jobs, engineers are paper pushers people that build and run these machines are the real engineers when It comes down to it.
How fast are you mowing with it? Does it cut faster than the old one? We taxpayers want to know if it was worth our expense. Lol. Seriously tho, how does it compare?
ok the taxpayer comments have to stop i receive no money from the taxpayer to farm!!!!! i did at one point but it was such a small amount i stopped going into that office. it just wasn't worth the aggravation to get $1800 a year.
There are no more direct payments in the Farm Bill.
even if there was i would never go into that office again they suck in there,
50 cal install would be good shoot deer as you mow great idea.. kill too birds with one stone. great vid as always..
Seems like there is untold amounts of misery with this machine.
OR he could use Gramps M and a sickle bar mower like I do. Hmmmm..
What's this cutter cost? I'll bet it's as much as a house. They should fix what you want them to for free! I know though - like you - I want to make my own mods that make sense. The company most likely won't do that. It's hard to get flotation tires not to drift / it's even more difficult when the rear wheels swivel. Without those dampers it would be a real PITA.
What else you do besides baling and soy beans? How many acres you got own farmable land? Have you ever thought buying and New Holland or Ford tractor?
Greetings from Finland! Here we have 250 acres of wheat, rye, sugarbeet and potatoes.
Norower240
Hé Wes I thought you were a John Deere guy, so why choose a New Holland and why not a John Deere windrower?
I guess the dealer wouldn't buy the old tires and bracket back???? Your never going to be totally satisfied with everything on a new piece of equipment???? That front windows is very expensive!!!!
I'm a British farmer, call me an idiot but what exactly is this machine for? We don't have them here.
to mow hay with. it will swath grain and other crops to.
No excuse for rocks. A heavy field roller once a year will sort that.
Someone told you some BS Wes, Nascar does not work with any one that you mentioned.
what the hell would nascar know about steering, all they do is turn left. lol
I was wondering how many acres you can cut in an hour we have a 1431 and I cut 70 acres in about 8 hours
i am not sure how many with this mower bit i knot it is averaging 13.78 acres an hour and i am sure it will go up as we get used to it
heyhey1956 . Yup... love that design... Im going to try and find a good used one with low hours
oilerman9406 Well those MacDon windrowers would have to handle a whole lot better on the road than the New Holland design especially under braking because you haven't got all the weight of the mower pulling you over under hard braking, I also like their new Ultra Glide Cab suspension system four-corner “custom tuned” independent suspension system features suspension stabilization to prevent cab roll and chop!
i tested out the mcdon 2 years ago and was not to impressed with the machine.
I dont think its so much the new holland design....windrowers just arent ment to handle great at speed like that