Turbo Civic Dyno Tuning - Stock Boosted D15/D16 VTEC
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2022
- In this video, we take the turbo boosted honda civic to the dyno to get tuned.
This is a stock Honda D-series D15Z4 bottom end with a D16Z6 P08 SOHC vtec cylinder head. it has fake ARP head studs, 440cc injectors and a Walbro 255 fuel pump, the rest is all stock Honda or spare shop parts
We spent over an hour on the dyno doing tuning and power runs. and with a tiny bit more boost we made over 50% more power at the end, but it was not without its issues.
Online Honda Repair Manual - shrsl.com/40flk
22% OFF Any Manual - At Checkout Use Code: RISINGBOOST22
Affiliate link to helpful online repair manuals from eManualOnline
Product Links
NGK Plug Wires
Amazon - amzn.to/3RCXXAu
eBay - ebay.us/YBN9Fl
Catch Can
Amazon - amzn.to/3xfiyD3
eBay - ebay.us/ICGjLQ
Head Studs (14.5mm - EK Dseries but not Z6 or D15B)
Amazon - amzn.to/3B0bAUM
16.5mm Studs (D16Z6 and EG EF Dseries)
Amazon - amzn.to/3Q2cdBo
The Build/Setup
1998 RHD Honda Civic EK Hatch.
Full Parts List
Greddy Style (eBay) Turbo Manifold & T04E 0.50AR Turbo (Too Big)
440cc Bosch Injectors & Walbro 255L Fuel Pump.
Stand Alone ECU (Dictator Standard) (RSA)
Stock D15Z4 Block / D16Z6 Head / Y8 Intake Manifold
63mm Custom Charge Pipes / Universal Intercooler (Small 20cm)
Xcell BOV / Internal Westgate 0.3 Bar
eBay Adjustable Cam Gear / 63mm Custom Downpipe & Exhaust.
All product links are affiliate links - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I like that "BALD EAGLE UNITS" Friggin awesome!
I'm glad you found them useful, even if just for a laugh
hahaha 25 year old cylinder head, pump. Really loving this build!! Thank you for the update!
Hi No Limit, thanks for the support and always commenting 👍
Nice little build. I am a d-series man myself let me lend a helping hand if I might, disconnect that PCV valve running to the intake manifold and completely ditch the entire system. Run the block vent from the back of the black box to atmosphere or to a catch can or even to a filter. Your pressurizing the crank. I promise. The little plastic pcv valves do NOT hold boost. Even the metal ones from the DSMs dont hold it every time. They blow open between shifts and dont close properly because blowby gets in them and cruds them up. Your coolant over flow problem will disappear i promise.
Hi Matt, thanks for sharing, I did actually do this, the pipe is blocked after the PCV valve out of view, it's only there because it looks better than to cap off the pipe on the intake. the black catch can is connected to the box at the back of the block and vents to atmosphere.
Yea totally.
Vented mine to atmosphere as well.
Through a catch can though just so I wasn't dumping oil on the road.
Head gasket should be good for lots of power I'm running stock Honda gasket arp studs at 70ftlbs and 29 psi with h beam rods and cp pistons 9.4 to 1 compression 100 octane making about 390 who. You just have to watch the timing single cams don't like timing and knock if car knocks you will start pushing coolant
Great stuff mate I’m so glad it worked out in the end 🤙🤙🤙
Thanks 👍, still want a bit more power but we are getting it dialed in now, no more issues.
Nice set up! Good number… my d16y8 stock block with a build head stage 2 cam with a DSM TD05 16g turbo 440cc injectors 10psi and made 225hp.
Hi Lilo, Very nice! good number for 10psi. I may have to take my car back as the cam timing may have been off, hence the reason vtec only added 14hp and the power dropped off so hard.
Mooi so inlove whit the setup nicely built 🙌🌡⚡️
Hi Rashied, thanks for the support 👍
dude i love that manifold!
Hi Yuno, yes its not bad for a cast, its a copy of an original Greddy turbo manifold from early 2000's
@@RisingBoostYT that was my next question. looked just like my old greddy from back in the day
great content !
Hi Victor, thanks glad you found it enjoyable!
So Smooth!!! 😊🔥🔥
Thanks Mike!!
Awesome numbers bud can't wait to see where this little civic is going next😁, recently finished mine aswell, made 143kw amd 240nm on 7psi @RBTS with a stock D15Z4. Super fun car
Hi Herman, awesome, DM me some pics on Instagram. Mine should have made more since it has the vtec head, but it only added 10kw, I think the cam timing was off because of the vtec head, I made a few changes and its pulling better than ever, may take it back to the dyno or perhaps just do a power run to check kw. But like you said, its a very fun car at these power levels.
@@RisingBoostYT very clean build i cant stand these ghetto builds a bunch of mismatched fenders and all this crap lol.
Clean build, have you looked into an upgraded alternator, thick gauge wires n ground wires, MSD blaster for more spark power? Electronics are the most important when turbo.
Hi Rox, yes I looked at the blaster coil and did some earth wire upgrades when the car was giving me issues some time ago, I opted to not upgrade because of it being a budget build stock motor, I do plan on upgrading the next build, perhaps even going COP, but for now I just replaced everything on the ignition system and got the NGK wires.
Great vid. Best Honda engine era imho. Don't think that fuel pump would like it with the tank near empty. How easy/cheap are honda parts to get these days ?
Hi, yes, definitely the best era, the fuel gauge in my car is super slow to respond, takes over a minute to move, idk why. Parts are fairly common and cheap, parts from Honda is mostly still available but not so cheap.
Hi there, Can you tell me what are your Torque settings you use for the Big End , Mains and Head of the Tutbo Honda engine ?
Hi Darren, I used the specs from this site - www.nthefastlane.com/d-series-torque-specs
Hey mate nice clean build. Just for reference my stock Y4 made 175whp at 10psi then with a Y1 vtec head made 200whp + 220nm. This is with a silly big gt35 sized turbo. What turbo are you using?
Hi, thanks for the info. I do suspect I have something wrong causing the power being lower. My old non-vtec D15 made 163hp at 7psi, then my Mini-Me vtec setup made about the same power with vtec, turning vtec off only loss 10hp, the tuner told me he expected 40hp difference, not 10hp. Your power sounds correct with vtec and 10psi giving 200hp. That was my aim. I lowered my compression and adjusted my cam timing, car felt better but then made 5 less hp. I suspect my vtec is not working correctly or my exhaust manifold is causing a big restriction. My turbo is a T04E 49 50AR 50 trim China special. I plan to get a tubular manifold and a smaller TB25 turbo.
@@RisingBoostYT I hope you get it sorted soon! Love seeing D series content. Sorry at the same time the head was fitted I put in a thinner MLS gasket so the CR is probably 9:1 now. Honda's love CR so don't be afraid to raise it. Gone are the days of low comp turbo ;)
Mine was 9.8 comp ratio and I blew 3 headgasket making 110hp and running conservative timing. I have since installed a perforated steel gasket, dropped comp to 8.9 and now the headgasket is holding at 184hp even though it is known as a weaker gasket. I run pump fuel so that could be my problem.
Nice build brother. What battery is that looks big? I want swap mine aswell
Hi, I use the Willard 630 battery, it is not really bigger as it fits into the factory battery tray. but i have no issues with it.
Oh right on I run 20w-50 on my 150-200k+ motors. Need that oil pressure.
IMO I would drop that coolant temp
Maybe put a 170°f or atleast a 180°f in, it will keep your oil thicker and give you some wiggle room on detonation.
Also blowing a head gasket.
180hp seems low on damn near 10psi.
Should be close or just a hair over 200hp. For the D15B
What AFR was he running it at max psi?
I seen 10:1 for a moment on the video.
That's a little fat.
Im impressed how thorough the Dyno shops in Europe are, something I've noticed. I suppose it's due to the regulations.
I was boosted on a d16y8 for awhile
8-10 psi on a T04E tuned it myself but I imagine it was 170-200hp (in EK coupe)
Turned it up to 15psi blew a turbo manifold gasket so took it off because I knew I'd blow it up lol.
Then went high comp ported head
12:1.
Anyways I'm here because
I'll be slapping my turbo on my EG coupe witch has the D15B.
Shooting for 10psi. While I build my Vitara block that's been on the stand for 2 years lmao.
I'll be trying out those cheap studs, you gave me some confidence.
I have a set already for the d16
But don't want to buy another set especially with the prices now and wait times.
Subscribed... keep up the good stuff I'll be following 🤘
"It's turbo time"
Ahh just thought of something.
Are you still running a catalytic converter?
Don't know exactly where you are but I imagine you don't have much of a choice on that. Would explain the HP and also the tuner not putting to much timing in it.
Hi Zach, thanks for sharing advice, i got a fan controller specifically for that reason to keep the temps lower, it does not go 20f over after the thermostat opens. My mix match mini-me setup had a 9.8 compression ratio, that was what was causing the HG issues, no catalytic converter also no regulations for me as i am from South Africa, on the lower boost we were running 11 afrs, on the 10psi we were doing 10 to keep it safe, our feuls are not that great and the high comp was making it worse. Also i had the cam timing slightly off, thats hopefully why it was not making the power it should have. I have most issues sorted now an may go back to the dyno soon.
D15 vtec & d16 vtec is the timing mark 12 degrees or 16 degrees after TDC need to measure my marks on pulley to make sure I lock timing to right number have you checked
Hi Frosty, as far as i know it is the D16Y8 sohc vtec that has the 12deg ignition timing because of the cylinder head chamber design it is a higher compression ratio so it runs less timing, so if your head is a P2J its 12, if its a P08 its 16. But i am not 100% sure its only the P2J that runs 12.
What about a D16 with all forged internals, 1,000cc injectors, skunk2 intake manifold, 70mm throttle body CUSTOM ported Y8 head(cutting into the water jacket and welding it closed to match a Z6 port flow) equal length rams horn exhaust manifold, Speeduno stand alone ECU, 68mm twin scroll turbo, CNP Monster coils and more...???
Sounds like a good setup, as soon as it is forged and has proper head studs, you can start making some real power out of a sohc
@@RisingBoostYT I plan to go SRT4 head studs along with wet sleeves. I have already shimmed and ported the oil pump assembly so I can try to avoid the rear cylinder oiling issues these engines are known for.
Bro.. nices videos realy.. im building complete a D16Y8 forged for turbo soo ihave a question, do u have problems withe the king rods besrings, and the generic rings, main bearings... So i wish ACL race but its a little difficult to buy that in my city.
Hi Ricardo, I have no issues at all, but you must consider I am only making about 185hp now and don't plan to make over 220hp on the setup. In my opinion you should be fine, if your oil pressure is good and oil is always on good condition. How much power do you plan to make?
@@RisingBoostYT idk, i only search the car moves good and the sound of the ppppssshhhtt of the BoV when i shift lmao... The forged it's more for reliabilyt than power... I think 10 psi.. max 12 psi and i'm ok
@@ricardogallegos2046 at 10 or 12 psi normal king bearings will be fine, like I said, good oil pressure and regular changes you won't have an issue. I use a bit thicker oil just coz it is an old motor and the crank is still STD, I just put new STD bearing.
@@RisingBoostYT Bro, I read in forums that the Z6 crankshaft is much better... which one are you using?
Hi Ricardo, yes the older style Z6 has cross drill oil feed holes to the rod bearings, the newer Y motors have a single straight hole for the feed to big ends. I have a newer Z4 crank with a single hole. in my opinion it does not make that big of a difference, maybe if you plan to make big power.
Beautiful set up but I love the all motor sound with the crowler cam sound make sound more old school and better to play around turbos are alright but nothing like old school style the cam sound is that people really like make them go back home from the trailers parks to the mountains and a mini me with carbs and a nice cam sound beautiful like a pitt bull ready for a fight on the streets I have a crx and believe me I know is a Rican latino thing mambo king CCR born in the byuoooooo gd job bro
Aftermarket D series cams are just to much coin. Compared to slapping a turbo on.
Nothing wrong with a NA d series.
I've been running around with a ported 12:1 d16y8 for years but I wouldn't drop 1000-2000$ on a d series build.
Endless i was making big power
@@ZT_Performance no a crowler cam they are cheap send you cam in and bingo but you are more into power I'm more about junkyard parts swap head and some wires a computer and programer and go play nothing mayor old school style and if I want really power b16 or k20 on a CRX and bingo junkyard parts again race car really improvement above normal by swapping motor higher rpm motor the torque be the weight of the crx big difference really. By dropping junkyard parts but like I said I love all motor and a drop in cam plus depends on the car crx is the car to build to have fun nothing drive like a crx small light and fast corner better than any other car out there so small that can be drive in the side walk jjj anyway gd job but I stay all motor old school the cam sound is more close home then turbo
Hi Sal, yes true, nothing like a good NA car... perhaps even some ITB, my problem is that the parts are not available to me in my country, also i am at 5700ft of altitude, so NA power is not really an option for me. Turbo was the best bang for buck in my case, the cam and ITB setups are very popular in my country at the costal regions as they get decent power down there. But i would love a high comp B20v still
@@RisingBoostYT I understand amigo and can tell I my self have a lot more fun with my d15b2 with d16z6 vtec head mini me that the rest of motors I drive CRX with different set up but they seem to me out a place to have fun around city and highway the d15b2 mini me for me is the best and still fast bumper to bumper for the cost really is gd investment I have a regrind 2 crowler cam nothing beasty but man it can pull in higher rpm like crazy plus the crx handle normal but I have a lot of alluminum suspension parts plus alluminum crank pulley I make big boys mad trying to loose me but I'm behind the bumpers my made mostly from junkyard parts price real cheap against big money sport cars they get mad 😁 plus my old school style look like a bull frog low down jj but like I said I understand amigo my fast enough for me to play cheap to fix and gd on gas around 40 miles a gallon I run my from 89 octane up to 93 octane not bad at all for a strong and cheap combo call mini me I love to drive her around feel like a go kart on storoid 😁 plus motor weight problably 200 or 225 pounds not bad on suspension parts neither last for Long time all the rest sounds good but take the crx beauty alway her handling alway anyway take care out there kp the gd job
@@RisingBoostYT b20v gd motor with a little bit can produce 250 hp gd enough for a crx really but in my opinion a mini me 140 or 150 hp is enough for me for hardly anything out here speaking for the city and highway my rumble well 10.1 compression nothing wild but man I have fun with my out here special in the city she don't make noise at lights but she sounds like a porche when she start running high rpm I made my own system free flow with a glass pipe in the end for a muffler like I said old school style poor man look from the mountains I love CCR song born in the byuoooooo 😁 I think the crx is the best car to really play light small and gd on gas handle like nothing else really out there like I said real enjoyable to drive feel like a go kart on steroids 😁 with the mini me set up but the b20v is a gd motor but the b16 or k20 are beautiful when they hit that higher rpm vtec special with the right transmission and some old tricks I saw a Friend of my beating the crap of 350z mustang GT corvettes even porches in the highway with the b16 motor in a crx when he drop that crx to 3 gear down hold on her rpm will go over 10.000 rpm all motor was crazy amigo crazy I think she was close to 180 to 200 miles a hr and he build her from junkyard parts and old Puerto Rican tricks man that was scary and I'm taking in seconds I know he put a different cam from another motor and alluminum parts but I hope one day you get you dream come true never give up amigo one day you will build a b20v ok sorry for the long writing but Is cool 😎 to see some one loving the hondas gd environment for street race and have fun with it get you self a second generation crx first ok then rumble out there ok
What style wheel and tire combo do you have it looks very nice?
Hi, the rim is a Advan RS - 17"x7J - 25 offset with a 5mm spacer. a 35 offset has the best fitment but must roll fenders. tire 205/40/R17
Hi, the rim is a Advan RS - 17"x7J - 25 offset with a 5mm spacer. a 35 offset has the best fitment but must roll fenders. tire 205/40/R17
Amazing so you got 185HP like the Type R EK9!
Yeah, for like a 1/10 the price.
@@RisingBoostYT I almost found the EJ9.It's a 1.800euros donor car :-D
That would free a lot of budget for my mods and the Torqamp
Im jealous 😩 did u change anything to your engine?
Hi Austin, only change to the motor internals is $44 Amazon ARP copy head studs.
Hi. Nice build. I´m curious. What´s the VTEC engagement RPM of this build?
Hi, after looking at both a vtec and no vtec dyno graph, 3700rpm was the best place to engage vtec.
@@RisingBoostYT Thanks for your reply. I asked because I´m concerned about the oil pressure when it´s hot (oil about 100℃）and the VTEC kicks in.
Even that Hondata says it´s ok to set the VTEC at 3000 rpm if supercharged, and Defi (japanese gauge brand, known as Nippon Seiki also) says that 29 psi at 4000 rpm is dangerous (speaking in general) knowing that D16 hasn´t such risk factor in normal condition, I´m still wondering if setting the VTEC to a lower RPM could be a good idea; just that. Escepticism lol.
Oil pressure depends a lot on the condition of your engine and oil pump, oil pressure lower as clearances increase. 29psi is fairly low for "performance use" of a motor. try a slightly thicker oil, I use "high mileage" oil and get around 40psi hot at low rpm, but it goes up with rpm. also make sure a 3000rpm vtec will give you more power, vtec so low you could actually lose power. in my case vtec makes less power below 3700rpm.
What is the name of that blue in the bay please.
Hi Kawoan, it is a spray can colour called "Grotto Blue" from the brand Spray-On.
Great! like that ! i do on my youtube chanel 295 HP and 377 tq with an D15Z6 at 18 psi ! CIVIC DAV4WS Slip-peut on dyno if you interesting . congratulation from France !
Hi, thank you. I will go check it out!
What seats did you use?
Hi Austin, these are just cheap seats that look like the recaro's, I got them used and had them reupholstered in the recaro "Bride-Style" fabric.
What’s the engine bay paint code
Hi Bro, not sure about the code, but it is called "Grotto Blue"
Stock piston or vitara
Hi Wann, Stock pistons but not OEM Honda, Spare shop replacement pistons.
4:35 just rebuilded and its already overheating
That's where the temp always sits, I think the JDM civic may sit higher than udsm cluster. Other comments also pointed out the temp, however on the ecu its on 180F, cooler than normal
Lmao@ fake arp head studs
It has $44 china studs... Can't let lack of funds prevent us from cracking boost in a residential area at 3am, you know, civic things.