@@jessewhite7751 I believe so. Its so that the debris from the roof doesnt eventually clog up the pipes and stop working. The drain off the gutters is its own separate pipe from the french drain.
Much respect for the care to discuss utility protection in your video. I spent 3 years as a utility locator, when it comes to lines between the house and the utility boxes there are three factors that lead to that situation. Fiber lines being non conductive have no way to be located and the utility company usually only buries them an inch deep so just pull them up. Next no locator besides gas and electric will mark inactive lines if there is a telephone service or cable service that is inactive the contractor won't mark it. And finally ownership. Locators are paid by the utility owner and the utility owner does not want us to incur the risk of marking something they don't own since as you have seen sometimes the marks are off and if you dug through it after I marked it in a different location I am responsible.
I did a very similar system, I used 3/4" gravel because I felt it filled in around the pipe and compacted well while having plenty of void. I think 1-1.5" rock can damage pipe and relies on fabric to stretch into the air gap of fabric because dirt over time is going to try to push into the air voids near the fabric. The application you have probably won't see heavy traffic but my installation could. I also used 3M spray glue to seal cuts in fabric for utilities with small scrap to overlap cuts, seal to utility, and I spray glued the overlap on top. It is a million times faster than stitching and it will positively seal out the dirt from working its way in. I also would have ran your pipe to daylight, way better than an emitter that will not last as long as the rest of the system. My system runs to a drywell with pump to street because my whole property was lower than street but higher than my neighbors. My system is 10 years old, still clean as day I installed it and solved all my water issues as well as my neighbors issues. It would have saved me tons of research if this video was put out 8 years ago. I can attest that your theories will work and be reliable for the most part. Good work.
My soil is mostly clay, it doesn't affect my system, I made sure to put topsoil on top wherever I wanted dirt on top but in my river rock xeroscape areas I ran drain tile to surface fabric. I made sure to dig down as far as possible without getting below footer or foundation walls. I didn't find a end to clay but if I had the drain tile would pull any subsurface water away. Clay may eventually clog my fabric but I also live in a dry climate so it will be slow. If you live with lots of clay and lots of rain design it so you can replace it when it shows signs of issues. Running fabric to top with rock should be easier to replace.
You are a "natural" teacher who clearly loves his subject & takes pride in his work, with respect for his students/viewers. Thank you for the information so capably and methodically imparted. I've watched over 80 French Drain offerings on TH-cam, and yours rank for clarity and thoroughness. I was blown-away when I witnessed the stitching on your geo cloth - like a final consecration! Can you create a brief training video showing the stitching procedure, with the tools you use? You're an artist! Congratulations and thank you.
Thank you for the kind words! We are really hyped that our videos are helping people around the USA and hopefully the world! But I can’t take credit for the stitching of the geo textile fabric because I learned how to do it from Sam at Sam’s French Drains and Landscaping. Check out his channel, he does really good work. Thank you again for your support!💪
I’m in northeast in Ny state Orange County. Who do you recommend? I need this to protect ny home. I’d hire you if you be willing to do this kinda work. Loved your video
The main point to calling 811 is responsibility. If it's 10 feet off the mark the utility is responsible for the repair. If you don't call and hit something, you will find out the hard way why you call.
I once called 811 out considering to dig soemthing. They only marked in the street. When I called the lady said yea maybe they don’t know where the lines are in your yard. But every video I watch ppl mark in the grass.?
Any excavator (including homeowner) is legally responsible to contact underground service alert (USA) 811 when digging. 811 member utilities don't mark privately installed/owned underground, meaning they won't mark after their meter. A private utility locator is hired if this can result in a conflict.
It’s important that the contractor call 811, not the homeowner. If the homeowner calls 811 on behalf of the contractor, and the contractor hits underground utility, the homeowner is responsible.
Definitely want to do it right! Rigid PVC is for downspouts and yard drains, corrugated is for French drains! I can't believe how many people just bury the black corrugated for downspout drains and call it a day. I used 3" PVC for the downspout lines and 4" for the main line on my system.
Be careful with such strict rules. This can be dependent on where you live. In Florida where the ground never freezes rigid PVC works. In colder climates that may or may not be the case.
Pretty dope. About to buy my first house in Pittsburgh and drainage seems critical in most areas out there. The house I bid on in particular has two French drains so this video was awesome so see how the drain is employed correctly so that I can evaluate my own systems
Just had a new drainage system put in at my home. We did 2 pipe systems all the way to the street so one drain cannot clog the other at any point. Also a catch basin just below the last segment of pipe to the street. Learned this from my contractor who had an incident where they repaved a street and paved over a customer's french drain exits to the street
Just an idea for you that I’ve done before. When splicing the fabric together you can use a propane torch and give the fabric a quick and light shot of heat and push the fabric together it actually works pretty well. As long as the pieces of fabric are overlapping each other.
Your a real natural instructor, the steps are very logical and informative, your application of from experience shows a smarter way of doing the job right. Mahalo, outstanding!
Lots of great details in here. Love the attention to Y fittings instead of T. Also love that you're using good piping material and that your gutter drains and French drain are separate. Thats so key and so many people miss that! Only thing I disagree with is fabric. It gets plugged up with clay and organic matter and slows infiltration down considerably. Often the water ponds on top of the system and creates a water problem before it can percolate through the textile and into the system. The tiny pores of fabric clog up way quicker than the rock. Just been my experience!
Well done. Very informative video. You mentioned stitching fabric up a few times. It would have been very useful to demonstrate that. My guess is that you used hog ring pliers with stainless steel hog rings.
One of the best drain installations I’ve seen on TH-cam. I see a few people using basins in their systems for large amounts of water, what do you recommend about them?
Wow! Excellent! Thank you! so much. just one thing. I think those band clamps will rust away over time. I doubt they are all SS. Maybe Zip ties and silicone adhesive instead?
Im glad i ran across this video. I have been trying to learn a good way of doing this, and this is one of the cleanest and best explained videos. I garden and wondered if there is a way to use this runoff to feed my plants, trees, etc. Can it be tied to an irrigation system or something of the sort? Water is expensive in VA....lol. thanks!
Pretty good video! Your explanations are concise and thorough! I tend to agree with most of your instructions (but, hey, I am NOT a professional OR saying you're Wrong !) 😅 1 thing I AM curious about, though. Why the pop-up? You said there was a 'natural area' just beyond the end of the pipe run. WHY Not just let the solid drain pipe just flow directly into the natural area?? 🤔
Question:Why do you use 360 degree perforations in the french drain pipe, instead of ONLY perforations 180 deg (top of pipe)? Would that not allow for better flow of water? Great video and I appreciate your attention to details on this install!
More perforations means more water and air movement. Pipes with holes only on the bottom will get clogged over time with sediment. Having slots 360 degrees around the pipe ensures this will never happen.
Definitely one of the best, if not the best, drainage system video. Question: what type of hard pipe would you recommend for a cold climate having to deal with a deep frost line? Thanks!
Excellent video! I did not know a drain could end just anywhere in the yard with a small pop up emitter (I believe you called it). I thought they needed to have some sort of a crock or basin to empty into, good to know! Also Is this appropriate for a home with a basement? I feel like I have seen french drains dug all the way down below the basement floor level too? Trying to understand the difference between the two depth levels of drainage being installed. My son had a small two foot section in front of house that allowed water in his basement for the first time since he lived there, he has now found a leak in corner of gutter and sealed it, and I feel like this could add to the solution! Lastly, I have seen other videos saying you need to keep french drains 4 feet from the house foundation?
SDR has its pluses and minuses depending on the climate year round. You are referencing many of the French Drain Man tips / tricks and overall practices. Curious why you didn’t use the armour pipe for solid pipe AND why did you use a boot to connect SDR to corrugated and not the HDPE fitting for PVC to corrugated ?
Excellent Video! My trench will be about same size as yours. How do I calculate how much Gravel to use per 20 feet of French Drain? My drain is 100 feet so I can figure the amount of Gravel to buy. Thx
Do you always recommend pvc for gutters over corrugated? I have 100ft of corrugated from lowes ready to go because FDM convinced me over everyone else that it was at least as good as pvc... now i'm having doubts
Good explanation! One question, you are draining all that water to one spot in the yard where you have the pop up. Isn't it going to pool there (or at least always have a wet spot there)? You did mention that the slope goes off to the right beyond the fence, but I would imagine that area will be pretty water logged. Would it make sense to do a drywell instead?
I have a house with negative slope and I need to run a drain around three sides of the property. I like this method and think this is what I'm going to use. What type of fabric do you use? I would think over time any sort of silt we'll get through the fabric but really what other options do you have. Also what about going into a drywall as opposed to a pop-up emitter? Any advice about dry wells?
Hello. Since it seems no answer is coming from the author I’ll help haha. The best way most times is to put dirt against the foundation to create positive fall away from the house. If that’s not possible be sure to keep the french drain away from your house. Don’t put it right against. Water will go right into the foundation. 3 feet away is best like he does in this video. You can also put a pond liner in the French drain ditch on the house side of it to keep water from going towards the house. Also be careful with a French drain if you have sandy soil near your house. It could just make the situation worse. The fabric is 4 ounce non-woven geo textile. It allows water to pass thru easily but provides separation of soils and aggregates. Don’t use woven! Water moves thru it too but at a much slower rate. It’s not recommended to empty stormwater into a “closed system” like a stone storage area or dry well. Daylighting the pipe horizontally is best. But again if you must…. A decent rule of thumb is 10 cubic yards of volume in your stone storage hole per 1,000 square feet of runoff that will be flowing into it. That’s here in Georgia so that can change based on your area’s annual rainfall numbers etc. One last thing you will need to use flowells. These are basically upside down trash cans set in the gravel with a hole to receive the pipe. It provides an empty void to exit pipe into. Keeps it from clogging and provides a clean out too.
@@lukelovell1055 Thank you for responding and the advice. I am going to do everything that I can to take the roof runoff and direct it away from the house. Unfortunately one of my neighbors is downhill from me and I don't want to flood them out so I will have to get creative with the runoff. Maybe disperse the water to multiple locations or like you suggested, use a flow-well and when that fills up, pipe to another location. I am working with an excavator that will be putting in a large concrete dry well in the area that sees the most water. The driveway will have a trough drain where it meets the apron that exits from the garage and that will be the only surface runoff that will go to the dry well, along with the french drain. That's the plan as of now. Subsurface is very sandy in the areas that I hand dug so I should get good drainage around the drywell. I will keep in mind NOT to use woven fabric. I'm guessing that you said not to use that type of fabric because it could allow sentiment into the french drain and eventually clog it and add sentiment to the bottom of the drywell. Is that correct? Thanks again for responding and your assistance.
@@the_stixXx you’re welcome. No actually the woven fabric is a good material to use for separating soils and aggregates. It’s stronger than the non woven too. But you should not use it to wrap a French drain because water passes through it very very slowly, so your French drain would kind of be useless. Water would be very slowly moving thru the woven to enter the gravel and pipe. However the non woven allows water to pass thru quickly while still providing good separation of the gravel and soil.
@@lukelovell1055 gotcha. I thought the opposite. I'm a carpenter so I'm not too familiar with landscaping materials and practices but always wanting to learn something new, so thank you. This POS house is going to make me learn A LOT... LoL. Thanks again!
Hey man, love your videos. I’m in NC and have a serious drainage problem on my property. I’ve got to add Gutters to the house and then run probably 200 foot of hard pipe to a ditch behind behind our house. I’m also considering adding a French drain grid in our backyard to try to take some pressure off our septic system when we get heavy rains. Is this something that you’ve had to deal with before?
Great video. Thank you! But I didn't understand. If you recommend putting the pipe on the tranch's bottom without any gravel underneath, doesn't that mean that roots CAN grow into the pipe from the bottom (even through geofabric)? Because there is no air space under the pipe in this case. Thanks.
Doing it right is key. Do you have anyone in the Ft. Myers area you could recommend that would do this properly, like you showed? My neighbor and I have sitting water between our houses and could us the help.
Nice work on the job and the video! Was there any consideration on having grade go up beyond the brick near the back of the house? How was that handled?
Very helpful video. I am going to try to replicate this in an area of my backyard that floods, I only have to trench about 20 ft. What is the proper way to ensure the trench grades downward as you are digging? Just a level, or some other specific method or trick? Thank you!
You can use a laser level, a string line or the tried and true method of running some water in the trench, skimming the bottom with your shovel and making sure the water is going in the direction you want it to go.
Im confused about that pop up thing at the end of the run. It looked like in the video the water got to that point and continued flowing somewhere? It didnt come up through the top, which to me makes sense , but where does the water go at that point? Does it actually rise up through that if theres enough flow? Having a hard time understanding that feature, though the rest makes perfect sense.
@@briandonovan6546 If you have good perking soil, water will leech into the ground for awhile until it becomes too saturated. Once this happens then the water will begin to flow out of the top of the pop up emitter as long as your system has slope.
I have a 12 feet of gap between the structure wall and the compound wall (concrete) do i need 2 system of these lines discharging water or is 1 system of 2 pipes as shown here is good enough?
Some snakes can be forced to go in the direction you want by rotation on their axis but that takes some skill. If you hire a company like Rooter they have training to make the turn but its important to know that wyes are self-cleaning whereas T's are self-barricading.
Good question! You want to keep your French drain separate from your downspout system for two reasons: 1 Sending gutter water through your French drain will create a leech field effect making the ground even more saturated. 2 Any contaminates from your gutters such as leaves, roof single gravel and debris will enter your French drain and clog the perforated holes causing the French drain to not work over time. You want to keep that French drain in a contained system. Hope this helps💪
I have a very important question! Why did you only do part of the property with a French drain and not the whole run? I have a real issue with water sitting on part of my property and I started doing research…I think the French man stuff is awesome so I’m going to use that as well! Also not positive why you did pvc…I watched a lot of French man’s videos as well so I’m trying to figure out the best way to make this work! Would truly appreciate the feed back! I want to deff do a duel system just not sure if I need to do part french or the whole thing! Any feedback is extremely appreciated!
I think he did pvc because he could being in Florida; much cheaper than doing a french drain. Here in the north it is generally not advised to use hard pipe above the frost line
The reason for a french drain is to get water away from a level surface where it tends to puddle up, then in other areas where it goes downhill, or not level anymore, you don't need a french drain because the water can get away by itself, the reason for installing a french drain only part ways.
I’ve watched half a dozen or more french drain videos.. this is hands down the best one. Great job!
Thank you!
So for a gutter run off you should use a solid line with no perforations?@StormWaterDrainageSolutions
@@jessewhite7751 I believe so. Its so that the debris from the roof doesnt eventually clog up the pipes and stop working. The drain off the gutters is its own separate pipe from the french drain.
I have no intentions of installing a french drain. But, this video was a fun and educational listen.
Great job!
Much respect for the care to discuss utility protection in your video. I spent 3 years as a utility locator, when it comes to lines between the house and the utility boxes there are three factors that lead to that situation. Fiber lines being non conductive have no way to be located and the utility company usually only buries them an inch deep so just pull them up. Next no locator besides gas and electric will mark inactive lines if there is a telephone service or cable service that is inactive the contractor won't mark it. And finally ownership. Locators are paid by the utility owner and the utility owner does not want us to incur the risk of marking something they don't own since as you have seen sometimes the marks are off and if you dug through it after I marked it in a different location I am responsible.
I did a very similar system, I used 3/4" gravel because I felt it filled in around the pipe and compacted well while having plenty of void. I think 1-1.5" rock can damage pipe and relies on fabric to stretch into the air gap of fabric because dirt over time is going to try to push into the air voids near the fabric. The application you have probably won't see heavy traffic but my installation could. I also used 3M spray glue to seal cuts in fabric for utilities with small scrap to overlap cuts, seal to utility, and I spray glued the overlap on top. It is a million times faster than stitching and it will positively seal out the dirt from working its way in. I also would have ran your pipe to daylight, way better than an emitter that will not last as long as the rest of the system. My system runs to a drywell with pump to street because my whole property was lower than street but higher than my neighbors. My system is 10 years old, still clean as day I installed it and solved all my water issues as well as my neighbors issues. It would have saved me tons of research if this video was put out 8 years ago. I can attest that your theories will work and be reliable for the most part. Good work.
What keeps the dirt from clogging the fabric?
@@Rick-tb4so Depends on the soil type. As long as its not clay, you should be good.
@jefftee448 what impact will having clay have? If the soil around the drain has been amended will that help?
My soil is mostly clay, it doesn't affect my system, I made sure to put topsoil on top wherever I wanted dirt on top but in my river rock xeroscape areas I ran drain tile to surface fabric. I made sure to dig down as far as possible without getting below footer or foundation walls. I didn't find a end to clay but if I had the drain tile would pull any subsurface water away. Clay may eventually clog my fabric but I also live in a dry climate so it will be slow. If you live with lots of clay and lots of rain design it so you can replace it when it shows signs of issues. Running fabric to top with rock should be easier to replace.
Outstanding work, thanks for taking the time to do it right!
💪
Right on Kory! Keep up the great work brother 👍🏻
You are a "natural" teacher who clearly loves his subject & takes pride in his work, with respect for his students/viewers. Thank you for the information so capably and methodically imparted. I've watched over 80 French Drain offerings on TH-cam, and yours rank for clarity and thoroughness. I was blown-away when I witnessed the stitching on your geo cloth - like a final consecration! Can you create a brief training video showing the stitching procedure, with the tools you use? You're an artist! Congratulations and thank you.
Thank you for the kind words! We are really hyped that our videos are helping people around the USA and hopefully the world! But I can’t take credit for the stitching of the geo textile fabric because I learned how to do it from Sam at Sam’s French Drains and Landscaping. Check out his channel, he does really good work. Thank you again for your support!💪
@@StormWaterDrainageSolutionsy hoy se
No h
The tool used is a "hog ring stapler"
I’m in northeast in Ny state Orange County. Who do you recommend? I need this to protect ny home. I’d hire you if you be willing to do this kinda work. Loved your video
The main point to calling 811 is responsibility. If it's 10 feet off the mark the utility is responsible for the repair. If you don't call and hit something, you will find out the hard way why you call.
They're actually responsible if the mark is off beyond 2ft on either side
I once called 811 out considering to dig soemthing. They only marked in the street. When I called the lady said yea maybe they don’t know where the lines are in your yard. But every video I watch ppl mark in the grass.?
Any excavator (including homeowner) is legally responsible to contact underground service alert (USA) 811 when digging. 811 member utilities don't mark privately installed/owned underground, meaning they won't mark after their meter. A private utility locator is hired if this can result in a conflict.
10 ft is insane. Where is that? In Wisconsin, it's 1.5 ft.
It’s important that the contractor call 811, not the homeowner. If the homeowner calls 811 on behalf of the contractor, and the contractor hits underground utility, the homeowner is responsible.
Best video I've seen on French drains. Very clear and to the point explaining how and why to do things. Good job thanks!
Thank you!
best french drain explainer i've ever watched, and i've watched many. Thank you!
@@pigup2 Glad you enjoyed the video!
One of the best most detailed videos on this topic! Great info! Thanks!
You and the French Drain guy are awesome. I have very simple standing water issue on both sides of the house I can address with your videos. Thanks
@@francoisl7663 That means a lot, thank you! I’m glad we could help 🙏
Definitely want to do it right! Rigid PVC is for downspouts and yard drains, corrugated is for French drains! I can't believe how many people just bury the black corrugated for downspout drains and call it a day. I used 3" PVC for the downspout lines and 4" for the main line on my system.
Be careful with such strict rules. This can be dependent on where you live. In Florida where the ground never freezes rigid PVC works. In colder climates that may or may not be the case.
Pretty dope. About to buy my first house in Pittsburgh and drainage seems critical in most areas out there. The house I bid on in particular has two French drains so this video was awesome so see how the drain is employed correctly so that I can evaluate my own systems
That is a first class job right there.
best video I have seen on gutter drainage. Great job!
The way he built out this system, is the exact system I needed on my property. Great job
Thank you 💪
Just wanted to say thank you! Thank you for using SDR35! I will never understand why more people don't use the proper materials.
💪
Just had a new drainage system put in at my home. We did 2 pipe systems all the way to the street so one drain cannot clog the other at any point. Also a catch basin just below the last segment of pipe to the street. Learned this from my contractor who had an incident where they repaved a street and paved over a customer's french drain exits to the street
Just an idea for you that I’ve done before. When splicing the fabric together you can use a propane torch and give the fabric a quick and light shot of heat and push the fabric together it actually works pretty well. As long as the pieces of fabric are overlapping each other.
Your a real natural instructor, the steps are very logical and informative, your application of from experience shows a smarter way of doing the job right. Mahalo, outstanding!
Thank you for the support and kind words!
First class operation. Thank you for making an educational video about it.
Absolutely, thank you for the positive comment! 🙏
Bro, best videos on drains
💪
That was an incredible explanation!!!
Nice and thorough install. Great job.
Thank you!
Lots of great details in here. Love the attention to Y fittings instead of T. Also love that you're using good piping material and that your gutter drains and French drain are separate. Thats so key and so many people miss that! Only thing I disagree with is fabric. It gets plugged up with clay and organic matter and slows infiltration down considerably. Often the water ponds on top of the system and creates a water problem before it can percolate through the textile and into the system. The tiny pores of fabric clog up way quicker than the rock. Just been my experience!
How to keep dirt from clogging up the rocks then?
You do a very thorough job, great video.
I’m just here because I enjoy videos like this
We will keep em coming!
What an awesome video! Very informative! Thanks!
🙏💪
1) Great job! 2) I need to watch this again!
Very nicely done and well explained. Thanks for a great video.
Excellent job! Best descriptive video!
excelent video and thanks for the effort and shearing your knoledge
Great video, thanks.
💪
Well done. Very informative video. You mentioned stitching fabric up a few times. It would have been very useful to demonstrate that. My guess is that you used hog ring pliers with stainless steel hog rings.
One of the best drain installations I’ve seen on TH-cam. I see a few people using basins in their systems for large amounts of water, what do you recommend about them?
Thanks for all details provided, great job 👏
Thank you 🙏
Very informative. I'm looking forward to giving this a shot.
💪
Thanks French Drain "Young" Man
Great explanations, TY!
Not a problem!
Good Job ..All the connectors we use are sweep t's and elbows.
Great videos
Thank you 💪
Amazing job! great video
Thank you we appreciate the support!
Amazing video and info, thanks!
Nice work
Thank you 💪
Finally found a great video on drainage. 😮
Thank you 🙏 We got plenty more on the way
Wow! Excellent! Thank you! so much. just one thing. I think those band clamps will rust away over time. I doubt they are all SS. Maybe Zip ties and silicone adhesive instead?
Thank you so much!
Good & informative video 👍
Im glad i ran across this video. I have been trying to learn a good way of doing this, and this is one of the cleanest and best explained videos. I garden and wondered if there is a way to use this runoff to feed my plants, trees, etc. Can it be tied to an irrigation system or something of the sort? Water is expensive in VA....lol. thanks!
Downspout system could be piped into rain barrels to collect water for plants. Google water collection systems.
👍great job good information.
nice job
Thank you 🙏
Thanks for documenting this! Question, why didn't you want to continue the french drain further to the end of the house?
Primo job !!! Dang, that's the way to do it right
Thank you! We take pride in every system we install 💪
Pretty good video!
Your explanations are concise and thorough!
I tend to agree with most of your instructions (but, hey, I am NOT a professional OR saying you're Wrong !) 😅
1 thing I AM curious about, though.
Why the pop-up?
You said there was a 'natural area' just beyond the end of the pipe run.
WHY Not just let the solid drain pipe just flow directly into the natural area?? 🤔
Great job!!
Thank you 💪
Question:Why do you use 360 degree perforations in the french drain pipe, instead of ONLY perforations 180 deg (top of pipe)? Would that not allow for better flow of water? Great video and I appreciate your attention to details on this install!
More perforations means more water and air movement. Pipes with holes only on the bottom will get clogged over time with sediment. Having slots 360 degrees around the pipe ensures this will never happen.
Nice job! That type of work sure ain't for the faint of heart!
You sound like your might be related to The French Drain Man 🤣.
Definitely one of the best, if not the best, drainage system video. Question: what type of hard pipe would you recommend for a cold climate having to deal with a deep frost line? Thanks!
Thank you! 🙏 And a good pure HDPE drainage pipe. If you’re in the north I would stay away from PVC because it will crack from the freezing.
Nice job in such a confined area. Not worried about the open junction between the channel drain and drain pipe inlet?
damn dude you hit the motherload of pipes/wires! Great video!
Excellent video! I did not know a drain could end just anywhere in the yard with a small pop up emitter (I believe you called it). I thought they needed to have some sort of a crock or basin to empty into, good to know! Also Is this appropriate for a home with a basement? I feel like I have seen french drains dug all the way down below the basement floor level too? Trying to understand the difference between the two depth levels of drainage being installed. My son had a small two foot section in front of house that allowed water in his basement for the first time since he lived there, he has now found a leak in corner of gutter and sealed it, and I feel like this could add to the solution! Lastly, I have seen other videos saying you need to keep french drains 4 feet from the house foundation?
Great detail. I’m curious how long this job took to complete.
SDR has its pluses and minuses depending on the climate year round.
You are referencing many of the French Drain Man tips / tricks and overall practices. Curious why you didn’t use the armour pipe for solid pipe AND why did you use a boot to connect SDR to corrugated and not the HDPE fitting for PVC to corrugated ?
Good work Masther 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🌙🌙🌙🤝
Дякую, дуже гарно показали французький дренаж.
А Сала Украине почему не сказал?
@@yevgeniyterekhin3711 а кости от этой туши достанутся вам, а нам хотя бы сало, жаль мне вас, тяжело быть международным изгоем, типа северной кореи
Thank you for sharing. Good knowledge and ideas. Would like to know the type of stitching gun or tool that you stitch the Geo fabric with Pls.
Excellent Video! My trench will be about same size as yours. How do I calculate how much Gravel to use per 20 feet of French Drain? My drain is 100 feet so I can figure the amount of Gravel to buy. Thx
What are you using to stitch the geofabric cuts for passthrough wires or sprinkler pipes etc?
Appears to be galvanized hog rings
@@tombarth82 By golly, I think you’re correct. Good catch!!!
Possibly; although, it would be nice to hear it from the horses mouth
Do you always recommend pvc for gutters over corrugated? I have 100ft of corrugated from lowes ready to go because FDM convinced me over everyone else that it was at least as good as pvc... now i'm having doubts
This is amazingly helpful. Thank you so much. New subscriber here. Happy to become a patron if you go that way!
Good explanation! One question, you are draining all that water to one spot in the yard where you have the pop up. Isn't it going to pool there (or at least always have a wet spot there)? You did mention that the slope goes off to the right beyond the fence, but I would imagine that area will be pretty water logged. Would it make sense to do a drywell instead?
Same questionning
I have a house with negative slope and I need to run a drain around three sides of the property. I like this method and think this is what I'm going to use.
What type of fabric do you use? I would think over time any sort of silt we'll get through the fabric but really what other options do you have.
Also what about going into a drywall as opposed to a pop-up emitter? Any advice about dry wells?
Hello. Since it seems no answer is coming from the author I’ll help haha. The best way most times is to put dirt against the foundation to create positive fall away from the house. If that’s not possible be sure to keep the french drain away from your house. Don’t put it right against. Water will go right into the foundation. 3 feet away is best like he does in this video. You can also put a pond liner in the French drain ditch on the house side of it to keep water from going towards the house. Also be careful with a French drain if you have sandy soil near your house. It could just make the situation worse.
The fabric is 4 ounce non-woven geo textile. It allows water to pass thru easily but provides separation of soils and aggregates. Don’t use woven! Water moves thru it too but at a much slower rate.
It’s not recommended to empty stormwater into a “closed system” like a stone storage area or dry well. Daylighting the pipe horizontally is best. But again if you must…. A decent rule of thumb is 10 cubic yards of volume in your stone storage hole per 1,000 square feet of runoff that will be flowing into it. That’s here in Georgia so that can change based on your area’s annual rainfall numbers etc. One last thing you will need to use flowells. These are basically upside down trash cans set in the gravel with a hole to receive the pipe. It provides an empty void to exit pipe into. Keeps it from clogging and provides a clean out too.
@@lukelovell1055 Thank you for responding and the advice.
I am going to do everything that I can to take the roof runoff and direct it away from the house. Unfortunately one of my neighbors is downhill from me and I don't want to flood them out so I will have to get creative with the runoff. Maybe disperse the water to multiple locations or like you suggested, use a flow-well and when that fills up, pipe to another location.
I am working with an excavator that will be putting in a large concrete dry well in the area that sees the most water. The driveway will have a trough drain where it meets the apron that exits from the garage and that will be the only surface runoff that will go to the dry well, along with the french drain. That's the plan as of now.
Subsurface is very sandy in the areas that I hand dug so I should get good drainage around the drywell. I will keep in mind NOT to use woven fabric. I'm guessing that you said not to use that type of fabric because it could allow sentiment into the french drain and eventually clog it and add sentiment to the bottom of the drywell. Is that correct?
Thanks again for responding and your assistance.
@@the_stixXx you’re welcome. No actually the woven fabric is a good material to use for separating soils and aggregates. It’s stronger than the non woven too. But you should not use it to wrap a French drain because water passes through it very very slowly, so your French drain would kind of be useless. Water would be very slowly moving thru the woven to enter the gravel and pipe. However the non woven allows water to pass thru quickly while still providing good separation of the gravel and soil.
@@lukelovell1055 gotcha. I thought the opposite. I'm a carpenter so I'm not too familiar with landscaping materials and practices but always wanting to learn something new, so thank you. This POS house is going to make me learn A LOT... LoL.
Thanks again!
@@the_stixXx no problem haha I’m a sucky carpenter. I try to stay in the ground with work. Good luck!
So for gutter run off you should use a solid line?
Hey man, love your videos. I’m in NC and have a serious drainage problem on my property. I’ve got to add Gutters to the house and then run probably 200 foot of hard pipe to a ditch behind behind our house. I’m also considering adding a French drain grid in our backyard to try to take some pressure off our septic system when we get heavy rains. Is this something that you’ve had to deal with before?
thanks you for the helpful content. Curious what type of tool you use to stitch the fabric?
good job, but i was confused about what happened to the water at the very end of the pipe....does it bubble out then down the hill?
Yes it comes out of the top of the pop up emitter.
Great video. Thank you! But I didn't understand. If you recommend putting the pipe on the tranch's bottom without any gravel underneath, doesn't that mean that roots CAN grow into the pipe from the bottom (even through geofabric)? Because there is no air space under the pipe in this case. Thanks.
Doing it right is key. Do you have anyone in the Ft. Myers area you could recommend that would do this properly, like you showed? My neighbor and I have sitting water between our houses and could us the help.
Man, I lived in Florida for 10 years and seeing the sandy soil gives me PTSD haha Just another reason I'm glad I returned to the Midwest.
should i place the pipes as close as possible to the hardpan/clay ?or doesnt really matter
Nice work on the job and the video! Was there any consideration on having grade go up beyond the brick near the back of the house? How was that handled?
Very helpful video. I am going to try to replicate this in an area of my backyard that floods, I only have to trench about 20 ft. What is the proper way to ensure the trench grades downward as you are digging? Just a level, or some other specific method or trick? Thank you!
You can use a laser level, a string line or the tried and true method of running some water in the trench, skimming the bottom with your shovel and making sure the water is going in the direction you want it to go.
How did your manual trenching not sever the cable in the trench? They must have a really sensitive touch when digging. (3:04)
Im confused about that pop up thing at the end of the run. It looked like in the video the water got to that point and continued flowing somewhere? It didnt come up through the top, which to me makes sense , but where does the water go at that point? Does it actually rise up through that if theres enough flow? Having a hard time understanding that feature, though the rest makes perfect sense.
@@briandonovan6546 If you have good perking soil, water will leech into the ground for awhile until it becomes too saturated. Once this happens then the water will begin to flow out of the top of the pop up emitter as long as your system has slope.
how high of a chance is it that the corrugated pipe will collapse? How much weight can these french drains generally hold?
Add debris filter where downspout meets pvc and lose the pop up.
Agreed.. Great install ruined by a pop-up. Especially with that great fall off the back of property to use..
I have a 12 feet of gap between the structure wall and the compound wall (concrete) do i need 2 system of these lines discharging water or is 1 system of 2 pipes as shown here is good enough?
Quick question how deep do you normally go and does it make a difference from a hot to cold climate?
What keeps the fabric from clogging up with dirt? There are so many opinions on this it's confusing..
Good question, this will help you understand it more: www.mainlinematerials.com/blogs/m
@@StormWaterDrainageSolutions
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@@Rick-tb4so www.mainlinematerials.com/blogs/mainline-materials-blog/the-ultimate-guide-to-geotextiles
Some snakes can be forced to go in the direction you want by rotation on their axis but that takes some skill. If you hire a company like Rooter they have training to make the turn but its important to know that wyes are self-cleaning whereas T's are self-barricading.
Novice question here, what determines when and where you use a solid PVC vs perforated pipe?
Any reason why the gutter spouts cant be connected to french drain to run one pipe only?
Good question! You want to keep your French drain separate from your downspout system for two reasons: 1 Sending gutter water through your French drain will create a leech field effect making the ground even more saturated. 2 Any contaminates from your gutters such as leaves, roof single gravel and debris will enter your French drain and clog the perforated holes causing the French drain to not work over time. You want to keep that French drain in a contained system. Hope this helps💪
Whoa whoa back up. How tf did you stitch the fabric? Staples?
what brand filter fabric do u like best?
I have a very important question! Why did you only do part of the property with a French drain and not the whole run? I have a real issue with water sitting on part of my property and I started doing research…I think the French man stuff is awesome so I’m going to use that as well! Also not positive why you did pvc…I watched a lot of French man’s videos as well so I’m trying to figure out the best way to make this work! Would truly appreciate the feed back! I want to deff do a duel system just not sure if I need to do part french or the whole thing! Any feedback is extremely appreciated!
I think he did pvc because he could being in Florida; much cheaper than doing a french drain. Here in the north it is generally not advised to use hard pipe above the frost line
The reason for a french drain is to get water away from a level surface where it tends to puddle up, then in other areas where it goes downhill, or not level anymore, you don't need a french drain because the water can get away by itself, the reason for installing a french drain only part ways.
What is that staple gun you use for closing the fabric?
Hog ring staples
Did you have to hand-dig all those trenches in the tight spaces? If not, what equipment were you able to get in there?
@@sparekeiv Everything was hand hand dug💪
What did you use to stitch that fabric together
I can’t drain surface water with a Zoeller m-267. A 5 inch rain is hard to handle. Do you have any recommendations?