I don't care to do this AWD conversion work. However, I know what it takes to dilligently gather data, understand it, and present it to people -- a lot of work, time, patience, and persistence.
Not really, honda has plates you can use that lets you adapt any honda drivetrain to any honda transmission. So basically a crv awd tranny and a civ moter
K series swap would be lighter and make more power generally also way more aftermarket parts I did have 3.2 v6 six speed and absolutely loved it as well tho so I guess it comes down to what you want out of it
what an awesome and educational video!!! so well put together and answered all my questions. saved me tones of time and endless hours researching. well done, brilliant!!!
Now I know why so many tuners use a vc from a freelander. It really does give that 50 50 torque split. I do wonder if there's alternatives or maybe someone makes a vc that can make a 50 50 torque split.
Hi there, for a b series conversion, 2wd to 4wd I would recommend using a Honda orthia, very popular in Japan, exported to many countries including New Zealand, the 4wd 1996 2.0 using the b20 engine is all you need for a integra dc2 gearbox, driveshaft, 4x 100 hubs, all interchangeable, except shocks and springs which are taller in the orthia. Gear leaver bolts right up. I was thinking of doing a video myself, great job on yours.
This video is ridiculous. It's ridiculous how much information there is packed into one video!! I shared it with a friend with the caption. "It's like a Masters Thesis statement" Great work and thank you.
I went awd in my 93 eg hatchback and it's a different feeling. I was making 867hp from my K-Series then switched too a Honda element transmission the gears from my k20a fit right in the element got a wago drivetrain and got the dip and viscous coupler rebuild. Used hcp kit never going back too fwd 💯😂...
@@nicoesko1956 no you don't have to cut a tunnel for the driveshaft. The chassis has it already where you exhaust would run, but you will have too get a fuel cell, because the stock gas tank would be in the way of your rear differential. Hubcity performance sells a AWD kit also S1 ,and FCS racing sells 1. Then you get a rear differential from a 89 Honda civic wagon, and viscous coupler, you will need a honda element or a honda crv transmission. Etc etc but yeah it's a fun car to drive.
Honda did make the cl8 awd.. but only in Japan if im not mistaken bit ive heard the tl 3.7l v6 Sh-awd fits almost right into cu - cw Hondas, or the tsx in America which would be a really cool swap to do as im sure not many people have done especially in europe where i live. I only found out about that after watching One video here on TH-cam where a Guy swapped the whole drivetrain into His tsx wagon. That would be My dream build, 3.7V6 + Sh-awd + manual in My CW3 accord
Great video man! Only 1k views after a day hard to believe. Hopefully it picks up soon this should be over 100k by now. Liked and replaying it on my phone to give it some views.
Imagine doing all the footwork yourself for the swap, then seeing this video compiling everything you need to know after the fact🤣❤️ i dont even have a honda but i enjoyed this video none the less.
After sourcing all the parts and having to fabricate whatever extras you need to make an all Honda parts AWD system work I wonder what comes out cheaper. There are a few companies that make real 2 differential AWD transmissions for racing or serious tuners. A few of them even make streetable versions of their sequential transmissions like Quaife in the Uk and I know theres a company in Australia that specializes in Nissan GTR's that I believe began offering FWD transaxle based versions as well a few years ago. Cant recall the name. I think Quaife makes a sequential with helical gears for the street thats in the 10 to 15K range. I'd imagine the AWD version would be at least another 10K and you'd still require a capable rear diff and driveshaft. My point is that these kinds of projects add up quickly. There are always a million seemingly small things that add up to as much or more than all the major parts required. And when your done you still have a subpar AWD system with no ability to alter the torque split front to rear as far as I know. Really makes me wonder if it wouldnt be better to just call up one of these companies and tell them what you want. It would obviously still require some fabrication but I'd think less than piecing a system together from a mix of factory, custom and aftermarket parts. I really have no idea which way would be cheaper but one route is definitely technically superior. I owned an Sti for about 5 years and have been planning to get back into something similar. But I also have a 2014 CRV EX AWD with 20k miles on it I basically got for free that looks like it would like to be made into a rally car. Even if I dropped 60 or 80 grand into it i'd have something totally unique with a real performance oriented AWD system like those used in rally cars. 4 or 500hp is pretty easy with the 2.4K motor and the right not laggy turbo. And the purpose built tranny and AWD system would be bullet proof at those power levels and all the parts designed to work together. Suspension, Brakes, some lite forged alloys, beefy street tires and the thing would be a blast to drive. And run with GTR's or 911 Turbos easily. As long as they were close to stock lol. I've always liked oddball cars, I'll probably just end up trying to find another clean STi, obviously not new this time since they are out of production and I like the hatchback anyway. I just really have a thing for sequential or even DCT transmissions, the few non supercar DCT's that are actually performance oriented. I think the EVO MR has a bunch of mods available for its DCT now. People really ignored that version because of the tranny and the percieved inability to mod it for power. And I cant ignore that building your own AWD Honda in a non daily driver allows you to do it a bit at a time. Thats how I afforded every car I've heavily modded. Rowing gears is fun, I'm in my mid 40's and every daily driver I've owned since 16 has been a stick. I love Honda's, love the K series, the new civic type R motor is a beast. But half or more of the performance crowd will never take Honda seriously until they combine these engines and chassis with a real 3 diff AWD system. The advantage of being able to shift the torque split cant really be understated. Especially if it has a 2wd mode like the GTR's, why waste fuel turning all that extra gear when its not needed? If the system is designed for it. Honda should really listen to the entire performance crowd, not just their fanboys. I mean if enthusiasts are willing to go through all this, spend this much money just to have whats in reality an inferior AWD then clearly they'd buy every AWD Type R Honda could produce. Unfortunately I think they are all going to be focusing on electrics going forward. And thats not all bad, Honda's been into mechanical torque vectoring for a while, at least since the last Prelude. Thats much easier with electric motors, even without four of them. Some Teslas have a torque vectoring system that uses an open diff and the massive brakes achieving most of what you get from individual motors per wheel. And Now some of Honda/Acuras hybrids have their integrated Motor Assist system coupled with 2 small electric motors on the rear axle. But they are seriously stuck on their cars feeling like FWD's even when they have AWD. That makes sense for the masses but just frustrates enthusiasts. And electric torque and torque vectoring is awesome but I dont want a 6 thousand pound plus performance car. Mass is mass and theres no way to hide that much of it. Anyway, great Video! You guys put a lot into this and I know its far from a simple topic. And please take no offense to me calling these built AWD's inferior. They are superior to 99% of the modded cars out there. Just not to an AWD system designed for strength, performance and adjustability from the factory. Most people dont even know that there are major differences in types of AWD. Videos like these enlighten us and thats always a positive so thank you.
@@daniksautodetailing3085 I would have, but I purchased my 2019 Honda Accord 2.0T Touring back in 2019, and the TLX 2.0L Turbo was just released for 2021.
Civic FK3 shares the same engine as RE9 CR-V, which came with an AWD transmission. N22A2 with a map and an uprated clutch outperforms the Type R variant. Diesel torque.
The most informational video I’ve seen today, that answered most of my questions with additional bonus info on top! 🍒 Thank you for making such an amazing content 🙇🏻♀️
Thanks for this video. It’s so informative. Answered a lot of questions I had. Converting a 2010 rdx to awd manual is what brought me here. It’s interesting how the rdx has a k23a, nearly no other Honda has it, especially no crv, tsx or rsx which all come with either the 24 or 20 even tho the rdx is all 3 of these vehicles put together... I’ll be reviewing this video a few more times. Thanks for the research
This is a lot of info. I need to rewatch this, but a 9th gen civic si can be converted to AWD? Are there any special issues w/ 9th gen civics? It always seems that AWD conversions are on 90s hatches and integras.
That was fast. I need to take notes. I have a 1989 K24A2 CRX. I'm looking at buying an rt4wd civic wagon and gutting it for my CRX. I installed the 2006 Civic SI transmission for the LSD and would love to keep that. Is there a way? And what else is needed from the donor car?
I've slept on Hondas for years cause I'm from ct most people jus throw loud exhaust and ugly camber kits so they've jus been viewed as slow rusted calpped out garbage, but seen someone pushing 378 hp all motor in that light lil gutted coupe and they changed my mind vtec isn't jus hype
If youre using a freelander driveshaft on a b series setup (i have an EK chassis. But i THINK the wheel base is all the same for eg, ek and dc) and if you dont plan on running big power, you can use those aluminum adapters the bolt to the flanges and you DO NOT have to resize the driveahaft. Itll fit just right.
@@GTContent don't get me wrong. To do it the right and reliable way (especially for power more than 250) is to weld on proper flanges and have it balanced. But, in my case, to get the swap done, I used the adapters.
Very informative video man it covers basically everything. Another good bit of information that I can tell you is that the ek5 RTi 4wd factory civics, when you put a k24 into them and swap the 4wd bits out for wagon stuff, it bolts in with no modifications and you don't even need to cut the driveshaft for it to fit like you do when you awd convert say a eg or DC integra. It's basically a perfect length but you need a hub city performance driveshaft adaptor, only reason I know this is because I did it in my factory 4wd ek
I have a 1992 lancer with a 4g93 engine. There are some ways to AWD it, but mostly difficult in my country. One of the ways that I was thinking that would be easier is attach a transfer case from a Mitsubishi Airtrek to the stock gearbox, and put a rear differential from it as well. But I don't know what to look for in terms of gear ratio, for example. Does the final drive from the gearbox needs to be similar to the transfer case and rear differential? Thanks.
There's a custom H22 billet awd housing I believe. Can't recall who manufactures it. The best/cheaper option would be a b-series CRV awd transmission and H2B adapter.
There is only one person making them. Look up the few h22 crew. Aaron Lopez custom made his own and it uses the k series transfer case. He just ran 7.79 in his awd Ek.
7:58. Since this is a viscous coupled system, you can't express the torque split in fixed percentage terms (like shown in the video), it'll depend entirely on how fast you're going. The reason for this is because the viscous fluid binds due to rotational difference. That means if the front final gearing and rear final gearing have the same relationship to ground speed, there would be basically zero torque transfer unless SIGNIFICANT wheel slip were to occur, as there would be no rotational difference in the front and rear shaft speed, thus no viscous bind, thus no torque transfer. In order to provide any torque under non-slip conditions OEMs do what is called "pretensioning" the system. To accomplish this they change the relationship between the front final out and the rear final out. What we are looking for is for the front input shaft to be spinning faster than the rear output shaft for any given speed. To accomplish this the rear diff needs to have a lower output ratio than the front diff, assuming the rear is the off power set of wheels. (Say 4.45 rear and 4.5 front, just as a random example.) (The primary reason OEM's pretension the system like this is because they want to limit the amount of tire slip required before meaningful torque transfer occurs, this also improves handling under motion as well.) The consequence of this is that the amount of torque transferred to the off power wheels (the rear in this case) is not a fixed relationship. The faster you go, the larger the rotational difference between the front and back, and the more the viscous fluid binds, and thus more torque that is sent across the viscous couple, up to 100% or full lock. This means the bigger the difference between the front and rear final outs, the faster (sooner) the transfer. If it's a small difference, then maybe you have 5% torque at 15MPH and 50% toque at 100MPH (completely made up to illustrate, I don't even know if the relationship holds), and if you had a bigger difference, then you might have 15% torque at 15MPH and 100% torque at 75MPH. In that latter scenario, if you went above 75MPH the system would start to bind, and you would lose vehicle stability as tires fought each other for grip. Another consequence of viscous coupled AWD is that you never have AWD grip on launch, because there is zero rotation to begin, and thus you have zero rotational difference across the couple. So from 0MPH to 5MPH, you'll have basically zero torque transfer across the couple. Though the more aggressive you make the difference between front and back, the sooner the torque comes on, but the more you limit the system's top speed. Which means, the bigger the difference the harder you can launch, and the more you limit your top speed potential. That means you want to tune the system by first establishing what the vehicle's absolute top speed with be, then setting the difference to allow for that top speed, with a little additional play, but not much more than that. Basically you'll want about 97% torque transfer once you get to your top speed. Apart from that, the exact transfer figures will depend on a few factors. - What the rotational relationship is between the couple's input and output shafts at any given speed? - How fast the couple binds for a given amount of difference? - Which in large part will also depend on the properties of the specific viscous fluid that is used, as well as the ambient temperature of the environment the system is being used in. This of course means you can tune the system to some degree by fluid selection. - Another way you could tune the system is by staggering the tires you're running front to back. Having larger tires on the off power wheels (the rear in this case) will speed up the torque transfer rate. (Again, the bigger the difference front to back, the bigger the effect.) If we know the viscous couple's transfer rate, we could work out the entire systems rate by working back from the finals' output figures at any given speed. If we don't know that, then you'd need to use an AWD dyno capable of reading torque at both the front and back independently. Or you could use a regular two wheel dyno on the off power wheels and a set of rollers for the primary wheels, and then you could work out your torque at a given speed.
Why couldn't you just pin the rear clutch pack and use the same final drive for front and rear. I like the idea of crunching numbers for a desired top speed, and working as to not unbalance anything in the driveshaft. Just seems overly complicated, and I believe the speed at which the fluid engages the clutch pack is too slow to save some OEM design.
There are two different AWD rear engine mounts available. One mentions theirs is the only one that will prevent the block breakage. The other doesnt make any claims. Who makes the right one or does it even matter
i have a JDM 96 Honda Civic EK5 RTi AWD sedan factory.....i am doing a daily driven JDM K24a KSwap. approx. 300 whp N/A..can i reuse my stock rear axles with a 2003 CRV AWD Differential? and what upgrades must i do in the rear in terms of the diff mounts etc...great video ..
I’ve seen a guy on TH-cam do a awd k-swap Mini Cooper build and planning to do this later on. My plan is to get the 5 speed Honda CRV trans and the k24 to make it fit in a Mini Cooper
Hi nice work, on my car my I convert also to 4wd crv trans, but clutch is not holding, keeps on spinning on boost, is there any good clutch ready plug and play?
Ok so some cutting and welding is involved to install the rear diff/suspension. I thought that there was hardware/conversion kits that were all bolt on with no cutting/welding involved.
There are a few ways to do it. Welding would be preferred for the rear differential hanger, but you can bolt it in also. The rear diff mount will "bolt on", but you'll need to cut the oem rear subrame to allow access for the rear diff mount tabs. You can leave the cut portions of the subframe open, but it'll eventually rust and allow debris to get inside, so it's best to weld it up.
It is great guide. BUT how long do you expect that thing to work? It have clutch inside and you tell poeple that thing can survive "low 1000hp"? Maybe 2 times?
My plan is run D16 in eg hatch with b series awd setup. Hopefully d to b trans shouldn't make that much of a difference. Saving this video to plan lol.
If Honda came factory AWD swear they’d be king of the streets.
No need it give people more options
#KEEPGUNNIN
They did..
The only way I would buy a civic..
Awd civic had been here since the 80
I don't care to do this AWD conversion work.
However, I know what it takes to dilligently gather data, understand it, and present it to people -- a lot of work, time, patience, and persistence.
Not really, honda has plates you can use that lets you adapt any honda drivetrain to any honda transmission. So basically a crv awd tranny and a civ moter
Gather data? It's called order a kit lmfao
Thank you!!!
I've always said that if they made a civic in RWD, I would be in love. I just found a third-generation Integra, I can't wait to do this conversion.
Technically its called a S2000 :)
I’ve always wanted an s2k
Why 46 thumbs down!? This content is incredible! Thanks man!
Currently doing a EG K Swap awd, this is sick. Love how most of the parts are interchangeable between other vehicles
I would love to have a Honda Accord v6 coup stick shift with AWD .
The tl is basically that if u get the sh stick shift
I have a 2016, would love to know if anyone has tried it.
Sh awd is so good
K series swap would be lighter and make more power generally also way more aftermarket parts I did have 3.2 v6 six speed and absolutely loved it as well tho so I guess it comes down to what you want out of it
Preach bro! Me too!!
I thought we lost you. Thanks for getting the GT Content back.
You killed it with this video. 💪
Dang ! It's been a long time! Nice that you back to the basics with Honda that i love! And i almost caught a fire in my house insane.
Most useful video of all Honda related in this entire TH-cam. Huge thanks to you man. Best Honda video
you gave so many insights and pathways in this build. it makes me wanna AWD a civic and all i have is a miata. good job on this my man.
Amazing. Very reassuring that I wasn’t going insane finding all of this. I am very motivated to build a 6th gen accord that didn’t suck
Doing an AWD conversation on integra GSR with a 2.3 MZR swap this summer, shooting for 9 seconds!
i wanna see have u finished it?
@@resonxnce_roy2387 nah ended up putting in a b16. Still waiting on parts from skunk, aem, etc
@@NinjasDTA i have a mazdaspeed3 and i was gonna say why MZR it and why not k or b lol. MZR Has shit aftermarket support.
@@commentmancommentman1658 bc i had a spare mzr laying around and know someone who could have built it
Amazing amount of research. This should be bookmarked for future generations!
one of the most informational video on YT. just wow. i will be refering back to this video a lot during my awd conversion
what an awesome and educational video!!! so well put together and answered all my questions. saved me tones of time and endless hours researching. well done, brilliant!!!
I would try to do this conversion mod on a different Honda especially with an automatic transmission.
A Civic wagon!! in white😍 -I just don't understand.. I think Honda kept certain models from the USA as punishment😞
Now I know why so many tuners use a vc from a freelander. It really does give that 50 50 torque split. I do wonder if there's alternatives or maybe someone makes a vc that can make a 50 50 torque split.
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Hi there, for a b series conversion, 2wd to 4wd
I would recommend using a Honda orthia, very popular in Japan, exported to many countries including New Zealand, the 4wd 1996 2.0 using the b20 engine is all you need for a integra dc2 gearbox, driveshaft, 4x 100 hubs, all interchangeable, except shocks and springs which are taller in the orthia. Gear leaver bolts right up.
I was thinking of doing a video myself, great job on yours.
This video is ridiculous. It's ridiculous how much information there is packed into one video!! I shared it with a friend with the caption. "It's like a Masters Thesis statement" Great work and thank you.
You're welcome!
Dude I can't believe you did so much research into this I seriously appreciate this, you deffinitly deserve a shit ton more likes
I went awd in my 93 eg hatchback and it's a different feeling. I was making 867hp from my K-Series then switched too a Honda element transmission the gears from my k20a fit right in the element got a wago drivetrain and got the dip and viscous coupler rebuild. Used hcp kit never going back too fwd 💯😂...
Did you cut a tunnel for the drive shaft?? I'm planning on doing AWD conversion on my b18c civic ED
@@nicoesko1956 no you don't have to cut a tunnel for the driveshaft. The chassis has it already where you exhaust would run, but you will have too get a fuel cell, because the stock gas tank would be in the way of your rear differential. Hubcity performance sells a AWD kit also S1 ,and FCS racing sells 1. Then you get a rear differential from a 89 Honda civic wagon, and viscous coupler, you will need a honda element or a honda crv transmission. Etc etc but yeah it's a fun car to drive.
@@seankaine2411 can the chassis handle AWD? Wouldn't that twist the frame?
@@savagesock3598 watch Jimmy Oakes throw a Nissan KA24 into his EK. They reinforce the chassis underneath
That was really interesting, I will love to have a del sol awd with a k engine.
For the wagon rear differential Power Factory tuning makes the only billet differential and diff rebuild kit available
Honda did make the cl8 awd.. but only in Japan if im not mistaken bit ive heard the tl 3.7l v6 Sh-awd fits almost right into cu - cw Hondas, or the tsx in America which would be a really cool swap to do as im sure not many people have done especially in europe where i live. I only found out about that after watching One video here on TH-cam where a Guy swapped the whole drivetrain into His tsx wagon. That would be My dream build, 3.7V6 + Sh-awd + manual in My CW3 accord
This is the best video I’ve ever seen not gonna cap, so informative and entertaining
Great video man! Only 1k views after a day hard to believe. Hopefully it picks up soon this should be over 100k by now. Liked and replaying it on my phone to give it some views.
Thanks!
this is priceless information in a perfect format. thanks for making my life easier.
Imagine doing all the footwork yourself for the swap, then seeing this video compiling everything you need to know after the fact🤣❤️ i dont even have a honda but i enjoyed this video none the less.
OMG. Dude. What an in depth Honda budget love university
After sourcing all the parts and having to fabricate whatever extras you need to make an all Honda parts AWD system work I wonder what comes out cheaper. There are a few companies that make real 2 differential AWD transmissions for racing or serious tuners. A few of them even make streetable versions of their sequential transmissions like Quaife in the Uk and I know theres a company in Australia that specializes in Nissan GTR's that I believe began offering FWD transaxle based versions as well a few years ago. Cant recall the name. I think Quaife makes a sequential with helical gears for the street thats in the 10 to 15K range. I'd imagine the AWD version would be at least another 10K and you'd still require a capable rear diff and driveshaft. My point is that these kinds of projects add up quickly. There are always a million seemingly small things that add up to as much or more than all the major parts required. And when your done you still have a subpar AWD system with no ability to alter the torque split front to rear as far as I know. Really makes me wonder if it wouldnt be better to just call up one of these companies and tell them what you want. It would obviously still require some fabrication but I'd think less than piecing a system together from a mix of factory, custom and aftermarket parts. I really have no idea which way would be cheaper but one route is definitely technically superior. I owned an Sti for about 5 years and have been planning to get back into something similar. But I also have a 2014 CRV EX AWD with 20k miles on it I basically got for free that looks like it would like to be made into a rally car. Even if I dropped 60 or 80 grand into it i'd have something totally unique with a real performance oriented AWD system like those used in rally cars. 4 or 500hp is pretty easy with the 2.4K motor and the right not laggy turbo. And the purpose built tranny and AWD system would be bullet proof at those power levels and all the parts designed to work together. Suspension, Brakes, some lite forged alloys, beefy street tires and the thing would be a blast to drive. And run with GTR's or 911 Turbos easily. As long as they were close to stock lol. I've always liked oddball cars, I'll probably just end up trying to find another clean STi, obviously not new this time since they are out of production and I like the hatchback anyway. I just really have a thing for sequential or even DCT transmissions, the few non supercar DCT's that are actually performance oriented. I think the EVO MR has a bunch of mods available for its DCT now. People really ignored that version because of the tranny and the percieved inability to mod it for power. And I cant ignore that building your own AWD Honda in a non daily driver allows you to do it a bit at a time. Thats how I afforded every car I've heavily modded. Rowing gears is fun, I'm in my mid 40's and every daily driver I've owned since 16 has been a stick. I love Honda's, love the K series, the new civic type R motor is a beast. But half or more of the performance crowd will never take Honda seriously until they combine these engines and chassis with a real 3 diff AWD system. The advantage of being able to shift the torque split cant really be understated. Especially if it has a 2wd mode like the GTR's, why waste fuel turning all that extra gear when its not needed? If the system is designed for it. Honda should really listen to the entire performance crowd, not just their fanboys. I mean if enthusiasts are willing to go through all this, spend this much money just to have whats in reality an inferior AWD then clearly they'd buy every AWD Type R Honda could produce. Unfortunately I think they are all going to be focusing on electrics going forward. And thats not all bad, Honda's been into mechanical torque vectoring for a while, at least since the last Prelude. Thats much easier with electric motors, even without four of them. Some Teslas have a torque vectoring system that uses an open diff and the massive brakes achieving most of what you get from individual motors per wheel. And Now some of Honda/Acuras hybrids have their integrated Motor Assist system coupled with 2 small electric motors on the rear axle. But they are seriously stuck on their cars feeling like FWD's even when they have AWD. That makes sense for the masses but just frustrates enthusiasts. And electric torque and torque vectoring is awesome but I dont want a 6 thousand pound plus performance car. Mass is mass and theres no way to hide that much of it. Anyway, great Video! You guys put a lot into this and I know its far from a simple topic. And please take no offense to me calling these built AWD's inferior. They are superior to 99% of the modded cars out there. Just not to an AWD system designed for strength, performance and adjustability from the factory. Most people dont even know that there are major differences in types of AWD. Videos like these enlighten us and thats always a positive so thank you.
I would like to see someone convert the 10th Gen Honda Accord 2.0T into an AWD. That would be a killer grocery getter. 🤪
Honda... power your dreams
Get a TLX
@@daniksautodetailing3085 I would have, but I purchased my 2019 Honda Accord 2.0T Touring back in 2019, and the TLX 2.0L Turbo was just released for 2021.
I would love to see 9th Gen Accord AWD swap.
TLX or Stinger instead
Civic FK3 shares the same engine as RE9 CR-V, which came with an AWD transmission. N22A2 with a map and an uprated clutch outperforms the Type R variant. Diesel torque.
This video is just amazing. So informative. I am building a k20c1 FD2 Honda Civic with a AWD system and this is a lot of information. My G! 👑
The most informational video I’ve seen today, that answered most of my questions with additional bonus info on top! 🍒 Thank you for making such an amazing content 🙇🏻♀️
I'm looking into converting my CRX to AWD, this video gave me a ton of info that I needed. Thank you!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this video. It’s so informative. Answered a lot of questions I had. Converting a 2010 rdx to awd manual is what brought me here. It’s interesting how the rdx has a k23a, nearly no other Honda has it, especially no crv, tsx or rsx which all come with either the 24 or 20 even tho the rdx is all 3 of these vehicles put together... I’ll be reviewing this video a few more times. Thanks for the research
the rdx motor on a 2k lb civic would be insane, i had an rdx, the torque was powerful af
This is a lot of info. I need to rewatch this, but a 9th gen civic si can be converted to AWD? Are there any special issues w/ 9th gen civics? It always seems that AWD conversions are on 90s hatches and integras.
Yes, it's been done.
@@GTContent Thx for putting out this video. I really appreciate it.
You are asking people to like your video before they even get to watch it. Nice.
Track you playing in the backround at the beginning just makes you want to go out and buy the conversion lol. Good job on the video
You're the man for uploading this! So much valuable infor with no BS
Research is phenomenal! Keep up the great work!
I feel like I remember reading in a magazine 15+ years ago that there was a Type R or SICivic internationally around 98 or 99 that was factory AWD.
No TypeR's or Si's, but there is an awd civic & integra from the factory.
God bless your sole for making this
Thank you for watching.
I you sure about the rear cv axels. I just ordered the passenger/ rear right element cv axels and the look like they are the longer side.
Wow!! This video is gold! Excellent job!
That was fast. I need to take notes. I have a 1989 K24A2 CRX. I'm looking at buying an rt4wd civic wagon and gutting it for my CRX. I installed the 2006 Civic SI transmission for the LSD and would love to keep that. Is there a way? And what else is needed from the donor car?
Damn thats some knowledge you dropped there man good job
I've slept on Hondas for years cause I'm from ct most people jus throw loud exhaust and ugly camber kits so they've jus been viewed as slow rusted calpped out garbage, but seen someone pushing 378 hp all motor in that light lil gutted coupe and they changed my mind vtec isn't jus hype
Arguably the best car vid I've seen.
If youre using a freelander driveshaft on a b series setup (i have an EK chassis. But i THINK the wheel base is all the same for eg, ek and dc) and if you dont plan on running big power, you can use those aluminum adapters the bolt to the flanges and you DO NOT have to resize the driveahaft. Itll fit just right.
Good to know. Thanks!
@@GTContent don't get me wrong. To do it the right and reliable way (especially for power more than 250) is to weld on proper flanges and have it balanced. But, in my case, to get the swap done, I used the adapters.
Very informative video man it covers basically everything. Another good bit of information that I can tell you is that the ek5 RTi 4wd factory civics, when you put a k24 into them and swap the 4wd bits out for wagon stuff, it bolts in with no modifications and you don't even need to cut the driveshaft for it to fit like you do when you awd convert say a eg or DC integra. It's basically a perfect length but you need a hub city performance driveshaft adaptor, only reason I know this is because I did it in my factory 4wd ek
Great to know. Thanks!
I have a 1992 lancer with a 4g93 engine. There are some ways to AWD it, but mostly difficult in my country. One of the ways that I was thinking that would be easier is attach a transfer case from a Mitsubishi Airtrek to the stock gearbox, and put a rear differential from it as well. But I don't know what to look for in terms of gear ratio, for example. Does the final drive from the gearbox needs to be similar to the transfer case and rear differential? Thanks.
is there a transmission option if I'm running an H22a? will any of the listed transmissions work?
There's a custom H22 billet awd housing I believe. Can't recall who manufactures it. The best/cheaper option would be a b-series CRV awd transmission and H2B adapter.
There is only one person making them. Look up the few h22 crew. Aaron Lopez custom made his own and it uses the k series transfer case. He just ran 7.79 in his awd Ek.
THANKS ! Your video was very informative & explanatory.
For crv it’s the driver side axle that is the short axle
Sooo can the k series be automatic awd
Yes
Holy moly the ammount of research done is incredible. Great content ! Makes me wanna buy a civic and convert it AWD haha
7:58. Since this is a viscous coupled system, you can't express the torque split in fixed percentage terms (like shown in the video), it'll depend entirely on how fast you're going. The reason for this is because the viscous fluid binds due to rotational difference. That means if the front final gearing and rear final gearing have the same relationship to ground speed, there would be basically zero torque transfer unless SIGNIFICANT wheel slip were to occur, as there would be no rotational difference in the front and rear shaft speed, thus no viscous bind, thus no torque transfer.
In order to provide any torque under non-slip conditions OEMs do what is called "pretensioning" the system. To accomplish this they change the relationship between the front final out and the rear final out. What we are looking for is for the front input shaft to be spinning faster than the rear output shaft for any given speed. To accomplish this the rear diff needs to have a lower output ratio than the front diff, assuming the rear is the off power set of wheels. (Say 4.45 rear and 4.5 front, just as a random example.)
(The primary reason OEM's pretension the system like this is because they want to limit the amount of tire slip required before meaningful torque transfer occurs, this also improves handling under motion as well.)
The consequence of this is that the amount of torque transferred to the off power wheels (the rear in this case) is not a fixed relationship. The faster you go, the larger the rotational difference between the front and back, and the more the viscous fluid binds, and thus more torque that is sent across the viscous couple, up to 100% or full lock. This means the bigger the difference between the front and rear final outs, the faster (sooner) the transfer. If it's a small difference, then maybe you have 5% torque at 15MPH and 50% toque at 100MPH (completely made up to illustrate, I don't even know if the relationship holds), and if you had a bigger difference, then you might have 15% torque at 15MPH and 100% torque at 75MPH. In that latter scenario, if you went above 75MPH the system would start to bind, and you would lose vehicle stability as tires fought each other for grip.
Another consequence of viscous coupled AWD is that you never have AWD grip on launch, because there is zero rotation to begin, and thus you have zero rotational difference across the couple. So from 0MPH to 5MPH, you'll have basically zero torque transfer across the couple. Though the more aggressive you make the difference between front and back, the sooner the torque comes on, but the more you limit the system's top speed. Which means, the bigger the difference the harder you can launch, and the more you limit your top speed potential. That means you want to tune the system by first establishing what the vehicle's absolute top speed with be, then setting the difference to allow for that top speed, with a little additional play, but not much more than that. Basically you'll want about 97% torque transfer once you get to your top speed.
Apart from that, the exact transfer figures will depend on a few factors.
- What the rotational relationship is between the couple's input and output shafts at any given speed?
- How fast the couple binds for a given amount of difference?
- Which in large part will also depend on the properties of the specific viscous fluid that is used, as well as the ambient temperature of the environment the system is being used in. This of course means you can tune the system to some degree by fluid selection.
- Another way you could tune the system is by staggering the tires you're running front to back. Having larger tires on the off power wheels (the rear in this case) will speed up the torque transfer rate. (Again, the bigger the difference front to back, the bigger the effect.)
If we know the viscous couple's transfer rate, we could work out the entire systems rate by working back from the finals' output figures at any given speed.
If we don't know that, then you'd need to use an AWD dyno capable of reading torque at both the front and back independently. Or you could use a regular two wheel dyno on the off power wheels and a set of rollers for the primary wheels, and then you could work out your torque at a given speed.
Why couldn't you just pin the rear clutch pack and use the same final drive for front and rear. I like the idea of crunching numbers for a desired top speed, and working as to not unbalance anything in the driveshaft. Just seems overly complicated, and I believe the speed at which the fluid engages the clutch pack is too slow to save some OEM design.
Glad to see ya back. Thanks for the video man.
Thank you for gathering this information.
THANK YOUUUUUUUUUUUUU for this video. forums get confusing this was str8 to the point
There are two different AWD rear engine mounts available. One mentions theirs is the only one that will prevent the block breakage. The other doesnt make any claims. Who makes the right one or does it even matter
the best, clear and precise explanation I have seen, excellent video, for anyone who wants to do the swap, great job !!
i have a JDM 96 Honda Civic EK5 RTi AWD sedan factory.....i am doing a daily driven JDM K24a KSwap. approx. 300 whp N/A..can i reuse my stock rear axles with a 2003 CRV AWD Differential? and what upgrades must i do in the rear in terms of the diff mounts etc...great video ..
Excellent video - kudos on a ton of work, thank you.
What a video! Great summary
I think it would be cool if you did a video on everything you need to do a k swap in an older Honda...btw awesome video !
Pretty sure this video helped me a lot as to I was gonna buy a lot of things I didn’t need thanks much appreciate
Dude what music is this im inlove with it pure JDM type❤🎌 great video by the way man💯
Great work man. Thank you for putting that information together. Have a great day!
I’ve seen a guy on TH-cam do a awd k-swap Mini Cooper build and planning to do this later on. My plan is to get the 5 speed Honda CRV trans and the k24 to make it fit in a Mini Cooper
Hi nice work, on my car my I convert also to 4wd crv trans, but clutch is not holding, keeps on spinning on boost, is there any good clutch ready plug and play?
Great video, ill probably be back to watch again
Thank you for watching!
man if only you were able to figure this out for the J series motors. would love to AWD convert my Acura TL
Ok so some cutting and welding is involved to install the rear diff/suspension. I thought that there was hardware/conversion kits that were all bolt on with no cutting/welding involved.
There are a few ways to do it. Welding would be preferred for the rear differential hanger, but you can bolt it in also.
The rear diff mount will "bolt on", but you'll need to cut the oem rear subrame to allow access for the rear diff mount tabs. You can leave the cut portions of the subframe open, but it'll eventually rust and allow debris to get inside, so it's best to weld it up.
i can build my car with this video! great job man! thank you
Nice video bro thanks for taking the time for this information 💪🏾
I've been looking for more information about awd CR-V 404 swap on my 91 eg thanks 👍
Sucks that all the conversion kits are manual only, after my surgery there’s no way I can drive manual anymore so I guess my integra is staying fwd.
Thanks for the video now i feel like i just got a mayor in honda engineering😅😅👍👍👍
Thanks for all the effort on this video! :)
watching this in interest of doing so to a 1979 Plymouh TC3
Excellent video, saved for later & subscribed.
I was curious to know about all wheel drive thank you for researching options.
It is great guide. BUT how long do you expect that thing to work? It have clutch inside and you tell poeple that thing can survive "low 1000hp"? Maybe 2 times?
This is incredible, thank you!
What a great write up man awesome 👏
My plan is run D16 in eg hatch with b series awd setup. Hopefully d to b trans shouldn't make that much of a difference. Saving this video to plan lol.
Not possible
Man the Honda boys have it easy. They don't even make a short shifter for my car.
S1 built makes rear trailing arms and complete kits.
I love your vids man so keep em coming!
Great video man! I’m going awd on my rsx on my channel and had gathered this info already so I know how hard it is to dig through all this information
K series info starts at 5:32
10:53 why it will be binding if you lock the rear diff ?
Front and rear diff have slightly different ratios.
Awesome contents! Love it! Make more videos please! Thank you so much for sharing!
Just by watching this i can see myself spend thousands of thousands of dollars 💸
Where are these “electronics” in the Element and CRV rear diff you speak of?
Very informative & complete!
Glad it was helpful!