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How I make connections for power cords when I install fishfinders.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ส.ค. 2024
- In the past, I have had crimped connectors fail at the worst times on the water so I developed a way that it doesn't happen again. In this video I'm going to show you how I make the connections on my power cords. The example used is a Lowrance power cord for HDS and Elite units, but the technique applies to all models. I am redoing a few of my power cords to get them ready for the new Lowrance products. The power cord will be connected to a fuse block.
This is a long detailed video where I not only show you the steps in making up the connections but also a bit of why it is done that way. Hopefully you will learn from it and make your boating electronics experience better.
Remember: Do it right, do it once.
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Thanks great video and everything is explained very well. Thanks
You're welcome. And thank you for watching the video and subscribing as well. I really appreciate it.
I do try to explain things in the videos, that does make them a little longer but I believe the more information that you have then you'll make better decisions and do the job correctly.
Techniques for any type of wiring jobs. Do it right the first time and you won’t have to do it again and again. Good video.
Thanks. Details make for good installations.
I always do mine the exact same way, with the exact same tools. Although, I did have a connection fail for the first time on my trolling motor plug. I also wore out my Klein strippers and have since been using other styles. Haven't made up my mind on those yet.
I'm trying to find a different method for my trolly plug.
I haven't worn out my Klien strippers yet but at least the cutter is replicable. I don't use them for the larger size wires (8 and larger). I've tried others that say that they'll do 8 AWG but no luck yet.
Most of the installs that I do on trolling motors do not use the plug. They are connected to the boat TM wires directly using the same block that Ranger uses. I believe that it came from Trolling Motor Supply. I will be using a plug on the next installation. Hopefully I'll be able to get decent footage and put it on the install video.
@@garrywoodruff960 I'm looking for something that will easily strip 8 gauge wire. Let me know if you find a decent tool. Thanks.
I'll let you know. I did see one at Harbor Freight. I might get one just to try it.
Another good video; it's the little things that make for a neat installation. I'm guessing we won't see much electrical tape in your videos :) A quick question, please...On my install, if I want to control my Active Target module with an 'on/off' switch at the bow, is it just a matter of running power from the fuse block via the switch, to the yellow wire of the module?
Thanks and yes, the only time that you will see electrical tape being used is when I am pulling wires. As for the switch, yes that is pretty much what you do. I always use a 1 AMP fuse for the yellow wire switch. This works as long as the fuse block power is coming from the same power source (battery) as for the AT module. In other words they need to share common grounds.
If connecting to switch panel and bus bar do u connect red and yellow wire both to positive
And if so can u run both to the same fuse
Hi, thanks for watching the video. For a power cord for a unit like a HDS Live or Elite FS, you do not need to connect the Yellow wire. For those units and similar, that wire (yellow) is an output signal that is used to wake up another device such as an Active Target or S3100 module. So, there is no need to connect the yellow wire if you are not connecting it to a module. So, the RED goes to a fused power wire usually coming from a bus bar or using the existing for wiring if it is of sufficient size. The YELLOW wire is not connected.
For modules, the RED and YELLOW can be tied to the same switch with fused power to coming it.
Let me know if this makes sense to you.
And thanks for watching the video(s).