Installed this today on a 1958, happy with the outcome. Video helps tremendously, took a few hours, because I didn’t want to break anything, definitely if I had to do this again, it won’t take more than an hour. Definitely a cheaper way to improve the sound quality in the 1958 trim.
Did that one have a sub in the tailgate that wasn't plugged in? We just had one come through the shop and found that but plugging it in found it didn't work. Wires were ran to an "amp" under the driver seat but no output. The amp powered all the speakers but the passenger rear door. Weirdest thing I've seen in a while.
@@BeatSonicUS It's something I've never seen in 30 years in the industry. My friend let me look into TIS and the "amp" under the driver seat was for the noise canceling system. We looked at a land cruiser-land cruiser model and the 1958 on the lot (both non JBL) and the 1958 was the same with a sub installed but not plugged in in the tailgate. Wondering if it's just a matter of having the dealer turn it on or maybe an opportunity for you to add the functionality with you system. We'd be very interested in your plug and play system if that tailgate sub was implemented by just plugging it in.
Regarding the 1958 factory subwoofer: If there is an amp under the seat, could we could pull line level signal from it, add an amp under there, and feed that factory sub?
Hey Jordan, you'll need our BH10 Speaker Harness to allow for a subwoofer linked here. www.beatsonicusa.com/bh10.html This will prevent splicing the factory wiring
It is a class AB amplifier. The amplifier does not generate too much heat, it also has a failsafe incase it does overheat, the amplifier will shut off.
I sent an email about set-up. For the Landcruiser non-JBL am I correct in assuming that like all other Toyotas the doors are 6x9 front, 6.5 rear and 3.5" dash?
@@BeatSonicUS if one could order the 12.3 oem larger screen, what would it take to connect it? Seems like wire harness is completely different. There are screens already showing up on eBay (granted right rudder), but surely additional equipment would be necessary.
$300 is a lot considering you can get much higher power hide-away amps from big names for much, much cheaper. Also don't understand why you had to disassemble everything when you can just take that top panel and front panel off.
@@someguy5035 it’s not always just about power. We also have a long history of producing high quality amplifiers including tube amplifiers for over 30 years. The front panel is covered by other trim pieces that needs to be removed before the front panel is removed
@@BeatSonicUS Alpine, Clarion, Kenwood, JBL, Sony, just to name a few are much less, half price even. The difference is, they don't have the premade harness. But is that harness really worth an extra $150? I am also curious how the amp doesn't blow a fuse or cause other issues. 45Wx4 = 180W. 180W at 14.4V is and additional 12.5 amps draw? How does that not cause issues when you're using the same power line as the stereo?
@@someguy5035 different tech, different quality amplifiers, and different class amplifiers. It’s also not just the added harness. We figured a way to not cause any issues using the power to the headunit. That is what also makes our amplifier special. So far, we have over 10k satisfied customers and counting.
@@someguy5035 "Is that really worth $150?". As an installer, my cost would be more to splice into the factory harness and solder it all back up. AND you have to trust me that I know what I am doing - A LOT of people dont but tell you they will. So, you tell me, is it worth the additional $150 to spend on your $65-$80k build in order to get the same quality, probably better, than you would have paid $4500 for with the Premium Package? For me, that would be a solid yes.
Installed this today on a 1958, happy with the outcome. Video helps tremendously, took a few hours, because I didn’t want to break anything, definitely if I had to do this again, it won’t take more than an hour. Definitely a cheaper way to improve the sound quality in the 1958 trim.
Thank you for your support!
Easy install and it’s really incredible how much more oomph it squeezes out of the stock speakers.
Thank you for your feedback!
I’ve got a jbl equipped LC coming next week. I have interest
Local to OC in Cali? If you are and interested please email us at info@beatsonicusa.com
I'll have to grab one of these once I get my LC. Assuming the process is similar for the JBL LC?
Yes the installation is the same. The only difference is when you remove the screen as you’ll have the larger screen
Did that one have a sub in the tailgate that wasn't plugged in? We just had one come through the shop and found that but plugging it in found it didn't work. Wires were ran to an "amp" under the driver seat but no output. The amp powered all the speakers but the passenger rear door. Weirdest thing I've seen in a while.
That’s very interesting. Only if we can get that sub to work! we will check it next time!
@@BeatSonicUS It's something I've never seen in 30 years in the industry. My friend let me look into TIS and the "amp" under the driver seat was for the noise canceling system. We looked at a land cruiser-land cruiser model and the 1958 on the lot (both non JBL) and the 1958 was the same with a sub installed but not plugged in in the tailgate. Wondering if it's just a matter of having the dealer turn it on or maybe an opportunity for you to add the functionality with you system. We'd be very interested in your plug and play system if that tailgate sub was implemented by just plugging it in.
@@HillWillE we will look into this
iPhone go to “music” turn off “sound check” it’s literally that simple. Makes a huge difference wirh how music sounds!
Thanks for the suggestion!
Regarding the 1958 factory subwoofer: If there is an amp under the seat, could we could pull line level signal from it, add an amp under there, and feed that factory sub?
It depends. It will need to have the right signals
Can those rca’s be used to feed an audio signal to an aftermarket small powered subwoofer?
Hey Jordan, you'll need our BH10 Speaker Harness to allow for a subwoofer linked here. www.beatsonicusa.com/bh10.html This will prevent splicing the factory wiring
Is this a class D amplifier? If not, how is the limited airflow affecting the heat from the amp?
It is a class AB amplifier. The amplifier does not generate too much heat, it also has a failsafe incase it does overheat, the amplifier will shut off.
I sent an email about set-up. For the Landcruiser non-JBL am I correct in assuming that like all other Toyotas the doors are 6x9 front, 6.5 rear and 3.5" dash?
Not too sure, can't find anything online. You may have to refer to your owner's manual.
Can you upgrade that 8 inch screen to the 12 inch screen too?
Not sure, we only upgraded the audio.
It worth all that disassembling
Definitely
I see RCA connection on the amp. Does this mean I can add and bypass this amp?
It’s only for audio inputs
can that screen be upgraded?
At the moment, we are not aware of any screen upgrades for this model
Upgraded to what?
@@ryanb8736 larger screen
@@BeatSonicUS if one could order the 12.3 oem larger screen, what would it take to connect it? Seems like wire harness is completely different. There are screens already showing up on eBay (granted right rudder), but surely additional equipment would be necessary.
@@icoperez not certain as we haven’t tried it unfortunately
$300 is a lot considering you can get much higher power hide-away amps from big names for much, much cheaper.
Also don't understand why you had to disassemble everything when you can just take that top panel and front panel off.
@@someguy5035 it’s not always just about power. We also have a long history of producing high quality amplifiers including tube amplifiers for over 30 years. The front panel is covered by other trim pieces that needs to be removed before the front panel is removed
@@BeatSonicUS Alpine, Clarion, Kenwood, JBL, Sony, just to name a few are much less, half price even. The difference is, they don't have the premade harness. But is that harness really worth an extra $150?
I am also curious how the amp doesn't blow a fuse or cause other issues. 45Wx4 = 180W. 180W at 14.4V is and additional 12.5 amps draw? How does that not cause issues when you're using the same power line as the stereo?
@@someguy5035 different tech, different quality amplifiers, and different class amplifiers. It’s also not just the added harness. We figured a way to not cause any issues using the power to the headunit. That is what also makes our amplifier special. So far, we have over 10k satisfied customers and counting.
@@someguy5035 "Is that really worth $150?". As an installer, my cost would be more to splice into the factory harness and solder it all back up. AND you have to trust me that I know what I am doing - A LOT of people dont but tell you they will. So, you tell me, is it worth the additional $150 to spend on your $65-$80k build in order to get the same quality, probably better, than you would have paid $4500 for with the Premium Package? For me, that would be a solid yes.
@@SNOT-Offroadexactly
How much does that cost?
$299. Product link in description
@@BeatSonicUS thanks
@@asifayyub4308 my pleasure!
Let me know if you have a screen replacement this thing is small. Only regret is have in my lc 1958
@@asifayyub4308 unfortunately we don’t 😭
Eric, ok you have the amp for various cars/trucks but no GX, whats up with that? 😂😂😂
Working on it! Lol
Reminds me of CHEVROLET 🤣
Looks cool though!
JBL isn’t much of an upgrade.
That's where we come in
Lmao that is not a first edition.
We found that out after as well! Lol